I've always been too careful about maintaining the right ISO because I thought the presence of noise would make or break my photos, so I ended up sacrificing a good shutter speed/ aperture for that, and thus ended up wondering why my photos came out blurry or not correctly exposed. thank you so much for this super helpful video!
@@smarthousetech8593 I will say, this is easier to make look intentional with a full frame sensor camera than a crop sensor or mobile level sensor. You can push a full frame to 12,500 and have perfectly acceptable photos. My old Nikon D7100 was great, but looked really rough above 3,200.
@@smarthousetech8593 Yes I sometimes like a bit of noise in my favourite mode Black/White, it gives it a bit of atmosphere, especial military enactments,& dress.
I have been taking photos for a long time and I always like learning a new technique. The fact of how easy this was to understand and not overwhelming is a serious talent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with thw world!
Thank you. Many years ago I shot everything manually and was totally familiar with my camera. Many years later I got a new camera and got lazy, using auto for everything. You helped me get back on track.
Your conceptualization of photography is refreshing and concise Pat. The clarity of your presentation fits with your lifestyle and daily goals. I admire you for that!
In the film days we focus manually using hyperfocal focus/distance and depth of field for tack sharp imagery. I am doing the same technique doing focus compensation taking advantage of limitless digital shots.
What happens when using a zoom lens, for example, 24-70? Do you do your calculations based on the most extended focal length of the lens? Or whatever focal length using at that particular time? For example, I’m zoomed in to 35mm. Do I do 3x the length you’re at? OR 3x the total focal length of the lens (70mm). No one has clarified this principle for zoom lenses.
For still objects, it's simple. A tripod solves most of the problem. It allows you to use the lower ISO, longer shutter speed, and whatever aperture size is called for. A good tripod goes a long way and it's not an item any serious landscape or studio (and might be other) photographers would spare. Just don't be lazy ;)
sigh.. a tripod isn't helping me at all. My photos are all fuzzy and grainy. Total noob here tho. I have NO idea what Pat is talking about. 55mm what? 200 mm what? I have a lot of respect for those of you who have managed to cram all of this data on how to take decent photos into your brains. Impressive. Welp, back to re-reading the confusing and nonsensical digital camera manual I guess.
@@APG-CodeWarrior try stabilising your tripod by setting it on firm surface. many tripods have a hook for hanging heavy things which also helps. use remote to trigger the shutter. lastly, wait til the wind calms. no reason you can't get a sharp picture ;)
You're an amazing teacher. I have been in photography for a couple decades....(with a hiatus somewhere in there). I too, was over-cautious with ISO settings fearing noise. No longer! You're absolutely right....sharpness over noise is best. It's a GAME CHANGER with moving targets (macros). I have MORE keepers now. THANK YOU!
As far as gear goes. My favorite picture of all time was taken on a Nikon D50 with a older 50mm AF lens in the dreaded mid day sunlight. This is a $100 set up. The picture came out razor sharp. My point more important than spending money on expensive gear is get to know your current camera and learn it's strengths and weaknesses. For example this same D50 I wouldn't take it out at night because it's limited by it's ISO but mid day in sunlight? It's money all day. All of my cameras have their own strengths and weaknesses. The D5000, D3200, D700, D7100, D3, Canon 5D mark 2 all of them can provide what you're looking for. My daily driver the camera I carry around is the Nikon D5300 @ 24 MP It's compact and all I'll ever need. I like not worry about damaging a 5k camera at the beach. I slapped a 50mm 1.8 DX Prime on it. My advice is to learn to shoot in bad lighting first like I did. ahand held no tripod challenge yourself. That way Day time or portrait photography is a piece of cake. Or you can go out and spend 8k on an expensive mirrorless camera and let it cut your meat for you but what's the fun in that?
Man thx for this tip. I never realized why some of my photos were still blurry when shooting wide open at 1.8f (old camera body) even though I was dead on the eyes for focus but was still somewhat out of "focus". It's so minimal but very noticeable at the same time and it's very distracting. I'm a dad and primarily using my old D5000 to shoot my son. I'm shooting indoors a lot so low light is what it is.. heard great things about this Nikkor budget prime lense but was getting blurry photos, now I know why.
shooting at the widest aperture is never the best thing to do if you want sharp images. the sharpest point a lens will be is generally between f8 and f16
I have been limited by this since I got a DSLR. I always prioritized low ISO over everything (trying to avoid noise), not realizing that my kit lens at 1/5 ~ 3.5 ~ 200 would never be sharp. A great tip to add to this video is to buy a lens that opens wide enough to allow for proper exposure at higher shutter speeds.
I have my kit lens I use for general photography but if I'm doing anything like studio I switch to my 50mm f1.8 - it's manual which is fine, and my camera is a crop sensor so the nifty 50 has an effective focal length of 80mm but that is also fine 'cos every shot I make with that lens is super crispy.
Yeah I’m a complete noob but when I saw some guides and lens reviews it seemed like on canon RP up to like 800-900 is basically no loss in sharpness really. Or so it’s seems.
Something to add when shooting at the minimum shutter speed, is to shoot on burst. For sony with IBIS, I usually go a little below your recommended. For instance I will shoot at a minimum 1/15th on my 20mm at do a 3-4 shot burst. 2-4 shots are usually unusable, so I would never trust this on single shot.
One thing you didn't mention in achieving sharpness, is to set the aperture to the lens's sweet spot, which is somewhere in the middle and so avoid using the lens wide open or closed down. Of course, if you need the speed of the lens for low light then this may be unavoidable.
yeah usually between f8 and f16 will be the sharpest apertures you can get. but all of this really depends on the shot youre trying to get. sharpness isnt an inherent feature to a great photo. ive won thousands of dollars and got tons of commercial contracts shooting fashion with a slow shutter speed while using off camera flash. theres no tip to achieve sharp photos everytime because the conditions of every image is different
@@patkay If you are using a full frame lens on a crop sensor would you have to take that into consideration? a 70-200 on nikon is a 105-300 so does it mean shutter speed have to be 1/320, or 1/640, or 1/1000 for 3 times????
