I have been watching your videos for years and your content has been so incredibly helpful! I struggle to pick things up sometimes but your visual examples and side by side comparisons are fantastic. Thank you so so so much!
Thanks Julia. Can I give a tip? Seems my students struggle remembering which number is larger. I never write F2 or F8, but rather write f/2 or f/8. I think it helps reinforce that it’s a fraction. Everyone can remember they’d rather have 1/2 a pie rather than 1/8. 😊
The way I remember is not by number is opening but how much it’s closed. Meaning the number is distance from lens outer perimeter to blade opening circle.
I really Love your Videos Best videos Ive Seen for a female content creator but since Ive been watching your videos lately Ive been picking up my camera more often
This answers a lot for me!! I do have a question, if you have a subject and want that blurry background with a large f-stop does it affect how far the subject is to you? Say I want to use an fstop of 2.5 so it’s slightly blurry, but you can make out the background a little but I want my subject far to get all of the trees or background will this affect the focus of the subject or maybe a couple in like engagement photos? Ty!
From around the 5:00 mark, you shot a bunch of photos at iso 640, but SS over 1/1000. Is 640 another base iso for the camera you're using? I just started out last year and am trying to understand why not half your iso and double SS. Thanks!
I really enjoy your videos. My only comment is you use beautiful, young, smooth skin models. I would like to see what you do with an older model, male or female. I usually photograph older people and I would like to see how to deal with those with poses to minimize the flaws without going crazy in post. Almost all RUclips videos dealing with models always use, young, beautiful, flawless skin models. I would love to see what it's like to photograph people with winkles.
one thing to point out that faster lens are generally better because of faster shutter chance of shaky image is rare so if you are not professional and dont have stable hand going for 1.2 or 1.4 means you will have sharper image because image will be taken faster
Great video! But one thing I was missing for portrait photography: how much of the face should be in focus, usually I set my focus on one eye but at 35mm large wide open the ears or even the nose won’t be in focus
As much as I hate portraits with one eye out of focus, there's no right or wrong answer. It's what you prefer. If the person is facing straight to camera than you can get away with using a wider aperture (F1.2 - F2.0) and still have both eyes in focus. You will have to use smaller aperture (F4.0+) to bring the nose and ears more in focus.
Thank you and I agree with the responses here, there is no right or wrong, it's up to you and what you/your client prefers. It's not easy, but it is also possible to get both eyes in focus even at f1.2 if you have them both at the same distance from your lens.
Great video, only thing I'd add is that the idea of a 'fast' lens, and what creates the most bikeh is relative to the focal length. A 50mm F4 might be slow but a 600mm F4 is considered fast, and will create a super shallow depth of field. The same applies to lenses like 200mm F2 and 400mm F2.8 which can create even more subject separation and bokeh than a 50mm F1.2.
Hi Julia, sorry this is a bit off-topic, but I was wondering if you could help me with something. I'm a beginner at photography, and I've noticed in many videos that people set their ISO to 100 when shooting in sunlight. However, when I set mine to 100, my photos come out all black. If I try adjusting my shutter speed to fix it, it causes motion blur. Do you have any tips for this? Thanks in advance!
If you sort my videos from most popular, I have a video called How to shoot in Manual Mode for Beginners which takes you through a step by step guide on how to adjust your camera settings to get the correct exposure. I hope that helps!
The fact remains that there are no shortage of stand out images out there (especially in the fashion industry) that have been shot with a deep depth of field (take Mattia Holm's work to highlight but one shooter as an example). F2.8 primes and F4 zooms are also SO much more pleasing to carry and walk around with and are they are WAY cheaper too. And on the topic of value? To cite an example, a Sony GM 85mm 1.4 ii and a GM 24-70mm 2.8 ii, or, a 20-70mm f4, Sigma 90mm 2.8, 2x AD200pro strobes with various head attachments, an AD200 ring flash, an AD200 stick flash, an AD600pro, a couple of stands a couple of umbrellas and a couple of hard light modifiers all for the same price as the two GM lenses? Because that's an example of how one can spend their money. Hands down, any decent pro will be able to do a heck of a lot more with the latter choice than they could with the first. To all the newbies out there, milk your money for all it's worth and rely on good subject matter over blurry backgrounds to get "great" images. The broader the shoot kit, the harder one can play. Go get em peeps, happy shooting.
hi friends is anyone seeing the link to the detailed video overview Julia mentions? Im not seeing it. or how far back to go or what is the title to search on her channel? thx!
What iso is a no go for when it comes to do portraits? I know that sometimes we don't want to get rid of low aperture and on top of that we can't go down with shutter speed because of for instance windy weather. What would be a limit for iso to still be able to get decent portrait photos? Photos that might be "revived" in LR for example?
