Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is
@@SteveArnoldPhoto I have never subscribed to anyone, but this was a MUST. I’m awaiting my new camera to be delivered so I been doing research to be familiar on photography. Thank you for your knowledge and I look forward to more
This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
@@RetrieverTrainingAlone Id rather deal with small details in post processing than have a photo too dark with lots of noise and color that cant be revived. Or the reverse when all colors are blown out because i couldnt compensate quick enough. I shoot in areas where im constantly going through light changes and anything can be all around me. Shutter priority is a must.
Surely with birds in flight, you want a high minimum shutter speed … not an aperture if f/8. He’s essentially describing Aperture Priority where he (not the camera) changes the shutter speed. Fair point about exposing for the bird not the background.
2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.
IMHO, this video is targeted towards people that already know how to use their camera, just discussing the technics behind a good photo. Every camera has different settings and different ways to access and show them. If you're using a Canon, ir, (that's my case), you need to rotate the mode selector dial to the "M" position and it enables tou to select iso, aperture and shutter speed. After switching to the manual mode, you can use the buttons to change each of these settings: Arrow up: ISO Right arrow: Focus mode Wheel on the front: shutter speed Hold "Av" + wheel on the front: aperture
I want to offer an alternative approach which covers a broader scenario; your solution is great, but presumes the shooters wants a large DOF and/or a static image, eg landscape. This is my approach: based on the session (sports vs static) set shutter speed FIRST (its critical for fast moving images), then aperture (sports for example I want a more shallow DOF), then finally ISO to set exposure. This method now applies to my scenario and yours; I can set SS at 1/250th, aperture to F8 and then dial ISO accordingly. Just another perspective. I enjoyed your explanation. thanks for sharing.
In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this …. a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec) b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4. c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction. So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks. I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
Reminds me very fondly of when I learned from scratch back in High School about Bracketed Exposures and HDR, also Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO...Length of time sensor is exposed...The size of the lens opening and how the higher the number the smaller the lens opening...and the Sensitivity of the Sensor...and Photoshop...there's so much to it and it's so cool!!!...Haven't shot anything on a DSLR on Auto since...not even Aperture or Shutter Priority...love your explanation video for shooting in Manual! Accurate!
I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks. I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode. Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.
Im a beginner, and find using manual very fiddly when you want to take pictures quickly. The method I use most is Av mode (unless subject is moving and then I swap to Tv mode), exposure lock onto the thing that gives me the look I want, then focus on subject, then re-frame the scene. This requires three movements to set up, but actually works quite quickly for me. Is this what many people use? Am I doing it wrong? Portraits/Street photography mainly
Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.
@@thilobraun3440 me too, Canon R7 for street and travel photography and with the canon Fv mode being so flexible it is a powerhouse - my skill is still catching up with my equipment though!
I exclusively use FV mode. It makes things so much easier to quickly respond to changing shooting conditions. Using FV and the histogram gives me great perfectly exposed shots. I use a Canon R and R7.
Could you please explain to me why you said at the beginning that working in M mode with auto ISO + exposure compensation is wrong (from 0:39) and then in 2:10 you do exactly that way? It does not make any sense. Why can't I have auto ISO and then do the exposure compensation?
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
@@RetrieverTrainingAloneAlso depends if you're using a tripod or not. While I do do landscapes, I use a monopod for ease of transport. Bracketing is then not possible.
Hi Steve, this video and another I watched from Sean Tucker explained everything so well regarding shooting in Manual mode. Thank you so much; this was incredibly helpful, as I'd always been a little nervous about shooting in manual mode.
I have taken better photos in manual using the +/- scale and the best shots have the histogram way over to the left which of course needs shadow adjustment of the raw file but if you blow the highlights they are are a lot more difficult to fix so I expose for the highlights with the expose scale histogram just goes for the mid tones
I’m an old timer, 40 yrs ago everything I owned was manual, including focus, so ever camera no matter how up to date high tech , gets the same treatment, 50/50 with the focus , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!
You are essentially advocating using Aperture Priority in Manual Mode where you are adjusting the aperture manually using the meter and screen brightness as a guide. That’ll work for the landscape subject you use but not for sport or wildlife. Screen brightness is not a good guide to exposure - essentially because that’s dependent on how bright you set your screen to. The histogram is a better indicator of the distribution of tones and crucially are the highlights blown out. As you do say if your camera is on Aperture Priority if you don’t like the result you can use the Exposure Compensation dial. In variable light your camera can react faster than you can. As others have pointed out constant exposure can be best when photographing wildlife. For most photographers using one of the semi-auto modes will result in a higher success rate than using manual. There are many professional photographers out there who dismiss the “real photographers only shoot in manual” dogma as a myth.
This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.
And to your point, here is another approach to the "manual with . . . " way of thinking. It uses the ISO. When talking about ISO noise, the two videos are a tad contradictory. I'm not saying either is right or wrong. It's up to the individual photographer to decide which method works best for his style/genre of photography: ruclips.net/video/oAEV1HyS8Bg/видео.html
If your camera has an automatic bracketing function - yes. Three advantages of doing that: (1) you choose manually how many bracketed shots are taken and how far apart [your decision the camera just does what it has been told], (2) You release the shutter button once & don’t touch the camera again until the sequence ends [manually changing will cause registration issue]. (3) The camera will do the whole operation much faster than you can do manually - minimising the risk of anything moving or the light levels changing.
Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots", if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority. Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel. Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.
Of course every possible photography question has a "it depends" answer to some degree. I think my video covers most bases, especially in the context of landscape photography.
