I've done a very similar routine for my setup -except, I place a very small peg in each outermost corner of the build plate (if it's shorter than your first layer height, the slicer will likely not include them in the gcode - even if they do print, they're extremely tiny and easy to remove between prints). I then grouped all 4 pegs with the inset. I did all components the same way. That way, once I imported them into the slicer, all I had to do was center them. It saved me from having to go through the entire alignment process you shared here. - My way is completely separate prints per color too, though (make sure you keep the bed from cooling down between prints). This means you can do it on absolutely any FDM printer.
Great video, it never occurred to me that you could do it this way, I've used a 2 in 1 printer, and seen people do this trick but with completely separate prints and hoping the bed didn't shift at all. This is a great way of doing it. Thanks.
If you would have imported your phone case into prusaslicer first and then done an “add part” and selected your inlays, it would have properly positioned them exactly where they need to go.
When I thought this was a boring video and suddenly it turned into a fantastic video when I scrolled to 10:27 I watched many 3D print videos, and this is the 1st time I have seen someone show this wonderful tip :)
I know the video is old and probably you know this, but just click on the object and select negative volume, it will allow you to see it with a transparency to align and then slice by interchanging the negative and part options.
Jeff, really enjoying your vid’s! Figured you’d be a good person to ask about printer purchase options. I have an old Qidi X-One that I had fun with 4 years ago, but got away from printing with other endeavors (it’s still working minus an extruder that needs unclogging). Wanting to get back in mostly for functional parts and some improved durability parts (GoPro mounts, battery pump adapter mounts, etc, etc). I’m a reasonable tinkerer. Looking at a Kingroon KP3S on the low cost end and a Prusa i3 MK3S+ (kit) on the high cost end. Also looking at the Qidi X-plus since I was pretty happy with the old X-One, and intrigued about using it for ABS. Just curious how you would lean in this case? Thanks for any input!
Wow that's 2 diffrent extremes. I don't have any experience with the Qidi printers. I did buy my Kp3s as a low cost version of the prusa mini. With a few mods I'd put it up against one any day. I love my mk3s. A friend best describes it as the iPhone of printers. It just works. It's my only printer I have not modded because it doesn't need to be.
@@jeffs3dcorner Cool! I guess at that price it’s hard to go wrong. The only real limitation for me will be the ability to easily print things like ABS, Nylon and PC. I’m guessing it would struggle with a 100 deg C bed temp. For the lower temp materials it should be great. Might buy one just for PLA.
Hi, great video. I am trying this right now and do you now if there has been any changes in the firmware or the slicer? When the printer goes to do the color/tool changes it retracts the filament at fullspeed "clicking like crazy" and continues to wipe the nozzle the moves to the front to change filament but the filament is already extracted. After I insert the new filament it goes back to the purge tower and lowers the nozzle and extrudes a huge blob an then starts to wipe through it and makes a big mess. Could it be the added m600 in tool-change code?
This is an old comment, but maybe others will find this helpful. I was haveing the same issue and I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm. Printer Settings -> General Extruders: 2 Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled) Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print) {if layer_num >= 0} G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1} {endif} Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled Length: 0 Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled Length: 0 Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters Cooling Tube Position: 0 Cooling Tube Length: 0 Filament Parking Position: 0 Extra loading distance: -2 Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders: Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled) Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)
No, you are essentially printing 3 different things, just all in the same area. It's really no different if you printed 3 separate things on 3 different areas.
This method works perfectly in terms of print quality, when print finishes successfully, but makes a huge mess with a purge block. When the print consists of a single part, but uses different extruder for some layers - printer purges filament on a purge block perfectly. But when I print with inlay - I end up with a huge blob of plastic instead of the clean purge blob and the nozzle goes through that blob, melting through it. Needless to say it may pick up some plastic which is going to be lodged into the print.
I had the same issue, but I was able to resolve it with the following settings. I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm. Printer Settings -> General Extruders: 2 Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled) Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print) {if layer_num >= 0} G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1} {endif} Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled Length: 0 Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled Length: 0 Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters Cooling Tube Position: 0 Cooling Tube Length: 0 Filament Parking Position: 0 Extra loading distance: -2 Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders: Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled) Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)
👍👍👍 this was supper helpful, thanks for sharing.
I've done a very similar routine for my setup -except, I place a very small peg in each outermost corner of the build plate (if it's shorter than your first layer height, the slicer will likely not include them in the gcode - even if they do print, they're extremely tiny and easy to remove between prints). I then grouped all 4 pegs with the inset. I did all components the same way. That way, once I imported them into the slicer, all I had to do was center them. It saved me from having to go through the entire alignment process you shared here. - My way is completely separate prints per color too, though (make sure you keep the bed from cooling down between prints). This means you can do it on absolutely any FDM printer.
Outstanding video. Watching this helped me solve my problem that I was having. Thank you.
I’m only a couple of months in to my 3d printing journey and loving it. I appreciate this tutorial, thanks
Great video, it never occurred to me that you could do it this way, I've used a 2 in 1 printer, and seen people do this trick but with completely separate prints and hoping the bed didn't shift at all. This is a great way of doing it. Thanks.
Was getting serious slicer issues until watching your video. Big thank you dude! I'll have more hair thanks to you 👍
If you would have imported your phone case into prusaslicer first and then done an “add part” and selected your inlays, it would have properly positioned them exactly where they need to go.
When I thought this was a boring video and suddenly it turned into a fantastic video when I scrolled to 10:27
I watched many 3D print videos, and this is the 1st time I have seen someone show this wonderful tip :)
😎 Please change the battery in your smoke detector.
