What I noticed from printing many multi color models is that the prime tower is mostly needed when printing models with text, such as a box lid that has some writing on it. If there's no prime tower, it many cases the writing will be under extruded and messed up.
Thanks! As a new P1S owner, I'm trying to get my head around all the complexities of 3D printing. This helped a lot for multi-color printing, and the pros and cons of Prime Towers. Clear, concise and to the point. Great work 😀
You can use prime tower like purge tower. Lower your purge and the color left on the nozzle will be purged into the prime tower. So you will get stability on prints with prime tower without the waste of it.
If you pair this with flushing into object and the color change waste reduction gcode, you can then reduce the purge tower's size to the minimum volume the slicer will allow (probably 1 cubic mm) and then prime initial tiny bit of volume with the purge tower and the rest into random toys and tools rather than waste. By the time the hotend gets to your actual print, it's ready to go.
I was wondering about cutting the prime tower by half. So I search for it here and you were the first result. Thanks for sharing! It will save my time from experimenting myself.
your welcome man! glad that its helpful. I‘ve also been experimenting with other settings after I posted this video and currently i use 5/10 and still get great results.
@@Lukis3D Duuude! I appreciated the tests, I do own a Bambu + ams but try always to minimize color changes on the same layer or close, I swear I still refuse to print full multicolor with one toolhead, it makes an insane amount of waste! Like the mini Jordan poops 3 times the volume of the build and it's 3 colors, madness! Thanks for printing for us all those pokemons 😅
@@Lukis3D *ending the video - I liked a lot the robot, Im very into the Dummy13 thing and the bot u printed is very nice to be a print in place. Hueforges and flat prints on bed is where u got to the point! Ok, one point I have is that a 7m difference it's not always just a 1% on 8hrs. My life is short 7 mins is 7 mins! Apart that, the added time is negligible and the difference is crucial I see, when you have color changes on the bed or on the visible upper surfaces. There, it makes the difference because the color change and nozzle residual pressure is managed at best and the prime tower is needed so large only when it has layers with multiple color switches. That thing the residual pressure sends me mad. Now I know what t f is making the nozzle drip. Negligible with PLA but sensitive on PETG. Really, thanks! I'm working on some printable playin cards just right now, other than enjoy a lot hueforge. Using that pesky tower sometimes will improve some things!
Yep - you can. This comment is old, so you probably figured it out already, but when you have more than one object on the plate and the plate has multiple colors, just right click one of the models on the plate and select "Flush Options" and then "Flush Into Object".
Thank you so much for this video. You confirmed my suspicions that a prime tower was mostly needed but it didn't have to be the default size. This was all great information and a great comparison.
your welcome! yes and nobody talked alot about this so thats why i made the test so i could share my results to those who’re looking for the same info.
I can tell how much effort and work you put in this video. Thank you so much mate, I really appreciate it! Keep it up ❤ Greetings from another A1 user :)
That was the best analysis on the subject I've seen. Good job. I think it's pretty marginal, just depends on the person. For "artistic" prints keep it mostly on to get the best quality, for other situations, I turn it down or off. It's a separate decision for each print.
Lukis3D!!! This video is awesome, you solved a problem you didn’t even mean to. I have been struggling with the trick that everyone tells you about: for PLA you can use PETG as a support interface and it improves print quality. This is true but I had a huge problem: When you have tall prints the prime tower gets very tall and when PETG and PLA are both used on a print, the prime tower uses both filaments in the tower. I had a print that was about 8 hours long and it failed 6 hours in because my prime tower broke, due to the PLA and PETG not adhering as you might expect. But I was told that the prime tower is required! You have shown that it is not required and I could just purge out some extra filament I instead of worrying about a print failing due to prime tower adhesion issues. Thank you so much.
hey man your welcome! That‘s awesome, I‘m glad that my video somehow helped you, indirectly😄 I hope you get the great results while saving filaments and printing time!
Thank you. Just got my first ams lite. The waste was concerning, but worse was i didn't understand what it was even doing. I like others thought it was a purge tower. Thanks for the clarity!
Neat video! Something I've experimented with is mitigating underextrusion by doing inner perimeters first, or by using a skirt to get over the issue with the first layer.
I would say flow is fixed by the time the outer wall is being printed especially if your print order is Inner/Outer. I think it explains the Vader print small holes. I personally use 10 width and 10 volume.
Thanks for Video, subscribed. Im a beginner in 3d printing too. Bought A1 Mini combo couple weeks ago, haven't even tried AMS yet) Will wait for more Videos.