@@MissHitAllTheTime If using a full frame lens on a smaller sensor, it works sort of like using a full frame sensor but with cropping. I’d say yes, you need shutter speeds according to the smaller sensor equivalent, just as you would if you crop a full frame image.
Love your videos! I also think it would be helpful for most of us as visual learners, if you showed these great nuggets of information as you apply them on your camera!!
Wow, what a brilliant tutorial, I wish I had come across you sooner. Clearly spoken and totally understood your teaching and where you are coming from. I think I have found my full time teacher.
THANK YOU for this! by far the best description I’ve come across since getting my first DSLR this year. Subscribed and cannot wait to watch more of your content.
Thank you for the video. Question: when you are shooting a family (example 4 people) do you use single point focus or auto focus? What do you aim at? Because there are multiple ‘eyes’ in this situation?
Speaking personally, I use single point and lock onto someone who's the most central of the group. I also close down my aperture a bit, usually at least f4. Between the two, I get very good results with a balanced focus of the family.
Wow, use ISO last like a gain control was huge. Makes me wonder how much more I missed in my "Basic Photography Training" You are so clear and precise I hope you have a course available. "Looking Now"
Your video was tactfully sharp with all of your explanations. You are a really easy teacher to learn from. Thanks so much for your video. Have a wonderful day.
I used to have a Nikon D80 and I would say that the ISO was much more of an issue for me on that camera. Photos would look so noisy and the loss in dynamic range was quite dramatic too. Newer cameras are far better at higher ISOs but on older ones it was much more of an issue to balance the grain and softness from the ISO and the blurriness of a longer exposure.
@@omgtyshotthat What do you mean the best? ISO 100 was definitely the best (as on most cameras). Anything above 400 was noticeably noisy and above 800 it got bad imo. The highest I shot was 1000 and it was fine for producing interesting pictures but in terms of sharpness, any fine detail was gone.
Good tips. I will add, use a great tripod and remote or timed shutter release. Set up a back button to focus. Lock the mirror. Use great glass and expose correctly. If in doubt, ETTR (slightly over expose) because they're will be less noise if you bring light down vs. trying to brighten a photo. Of course ALWAYS shoot RAW or Raw+JPEG at the highest quality setting. Pay attention to your white balance as well and adjust for the conditions e.g. sunrise vs daylight vs inside light, etc. For several reasons it is a best practice to focus your cameras exposure meter on the blue sky or the color green if shooting things like flowers. Exposure bracketing and focus stacking are some other techniques that the pro's use. I'm almost finished with a great book called Understanding Exposure and I realize how much there is to learn. Don't think it's just a few of these tips and you are all set. This poster has years of experience- still his tips have merit but there is still much more to it.
@@MOAB-UT yea well it matters to me. you referred to 'the poster' in an ambiguous fashion. as an aside, i don't need the tips; i've been shooting for over 40 years.
@@daktarioskarvannederhosen2568 You are right then. For what it's worth I was referring to the OP and not myself. I have been doing many things for a long time- not quite 40 years but I still like to learn from others. Also technology changes. I am open to learn. If on the other hand you know everything, good for you.
@@MOAB-UT your original mentioning of 'the poster' consists of no 'OP' other than your self (since you are the originator of this thread). the person or entity posting video to youtube is not typically referred to as 'the poster' (where that phrase, within its linguistic contextuality, strongly deductively implies a reference to a textual post. hence my original request for clarification as to whom you were referring to, met with your very american self-righteous reply to the effect that it doesn't matter (apparently you determine what matters to others atop your inefficient grammar).
Something not mentioned here, is whether or not you are panning your camera with a subject or remaining stationary and 'trapping' a subject moving in your frame. The PLETHORA of continuous focus modes on modern cameras makes these tasks super confusing, so I personally prefer the method I always used with film and that is to pre set a focus trap for any moving subject whether or not im stationary or panning. This only works for subjects moving in a horizontal trajectory - unless you of course set a wide enough depth of field with a high apature number in order to "trap" subjects moving towards or away from you. I find focus trapping infinitely more useful a method in situations like street photography or weddings, where I can pre set a focus distance and then not worry at all about things being in focus - I just need to know at what distances my subjects will be in focus, get in position, lift my camera and shoot. Its way less stressful and I can just concentrate on light and composition.
You have to admit though, the newer mirrorless cameras are making getting a sharp image a lot easier with their improved autofocus and subject tracking.
for sure; the newer cameras definitely make the whole focus thing easier, leaving you to concentrate on other things. i honestly don't even use cameras without Sony's new general subject tracking stuff now because it's that good
Definitely subscribing to watch more of your videos. I traded my camera for a canon 5d and suddenly I feel like I have no clue what I’m doing in terms of setting my shutter and aperture. This video helped.
As a photographer, if I may add, I think camera handling is important too. When I was a new photographer, I often have blur photos even on good camera settings. I discovered that my handling is not good ang my hands are shaky. 😊
@@MOAB-UT Yes. But not all the time you carry a tripod. Handling is really important. It means even if i shoot 1/200 of a second, I can still get not perfectly sharp pics if my handling is not good
@@ArtandLes I hear you and I get it. But if you generally have shaky hands it's probably worth the extra effort to carry along a tripod a sturdy one is best with four legs but any tripod is better than no tripod and hang something underneath it that partially sits on the ground so that it can keep it even more steady. To your main point I agree proper handling of the camera elbows in hands close to chest is very important when you can't use a tripod.
@@MOAB-UT yes. As i've said on my first comment, I solved the issue by proper camera handling. I only need tripod on landscapes and night photography. When I was a beginner even 1/200 i still get imperfect shots. Proper handling makes a difference. 😊👍
This is very good teaching, many years ago, they never teach us like this way, you have to shoot many frames as possible specially with films to getting the way you wanted, and hope you’re getting right,, today any body can take a good pictures,, I have seen many video of people just holding the camera and shoot. Thanks for sharing!
I was a professional photographer before. You have really brought out some good points. Very helpful to new photographers. I’m many tines thinking about what I’m shooting & is depth of field important vs the shutter speed. Thanks for your video.
