All photos edited with my Lightroom Preset Packs which you can find here: www.digitalfilmactions.com/lightroom-presets#/new-amalfi-lightroom-preset/ Thank you so much for watching!
0:31 lens might be dirty 1:14 filters might be affecting focus 2:00 lens just not that sharp, especially if vintage 3:55 aperture, f-stop too low 5:34 camera motion blur 7:08 subject motion blur 7:53 focal length affecting motion blur 8:41 the focus settings might not be right for the scene
2:52 Most lenses are sharpest between f11 and f8 and in some rare cases f5.6. When she's babbling about f2.8 and f2 to achieve sharpness she unveils how completely clueless she is.
@@RUclips_Stole_My_Handle_Too No, not really and you did not watched video carefully or just focused on first half of the sentence. Julia is talking about using f/2.0 or f/2.8 over wider apertures (like f/1.8 or f/1.4) because lenses are sharper and have wider focus range WHILE it still offers nice out of focus background, not making everything in focus and, in result, "flat" photo.
@@Stasiek_Zabojca Your explanation isn't the least satisfying. Things usually begin to happen from f8 through f11. If sharpness is needed background blur can only be achieved in post. And no, I don't watch the whole video after a fatality early on. There's a limit to my patience with clueless and stupid.
Had to come on here to say that I used these tips for a client shoot this week and the photos came out INCREDIBLE. May be my best portraits I've ever taken. The bokeh you get from these settings is buttery smooth and everything looks beautiful.
it's pretty iffy if you're taking money for photos and you needed a you tube video to sharpen up your images, so before this you've been taking money for sub par images
You make learning about photography really accessible and easy to understand. I really appreciate your ability to show examples in your videos. Thank you!
2 года назад+40
There are 2 more reasons why photos becomes blurry: 1. using optical stabilization, 2. not using optical stabilization :-) 1. When camera is mounted on tripod - always turn off optical stabilization. Otherwise built-in stabilization into camera (eg used by me Sony A7RIV) will slightly shift the sensor. If long exposure is used together with long focal length - taken picture will become completely blurred. This is why old Sony A99 has built in tripod detection and automatically can turn off stabilization. The most modern A7RIV can't do it. Amazing! Isn't it? 2. When camera is hand held always use optical stabilization. Long exposure times and long focal lengths are your enemy. Good quality optical stabilization results sharp pictures even if exposure time is 4-stops longer.
I’m really excited to dive deeper into this video. My images are almost always sliiighly out of focus or grainy (even with a low ISO) and it was driving me crazy
Thanks for reminding me of some things and teaching me a couple new things. As a 70 year old with slight hand tremors I have been upping the shutter speed but apparently not enough. 😀
Hello, Julia, I am Radmila, from Latvia (Europe) wow, I am so glad that I found you! I just bought a camera and already learned so much from your video. And I like your style as well. Thank you for your job.
That sounds like a highly informative video! Getting sharp photos is such an important aspect of photography, and it's great that there's content out there addressing common challenges. Learning about the factors that affect sharpness can really take someone's photography skills to the next level. Whether it's about understanding camera settings, mastering focus techniques, or even exploring how lighting can impact clarity, there's always something new and exciting to discover in the world of photography! 📸✨
If the image is out of focus that means you have AF on. Turn it off and step down a few f's. Read up on the depth of field checker as well. You will LOVE it. My Linhof has one on the lens. I recommend Leitz lenses.
I've found that a UV filter sometimes with backlight can have white or grayish circle. This comes from light bouncing around. It's the main reason I no longer use them. But sometimes there is a good reason to use them. To protect you lens from tgr elements.
Thanks for the tips. I have slight hand tremors and have upped my shutter speed but apparently not enough from what you are saying. I didn't know about the telephoto rule either. Your video explained a lot. Thanks
wow, i am totally blown away with the level of detail, not only in the photos shown, but your explanation and the information!! ive just bought a used panasonic Lumix DMC TZ80/ZS60 travel zoom camera as i want to get into photography, and i have found that the majority of my photos have a level of blur or distortion to them, and i really want to move away from setting the dial to auto and just snapping away. i will watch this video over a few times more in the coming days, so i can hopefully prepare myself with knowledge for when the weekend arrives and i head out (hopefully with the tripod i have ordered) to some local places to get some photos taken. thank you for taking the time to put this video together to help people like me! love from the UK!
I use crop bodies and full frame. Due to sensor limitations in lower light, the apsc sensor tries to bump iso leading to noise, or lengthen shutter speed leading to subject motion blur, even with “wide aperture“ APSC f1.4 lenses. I find I either have to increase ambient light, add a flash, or stick to full frame wider aperture lenses in more challenging light. Harder to push limits with crop system.