Been shooting professionally 51 years so according to your logic I would have missed thousands of shots from weddings to sports ranging across all hours of day or night....not the case though and here's why. As a pro, I knew my equipment and the various film stocks. I shot some MF but mostly 35mm film until digital came along but the technique was the same...I knew the limits of my equipment plus I had already analyzed the shoot parameters for lighting, type of shot, composition, location, time of day, etc. I had simple formulas for certain venues and specific bodies/lenses that matched the needs. Nowadays, everybody wants a one click solution to a perfect shot so moving a shutter, aperture or ISO dial isn't in the recipe...basically just lazy mofos IMHO. There really is nothing difficult about getting a shot....IF you know what the fook you're doing. Trying to apply a RUclips 'BEST WAY' video's settings without understanding what the hell you're doing is why so many of these damn things exist. The VAST majority of socmed videos don't start at the beginning with how equipment actually works and how you know what its limits are. How the hell do you know if these people are actually accurate if you don't know yourself? The influencer leading the blind......
I used to use manual, now Auto with the right thumb wheel on a Nikon set for exposure compensation.. Histogram is to be visible and I keep it centered when possible. Something like a snow scene I push it right or if shadows are too dark, it goes right.
Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.
Great tips, Good advice, but in the end you're left doing what works for you in the moment. In my experience getting "Great shots" in full manual mode takes proficiency and skill, and that just takes time to gain, no problem, just shoot as often as you can where ever and when ever. But I personal know "Pros" also utilize those semiautomatic modes to great benefit as well. Me included, when time and urgency are a factor, like at an event.
You're whole video basically explains why when I was actively shooting, I shoot on Aperture priority mode 90-95% of the time and would change the brightness of the scene using the EV (exposure compensation) feature. Additionally, our cameras back in the day didn't have the dynamic range of today's wonderful tools. Therefore, we were stuck using filters on top of everything to balance the shots (Landscapes)...
Mr. Arnold should've added that these are great settings for landscape photography but horrible for birds in flight (and birds in general). ISO 100? With today's mirrorless cameras, that's not necessary (but go for it if you're shooting landscapes/still subjects on a tripod). Aperture of F11? If you're right on top of the bird and want to get both head and tail in focus, sure. But at most distances, you want to shoot birds wide-open for that uncluttered bokeh background. And for all but the largest birds, a minimum shutter speed of 1/2000th is essential, taking us back to much higher ISOs than 100 with all except five-figure lenses. Lastly, you don't want to be "test shooting" and fiddling with exposure settings while attempting to track a falcon flying at 70 kph through scenes that bathe it in constantly changing lighting. Set the system to wide-open aperture, shutter with an auto-minimum of 1/2000 and no max limit, and Auto ISO with your chosen min/max...and get the shot.
True, because every time I shoot in aperture priority, and the exposure is so random that I finally discovered that shooting in manual is the best (for my portraits)
I am not a pro by far, but isn't the point of semi auto modes to do everything you said here, but in reverse - first you choose a signature effect you need from either aperture or shutter speed (and you're already pretty much limited with the setting range), then your ISO is adjusted for optimal brightness/noise, then you adjust the indicator with exposure compensation?
A good old trick as well: shooting manual with auto ISO, but to avoid too high values you can cap it to a certain amount in your camera settings. This allows for more creative control over aperture and shutter speed when needed which are the two settings really affecting your art direction in a photo. Ideally though full manual and a tripod is the way to go 👍
Thanks for this helpful, informative, and educational video. It is daunting when you see all these buttons and dials on a camera, and as beginners want to learn and start somewhere, and of course get away from the automatic modes, too, so we can create our own work. Much thanks :-)
yeah thats a good point. I guess I could have worded it more accurately as "high iso leads to more visible noise" even though it doesnt directly cause it. cheers
Agree to disagree - but only a little bit. I think you can use each kind of automatic as long as you stay Chief in Command. But that means that you have to be familar with all the manual stuff you're talking about. For me it's easy but I took my first steps with the old analog Zeiss Icon from my Dad. No automatic available with "only" a fixed focal length. Gread cam I'm still in love with.
Hi Steve, thank you for your amazing video. Prior to going on a vacation, I watched a video of a photographer indicating that to assist with exposure, that you should set the ISO to auto. With already using aperture priority and letting the camera set the shutter speed automatically, using your video, I was letting the camera make determinations for 2/3 of the settings. After reviewing my photos once back from the trip, I found the exposures of my photos all over the place. So much contrast in many of the photos, some did have the right exposure, but obviously, not great in terms of percentages for great number of photos. I have a couple questions for you. What exposure point do you recommend? Evaluative, selective point? I had my camera on a central focal point, which likely also didn't help my exposure I assume? In addition, my 24-105 lens died on me near the end of the trip. The plastic baffle that goes back and forth communicates the settings to the camera body generated a communications error. I wonder if this factored into my exposure problems too. Luckily, I had better odds with better photos with a spare wide angle lens I pressed into service for all the photos left to take. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
You can do that within reason, but too much will lose image quality. the goal is to get it as close to perfect as possible in camera so you don't have to change exposure too much in editing.
Great video. Cos I capture lots of fast moving objects, may have issues using very low shutter speed. What's your take on using lens filters to help reduce the light/exposure getting into the camera especially on outdoor shoots?
Fantastic tips!! Hay Steve, two questions. (1) does your method work best using automatic or manual lenses? (2) would you recommend your formula for shooting video? Thanks for spreading your wealth of knowledge to the masses.
Thanks! :) 1) do you mean manual or auto focus lenses? If so, then it would work the same regardless (if not please clarify what you mean) 2) Yeah I think it would work the same for video, except keep in mind you have to keep a consistent shutter speed (eg 1/60 sec) so instead of the shutter speed being the brightness dial, ISO is probably the best option there. Keep in mind I'm not a videographer so this might be rubbish advice haha.
