Good tips, but 109 is not enough, i can even use over 1 more stop, and get more zebra and still can recover highlights, sony should give us like 115 or so
I watched a bunch of videos about zebras and they all talked about some math and percentages. Your video is the only one that made sense to me. Thanks!
Canon please also add zebras for photos! I mean it's there for video. I know this functionality from Fuji, they also have it for photos. Really useful.
Holy crap this is so helpful, THANK YOU. I've been trying to figure out why I think I'm exposing for highlights, yet when I bring them into Lightroom I've got all this headroom that I kind of wasted. This is incredibly helpful!!
I knew what settings to use for video in slog3c but didn’t know for photos. Which is amazing because I had a mountain hike and the photos came out bad because below canopy, my friends faces were pitch black and the highlights were near clipping bright. Balancing them in post was hell, everything was muddied and weird looking.
I've been using Zebras for a while, and I quickly realized that I can still recover a lot of highlight detail in Capture One, but I never knew I could make the limit higher. This will definitely help me out as I probably underexpose too much at times. It hasn't been much of an issue, but it nice to have images looking well exposed straight out of camera, especially when shooting tethered.
For me it works that the histogram is at its maximum on the right (overexposed) and that last pixel is like 1/4 of the total high. With that parameter I still can recover lights. So, I have the feeling that even at 109 your histogram is not pushed to this limit I told. So it might be even higher value than 109 and still can recover highlights
Great video on this. I recently accidentally found out that the zebras work in photo mode after turning them on for video. I was like wait why are the 🦓 🦓 on. I didn’t know about the custom setting though!
This is dependant on what profile you use for jpegs though, even if you only shoot raw. If you pick vivid for example, you'll see zebras that won't be there if you choose flat. I generally use flat with contrast turned down as low as possible and dynamic range optimizer turned up to +5. That way you get the flatest possible preview, which will be as close as can be to the actual raw file.
Great video as always, & super helpful . 👍 This might be a silly question, but would these Zebra settings vary when shooting in uncompressed, lossless or compressed?
Very helpful! I actually saw this info on a Mark Galen video a while back, but it was buried in a much longer video that covered a range of topics. Your explanation is actually a bit clearer, so thank you!
One thing no one seems to talk about is the fact that if you use DRO (dynamic range optimizer) you'll get better jpg but you'll badly underexpose your raws... thinking about it now it seems obvious but at that time it took me a long time to figure out what was the problem
@@MitchLally basically any photographer on yt doesn't mention it ...or they say to turn it off, but beginners often want better jpgs "just in case (I can't properly edit the raw/I have no time to do it... Etc)"
I actually like shooting with DRO at +5 because and profile set to flat with contrast turned down as much as possible. That way my preview will be as flat as can be, as near to the actual RAW as possible. I combat the underexposing issue by setting exposure comp to +2/3 stops - zebras at 109 prevent me from clipping highlights. Here's what annoys me though: None of this should be necessary. For some reason all camera companies make you jump through such hoops. Why don't they simply implement a metering mode that exposes raw files to the right? Why is exposure based on jpeg previews? Modern day cameras should be able to read the highlight info and expose as bright as possible without losing data. Basically like contrast detect af but for exposure. Guess exposure -> move up .1 stops -> did I gain or lose information in the right half of the histogram? -> if gain => move up .1 stops and repeat ; if lose => move down .1 stop and stay there. If the meter was running that logic nonstop you'd always get the most information possible in your raw file, which is the same as exposing perfectly to the right. You could even adapt this further to prioritize skin tones, ie "did I lose information in those colors that are skin tones" as a benchmark - that would expose skin tones to the right.
What metering mode do you use though, I mean did you have experience with different metering modes and zebras 109%? I know for video would be best to have 70% for saving skin-tones!
Thank you back for the tip! what about the highlight metering mode, is that something that could help you? If you think this one is mirroring to dog you can still easily come back with the metering by using the wheel of sight on the camera for for example +0.3 or 0.6 is something what I’m using all the time
Yes, i knew about this feature and I think is a must-have in Sony cameras cause the histogram is not very precise at all. I hope more people use this function correctly in taking photos and talk about it in many videos like this, so sony can improve this function for us. 109+ with raw files is not enough because most of the time if you start to see some zebra in your files doesn't mean that the whites are clipped. So it is definitely a great function that I enable in all my Sony cameras because helps me to expose to the right of the histogram (where the sensor record most of the data), but I hope one day to see more levels (up to 120 maybe?) so we can find the perfect spot between overexposed and clipped highlights. Anyway NEVER underexpose an image. My best and thank you for your videos.
Inwould just eyeball my exposure since in standard profile there’s no highlight recovery really. I think 100 would be it though. Maybe 99 just to be safe!
As far as I know that prevents clipping highlights, but doesn't expose to the right. So doing this would come with the danger of underexposing if you shot, say, backlit subjects, wouldn't it?
