Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ruclips.net/user/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Do not follow that link. It's a fraud/scam website. I don't know why or how so many channels keep getting taken over and then spamming these links everywhere.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Do not follow that link. It's a fraud/scam website. I don't know why or how so many channels keep getting taken over and then spamming these links everywhere.
While this is all cool for new builds and great information, I really wish someone would do a series of video's on a budget remodel of older homes. What can we do within reason to make them better and maybe live with some the "design flaws" from those years while making them as livable and long lasting as possible within budget. Basically a 1940's on ward to the 2000's traditional house series. Basically what can we do over time to update our houses. When it comes time to reroof, replace the siding, water heater, furnace etc, what do we do? Maybe a series of best practices that has different levels depending on the budget. I own a 1950's ranch house and my folks have a 70's farm house, both in Michigan.
Old houses come with a slew of problems and thoughtful cost effective new building science solutions is specialized and a lot of work. I do think much of what Matt has covered in other videos is there but a summary video would probaly interest a lot of viewers. Is is better to seal attics when replacing sofits or vent, it doesn't hurt the shingles or sheeting? Including Steve's rules first might be a good way to lay it out. Water, Air, Vapor, thermal
as homeschool mom to soon to be graduate and as one heavily involved in high tech and electronic arts my entire life i want you to know that although you intend your videos for so called professionals, these videos are inspiration for every level, new and old. my son of 17 will learn so much and he is just getting started. thank you for saying who this is intended for, but know your vids reach wide. this is very good.
Im sorry I just caught some of your vocabulary.Some of those overhangs are probably not related to a rook or a large roof , maybe a porch .These are called water tables if it justs shows a symmetrical over hang that keep in the same height from the break ups from your elevation.I have been in 1000 garages and yet to see a rafter in it where the car goes.I do know garages have roofs on them and maybe a bonus room that rafters are put on a knee wall or a plate on the top of your floor on the outside .You talked about rafters in the. garage.Dude it sounds like your. focused way to much on air getting in.A person that catches on to that will rake your wallet into theirs .I want to say I have seen a tray ceiling in a garage.Where there are 34 inch rafters.Im looking up at your floor system .Solid bridging is one of the #1 things that cause squeaky floors.I havent heard you say anything remotely Residential Home ideas.All I have heard you say is that there is air here and air there and its got a 1/4 inch crack here.Guess what the house isnt done yet.
I love how Matt never lets anyone else speak. Matt asks, "tell me about this room." Guest replies, "well this was extended by abo..." Matt immediately interrupts, "made room for the closet, blah blah blah!"
i also notice this in all of his videos, not to bash him because i think his videos are really informative and well put together. i just feel like he needs to allow all theses people he brings on his channel and actual chance to really talk and give feedback without being interrupted and driven off the topic/point they were getting at. Overall great videos though!
I learn so much about house science from Matt. I’m not a builder but I’ve gotten so much information for my little upgrades to my house. It’s cool when you meet a tradesman and you can tell him what you’re looking for. It also helps you to negotiate better prices because they know that you’re knowledgeable.
I've sensed in your videos that you take the "old school" approach to business. That is, you do what was done before advertising. You do what you say, when you said you were going to, with good quality, and a normal market price. Just as craftsmen before advertising, word of mouth keeps you in all the work you want. I can also see, from both your direct comments and the underlying theme of your approach to life, you have the peace to do this because you are the kind of guy that has that "big picture" on life and understand there is a solid path to walk on no matter what storms of market variability or the roller coaster of life throw at you. Keep leading your family with wisdom and intent. Ken - Oregon
Been in love with building science and unconventional techniques for longevity and passive construction for almost twenty years of a career. Absolutely loving watching this house come up. So many of my favorite ideas and concepts getting incorporated! Wish I could spend a day in this house learning even more, direct from the guy(s) responsible!
matt you truly are an inspiration. Love your videos and how informative they are. I have a small hvac company here in south Dallas and I have taken on doing some extra insulation work for houses that are essentially just sheet rock above their ceilings. I feel like a smarter hvac technician just from what i have learned from your videos. Your videos help me do my job. Im a Trane Dealer, my father started the company in '85 when I was born. I love installing Trane equipment and I have even started installing Mitsubishi mini split ac systems for certain circumstances. We haven't gotten to the erv machines yet but ive installed some 95% furnaces in some foam insulated homes. My home is phone insulated, it was built in 60's and i took it down to the studs. I wish I had watched your videos before I started all that 7 years ago because I probably wouldnt have stopped at the studs and pulled a risinger and get down to the slab. I hope I run into you some day maybe at a Trane/Mitzubishi Expo or something, it would truly be an honor to meet you. My Company is Morrison Heating and Air.
this point in history has finally alleviated the stress of making a tight well insulated home with all the electricals to control temp, humidity and fresh air , it's come of age , homes have finally reached a level of comfort which will only see marginal improvements in the years ahead.
"I'm looking at notes. Sorry about that." If you occasionally use notes to ensure the accuracy of the bazillion details you share, no one is going to complain. :) Thanks for the great info in this video and all the others, too!
You are right. I looked into lvl studs and there are few people who could afford them. I’m sure a lot of the items he uses wouldn’t be there without the “advertising donation” but it’s good to know about them.
@@brucestewart3170 oh for sure that's why he brought it up. The frame package for this house costs as much as most people homes. I'm not certain but that could even be just the frame not dried in.
@@brucestewart3170 but this is where the world of stick frame is going to be honest, to make the regulatory requirements that are on the horizon is not going to be possible any other way.
by the time you count all the donations and saving he gets by being his own contractor, this is going to be a 2million dolor house, the the 3 boys still have to share a bedroom
Passive design is also about solar load control. Large roof overhangs that block the sun from hitting the south windows & wall in the summer but in winter the sun can hit the wall and come in through the windows. Often the glass is small on the North, East, & West walls and large on the South. Passive done correctly can help heat the house in winter & cool (shade) the house in summer. All the insulation and airtight details are just conventional energy-conserving construction.
Matt saying he wants to check out if he can go passive house after the fact is as scatter shot as his initial start of this project. If he's going to get certified passive house trained, I would love to see him build one from scratch from the planning to the final certification.
Currently studying for my architecture licensing exams, lots of good info here. One fact I find amazing is that a 1" airspace behind exterior cladding has an insulation value of R-1, with foil-facing on one side it jumps to R-3, with a foil facing on both sides of the airspace you get R-10!
@@COMMANDER-ONE Yessir, air is an excellent insulator. Even with some of it flowing through openings it top and bottom the gap is still retaining some heat. Similar to how sleeves keep your arms warm while being open on one end.
how does having foil on both sides help?? wouldn't that just reflect back the heat trying to be deflected away from the interior wall? I'm not sure if i'm making sense, but I have no way to illustrate.
@@lexpox329 It helps to stop convective currents. So if heat is able to pass through one side of the wall into the other side; you essentially get a current within the air space, where warm air rises, cold air drops, and this happens continuously. Since convection is a form of heat transfer, this increases the amount of heat transfer through walls. If you use a foil faced material on both sides of the air space, it helps keep the heat inside the air space, which helps reduce convective currents and reduce heat transfer
One thing to note is that there are actually two Passive House certifying associations in the U.S. and Canada. One of them is the original from Germany, Passive House Institute (PHI). The other was an offshoot of sorts from PHI, Passive House Institute US (PHIUS). The founder of PHIUS was from Germany and worked with PHI, and came to the US to help advocate Passive House design. She broke away from PHI because she was advocating the different design scenarios for different climate zones, something that PHI did not agree with. Both PHI and PHIUS are recognized in the US and Canada, and either are ok. There isn't too much difference in which certification standard you use.
@@jl9678 that's why we need to accelerate code minimums. Things seem to automatically get cheaper at that point. We have seen where the large national builders have continually lobbied for deferments on code minimums.
@@jl9678 Over the long run, that may not be true. We live in a 29 year old house that has had all kinds of water infiltration issues, air leakage issues and generally shoddy workmanship. It's not a cheap house either being a custom 4500 sq ft home. Electric bills run close to $750 a month in the summer running 3 a/c units in N. Texas because it is so inefficient. Investing in the kind of building technology that Matt is showing would save you a huge amount of headaches and money by not having to correct problems down the road. To quote Kyle Stumpenhorst, buy once - cry once. In other words, get it done right the first time. You get what you pay for when you cheap out.
@@hhanger1 As a long-time builder who has regularly exceeded Matt's standards, and has done a great many costly water intrusion/ damage repair and remediation jobs for nearly a half century, you have put the case accurately and succinctly. Today's production homes are designed to be sold and out of warranty before the failures and major repairs start (and it is usually very soon). Rebuilding the cladding of a 7 year old house (as per my last project) because the living room flooded every time the rains came from that side of the house is pure greed and insanity. You can proportion those out as you see fit (hint: it is not at all ALL on the builders).
Keep in mind Matt’s comment about building a house to last multiple centuries. The initial cost should rightfully be spread over at least a couple hundred years. A concept most of us are not equipped to handle. If we built for a family to stay in the same house for say 300 years, the cost starts to look more reasonable. Many European house have passed through several generations. So, it is possible. The key is quality of the initial house.
Bro you literally are the only dude who would put a roof made of zip and then put another 4 inches of insulation panels and another entire frame on top of the zip and then cover it up with a second zip layer,
I love "nerdy building science"!!! Knowing it is the difference between a 5 year and a 50 year result. I was told that I could never feed myself as a home builder because I am a "furniture builder". Fact is, IF we build houses using furniture building "care", we can have houses that last your quoted 500 years... I grew up in Liberty, Texas.... Water, Vapor, Air, Thermal is even more important there.... and is typically and epic fail in 80%+ of the houses built there in the last 50 years. Uncoupling principle.... works if you use it and control/reject vapor from SOG...