Hi Julia, how do you take care of your lenses from dust ? do prime lenses get dust inside the body? I have zoom lens that is frequently getting dust inside.
Love your videos, plenty of info no fluff. If I may, after 50 years of photography, I still watch videos and I notice the main issue is with aperture and the inverse nature behind it. It’s confusing to novices when you say “increase the aperture” when you intend to say”decrease”. As in “increase the aperture to 8-11” or “decrease aperture from 8 to 1.8”. If you increase the aperture you’re making the lens opening bigger to allow more light in, therefore going from 8 to 1.4, not the other way! And so vice versa. In photography I always use the pizza analogy. Would you prefer 1/2 a pizza or 1/16 of a pizza. In this case 2 is bigger than 16. Please be careful with “increase or decrease”. In photography they’re opposite of each other.
I was shooting a wedding early after noon. And I was getting ISO 200 f2.8 and a shutter of 4000th if I remember correct it was a beach wedding. If you want to shoot a lower ISO then you'll need a camera that can go to ISO 100 and even better even lower and a camera that can go to 8000th mechanical shutter and if you need faster then there is electronic shutter on todays mirrorless cameras.
I made the exact mistake that you just mentioned. I used F 1.4 lens to photograph a large group of audience and ended up having most of them out of focus. Can you also please advise how to shoot in a relatively low light situation like in the evening with a lower aperture
Use a flash :-). And with a lens at 24 mm you get more depth of field than with a 50 mm. You can also go further away from the group and crop the picture afterwards.
@@wanneske1969thanks for the tip. I will try flash next time around. I have a Sony a6700 and it does not have a built in flash. I will need to get an external flash.
Thats all lens dependant ! a 200mm at f8 will look like your 50mm 1.4 , subject distance taken into account . I havnt seen my primes for 20 years , theyre dumped in a bag
I really don't understand how do you like this Z 85 1.2 (same with the Z 135 1.8 Plena) . I am fully Nikon shooter for 14 years and 4 years in Z mount but the newest fast NIkon lenses produce extremely flat and lifeless photos that even you can't make it breathe like with your old lenses Julia. The digital photography just went off the charts...
but why do you bump the ISO to 640 if your SS is only 1250? why not lower your ISO and increase your SS, you would reduce noise and especially, gain more dynamic range...
It's probably the second base iso from the camera. So you would need to go to ISO 100 to gain a significant dynamic range boost. The dynamic range of modern sensors should be more than sufficient for most scenes anyway. Especially since it didn't look like a high dynamic range scenario.
@@Pamela-c5o ppl complain all the time, they asked for fast, cheap, lightweight lenses now they do not stop crying about flat images, the same ppl who always say "gear doesn't matter"
I have been watching your videos for years and your content has been so incredibly helpful! I struggle to pick things up sometimes but your visual examples and side by side comparisons are fantastic. Thank you so so so much!
When it comes to photography 📸 , I trust Julia Trotti 😊.
Super underrated comment! 🎉🎉🎉
Ahh thank you!! Feeling the love 🥰
Thanks Julia. Can I give a tip? Seems my students struggle remembering which number is larger. I never write F2 or F8, but rather write f/2 or f/8. I think it helps reinforce that it’s a fraction. Everyone can remember they’d rather have 1/2 a pie rather than 1/8. 😊
I also have taught it to my students as “less is more!”
if they bought a ridiculous expensive fast lens they will remember😂
I don't remember my kit lens anymore but I will always remember my 70-200 2.8
The way I remember is not by number is opening but how much it’s closed. Meaning the number is distance from lens outer perimeter to blade opening circle.
This is really good. Thank u
@@minimeguju6868 oh i love that, ty
I really Love your Videos Best videos Ive Seen for a female content creator but since Ive been watching your videos lately Ive been picking up my camera more often
Many thanks for sharing Julia; brilliant explanation of how to use this aspect of taking happy snaps !!!!!
This answers a lot for me!! I do have a question, if you have a subject and want that blurry background with a large f-stop does it affect how far the subject is to you? Say I want to use an fstop of 2.5 so it’s slightly blurry, but you can make out the background a little but I want my subject far to get all of the trees or background will this affect the focus of the subject or maybe a couple in like engagement photos? Ty!
From around the 5:00 mark, you shot a bunch of photos at iso 640, but SS over 1/1000. Is 640 another base iso for the camera you're using? I just started out last year and am trying to understand why not half your iso and double SS. Thanks!
Excellent lesson and presentation. I am a relative newbie and find your explanations easy to follow and understand.
Thank you, I'm glad to hear that!