Thank you for these tips. I am a newer photographer and just bought a new Sony A7R III. I will be keeping this video in mind and I do my photo shoots. What would be your number one tip for someone starting out in photography?
You are my absolute favorite photographer and youtuber. Your videos are always so informative and detailed. I know you do a lot of outdoor work, but do you do any studio work? If so, can you do a studio video with lighting? I do both but in this Florida heat the summertime are mainly studio sessions and I would love some tips and tricks! Thank you :)
Thank you!! I have a few studio photoshoots up on my RUclips channel already :D You can try checking out: GM 70-200mm f2.8 mkII Review, Tamron 18-300mm review, iPhone 13 Pro max review, some of my self portrait sessions and my latest one which is titled Macro Lens Portrait Photography. I hope that helps!
Thank you, Julia. I have resorted to "Auto" for stills and the Olympus does take good Bokeh shots in that mode. However, I will see if my OMD EM 2 Mk 3 has Continuous Autofocus. That was the most important thing I learnt just now. (I aim to better use the Oly for video, but I am learning that skills in stills shooting will cover most of the problems). Bluey Quilty, MA AUSTRALIAN HERITAGE QUANTA
You are a goddess of photography. In past few days I watched like 20 videos of you. And each one of them was soooooo useful. Thank you so much for shearing your knowledge. 🌹❤️
Content suggestion: I've got my first digital camera. I have experience shooting completely manual with film. Searching beginner videos for digital photography that isn't just photography fundamentals is pretty difficult. I'm reading the user manual but I like being entertained 😅.
my dad just recently bought me a new sony a6600 and I was soo frustrated when my images were coming up a bit blurry and grainy compared to his old nikon d5200 this helped alot
Depends on what kind of camera you are using. Older DSLRs would often be used with single shot to increase hit rate. New mirror less cameras are best used in continues focus all the time. The only reason why you would switch to single shot is when it gets really dark as single shot will male it easier for the camera to find a correct focus. For everything else it’s continues focus all the way, especially for all the new focus features.
Thanks! Like I mentioned in the video, if I am handholding my camera then I will just leave it on continuous AF for group shots. Getting big groups of people in focus is more about what aperture you choose and how you position the group for the photo
SO! HELPFUL! Ive been shooting portraits & keep thinking Im getting the settings right, but I still have an eye in focus & blurry nose and other eye, and its making me CRAZY! Thank you! (subscribed) ;)
I haven't done watching the video but I saw your comment and had to reply. I once had that situation and turns out my viewfinder itself is out of focus lol do look up on how to adjust your viewfinder and then check to see if it's already in focus!
@@saltedjellyfish Do you mean the diopter adjustment? When the camera automatically focuses the diopter has nothing to do with it. On some Canon cameras there is a micro adjustment setting but that's mostly for back/front focus. It's said that in live view it forgo the viewfinder setting and deals directly with the sensor on dSLR. I find that in mirrorless cameras it focuses without problems. When I use a Canon L lens on both the mirrorless and dSLR the mirroless images are shaper. I guess the mirror slap might be affecting the images?
@@kanehi3275 I was. Oh sorry I thought you meant the photo isn't as sharp when u manually focus through viewfinder. Just realized you wrote auto focus. Yea agree, it shouldn't differ
@@saltedjellyfish Sometimes I will use manual focus when the camera is "hunting" to focus. Canon cameras tend to have difficulty focusing in low contrast settings. One point focusing seems to help.
really useful. the bit of cleaning the lens I confess is something I can do better. on the continous versus single focus, just to add some cameras (I shoot Nikon) lets you pick within continous focus "focus priority or release priority". I would guess that for portraits "focus priority" should be selected. Some people like "release priority" to ensure the camera achieves its maximum frames per second. any thoughts about this?
Hi Julia, A quick question pls, Since you’ve used both Canon & Sony. Which one would you prefer & recommend to someone who is getting into the mirrorless system
Great content. Good to hear the Sydney accent. It’s amazing how you can still get negative comments with pretty informative non-controversial videos. I’ll be saving your channel for our schools photography course for next year. Keep up the good work.
Thank you for the tips! That was really cool to see the shot from Half Dome! I have a shot from that same exact spot except I shot the reflection off the water and then rotated it to the proper orientation. Keep up the great work and you've gained another follower, Cheers.