Really glad to see you continuing the 500 year home ideas in building. I really hope these ideas gradually move into the mainstream given just how much you can potentially save generation to generation.
When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think, as we lay stone on stone, that a time is to come when those stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that people will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our parents did for us." credit - John Ruskin
In the Netherlands all new houses must be build with a US r-value of 34 on the roof, 25.5 on the walls and 20 on the floor. (Metric R-values: 6 / 4.5 / 3.5)
The U.S. will not adopt those codes because there’s too much money to made with remodels. We don’t believe in multigenerational building. Unfortunately.
Us has multiple different climate zones, so not sure how those coorelate. In general I've seen cooler climates have higher r value requirements. In parts of Texas, for instance, there's not even a frost line, while in the North, the frost line is several feet underground. It produces significant different construction mentalities. Going so high on insulation is Texas would be so expensive it wouldn't provide significant savings on energy consumption for cooling. Factor in the added greenhouse effect of the additional construction for negligible efficiency gains, and you produce a house that takes significantly long to offset the costs. I do agree in general however, building codes in the US need to be updated and refined though. There's just so many companies that catake advantage and lawmakers don't have nearly enough to be useful.
The United States (9.8 million sq km) is also more than 200 times the size of the Netherlands (41,000 sq km). The country includes humid continental, sub-tropical, semi-arid, arid, subarctic, and polar climates. Each local area has to adjust building codes to suit the local climate and geography. Comparing the two is like apples and a llama.
You insulate cold drinks on a hot day as well as hot drinks on a cold day... why wouldn't you insulate your (ideally) cold house in a hot climate? You like the hot getting in?
@@lisatorry6758 What matters is the difference in temperature. Average min/max is 22°F/104°F in Austin, but 65-75°F is very comfortable, resulting in a delta of 43°F/29°F in extreme cases. In the average case (41.5°F/97.0°F, delta 23.5°F/22.0°F) in a well-designed house, the HVAC system will only occasionally turn on (the heat will almost never be necessary considering body heat, sunlight through windows, and misc. electronics). At some point, the cost of more insulation will be greater than the cost of the systems to cool and heat the home, even over time. It's why R-100 isn't required, for example.
Wow this went from the Real Remodel to the Spare No Expense Remodel. Ultimate goal is to build the perfect house, you are blessed to have this opportunity. Looks great, thanks for sharing.
That Study/Den on the upper floor is a great idea. I'm incorporating similar spaces in a lot of my designs which I'll be putting out later this year as stock plans for purchase online. I like to think of them as play/study spaces, a spot near the children's bedrooms where they can do their own thing, even socialize with their friends, while the adults may be downstairs socializing as well. They offer a lot of flexibility.
Well, we all know where Matt lives now. I’m working on soon building a Barndominium. Love these tips! Very excited. This has got to be my favorite/ best build series.
it seems they have the flexibility to have their own spaces though. once their daughter is out of the house, there is her room and the bonus room in their suite, making three total bedrooms on the upper level
Unless he was planning on selling this house, he shouldn't be able to deduct the cost. It's his personal residence. I'm not a CPA but I do own my business and there are a lot of rules around deducting personal expenses.
Howard's Channel probably assigning some of the costs of this job to other customers projects. I worked on a project with a construction project manager of one of my subcontractors. He was involved as an alumni at his old college fraternity. He used to send his subcontractors to the frat house to do repairs and bill them to the legitimate projects he was running. The costs would get buried and lumped in with change orders to make up the costs. A lot of the self employed subs wouldn’t care if they were getting paid extra on another job as long as it all washed out evenly. Extra cost on a customer project means less profit and less income tax. Not accusing Risinger of any unfair practices but I know this is quite common with builders.
@@ELIRAXPRT > probably assigning some of the costs of this job to other customers projects. > ... > Not accusing Risinger of any unfair practices If you *were* accusing Risinger of unfair practices, what would you say differently?
@@jmcdonne right, this was basically a thinly veiled money laundering accusation but I guess I'm mistaken because he said he isn't saying Matt's using unfair practices. Which as the cynical cranky asshole I have become will tell you, if everyone does it...it's not unfair just illegal
Don't put solar on the lower roof. When the snow on the upper roof slides off, it will land on the lower roof. If the solar panels are there, it may damage them. (edit: Austin gets ZERO snow, so viewers that get snow should consider that.) Also, take into account all of the shading you have. Have the solar install company use a meter that they hold on the roof in different spots. it knows where the sun is throughout the year and will calculate the blockage of the shading. I'm not sure what you call it, but it's predictions were spot on with my solar array. If you get 15% shading, install enough solar to overcome that or cut down some trees. Asthetically, I would fill the upper roof with solar panels edge to edge with offsets. It just looks better. Also, some panels operate better at higher temperatures than others. Hitachi HIT is one example. But there are others. See if you can get the solar contractor to use the 1meter X 2 meter (72 cell) size panels instead of the (60 cell) size you will end up with 2 rows instead of 3 rows for the same output. If you run a pure string inverter system, you will lose most of the output if some of the panels are shaded. Use micro-inverters(enphase) or optimizers(solar edge) on the panels to deal with the shading issues. If an electric car or truck is in your future, they take about 10 kwh each per day based on 12000 miles per year. I would also install a water collection system and store some of the water to use on the lawn and garden. Rain water is naturally soft and is much better for plants. I love the house build. I would love to see how much you would have charged a customer to build the same house without all of the Freebies.
Hello from Toronto!!! As an architectural technologies it’s great to see people in other climates sharing our standard practices, thanks for all the details and information!!
I love most of what has been done with the design and how the house was sealed up. I wish more builders and designers would add a radiant barrier to the house as you did. However, I do believe that you missed one area where a radiant barrier would be worth the slightly added cost of doing so. Heat transmits by radiant energy, by convection energy and/or conduction. You are placing your roofing directly onto the Zip System roofing. Thereby creating a conduction zone. Yes, you do have 4" or approximately R26 insulation. Why not add a radiant barrier on the roof, install furring strips over that, bug screens top and bottom, and let the heat of the sun create a moving layer of insulation to take that added heat energy out via ridge line vent? Moving air does have an R value, granted a very small value, but the column of moving air through that cavity will reduce the heat load that will conduct through the roof, roof insulation, and Zip sheathing and into your attic. You are adding foam insulation on top of the slab. You made the statement that you would have a complete thermal barrier all the way around your house. This is not a 100% accurate statement. You do have the bottom of your walls in contact with the slab. This will create a small thermal break in an otherwise complete shell around the living spaces of the house. Does the TX building code allow for the use of the high density foams, the ones 1000 PSI to 1500 PSI compression strength foams? I realize that it is too late for this to be added. But, it is food for thought for a future build. I know some of the readers of this will take this as criticism of what Matt has build. This is not the case. I admire him for the level of detail that he has done with the building of his new home. This is a level of detail that I wish every construction firm in America would emulate. There are far too many construction firms that build ONLY to the minimal code required by law. The laws much change, and the building practices of these backwards firms be updated to reflect modern practices. Excellent practices, like what Matt has demonstrated time after time in this latest videos and site builds.
Chris Aldridge the roof points you make are my exact thoughts. A rain screen/air barrier on the roof would increase efficiency and add better dry through if there was ever a leak in the roof. I’m thinking of doing exterior insulation on my remodel but Using a metal roof and instead of the extra layer of sheathing just use Battons(purlin style) on the roof.
I'm 100% sure he will not put a standing seam roof right on top of the zip sheathing. He didn't do it in his house across the street. That house has a roof underlayment, he then screwed furring strips at a 45 degree angle and the standing seam screwed to that. I expect him to one up that house.
We all anticipate a vented roof assembly, good idea in Austin. In my part of Front Range Colorado, woodland fire regs prohibit any kind of venting, so the compact roof assembly is by far the best choice, in my opinion and practice. And I have done compact roof assemblies successfully for over 40 years, in Mass and CO. The bit about wall on slab is pertinent. Matt should be criticized for being super anal about some things, then completely ignoring issues that are probably bigger. Around here, we are always on a crawl or basement, and we do totally conditioned spaces (either way). The 2" continuous is carried down to top of footer. No comfort or moisture problems anywhere, any time.
First heard about Passive houses “passivehaus” as a student in Germany many years ago. It’s so great seeing guys like Matt pushing to make this the new standard in the US. Awesome!
So many beautiful details have gone into this house. Kudos to you Matt, and the whole crew, for taking this thing to the next level! Thanks for sharing everything with us!
Issue also is economics, no one wants to pay for a 500 year house. Champagne taste on a beer budget they would rather have the pretty quartz countertops than a well built green home. What is the cost per sq ft to build?
Most people don't think ahead. The cost savings of a home at this level are accrued throughout the operational life of the structure. It's the proverbial "buy once, cry once".
Current US culture, we have voted with our wallets for glitz and size. And getting out before the s**t hits the fan; the next buyer counts on getting out from under in a timely fashion as well. There is no problem with technology, only with the consuming public. Last project was an $80k leak repair on a seven year old house. When rains came from the north, the living room floor was 1/3 covered in standing water. The seller failed to disclose (they had a half-assed "fix" done to hide the problems). Tough thing is that the house needs about another $200k to make right, and worse, virtually all the houses in the "New Community" suffer from water problems, as well. Great for the repair industry, come in a kludge a crappy "fix" on these p[laces until they finally are abandoned. The issue is economics (whose and when??).
Daryl Kupchanko houses are too big nowadays for most people to build efficiently. people should get over their egos and build responsibly. quality over quantity
Where do all these insulation products end up in 50/100 years? We need more affordable, environmentally friendly options Matt. How about hire density housing, sharing a wall with a neighbour, how do we make that wall sound proof\/fire proof how do we design for less impact. It needs to be in the conversation, each time you do a video, I think. Thanks, love the show!