I used to shoot film with an all manual camera. I had to get the exposure correct first time. It wasn’t until hours later, when I had developed the film, that I knew for certain. Modern cameras give you instant feedback. The histogram is one of the main tools, the blinking burnt out highlights indicator is another. Do I check the histogram after every shot? No. Do I use the histogram? Absolutely yes. It’s there, it’s useful so use it.
You should do a video on adjustment setting when doing video. Great information for photos, but in videos you cant adjust the Shutter too much as it will blur too much of your background. Great video!!
Hi Barry, thanks for your question. LRC has introduced a lot of great tools recently including the masking stuff, but it's still not on the same level as Photoshop. The best example I can give quickly is the case of manually blending multiple exposures, which isnt doable in LR because you can't put two images in separate layers of the same LR document and mask them into each other. Cheers!
Sometimes having a dynamic range that is greater than the camera can handle can be an advantage. The fact that in a portrait of Orson Wells in the movie ‘The Third Man’ you can’t see his ears is irrelevant because is is the highlighted eyes and mouth that you what the viewers attention to be drawn to. You learn where you want the perfect exposure to be within the composition.
2:14 shutter 1s, f16, ISO100. Not changing the aperture and ISO, shouldn't the shutter speed be slower to allow more light in? Am I dumb or do I need to go relearn my basics?? I tested this setting on my camera, the image gets darker when i increase the shutter speed. Am I misunderstanding this video? English is not my first language.
You are correct. He actually says “dialling UP one of these three settings”. As an English native speaker I understood that he meant “changing” one of these three settings. What he literally said was incorrect. To increase the exposure you need - slow down the shutter speed (increasing the time it’s open), or open up the aperture (select a smaller f-number), or increase the ISO (boost the sensitivity of the sensor). It’s entirely your choice which one you leave fixed and which you change (that depends on the subject).
M mode with auto ISO is the best for me. I go in an out of rooms that are dark and light, then outside, then back inside and have to act fast. I think my R3 is smart enough to meter for me and I can tweak with EV. Yes, is a controlled environment I still use full M, but that's not the norm fo rme.
Using Auto ISO is not automatically bad. Sometimes you just have a second to get a shot off. And in that case i´d rather have Auto ISO give me a usuable image than missing the shot alltogether. However, if you have the time, always go for fully Manual obviously. Luckily its often super easy to switch from Auto ISO to Manual ISO in a matter of Seconds too. So i usually just let my Camera sit on Auto ISO so i never miss a shot, but can always adjust when i know i have a couple of seconds. I cant count the times i´ve missed a great shot oppertunity because i just didnt have the exposure set in time. Also i shoot pretty much exclusively Outdoors and not in spaces where you can control the Light or your subjects and without a Tripod. So that heavily factors into the Decision to have Auto ISO on as the standard.
Well, his approach is oriented tripod landscape. so, shutter speed (and the need of an eventual faster one) will only be a concern if you have moving elements in your landscape, as wind in trees or leaves that could create blur if to slow, moving water, although here, lower shutter speed can be desired for a water blur effect. Also, one forgets that some landscape pictures like a background or foreground blur sometimes, depending on the scene and wished effect, so f/8 and up is not always an absolute constant, but is when your goal is best planar depth of field sharpness (front to back). Last, diffraction can kick in with too small apertures, usually f/16 and up and lower with Aps-c over F.Frame.
@@alanalain4884Diffraction is determined by the diameter of the iris. The smaller the diameter (in absolute terms measured in mm) the more diffraction is an issue. It follows that the problem of diffraction induced softness is more of an issue on wide angle lenses than on telephoto lenses.
hey, I think if you're shooting a wedding soon and need help, you should probably search youtube for some specific wedding photography videos and maybe ask those guys - they have better advice than I can give for that type of photography.
An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
Great video where here, both full manual and bracketing are required or strongly advised . But for everyday use, full manual all the time ? I don't know... And nailing exposure ? That's also why AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) exists. That simple. You can't always let the camera average for the scene, or the scene being averaged with what you focus on, when there is too much dynamic range discrepancy in the scene. Usually outdoor you can AEL the sky and lift the shadows in post for the rest. There is no other way when your scene has both bright lit and much darker areas than using AEL to avoid blown highlights, or bracket, or under/over expose manually (but most cameras/DSLRs don't allow it in full manual mode, since you force in everything manually, there cannot be any automatic correction - unless if in auto iso, but yet, often camera don't allow exposure compensation function when in full manual, disregarding). You can also AEL on a midrange between the brightest and darkest area. Here, have to play a bit to get good at guessing where to AEL. Check your histogram on replay to be sure, . Or do exp. bracketing, but it's a little more demanding in post. Again, many cameras don't allow playing with exposure compensation when in full manual mode. Some do, rare, and some will keep the under/over exposure setting set prior when transiting to manual mode, but again many don't. Under or over expose for getting the right exposure works too though, and I also use it, but more as a known setting for some kind of scene (bird in flight against sky, etc), and on most of my camera brands, I like to be at -1/3rd at all times otherwise. For nailing the exposure I often tend to use more the AEL function than constantly playing with changing my manual exposure setting. Both are super useful features though. A note toward the beginners that could make a few mistakes thinking they absolutely need to use the full manual mode all the time. Most of the time, you don't need it. It's good to have for tripod landscapes, milky ways and some other stuff, sure, but having to change the settings all the time for each picture is a pain and in reality, when not on tripod, many photographers in everyday use will tend to use aperture or speed (shutter) priority most of the time according to the scene and its needs, and will even often ease themselves further, using auto Iso along. Also, using these 2 modes will bring you back the benefit of being able to use manual exposure compensation if you don't like using AEL, and don't forget than often neither or nor is needed, for often the camera does a good job with its evaluative metering.. Using AEL in manual mode may sometime result (IE: Sony) in getting a P mode equivalent, where to keep the exposure locked, changing aperture or speed will trigger the automatic change of the other to keep the AEL, or as with Canon, will show 2 cursors on the exposure ruler to show you how far you go from the set AEL when changing aperture/speed. And finally, if you're a beginner just discovering all these manual modes or full manual, still get your favorite scenes in auto mode on the side, at least once per favorite scene, and for two reasons. If you mess up in your first attempts in manual modes, your auto shot may have saved the day, and it will also allow you to see how well the camera works in auto mode with its metering and other stuff like the speed, aperture and Iso it chosen to use compared to what you came with with your purposed manual mode settings...
Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.
Have you tried the method i demonstrate in this video? It should work regardless of location, although I guess it depends what you mean exactly by terrible lighting.
@@SteveArnoldPhoto dark living room with low light but I'm going to try your method, although it's super scary trying to adjust things worried I'll mess something up.
@@lucy_76 if youre in low light, start with smaller f number than I suggested (f4 or f2.8 if your lens allows). And start with a higher ISO than I suggested - maybe 800. Then see what shutter speed you need to use to make the right brightness. Depending HOW dark the room is, it may be ok, otherwise your shots may be blurry because of the shutter speed. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you get on
flaws.. shooting landscape, is way different than taking a person with landscape or background behind, and not to mention a moving person cause of the skin tone. And another big factor is shooting with or no flash. Noobs, will take if not maybe 2 years to learn manual mode. Camera nowadays are much advance than before, so using some Automatic setting is completely fine. In my case Manual mode is my Shutter Speed, and Aperture, and Auto on ISO, and ETTL on my Flash. Rest is in my head with a basic starting point which I analyze the location lighting condition, so I can determine the SS and Aperture. Then, on some instances, I will apply exposure compensation. Have you seen the latest Phones nowadays, it can take better photos than a beginners and that is in Auto and using a phone.
If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.
i don't agree with the priority list. ISO setting should be the last of the three for most shots. ISO 100 is just unrealistic for most shots. the only time ISO can be set to 100 (or whatever the base is) before shutter speed is if you're both using a tripod AND the subject is not moving. in that case, the shutter speed can be set as slow as you want to get the desired exposure. any other time where shutter speed can't be too slow, ISO should be set last.
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Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
@SteveArnoldPhoto does it work in photoshop elements?
Only took me 2 months of watching different youtube videos to get someone to explain it to us noobies in idiot terms. Well done fella, what a great jumping off point this is
Hey mate, thanks for your comment! Great to hear this one helped!
My thoughts exactly mate 🤣
@@BarryGee-pm6rvwhy do you say that?
@@SteveArnoldPhoto I have never subscribed to anyone, but this was a MUST. I’m awaiting my new camera to be delivered so I been doing research to be familiar on photography. Thank you for your knowledge and I look forward to more
This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
@@RetrieverTrainingAlone Id rather deal with small details in post processing than have a photo too dark with lots of noise and color that cant be revived. Or the reverse when all colors are blown out because i couldnt compensate quick enough. I shoot in areas where im constantly going through light changes and anything can be all around me. Shutter priority is a must.
Surely with birds in flight, you want a high minimum shutter speed … not an aperture if f/8. He’s essentially describing Aperture Priority where he (not the camera) changes the shutter speed. Fair point about exposing for the bird not the background.
2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.
Sir, next time, please SHOW how you do everything you are saying WITH the camera. The talking alone didn't help much, we need visual reference.
Funny how the poster didn’t respond to this but responded to all other comments. 🤷🏻♀️
@@WanderFeetChronicles proof??
@@planetcaravan2925read the other comments.
IMHO, this video is targeted towards people that already know how to use their camera, just discussing the technics behind a good photo.
Every camera has different settings and different ways to access and show them.
If you're using a Canon, ir, (that's my case), you need to rotate the mode selector dial to the "M" position and it enables tou to select iso, aperture and shutter speed.
After switching to the manual mode, you can use the buttons to change each of these settings:
Arrow up: ISO
Right arrow: Focus mode
Wheel on the front: shutter speed
Hold "Av" + wheel on the front: aperture
Who's "We" I think you mean you lol
I want to offer an alternative approach which covers a broader scenario; your solution is great, but presumes the shooters wants a large DOF and/or a static image, eg landscape. This is my approach: based on the session (sports vs static) set shutter speed FIRST (its critical for fast moving images), then aperture (sports for example I want a more shallow DOF), then finally ISO to set exposure. This method now applies to my scenario and yours; I can set SS at 1/250th, aperture to F8 and then dial ISO accordingly. Just another perspective. I enjoyed your explanation. thanks for sharing.
Thanks for keeping it plain simple and to the point, one of the best how to's I've seen so far. I was faced with the last problem today - thanks
In the 60’ and 70’s, using roll film, if we didn’t want to use a meter, we started from this ….
a) same shutter speed as ISO. (100 asa = 1/100th sec)
b) Sunny, f16. Bright f8. Cloudy f5.6. Very dingy f4.
c) Juggle shutter up or down wherever you want but move the aperture the same number of clicks in the opposite direction.
So if it was Sunny. F16 at 1/100th for 100 ISO. However, for shallow depth of field an ND or move the aperture to f1.8 but move the shutter up to a faster speed by the same number of clicks.
I was using an old Mamiya C330 at one time and it really worked. Maybe roll film had more latitude but it was a handy little rule for preparing your camera in advance for running and gunning.
@@iancraig Awesome as, thanks heaps for this ❤️
This could be used on a multiple focal lengths mobile phone cameras too ☺️
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
Reminds me very fondly of when I learned from scratch back in High School about Bracketed Exposures and HDR, also Shutter Speed, Aperture, and ISO...Length of time sensor is exposed...The size of the lens opening and how the higher the number the smaller the lens opening...and the Sensitivity of the Sensor...and Photoshop...there's so much to it and it's so cool!!!...Haven't shot anything on a DSLR on Auto since...not even Aperture or Shutter Priority...love your explanation video for shooting in Manual! Accurate!