Thank you 😊. Your videos are among my favorites on RUclips. For me, a hobbyist, I am more interested in the soulful storytelling aspect of photography. Your explanations inspire that 📸
Thank you so much for sharing, lots of useful information explained simply and easy to put into practice. It looks like you have a lot of fun naking the videos as well. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks and some good tips but Im not sure why some portrait photographers want such super sharp photos. Ive been doing it 17 years and the last thing I want is photos that show every pore, blemish, bead of sweat...Not to mention the sharpness these days has a very digital look. Modern cameras and lenses are way too sharp as is. I really love that shot with the vintage lens! Which lens and adapter is that? No one is punching into 100% and looking at our photos from Instagram on huge 4k monitors anyways. That shot is amazing and would look so on a smartphone, how most people view our work. I actually do use Mist filters to soften them up and help reduce that awful digital look. I guess if you are shooting beauty headshots or makeup product shots in a studio you might want razor sharp detailed photos but thats not for me. Keep up the great work!
Everyone is obsessed with "tack" sharp nowadays. I see so many photos that are so sharp that they look unrealistic. Obviously you don't want them blurry, but a little softness in portraits is flattering.
Honestly i did think about your comments a while back as 24mp sensors give a great balance between quality and "normal" portrait outputs. BUT when switching up to use 45-60mp full frame or 50-100mp medium format sensors then the number of spots or blemishes that need adjusting is almost unreal. Something for folks to think about...
@@hazard3020 Huge megapixel cameras are useless for portraits IMO. The only thing that much resolution is useful for is landscapes or architecture where you need all that resolution to show fine details or you need to crop way into a photo. Portraits require neither.
@@michaelbell75 the dynamic range and colour technology is superb. Portraits taken on the Fuji 100mp are - honestly - wonderful when printed at any size. But, obviously, not everyone can afford those devices and lenses.
Glad you enjoyed the video. This video wasn't specifically about portraits, just photography in general. But I get what you mean! I think it really depends what the photos are for and the look you are going for. I love having super sharp portraits sometimes and other times like I showed in this video I also like using vintage lenses haha just depends! I do know having high contrast/sharp skin is really handy for retouchers too, so there's another scenario sharpness comes in handy!
Smiling continuously when you are talking is really strange and inauthentic. Breaking out a 10/10 smile when talking about cleaning a filter is weird. You are absolutely stunning. Please don’t feel you need to smile to be in front of a camera and listened to. You don’t even need to smile once if you don’t feel it. Thank you for your videos. I’m not a troll. I support your work Thank you 🖤
I turn sharpness down to -4 on all my in-camera settings. The last thing I want is a digital looking photo. Maybe it’s a fujifilm thing, and of course it’s subjective and depends on what you’re going for, but if you look at the work of most photographers that shoot models, there is always an effort to get rid of sharpness. Big difference between taking a blurry photo and a lack of sharpness.
I use a cinesoft filter sometimes and I like the effect of non sharp image, but sometimes super sharp is nice too: sigma lenses, 3.5-5.6f and good light
That's an interesting point. Especially as in 2022 black mist filters are becoming very popular to give folks just THAT look that you are describing above. Thanks for making your points. It's not just s Fuji thing in my opinion.
@@hazard3020 yes definitly its not just a Fuji thing, but I think in my Lumix -1 or -1.5 its enough to not create that digital look. But I prefere the Pro Mist effect tbh
I agree it really depends what you're going for! Sometimes I love really sharp looking photos and sometimes I use vintage lenses or a pro mist filter for a softer look.
Great thoughts. These are basics though. After doing these, editing with edge and high frequency brightness and colour contrast adds tons of sharpness.
I love your channel... all clear & nice english, easy to understand around all world... and finally great photographer with open mind, good luck and keep sharing your knowledge... thx!
Hi Julia, I have just picked up a Sony A7III. I was wondering if you can tell me what setting you use for photography? Do you use the Creative Style function and if so, what setting do you use? Standard, Vivid, Neutral, etc? And how do you have the Contrast, Sharpness and Saturation set? Or if not any of these, what do you do use? Much appreciated!
I have an older Sony A7III set up video on my channel if you wanted to watch, otherwise my newer A7IV setup video has almost all the same settings. In terms of photo styles, I don't actually use any! I use standard picture profile. Since I shoot in raw, picture profiles don't apply. They are more useful for video!
@@juliatrotti Thank you Julia for responding! I wasn't sure if the creative style function had any correlation with shooting raw so thank you for clarifying it.
BIG TIP, put into Manual and learn to use your camera by shooting lots. Auto is okay when you work fast in live events, but you should be aware of what the camera is doing and what different setting make. Don’t use the camera in a way it is thinking for you.