Thank you for doing this experiment. I guess you need prime tower if you have multicolor first layer or want it to be perfect. For other layers underextrusion will go into the inner wall and you won't see it.
Thank you for doing this. I have always wanted to know.. and now I do! ❤ I would be interested in a future video that reduces filament retraction during swaps to see if poop + purge tower can both be reduced without loss of quality. Thanks again for your time in testing. You da bomb :)
Simply choose "by object" printing. Time and money savings are enormous. Some additional number of plates may be required but still the savings are huge. If mixed colours on the same piece is absolutely needed, which is a very rare case for me anyway, then I print the object in white and paint it by hand and I still get big time and material savings.
well not everyone wants to paint their models so multicolor printing is just another way you can do it. But this video is focused more on the effects of the prime tower, and less on saving filaments since there’s alot of other ways to do that
is it impossible that instead of the prime tower the sclicer makes the first a bit of filament extrude a bit more than normal and it would fix the issue and that you could adjust by how much and for the first how much distance
About your comment on not needing a tower on single color models- there is one exception to this, and it is timelapses. It needs to generate the prime tower because of how it returns to the purge swiper every layer for the timelapse.
yep, if you saw my timelapse tutorial video, I do recommend to turn it on. The principle is also the same here, you can use the eco mode for the prime tower. My favorite settings currently: 5/10. It’ll make a very slim prime tower but doesn’t hurt the quality of the model!
I'm looking into getting into 3d printing. With the Bambu sale. I appreciate this video. I'm a complete noob and don't know much as I'm kinda jumping into this blind. The information was clear and the content didn't waste any time. Great job.
So the conclusion I get is that a prime tower is advised, but the default settings are too strong (probably on purpose) I'm wondering, if combining this with the option to prime into the model (in the infill for exemple) could remove the prime tower entirely without risking that slight underextrusion that might happen sometimes. After all, if the infill is under-extruded in a few spots it hardly matter, no?
Seems like there would be some value in being able to restrict the height of the prime tower so it could be used for improving the bottom layer. Or being able to set the volume for various layer-heights. Logically, only the top/bottom shell and the walls are particularly sensitive to the lack of a prime tower. At least for the minor defects that seems to be showing up without the prime tower. Having the prime tower be more of a tree support structure would allow it to prime more for layers with a lot of external surfaces. Actually. Couldn't printing infill first be used to partially replace the prime tower as well?
Some super strong caveats apply to this testing - PLA is the easiest thermoplastic to get back up to pressure, so it has less need for a prime tower. Printing anything in even PETG and the lack of a prime tower will be much greater. You'll also find that the impacts will vary depending on when and how the change occurs - if it's on an outside wall, the influence is EXTREME. Bambu studio and other slicers will try to avoid this, but if you have a colour that is only being used on a wall (like text or other fine detailing), the lack of a prime tower will ruin the whole print. Anything functional will also have that change point as a significant structural weakness. The prime tower also looks a lot bigger than it actually is - it's like 0.1% infill and with a super thin wall. You can print a 500g full bambu bed and only need 25g of prime tower. A single failed print saved with a prime tower = 20 whole towers saved.
hey man thanks for your inpu! As I pointed out at the end of the video, this test was specific to those filaments I chose and to the models I printed - It’s a given that not all models and plastics share the same characteristics. It‘s not meant to be the rule of thumb, as I said in the video. I also welcome other users to do their own tests, if they have specific needs.
thanks for comment! and im glad that you saw that. My initial plan for this test was to keep everything at default as much as possible and only change the prime tower settings, so i could judge the results solely based on the different prime tower settings.
yeah looks like it too, but I do recommend turning it on, and reduce the size further to 5/10 if the prints aren‘t too tall. I‘ve had only successes so far with these super-eco settings.
i have a p1s and no ams (going to go get one soon). i do multi color by layer with pauses. ive done both. i find that when i load the new filament, if i just make it extrude 3 or 4 extra times, i don't need the prime tower and dont have any underextrusion issues. not sure how you could do that on ams?
great video! just upgraded from a Sv06 to a X1 Carbon (that I haven't received yet) so dumb question is the prime tower only need for muti color prints? or does bambu use it on all there prints including single filament prints
yeah I always print with the tower, though i now reduce it to 5/10 and sometimes make the brim of the prime tower abit bigger if i print something taller 😁
yes i think its the newest one. Nevertheless, In this video, my goal was to only evaluate the prime tower, so i didnt use any optimisation (like changing the flushing volumes or purging in infill etc.). I tried to keep everything at default except the prime tower settings.