When I discovered bracketing, I was amazed at how I was able to get all the best lighting and shadows on everything!! So fun 😃
I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks.
I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode.
Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.
Im a beginner, and find using manual very fiddly when you want to take pictures quickly. The method I use most is Av mode (unless subject is moving and then I swap to Tv mode), exposure lock onto the thing that gives me the look I want, then focus on subject, then re-frame the scene. This requires three movements to set up, but actually works quite quickly for me. Is this what many people use? Am I doing it wrong? Portraits/Street photography mainly
He's describing doing it all from the end and by yourself, compared to the semi auto modes
Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.
Same with me. I like the FV Mode on the R Models. I have an R7.
@@thilobraun3440 me too, Canon R7 for street and travel photography and with the canon Fv mode being so flexible it is a powerhouse - my skill is still catching up with my equipment though!
I exclusively use FV mode. It makes things so much easier to quickly respond to changing shooting conditions. Using FV and the histogram gives me great perfectly exposed shots. I use a Canon R and R7.
Could you please explain to me why you said at the beginning that working in M mode with auto ISO + exposure compensation is wrong (from 0:39) and then in 2:10 you do exactly that way? It does not make any sense. Why can't I have auto ISO and then do the exposure compensation?
Good video, easy to understand !
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
I think his advice is primarily meant for the average amateur photographer, but what you said is still good to know.
@@dialectdrug Yes, his method bracketing exposure does not work EVERY TIME, only it applications where the subject is not moving.
@@RetrieverTrainingAloneAlso depends if you're using a tripod or not. While I do do landscapes, I use a monopod for ease of transport. Bracketing is then not possible.
Hi Steve, this video and another I watched from Sean Tucker explained everything so well regarding shooting in Manual mode. Thank you so much; this was incredibly helpful, as I'd always been a little nervous about shooting in manual mode.
I just use the histogram.
I have taken better photos in manual using the +/- scale and the best shots have the histogram way over to the left which of course needs shadow adjustment of the raw file but if you blow the highlights they are are a lot more difficult to fix so I expose for the highlights with the expose scale histogram just goes for the mid tones
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences using both ways 😊❤
Classic.
I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.
Been out today and followed your workflow for manual. Big breakthrough big breakthrough. Thanks
That's awesome to hear, thanks!
I've always struggled with getting exposer correct in the camera, (usually fixed in Lightroom) so will definitely try your method next time I'm out.
I’m an old timer, 40 yrs ago everything I owned was manual, including focus, so ever camera no matter how up to date high tech , gets the same treatment, 50/50 with the focus , cheers shane uk 🇬🇧
I still have my OM-1 and a bag full of lenses, and stepping up to a dlsr
Great video I’m a beginner and I’ve always found it difficult to get the right exposure your explanation has made sense
Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!
You are essentially advocating using Aperture Priority in Manual Mode where you are adjusting the aperture manually using the meter and screen brightness as a guide. That’ll work for the landscape subject you use but not for sport or wildlife. Screen brightness is not a good guide to exposure - essentially because that’s dependent on how bright you set your screen to. The histogram is a better indicator of the distribution of tones and crucially are the highlights blown out. As you do say if your camera is on Aperture Priority if you don’t like the result you can use the Exposure Compensation dial. In variable light your camera can react faster than you can. As others have pointed out constant exposure can be best when photographing wildlife.
For most photographers using one of the semi-auto modes will result in a higher success rate than using manual. There are many professional photographers out there who dismiss the “real photographers only shoot in manual” dogma as a myth.
I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.
Thats great to hear, thank you!
This seems fine for landscape photography. Where you're pointing in one general direction and using a tripod. It's much trickier in event photography where lighting changes as you change direction from back ligting to front lighting not to mention if you're zooming in and out between shots.
And to your point, here is another approach to the "manual with . . . " way of thinking. It uses the ISO. When talking about ISO noise, the two videos are a tad contradictory. I'm not saying either is right or wrong. It's up to the individual photographer to decide which method works best for his style/genre of photography: ruclips.net/video/oAEV1HyS8Bg/видео.html
05:25: doesn't bracketing do this automatically for us ?
If your camera has an automatic bracketing function - yes. Three advantages of doing that:
(1) you choose manually how many bracketed shots are taken and how far apart [your decision the camera just does what it has been told],
(2) You release the shutter button once & don’t touch the camera again until the sequence ends [manually changing will cause registration issue].
(3) The camera will do the whole operation much faster than you can do manually - minimising the risk of anything moving or the light levels changing.
The KISS principle again. Very inspiring, thanks. Will try it out now in November when the contrasts are low.
Thanks, reinforced some existing knowledge. Have you produced a video for sport/rugby photos
Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots",
if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority.
Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel.
Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.
Of course every possible photography question has a "it depends" answer to some degree. I think my video covers most bases, especially in the context of landscape photography.
Been shooting professionally 51 years so according to your logic I would have missed thousands of shots from weddings to sports ranging across all hours of day or night....not the case though and here's why.
As a pro, I knew my equipment and the various film stocks. I shot some MF but mostly 35mm film until digital came along but the technique was the same...I knew the limits of my equipment plus I had already analyzed the shoot parameters for lighting, type of shot, composition, location, time of day, etc. I had simple formulas for certain venues and specific bodies/lenses that matched the needs.
Nowadays, everybody wants a one click solution to a perfect shot so moving a shutter, aperture or ISO dial isn't in the recipe...basically just lazy mofos IMHO.
There really is nothing difficult about getting a shot....IF you know what the fook you're doing. Trying to apply a RUclips 'BEST WAY' video's settings without understanding what the hell you're doing is why so many of these damn things exist. The VAST majority of socmed videos don't start at the beginning with how equipment actually works and how you know what its limits are. How the hell do you know if these people are actually accurate if you don't know yourself? The influencer leading the blind......