Very helpful, but one question. Instead of switching between single focus and continuous focus, why don't I just set to continuous focus even for landscape or other non-moving subjects. Since my subject isn't moving, the continuous focus will not change. Is there some downside to this approach? Great video by the way.
in modern cameras, there's actually zero downside to doing this and it's actually what i do 90% of the time. the only reason why i suggest the traditional way is that some older cameras have a hard time locking on in general and it can be frustrating having your focus hunt so much for every photo you take. but if your camera doesn't do that, then go for it!
Actually there is a big downside. You won't be able to RECOMPOSE your shot which is what nearly ALL pro's do. For example if you set a back button for focus (never the same as the shutter- bad), then you can aim at the landscape, get focus, release and recompose the shot (frame the first shot (focus) then move your camera around to reposition and get the ideal shot. You must NOT move the camera forward or back- side to side and up and down is fine.) If you are set to continual focus, it will re-adjust to the landscape which "could" easily put your main subject out of focus. It's very easy to change this setting. Do it 100 times for practice and you will own it- promise!
@@MOAB-UTI’ve read many RUclips explanations trying to explain the same thing, but yours actually made sense to me. Thank you so much for your insight, this is way better than trying to manually set the focus area using the camera’s d-pad.
@@Taigrr854 Glad to help. I use a tripod and remote relase (cable/button.) If you don't have that you can set up a delayed shutter so you press and a second or two later, it snaps- a brief delay. That way your finger pushing does not cause much blur. With a slow shutter speed (e.g., lower light or going for a cool light trail effect or night photography), you will almost always get blur if you push on the camera without using delayed release mode or cable release. I also take several pics, especially on images I really want to nail down. No matter how good you think you did, when you go to edit, any issue can have issues. Even wind, light, shadows, etc., can make a well set up picture look less then perfect. It's amazing to me however how hand-held cell phones seem to nail every shot.
I think my 5DSR is an exception to this rule. I get that little bit unsharpness pretty much no matter what unless it's on tripod, with no wind, and no vibration in the ground, and with a remote.. heard it has to do with the very high megapixel count on a standard full frame sensor, in combination with a physical shutter.
What often gets overlooked and for many years I didn't appreciate the importance of, is the quality of light. You can have the best lens but if the direction of light is off, such as with an on camera forward facing flash, you won't see any texture and it naturally doesn't look sharp. There's a lot to be said for side lighting if you want to show off how good your L lens is. And also an off camera flash allows you to freeze the action for maximum sharpness.
Such a fresh point of view and very helpful... We subscribed, but frustrated that many times the only way to find educated professional photographers willing to share their skill is by the luck of a random you tube recommendation.
what about crop sensor and MFT? the 16mm in APSC equal to 24mm and in MFT is 32mm. do we have to set the shutter based on the 35mm film equivalent? or base on the lens focal length written on the APSC or MFT lens?
You are awesome! Theres so much awesome information here. Your content (at least this video) isn't a sell, just phenomenal information from one artist to another. Thank You.
Rule of thirds noted. And this has just helped me nailed sharpness. Cos I am buying no new lenses until I get the basics right and I shoot in FF these days.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! I watched soo many videos and THIS ONE made me understand it easier cause this shit is overwhelmingly confusing trying to figure out the perfect formula for each setting.
Simply stabilizing the camera by using a tripod or monopod can help as well. Where possible one of these should be used. Sharpness can be dialed up, in body, on many mid range cameras.
Thank you for these tips. I own a full-size dSLR Sony A7iii with the 24-105mm kit lens -- played around enough with it that I can get extremely sharp images in Aperture-priority mode with the largest aperture that the kit lens affords. My 'expertise' on settings for tracking a moving subject on the other hand is a work in progress. Mainly I need to know if you can suggest a good setting for tracking a subject while using a timer? also have a remote control to trigger the camera.
What is your opinion about which shutter mechanism (Electronic, EFC, Mechanical) to use under what circumstances, for tack sharp images. Or do you shoot in mechanical shutter mode only?
Outstandingly good presentation. Plus a bonus of a Fellow Aussie. Thank you for giving me a new focus point within my photography. ( gee. That sounded pretty good ehh). You really make a tutorial a pleasure to watch. I’ll be back .stay safe.
Also to add if you are shooting on a tripod and have a lens with image stabilization don't forget to turn it off. Its an easy one to forget even for seasoned shooters going back and forth between hand held and tripod.
I’m just starting photography with an RP and USM 24-105mm and I feel like mastering shutter speed, aperture, plus where to focus is very hard to master and makes big difference. Also learning angles and lightning. Probs oh makes or breaks 😢
Hello there. Thank you for such good info. Quick question. I was taking pictures in low light at home with a fixed lense, 35mm. The subject was a bottle of wine on a table against a wall. I sat 10 feet away and took the photo on a tripod. I focused on the bottle. The letters were decently sharp on the bottle. But then I moved closer with the tripod and took it at 3 feet away. Again I focused on the bottle and the letters were perfectly crisp. All my camera settings were the same on both shots. Why the sharpness difference?
It's because the bottle is curved. When you're far away the curved parts of the bottle are further away from the lens, compared to when you're closer. There's sort of a plane that'll be focused on, but the when you're far away that's not wide enough to get all of the bottle in focus. At least that's how I think it work 😁
@@MadiHun Thanks for your thoughts on that. It seems to do it with square objects as well . It’s the letters especially on an object or label that become less sharp.
Absolutely thrilled to bits to finally have a clearer idea of how to set optimum camera settings for sharpness. I have listened to many experts including Serge Ramelli and Tim Shields. But your simple presentation in this video is perfect AND SIMPLE to understand and remember. Setting the ISO last is not something I have been doing! So thank you for this.
Thank you so much!!!🙏🏽 you have been more informative than any professors I have ever had. I appreciate how you take your time to break it down detail but detail. Thank you!🙏🏽
I have an Emd 10 mark 2. I have trouble shooting short track speed skating. They are moving so fast, I find focus is distorted and keep 😊subject in frame. I have tried what you proposed but still difficult. Low light, fast moving, focus and without high ISO graininess.
In Potrait most the of time should we consider subject is still right? Because model isnt moving or should i consider moving and follow moving object rule according to u?
