For those who are interested. I own a 2005 Crown Victoria P71 Interceptor. My car exhibited no symptoms at all when this sensor failed. I was on a 600 mile trip and pulled into a BP gas station for fuel. When I came out to start the car it would crank just fine, but no start. I could hear the fuel pump energize, so I tested for spark. There was no spark at all. The 3 bolts that hold AC compressor must be loosened all the way to remove and install the new sensor. The sensor is over 2 inches long and that's why. My instrument cluster doesn't have a Tachometer, so I saw no fluctuation in RPM's prior to failure. The car was running great.
If you change your crankshaft sensor and it’s 3 pin or more make sure you replace it with the same exact part. The reason for that is different manufacturers make the sensor different and will cause crank no start or start and cut off
Why do manufacturer engineers BURY these sensors behind other components? It’s obvious replacement is an afterthought. As the guy with the Crown Vic said, he had to remove the ac compressor to get to it. On my Equinox, you have to remove the starter on the 4 cylinder and the rear motor mount on the V6 to get access to this sensor. Ridiculous. On my car, I took it to the GM dealer to have it diagnosed. They came back with a faulty ECM. $1,200 later ($200 for the diagnosis, $680 for the new ECM and $325 to program the ECM), and I was told, “Oops…that wasn’t it”. After 2 weeks, I picked up the car. Took it home and went down and bought a new Crankshaft Position Sensor for $20. F’n idiots.
cam sensor usualy cause late starting and timing correlation codes...crank sensor when about to fail gives jumping rpms and misfires, nd when failed...no start. there re other reasons that cause no start even a fuse. Do check correctly.
@@autoinfogroup1629Hi I have a the code P0016- Crankshaft Position- Camshaft position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A. RPM does not move when cranking. Doesn't start. Audi A4. All happened after battery change.
It means cam and crank shaft is not in sync...if the rpm doesn't move, ie gives out zero, more often crank sensor might go bad. Other possible causes, loose connector, damaged wiring to sensor, damaged timing teeth or reluctor etc...
Have a jeep patriot it has pretty much all the same problems. Wanted to know does it affect ETC even after changing throttle body bc the light is flashing.
If your crankshaft sensor has a visible "pin" (some are in a sealed body) then carbon builds up over time and interferes with the signal..simply clean off carbon and your good to go..first symptom would be probably unnoticeable (at first) slight loss of power..then starting problems...make cleaning a routine job every few months.
I got a 2017 Kia Forte LX from Drivetime. Seems it was sitting around too long. The car seemed so perfect. Ran great up until I took it off the lot officially.-- I drove through a plaza slowly stepped on the gas and nothing, the car was off. The oil light and battery light came on. I was able to easily crank the car back up as if it never happened. Then it did it again 8min later. No codes showed up when the dealer looked at it. And he was just as confused lol smh. Do you think this is the fix it needs
Crank shaft senor can cause the issue but mostly it happens because of throttle body. Any air restriction or fuel restriction can also cause the similar issue.
i got a 2017 hyundai elantra. not the same car but if im correct they share the same engine and everything. Mine only ever did this when i needed a oil change.
i own a 2012 Kia Forte as well and i have the exact same issue about 5 years ago. changed the Crank sensor and problems gone. Now in few weeks back the problem started again and i just changed it again today. ;) many owners of Kia forte here in Malaysia have same issue.
I bought a honda accord 2008 (2nd hand). Today the check engine light is blinking, and when i press the accelerator, the speed is not increasing. Is it a major issue? Can you please suggest me what can i do? Thank you.
I have an 07 Lexus gs350 and I have a check engine light on. The cars rpm’s fluctuate during idling and just recently it did not start at all. Once it cooled down I got it to start I read the codes and I have a misfire in cylinder 1 and another code for crankshaft position sensor. Is it most likely the csps? Any help would be appreciated.
Car rpm fluctuations and not start when engine is hot is most likely....crank sensor about to fail....eventually car wont start at all. A misfire in any cylinder can cause an rpm fluctuations but wont stall unless theres a serious issue. Here replace the crank sensor first...a bad crank sensor too can cause misfires in one or more cylinders...ie timing error.
Ok so im gonna describe my symptoms and hopefully youll see these and let me know if theyre familiar. Truck runs beautifully when cold until about 20-30 minutes of driving or probably WOT. Then it loses power, backfires through intake, stalls completely and even worse if you give it full throttle. If you feather the pedal really fast itll "jump" its way a little farther, but eventually it completely stops. It will still idle sometimes, roughly, and sometimes it will slowly die. If it starts to die when parked i can feather the pedal and keep it running for a bit. Weirder though is that if you let it sit idling after this happens it will clear up sometimes and youre able to drive it another mile or two, but ultimately does it again and eventually it just wont run until it sets and cools off. Ive changed plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, upper intake gasket, pcv valve, some vacuum lines, oil pressure switch, plugs, wires, IAC, TPS. No real change when doing the starter fluid test for vacuum leaks. Only does it at WOT. Scan codes are p0171 P0505 P0123 Any suggestions?
will service engine light most likely go on first before a crank or cam sensor fails completely and leaves you with a no start at all situation? thanks
You might or might not....if cam sensor starts to fail, you may see long cranking. If crank starts to fail, the engine may start quick but idle speed varies. And if dead completely, the engine won't start at all.