Imagine watching this after the recent Texas winter storm and power blackouts. All the lives and burst pipes that could've been saved with better engineering like this. I was lucky enough to have a fireplace and I can't tell you how much wood I had to burn just to keep it barrable in the living room. A lot more people in the area were not as lucky though. I live in an older late 70's home and look forward to retrofitting as much as I can for energy savings. Especially when it comes to good insulation.
@@SigmaDG The costs totally depend on which part of the country you're building in. It's also important to consider where cost savings can be achieved. A house with a very efficient shell can have a smaller HVAC system. Also operating costs over the life of the house are lower.
I have been told by Tesla "no solar roof for new construction yet" Also, he said he's doing standing seam metal, but I like where your head is at Reilly.
@@jims.4785 Standing seam costs more but there are very nice solar panel mounts you can get that just clamp onto the seam without damaging it. That roof can probably outlast the useful life of a solar panel many times over. I personally prefer the utility of an easily replaceable clamp-on array.
cool architect Matt! in the intro he basically said "Pitch me business solutions that'll get me to work with you" - marketing 101. Build homes that fit the neighborhood - that mindset doesnt exist in wayne, nj. new home designs are all over the place... anyway, great start to the video! Always enjoy your content
When you get to running electrical and such, wire for Ethernet, at least 2 drops per room (of Cat6a or Cat7) and a run to each outside corner of your house at the sophets (sp?) this will allow you to add a really nice security system and home internet. I recommend Ubiquiti Networks UniFi gear. You won't be disappointed and it will be way easier to do now than to try to retrofit.
I would also go as far as to put these ethernet drops in conduit if doing new construction, so 10 or 20 years down the road when there is a new standard it can be changed out. Agree with you on the UniFi gear, during these COVID-19 times when other people are having a lot of WiFi issues, my UniFi system has help up and my family is online without any issues.
8' is okay if the rooms are small, like 19th and early 20th century houses. Mid- and late-20th century open plan houses though... yeah 8' is absolutely claustrophobic.
Great episode. Will the house be all electric? Might make sense with solar (& batteries). Don't forget to rough out a leg of 220v in the garage for your future electric truck. Has the White House called about your 'perfect wall?' Ha, ha.
Matt, really amazing build. I'm amazed by the level of detail, everything is quite literally over-engineered. If I have the cash, I'd love to borrow some of the technology from this one. That being said, 99% of people buying a 1970s build aren't going to be tearing 80% of the structure down like you did.. It's not cost effective and no one has the means to do that in reality. 3" floor is going to limit the headroom and is incredibly over the top, especially in the south. Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed with your build beyond what I can get into words but I don't think anyone is going to be able to replicate much of it.
I do like the passive house concept and was introduced to it as a teenager back in Germany. I admit I’m not a fan of electrical life support systems for a house. But part of that is a question of location. My preferred method of heating is wood as it’s an abundant source in my neck of the woods. And I’m a fan of fresh air. My grandma always shook out the bedsheets and let them air in the open window. But I also understand that different climate zones may need different approaches in management. So while I doubt I will have anything resembling your heating and cooling system, I do believe a powerful dehumidifier can be a valuable addition in humid summer months. Combined with ceiling fans. One major reason why I am not a fan of the perfectly conditioned space is that I believe we should want to be more connected to the natural outside world. I want a smaller, living space and a larger outdoor space. I don’t want my children to live in an apartment within my house. Bedrooms are for sleeping. Living rooms are for living. And anyone hanging out on the couch with the TV on during the day will get kicked out. Plenty of space to entertain and explore outdoors. I know that’s easier on my 10 acres then it’s on a city lot. Bottom line: we don’t disagree on design and efficiency aspects, but rather on what we want to prioritize in daily living. What do you think of Aluminum trusses and interior framing?
Curt Allen here Matt.Been watching from day 1.I been building for over 38 years.I have watched your home go up and 9 foot walls are great.You talked about the materials you used.I love your Ideas and concept on building a better home.I have invented a few things for advanced home builds.My reason for texting does not have disrespect for how you built your home but for maybe your health.I will start on the materials you love.Lvl studs,If you use those you need lvl seal plates.Lets start with 1st floor Lvl Floor joists.That are put together with glue as does every piece of wood in your home.Even the Osb that wraps the whole house.Rafters second floor joists all you Advan Tec.Plus install of Advan tec needs glue.Not including your LVLS.Im sure every piece of wood is not manufactured with glue.I know from it being 5 Degrees outside what wood burns the best and you have the best.That is not even my concern.My concern is 95% LVL Wood is put together with formaldehyde glue.Which there has been no long term study on the effects of the inhaling and handling by your contractor.Also how much is it going to effect you living in the house for the next 50 years. Formaldehyde has been studied in a short term test.The very first word I see and went right over to tell you was PSYCHOTIC TENDENCIES.This is no joke.I didn't even do back And read the Others. Check it out Matt .Need more Home Shows.I have some great ideas on passive homes and self sufficient home.I am Commercially and Hurricane certified. Curt Allen .I am in the process of retiring but starting another company for homeowners to be able to build their home without getting ripped off by contractors.Matt stay healthy .Curt Allen Owner of Upstate and Design .
Love your series and thoughtful approach to the evolution of quality construction! Question: Rockwool versus EnergyShield versus Zip system R Wall? Several months ago I figured you’d go Zip.....then several weeks ago I figured you’d go with Rockwool...and here you are with Energy shield. Zip System R Wall is striking to me since it’s all in one. Only missing that reflectivity. Thoughts here?
Greatly appreciate your videos and to how educational they are. Living in Wisconsin I’ve taken many of your ideas as recommendations to control water around the house and moisture and air movement. Nicely done, thank you!
It might be too late but I would suggest an actual stairway to the attic. My parents did that when they built their house in the early 90s. It makes it so much easier to get up and down and to cart stuff up there. And when your boys get older one of them is going to want to move into the attic.
When i helped a friend do her basement we used the dri-core and i could not believe the difference. I love what your doing and cant wait to see it not only finished but all steps in between
He said solar, I am a huge solar supporter and fan and am excited for him to be looking into solar, So excited to see how he does and I hope he adds battery that is also a thing anyone with solar needs.
Can you give a rundown on the added costs of passive house design vs traditional methods during one of these videos? It would be great to go this route, but average home prices for standard construction in the suburbs of Washington D.C. start in the $500,000 range. Can’t imagine what the added material costs would be.
Wish I could offer details but I can't. So much depends on local costs. But even more depends on how you prioritize your budget. For example, basically the labor cost of installing a junkie window is nearly the same as properly installing a high quality window. So why not put that unavoidable labor cost into a higher quality product? This concept applies to a lot of features. Insulation is another challenging area because there are many ways to accomplish higher quality but the various approaches may impact other aspects of construction. Matt's continuous insulation envelop will give excellent results, but it does add complications to door and window installation which don't arise when all your insulation is in the stud bay. So there it's worth looking at whether the trade-off is worth it. Maybe it's worth upgrading insulation to spray foam between the stud bays to achieve a high, if not highest R-value, while avoiding the complications to door and window installations. If you're building a new house, depending on local sourcing SIPS may be an affordable way to upgrade. Properly assembled they can give extreme air tightness and very high insulation levels. If you design a house with a super-efficient shell then you have the opportunity to save cost by reducing the size of your HVAC plant. But your HVAC designer/contractor needs to be reminded not to oversize equipment. Finally, of course, you need to consider the long term reduced operating costs due to lower energy use if you want to do a proper evaluation compared to standard construction.
The cost difference between Passive House design vs traditional "code compliant" design depends on whether you are building new construction or a retrofit. For retrofits like Matt's house here, it would definitely cost somewhat more because it is more difficult to air-seal and insulate all the existing nooks and crannies needed to meet the Passive House retrofit criteria. With that said, you can get 80-90% of the numbers needed to certify a Passive House design and still have significantly lower heating/cooling bills and much better thermal comfort than a normal "code compliant" house. Oftentimes, chasing the last 10-20% of the numbers can add significant cost to the project. IMO, sometimes good enough is good enough, especially if you're getting 80-90% of the way there. But for new construction, it is significantly easier to detail everything correctly to meet Passive House new construction standards. Project professionals have quoted 5-10% higher cost compared to new construction in the past few years, and I have even heard that it costs basically the same as normal "code compliant" construction. One of the key tenets to Passive House design criteria is that you will spend significantly less on mechanical equipment to heat and cool the building. This is where much of the savings comes in terms of initial construction cost. With lower heating/cooling demand, the mechanical equipment is sized significantly smaller, which lowers the cost of purchasing and installing this equipment. There is the extra cost of installing an HRV/ERV, but these not only greatly improve occupant health, but are sometimes even mandated by some energy codes for new construction and significant retrofits (NY City has mandated them in its 2020 energy code, for instance). Another factor to consider is the lifetime service costs. We should all understand that Passive House buildings will have significantly lower heating and cooling costs. The savings per month can be anywhere from 50%-90% of the HVAC bills. But another factor to consider is the durability of the construction. If designed correctly, Passive House buildings should last significantly longer than "code compliant" buildings. This is because the various air-sealing and humidity reduction measures result in a significantly lower chance of mold to form in the walls, insulation, and structural members. Less mold equals not only better indoor air quality, but lower retrofit costs in the future. In "code compliant" buildings, owners often have to rip out insulation and lumber due to mold rot, which adds to the future cost of constrution.
Hi Shaun . . . Not even that . . . Two properties we have re-modeled - Tape failure/ adhesive failure throughout - 10 year & 8 year only . Top brand tapes .
Thank you both. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the “high end” tapes. I don’t trust the coating on the zip wall Ian either. Tyvek isn’t the answer either. I’ve pulled cedar siding off a house with tyvek and there were holes in the house wrap. I think either peel and stick or spray on is the way to go. Like a friend of mine in commercial waterproofing says, a hole in house wrap means water from there all the way down.