I'm currently using Canon 5Diii with the 50mm f1.8 STM, yet many of my shots are still blurry. I'm thinking it might be due to the fact that I focus on the eyes and them recompose. I suspect that when I recompose I'm placing my figure out of focus.
Hi greetings from india.... I d like to ask one que, you spoke abt ss which should be x 3 times of focal length. So why you said in case of 16mm lense use 1/16 of second and why in case of 200 mm you said use 1/600 ss why it was minimum in minimum focal length but why not it was minimum in 200 mm case ( ex. 1/200 ss) Thanking you
I was wondering about this aspect. I want to upgrade my camera, but I don't have the budget for better lenses right now. I was wondering if the body improves the overall quality of the images even if you don't change the lenses. Upgrading to 6400 from a6000.
I have a Canon Rebel T6. So I can still get a very sharp image with this body as long as I have a high quality lens? Any recommendations for high quality lenses that for this T6
Thank you so much for this video. It is the best video I have seen on this subject matter. You presented it in a simple concise way, Making it so much easier to understand.
Hi, need a little help shooting indoor basketball. My images are either blur or too grainy. Different lighting in every high school. I have the nikon d5500 and using a 18.300 nikon lens. Do I need to upgrade my camera or lens. I've done outdoor sports and I've taken great pictures. I just can't figure out this indoor volley ball and basket ball.
Hei friend. thanx for a such learing to shooting correct image. But i have one question. how to shooting large group off ppl. They are still. not moving. Can you please give a answer.
My previous dslr was a canon 1000D twin lens kit, 18-55 with IS & 75-300 without IS. I started taking photos of my sons rugby games and even though rugby is a fast moving sport the shutter speed was generally set at 1/125 shooting with the 75-300. I consider myself on the amateur side of photography and up until that point had been taking photos of reasonably still things. So I was surprised when taking these photos they were sharp at that shutter speed. Another thing it's very rare I edit my photos as when I do in my eyes they look bad so I try to compose them right and keep changing the settings. Like for one 80minute game of rugby I took 300-400 photos & got about 5-7 great shots. So this shows even with the kit lenses you can, with practice, take good photos. This year I updated to the canon F50 mirrorless again twin lens kit and wow couldn't believe how much the technology with the lenses have changed. But one important thing I've learned just have fun & take a heap of photos.
3 года назад+1
6D Mark II here + 50mm 1.8 ... Pretty good video mate. PS: I loooove that accent and color of your voice Greetings from Serbia 🇷🇸
Hi Pat, thank you for this video, it was quite an eye opener. I really need some help - a beginner in the field! I want to start my RUclips channel on beauty and eventually lifestyle and I feel I should go with the Sony ZV E10 or the Sony A6400. Is there any other camera you’d recommend? If not, I’m confused if I should go with the Kit Lens or should I get a 50mm for my beauty videos and another lens for lifestyle (but I don’t know which and budget is a little limited too). Any recommendations please?
First time watching you. Really impressed how you explained the basics of photography. Definitely i’m subscribing your channel, I’ll go right now and check more content! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I just need help setting up my a7siii for video at gyms please and thank you, lighting is sort of bright and some areas dark. 35mm 1.4FE and ND filter I think it’s called
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I've always been too careful about maintaining the right ISO because I thought the presence of noise would make or break my photos, so I ended up sacrificing a good shutter speed/ aperture for that, and thus ended up wondering why my photos came out blurry or not correctly exposed. thank you so much for this super helpful video!
Yeah sometimes a nice film grain look can add something to a photo
@@smarthousetech8593 I will say, this is easier to make look intentional with a full frame sensor camera than a crop sensor or mobile level sensor. You can push a full frame to 12,500 and have perfectly acceptable photos. My old Nikon D7100 was great, but looked really rough above 3,200.
@@smarthousetech8593 Yes I sometimes like a bit of noise in my favourite mode Black/White, it gives it a bit of atmosphere, especial military enactments,& dress.
Same here!
Thanks just starting photography and I need tips thanks so much
I have been taking photos for a long time and I always like learning a new technique. The fact of how easy this was to understand and not overwhelming is a serious talent. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with thw world!
Thank you. Many years ago I shot everything manually and was totally familiar with my camera. Many years later I got a new camera and got lazy, using auto for everything. You helped me get back on track.
Your conceptualization of photography is refreshing and concise Pat. The clarity of your presentation fits with your lifestyle and daily goals. I admire you for that!
thank you for the kind words! :)
In the film days we focus manually using hyperfocal focus/distance and depth of field for tack sharp imagery. I am doing the same technique doing focus compensation taking advantage of limitless digital shots.
The clearest understanding of the photographic process I have ever gotten from a tutorial video. Very, very helpful. Thank you.
What happens when using a zoom lens, for example, 24-70? Do you do your calculations based on the most extended focal length of the lens? Or whatever focal length using at that particular time? For example, I’m zoomed in to 35mm. Do I do 3x the length you’re at? OR 3x the total focal length of the lens (70mm). No one has clarified this principle for zoom lenses.
The one you're shooting at....
For still objects, it's simple. A tripod solves most of the problem. It allows you to use the lower ISO, longer shutter speed, and whatever aperture size is called for. A good tripod goes a long way and it's not an item any serious landscape or studio (and might be other) photographers would spare. Just don't be lazy ;)
For most DSLR users, tripod usage is a must….or….a monopod! Good point!
I use my tripod on a regular basis
sigh.. a tripod isn't helping me at all. My photos are all fuzzy and grainy. Total noob here tho. I have NO idea what Pat is talking about. 55mm what? 200 mm what? I have a lot of respect for those of you who have managed to cram all of this data on how to take decent photos into your brains. Impressive. Welp, back to re-reading the confusing and nonsensical digital camera manual I guess.
@@APG-CodeWarrior try stabilising your tripod by setting it on firm surface. many tripods have a hook for hanging heavy things which also helps. use remote to trigger the shutter. lastly, wait til the wind calms. no reason you can't get a sharp picture ;)
Yo, I used this camera for like a year, and honestly, it never let me down! 💯
It’s not the fanciest out there, but for small channels? Perfect!
