The SECRET To Nailing Your Exposure EVERY TIME
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- Опубликовано: 20 июн 2024
- There’s something pros know about exposure that means they come home from every photo shoot with perfect images, and beginners always ignore it.
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So in this video I’m going to show you a simple method pros use to easily capture perfectly exposed images, without ever having to worry about all the complicated stuff, like calculating stops, ambient light or metering so you never have to worry about missing the shot again.
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This advice is spot on. As a wildlife photog, it’s the single most important thing I did that increased my keeper rate. To illustrate, imagine a bird in flight that moves from a dark forest background up into a bright sky. Left to the camera, settings would change. But as long as the light on the bird remains constant, you don’t want your camera settings changed. Full manual mode ensures that and you don’t have to worry about adjusting settings while trying to track the moving subject. Great video, Steve.
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
I wish I saw this video when I was starting out. You did an amazing job explaining and simplifying all of these settings. Great educational video.
Canon FV mode is what I use. When using the EVF (electronic view finder) outdoors the scene will show you what your photo will look like. FV is almost Manual mode but I find it easier to react and make changes in FV mode.
I can see that this is one way to do it, which works for you. If you want lots of shots with t[exactly the same exposure, then this is a good approach. However, you are still using the camera’s meter, which is what auto mode does. In camera, it is often hard to see whether you have blown particular highlights or crushed the blacks.
I use aperture priority mode (Av) almost all the time. I set the minimum shutter speed to prevent blurring and may alter it depending on the type of shooting. I have the histogram turned on in the viewfinder, so I have a clear indication of whether the exposure is drifting too low or high. Of course, the histogram is also useful in manual mode.
Also shoot in raw to maximise exposure latitude.
For moving wildlife bracketing will not work. Typically a shutter speed of 1/500 - 1/000 sec is used. For birds in flight 1/2000 sec. For humming birds in flight 1/4000 sec. We sometimes have to live with high ISO values and noise post-processing using Topaz Labs software.
2:30 the exposure indicator is calculated using the same algorithm that auto mode uses. If you want a great balanced photo, use your camera settings to dial in your LCD to match what you are seeing in your actual photo and your histogram. When those three things match you have a solid baseline to begin your corrections. Next, depending on your order of priority, go into the settings and set the ma/min auto settings for ISO, aperture, and shutter speed you are willing to accept for this particular photo shoot. If you do this every time you will get good at it. Now put the camera in full Auto and take a few test shots. Look at what values it is using then put your camera in manual mode and fine tune it to what you want to see. Once you have done this process a few times it will become habit and you will be able to dial in the camera very quickly every time.
Thanks. Very helpful
I tried your method and it worked perfect. Easily understood and easy for me. Thank you.
Thats great to hear, thank you!
Steve, you blend entry-level basic information with really useful advice for someone who knows the basics and wants some guidance/reassurance as to the best approach. Thanks for such a clear explanation. My camera (Fujifilm XT-5) is pretty good at handling the noise problem at high ISO levels, so I leave my ISO on auto a lot of the time; I'm much less happy with the Auto-aperture approach (street photography's a different discussion). For some reason, though, I'd drifted away a bit from using full auto: you've given me the confidence to go back to it. Terrific video - thanks so much!
An interesting video. I watch a lot of videos on photography by pros and I've never seen one suggest using manual except in certain circumstances. Usually they they suggest using auto ISO, maybe with a limit. ISO isn't normally used creatively, unless you want noise. Then use shutter or aperture priority depending on what you're shooting. In fast changing lighting I'd guess the camera is better and changing quickly.
When you choose exposure compensation you are choosing the exposure live and then you can lock and hold
I just use the histogram.
I have taken better photos in manual using the +/- scale and the best shots have the histogram way over to the left which of course needs shadow adjustment of the raw file but if you blow the highlights they are are a lot more difficult to fix so I expose for the highlights with the expose scale histogram just goes for the mid tones
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences using both ways 😊❤
Cheers so much, this is easy 😊❤
You're welcome, thanks for letting me know it works for you!
Just bought my first camera, a Canon EOS 2000D Rebel T7 DSLR Camera to get into photography and so far I've only used auto mode because it's so confusing. Most photos I take are indoors with terrible lighting. The only time I get great shots are outside, which is usually not practical. Have watched a lot of videos trying to figure it out and only get more confused. Any suggestions of sites or videos to assist in showing me how to use the different settings is appreciated. Camera bundle also came with 18-55mm Lens as well as Canon EF 85mm F/1.8 USM Lens also comes with the attachable flash.
Have you tried the method i demonstrate in this video? It should work regardless of location, although I guess it depends what you mean exactly by terrible lighting.
@@SteveArnoldPhoto dark living room with low light but I'm going to try your method, although it's super scary trying to adjust things worried I'll mess something up.
@@lucy_76just practice. That’s what I did. Constantly. It’s only a photo, no one will die. Enjoy it ❤
@@lucy_76 if youre in low light, start with smaller f number than I suggested (f4 or f2.8 if your lens allows). And start with a higher ISO than I suggested - maybe 800.
Then see what shutter speed you need to use to make the right brightness. Depending HOW dark the room is, it may be ok, otherwise your shots may be blurry because of the shutter speed. Anyway give it a go and let me know how you get on
@@SteveArnoldPhoto thank you, I'm going to try that
Sorry but I disagree, it all depends on the photo you are taking. Manual mode works superb when things don't change, or does it slowly, if you have to change a photo from a a light surrounding to a dark, the seconds nedded to change the dials, check the eposure meter or better the histogram , the photo opportunity is often gone. Manual is great for "manual shots",
if a photo is ok in iso 100 it will also be ok on iso 200- 400- 800. While a photo with shutterspeed 1/100, 1/60/ 1/30 , 1/15 will most likely be not usable. There is no one setting to rule them all.. I would suggest people learn when to use Aperture & shutterspeed priority.
Iso is just a volume mode, the other two changes how you photos look and feel.
Iso 100... Never use it unless is suppersunny on the beach.
Of course every possible photography question has a "it depends" answer to some degree. I think my video covers most bases, especially in the context of landscape photography.
People who don't know these basic camera sitting just bought the camera to talk about it an have no interest in being a 'pro' photographer 😊
Aperture controls depth of field
Shutter speed controls blur
ISO controls brightness
Simply use as required to get your desired look.
p.s. there is no right or wrong exposure it's all artistic choice
p.p.s. there are no rules in photography
P.p.p.s you're wrong. Both aperture and shutter speed also affect the brightness/exposure of your picture.
Altering brightness is only a secondary effect of adjusting aperture and shutter speed.
Adjusting brightness is the only thing ISO does.
@@grahamniven I know that. But you made it sound as though aperture and shutter speed only affect one thing.
@@Koensol no, you simply chose to interpret it in a specific way.
There's a lot more to learn than "correct" exposure.
First thing to learn, exposure is an artistic choice.
@@grahamniven You literally list 3 things, and say "use as required". Yes, everything is an interpretation, but idk why you would list these things on a video about exposure. Why would you point out shutter speed controls motion blur in a video that is about exposure, which shutter speed also affects, and then say to use as required? Maybe I'm missing something here, but its kinda confusing.
Use the live screen duhhh