Alway insulate under the slab, not on top. Maintain the thermal capacity within the home. Then you can do radiant heat tubing within the slab too. In the north this is king.
Better to do a conditioned crawl. Future-proofs the plumbing, makes the floor assembly cheaper and more reliable. And these days, high thermal mass is not necessary, or necessarily desirable. We prefer low-mass radiant heat (eg Warmboard), and have very happy occupants with this.
oof the one girl get her own bathroom and the biggest bedroom while the boys have to *share* a smaller room with no bathroom guess they're not trying to hide their favorite huh? lol
A 'perfect wall' and a perfect building would be a modest-sized regular structure with no garish complicated projections or protrusions. Outside wall takes all the weight and environmental stresses. Inside main floor and ceiling built of hollow-core c/c panels, transferring all weight to the walls. Very open interior, heated with radiant masonry stove with exterior air, fuel and ash-outs. A rectangular footprint with Frank Lloyd Wright style. Walls would be of pre-cast pre-stressed insulated sandwich panels, erected by crane onto a 'red-iron' frame in a couple of days. Inner panel wythe is structural, with furring strips for vapour barrier and gyprock on the very inside. Middle layer is insulation, maybe 6 inches, bound to the first wythe. Exterior layer is a thinnner, cosmetic and water-seal layer bound to the central insulation. Structural wythe already has all conduit/plumbing cast into it, as well as all attachment points for welding and/or bolting, in the factory. A precision deal all around. Supremely solid, quiet, stable and secure. Fast erection and conclusion of the weather envelope. No brigades of hammer-bangers on site for months, no site-build detail errors all over the place.
I saw that too. Then went to street view. Nice neighborhood. I'm from Canada. Then I seen how close it is to the Mexican border... thinking that it's a good thing that there's authority managing the borders.
@@EATSLEEPJD I'm a commercial driver. For distance is a different thing that most people. Smugglers and infiltrators have a different perspective than most people.
Funny how real estate seems to ignore the construction of a home when pricing these days. All they care about is bed/bath numbers, square feet and average price of the homes in the neighborhood. I've asked realtors for heating/cooling costs and documentation on wall construction/insulation etc and they give me the "uhhhhhhh Thats not available"
Thats what you should expect if ur buying a cooking cutter home in a suburb. People who seek out land and builders will spend the extra money for well built home.
26:46 was an almost perfect prediction of the next Texas winter that came. My new build is being done according to the Passive House standards after that one.
Doesn't the foam insulation effectively become structural when you bolt things through it? How does it handle torqueing, crushing, and shear forces that aren't directly pushing or pulling on the bolts?
All the structural properties are from the initial Zip System sheathing, assuming they follow the correct fastener and fastener pattern. The foam insulation is not structural in this instance, It's simply fastened to the sheathing. The battens will further secure the foam insulation as they are attached beyond the foam, initial sheathing and to then framing.
Hi Matt, I was very interested in the insulated slab idea you were talking about but over your shoulder was some wood, it looked like early layout of a room but there was no inhalation under it? Is it going to be removed or what, the way it is now seems to contradict your slab insulation statement.
A most excellent walk through and primer on PH principles Matt and I thankyou for it. Good to see you and your architect sympathetic to the neighbourhood aesthetic too.
Would this "monopoly framing" method even fly in Northern Lower Michigan (zone 6)? I'm concerned about hacking off the rafters and THEN frame the overhang...since we deal with snow loads and such. Any insight(s)?
The oldest girl gets the largest room, while 3 boys share a smaller room. If my kids had to share the boys would have gotten the larger room, while the girl got her own (but smaller) room
Couple thoughts. When thinking of longevity, it seems all those old houses were masonry, timber or log homes. The whole point of stick frame is cheaper/quicker construction. At what point do we get that we are trying to improve an inferior construction method that we turn the cheaper construction into being more expensive than the stronger and longer lasting building methods? It seems that if you are wrapping in insulation, you are basically doing what they do for timber frames with sips panels. Why not just do that? Or build a log house and wrap with insulation then minimal framing to attach siding? As someone without much budget, hoping to build a house in the north, I’m just looking at the expense of your house and wondering if it’s worth it at that point. Also, passive house where you have to survive without electricity is a manufactured problem. With a wood burning stove and a supply of firewood, you don’t need electricity. You can keep warm in a tent.
You should know by now that Matt will never reveal. And this particular endeavor is more of a vanity project, so the real numbers will skew in ways that he will lose audience, or at least come under heavy fire.
@@leestevens446 Heck with EVERY wrong move he's made I'd hate/love to see what the final costs are. Besides the donations/contributions he gets for doing this show, you know he's not paying full freight for architect fees/drafts/consulting.
you can use bermed earth to make your house more passive too Matt, glazing facing south, you can even put dirt on the roof for insulation or thermal mass
you need a staircase into the attic......do it now or you will regret it later.....been there done that.....my cool attic looks exactly the same with windows on each side, 9 ft ceiling center 8/12 pitch, 56ft long
Passive House and NetZero are two different concept, although the result may ends up to be similar. NetZero is aiming to generate same amount of energy on site that the house could use, while Passive house is more about creating a super insulated envelope to minimize energy usage.
Great show Matt 👍👍 you give so much great information and insulation on outside of framing is such a great idea. Please make more videos like this one that explains everything like you did.Great job 🇺🇸👍
Such a gorgeous book - each shed is unique and inspiring, and I love all the tiny details Kotite features to help readers imagine how to create their own She Sheds ruclips.net/user/postUgkxe9yi0sulKgsp0VJJCIrLWWkvVqcU7LFR . The feature on Dinah's Rustic Retreat is like something from a fairy tale. It's really inspiring to see how creative all these ordinary people are in making beautiful and useful spaces on a modest scale.
Do not follow that link. It's a fraud/scam website. I don't know why or how so many channels keep getting taken over and then spamming these links everywhere.
the author does like to from scratch, shaping and trimming wood from large blocks into fine finished products. ruclips.net/user/postUgkxD-QRFQz730FJEh4f9BYSf-nkIMIC9hL_ as another reviewer mentioned, most projects require a lot of high-dollar equipment that most of us dont have the room or budget for. But, knowing how to do these things, even if we wont be able to practice the full stack project, is still great.
Do not follow that link. It's a fraud/scam website. I don't know why or how so many channels keep getting taken over and then spamming these links everywhere.
While this is all cool for new builds and great information, I really wish someone would do a series of video's on a budget remodel of older homes. What can we do within reason to make them better and maybe live with some the "design flaws" from those years while making them as livable and long lasting as possible within budget. Basically a 1940's on ward to the 2000's traditional house series. Basically what can we do over time to update our houses. When it comes time to reroof, replace the siding, water heater, furnace etc, what do we do? Maybe a series of best practices that has different levels depending on the budget. I own a 1950's ranch house and my folks have a 70's farm house, both in Michigan.
Ditto!
there's this thing called Google, a great aid to doing research - might want try it ~
This old house?
Old houses come with a slew of problems and thoughtful cost effective new building science solutions is specialized and a lot of work. I do think much of what Matt has covered in other videos is there but a summary video would probaly interest a lot of viewers. Is is better to seal attics when replacing sofits or vent, it doesn't hurt the shingles or sheeting? Including Steve's rules first might be a good way to lay it out. Water, Air, Vapor, thermal
@@theothertroll just because its on the internet doesn't mean its the best way. There are good, better and best options.
as homeschool mom to soon to be graduate and as one heavily involved in high tech and electronic arts my entire life i want you to know that although you intend your videos for so called professionals, these videos are inspiration for every level, new and old. my son of 17 will learn so much and he is just getting started. thank you for saying who this is intended for, but know your vids reach wide. this is very good.
Im sorry I just caught some of your vocabulary.Some of those overhangs are probably not related to a rook or a large roof , maybe a porch .These are called water tables if it justs shows a symmetrical over hang that keep in the same height from the break ups from your elevation.I have been in 1000 garages and yet to see a rafter in it where the car goes.I do know garages have roofs on them and maybe a bonus room that rafters are put on a knee wall or a plate on the top of your floor on the outside .You talked about rafters in the. garage.Dude it sounds like your. focused way to much on air getting in.A person that catches on to that will rake your wallet into theirs .I want to say I have seen a tray ceiling in a garage.Where there are 34 inch rafters.Im looking up at your floor system .Solid bridging is one of the #1 things that cause squeaky floors.I havent heard you say anything remotely Residential Home ideas.All I have heard you say is that there is air here and air there and its got a 1/4 inch crack here.Guess what the house isnt done yet.
@@katyanna1999 I suggest you copy/paste this comment into the main comment section. Here it's only a mistakenly placed reply to Anais Lake's comment.
I like how your Architect smiles while you are talking to us on camera.
West Virginia The architect gave up on talking early on so he figured the best way he could perform on the video was smile and nod lol
I love how Matt never lets anyone else speak. Matt asks, "tell me about this room." Guest replies, "well this was extended by abo..." Matt immediately interrupts, "made room for the closet, blah blah blah!"
ezDwm i know it was driving me a little crazy
I know!!! Drives me nuts!!!
he definitely likes the sound of his voice....
I don’t mind Matt rambling on. I just wonder why he invited the guy to do the video.
i also notice this in all of his videos, not to bash him because i think his videos are really informative and well put together. i just feel like he needs to allow all theses people he brings on his channel and actual chance to really talk and give feedback without being interrupted and driven off the topic/point they were getting at. Overall great videos though!
I learn so much about house science from Matt. I’m not a builder but I’ve gotten so much information for my little upgrades to my house. It’s cool when you meet a tradesman and you can tell him what you’re looking for. It also helps you to negotiate better prices because they know that you’re knowledgeable.