@@autoinfogroup1629This is whats now happening with my 07 impala. Threw a code p0341, but then engine light went off and drove normally. No issues at all. Hard start this morning and then after work. Got home and wont start at all. My wife mentioned it rough started and stalled. I noticed a rough idle. By dead completely are you talking about the cam sensor?
Doesn’t anyone know about Hyundai sonata 2016 ? My car is going but it’s not going as fast when I accelerate it’s actually going at a certain speed it doesn’t go faster I already replaced the cover in this video and it was good for a few days then the light came back on and it started going slow again like it’s forcing itself? Doesn’t anyone have any idea ?? I need help no one knows what it is ??
Yes stalls while diving intermittently no check light no wiring temp cold light turns on before stall sometimes catches itself and doesbt stall fuel is sometimes wasted It hesitates like somethings stuck
Hmm, a tps, IAC valve, Maf a dirty fuel filter, PVC a fuel injector or a dirty air filter can throw a p0171 and a p0174 can throw these code nothing like having a 2 or 4 barrel holly powering you car.
Hi these, actually most of the symptoms are same for many sensors and actuators in modern vehicle. so have to precise on the symptoms. when it occurs, at what intervals etc
For those who are interested. I own a 2005 Crown Victoria P71 Interceptor. My car exhibited no symptoms at all when this sensor failed. I was on a 600 mile trip and pulled into a BP gas station for fuel. When I came out to start the car it would crank just fine, but no start. I could hear the fuel pump energize, so I tested for spark. There was no spark at all. The 3 bolts that hold AC compressor must be loosened all the way to remove and install the new sensor. The sensor is over 2 inches long and that's why. My instrument cluster doesn't have a Tachometer, so I saw no fluctuation in RPM's prior to failure. The car was running great.
So does a bad crank shaft sensor as well as a cam shaft sensor affect the rpm gauge fluctuating & the shut down of your car
If you change your crankshaft sensor and it’s 3 pin or more make sure you replace it with the same exact part. The reason for that is different manufacturers make the sensor different and will cause crank no start or start and cut off
It also may say that the oil pressure is low without Beeing low... that because it also can't measure the oil correctly
Well damn mine is giving me the crankshaft sensor code and oil light intermediatly.
Why do manufacturer engineers BURY these sensors behind other components? It’s obvious replacement is an afterthought. As the guy with the Crown Vic said, he had to remove the ac compressor to get to it. On my Equinox, you have to remove the starter on the 4 cylinder and the rear motor mount on the V6 to get access to this sensor. Ridiculous.
On my car, I took it to the GM dealer to have it diagnosed. They came back with a faulty ECM. $1,200 later ($200 for the diagnosis, $680 for the new ECM and $325 to program the ECM), and I was told, “Oops…that wasn’t it”. After 2 weeks, I picked up the car. Took it home and went down and bought a new Crankshaft Position Sensor for $20.
F’n idiots.
GREAT EXPLAINATION.
Got a 2006 Nissan Altima. Camshaft sensor was replaced. Mechanic said if it don't start it's the crankshaft sensor. Can't wait to get rid of it.
cam sensor usualy cause late starting and timing correlation codes...crank sensor when about to fail gives jumping rpms and misfires, nd when failed...no start. there re other reasons that cause no start even a fuse. Do check correctly.
@@autoinfogroup1629Hi I have a the code P0016- Crankshaft Position- Camshaft position Correlation Bank 1 Sensor A. RPM does not move when cranking. Doesn't start. Audi A4.
All happened after battery change.
It means cam and crank shaft is not in sync...if the rpm doesn't move, ie gives out zero, more often crank sensor might go bad. Other possible causes, loose connector, damaged wiring to sensor, damaged timing teeth or reluctor etc...
Have a jeep patriot it has pretty much all the same problems.
Wanted to know does it affect ETC even after changing throttle body bc the light is flashing.
If your crankshaft sensor has a visible "pin" (some are in a sealed body) then carbon builds up over time and interferes with the signal..simply clean off carbon and your good to go..first symptom would be probably unnoticeable (at first) slight loss of power..then starting problems...make cleaning a routine job every few months.
Extremely excessive crank
I got a 2017 Kia Forte LX from Drivetime. Seems it was sitting around too long. The car seemed so perfect. Ran great up until I took it off the lot officially.-- I drove through a plaza slowly stepped on the gas and nothing, the car was off. The oil light and battery light came on. I was able to easily crank the car back up as if it never happened. Then it did it again 8min later.