You're an amazing teacher.
I have been in photography for a couple decades....(with a hiatus somewhere in there). I too, was over-cautious with ISO settings fearing noise.
No longer! You're absolutely right....sharpness over noise is best. It's a GAME CHANGER with moving targets (macros). I have MORE keepers now. THANK YOU!
As far as gear goes. My favorite picture of all time was taken on a Nikon D50 with a older 50mm AF lens in the dreaded mid day sunlight. This is a $100 set up. The picture came out razor sharp. My point more important than spending money on expensive gear is get to know your current camera and learn it's strengths and weaknesses. For example this same D50 I wouldn't take it out at night because it's limited by it's ISO but mid day in sunlight? It's money all day. All of my cameras have their own strengths and weaknesses. The D5000, D3200, D700, D7100, D3, Canon 5D mark 2 all of them can provide what you're looking for. My daily driver the camera I carry around is the Nikon D5300 @ 24 MP It's compact and all I'll ever need. I like not worry about damaging a 5k camera at the beach. I slapped a 50mm 1.8 DX Prime on it. My advice is to learn to shoot in bad lighting first like I did. ahand held no tripod challenge yourself. That way Day time or portrait photography is a piece of cake. Or you can go out and spend 8k on an expensive mirrorless camera and let it cut your meat for you but what's the fun in that?
Man thx for this tip. I never realized why some of my photos were still blurry when shooting wide open at 1.8f (old camera body) even though I was dead on the eyes for focus but was still somewhat out of "focus". It's so minimal but very noticeable at the same time and it's very distracting. I'm a dad and primarily using my old D5000 to shoot my son. I'm shooting indoors a lot so low light is what it is.. heard great things about this Nikkor budget prime lense but was getting blurry photos, now I know why.
shooting at the widest aperture is never the best thing to do if you want sharp images. the sharpest point a lens will be is generally between f8 and f16
I have been limited by this since I got a DSLR. I always prioritized low ISO over everything (trying to avoid noise), not realizing that my kit lens at 1/5 ~ 3.5 ~ 200 would never be sharp. A great tip to add to this video is to buy a lens that opens wide enough to allow for proper exposure at higher shutter speeds.
I have my kit lens I use for general photography but if I'm doing anything like studio I switch to my 50mm f1.8 - it's manual which is fine, and my camera is a crop sensor so the nifty 50 has an effective focal length of 80mm but that is also fine 'cos every shot I make with that lens is super crispy.
Yeah I’m a complete noob but when I saw some guides and lens reviews it seemed like on canon RP up to like 800-900 is basically no loss in sharpness really. Or so it’s seems.
1/5 at f3.5 can absolutely be sharp if you have a tripod
Something to add when shooting at the minimum shutter speed, is to shoot on burst. For sony with IBIS, I usually go a little below your recommended. For instance I will shoot at a minimum 1/15th on my 20mm at do a 3-4 shot burst. 2-4 shots are usually unusable, so I would never trust this on single shot.
One thing you didn't mention in achieving sharpness, is to set the aperture to the lens's sweet spot, which is somewhere in the middle and so avoid using the lens wide open or closed down. Of course, if you need the speed of the lens for low light then this may be unavoidable.
yeah usually between f8 and f16 will be the sharpest apertures you can get. but all of this really depends on the shot youre trying to get. sharpness isnt an inherent feature to a great photo. ive won thousands of dollars and got tons of commercial contracts shooting fashion with a slow shutter speed while using off camera flash. theres no tip to achieve sharp photos everytime because the conditions of every image is different
@@zip5644 where did you go to get access to these types of contests?
Thanks for this! Just what I needed to intentionally make my photos as sharp as I'd like, which I've been struggling with a bit.
hopefully the tips help! cheers for watching :)
@@patkay If you are using a full frame lens on a crop sensor would you have to take that into consideration? a 70-200 on nikon is a 105-300 so does it mean shutter speed have to be 1/320, or 1/640, or 1/1000 for 3 times????
@@MissHitAllTheTime If using a full frame lens on a smaller sensor, it works sort of like using a full frame sensor but with cropping. I’d say yes, you need shutter speeds according to the smaller sensor equivalent, just as you would if you crop a full frame image.
Love your videos! I also think it would be helpful for most of us as visual learners, if you showed these great nuggets of information as you apply them on your camera!!
I agree Matt
Thanks Pat! Please keep making these vids, I keep learning with every one!
This really helped me,as I’ve just started photography in the last few months.Thankyou and have a great day 👍
thanks for watching!
Wow, what a brilliant tutorial, I wish I had come across you sooner. Clearly spoken and totally understood your teaching and where you are coming from. I think I have found my full time teacher.
THANK YOU for this! by far the best description I’ve come across since getting my first DSLR this year. Subscribed and cannot wait to watch more of your content.
Agree 100%, i just wasted a couple hours of differing people telling me about what to take and not HOW to take it. Thank you Pat. sincerely new sub
Thank you for the video. Question: when you are shooting a family (example 4 people) do you use single point focus or auto focus? What do you aim at? Because there are multiple ‘eyes’ in this situation?
Speaking personally, I use single point and lock onto someone who's the most central of the group. I also close down my aperture a bit, usually at least f4. Between the two, I get very good results with a balanced focus of the family.
Wow, use ISO last like a gain control was huge. Makes me wonder how much more I missed in my "Basic Photography Training" You are so clear and precise I hope you have a course available. "Looking Now"
Your video was tactfully sharp with all of your explanations. You are a really easy teacher to learn from. Thanks so much for your video. Have a wonderful day.
I used to have a Nikon D80 and I would say that the ISO was much more of an issue for me on that camera. Photos would look so noisy and the loss in dynamic range was quite dramatic too. Newer cameras are far better at higher ISOs but on older ones it was much more of an issue to balance the grain and softness from the ISO and the blurriness of a longer exposure.
Did you ever find out which was the best number
@@omgtyshotthat What do you mean the best? ISO 100 was definitely the best (as on most cameras). Anything above 400 was noticeably noisy and above 800 it got bad imo. The highest I shot was 1000 and it was fine for producing interesting pictures but in terms of sharpness, any fine detail was gone.