Interesting approach. Thank you!
I used to use manual, now Auto with the right thumb wheel on a Nikon set for exposure compensation.. Histogram is to be visible and I keep it centered when possible. Something like a snow scene I push it right or if shadows are too dark, it goes right.
Thank you for making this video and sharing this knowledge, I’ve been trying to use manual mode when shooting on my camera so these tips are useful, very much appreciated.
I enjoyed this video. Thank you for taking the time and uploading it.
Thank you so much for sharing this tips and ideas for getting good images. It will help me a lot.
Nobody comes home with perfect photos every time
Great tips, Good advice, but in the end you're left doing what works for you in the moment. In my experience getting "Great shots" in full manual mode takes proficiency and skill, and that just takes time to gain, no problem, just shoot as often as you can where ever and when ever. But I personal know "Pros" also utilize those semiautomatic modes to great benefit as well. Me included, when time and urgency are a factor, like at an event.
You're whole video basically explains why when I was actively shooting, I shoot on Aperture priority mode 90-95% of the time and would change the brightness of the scene using the EV (exposure compensation) feature. Additionally, our cameras back in the day didn't have the dynamic range of today's wonderful tools. Therefore, we were stuck using filters on top of everything to balance the shots (Landscapes)...
Mr. Arnold should've added that these are great settings for landscape photography but horrible for birds in flight (and birds in general). ISO 100? With today's mirrorless cameras, that's not necessary (but go for it if you're shooting landscapes/still subjects on a tripod).
Aperture of F11? If you're right on top of the bird and want to get both head and tail in focus, sure. But at most distances, you want to shoot birds wide-open for that uncluttered bokeh background.
And for all but the largest birds, a minimum shutter speed of 1/2000th is essential, taking us back to much higher ISOs than 100 with all except five-figure lenses.
Lastly, you don't want to be "test shooting" and fiddling with exposure settings while attempting to track a falcon flying at 70 kph through scenes that bathe it in constantly changing lighting. Set the system to wide-open aperture, shutter with an auto-minimum of 1/2000 and no max limit, and Auto ISO with your chosen min/max...and get the shot.
True, because every time I shoot in aperture priority, and the exposure is so random that I finally discovered that shooting in manual is the best (for my portraits)
Great video Steve!
I am not a pro by far, but isn't the point of semi auto modes to do everything you said here, but in reverse - first you choose a signature effect you need from either aperture or shutter speed (and you're already pretty much limited with the setting range), then your ISO is adjusted for optimal brightness/noise, then you adjust the indicator with exposure compensation?
Sony Aperture Priority fin. Never had an exposure issue except for taking images of the moon at night I then use manual
best video to learn about this stuff so far! thanks man!
A good old trick as well: shooting manual with auto ISO, but to avoid too high values you can cap it to a certain amount in your camera settings. This allows for more creative control over aperture and shutter speed when needed which are the two settings really affecting your art direction in a photo. Ideally though full manual and a tripod is the way to go 👍
Thanks for this helpful, informative, and educational video. It is daunting when you see all these buttons and dials on a camera, and as beginners want to learn and start somewhere, and of course get away from the automatic modes, too, so we can create our own work.
Much thanks :-)
2:35 I am using a Sony A6400 and I don't see the indicator, is there a way to turn it on or does my camera not have an indicator?
Up on dial wheel
High ISO actually doesn't cause noise in your image. It just shows the noise that was already there due to a lack of light.
yeah thats a good point. I guess I could have worded it more accurately as "high iso leads to more visible noise" even though it doesnt directly cause it.
cheers
Agree to disagree - but only a little bit. I think you can use each kind of automatic as long as you stay Chief in Command. But that means that you have to be familar with all the manual stuff you're talking about. For me it's easy but I took my first steps with the old analog Zeiss Icon from my Dad. No automatic available with "only" a fixed focal length. Gread cam I'm still in love with.
Hi Steve, thank you for your amazing video. Prior to going on a vacation, I watched a video of a photographer indicating that to assist with exposure, that you should set the ISO to auto. With already using aperture priority and letting the camera set the shutter speed automatically, using your video, I was letting the camera make determinations for 2/3 of the settings. After reviewing my photos once back from the trip, I found the exposures of my photos all over the place. So much contrast in many of the photos, some did have the right exposure, but obviously, not great in terms of percentages for great number of photos. I have a couple questions for you. What exposure point do you recommend? Evaluative, selective point? I had my camera on a central focal point, which likely also didn't help my exposure I assume? In addition, my 24-105 lens died on me near the end of the trip. The plastic baffle that goes back and forth communicates the settings to the camera body generated a communications error. I wonder if this factored into my exposure problems too. Luckily, I had better odds with better photos with a spare wide angle lens I pressed into service for all the photos left to take. Any comments or suggestions would be welcome.
When talking about exposure can u take the photo then put the photo into an editing software to adjust the exposure?
You can do that within reason, but too much will lose image quality.
the goal is to get it as close to perfect as possible in camera so you don't have to change exposure too much in editing.
Great video. Cos I capture lots of fast moving objects, may have issues using very low shutter speed. What's your take on using lens filters to help reduce the light/exposure getting into the camera especially on outdoor shoots?
Fantastic tips!! Hay Steve, two questions. (1) does your method work best using automatic or manual lenses? (2) would you recommend your formula for shooting video? Thanks for spreading your wealth of knowledge to the masses.
Thanks! :)
1) do you mean manual or auto focus lenses? If so, then it would work the same regardless (if not please clarify what you mean)
2) Yeah I think it would work the same for video, except keep in mind you have to keep a consistent shutter speed (eg 1/60 sec) so instead of the shutter speed being the brightness dial, ISO is probably the best option there. Keep in mind I'm not a videographer so this might be rubbish advice haha.