No codes showed up when the dealer looked at it. And he was just as confused lol smh. Do you think this is the fix it needs
Crank shaft senor can cause the issue but mostly it happens because of throttle body. Any air restriction or fuel restriction can also cause the similar issue.
Did you ever figure it out? I had the same problem
i got a 2017 hyundai elantra. not the same car but if im correct they share the same engine and everything. Mine only ever did this when i needed a oil change.
i own a 2012 Kia Forte as well and i have the exact same issue about 5 years ago. changed the Crank sensor and problems gone. Now in few weeks back the problem started again and i just changed it again today. ;) many owners of Kia forte here in Malaysia have same issue.
Sound like a fuel injector or injectors issue, gas goes bad if a car set on a lot for a period of time
I bought a honda accord 2008 (2nd hand). Today the check engine light is blinking, and when i press the accelerator, the speed is not increasing. Is it a major issue? Can you please suggest me what can i do? Thank you.
Coil packs
Throttle position sensor or accelerator position sensor failure why you look after help assumptions first go to scan your car to read the dtc codes.
I have an 07 Lexus gs350 and I have a check engine light on. The cars rpm’s fluctuate during idling and just recently it did not start at all. Once it cooled down I got it to start I read the codes and I have a misfire in cylinder 1 and another code for crankshaft position sensor. Is it most likely the csps? Any help would be appreciated.
Car rpm fluctuations and not start when engine is hot is most likely....crank sensor about to fail....eventually car wont start at all. A misfire in any cylinder can cause an rpm fluctuations but wont stall unless theres a serious issue. Here replace the crank sensor first...a bad crank sensor too can cause misfires in one or more cylinders...ie timing error.
I do my car work myself . Take your car in to a macanic they trick you to have more work done that is not needed
thx after few vidoes i know the problem because almost all of them are happening two years i replacing spark plugs for no reason...
Glad to hear from you and hope to get fixed soon.
Ok so im gonna describe my symptoms and hopefully youll see these and let me know if theyre familiar.
Truck runs beautifully when cold until about 20-30 minutes of driving or probably WOT.
Then it loses power, backfires through intake, stalls completely and even worse if you give it full throttle. If you feather the pedal really fast itll "jump" its way a little farther, but eventually it completely stops. It will still idle sometimes, roughly, and sometimes it will slowly die. If it starts to die when parked i can feather the pedal and keep it running for a bit. Weirder though is that if you let it sit idling after this happens it will clear up sometimes and youre able to drive it another mile or two, but ultimately does it again and eventually it just wont run until it sets and cools off.
Ive changed plenum gasket, throttle body gasket, upper intake gasket, pcv valve, some vacuum lines, oil pressure switch, plugs, wires, IAC, TPS. No real change when doing the starter fluid test for vacuum leaks.
Only does it at WOT.
Scan codes are p0171
P0505
P0123
Any suggestions?
Shorter messages get more answers
will service engine light most likely go on first before a crank or cam sensor fails completely and leaves you with a no start at all situation? thanks
You might or might not....if cam sensor starts to fail, you may see long cranking. If crank starts to fail, the engine may start quick but idle speed varies. And if dead completely, the engine won't start at all.
@@autoinfogroup1629This is whats now happening with my 07 impala. Threw a code p0341, but then engine light went off and drove normally. No issues at all. Hard start this morning and then after work. Got home and wont start at all.
My wife mentioned it rough started and stalled. I noticed a rough idle.
By dead completely are you talking about the cam sensor?
Sorry sir my Opel cors Vauxhall c is doing acxatly that I have changed the crank sensor
Sorry for?
Coil pack ? What engine is in it
Doesn’t anyone know about Hyundai sonata 2016 ? My car is going but it’s not going as fast when I accelerate it’s actually going at a certain speed it doesn’t go faster I already replaced the cover in this video and it was good for a few days then the light came back on and it started going slow again like it’s forcing itself? Doesn’t anyone have any idea ?? I need help no one knows what it is ??
Hate all this computer crap
Yes stalls while diving intermittently no check light no wiring temp cold light turns on before stall sometimes catches itself and doesbt stall fuel is sometimes wasted
It hesitates like somethings stuck
Had error 0725 but crankshaft sensor was changed long ago
Hmm, a tps, IAC valve, Maf a dirty fuel filter, PVC a fuel injector or a dirty air filter can throw a p0171 and a p0174 can throw these code nothing like having a 2 or 4 barrel holly powering you car.
I have an opel astra 2.0 and it does all 7 of these!
Hi these, actually most of the symptoms are same for many sensors and actuators in modern vehicle. so have to precise on the symptoms. when it occurs, at what intervals etc
i replaced my crank sensor but the engine light is still on and shows the same code p0016
mine is showing the same code
@@254.jrizzy mechanic says i have to install new solenoids. Let's see how it turns out
U need to change the camshaft sensor Google the code.
@@PGV650 ive changed it , did 2 oil changes , installed new solenoids and I’m still getting the code. and i have a rod knock , motor’s done for.
Kia sorento