Straight to the point, easy to understand,this channel should deserve a million subscribers.
aw thank you!
Good tips. I will add, use a great tripod and remote or timed shutter release. Set up a back button to focus. Lock the mirror. Use great glass and expose correctly. If in doubt, ETTR (slightly over expose) because they're will be less noise if you bring light down vs. trying to brighten a photo. Of course ALWAYS shoot RAW or Raw+JPEG at the highest quality setting. Pay attention to your white balance as well and adjust for the conditions e.g. sunrise vs daylight vs inside light, etc. For several reasons it is a best practice to focus your cameras exposure meter on the blue sky or the color green if shooting things like flowers. Exposure bracketing and focus stacking are some other techniques that the pro's use. I'm almost finished with a great book called Understanding Exposure and I realize how much there is to learn. Don't think it's just a few of these tips and you are all set. This poster has years of experience- still his tips have merit but there is still much more to it.
which 'poster'?
@@daktarioskarvannederhosen2568 It doesn't really matter. Just follow the tips and you'll do fine. Or don't your call.
@@MOAB-UT yea well it matters to me. you referred to 'the poster' in an ambiguous fashion.
as an aside, i don't need the tips; i've been shooting for over 40 years.
@@daktarioskarvannederhosen2568 You are right then. For what it's worth I was referring to the OP and not myself. I have been doing many things for a long time- not quite 40 years but I still like to learn from others. Also technology changes. I am open to learn. If on the other hand you know everything, good for you.
@@MOAB-UT your original mentioning of 'the poster' consists of no 'OP' other than your self (since you are the originator of this thread).
the person or entity posting video to youtube is not typically referred to as 'the poster' (where that phrase, within its linguistic contextuality, strongly deductively implies a reference to a textual post.
hence my original request for clarification as to whom you were referring to, met with your very american self-righteous reply to the effect that it doesn't matter (apparently you determine what matters to others atop your inefficient grammar).
Something not mentioned here, is whether or not you are panning your camera with a subject or remaining stationary and 'trapping' a subject moving in your frame. The PLETHORA of continuous focus modes on modern cameras makes these tasks super confusing, so I personally prefer the method I always used with film and that is to pre set a focus trap for any moving subject whether or not im stationary or panning. This only works for subjects moving in a horizontal trajectory - unless you of course set a wide enough depth of field with a high apature number in order to "trap" subjects moving towards or away from you. I find focus trapping infinitely more useful a method in situations like street photography or weddings, where I can pre set a focus distance and then not worry at all about things being in focus - I just need to know at what distances my subjects will be in focus, get in position, lift my camera and shoot. Its way less stressful and I can just concentrate on light and composition.
You have to admit though, the newer mirrorless cameras are making getting a sharp image a lot easier with their improved autofocus and subject tracking.
for sure; the newer cameras definitely make the whole focus thing easier, leaving you to concentrate on other things. i honestly don't even use cameras without Sony's new general subject tracking stuff now because it's that good
Easily the best video i have watched on getting sharp images! Nice work Pat!
This is such an enormous wealth of fundamentals, clearly and perfectly exemplified..highly uplifting and inspiring presentation..
Definitely subscribing to watch more of your videos. I traded my camera for a canon 5d and suddenly I feel like I have no clue what I’m doing in terms of setting my shutter and aperture. This video helped.
As a photographer, if I may add, I think camera handling is important too. When I was a new photographer, I often have blur photos even on good camera settings. I discovered that my handling is not good ang my hands are shaky. 😊
Tripod!
@@MOAB-UT Yes. But not all the time you carry a tripod. Handling is really important. It means even if i shoot 1/200 of a second, I can still get not perfectly sharp pics if my handling is not good
@@ArtandLes I hear you and I get it. But if you generally have shaky hands it's probably worth the extra effort to carry along a tripod a sturdy one is best with four legs but any tripod is better than no tripod and hang something underneath it that partially sits on the ground so that it can keep it even more steady. To your main point I agree proper handling of the camera elbows in hands close to chest is very important when you can't use a tripod.
@@MOAB-UT yes. As i've said on my first comment, I solved the issue by proper camera handling. I only need tripod on landscapes and night photography. When I was a beginner even 1/200 i still get imperfect shots. Proper handling makes a difference. 😊👍
@@ArtandLes Thanks.
Just saw this video for the first time and I am impressed. I look forward to watching of Pat's work.
I have a d3500 and I do a lot of outdoor sports for my kids. I currently use the kit lens. What other lens would you recommend as an upgrade?
This is very good teaching, many years ago, they never teach us like this way, you have to shoot many frames as possible specially with films to getting the way you wanted, and hope you’re getting right,, today any body can take a good pictures,, I have seen many video of people just holding the camera and shoot. Thanks for sharing!
I was a professional photographer before. You have really brought out some good points. Very helpful to new photographers. I’m many tines thinking about what I’m shooting & is depth of field important vs the shutter speed. Thanks for your video.
You explained everything in a very descriptive manner and I understand it ever than before and added the little nugget of sometimes sacrificing ISO
Thank you so much for your knowledge, I can't wait to utilize these settings to get better photos with the Rebel t7
Very helpful, but one question. Instead of switching between single focus and continuous focus, why don't I just set to continuous focus even for landscape or other non-moving subjects. Since my subject isn't moving, the continuous focus will not change. Is there some downside to this approach? Great video by the way.
in modern cameras, there's actually zero downside to doing this and it's actually what i do 90% of the time. the only reason why i suggest the traditional way is that some older cameras have a hard time locking on in general and it can be frustrating having your focus hunt so much for every photo you take. but if your camera doesn't do that, then go for it!
Actually there is a big downside. You won't be able to RECOMPOSE your shot which is what nearly ALL pro's do. For example if you set a back button for focus (never the same as the shutter- bad), then you can aim at the landscape, get focus, release and recompose the shot (frame the first shot (focus) then move your camera around to reposition and get the ideal shot. You must NOT move the camera forward or back- side to side and up and down is fine.) If you are set to continual focus, it will re-adjust to the landscape which "could" easily put your main subject out of focus. It's very easy to change this setting. Do it 100 times for practice and you will own it- promise!