I've sensed in your videos that you take the "old school" approach to business. That is, you do what was done before advertising. You do what you say, when you said you were going to, with good quality, and a normal market price. Just as craftsmen before advertising, word of mouth keeps you in all the work you want. I can also see, from both your direct comments and the underlying theme of your approach to life, you have the peace to do this because you are the kind of guy that has that "big picture" on life and understand there is a solid path to walk on no matter what storms of market variability or the roller coaster of life throw at you. Keep leading your family with wisdom and intent. Ken - Oregon
I think you're reading too much into it.
Hands down my favorite builder/channel on RUclips!! 🔥
Been in love with building science and unconventional techniques for longevity and passive construction for almost twenty years of a career. Absolutely loving watching this house come up. So many of my favorite ideas and concepts getting incorporated! Wish I could spend a day in this house learning even more, direct from the guy(s) responsible!
matt you truly are an inspiration. Love your videos and how informative they are. I have a small hvac company here in south Dallas and I have taken on doing some extra insulation work for houses that are essentially just sheet rock above their ceilings. I feel like a smarter hvac technician just from what i have learned from your videos. Your videos help me do my job. Im a Trane Dealer, my father started the company in '85 when I was born. I love installing Trane equipment and I have even started installing Mitsubishi mini split ac systems for certain circumstances. We haven't gotten to the erv machines yet but ive installed some 95% furnaces in some foam insulated homes. My home is phone insulated, it was built in 60's and i took it down to the studs. I wish I had watched your videos before I started all that 7 years ago because I probably wouldnt have stopped at the studs and pulled a risinger and get down to the slab. I hope I run into you some day maybe at a Trane/Mitzubishi Expo or something, it would truly be an honor to meet you. My Company is Morrison Heating and Air.
this point in history has finally alleviated the stress of making a tight well insulated home with all the electricals to control temp, humidity and fresh air , it's come of age , homes have finally reached a level of comfort which will only see marginal improvements in the years ahead.
"I'm looking at notes. Sorry about that."
If you occasionally use notes to ensure the accuracy of the bazillion details you share, no one is going to complain. :)
Thanks for the great info in this video and all the others, too!
And less than a year later, the president of the United States cannot even speak publicly without notecards...
Matt, please, you absolutely must share the financials at the end of this project. I know it won't be pretty, but it would be awesome content.
Very expensive materials. CheP foreign labor.
You are right. I looked into lvl studs and there are few people who could afford them. I’m sure a lot of the items he uses wouldn’t be there without the “advertising donation” but it’s good to know about them.
What model window does jeld wen make that’s a certified passive house window? Just curious
@@brucestewart3170 oh for sure that's why he brought it up. The frame package for this house costs as much as most people homes. I'm not certain but that could even be just the frame not dried in.
@@brucestewart3170 but this is where the world of stick frame is going to be honest, to make the regulatory requirements that are on the horizon is not going to be possible any other way.
by the time you count all the donations and saving he gets by being his own contractor, this is going to be a 2million dolor house, the the 3 boys still have to share a bedroom
Didn't he say each boy had a bedroom upstairs and show those rooms?
Passive design is also about solar load control. Large roof overhangs that block the sun from hitting the south windows & wall in the summer but in winter the sun can hit the wall and come in through the windows. Often the glass is small on the North, East, & West walls and large on the South. Passive done correctly can help heat the house in winter & cool (shade) the house in summer. All the insulation and airtight details are just conventional energy-conserving construction.
Matt saying he wants to check out if he can go passive house after the fact is as scatter shot as his initial start of this project. If he's going to get certified passive house trained, I would love to see him build one from scratch from the planning to the final certification.
Currently studying for my architecture licensing exams, lots of good info here.
One fact I find amazing is that a 1" airspace behind exterior cladding has an insulation value of R-1, with foil-facing on one side it jumps to R-3, with a foil facing on both sides of the airspace you get R-10!
A one inch air gap is R-1 even with the bottom open with the bug guard?
@@COMMANDER-ONE Yessir, air is an excellent insulator. Even with some of it flowing through openings it top and bottom the gap is still retaining some heat. Similar to how sleeves keep your arms warm while being open on one end.
how does having foil on both sides help?? wouldn't that just reflect back the heat trying to be deflected away from the interior wall? I'm not sure if i'm making sense, but I have no way to illustrate.
@@lexpox329 It helps to stop convective currents. So if heat is able to pass through one side of the wall into the other side; you essentially get a current within the air space, where warm air rises, cold air drops, and this happens continuously. Since convection is a form of heat transfer, this increases the amount of heat transfer through walls. If you use a foil faced material on both sides of the air space, it helps keep the heat inside the air space, which helps reduce convective currents and reduce heat transfer
Take a drink every time Matt says, "We're gonna talk about passive house in a minute".
Dis whevdos bd idf
Man, you got me on that one.
I’m not going to make it through the video
I'm drunk already.. loll
Bad idea I blacked out.
One thing to note is that there are actually two Passive House certifying associations in the U.S. and Canada. One of them is the original from Germany, Passive House Institute (PHI). The other was an offshoot of sorts from PHI, Passive House Institute US (PHIUS). The founder of PHIUS was from Germany and worked with PHI, and came to the US to help advocate Passive House design. She broke away from PHI because she was advocating the different design scenarios for different climate zones, something that PHI did not agree with.
Both PHI and PHIUS are recognized in the US and Canada, and either are ok. There isn't too much difference in which certification standard you use.
i wounder if they have an association to measure the longest continuous shit taken... sounds like a JDpower type busy body "certification/award"
I think PHI has climate zones now. Funny because that’s what their whole breakup was about if I recall.
@@SpaghettiMarinarable
Yeah, I recall seeing climate zones in PHI now. Ironic, isn't it? 😆
I'd love a rough price comparison between building like this vs traditional methods. Great episode, thanks for sharing!
you'll never recoup your cost vs going code minimum
@@jl9678 that's why we need to accelerate code minimums. Things seem to automatically get cheaper at that point. We have seen where the large national builders have continually lobbied for deferments on code minimums.
@@jl9678 Over the long run, that may not be true. We live in a 29 year old house that has had all kinds of water infiltration issues, air leakage issues and generally shoddy workmanship. It's not a cheap house either being a custom 4500 sq ft home. Electric bills run close to $750 a month in the summer running 3 a/c units in N. Texas because it is so inefficient. Investing in the kind of building technology that Matt is showing would save you a huge amount of headaches and money by not having to correct problems down the road. To quote Kyle Stumpenhorst, buy once - cry once. In other words, get it done right the first time. You get what you pay for when you cheap out.
@@hhanger1 As a long-time builder who has regularly exceeded Matt's standards, and has done a great many costly water intrusion/ damage repair and remediation jobs for nearly a half century, you have put the case accurately and succinctly. Today's production homes are designed to be sold and out of warranty before the failures and major repairs start (and it is usually very soon). Rebuilding the cladding of a 7 year old house (as per my last project) because the living room flooded every time the rains came from that side of the house is pure greed and insanity. You can proportion those out as you see fit (hint: it is not at all ALL on the builders).
Keep in mind Matt’s comment about building a house to last multiple centuries. The initial cost should rightfully be spread over at least a couple hundred years. A concept most of us are not equipped to handle. If we built for a family to stay in the same house for say 300 years, the cost starts to look more reasonable. Many European house have passed through several generations. So, it is possible. The key is quality of the initial house.
Bro you literally are the only dude who would put a roof made of zip and then put another 4 inches of insulation panels and another entire frame on top of the zip and then cover it up with a second zip layer,
When you move in do your actual bills comparison vs similar square footage 80s house on RUclips
Matt is such a nice guy. Love hearing him talk about his passion for building.
love the continuous exterior insulation envelope with the overhangs added after...smart
so what happens to the fasteners that go in to hang the overhangs, do they not pierce the air tight envelope?
I love "nerdy building science"!!! Knowing it is the difference between a 5 year and a 50 year result.
I was told that I could never feed myself as a home builder because I am a "furniture builder". Fact is, IF we build houses using furniture building "care", we can have houses that last your quoted 500 years...
I grew up in Liberty, Texas.... Water, Vapor, Air, Thermal is even more important there.... and is typically and epic fail in 80%+ of the houses built there in the last 50 years.
Uncoupling principle.... works if you use it and control/reject vapor from SOG...
How did you get 20% of the houses built so well? Impressive ratio, relative to most of the country.
@@leestevens446 The rest are destroyed by hurricanes? which none of these things would help much if the water is flowing in through the doors.
Im just glad Mike Ehrmantraut didn't die after Walter White shot him. He just moved to Texas and became an architect.
He’s Mike’s younger brother.
Gosh dang it if you don't have the best home-building channel on the internet. Thank you, Matt!
Really glad to see you continuing the 500 year home ideas in building. I really hope these ideas gradually move into the mainstream given just how much you can potentially save generation to generation.
When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone. Let it be such work as our descendants will thank us for; and let us think, as we lay stone on stone, that a time is to come when those stones will be held sacred because our hands have touched them, and that people will say, as they look upon the labor and wrought substance of them, "See! This our parents did for us." credit - John Ruskin
In the Netherlands all new houses must be build with a US r-value of 34 on the roof, 25.5 on the walls and 20 on the floor.
(Metric R-values: 6 / 4.5 / 3.5)
The U.S. will not adopt those codes because there’s too much money to made with remodels. We don’t believe in multigenerational building. Unfortunately.
Us has multiple different climate zones, so not sure how those coorelate. In general I've seen cooler climates have higher r value requirements. In parts of Texas, for instance, there's not even a frost line, while in the North, the frost line is several feet underground. It produces significant different construction mentalities. Going so high on insulation is Texas would be so expensive it wouldn't provide significant savings on energy consumption for cooling. Factor in the added greenhouse effect of the additional construction for negligible efficiency gains, and you produce a house that takes significantly long to offset the costs. I do agree in general however, building codes in the US need to be updated and refined though. There's just so many companies that catake advantage and lawmakers don't have nearly enough to be useful.