Supports don't exist in many prints and don't exist once all supported areas are exhausted beyond the lower layers. A more reliable method would be to print infill first, then inner walls, followed by outer walls. ..or at the very least print outer walls after inner walls because I don't know if slicers support printing infill first.
i dont know if that option is available in Bambu Studio, but if it does, that second object would be susceptible to underextrusion. Unless that second object isn‘t that important, i guess it would be fine.
i don't see why theres no setting for the prime tower to be printed away from an object when possible, that way the tower will only be printing on layers with a change in them.
i guess that would save some filaments, but if it has to move away, then move down, then move up again everytime, that would mean longer printing time and adds the risk that the print head will knock down your model. But the idea is good, hopefully they’ll come up with that solution soon
20 g is about 7.7 % of 259 g... If you're gonna round, you could at least round to the nearest number, not to the nearest 10 or whatever. :D
aw poop, i mustve miscalculated that one! thanks for pointing that out!
What I noticed from printing many multi color models is that the prime tower is mostly needed when printing models with text, such as a box lid that has some writing on it. If there's no prime tower, it many cases the writing will be under extruded and messed up.
Thanks! As a new P1S owner, I'm trying to get my head around all the complexities of 3D printing. This helped a lot for multi-color printing, and the pros and cons of Prime Towers. Clear, concise and to the point. Great work 😀
You can use prime tower like purge tower. Lower your purge and the color left on the nozzle will be purged into the prime tower. So you will get stability on prints with prime tower without the waste of it.
If you pair this with flushing into object and the color change waste reduction gcode, you can then reduce the purge tower's size to the minimum volume the slicer will allow (probably 1 cubic mm) and then prime initial tiny bit of volume with the purge tower and the rest into random toys and tools rather than waste. By the time the hotend gets to your actual print, it's ready to go.
I was wondering about cutting the prime tower by half. So I search for it here and you were the first result. Thanks for sharing! It will save my time from experimenting myself.
your welcome man! glad that its helpful. I‘ve also been experimenting with other settings after I posted this video and currently i use 5/10 and still get great results.
"I WASTED FILAMENTS SO YOU DONT HAVE TO" said the legend
exactly😂
@@Lukis3D Duuude! I appreciated the tests, I do own a Bambu + ams but try always to minimize color changes on the same layer or close, I swear I still refuse to print full multicolor with one toolhead, it makes an insane amount of waste! Like the mini Jordan poops 3 times the volume of the build and it's 3 colors, madness! Thanks for printing for us all those pokemons 😅
@@Lukis3D *ending the video - I liked a lot the robot, Im very into the Dummy13 thing and the bot u printed is very nice to be a print in place. Hueforges and flat prints on bed is where u got to the point!
Ok, one point I have is that a 7m difference it's not always just a 1% on 8hrs. My life is short 7 mins is 7 mins!
Apart that, the added time is negligible and the difference is crucial I see, when you have color changes on the bed or on the visible upper surfaces.
There, it makes the difference because the color change and nozzle residual pressure is managed at best and the prime tower is needed so large only when it has layers with multiple color switches.
That thing the residual pressure sends me mad. Now I know what t f is making the nozzle drip. Negligible with PLA but sensitive on PETG. Really, thanks! I'm working on some printable playin cards just right now, other than enjoy a lot hueforge. Using that pesky tower sometimes will improve some things!
I heard you can use objects as a prime tower if you don't mind muticolors in your second object. It would be cool to have you showcase that as well.
Yep - you can. This comment is old, so you probably figured it out already, but when you have more than one object on the plate and the plate has multiple colors, just right click one of the models on the plate and select "Flush Options" and then "Flush Into Object".
For a beginner, this was just what I was looking for - thank you!
your welcome, that was my intention😊 Glad that it‘s helpful!
Same here, this was very helpful
Thank you for testing this. Well done and very good explanation, video quality and results. Loved it.
your welcome! glad it helped
Thank you so much for this video. You confirmed my suspicions that a prime tower was mostly needed but it didn't have to be the default size.
This was all great information and a great comparison.
your welcome! yes and nobody talked alot about this so thats why i made the test so i could share my results to those who’re looking for the same info.