@@MOAB-UTI’ve read many RUclips explanations trying to explain the same thing, but yours actually made sense to me. Thank you so much for your insight, this is way better than trying to manually set the focus area using the camera’s d-pad.
@@Taigrr854 Glad to help. I use a tripod and remote relase (cable/button.) If you don't have that you can set up a delayed shutter so you press and a second or two later, it snaps- a brief delay. That way your finger pushing does not cause much blur. With a slow shutter speed (e.g., lower light or going for a cool light trail effect or night photography), you will almost always get blur if you push on the camera without using delayed release mode or cable release.
I also take several pics, especially on images I really want to nail down. No matter how good you think you did, when you go to edit, any issue can have issues. Even wind, light, shadows, etc., can make a well set up picture look less then perfect. It's amazing to me however how hand-held cell phones seem to nail every shot.
I was always taught to keep iso as low as possible, and with that I often sacrificed SS. Thank you for this video.
Quick question does this also apply for video as well? Or do you have a video I can check out for sharp and clean video? Thanks
I think my 5DSR is an exception to this rule. I get that little bit unsharpness pretty much no matter what unless it's on tripod, with no wind, and no vibration in the ground, and with a remote.. heard it has to do with the very high megapixel count on a standard full frame sensor, in combination with a physical shutter.
What often gets overlooked and for many years I didn't appreciate the importance of, is the quality of light. You can have the best lens but if the direction of light is off, such as with an on camera forward facing flash, you won't see any texture and it naturally doesn't look sharp. There's a lot to be said for side lighting if you want to show off how good your L lens is. And also an off camera flash allows you to freeze the action for maximum sharpness.
Hi. What if you are using a zoom lens and you constantly zoom in or out, would you always adjust the shutter speed depending on the zoom range?
I got a canon 90d with a kit lens atm. I take pictures of my dogs, what settings and lens would you recommend?
Brilliant presentation. All you camera video presenters learn from Pat.
easily explained. great tips. I'm going to reverse my thinking and start with the shutter and aperture first, versus the ISO.
I love how easy you explain things!
glad you understood it 😊
Such a fresh point of view and very helpful... We subscribed, but frustrated that many times the only way to find educated professional photographers willing to share their skill is by the luck of a random you tube recommendation.
what about crop sensor and MFT?
the 16mm in APSC equal to 24mm and in MFT is 32mm.
do we have to set the shutter based on the 35mm film equivalent? or base on the lens focal length written on the APSC or MFT lens?
You are awesome! Theres so much awesome information here. Your content (at least this video) isn't a sell, just phenomenal information from one artist to another. Thank You.
Rule of thirds noted. And this has just helped me nailed sharpness. Cos I am buying no new lenses until I get the basics right and I shoot in FF these days.
Thanks so much for the tips. I have a Canon 80D, and I would LOVE to learn how to keep the "Eye" Subject Auto Focus on? How do I do that? thank you
This is exactly what I needed. Very well thought out yet still authentic. Will be subscribing 🙏
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!
I watched soo many videos and THIS ONE made me understand it easier cause this shit is overwhelmingly confusing trying to figure out the perfect formula for each setting.
Thank you for the information and providing it in an easy to understand way.
my pleasure! thanks for watching :)
Simply stabilizing the camera by using a tripod or monopod can help as well. Where possible one of these should be used. Sharpness can be dialed up, in body, on many mid range cameras.
Thank you for these tips. I own a full-size dSLR Sony A7iii with the 24-105mm kit lens -- played around enough with it that I can get extremely sharp images in Aperture-priority mode with the largest aperture that the kit lens affords. My 'expertise' on settings for tracking a moving subject on the other hand is a work in progress. Mainly I need to know if you can suggest a good setting for tracking a subject while using a timer? also have a remote control to trigger the camera.
Outstanding video! You are pleasing to listen to and watch. This was very helpful..thank you. Clapping from Norfolk, Va.🤗
What is your opinion about which shutter mechanism (Electronic, EFC, Mechanical) to use under what circumstances, for tack sharp images. Or do you shoot in mechanical shutter mode only?
Pat's demeanor and persona is so endearing.
This video is really helpful. I tried this last night especially the minimum shutter for you lens focal length. Ugggggh. So good!
Outstandingly good presentation. Plus a bonus of a Fellow Aussie. Thank you for giving me a new focus point within my photography. ( gee. That sounded pretty good ehh). You really make a tutorial a pleasure to watch. I’ll be back .stay safe.
aye a fellow aussie! cheers for watching mate
Also to add if you are shooting on a tripod and have a lens with image stabilization don't forget to turn it off. Its an easy one to forget even for seasoned shooters going back and forth between hand held and tripod.
totally! although modern cameras have gotten better with this, it still can be an issue for some cameras for sure
Hi, can i ask why you need to turn the image stabilization off on tripod? I’m a beginner and still have a lot to learn. This is new concept for me.
I have a starter camera with 18-135mm lens. What will be the shutter speed when i take photos?
I’m just starting photography with an RP and USM 24-105mm and I feel like mastering shutter speed, aperture, plus where to focus is very hard to master and makes big difference. Also learning angles and lightning. Probs oh makes or breaks 😢
lighting is the most important part of photography. shit light = shit images
I'm new to this channel, but need a refresher. Thank you.
Hello there, just curious if there’s a way to turn off the shutter from changing when I’m zooming in and out using the ring? Thanks
Hello there. Thank you for such good info. Quick question. I was taking pictures in low light at home with a fixed lense, 35mm. The subject was a bottle of wine on a table against a wall. I sat 10 feet away and took the photo on a tripod. I focused on the bottle. The letters were decently sharp on the bottle. But then I moved closer with the tripod and took it at 3 feet away. Again I focused on the bottle and the letters were perfectly crisp. All my camera settings were the same on both shots. Why the sharpness difference?
i have also noticed this
It's because the bottle is curved. When you're far away the curved parts of the bottle are further away from the lens, compared to when you're closer.