A bit confused here. I've always used zebras at 100 and my photos have come out perfectly well. Also using my eyes on the scene and looking at the histogram as well. I thought that set at 100 was correct. Now, I'm a bit confused, because I can't understand the difference between the two 😕
Hi Mitch. Your page and tips on photography has helped me learn a lot. Picked a new Sony A74. What would be your recommendations of lens. Purpose: Casual photography, travel, family and children, landscape. Thanks. Big fan from India.
Tamron 17-28 f2.8 or 28-75 f2.8 this amazing lenses. I also advise you to take look at the lenses from Viltrox and Samyang (Rokinon). Perhaps the most budget option and very high quality!
@@justduit1879 Hi, Thanks. Wanted to take ur opinion on tamron 35-150mm. I know it's a heavy lens and I want a light gear too, but the focal range is tempting. Should I take the plunge or? And for travel what other range/lens would be your recommendations. I love 35mm prime too.
I knew about it and always change the zebra settings to the custom setting of 109+. I normally turn off DRO also. Learned it from Mark Galer.
Why turn off DRO? Turning it on makes the image as flat as possible, which will be closer to the raw file.
@@youknowwho9247 Search on RUclips "Turn this setting OFF on your SONY Cameras - Under exposing on Sony cameras".
@@youknowwho9247 No, on the contrary. DRO introduces an additional step of processing to your RAW photos. That's why it's best to turn it off.
Good tips, but 109 is not enough, i can even use over 1 more stop, and get more zebra and still can recover highlights, sony should give us like 115 or so
I knew about this and use it often. There’s also the Highlight priority metering mode as well. I believe it essentially does the same thing.
I watched a bunch of videos about zebras and they all talked about some math and percentages. Your video is the only one that made sense to me. Thanks!
Canon please also add zebras for photos! I mean it's there for video.
I know this functionality from Fuji, they also have it for photos. Really useful.
I know right!!
@@MitchLally the R6 also has zebra display as well (Red menu on page 7)
Holy crap this is so helpful, THANK YOU. I've been trying to figure out why I think I'm exposing for highlights, yet when I bring them into Lightroom I've got all this headroom that I kind of wasted. This is incredibly helpful!!
This was a great and very useful video! Very concise, easy to understand, immediately applicable, and enjoyable to watch! Thank You!
Hey man thanks - it’s short, succinct, not excessive. Exactly what I was looking for.
I knew what settings to use for video in slog3c but didn’t know for photos. Which is amazing because I had a mountain hike and the photos came out bad because below canopy, my friends faces were pitch black and the highlights were near clipping bright. Balancing them in post was hell, everything was muddied and weird looking.
I've been using Zebras for a while, and I quickly realized that I can still recover a lot of highlight detail in Capture One, but I never knew I could make the limit higher. This will definitely help me out as I probably underexpose too much at times. It hasn't been much of an issue, but it nice to have images looking well exposed straight out of camera, especially when shooting tethered.
For portraits sony also has this face priority in multi metering mode which could also be useful for you Mitch when you shoot portraits.
Holy shit, it has that??? Yo I never check the metering modes, I need to.
As long as Focus Point Link is turned on in the menu.
I knew about this and use it often. There’s also the Highlight priority metering mode as well. I believe it essentially does the same thing.
My assumption is highlight metering is essentially zebra with 100 level limit since the metering is still based on from the JPG.
@@Rocky_KO That makes sense
For me it works that the histogram is at its maximum on the right (overexposed) and that last pixel is like 1/4 of the total high. With that parameter I still can recover lights. So, I have the feeling that even at 109 your histogram is not pushed to this limit I told. So it might be even higher value than 109 and still can recover highlights
Maybe so but we play it safe I guess. Shadow recovery is great.
does this apply for video too?
Great video on this. I recently accidentally found out that the zebras work in photo mode after turning them on for video. I was like wait why are the 🦓 🦓 on. I didn’t know about the custom setting though!
It definitely pays to saturate the sensor to the brink of blowing out the highlights. Zebra's and histograms are a blessing.
I never knew this.. very helpful vid!! cool
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is dependant on what profile you use for jpegs though, even if you only shoot raw. If you pick vivid for example, you'll see zebras that won't be there if you choose flat. I generally use flat with contrast turned down as low as possible and dynamic range optimizer turned up to +5. That way you get the flatest possible preview, which will be as close as can be to the actual raw file.
Are u sure ? i though zebras was different than histogram and it only cares about raw file withouth caring jpeg profile
Great video as always, & super helpful . 👍 This might be a silly question, but would these Zebra settings vary when shooting in uncompressed, lossless or compressed?
Thanks! By my understanding of lossless and compressed I don’t think it would.
Thank you for sharing this!
Very helpful! I actually saw this info on a Mark Galen video a while back, but it was buried in a much longer video that covered a range of topics. Your explanation is actually a bit clearer, so thank you!