I really enjoy your videos. My only comment is you use beautiful, young, smooth skin models. I would like to see what you do with an older model, male or female. I usually photograph older people and I would like to see how to deal with those with poses to minimize the flaws without going crazy in post. Almost all RUclips videos dealing with models always use, young, beautiful, flawless skin models. I would love to see what it's like to photograph people with winkles.
one thing to point out that faster lens are generally better because of faster shutter chance of shaky image is rare
so if you are not professional and dont have stable hand going for 1.2 or 1.4 means you will have sharper image because image will be taken faster
I have a XC 35 mm f2, a tele 55-200 and the kit 18-55 Fuji lenses
Great video! But one thing I was missing for portrait photography: how much of the face should be in focus, usually I set my focus on one eye but at 35mm large wide open the ears or even the nose won’t be in focus
As much as I hate portraits with one eye out of focus, there's no right or wrong answer. It's what you prefer. If the person is facing straight to camera than you can get away with using a wider aperture (F1.2 - F2.0) and still have both eyes in focus. You will have to use smaller aperture (F4.0+) to bring the nose and ears more in focus.
@@Pamela-c5o Yes, you're right but at 35mm wide open at portrait distance, it will be easy to lose focus of one eye.
Thank you and I agree with the responses here, there is no right or wrong, it's up to you and what you/your client prefers. It's not easy, but it is also possible to get both eyes in focus even at f1.2 if you have them both at the same distance from your lens.
Great video, only thing I'd add is that the idea of a 'fast' lens, and what creates the most bikeh is relative to the focal length. A 50mm F4 might be slow but a 600mm F4 is considered fast, and will create a super shallow depth of field. The same applies to lenses like 200mm F2 and 400mm F2.8 which can create even more subject separation and bokeh than a 50mm F1.2.
Thank you and very true! I was thinking of making another video covering this with some on location examples 🤔
@@juliatrotti that sounds great 👍
Hi Julia, sorry this is a bit off-topic, but I was wondering if you could help me with something. I'm a beginner at photography, and I've noticed in many videos that people set their ISO to 100 when shooting in sunlight. However, when I set mine to 100, my photos come out all black. If I try adjusting my shutter speed to fix it, it causes motion blur. Do you have any tips for this? Thanks in advance!
If you sort my videos from most popular, I have a video called How to shoot in Manual Mode for Beginners which takes you through a step by step guide on how to adjust your camera settings to get the correct exposure. I hope that helps!
The fact remains that there are no shortage of stand out images out there (especially in the fashion industry) that have been shot with a deep depth of field (take Mattia Holm's work to highlight but one shooter as an example). F2.8 primes and F4 zooms are also SO much more pleasing to carry and walk around with and are they are WAY cheaper too. And on the topic of value? To cite an example, a Sony GM 85mm 1.4 ii and a GM 24-70mm 2.8 ii, or, a 20-70mm f4, Sigma 90mm 2.8, 2x AD200pro strobes with various head attachments, an AD200 ring flash, an AD200 stick flash, an AD600pro, a couple of stands a couple of umbrellas and a couple of hard light modifiers all for the same price as the two GM lenses? Because that's an example of how one can spend their money. Hands down, any decent pro will be able to do a heck of a lot more with the latter choice than they could with the first. To all the newbies out there, milk your money for all it's worth and rely on good subject matter over blurry backgrounds to get "great" images. The broader the shoot kit, the harder one can play. Go get em peeps, happy shooting.
Can't be better explained!!!
Thank you Chema!!
Great video, even better shots!
hi friends is anyone seeing the link to the detailed video overview Julia mentions? Im not seeing it. or how far back to go or what is the title to search on her channel? thx!
What iso is a no go for when it comes to do portraits? I know that sometimes we don't want to get rid of low aperture and on top of that we can't go down with shutter speed because of for instance windy weather. What would be a limit for iso to still be able to get decent portrait photos? Photos that might be "revived" in LR for example?
Will you ever review the pixel 9/9 pro/9 pro XL?
Does the PPA work for people outside America? -e.g I live in Mauritius. Will I be eligible to join in the insurance scheme?
Distance from your subject makes a huge difference. As always good video.
Hi Julia, how do you take care of your lenses from dust ? do prime lenses get dust inside the body? I have zoom lens that is frequently getting dust inside.
air blowers and dry cabinets work for me
It really depends on the lens, it's weather sealing, etc. I just make sure to do upkeep on my lenses regularly to keep them as clean as I can
Great video, Julia! Thank you!
Thanks so much!