For a 35mm frame (36x24mm), 50mm is essentially a match to your eyeball; normal vision. Greater than 50 is telephoto, less than is wide angle. For sensors smaller than a 35mm frame normal vision is less than 50mm.
If I had come across this before it would have helped a lot. It has all the important gotchas in one video! Also, thanks for mentioning canon equivalents as well. In my camera's case AI Servo is just known as Servo. The EOS M line predates the new nomenclature used in the EOS R line.
Thanks, I'm having an issue with a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 G for some reason my photos look soft I have tried the aperture but I still can't seem to get a sharp image unless I am too far away from my subject that may be the reason.
That should be a super-duper sharp lens. All lenses should focus to infinity, but all lenses have a minimum focus distance (focal plane to subject - the focal plane should be marked on the camera body). The aperture has no effect on this limit. The minimum focus distance for your lens is 17.8 inches. That number is cast in concrete. If you want to get closer, use a wide angle (28 or 35mm), or better yet, step up to a Micro Nikkor. If your camera can use manual focus lenses, then the 55mm f2.8 AIS lens is best because it can be stacked on PF rings and reversed for realllly close up work.
Everything well explained, and demonstrated, only getting into photography due to high-end drones having awesome camra's. Needed to learn this stuff personally. Thanks for taking the time to make this great educational video.
Good video. I don't do any of those things. I use a tripod with 70-200 with extender and converter with canon r5 to shoot hummingbirds 1/4000, 5.6. Auto ISO. can't figure out what the problem is. Canon just checked camera and it is ok. Thoughts?
All photos edited with my Lightroom Preset Packs which you can find here: www.digitalfilmactions.com/lightroom-presets#/new-amalfi-lightroom-preset/
Thank you so much for watching!
0:31 lens
might be dirty
1:14 filters might be affecting focus
2:00 lens just not that sharp, especially if vintage
3:55 aperture, f-stop too low
5:34 camera motion blur
7:08 subject motion blur
7:53 focal length affecting motion blur
8:41 the focus settings might not be right for the scene
haha, just exited.
2:52 Most lenses are sharpest between f11 and f8 and in some rare cases f5.6. When she's babbling about f2.8 and f2 to achieve sharpness she unveils how completely clueless she is.
@@RUclips_Stole_My_Handle_Too No, not really and you did not watched video carefully or just focused on first half of the sentence. Julia is talking about using f/2.0 or f/2.8 over wider apertures (like f/1.8 or f/1.4) because lenses are sharper and have wider focus range WHILE it still offers nice out of focus background, not making everything in focus and, in result, "flat" photo.
@@Stasiek_Zabojca
Your explanation isn't the least satisfying. Things usually begin to happen from f8 through f11. If sharpness is needed background blur can only be achieved in post. And no, I don't watch the whole video after a fatality early on. There's a limit to my patience with clueless and stupid.
@@Stasiek_Zabojca Yes this is what I am talking about if they bothered to listen to the entire sentence ;)
I'm an non-English speaker and I really like your explanations. So easy to understand, clear pronunciation, and I don't need to use the caption.
Thank you!
Had to come on here to say that I used these tips for a client shoot this week and the photos came out INCREDIBLE. May be my best portraits I've ever taken. The bokeh you get from these settings is buttery smooth and everything looks beautiful.
That's awesome to hear! Glad you enjoyed :D
it's pretty iffy if you're taking money for photos and you needed a you tube video to sharpen up your images, so before this you've been taking money for sub par images
You make learning about photography really accessible and easy to understand. I really appreciate your ability to show examples in your videos. Thank you!
There are 2 more reasons why photos becomes blurry: 1. using optical stabilization, 2. not using optical stabilization :-)
1. When camera is mounted on tripod - always turn off optical stabilization. Otherwise built-in stabilization into camera (eg used by me Sony A7RIV) will slightly shift the sensor. If long exposure is used together with long focal length - taken picture will become completely blurred. This is why old Sony A99 has built in tripod detection and automatically can turn off stabilization. The most modern A7RIV can't do it. Amazing! Isn't it?
2. When camera is hand held always use optical stabilization. Long exposure times and long focal lengths are your enemy. Good quality optical stabilization results sharp pictures even if exposure time is 4-stops longer.
I love her accent… “shaapa” “capchaa” “chapness” “shap” “auta focas” “na da shap” don’t take it the wrong way, it’s cute 😂
Down bad 😂
@@MattWoulph down bad? What does that mean lol
Don't get out much?