The United States (9.8 million sq km) is also more than 200 times the size of the Netherlands (41,000 sq km). The country includes humid continental, sub-tropical, semi-arid, arid, subarctic, and polar climates. Each local area has to adjust building codes to suit the local climate and geography. Comparing the two is like apples and a llama.
You insulate cold drinks on a hot day as well as hot drinks on a cold day... why wouldn't you insulate your (ideally) cold house in a hot climate? You like the hot getting in?
@@lisatorry6758 What matters is the difference in temperature. Average min/max is 22°F/104°F in Austin, but 65-75°F is very comfortable, resulting in a delta of 43°F/29°F in extreme cases. In the average case (41.5°F/97.0°F, delta 23.5°F/22.0°F) in a well-designed house, the HVAC system will only occasionally turn on (the heat will almost never be necessary considering body heat, sunlight through windows, and misc. electronics). At some point, the cost of more insulation will be greater than the cost of the systems to cool and heat the home, even over time. It's why R-100 isn't required, for example.
29:30 such a great point. Love this video, thank you for pursuing higher standards. This home is built to last.
Yes, we can all be this righteous when given the materials for free.
@@seanm3226 good point. Lets build with cardboard because its more "equitable"
Wow this went from the Real Remodel to the Spare No Expense Remodel. Ultimate goal is to build the perfect house, you are blessed to have this opportunity. Looks great, thanks for sharing.
That Study/Den on the upper floor is a great idea. I'm incorporating similar spaces in a lot of my designs which I'll be putting out later this year as stock plans for purchase online. I like to think of them as play/study spaces, a spot near the children's bedrooms where they can do their own thing, even socialize with their friends, while the adults may be downstairs socializing as well. They offer a lot of flexibility.
That shits been common in largish 2 story houses for like 40 years lmao.
Well, we all know where Matt lives now. I’m working on soon building a Barndominium. Love these tips! Very excited. This has got to be my favorite/ best build series.
I have 3 sons. I can assure you that there comes a time that they want their own room. My sons are very close but they need their space.
I have 3 as well - they were good to share until about 16, then we allowed them to have their own rooms.
it seems they have the flexibility to have their own spaces though. once their daughter is out of the house, there is her room and the bonus room in their suite, making three total bedrooms on the upper level
@Ttf Web that's exactly it, You build a house with all these extra rooms for two years until they go to college? no thanks. Sharing builds character.
@@bradswanson7919 kids also need their privacy. It build independence. Also experience builds character.
I only got my own room at 26. Kids these days are spoiled.
What a good way to be able to deduct the construction as a business expense. That plus donated materials, you couldn’t afford to not build this house
Unless he was planning on selling this house, he shouldn't be able to deduct the cost. It's his personal residence. I'm not a CPA but I do own my business and there are a lot of rules around deducting personal expenses.
Howard's Channel probably assigning some of the costs of this job to other customers projects. I worked on a project with a construction project manager of one of my subcontractors. He was involved as an alumni at his old college fraternity. He used to send his subcontractors to the frat house to do repairs and bill them to the legitimate projects he was running. The costs would get buried and lumped in with change orders to make up the costs. A lot of the self employed subs wouldn’t care if they were getting paid extra on another job as long as it all washed out evenly. Extra cost on a customer project means less profit and less income tax. Not accusing Risinger of any unfair practices but I know this is quite common with builders.
@@ELIRAXPRT > probably assigning some of the costs of this job to other customers projects.
> ...
> Not accusing Risinger of any unfair practices
If you *were* accusing Risinger of unfair practices, what would you say differently?
@@jmcdonne right, this was basically a thinly veiled money laundering accusation but I guess I'm mistaken because he said he isn't saying Matt's using unfair practices. Which as the cynical cranky asshole I have become will tell you, if everyone does it...it's not unfair just illegal
May your great humble personality teach us new ways to build efficiently while staying within a reasonable foot print. Cheers.
Love that you decided to go Passive! 😃
Don't put solar on the lower roof. When the snow on the upper roof slides off, it will land on the lower roof. If the solar panels are there, it may damage them. (edit: Austin gets ZERO snow, so viewers that get snow should consider that.) Also, take into account all of the shading you have. Have the solar install company use a meter that they hold on the roof in different spots. it knows where the sun is throughout the year and will calculate the blockage of the shading. I'm not sure what you call it, but it's predictions were spot on with my solar array. If you get 15% shading, install enough solar to overcome that or cut down some trees. Asthetically, I would fill the upper roof with solar panels edge to edge with offsets. It just looks better. Also, some panels operate better at higher temperatures than others. Hitachi HIT is one example. But there are others. See if you can get the solar contractor to use the 1meter X 2 meter (72 cell) size panels instead of the (60 cell) size you will end up with 2 rows instead of 3 rows for the same output. If you run a pure string inverter system, you will lose most of the output if some of the panels are shaded. Use micro-inverters(enphase) or optimizers(solar edge) on the panels to deal with the shading issues.
If an electric car or truck is in your future, they take about 10 kwh each per day based on 12000 miles per year. I would also install a water collection system and store some of the water to use on the lawn and garden. Rain water is naturally soft and is much better for plants.
I love the house build. I would love to see how much you would have charged a customer to build the same house without all of the Freebies.
Hello from Toronto!!! As an architectural technologies it’s great to see people in other climates sharing our standard practices, thanks for all the details and information!!
You're an inspiration. Never stop improving.
I love most of what has been done with the design and how the house was sealed up. I wish more builders and designers would add a radiant barrier to the house as you did.
However, I do believe that you missed one area where a radiant barrier would be worth the slightly added cost of doing so. Heat transmits by radiant energy, by convection energy and/or conduction. You are placing your roofing directly onto the Zip System roofing. Thereby creating a conduction zone. Yes, you do have 4" or approximately R26 insulation. Why not add a radiant barrier on the roof, install furring strips over that, bug screens top and bottom, and let the heat of the sun create a moving layer of insulation to take that added heat energy out via ridge line vent? Moving air does have an R value, granted a very small value, but the column of moving air through that cavity will reduce the heat load that will conduct through the roof, roof insulation, and Zip sheathing and into your attic.
You are adding foam insulation on top of the slab. You made the statement that you would have a complete thermal barrier all the way around your house. This is not a 100% accurate statement. You do have the bottom of your walls in contact with the slab. This will create a small thermal break in an otherwise complete shell around the living spaces of the house. Does the TX building code allow for the use of the high density foams, the ones 1000 PSI to 1500 PSI compression strength foams? I realize that it is too late for this to be added. But, it is food for thought for a future build.
I know some of the readers of this will take this as criticism of what Matt has build. This is not the case. I admire him for the level of detail that he has done with the building of his new home. This is a level of detail that I wish every construction firm in America would emulate. There are far too many construction firms that build ONLY to the minimal code required by law. The laws much change, and the building practices of these backwards firms be updated to reflect modern practices. Excellent practices, like what Matt has demonstrated time after time in this latest videos and site builds.
Chris Aldridge the roof points you make are my exact thoughts. A rain screen/air barrier on the roof would increase efficiency and add better dry through if there was ever a leak in the roof. I’m thinking of doing exterior insulation on my remodel but Using a metal roof and instead of the extra layer of sheathing just use Battons(purlin style) on the roof.
I'm 100% sure he will not put a standing seam roof right on top of the zip sheathing. He didn't do it in his house across the street. That house has a roof underlayment, he then screwed furring strips at a 45 degree angle and the standing seam screwed to that. I expect him to one up that house.
Chris Aldridge I think it’s likely what he with do since he’s doing a standing seam metal roof.
We all anticipate a vented roof assembly, good idea in Austin. In my part of Front Range Colorado, woodland fire regs prohibit any kind of venting, so the compact roof assembly is by far the best choice, in my opinion and practice. And I have done compact roof assemblies successfully for over 40 years, in Mass and CO.
The bit about wall on slab is pertinent. Matt should be criticized for being super anal about some things, then completely ignoring issues that are probably bigger. Around here, we are always on a crawl or basement, and we do totally conditioned spaces (either way). The 2" continuous is carried down to top of footer. No comfort or moisture problems anywhere, any time.
He definitely isnt putting the roofing directly on the zip sheeting. I'm not 100% sure but I think 1 of his past videos covers that.
Architect: More windows, more light Engineer: More windows, more leakage
TrIpPle PaNe WiNdOws
Roof to walls leaking is very common.
First heard about Passive houses “passivehaus” as a student in Germany many years ago. It’s so great seeing guys like Matt pushing to make this the new standard in the US. Awesome!
So many beautiful details have gone into this house. Kudos to you Matt, and the whole crew, for taking this thing to the next level! Thanks for sharing everything with us!
Matt- great video, and I enjoy hearing you talk (honestly) but you should let your guests talk more :)
Would love to see a show on how you are going to do roof penetrations for plumbing, solar, and ERV.
I'm renovating my garage, and eventually my house with the perfect wall concept. Will be a fun project.
My family are home builders in Lumberton, TX and need to see this! What a great way to build a home...
Issue also is economics, no one wants to pay for a 500 year house. Champagne taste on a beer budget they would rather have the pretty quartz countertops than a well built green home. What is the cost per sq ft to build?
Most people don't think ahead. The cost savings of a home at this level are accrued throughout the operational life of the structure. It's the proverbial "buy once, cry once".
@@benjaminrhodes9611 Maybe most won't have the house long enough, or live long enough to see a lot, or most, of those savings actually pay off.
I've lived in too many new homes built to a low budget to ever do it again. Building to last saves in the long run.
