Another great installment in the carburetor series. I can't tell you how many times I have been into carburetors and had to remove broken pieces, damaged jets, stuck choke levers/butterfly, worn throttle shaft journals, etc. A set of aircraft drill bits is also very hand to have to get into deep passages that are deep inside the carburetor body. Great video, Senior!
Sr. needs to have his own channel. We love how he explains the details on how to get things done Right! thanks Squatch for all the lessons. i wish i had an old d2 to restore. some day.
Couldn't have come at a better time. Have a John Deere 720 Diesel going in the shop late this summer for pumps and injectors, pony carburetor rebuild, and possibly a paint refresh.
Sometimes, modern ways work on the old carb bodies. After getting as much surface dirt and oil off as I can, I like to use a heated ultrasonic cleaner filled up with Evap-Rust. Surprisingly, most of those tight or stuck fittings come right out after a good vibra-soak. Good to see Senior back hands on with your project.
I did my dads John Deere B I stripped the carb all down removing everything so all that was left was the cast body then I put it in a self cleaning oven set it for 3 hours baked all the junk free blew it out with air assemble the carb and it ran perfectly that's the best way I have found to clean cast iron carbs or other cast parts.
I have boiled mine in lemon juice. About 1/2 hr process for most. It is a mild acid, so more is not necessarily better depending on the metal. A process learned from a person who restored old motor cycles on the net. But, I'll keep that oven trick in mind too.
@@squatch253 those ultrasonic tanks work wonders on small passages. For something rusty it's probably best to take it apart but for newer carbs I've had lots of luck just taking the float valve out and tossing it in the tank with a little dish soap for a few hrs.
I was going to say this is the precision side of tractor repairs, but of course that is wrong! I wonder what the right word is? Fiddly? Careful? I think I've found it, patient! Right up your street father Squatch!
I found on my 54 No.12, 8T14777 pony the float bowl bolts didn't have the common (flathead) slots in them. I had some in my stash and swapped them out. Made it so much easier to R&R the Carb in the Motor Grader. Senior .... What dose this tool look like that you made to remove the nut on the bowl side of the Carb?
As far as i know figured my d8 is a 1957 as for what yrs they changed from the down draft, cause the early model d8s used a down draft, to the up draft i dont know that then there was turbo charged so i would have to say my d8 isnt an early model or a late model
Much better to rope start. The 6 volt electric starters always ran slow. My D4 starts with two pulls of the rope. Very simple full choke, pull, set choke back, engage pony motor.
There is a long brass discharge bar across the throttle body used for main fuel discharge. The long idle jet goes through this. I've had where this was damaged with corrosion. Any ideas on replacing this? I'm sure a brass tube can be cut to length and drilled for discharge. What size and how many holes?
As far as the long needle that is getting very hard to get could another option be to get a medical syringe the same diameter take the old thumbscrew and drill a hole where the needle was and solder The syringe needle in the hall? I do not know if it would work with solder
I also know that model railroader supplies have brass tubes that size that they use for piping etc. I wonder if you could use one of those with the same method so it would be brass
Then you have to add an electrical system, all kinds of sensors, battery, and charging system. After that you have to program it and hope it works. No thanks!!!!!!! I still wish I could get my 70 Dodge back. When it broke down I didn't need a computer to find out what was wrong with it. I could check a few things and know where to start and I never had to spend hours checking one sensor after another and following hundreds of wires to fix a minor problem that was causing the ECM to limit the performance of the car.
Another great installment in the carburetor series. I can't tell you how many times I have been into carburetors and had to remove broken pieces, damaged jets, stuck choke levers/butterfly, worn throttle shaft journals, etc. A set of aircraft drill bits is also very hand to have to get into deep passages that are deep inside the carburetor body. Great video, Senior!
Senior is getting so much better in his presentation. I wish I had watched this in my motorcycle days. I had no idea what I was doing.
Enjoying the carb series with senior. These carbs are very different from the many different kinds I've worked on over the years. Very interesting.
Great to see Sr. Back! Carburetors are a pain in the butt. But they’re still better than messing with EFI 🤣
I have rehabbed several junk yard pot metal carbs, but this crusty iron carb is a whole new level of hell for me. Great info!
Again, much appreciated to see these Senior! Well done with these.
Good to see Senior back in action again.
Sr. needs to have his own channel. We love how he explains the details on how to get things done Right! thanks Squatch for all the lessons. i wish i had an old d2 to restore. some day.
Tedious work but necessary if you want it to work correctly. Thanks Sr.!!!
Great job by Senior! I can see where Squatch gets his knowledge!🙏👌😎👍 man I gotta catch up with your videos!
Like father like son the attention to detail is superb showin how it should be done ✅👌
Great to be hearing from Sr. again. Looks like the pony motor will end up with a good carb.
Seniors been around the block a time or two. Been there, done that. Thanks for the video.
Thanks Senior, excellent video showing us your skills. Keep them coming !!
Wow! That little carb has a lot of parts and pieces.
Cool to see the work you do on those tiny zenith carburetors thanks Senior
Couldn't have come at a better time. Have a John Deere 720 Diesel going in the shop late this summer for pumps and injectors, pony carburetor rebuild, and possibly a paint refresh.