Great video, the data is laid out very clearly. Thank you :)
thank you for your comment!😊
I can tell how much effort and work you put in this video. Thank you so much mate, I really appreciate it! Keep it up ❤
Greetings from another A1 user :)
thanks man! glad that it‘s helpful. *high five🤚🏻*
That was the best analysis on the subject I've seen. Good job. I think it's pretty marginal, just depends on the person. For "artistic" prints keep it mostly on to get the best quality, for other situations, I turn it down or off. It's a separate decision for each print.
well said! and thanks for your comment🫶🏻
Nicely done experiment. Thank you.
thanks so much man, hope it is helpful!
Thank you for doing the test for us. You’re a true soldier!
hey your welcome man! Hope its helpful👍🏼
Lukis3D!!! This video is awesome, you solved a problem you didn’t even mean to. I have been struggling with the trick that everyone tells you about: for PLA you can use PETG as a support interface and it improves print quality. This is true but I had a huge problem:
When you have tall prints the prime tower gets very tall and when PETG and PLA are both used on a print, the prime tower uses both filaments in the tower. I had a print that was about 8 hours long and it failed 6 hours in because my prime tower broke, due to the PLA and PETG not adhering as you might expect.
But I was told that the prime tower is required! You have shown that it is not required and I could just purge out some extra filament I instead of worrying about a print failing due to prime tower adhesion issues.
Thank you so much.
hey man your welcome! That‘s awesome, I‘m glad that my video somehow helped you, indirectly😄
I hope you get the great results while saving filaments and printing time!
Thank you. For this I will be trimming down the amount of filament used for the purge tower.
Thank you. Just got my first ams lite. The waste was concerning, but worse was i didn't understand what it was even doing. I like others thought it was a purge tower. Thanks for the clarity!
your welcome, glad that its helpful!
Best video I have watch on this issue THANK YOU! very helpful
your welcome, Glad it helped!
spot on video, very informative and editing on point, you have gained a sub
Thanks for testing this! Really nice and informative video!
your welcome! Glad that you find it helpful👍🏼
All I can say is THANKS! I am a new 3D printer owner and I have been binge-watching all related content.
You welcome, and welcome to the hobby! Which printer do you have?
@@Lukis3D I got the Bambu Lab P1S combo. So far all I have printed are toys and demos, but I plan on using it for engineering purposes.
Hi, from Brazil, thank you for the video!
your welcome! Glad that you find it’s helpful👍🏼
This was very insightful. Thanks!
your welcome, glad that you liked it!
Neat video! Something I've experimented with is mitigating underextrusion by doing inner perimeters first, or by using a skirt to get over the issue with the first layer.
thank you, and thats a great idea!
This was a helpful insight for me. Thanks for making the content!
your welcome! glad it helped!
thanks for doing the testing ! learned something today
your welcome, glad you find it helpful!
This helped me understand what the function does in BambuStudio. Thank you!! Subscribed for more education :D
thanks so much! Glad you find my video helpful!😁
Good info. Thanks for the science 🔬🥼
Thanks, any time! Glad that its helpful
Thank you for the informative video!
your welcome! Hope it is helpful😊
I just got my A1 Combo after using a CR-10S Pro V2 for years so I've got a bit of a learning curve. This video was very helpful. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
the color bleeding is related to the purge amount anyways, you can just increase it etc!
As someone who is fresh off the hot bed (lol), I appreciate the dedication into looking into this and giving everyone the feedback ☺️
thanks man! and welcome to the world of 3D printing😁
Thansk for testing it! Helped us a lot!
your welcome! Glad that its helpful
I would say flow is fixed by the time the outer wall is being printed especially if your print order is Inner/Outer. I think it explains the Vader print small holes. I personally use 10 width and 10 volume.
i use 10/15 from time to time with great success, and thanks for pointing that out!
Thanks for Video, subscribed. Im a beginner in 3d printing too. Bought A1 Mini combo couple weeks ago, haven't even tried AMS yet) Will wait for more Videos.
your welcome! and welcome to the club!
Thanks for testing!
your welcome, hopefully it helps!
Thank you for doing this experiment. I guess you need prime tower if you have multicolor first layer or want it to be perfect. For other layers underextrusion will go into the inner wall and you won't see it.
your welcome! Yes you can of course do that as well 😊
Exactly what i was looking for thanks so much!!
your welcome! good luck💪🏼
Thanks for this. I just started 3d printing is this was so helpful.
your welcome! Glad that its helpful. And welcome to 3D printing!
Awesome video!
I am new to 3d printing and videos like this is making it a way more enjoyable experience
Nice vídeo, nice work. Congrats!