I use exposure mode A, Zebra and exposure correction. That works also. M Mode only with external flash.
Excellent video. Really useful.
I APPRECIATE THIS VIDEO! Thanks for taking us back to Exposure basics...thank you!
Nice video... nice edit and explanation
Did I miss it? All this talk about "Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME", and not a single reference to the camera's histogram?
I used to shoot film with an all manual camera. I had to get the exposure correct first time. It wasn’t until hours later, when I had developed the film, that I knew for certain. Modern cameras give you instant feedback. The histogram is one of the main tools, the blinking burnt out highlights indicator is another. Do I check the histogram after every shot? No. Do I use the histogram? Absolutely yes. It’s there, it’s useful so use it.
Does this apply to studio photography also?
This is why I like my mirrorless r6 and r5. The picture I see through the EVF is the picture I'm going to get.
You should do a video on adjustment setting when doing video. Great information for photos, but in videos you cant adjust the Shutter too much as it will blur too much of your background. Great video!!
Cheers so much, this is easy... Also thank you so much for all your generosity too 😊❤
You're welcome, thanks for letting me know it works for you!
@SteveArnoldPhoto you're welcome anytime ☺️
I don't have a camera yet, but will save this video, just in case I end up, getting one ❤️
Thanks. Very informative. I do appreciate that you did not ask to subscribe & like. This is really a very professional way.
Thank you very much!
Good Information....But one thing you didn't mentioned about metering mode...its the main fact that affect exposure...
A fotometria teoricamente terá que ser feita nas altas luzes, e também depende se estamos em matricial. ponderada, ou pontual
How about just learning to use AEL for most ?..
Can u share settings for gopro 12 ? İ need settings for day and night. Please can u share
sorry, i wouldn't have any idea about go pro settings.
Steve, have you tried to develop a similar technique for LRC, since it also has luminosity masking capabilities? Thanks so much for the helpful video.
Hi Barry, thanks for your question.
LRC has introduced a lot of great tools recently including the masking stuff, but it's still not on the same level as Photoshop. The best example I can give quickly is the case of manually blending multiple exposures, which isnt doable in LR because you can't put two images in separate layers of the same LR document and mask them into each other.
Cheers!
@@SteveArnoldPhoto Got it. Thanks so much for responding.
Sometimes having a dynamic range that is greater than the camera can handle can be an advantage. The fact that in a portrait of Orson Wells in the movie ‘The Third Man’ you can’t see his ears is irrelevant because is is the highlighted eyes and mouth that you what the viewers attention to be drawn to. You learn where you want the perfect exposure to be within the composition.
I like that perspective :) thanks!
Amazing explanation ty
After I dropped my camera exposure is all over the place even when I have it set at 0. Do you think is the lense or camera that got damaged ?
Thanks. Very helpful
At 1:40 I was out. You may call it music (what for?). I call it noise.
yeh ok mate, thanks for your "feedback"
I face challenges in group photos, can you share some tips
2:14 shutter 1s, f16, ISO100. Not changing the aperture and ISO, shouldn't the shutter speed be slower to allow more light in? Am I dumb or do I need to go relearn my basics?? I tested this setting on my camera, the image gets darker when i increase the shutter speed. Am I misunderstanding this video? English is not my first language.
You are correct. He actually says “dialling UP one of these three settings”. As an English native speaker I understood that he meant “changing” one of these three settings. What he literally said was incorrect. To increase the exposure you need - slow down the shutter speed (increasing the time it’s open), or open up the aperture (select a smaller f-number), or increase the ISO (boost the sensitivity of the sensor). It’s entirely your choice which one you leave fixed and which you change (that depends on the subject).
M mode with auto ISO is the best for me. I go in an out of rooms that are dark and light, then outside, then back inside and have to act fast. I think my R3 is smart enough to meter for me and I can tweak with EV. Yes, is a controlled environment I still use full M, but that's not the norm fo rme.
Using Auto ISO is not automatically bad. Sometimes you just have a second to get a shot off. And in that case i´d rather have Auto ISO give me a usuable image than missing the shot alltogether. However, if you have the time, always go for fully Manual obviously. Luckily its often super easy to switch from Auto ISO to Manual ISO in a matter of Seconds too. So i usually just let my Camera sit on Auto ISO so i never miss a shot, but can always adjust when i know i have a couple of seconds. I cant count the times i´ve missed a great shot oppertunity because i just didnt have the exposure set in time. Also i shoot pretty much exclusively Outdoors and not in spaces where you can control the Light or your subjects and without a Tripod. So that heavily factors into the Decision to have Auto ISO on as the standard.
In the Old film days , I used to take a reading off the road , or grass at football matches to get a fairly accurate exposure
My camera has no light meter in manual mode with non dedicated lenses so I just guess and then adjust as needed
When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold
Exposing to the right also called ETTL nails the exposure every time. It is worth learning.
It was very informative video Thank you
Isnt F8 and up going to make it too dark? Forcing me to use a shutter 1/60 or slower
Well, his approach is oriented tripod landscape. so, shutter speed (and the need of an eventual faster one) will only be a concern if you have moving elements in your landscape, as wind in trees or leaves that could create blur if to slow, moving water, although here, lower shutter speed can be desired for a water blur effect.
Also, one forgets that some landscape pictures like a background or foreground blur sometimes, depending on the scene and wished effect, so f/8 and up is not always an absolute constant, but is when your goal is best planar depth of field sharpness (front to back).
Last, diffraction can kick in with too small apertures, usually f/16 and up and lower with Aps-c over F.Frame.
@@alanalain4884Diffraction is determined by the diameter of the iris. The smaller the diameter (in absolute terms measured in mm) the more diffraction is an issue. It follows that the problem of diffraction induced softness is more of an issue on wide angle lenses than on telephoto lenses.
