3d Printing Multiple Colors in a Single/first Layer | PRUSA MK4

Today I've got an interesting 3d printing technique. It allows you to 3d print two colors on the first layer without requiring multiple prints. It's done completely through the slicer in my case prusaslicer and editing the Gcode slightly. It's actually a very straightforward process that I thought was worth sharing.
Time:
0:00 Intro
0:18 3d_modeling
3:42 PrusaSlicer
7:22 Printing
8:21 Result

[@halftome]

I have the Prusa MK4, I followed along every step exactly as you did. When I try to start my print, it just shows a blank screen. I've tried different ways and with different models, but as soon as I add a 2nd extruder and try to print, the LCD screen just goes black, and nothing. Printing with a single material works fine. Has anyone had this issue?

[@Mike-iy9mg]

I have the same issue.
I've testet two different ways to print in two colors. Both don't works...
Update:
It works. But only with Prusa Link. Apparently it has something to do with the firmware.
It doesn't work with 5.1.2 and 5.1.0.
Send your file to the printer via PrusaLink. Start the printer via PrusaLink

[@yusitron]

@@Mike-iy9mg I have the same problem, and I can't print several colors on the same layer...,
Have you found any solution for the Mk4?
Thanks!

[@bcer960interurban]

I tried the prusalink, but I cannot upload the file it says not enough memory, but its only a 700k file, anyone else have this problem?

[@Mike-iy9mg]

@@bcer960interurban First question... USB-Stick inside? 🤷‍♂

[@bcer960interurban]

I read this morning that a USB MUST be in the printer, it was step I was missing
Thanx

[@bisk1407]

much better technique than my "load two stls and print them out sequentially

[@oleurgast730]

Actually there are some tricks to improve the results further:
- add skirtlines. One for each colour you use. Prusa slicer does one after each colour change. This way the nozzle is always well primed. Hight for the skirt 3 layers (if coloured object is 3 layers thick)
- on light colours on dark, do the colourchanges the first three layers to get optimal results.
- m600 always let the nozzle return where it comes from. It can ooze into the object. So I manually edit gcode and move down the m600 after the first segment of the skirt. So any potential ooze gets into the skirt, not the object.
For text you do not edit your object, you can use text as modifier directly in Prusa Slicer.

[@slaading]

Thanks! I am not sure I understand how printing 3 layers of the first color works. Once I printed those 3 layers, is there something to do in the gcode to avoid the nozzle to bumpinto those layers when printing the rest of the object around it?

[@oleurgast730]

@@slaading You missunderstood. You print first layer, first colour, change colour, print first layer second colour, second layer second colour, change colour, second layer first colour, third layer first colour, colour change, third layer second colour. If you choose second colour for the rest, no further colour change.

[@slaading]

@@oleurgast730 thanks, super clear now!

[@maxsiebenschlafer5054]

Nice work in my cases. I always make the inprint two layers thick because the printer will print the first layer and after that the next in the white color. So you get a more consistent result. And don't have to do more color changes

[@sirual5]

Used to print such parts with my MK3. used 2 separate g-codes, but found out that on mk4 can not use this method anymore because of probing for first layer. That's how I ended up here and actually - its really nice tip. But I have some questions to clarify. First of all - what's the point of copying G600 to tool change windows? Because when I did that - program for my printer did not start at all. But then I tried to leave as is - it worked! Any explanation?

[@burweed7536]

Amazing ! Thx.

[@marsrocket]

Very clever

[@xPaRi]

Zastřihávej konce filamentu. Ty chlupy nedělají dobře kolečkám extruderu.
Jinak dobré video 👍

[@joeg1992]

M600 works in Klipper, you just have to create a macro, plenty are out there for it. I use it all the time for printing 2 colors on separate layers, not on the same layer.

[@filipflajsinger]

Thx, for advice.

[@danielilstedt8992]

How come the first layer is going so fast and why is the quality so bad when I print. The wite color isn't covering I can see black holes.

[@mispulin9646]

Dobrá angličtina

[@unknownsoldiertom]

Ahoj, nemáš i CZ verzi pro tupce ?😂🙈

[@filipflajsinger]

Pro příště budu dělat české titulky. :D

[@jocelyndrolet4610]

Way too complex. I use OnShape and Bambu Studio in this explanation and I get the same result with 1/10 the effort and time.
1. Create the text underneat the screw with "surfaceText". Do not use Add or New but instead use CUT to between .01mm-.02mm deep. As small as possible for Bambu studio to allow you to use the paint bucket in the cavity. Note: Sometime .01mm is not deep enough because the paint tool do not see the cavity, in that case increase the cut to .015 for example.
2. Save your model in stl file, or better, in step file.
3.Open your model in Bambu studio
4.Paint the cavity with the paint tool
5. Have a happy print!