Current US culture, we have voted with our wallets for glitz and size. And getting out before the s**t hits the fan; the next buyer counts on getting out from under in a timely fashion as well. There is no problem with technology, only with the consuming public.
Last project was an $80k leak repair on a seven year old house. When rains came from the north, the living room floor was 1/3 covered in standing water. The seller failed to disclose (they had a half-assed "fix" done to hide the problems). Tough thing is that the house needs about another $200k to make right, and worse, virtually all the houses in the "New Community" suffer from water problems, as well. Great for the repair industry, come in a kludge a crappy "fix" on these p[laces until they finally are abandoned. The issue is economics (whose and when??).
Daryl Kupchanko houses are too big nowadays for most people to build efficiently. people should get over their egos and build responsibly. quality over quantity
This architect is double dipping on this project!
Where do all these insulation products end up in 50/100 years? We need more affordable, environmentally friendly options Matt. How about hire density housing, sharing a wall with a neighbour, how do we make that wall sound proof\/fire proof how do we design for less impact. It needs to be in the conversation, each time you do a video, I think. Thanks, love the show!
edwinstar100 The higher density worked out well in New York with the coronavirus! Not all of us want to live like rats
@@matthewboyd3297 new york also makes the money that you get from welfare and unemployment.
Imagine watching this after the recent Texas winter storm and power blackouts. All the lives and burst pipes that could've been saved with better engineering like this. I was lucky enough to have a fireplace and I can't tell you how much wood I had to burn just to keep it barrable in the living room. A lot more people in the area were not as lucky though. I live in an older late 70's home and look forward to retrofitting as much as I can for energy savings. Especially when it comes to good insulation.
How much per Sq Foot a true break down please, include the "free stuff" that is getting donated.
Having just built a pretty nice modern home... I would anticipate close to $400/sf with all these crazy details.
@@SigmaDG The costs totally depend on which part of the country you're building in. It's also important to consider where cost savings can be achieved. A house with a very efficient shell can have a smaller HVAC system. Also operating costs over the life of the house are lower.
How much per sq ft in Austin then?
How Much in North New Jersey. Sq Ft Estimate
Well the lot basically cost 440K 😳, thanks Californians
Gotta work with Tesla for your solar. You'd love their solar roof tiles and power wall, if you aren't already familiar.
I have been told by Tesla "no solar roof for new construction yet" Also, he said he's doing standing seam metal, but I like where your head is at Reilly.
@@jims.4785 Standing seam costs more but there are very nice solar panel mounts you can get that just clamp onto the seam without damaging it. That roof can probably outlast the useful life of a solar panel many times over. I personally prefer the utility of an easily replaceable clamp-on array.
cool architect Matt! in the intro he basically said "Pitch me business solutions that'll get me to work with you" - marketing 101. Build homes that fit the neighborhood - that mindset doesnt exist in wayne, nj. new home designs are all over the place... anyway, great start to the video! Always enjoy your content
Thanks Craig! Appreciate that.
When you get to running electrical and such, wire for Ethernet, at least 2 drops per room (of Cat6a or Cat7) and a run to each outside corner of your house at the sophets (sp?) this will allow you to add a really nice security system and home internet. I recommend Ubiquiti Networks UniFi gear. You won't be disappointed and it will be way easier to do now than to try to retrofit.
I would also go as far as to put these ethernet drops in conduit if doing new construction, so 10 or 20 years down the road when there is a new standard it can be changed out. Agree with you on the UniFi gear, during these COVID-19 times when other people are having a lot of WiFi issues, my UniFi system has help up and my family is online without any issues.
Agree that 9 feet is way better than 8'
I have 11' in my new house I just built and old house of 8'... WOW, what a difference!
12 inches better.
Did Matt do 9 foot or 9" 3"in to accommodate for the floating floor system?
8' is okay if the rooms are small, like 19th and early 20th century houses. Mid- and late-20th century open plan houses though... yeah 8' is absolutely claustrophobic.
Great episode. Will the house be all electric? Might make sense with solar (& batteries). Don't forget to rough out a leg of 220v in the garage for your future electric truck.
Has the White House called about your 'perfect wall?' Ha, ha.
Matt, really amazing build. I'm amazed by the level of detail, everything is quite literally over-engineered. If I have the cash, I'd love to borrow some of the technology from this one. That being said, 99% of people buying a 1970s build aren't going to be tearing 80% of the structure down like you did.. It's not cost effective and no one has the means to do that in reality. 3" floor is going to limit the headroom and is incredibly over the top, especially in the south. Don't get me wrong, I'm impressed with your build beyond what I can get into words but I don't think anyone is going to be able to replicate much of it.
That was outstanding! Thank you so much for the ideas. (And your architect is very attractive.)
The man who lives in a Yeti! His insulation is insulated!
When the architect mentioned the study area under the stairs, I was thinking he was going to make a Harry Potter reference.
R DeVeaux I thought the same thing!!
Missed opportunity
I do like the passive house concept and was introduced to it as a teenager back in Germany.
I admit I’m not a fan of electrical life support systems for a house. But part of that is a question of location. My preferred method of heating is wood as it’s an abundant source in my neck of the woods. And I’m a fan of fresh air. My grandma always shook out the bedsheets and let them air in the open window.
But I also understand that different climate zones may need different approaches in management. So while I doubt I will have anything resembling your heating and cooling system, I do believe a powerful dehumidifier can be a valuable addition in humid summer months. Combined with ceiling fans.
One major reason why I am not a fan of the perfectly conditioned space is that I believe we should want to be more connected to the natural outside world. I want a smaller, living space and a larger outdoor space. I don’t want my children to live in an apartment within my house. Bedrooms are for sleeping. Living rooms are for living. And anyone hanging out on the couch with the TV on during the day will get kicked out. Plenty of space to entertain and explore outdoors. I know that’s easier on my 10 acres then it’s on a city lot.
Bottom line: we don’t disagree on design and efficiency aspects, but rather on what we want to prioritize in daily living.
What do you think of Aluminum trusses and interior framing?
Curt Allen here Matt.Been watching from day 1.I been building for over 38 years.I have watched your home go up and 9 foot walls are great.You talked about the materials you used.I love your Ideas and concept on building a better home.I have invented a few things for advanced home builds.My reason for texting does not have disrespect for how you built your home but for maybe your health.I will start on the materials you love.Lvl studs,If you use those you need lvl seal plates.Lets start with
1st floor Lvl Floor joists.That are put together with glue as does every piece of wood in your home.Even the Osb that wraps the whole house.Rafters second floor joists all you Advan Tec.Plus install of Advan tec needs glue.Not including your LVLS.Im sure every piece of wood is not manufactured with glue.I know from it being 5 Degrees outside what wood burns the best and you have the best.That is not even my concern.My concern is 95% LVL Wood is put together with formaldehyde glue.Which there has been no long term study on the effects of the inhaling and handling by your contractor.Also how much is it going to effect you living in the house for the next 50 years. Formaldehyde has been studied in a short term test.The very first word I see and went right over to tell you was PSYCHOTIC TENDENCIES.This is no joke.I didn't even do back
And read the Others. Check it out Matt .Need more Home Shows.I have some great ideas on passive homes and self sufficient home.I am Commercially and Hurricane certified.
Curt Allen .I am in the process of retiring but starting another company for homeowners to be able to build their home without getting ripped off by contractors.Matt stay healthy .Curt Allen Owner of Upstate and Design .
Love your series and thoughtful approach to the evolution of quality construction! Question: Rockwool versus EnergyShield versus Zip system R Wall? Several months ago I figured you’d go Zip.....then several weeks ago I figured you’d go with Rockwool...and here you are with Energy shield.
Zip System R Wall is striking to me since it’s all in one. Only missing that reflectivity. Thoughts here?
Oh my, I'm just starting to dream of my own house… The deeper the knowledge - the worst decision it is…
Greatly appreciate your videos and to how educational they are. Living in Wisconsin I’ve taken many of your ideas as recommendations to control water around the house and moisture and air movement. Nicely done, thank you!
Love this kind of detailed look into your thinking behind a build. Thanks.
It might be too late but I would suggest an actual stairway to the attic. My parents did that when they built their house in the early 90s. It makes it so much easier to get up and down and to cart stuff up there. And when your boys get older one of them is going to want to move into the attic.
I’d like to see a passive build in south florida with heat, humidity, flood protection, hurricanes and salty air.
ICF !
When i helped a friend do her basement we used the dri-core and i could not believe the difference. I love what your doing and cant wait to see it not only finished but all steps in between
He said solar, I am a huge solar supporter and fan and am excited for him to be looking into solar, So excited to see how he does and I hope he adds battery that is also a thing anyone with solar needs.
Can you give a rundown on the added costs of passive house design vs traditional methods during one of these videos? It would be great to go this route, but average home prices for standard construction in the suburbs of Washington D.C. start in the $500,000 range. Can’t imagine what the added material costs would be.
capparramichael at least 100k more
Wish I could offer details but I can't. So much depends on local costs. But even more depends on how you prioritize your budget. For example, basically the labor cost of installing a junkie window is nearly the same as properly installing a high quality window. So why not put that unavoidable labor cost into a higher quality product? This concept applies to a lot of features.
Insulation is another challenging area because there are many ways to accomplish higher quality but the various approaches may impact other aspects of construction. Matt's continuous insulation envelop will give excellent results, but it does add complications to door and window installation which don't arise when all your insulation is in the stud bay. So there it's worth looking at whether the trade-off is worth it. Maybe it's worth upgrading insulation to spray foam between the stud bays to achieve a high, if not highest R-value, while avoiding the complications to door and window installations.
If you're building a new house, depending on local sourcing SIPS may be an affordable way to upgrade. Properly assembled they can give extreme air tightness and very high insulation levels.
If you design a house with a super-efficient shell then you have the opportunity to save cost by reducing the size of your HVAC plant. But your HVAC designer/contractor needs to be reminded not to oversize equipment.