I have a weeding soon, my first weeding for free . With Flash, what should I do
hey, I think if you're shooting a wedding soon and need help, you should probably search youtube for some specific wedding photography videos and maybe ask those guys - they have better advice than I can give for that type of photography.
An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.
Anyone who can suggest...is it good lens to shoot hiking videos as i have CANON D700.. ....????Tamron AF 18-200mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di ii LD Aspherical (IF) Macro- Nikon fit....
GREAT INFORMATION
Iso dont make a noise ,you can take a picture on highest iso witout noice !
Great tip! That’s exactly my approach
Great video where here, both full manual and bracketing are required or strongly advised . But for everyday use, full manual all the time ? I don't know... And nailing exposure ? That's also why AEL (Auto Exposure Lock) exists. That simple. You can't always let the camera average for the scene, or the scene being averaged with what you focus on, when there is too much dynamic range discrepancy in the scene.
Usually outdoor you can AEL the sky and lift the shadows in post for the rest. There is no other way when your scene has both bright lit and much darker areas than using AEL to avoid blown highlights, or bracket, or under/over expose manually (but most cameras/DSLRs don't allow it in full manual mode, since you force in everything manually, there cannot be any automatic correction - unless if in auto iso, but yet, often camera don't allow exposure compensation function when in full manual, disregarding).
You can also AEL on a midrange between the brightest and darkest area. Here, have to play a bit to get good at guessing where to AEL. Check your histogram on replay to be sure, . Or do exp. bracketing, but it's a little more demanding in post.
Again, many cameras don't allow playing with exposure compensation when in full manual mode. Some do, rare, and some will keep the under/over exposure setting set prior when transiting to manual mode, but again many don't. Under or over expose for getting the right exposure works too though, and I also use it, but more as a known setting for some kind of scene (bird in flight against sky, etc), and on most of my camera brands, I like to be at -1/3rd at all times otherwise. For nailing the exposure I often tend to use more the AEL function than constantly playing with changing my manual exposure setting. Both are super useful features though.
A note toward the beginners that could make a few mistakes thinking they absolutely need to use the full manual mode all the time. Most of the time, you don't need it. It's good to have for tripod landscapes, milky ways and some other stuff, sure, but having to change the settings all the time for each picture is a pain and in reality, when not on tripod, many photographers in everyday use will tend to use aperture or speed (shutter) priority most of the time according to the scene and its needs, and will even often ease themselves further, using auto Iso along. Also, using these 2 modes will bring you back the benefit of being able to use manual exposure compensation if you don't like using AEL, and don't forget than often neither or nor is needed, for often the camera does a good job with its evaluative metering..
Using AEL in manual mode may sometime result (IE: Sony) in getting a P mode equivalent, where to keep the exposure locked, changing aperture or speed will trigger the automatic change of the other to keep the AEL, or as with Canon, will show 2 cursors on the exposure ruler to show you how far you go from the set AEL when changing aperture/speed.
And finally, if you're a beginner just discovering all these manual modes or full manual, still get your favorite scenes in auto mode on the side, at least once per favorite scene, and for two reasons. If you mess up in your first attempts in manual modes, your auto shot may have saved the day, and it will also allow you to see how well the camera works in auto mode with its metering and other stuff like the speed, aperture and Iso it chosen to use compared to what you came with with your purposed manual mode settings...
how to blend photos using dark table
Great video.
Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.
Have you tried the method i demonstrate in this video? It should work regardless of location, although I guess it depends what you mean exactly by terrible lighting.
@@SteveArnoldPhoto dark living room with low light but I'm going to try your method, although it's super scary trying to adjust things worried I'll mess something up.
@@lucy_76just practice. That’s what I did. Constantly. It’s only a photo, no one will die. Enjoy it ❤
@@lucy_76 if youre in low light, start with smaller f number than I suggested (f4 or f2.8 if your lens allows). And start with a higher ISO than I suggested - maybe 800.
Then see what shutter speed you need to use to make the right brightness. Depending HOW dark the room is, it may be ok, otherwise your shots may be blurry because of the shutter speed. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you get on
@@SteveArnoldPhoto thank you, I'm going to try that
flaws.. shooting landscape, is way different than taking a person with landscape or background behind, and not to mention a moving person cause of the skin tone. And another big factor is shooting with or no flash. Noobs, will take if not maybe 2 years to learn manual mode. Camera nowadays are much advance than before, so using some Automatic setting is completely fine. In my case Manual mode is my Shutter Speed, and Aperture, and Auto on ISO, and ETTL on my Flash. Rest is in my head with a basic starting point which I analyze the location lighting condition, so I can determine the SS and Aperture. Then, on some instances, I will apply exposure compensation. Have you seen the latest Phones nowadays, it can take better photos than a beginners and that is in Auto and using a phone.
Outstanding
•Shoot -1, on Camera meter.
•LCD / EVF liveview
•Histogram
•Take a 'test shot', review it, adjust
If you’re allowing the exposure comp range to guide you, you might as well be using some auto mode. There’s nothing wrong with this. But, you might as well use Auto ISO. Otherwise, you’re just chimping anyway.
You only need to use the cameras meter for the first test shot, then one or two adjustments by eye from there and you're set. no chimping required
how to use editing for those that do not have photoshop/lightroom
So auto exposure lock should be off ?
i don't agree with the priority list. ISO setting should be the last of the three for most shots. ISO 100 is just unrealistic for most shots. the only time ISO can be set to 100 (or whatever the base is) before shutter speed is if you're both using a tripod AND the subject is not moving. in that case, the shutter speed can be set as slow as you want to get the desired exposure. any other time where shutter speed can't be too slow, ISO should be set last.
Thank you!