Ha Jeff your smoke detector keeps chiping have noticed it over a couple of your videos. Time to change battery.
It was a old one I changed out and and put in a box. I did find it recently and took the battery out.
@jeff3dcorner I didn't read the comments first and started to check my smoke detectors around the house 😅. Thanks for the video, I will give it a try.
I cannot believe I didn't know this. Amazing trick thank you!
I know the video is old and probably you know this, but just click on the object and select negative volume, it will allow you to see it with a transparency to align and then slice by interchanging the negative and part options.
muito legal esta idéia, obrigado por partilhar
very cool this idea, thanks for sharing
nice video! just came across your channel, and I can tell from stuff in your corner you must also live in Canada lol. just subscribed!
Yes I do eh!
@@jeffs3dcorner those containers ( which i love and have over a dozen of ) and the water bottle were 2 of the signs that i knew
Dead giveaway
Thanks for the video. Now, I'm gonna try that (with Fusion 360 and a Prusa Mini+).
Thanks for the lesson.
Thanks Jeff!
Great video, it was super helpful. Thanks. Did you change the battery in the smoke detector? J/K, Cheers.
Dude, change your smoke alarm battery. 🤣
I’m gonna give it a try to do some inlay tokens. Solid color with each one having an inlay colored letter.
Jeff, really enjoying your vid’s! Figured you’d be a good person to ask about printer purchase options. I have an old Qidi X-One that I had fun with 4 years ago, but got away from printing with other endeavors (it’s still working minus an extruder that needs unclogging). Wanting to get back in mostly for functional parts and some improved durability parts (GoPro mounts, battery pump adapter mounts, etc, etc). I’m a reasonable tinkerer. Looking at a Kingroon KP3S on the low cost end and a Prusa i3 MK3S+ (kit) on the high cost end. Also looking at the Qidi X-plus since I was pretty happy with the old X-One, and intrigued about using it for ABS. Just curious how you would lean in this case? Thanks for any input!
Wow that's 2 diffrent extremes. I don't have any experience with the Qidi printers. I did buy my Kp3s as a low cost version of the prusa mini. With a few mods I'd put it up against one any day. I love my mk3s. A friend best describes it as the iPhone of printers. It just works. It's my only printer I have not modded because it doesn't need to be.
@@jeffs3dcorner Cool! I guess at that price it’s hard to go wrong. The only real limitation for me will be the ability to easily print things like ABS, Nylon and PC. I’m guessing it would struggle with a 100 deg C bed temp. For the lower temp materials it should be great. Might buy one just for PLA.
How do you make it rehome after swapping the filament? I can never get the old one out and the new one in without moving the x-axis.
Thank you Good Video ;-)
Nice Video Jeff. What filament did you change to for the sides of the case. You said soft. Is that TPU? I didn't get that details.
Yes just a generic tpu.
Great video! Where did you come up with the number .2 to drop the "hole" text.
Printed layer height.
Hi, great video. I am trying this right now and do you now if there has been any changes in the firmware or the slicer? When the printer goes to do the color/tool changes it retracts the filament at fullspeed "clicking like crazy" and continues to wipe the nozzle the moves to the front to change filament but the filament is already extracted. After I insert the new filament it goes back to the purge tower and lowers the nozzle and extrudes a huge blob an then starts to wipe through it and makes a big mess. Could it be the added m600 in tool-change code?
possible.
This is an old comment, but maybe others will find this helpful. I was haveing the same issue and I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm.
Printer Settings -> General
Extruders: 2
Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled)
Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print)
{if layer_num >= 0}
G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left
M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1}
{endif}
Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters
Cooling Tube Position: 0
Cooling Tube Length: 0
Filament Parking Position: 0
Extra loading distance: -2
Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders:
Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled)
Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)
I am still a little confused, won't the print head have problems with 3 colours on the same layer?
No, you are essentially printing 3 different things, just all in the same area. It's really no different if you printed 3 separate things on 3 different areas.
this method would work with the bambu lab printers?
to do it in simplify is it the same way?
? How come the Disney was orange and then became black in the final piece ?
This method works perfectly in terms of print quality, when print finishes successfully, but makes a huge mess with a purge block.
When the print consists of a single part, but uses different extruder for some layers - printer purges filament on a purge block perfectly. But when I print with inlay - I end up with a huge blob of plastic instead of the clean purge blob and the nozzle goes through that blob, melting through it. Needless to say it may pick up some plastic which is going to be lodged into the print.
I had the same issue, but I was able to resolve it with the following settings.
I found these settings for my MK3S+ and PRUSA Slicer work like a charm.
Printer Settings -> General
Extruders: 2
Single extruder multimaterial: Checked (enabled)
Printer Settings -> Custom Go-code -> Tool change (the Gzero Xzero Yzero line is very important! as it moves the head to the front left so that blobs don't end up on your print)
{if layer_num >= 0}
G0 X0 Y0 ; go to front/left
M600 ; change to filament for extruder; {next_extruder + 1}
{endif}
Printer Settings -> Extruder 1 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Extruder 2 -> Retraction when tool is disabled
Length: 0
Printer Settings -> Single Extruder MM Setup -> Single extruder multimaterial parameters
Cooling Tube Position: 0
Cooling Tube Length: 0
Filament Parking Position: 0
Extra loading distance: -2
Print Settings -> Multiple Extruders:
Wipe tower: Checked (Enabled)
Prime all printing extruders: Unchecked (disabled)
i wish santa will bring me mosaic palette 3 this year :D
Same and a camera that does proper auto focus.
Geez, I can't concentrate on your video with that smoke decorator going off.