Excellent video it's nice that you got the broken jet out and all of the dust and dirt
Sometimes, modern ways work on the old carb bodies. After getting as much surface dirt and oil off as I can, I like to use a heated ultrasonic cleaner filled up with Evap-Rust. Surprisingly, most of those tight or stuck fittings come right out after a good vibra-soak. Good to see Senior back hands on with your project.
..... and very good educational description of how to go about it.
Like a Pony Motor Carburetor Senior Ninja!
That Berryman cleaning solution is some good stuff. I've been using it for years now. Works great on carburetors.
There's not a doubt in my mind that will be a perfect working carburetor! Great to see you back.
This is an educational experience. I love it.
I did my dads John Deere B I stripped the carb all down removing everything so all that was left was the cast body then I put it in a self cleaning oven set it for 3 hours baked all the junk free blew it out with air assemble the carb and it ran perfectly that's the best way I have found to clean cast iron carbs or other cast parts.
I have boiled mine in lemon juice. About 1/2 hr process for most. It is a mild acid, so more is not necessarily better depending on the metal. A process learned from a person who restored old motor cycles on the net. But, I'll keep that oven trick in mind too.
My wife would kill me.
Outstanding! Squatch Sr.
Excellent segment!
Any reason why you don't use an ultrasonic cleaner for the carb bits and pieces?
@@squatch253 those ultrasonic tanks work wonders on small passages. For something rusty it's probably best to take it apart but for newer carbs I've had lots of luck just taking the float valve out and tossing it in the tank with a little dish soap for a few hrs.
I was going to say this is the precision side of tractor repairs, but of course that is wrong! I wonder what the right word is? Fiddly? Careful? I think I've found it, patient! Right up your street father Squatch!
Nice work Senior!
Now I understand where Jr. got his skills!
the best recommendations are the voice of experience..
Thanks senior for another great video
Nicely done sir!
Senior with the luck you are having with that thing I think I would go buy a lottery ticket...
Thank you for the video.
Great work, thanks for sharing 👍
Working on carburetors can be a real pain in the butt, especially if you can't get a carb kit. But nice job so far, Sr......
I found on my 54 No.12, 8T14777 pony the float bowl bolts didn't have the common (flathead) slots in them. I had some in my stash and swapped them out. Made it so much easier to R&R the Carb in the Motor Grader.
Senior .... What dose this tool look like that you made to remove the nut on the bowl side of the Carb?
Thank you...
You know you’re in tough when your carb rebuild tools include the blue tip wrench....
@@squatch253 dozers would be easy to fix if you could keep them away from dirt....
I have seen some old timers us some authentic penetrating oil, then tap the screwdriver while turning...
Good Video
very patient...
As unique as them down draft carbs are and are really good ones how ever im glad my d8 pony has an up draft zenith
As far as i know figured my d8 is a 1957 as for what yrs they changed from the down draft, cause the early model d8s used a down draft, to the up draft i dont know that then there was turbo charged so i would have to say my d8 isnt an early model or a late model
A true professional. I would have grabbed the hot screw.
good job man
Note: The float pin only come out one direction.
Those carburetors seem to be pretty complex for a two cylinder engine. Sr will get it fixed though.
You weren't kidding that's an old video, the super M is still in pieces!
A lot of work but it will definitely be worth it 😊👍🌎🌞
You guys ever try using an ultrasonic cleaner? Works great on carbs. Spend a little money to get one with heat.
I believe senior has seen that done before.
Sr. You make a great video you should start narrating for Jr. Lol ! ! !
Senior 👍✅
My pony motors are electric start but hard to start. I can see I have to drill out those plugs to clean passages. I want to be able to rope start
Much better to rope start. The 6 volt electric starters always ran slow. My D4 starts with two pulls of the rope. Very simple full choke, pull, set choke back, engage pony motor.
I am wondering where u buy your carb kits
There is a long brass discharge bar across the throttle body used for main fuel discharge. The long idle jet goes through this. I've had where this was damaged with corrosion.
Any ideas on replacing this? I'm sure a brass tube can be cut to length and drilled for discharge. What size and how many holes?
Back in the seventies I always had a Bendix zenith on my shovelhead I thought it was a good carburetor
Is that a cast iron body?
I have a 7j1077 cat d4 dozer, and i was wondering if you could tell me what type of gear oil i should use for the rear end and transmission.
Thank’s for the information.I really enjoy your videos.
Torch in the shop I thought that was a No No.
👍 😊 ….. but I am curious 🤔 when did Zenith stop making carburetors and branch into televisions ? 😳.. 😝 ✌️🤙
As far as the long needle that is getting very hard to get could another option be to get a medical syringe the same diameter take the old thumbscrew and drill a hole where the needle was and solder The syringe needle in the hall? I do not know if it would work with solder
I also know that model railroader supplies have brass tubes that size that they use for piping etc. I wonder if you could use one of those with the same method so it would be brass
Sure hope Jr. Is paying you what you're see worth.
Broken parts means donor carbs, a lot of donor carbs. Love to Senior say, go back to the old bins of stock.
should just go holley EFI
Then you have to add an electrical system, all kinds of sensors, battery, and charging system. After that you have to program it and hope it works. No thanks!!!!!!! I still wish I could get my 70 Dodge back. When it broke down I didn't need a computer to find out what was wrong with it. I could check a few things and know where to start and I never had to spend hours checking one sensor after another and following hundreds of wires to fix a minor problem that was causing the ECM to limit the performance of the car.
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸☕️☕️☕️👋👋👋👀👀👀🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