Bruh 😏💕
absolutely perfect for my ears... pilsen, czech rep, middle europe... to be honest, many britain and us speakers are hard to understand by foreign...
I’m really excited to dive deeper into this video. My images are almost always sliiighly out of focus or grainy (even with a low ISO) and it was driving me crazy
Came here randomly, just want to tell you that your way of speaking and smile is simply awesome....
Thanks for reminding me of some things and teaching me a couple new things. As a 70 year old with slight hand tremors I have been upping the shutter speed but apparently not enough. 😀
Hello, Julia, I am Radmila, from Latvia (Europe) wow, I am so glad that I found you! I just bought a camera and already learned so much from your video. And I like your style as well. Thank you for your job.
That sounds like a highly informative video! Getting sharp photos is such an important aspect of photography, and it's great that there's content out there addressing common challenges. Learning about the factors that affect sharpness can really take someone's photography skills to the next level. Whether it's about understanding camera settings, mastering focus techniques, or even exploring how lighting can impact clarity, there's always something new and exciting to discover in the world of photography! 📸✨
If the image is out of focus that means you have AF on. Turn it off and step down a few f's. Read up on the depth of field checker as well. You will LOVE it. My Linhof has one on the lens. I recommend Leitz lenses.
Excellent advice! My colleagues who shoot red carpet with me suggested continuous focus. I started using it and with great results. Thanks again.
I've found that a UV filter sometimes with backlight can have white or grayish circle. This comes from light bouncing around. It's the main reason I no longer use them.
But sometimes there is a good reason to use them. To protect you lens from tgr elements.
God, when it came to that 135mm part, I fell in love all over again 😍
Also, on Nikon cameras it's also called continuous AF (and single AF)
Thanks for the tips. I have slight hand tremors and have upped my shutter speed but apparently not enough from what you are saying. I didn't know about the telephoto rule either. Your video explained a lot. Thanks
wow, i am totally blown away with the level of detail, not only in the photos shown, but your explanation and the information!! ive just bought a used panasonic Lumix DMC TZ80/ZS60 travel zoom camera as i want to get into photography, and i have found that the majority of my photos have a level of blur or distortion to them, and i really want to move away from setting the dial to auto and just snapping away. i will watch this video over a few times more in the coming days, so i can hopefully prepare myself with knowledge for when the weekend arrives and i head out (hopefully with the tripod i have ordered) to some local places to get some photos taken. thank you for taking the time to put this video together to help people like me! love from the UK!
This was so incredibly helpful. Thank you for your hard work!
I use crop bodies and full frame. Due to sensor limitations in lower light, the apsc sensor tries to bump iso leading to noise, or lengthen shutter speed leading to subject motion blur, even with “wide aperture“ APSC f1.4 lenses. I find I either have to increase ambient light, add a flash, or stick to full frame wider aperture lenses in more challenging light. Harder to push limits with crop system.
Thank you for these tips. I am a newer photographer and just bought a new Sony A7R III. I will be keeping this video in mind and I do my photo shoots. What would be your number one tip for someone starting out in photography?
Ahhhh Indiarose-Thomas, one of my favourite models to photograph. Nice video. Love your contents. Cheers
You are my absolute favorite photographer and youtuber. Your videos are always so informative and detailed. I know you do a lot of outdoor work, but do you do any studio work? If so, can you do a studio video with lighting? I do both but in this Florida heat the summertime are mainly studio sessions and I would love some tips and tricks! Thank you :)
Thank you!! I have a few studio photoshoots up on my RUclips channel already :D You can try checking out: GM 70-200mm f2.8 mkII Review, Tamron 18-300mm review, iPhone 13 Pro max review, some of my self portrait sessions and my latest one which is titled Macro Lens Portrait Photography. I hope that helps!
Thank you, Julia. I have resorted to "Auto" for stills and the Olympus does take good Bokeh shots in that mode. However, I will see if my OMD EM 2 Mk 3 has Continuous Autofocus. That was the most important thing I learnt just now.
(I aim to better use the Oly for video, but I am learning that skills in stills shooting will cover most of the problems).
Bluey Quilty, MA AUSTRALIAN HERITAGE QUANTA
You are a goddess of photography. In past few days I watched like 20 videos of you. And each one of them was soooooo useful. Thank you so much for shearing your knowledge. 🌹❤️
Ahh thank you so much!
I bought Nikon z7ii but I don't know how to use manual mode . Now I am learning from your videos. 🙂
Content suggestion: I've got my first digital camera. I have experience shooting completely manual with film. Searching beginner videos for digital photography that isn't just photography fundamentals is pretty difficult.