Finally, of course, you need to consider the long term reduced operating costs due to lower energy use if you want to do a proper evaluation compared to standard construction.
Materials are not the big cost, its mostly the extra labor that is needed to get all the details right. There is no cutting corners
The cost difference between Passive House design vs traditional "code compliant" design depends on whether you are building new construction or a retrofit.
For retrofits like Matt's house here, it would definitely cost somewhat more because it is more difficult to air-seal and insulate all the existing nooks and crannies needed to meet the Passive House retrofit criteria. With that said, you can get 80-90% of the numbers needed to certify a Passive House design and still have significantly lower heating/cooling bills and much better thermal comfort than a normal "code compliant" house. Oftentimes, chasing the last 10-20% of the numbers can add significant cost to the project. IMO, sometimes good enough is good enough, especially if you're getting 80-90% of the way there.
But for new construction, it is significantly easier to detail everything correctly to meet Passive House new construction standards. Project professionals have quoted 5-10% higher cost compared to new construction in the past few years, and I have even heard that it costs basically the same as normal "code compliant" construction.
One of the key tenets to Passive House design criteria is that you will spend significantly less on mechanical equipment to heat and cool the building. This is where much of the savings comes in terms of initial construction cost. With lower heating/cooling demand, the mechanical equipment is sized significantly smaller, which lowers the cost of purchasing and installing this equipment. There is the extra cost of installing an HRV/ERV, but these not only greatly improve occupant health, but are sometimes even mandated by some energy codes for new construction and significant retrofits (NY City has mandated them in its 2020 energy code, for instance).
Another factor to consider is the lifetime service costs. We should all understand that Passive House buildings will have significantly lower heating and cooling costs. The savings per month can be anywhere from 50%-90% of the HVAC bills.
But another factor to consider is the durability of the construction. If designed correctly, Passive House buildings should last significantly longer than "code compliant" buildings. This is because the various air-sealing and humidity reduction measures result in a significantly lower chance of mold to form in the walls, insulation, and structural members. Less mold equals not only better indoor air quality, but lower retrofit costs in the future. In "code compliant" buildings, owners often have to rip out insulation and lumber due to mold rot, which adds to the future cost of constrution.
I have trouble imagining the tape adhesives remaining functional for even 100 years... Maybe 50?
Hi Shaun . . . Not even that . . . Two properties we have re-modeled - Tape failure/ adhesive failure throughout - 10 year & 8 year only . Top brand tapes .
Thank you both. I was wondering if anyone had experience with the “high end” tapes. I don’t trust the coating on the zip wall Ian either. Tyvek isn’t the answer either. I’ve pulled cedar siding off a house with tyvek and there were holes in the house wrap. I think either peel and stick or spray on is the way to go. Like a friend of mine in commercial waterproofing says, a hole in house wrap means water from there all the way down.
This is the best example on what you could do if you were not on a budget
Alway insulate under the slab, not on top. Maintain the thermal capacity within the home. Then you can do radiant heat tubing within the slab too. In the north this is king.
Christopher Gruenwald I wonder if he would have if he had poured a new slab
Better to do a conditioned crawl. Future-proofs the plumbing, makes the floor assembly cheaper and more reliable. And these days, high thermal mass is not necessary, or necessarily desirable. We prefer low-mass radiant heat (eg Warmboard), and have very happy occupants with this.
What will happen to polyiso vs fiberglass in 500 years?
oof the one girl get her own bathroom and the biggest bedroom while the boys have to *share* a smaller room with no bathroom
guess they're not trying to hide their favorite huh? lol
daddy's princess, lol..
A 'perfect wall' and a perfect building would be a modest-sized regular structure with no garish complicated projections or protrusions. Outside wall takes all the weight and environmental stresses. Inside main floor and ceiling built of hollow-core c/c panels, transferring all weight to the walls. Very open interior, heated with radiant masonry stove with exterior air, fuel and ash-outs. A rectangular footprint with Frank Lloyd Wright style. Walls would be of pre-cast pre-stressed insulated sandwich panels, erected by crane onto a 'red-iron' frame in a couple of days. Inner panel wythe is structural, with furring strips for vapour barrier and gyprock on the very inside. Middle layer is insulation, maybe 6 inches, bound to the first wythe. Exterior layer is a thinnner, cosmetic and water-seal layer bound to the central insulation. Structural wythe already has all conduit/plumbing cast into it, as well as all attachment points for welding and/or bolting, in the factory. A precision deal all around. Supremely solid, quiet, stable and secure. Fast erection and conclusion of the weather envelope. No brigades of hammer-bangers on site for months, no site-build detail errors all over the place.
The color grading on this video is amazing!
FYI you left your address exposed on the plans.
Love your content and I’m not even a builder!
I saw that too. Then went to street view. Nice neighborhood. I'm from Canada. Then I seen how close it is to the Mexican border... thinking that it's a good thing that there's authority managing the borders.
@@kennorthunder2428 Austin is no where near the border.
@@EATSLEEPJD I'm a commercial driver. For distance is a different thing that most people. Smugglers and infiltrators have a different perspective than most people.
Funny how real estate seems to ignore the construction of a home when pricing these days. All they care about is bed/bath numbers, square feet and average price of the homes in the neighborhood.
I've asked realtors for heating/cooling costs and documentation on wall construction/insulation etc and they give me the "uhhhhhhh Thats not available"
They say wood slab spray foam. That’s the extent of their knowledge.
Thats what you should expect if ur buying a cooking cutter home in a suburb. People who seek out land and builders will spend the extra money for well built home.
@@NotOurRemedy and monopoly framing lmao
Very nice job on the over view and video editing never fell asleep once! Nice job!
26:46 was an almost perfect prediction of the next Texas winter that came. My new build is being done according to the Passive House standards after that one.
Doesn't the foam insulation effectively become structural when you bolt things through it? How does it handle torqueing, crushing, and shear forces that aren't directly pushing or pulling on the bolts?
All the structural properties are from the initial Zip System sheathing, assuming they follow the correct fastener and fastener pattern. The foam insulation is not structural in this instance, It's simply fastened to the sheathing. The battens will further secure the foam insulation as they are attached beyond the foam, initial sheathing and to then framing.
Hi Matt, I was very interested in the insulated slab idea you were talking about but over your shoulder was some wood, it looked like early layout of a room but there was no inhalation under it? Is it going to be removed or what, the way it is now seems to contradict your slab insulation statement.
A most excellent walk through and primer on PH principles Matt and I thankyou for it. Good to see you and your architect sympathetic to the neighbourhood aesthetic too.
So awesome Matt, loving everything you're doing with your house! 😃👍🏻👊🏻
Would this "monopoly framing" method even fly in Northern Lower Michigan (zone 6)? I'm concerned about hacking off the rafters and THEN frame the overhang...since we deal with snow loads and such.
Any insight(s)?
Definitely an engineering calculation in snow country. I assume there is a calculation that works out.
You're making them all share a room? I'd be upset if my builder dad built us a home only to make me share a room with 2 siblings.
The oldest girl gets the largest room, while 3 boys share a smaller room. If my kids had to share the boys would have gotten the larger room, while the girl got her own (but smaller) room
I can't believe he's doing that while having got all that attic space and not using it..
He may plan to sell this house in two years (because capital gains tax) and move into a bigger house.
Kids are way better off sharing a room.
FIRST WORLD PROBLEMS....
Couple thoughts. When thinking of longevity, it seems all those old houses were masonry, timber or log homes. The whole point of stick frame is cheaper/quicker construction. At what point do we get that we are trying to improve an inferior construction method that we turn the cheaper construction into being more expensive than the stronger and longer lasting building methods? It seems that if you are wrapping in insulation, you are basically doing what they do for timber frames with sips panels. Why not just do that? Or build a log house and wrap with insulation then minimal framing to attach siding?
As someone without much budget, hoping to build a house in the north, I’m just looking at the expense of your house and wondering if it’s worth it at that point.
Also, passive house where you have to survive without electricity is a manufactured problem. With a wood burning stove and a supply of firewood, you don’t need electricity. You can keep warm in a tent.
I love these videos. Nice to see someone who cares about quality
Must be nice having Mike Ehrmantraut as your architect...
Nice. Ha ha. Saul Good is probably Matt's attorney, lol
Matt, How much will this home cost per square ft...many of us would like to know ?
Please give us a good estimate, thank you.
You should know by now that Matt will never reveal. And this particular endeavor is more of a vanity project, so the real numbers will skew in ways that he will lose audience, or at least come under heavy fire.
@@leestevens446 Heck with EVERY wrong move he's made I'd hate/love to see what the final costs are. Besides the donations/contributions he gets for doing this show, you know he's not paying full freight for architect fees/drafts/consulting.
can't wait to see Matt look into hempcrete houses
Hemp.... the magic fiber.
@@ClayAutery used by Puff the Magic Dragon
James Ray me too. Ticks more boxes than not.
you can use bermed earth to make your house more passive too Matt, glazing facing south, you can even put dirt on the roof for insulation or thermal mass
you need a staircase into the attic......do it now or you will regret it later.....been there done that.....my cool attic looks exactly the same with windows on each side, 9 ft ceiling center 8/12 pitch, 56ft long
Might want to think about blacking out your address on the house plans...
Why? Real estate records are public record and can be looked up on the net.
Passive House and NetZero are two different concept, although the result may ends up to be similar. NetZero is aiming to generate same amount of energy on site that the house could use, while Passive house is more about creating a super insulated envelope to minimize energy usage.
Passive house can be a way to achieve net zero, because you'll need less energy to heat/ cool the space.
Great show Matt 👍👍 you give so much great information and insulation on outside of framing is such a great idea. Please make more videos like this one that explains everything like you did.Great job 🇺🇸👍