Me watching this knowing I only shoot at 1.2-2.0
Bahaha real
me wondering why my subject's nose and ears are so fuzzy
I realized I am a wide depth of field photographer after four years of shooting, I only open aperture in low light 😅
thank you
Love your videos, plenty of info no fluff. If I may, after 50 years of photography, I still watch videos and I notice the main issue is with aperture and the inverse nature behind it. It’s confusing to novices when you say “increase the aperture” when you intend to say”decrease”. As in “increase the aperture to 8-11” or “decrease aperture from 8 to 1.8”. If you increase the aperture you’re making the lens opening bigger to allow more light in, therefore going from 8 to 1.4, not the other way! And so vice versa. In photography I always use the pizza analogy. Would you prefer 1/2 a pizza or 1/16 of a pizza. In this case 2 is bigger than 16. Please be careful with “increase or decrease”. In photography they’re opposite of each other.
If I don't shoot at 1.4 it's most likely at 2.8!
Yeah for me I'm usually wide open for personal work and f2-3.5 for client work (weddings, etc)
I was shooting a wedding early after noon. And I was getting ISO 200 f2.8 and a shutter of 4000th if I remember correct it was a beach wedding. If you want to shoot a lower ISO then you'll need a camera that can go to ISO 100 and even better even lower and a camera that can go to 8000th mechanical shutter and if you need faster then there is electronic shutter on todays mirrorless cameras.
Great video but depth of field is not only managed by the aperture, also by the focal length and distance to the subject.
Yes this is true! I want to make another video about this and show examples out on location
You forgot to mention the distance of the background behind the subject
Thanks for knowledge sharing
superb for you Julia
Ask, you're set camera on manual or aperture priority?
I use my camera in manual, but there is no right or wrong way to shoot, just use whatever setting is more comfortable for you!
excellent thank you
HDR off or on for iPhone camera
I personally have it off
@@juliatrotti thank you
Thank you :)
Thank you so much Juli ❤
Thanks for watching!
@@juliatrotti you are the one who motivating me to follow my dreams. I really appreciate it . ♥️
Why does the Hello Kitty hold a sign saying "求包养”😅😅😅
Great simple video. Would love to see a video on filters and lens hoods
I made the exact mistake that you just mentioned. I used F 1.4 lens to photograph a large group of audience and ended up having most of them out of focus.
Can you also please advise how to shoot in a relatively low light situation like in the evening with a lower aperture
Use a flash :-). And with a lens at 24 mm you get more depth of field than with a 50 mm. You can also go further away from the group and crop the picture afterwards.
@@wanneske1969thanks for the tip. I will try flash next time around. I have a Sony a6700 and it does not have a built in flash. I will need to get an external flash.
@@kartikniyogi you should. internal flashes are crap.
I agree with the response here to use a flash, that way you can bump up your aperture to get them all in focus!
@@juliatrottiThank you Julia ☺️
Waiting for iphone 16 pro max video ❤
I won't have one this year unfortunately! I will do one for the 17 next year
Thats all lens dependant ! a 200mm at f8 will look like your 50mm 1.4 , subject distance taken into account . I havnt seen my primes for 20 years , theyre dumped in a bag
Thank you so much❤
Thanks for watching!
Thanks
I love your amazing beauty and your sweet voice
I really don't understand how do you like this Z 85 1.2 (same with the Z 135 1.8 Plena) . I am fully Nikon shooter for 14 years and 4 years in Z mount but the newest fast NIkon lenses produce extremely flat and lifeless photos that even you can't make it breathe like with your old lenses Julia. The digital photography just went off the charts...
but why do you bump the ISO to 640 if your SS is only 1250? why not lower your ISO and increase your SS, you would reduce noise and especially, gain more dynamic range...
It's probably the second base iso from the camera. So you would need to go to ISO 100 to gain a significant dynamic range boost.
The dynamic range of modern sensors should be more than sufficient for most scenes anyway. Especially since it didn't look like a high dynamic range scenario.
damn l really want a lense that goes wider than my 3.5 aperture kit lense 💯✨
The best aperture is always the largest imo 😂
lol too real 😂
Aw Julia you’re aging! You look so much older here, been watching you when I first started photography!
Just what a woman wants to hear.
@@TC-eo5eb I meant no harm. It’s a beautiful thing actually
F 0.95 or nothing.
I can't believe I STILL haven't used an f0.95 lens before, f1 is the closest. BRB and finding an f0.95 lens I can use 😂
Hii mam
Sony lenses give us so flat and boring image even with small aperture... Try Helios 44-2!
@@Pamela-c5o ppl complain all the time, they asked for fast, cheap, lightweight lenses now they do not stop crying about flat images, the same ppl who always say "gear doesn't matter"
@@Pamela-c5o Can you share some photos?
I have a video with the Helios on my channel already, as well as some other videos with different vintage lenses :)
Hii mam
How to take photos like a camera could you tell me mam plz
At the phone