I'm reading the user manual but I like being entertained 😅.
Once you know the operational bits of your camera, stop looking at beginner videos?
SO helpful for absolute beginners like me!! Instant subscription earned, well done Julia! 🤗
Glad it was helpful!
my dad just recently bought me a new sony a6600 and I was soo frustrated when my images were coming up a bit blurry and grainy compared to his old nikon d5200 this helped alot
This video was so helpful!! Thank you so much for sharing ❤🫶
Thank you. You are truly a pleasure to listen to and learn from. Looking forward to seeing more from you.
This is by far the most in depth video I've seen on the subject of not so sharp photos.
Great tips! When it comes to shooting big parties like a family wedding portrait, would you use single shot or continuous focus?
Depends on what kind of camera you are using. Older DSLRs would often be used with single shot to increase hit rate. New mirror less cameras are best used in continues focus all the time. The only reason why you would switch to single shot is when it gets really dark as single shot will male it easier for the camera to find a correct focus. For everything else it’s continues focus all the way, especially for all the new focus features.
@@Seitenwerk I have an a7iii. Thanks for the tips
Thanks! Like I mentioned in the video, if I am handholding my camera then I will just leave it on continuous AF for group shots. Getting big groups of people in focus is more about what aperture you choose and how you position the group for the photo
SO! HELPFUL! Ive been shooting portraits & keep thinking Im getting the settings right, but I still have an eye in focus & blurry nose and other eye, and its making me CRAZY! Thank you! (subscribed) ;)
Good points, thanks. Sometimes I find auto focus thru the viewfinder isn't as sharp as live view.
I haven't done watching the video but I saw your comment and had to reply. I once had that situation and turns out my viewfinder itself is out of focus lol do look up on how to adjust your viewfinder and then check to see if it's already in focus!
@@saltedjellyfish Do you mean the diopter adjustment? When the camera automatically focuses the diopter has nothing to do with it. On some Canon cameras there is a micro adjustment setting but that's mostly for back/front focus. It's said that in live view it forgo the viewfinder setting and deals directly with the sensor on dSLR. I find that in mirrorless cameras it focuses without problems. When I use a Canon L lens on both the mirrorless and dSLR the mirroless images are shaper. I guess the mirror slap might be affecting the images?
@@kanehi3275 I was. Oh sorry I thought you meant the photo isn't as sharp when u manually focus through viewfinder. Just realized you wrote auto focus. Yea agree, it shouldn't differ
@@saltedjellyfish Sometimes I will use manual focus when the camera is "hunting" to focus. Canon cameras tend to have difficulty focusing in low contrast settings. One point focusing seems to help.
really useful. the bit of cleaning the lens I confess is something I can do better. on the continous versus single focus, just to add some cameras (I shoot Nikon) lets you pick within continous focus "focus priority or release priority". I would guess that for portraits "focus priority" should be selected. Some people like "release priority" to ensure the camera achieves its maximum frames per second. any thoughts about this?
This was so helpful! One of the best videos on the subject. Thank you!
Okay the second film one is so gorgeous!!!! I’m obsessed with that photo
Thank you!! I am working on a whole behind the scenes video with those photos, can't wait to share it.
Another great video Julia!
Thanks Julia, I feel your channel will help my photography.
What a pleasant personality! you're a good teacher..
Amazing! Thank you so much for sharing those tips!
Hi Julia,
A quick question pls, Since you’ve used both Canon & Sony. Which one would you prefer & recommend to someone who is getting into the mirrorless system
Thank you, Julia! I’ll try to photograph in continuous. All the photographers that I spoke told me to photograph only in One shot 🤷🏻♀️
Great content. Good to hear the Sydney accent. It’s amazing how you can still get negative comments with pretty informative non-controversial videos.
I’ll be saving your channel for our schools photography course for next year. Keep up the good work.
I really love all of your video's very clear and easy to understand! Do you ever make videos with Fuji cameras?
I'm getting addicted with the way u speak😍😍 sooo cute dear🥰🥰🥰
She can explain it so well! Thank you so much! I love learning from you and your accent is awesome! 😁
Thank you for the tips! That was really cool to see the shot from Half Dome! I have a shot from that same exact spot except I shot the reflection off the water and then rotated it to the proper orientation. Keep up the great work and you've gained another follower, Cheers.
Thank you 😊. Your videos are among my favorites on RUclips. For me, a hobbyist, I am more interested in the soulful storytelling aspect of photography. Your explanations inspire that 📸
Thank you so much!
Very helpful video with some simple common sense bits that even some of us shooting for awhile forget about.