There's sort of a plane that'll be focused on, but the when you're far away that's not wide enough to get all of the bottle in focus. At least that's how I think it work 😁
@@MadiHun Thanks for your thoughts on that. It seems to do it with square objects as well . It’s the letters especially on an object or label that become less sharp.
Absolutely thrilled to bits to finally have a clearer idea of how to set optimum camera settings for sharpness. I have listened to many experts including Serge Ramelli and Tim Shields. But your simple presentation in this video is perfect AND SIMPLE to understand and remember. Setting the ISO last is not something I have been doing! So thank you for this.
did Tim get you to buy his course-all those emails! I just bought two great books...watched his free videos though. Limited info. included.
Thank you so much!!!🙏🏽 you have been more informative than any professors I have ever had. I appreciate how you take your time to break it down detail but detail. Thank you!🙏🏽
I have a question. How come some of my photos come out in KB and some In MB? how do I fix that? How do I get all my photos to be in MB
I have an Emd 10 mark 2. I have trouble shooting short track speed skating. They are moving so fast, I find focus is distorted and keep 😊subject in frame. I have tried what you proposed but still difficult. Low light, fast moving, focus and without high ISO graininess.
So would you recommend turning on auto iso on the camera?
In Potrait most the of time should we consider subject is still right? Because model isnt moving or should i consider moving and follow moving object rule according to u?
I'm currently using Canon 5Diii with the 50mm f1.8 STM, yet many of my shots are still blurry. I'm thinking it might be due to the fact that I focus on the eyes and them recompose. I suspect that when I recompose I'm placing my figure out of focus.
Try to increase your aperture to f2.2/2.8
Brilliant video! Thank you. I have also been tied to a fairly fixed ISO and reluctant to increase it, so that my shutter speed is appropriate! 🙏
With speed at 1/500 or 1/1000, f 5.26, on Canon 5D Mark 4 what is ISO you recommend if you try to void noise? Thank you.
what is the best and cheapest, widest angle lens for the Canon 80D? I have the 18-135mm lens but that is not wide enough for what I wanna do.
Thank you so much for your explanation. Is there the possibility of having a written part of your video?
Im using an Old 1000d with yongnou 50mm 1.8 , I get soft images sometimes and okay images sometimes , even I shoot with f 2.8 to 4.
then hopefully if you tweak the things in this video your results will be better!
@@patkay yes I will , Thank you for the lessons
That lens isn’t the best, you should try stopping down at different apertures to check where it gets sharp.
Yes i usually use f2.8 or f4 It gets sharp but sometimes it will miss focus
nice video😊
could you please tell me which lens should i buy for canon 80d . I have 50mm 1.8
I do fashion, portraits.
Hi greetings from india....
I d like to ask one que, you spoke abt ss which should be x 3 times of focal length.
So why you said in case of 16mm lense use 1/16 of second and why in case of 200 mm you said use 1/600 ss why it was minimum in minimum focal length but why not it was minimum in 200 mm case ( ex. 1/200 ss)
Thanking you
I was wondering about this aspect. I want to upgrade my camera, but I don't have the budget for better lenses right now. I was wondering if the body improves the overall quality of the images even if you don't change the lenses. Upgrading to 6400 from a6000.
I have a Canon Rebel T6. So I can still get a very sharp image with this body as long as I have a high quality lens? Any recommendations for high quality lenses that for this T6
Would you recommend the Sony AIII Or the Nikon D750? For portraits and baby photography ? Thanks
And which lenses
Thank you so much for this video. It is the best video I have seen on this subject matter. You presented it in a simple concise way, Making it so much easier to understand.
Hi, need a little help shooting indoor basketball. My images are either blur or too grainy. Different lighting in every high school. I have the nikon d5500 and using a 18.300 nikon lens. Do I need to upgrade my camera or lens. I've done outdoor sports and I've taken great pictures. I just can't figure out this indoor volley ball and basket ball.
Great video. What about when you are using a tripod for stills?
great video and thank you for not over explaining or complicating things - very well done!
Hei friend. thanx for a such learing to shooting correct image. But i have one question. how to shooting large group off ppl. They are still.
not moving. Can
you please give a answer.
So i have a 18mm-135mm nikon dx for my d80 so say i whent to 50 i would use 1/150sec?
My previous dslr was a canon 1000D twin lens kit, 18-55 with IS & 75-300 without IS. I started taking photos of my sons rugby games and even though rugby is a fast moving sport the shutter speed was generally set at 1/125 shooting with the 75-300. I consider myself on the amateur side of photography and up until that point had been taking photos of reasonably still things. So I was surprised when taking these photos they were sharp at that shutter speed. Another thing it's very rare I edit my photos as when I do in my eyes they look bad so I try to compose them right and keep changing the settings. Like for one 80minute game of rugby I took 300-400 photos & got about 5-7 great shots. So this shows even with the kit lenses you can, with practice, take good photos. This year I updated to the canon F50 mirrorless again twin lens kit and wow couldn't believe how much the technology with the lenses have changed. But one important thing I've learned just have fun & take a heap of photos.
6D Mark II here + 50mm 1.8 ... Pretty good video mate. PS: I loooove that accent and color of your voice Greetings from Serbia 🇷🇸
haha the australian accent. thanks for watching!
I have the same setup. What settings worked best for you?
Hi Pat, thank you for this video, it was quite an eye opener.
I really need some help - a beginner in the field!
I want to start my RUclips channel on beauty and eventually lifestyle and I feel I should go with the Sony ZV E10 or the Sony A6400. Is there any other camera you’d recommend? If not, I’m confused if I should go with the Kit Lens or should I get a 50mm for my beauty videos and another lens for lifestyle (but I don’t know which and budget is a little limited too).
Any recommendations please?
hey can you recommend a good lens for my nikon 5300 for still photo portraits mainly
First time watching you. Really impressed how you explained the basics of photography. Definitely i’m subscribing your channel, I’ll go right now and check more content! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
I just need help setting up my a7siii for video at gyms please and thank you, lighting is sort of bright and some areas dark. 35mm 1.4FE and ND filter I think it’s called
I just learned more from this video Than I have from the last 20, I have watched. Thank you, nicely done. New subscriber here.
Thank you one of the best explanations i have seen yet.