Oh thanks! I wasn’t aware of that video but I’ll check it out
Great video！How about using the ND filter？
One thing no one seems to talk about is the fact that if you use DRO (dynamic range optimizer) you'll get better jpg but you'll badly underexpose your raws... thinking about it now it seems obvious but at that time it took me a long time to figure out what was the problem
I haven’t done in depth testing with DRO
@@MitchLally basically any photographer on yt doesn't mention it ...or they say to turn it off, but beginners often want better jpgs "just in case (I can't properly edit the raw/I have no time to do it... Etc)"
I actually like shooting with DRO at +5 because and profile set to flat with contrast turned down as much as possible. That way my preview will be as flat as can be, as near to the actual RAW as possible. I combat the underexposing issue by setting exposure comp to +2/3 stops - zebras at 109 prevent me from clipping highlights.
Here's what annoys me though: None of this should be necessary. For some reason all camera companies make you jump through such hoops. Why don't they simply implement a metering mode that exposes raw files to the right? Why is exposure based on jpeg previews? Modern day cameras should be able to read the highlight info and expose as bright as possible without losing data. Basically like contrast detect af but for exposure. Guess exposure -> move up .1 stops -> did I gain or lose information in the right half of the histogram? -> if gain => move up .1 stops and repeat ; if lose => move down .1 stop and stay there. If the meter was running that logic nonstop you'd always get the most information possible in your raw file, which is the same as exposing perfectly to the right. You could even adapt this further to prioritize skin tones, ie "did I lose information in those colors that are skin tones" as a benchmark - that would expose skin tones to the right.
I new this function, but never know how to use it correctly, thank you for sharing!
My pleasure
wow this is very helpful. Thank you for sharing this.
No worries Peter!
What metering mode do you use though, I mean did you have experience with different metering modes and zebras 109%? I know for video would be best to have 70% for saving skin-tones!
Just got myself a 10 years old sony a7r and found zebra in the settings. That's how I ended up watching this video. Thank you.
Thank you back for the tip! what about the highlight metering mode, is that something that could help you? If you think this one is mirroring to dog you can still easily come back with the metering by using the wheel of sight on the camera for for example +0.3 or 0.6 is something what I’m using all the time
Yes, i knew about this feature and I think is a must-have in Sony cameras cause the histogram is not very precise at all. I hope more people use this function correctly in taking photos and talk about it in many videos like this, so sony can improve this function for us. 109+ with raw files is not enough because most of the time if you start to see some zebra in your files doesn't mean that the whites are clipped. So it is definitely a great function that I enable in all my Sony cameras because helps me to expose to the right of the histogram (where the sensor record most of the data), but I hope one day to see more levels (up to 120 maybe?) so we can find the perfect spot between overexposed and clipped highlights. Anyway NEVER underexpose an image. My best and thank you for your videos.
Incredible Tipp, dialed it in immediately on my 6600 🙏🏼
Great explanation, very usefull. Thanks!
Very useful tip. Thanks.
It helps me a lot because everyone is so critical about perfect looking photos
The spazz on any imperfections in your photos
Mitch thank you very good and something to go and play with now
Hey Mitch great video, thanks for sharing. How did you arrive at 109 for the upper limit rather than 105 or 110?
109 is the max. I tested it, shooting raw and comparing the zebras with the overexposed parts in lightroom.
@@MitchLally Thats awesome. thanks for this
Always helpful this kind of info. Thanks.
Living on the edge the demo camera running with 4% battery 😅
Very cool thanks! Didn't know you could do this.
How to WiFi network Sony A7 IV contact for PC ?
Bro... So helpful. Thanks!
what do you recommend for zebra lower level when filming in standard mode with no picture profile? 100+? please help!
Inwould just eyeball my exposure since in standard profile there’s no highlight recovery really. I think 100 would be it though. Maybe 99 just to be safe!
Can i use the same settings on my Sony a5100?
You can change your metering mode to (expose) highlights, is another way if you don’t want all those Zebras.
As far as I know that prevents clipping highlights, but doesn't expose to the right. So doing this would come with the danger of underexposing if you shot, say, backlit subjects, wouldn't it?
Thanks
A bit confused here. I've always used zebras at 100 and my photos have come out perfectly well. Also using my eyes on the scene and looking at the histogram as well. I thought that set at 100 was correct. Now, I'm a bit confused, because I can't understand the difference between the two 😕
I explained the difference in the video.
100 = highlight limit of the resulting jpg
109 = highlight limit of the raw file
@@MitchLally Thanks Mitch. I didn't get it, my bad.
Great vid
Hi Mitch. Your page and tips on photography has helped me learn a lot. Picked a new Sony A74. What would be your recommendations of lens. Purpose: Casual photography, travel, family and children, landscape. Thanks. Big fan from India.
Tamron 17-28 f2.8 or 28-75 f2.8 this amazing lenses. I also advise you to take look at the lenses from Viltrox and Samyang (Rokinon). Perhaps the most budget option and very high quality!
@@justduit1879 Hi, Thanks. Wanted to take ur opinion on tamron 35-150mm. I know it's a heavy lens and I want a light gear too, but the focal range is tempting. Should I take the plunge or? And for travel what other range/lens would be your recommendations. I love 35mm prime too.
Sony 24-105mm f4 G OSS