Very helpful! I like videos like these who uses real examples instead of just explaining in words! ❤
Aghhhh. The last tip kills me. As a noob I had no idea about those AI Servo settings. So much to learn. Thank you
Glad you found this helpful!
Thanks Julia! This is very useful! :) I like how you clearly explain everything in each video!
Thank you :)
Thank you so much for sharing, lots of useful information explained simply and easy to put into practice. It looks like you have a lot of fun naking the videos as well. Thanks for sharing!
simple but very helpful, thanks!!
Like 2 minutes in and you've solved the issues I was having. I didn't realize that box for showing what was going on was there, I didn't
Super helpful, and cohesive delivery! Thank you for this. Also, you have a great smile!
Thank you so much for your free advice, I'm just abt to start rekindling my love for photography and this is very helpful! All your videos!
Thanks and some good tips but Im not sure why some portrait photographers want such super sharp photos. Ive been doing it 17 years and the last thing I want is photos that show every pore, blemish, bead of sweat...Not to mention the sharpness these days has a very digital look. Modern cameras and lenses are way too sharp as is. I really love that shot with the vintage lens! Which lens and adapter is that? No one is punching into 100% and looking at our photos from Instagram on huge 4k monitors anyways. That shot is amazing and would look so on a smartphone, how most people view our work. I actually do use Mist filters to soften them up and help reduce that awful digital look. I guess if you are shooting beauty headshots or makeup product shots in a studio you might want razor sharp detailed photos but thats not for me. Keep up the great work!
Everyone is obsessed with "tack" sharp nowadays. I see so many photos that are so sharp that they look unrealistic. Obviously you don't want them blurry, but a little softness in portraits is flattering.
Honestly i did think about your comments a while back as 24mp sensors give a great balance between quality and "normal" portrait outputs. BUT when switching up to use 45-60mp full frame or 50-100mp medium format sensors then the number of spots or blemishes that need adjusting is almost unreal. Something for folks to think about...
@@hazard3020 Huge megapixel cameras are useless for portraits IMO. The only thing that much resolution is useful for is landscapes or architecture where you need all that resolution to show fine details or you need to crop way into a photo. Portraits require neither.
@@michaelbell75 the dynamic range and colour technology is superb. Portraits taken on the Fuji 100mp are - honestly - wonderful when printed at any size. But, obviously, not everyone can afford those devices and lenses.
Glad you enjoyed the video. This video wasn't specifically about portraits, just photography in general. But I get what you mean! I think it really depends what the photos are for and the look you are going for. I love having super sharp portraits sometimes and other times like I showed in this video I also like using vintage lenses haha just depends! I do know having high contrast/sharp skin is really handy for retouchers too, so there's another scenario sharpness comes in handy!
Nice work, Julia 👍
This works. Recommended to try this out. Thanks a lot for your help
Smiling continuously when you are talking is really strange and inauthentic.
Breaking out a 10/10 smile when talking about cleaning a filter is weird.
You are absolutely stunning.
Please don’t feel you need to smile to be in front of a camera and listened to.
You don’t even need to smile once if you don’t feel it.
Thank you for your videos.
I’m not a troll.
I support your work
Thank you
🖤
I turn sharpness down to -4 on all
my in-camera settings. The last thing I want is a digital looking photo. Maybe it’s a fujifilm thing, and of course it’s subjective and depends on what you’re going for, but if you look at the work of most photographers that shoot models, there is always an effort to get rid of sharpness. Big difference between taking a blurry photo and a lack of sharpness.
I use a cinesoft filter sometimes and I like the effect of non sharp image, but sometimes super sharp is nice too: sigma lenses, 3.5-5.6f and good light
That's an interesting point. Especially as in 2022 black mist filters are becoming very popular to give folks just THAT look that you are describing above. Thanks for making your points. It's not just s Fuji thing in my opinion.
@@hazard3020 yes definitly its not just a Fuji thing, but I think in my Lumix -1 or -1.5 its enough to not create that digital look. But I prefere the Pro Mist effect tbh
I agree it really depends what you're going for! Sometimes I love really sharp looking photos and sometimes I use vintage lenses or a pro mist filter for a softer look.
Wouldn’t turning the sharpness down in camera only effect the jpeg’s? The raw files would not be influenced.
Thank you so much for your calm and detailed sample explanations.
Also, Applying tension to the neck strap dampens camera movement in at least one direction, sorta the way a monopod does.
My problem is that my photos are sharp on my camera but as soon as i download them on my phone or computer the quality is a lot worse
same with me!