Very informative video. Thank you.
your welcome, glad its helpful!
took forever to find this... excellent. im subscribing.
also, i wanted my colors to blend, zeroed out flushing volumes..
your welcome man! and thanks for subbing!
Thanks for the video bro, very informative
your welcome, glad it helped!
i remmber like years ago they find a solution well not bambu lab but the open maker space . it was literaly dumping in the infil.
Very helpful, thanks
your welcome, glad you liked it🙏🏼
Thank you for doing this. I have always wanted to know.. and now I do! ❤ I would be interested in a future video that reduces filament retraction during swaps to see if poop + purge tower can both be reduced without loss of quality. Thanks again for your time in testing. You da bomb :)
thanks for your comment! Yes it's definitely one of many things that i wanna test out too!
Thank you for this interesting test.
your welcome! glad that its helpful
Exactly what I was looking for. Now to reduce the poop
good luck man!
Simply choose "by object" printing. Time and money savings are enormous. Some additional number of plates may be required but still the savings are huge. If mixed colours on the same piece is absolutely needed, which is a very rare case for me anyway, then I print the object in white and paint it by hand and I still get big time and material savings.
well not everyone wants to paint their models so multicolor printing is just another way you can do it. But this video is focused more on the effects of the prime tower, and less on saving filaments since there’s alot of other ways to do that
Great video! Ive always been curious on how much difference that tower made
Nice analysis
thanks man, glad that its helpful🙏🏼
wow man bambu is some witch craft, i never imagined multi color
is it impossible that instead of the prime tower the sclicer makes the first a bit of filament extrude a bit more than normal and it would fix the issue and that you could adjust by how much and for the first how much distance
what abt purging into model mode?
About your comment on not needing a tower on single color models- there is one exception to this, and it is timelapses. It needs to generate the prime tower because of how it returns to the purge swiper every layer for the timelapse.
yep, if you saw my timelapse tutorial video, I do recommend to turn it on. The principle is also the same here, you can use the eco mode for the prime tower. My favorite settings currently: 5/10. It’ll make a very slim prime tower but doesn’t hurt the quality of the model!
@@Lukis3D Thanks for the info! I'll be checking out that video next.
Great work, loving your content 👍👍
🇦🇺
thanks man!
Nice video, thanks for the time and the tests!
Nice one. I have shrunk the tower but never tryed it without. interesting results. Cheers.
Very well made and very useful/helpful video 👍😊. Thanks! Subbed. 🥰
Awesome, thank you!
I'm looking into getting into 3d printing. With the Bambu sale. I appreciate this video. I'm a complete noob and don't know much as I'm kinda jumping into this blind.
The information was clear and the content didn't waste any time. Great job.
thanks for your comment! The A1 Mini is my first printer and its so beginner friendly and im having so much fun printing with it!
Thanks for this.
your welcome man! Glad you find it helpful
Thank you so much!
your welcome! Hope it was helpful👍🏼
Making toys for my son in the future I’ll turn the towers off. He just wants the toy he doesn’t need it perfect. Thanks for the info!!!
your welcome, I’m sure he’ll like the toys!
So the conclusion I get is that a prime tower is advised, but the default settings are too strong (probably on purpose)
I'm wondering, if combining this with the option to prime into the model (in the infill for exemple) could remove the prime tower entirely without risking that slight underextrusion that might happen sometimes.
After all, if the infill is under-extruded in a few spots it hardly matter, no?
Seems like there would be some value in being able to restrict the height of the prime tower so it could be used for improving the bottom layer. Or being able to set the volume for various layer-heights.
Logically, only the top/bottom shell and the walls are particularly sensitive to the lack of a prime tower. At least for the minor defects that seems to be showing up without the prime tower. Having the prime tower be more of a tree support structure would allow it to prime more for layers with a lot of external surfaces.
Actually. Couldn't printing infill first be used to partially replace the prime tower as well?
nice work!
thank you!
Thanjkyouuuu!
Thanks!
your welcome!
Thanks for this info 😁
your welcome!
Some super strong caveats apply to this testing - PLA is the easiest thermoplastic to get back up to pressure, so it has less need for a prime tower. Printing anything in even PETG and the lack of a prime tower will be much greater. You'll also find that the impacts will vary depending on when and how the change occurs - if it's on an outside wall, the influence is EXTREME. Bambu studio and other slicers will try to avoid this, but if you have a colour that is only being used on a wall (like text or other fine detailing), the lack of a prime tower will ruin the whole print. Anything functional will also have that change point as a significant structural weakness. The prime tower also looks a lot bigger than it actually is - it's like 0.1% infill and with a super thin wall. You can print a 500g full bambu bed and only need 25g of prime tower. A single failed print saved with a prime tower = 20 whole towers saved.
hey man thanks for your inpu! As I pointed out at the end of the video, this test was specific to those filaments I chose and to the models I printed - It’s a given that not all models and plastics share the same characteristics.