Same with me
Great thoughts. These are basics though. After doing these, editing with edge and high frequency brightness and colour contrast adds tons of sharpness.
So great!!!
Simply Superb KNOWLEDGEABLE Video
Great reasons to be thinking about. Thank you!!
Thank you so much . The way you’ve explained has been more than helpful! I appreciate your style and explanation
I love your channel... all clear & nice english, easy to understand around all world... and finally great photographer with open mind, good luck and keep sharing your knowledge... thx!
Hey Julia, thanks for the video it’s really useful for me and I learned so much more from this video
Okay I have to watch this few more times. I’m so distracted by Julia! 🤣🤣🤣🤣
Hi Julia, I have just picked up a Sony A7III. I was wondering if you can tell me what setting you use for photography? Do you use the Creative Style function and if so, what setting do you use? Standard, Vivid, Neutral, etc? And how do you have the Contrast, Sharpness and Saturation set? Or if not any of these, what do you do use? Much appreciated!
I have an older Sony A7III set up video on my channel if you wanted to watch, otherwise my newer A7IV setup video has almost all the same settings. In terms of photo styles, I don't actually use any! I use standard picture profile. Since I shoot in raw, picture profiles don't apply. They are more useful for video!
@@juliatrotti Thank you Julia for responding! I wasn't sure if the creative style function had any correlation with shooting raw so thank you for clarifying it.
BIG TIP, put into Manual and learn to use your camera by shooting lots. Auto is okay when you work fast in live events, but you should be aware of what the camera is doing and what different setting make. Don’t use the camera in a way it is thinking for you.
What is focal length and how is it determinded? Thanks. Great video
For a 35mm frame (36x24mm), 50mm is essentially a match to your eyeball; normal vision. Greater than 50 is telephoto, less than is wide angle. For sensors smaller than a 35mm frame normal vision is less than 50mm.
If I had come across this before it would have helped a lot. It has all the important gotchas in one video! Also, thanks for mentioning canon equivalents as well. In my camera's case AI Servo is just known as Servo. The EOS M line predates the new nomenclature used in the EOS R line.
Thank you 🙏 I love how you explained everything. Watching from the Philippines 🇵🇭😉 surely to top the bell button for more videos 😊❤
Love your advice and your smile .thanks
Thought this was an instant subscribe and just when I was about to do just that, I found out that I am already a subscriber. Nice.
The accent makes my day😭❤️
Thanks, I'm having an issue with a Nikkor 50mm 1.8 G for some reason my photos look soft I have tried the aperture but I still can't seem to get a sharp image unless I am too far away from my subject that may be the reason.
That should be a super-duper sharp lens. All lenses should focus to infinity, but all lenses have a minimum focus distance (focal plane to subject - the focal plane should be marked on the camera body). The aperture has no effect on this limit. The minimum focus distance for your lens is 17.8 inches. That number is cast in concrete. If you want to get closer, use a wide angle (28 or 35mm), or better yet, step up to a Micro Nikkor. If your camera can use manual focus lenses, then the 55mm f2.8 AIS lens is best because it can be stacked on PF rings and reversed for realllly close up work.
This was SO informative. Thank you so much! ❤
Everything well explained, and demonstrated, only getting into photography due to high-end drones having awesome camra's. Needed to learn this stuff personally. Thanks for taking the time to make this great educational video.
Thank you, glad you enjoyed!
what about apsc sensor camera does the rule of thumb apply the double the shutter speed?
I'm mesmerized by you and i can just sit and watch you talk without blinking it's crazy haha but tks so much about your experience shared !
Love your accent!!! Thanks for awesome info keep it up! 👍🏼
If we can't adopt you, can my wife and I thank you? Your delivery is terrific!
Thank you for sharing. Have you used a gimbal?
Hi julia, is it necessary to have UV filter? Is there a situation where it would be more needed?
She is very knowledgeable. Thanks a bunch for the video!
This was very helpful. Thank you!
Good video. I don't do any of those things. I use a tripod with 70-200 with extender and converter with canon r5 to shoot hummingbirds 1/4000, 5.6. Auto ISO. can't figure out what the problem is. Canon just checked camera and it is ok. Thoughts?
Love your content and the knowledge you impart
Hey ! How do you record the screen of your camera without the Ninja V ?
How do you change to continuous af in canon camera?! :) Love your videos, you’ve helped me so much learn photography!
You and your voice is so sweet feel like hearing repeatedly
Your voice is so nice to listen to! Thank you for this information :)
Julia, what is that monitor attached to your camera at the ~8:35 mark? And what is the purpose of it? Thank you in advance.