It‘s not meant to be the rule of thumb, as I said in the video. I also welcome other users to do their own tests, if they have specific needs.
Great video!
Did you try the option "flush into objects infill"? I saw, that you deselected this option.
thanks for comment! and im glad that you saw that. My initial plan for this test was to keep everything at default as much as possible and only change the prime tower settings, so i could judge the results solely based on the different prime tower settings.
looks like there'd be big gains in having a 'first-layer only' purge
yeah looks like it too, but I do recommend turning it on, and reduce the size further to 5/10 if the prints aren‘t too tall. I‘ve had only successes so far with these super-eco settings.
nice job, thank you for that. did you know that you can use any model as prime tower (they should be equal hight)
your welcome man! Yeah that’s doable as well, as long as that you don’t care about the color of the other “sacrificial” model
Thanks for this great test 👍
no problem, and glad it helped!
Looks like you only need the priming on the 1st layer - perhaps when it is going slower?
i have a p1s and no ams (going to go get one soon). i do multi color by layer with pauses. ive done both. i find that when i load the new filament, if i just make it extrude 3 or 4 extra times, i don't need the prime tower and dont have any underextrusion issues. not sure how you could do that on ams?
2:43 Poop Größe ist einstellbar
After my first print and a firmware update it stop doing the tower purge idk.
great video! just upgraded from a Sv06 to a X1 Carbon (that I haven't received yet) so dumb question is the prime tower only need for muti color prints? or does bambu use it on all there prints including single filament prints
thanks man! No you don’t need a prime towet for single colored printing, unless you’re shooting a timelapse. Then i recommend turning it on.
Thank you
your welcome!
good info. will reduce it by 1/2. tnx
your welcome!
Ótimo experimento. Foram poucas as entre os modelos.
great video thank you so much
If there's a risk of under extrusion without the prime tower, then I think I'm just going to leave it there, especially when I print miniatures.
yeah I always print with the tower, though i now reduce it to 5/10 and sometimes make the brim of the prime tower abit bigger if i print something taller 😁
Lukis, just looking at the poop amount: are you using the latest default bambu settings? or have you tried any pooptimisations?
yes i think its the newest one. Nevertheless, In this video, my goal was to only evaluate the prime tower, so i didnt use any optimisation (like changing the flushing volumes or purging in infill etc.). I tried to keep everything at default except the prime tower settings.
What I'm getting is if the waste bothers us, we can avoid it. Good to know
when printing with supports, is there any reason we can't just prime to the supports?
Supports don't exist in many prints and don't exist once all supported areas are exhausted beyond the lower layers. A more reliable method would be to print infill first, then inner walls, followed by outer walls. ..or at the very least print outer walls after inner walls because I don't know if slicers support printing infill first.
Thank you very much
my granddaughter has come with all kinds of uses for them!
Whare'd you get the Fallout model at the end? I tried searching and only found a low poly one. Yours looked better.
sorry, i forgot to include the link 😅. Here it is: makerworld.com/models/253238
My tower broke off after 11 hours into my 13 hour print! What do I do??
Good job!
Thank you! Cheers!
Why do they not use the supports as the prime towers?
What about changing the prime tower to a different, somewhat useful object?
i dont know if that option is available in Bambu Studio, but if it does, that second object would be susceptible to underextrusion. Unless that second object isn‘t that important, i guess it would be fine.
Can I get a link to the purge tray you use?
of course, here is the link: makerworld.com/models/15603
Can we make the prime towers in egg shape or something useful? Make a video about how to recycle trash coming out of the printer (it's a lot)
most excellent!
Do you think there are many variables when using Silk PLA?
The principle should be the same. If you used the setting to print your Silk PLA next, let me know of it works!
@@Lukis3D Thank you will do!
i don't see why theres no setting for the prime tower to be printed away from an object when possible, that way the tower will only be printing on layers with a change in them.
i guess that would save some filaments, but if it has to move away, then move down, then move up again everytime, that would mean longer printing time and adds the risk that the print head will knock down your model.
But the idea is good, hopefully they’ll come up with that solution soon