Thanks for the comments Barry, With lead sheet valley's discharging over facia boards we asked for tapered firing pieces to be fitted and dress sheet lead over and into gutter. In different parts of the UK some of the finer point vary. With dormer valley architects in general preferred to cover sheet lead on the dormer side of the work and cut the to roof pitch where the facia abuts roof but leave a gap of an inch and a quarter between facia and roof tiles / states. ( Facias were wooden) so the flow of water from the valley did not come in touch with timber facia. Thanks again for your input i find it encouraging.
Takes me back to my apprenticeship. Chase wedge, setting in stick, bending stick, box wood mallet, dresser. Cleaning the lead with a shave hook ready for lead burning. Standing seams, single and double lock welts, inodorous felt. And the fun (and burns) we got from working with Nuralite.
great to watch, and listen to a person, who know what they doing, and talking about, I used to get my tools from Monument tools in person at there factory at the top of Balham hill sw12, back in the early 70's they were better then. I learnt from an expert lead worker, who was an apprentise before the ww2 , and I went to the Brixton school of Builing, to do my City and Guilds, back in the early 70's there was a very old retired lead worker, who had done leadwork all his life, he demonstrated leadwork, on a piece of 4" diameter lead pipe about six feet long, he put 4 small holes around the circumference, 90 % to each other, opposite to each other, then dressed the lead out to form four 2" diameter perpendicular pipes a foot long each, I wish I asked him for it, as I doubt they are many people out there, who have the experience to do that sort of skilled workmanship, lucky to see such a thing, I used " cast sheet lead " on my roof, back in the 80's, it will last longer than me. thanks very much, for your great videos
Thanks for your words. I suffer the same dilemma. Have witnessed a guy in France form a knot in a 4" lead pipe. I still lay awake at night thinking how I can be done.
So the water runs down the valley into your fascia across the rim and inside the timber roof fantastic. Thats not head fixing and you dont nail soakers.
I enjoyed your video sir, moving the lead to maintain the thickness is important. The amount of times I've watched people on site reduce it to the thickness of a fag paper. Appreciated 👍
I know it’s only a demonstration and I know you’re the lead plumber but the left hand blade of the valley board should come straight down behind behind the fascia, thereby supporting the lead. It gives the line for the slater to follow when nailing the battens adjacent to it ( perhaps with a supporting batten screwed to the underside of the valley blade between the valley rafters ). Again I know it’s only demo but the right hand blade should come through and be cut off parallel to the main roof. I do agree though with the making of a tilt fillet to ‘ kick ‘ to support the under eaves slates and full slates to follow without use of the fascia board. Joiners years ago used to put a chamfered fillet to support the lead when the valley blades come down low behind the fascia to stop it drooping behind it. I do like the way the lead was folded over to the fascia before the bossing starts to ensure a consistent thickness. The number of times I’ve seen ‘ roofers ‘ just start leathering it over without that !!!!! Happy plumbing and again only a demo I know.
We must have gone to school at around the same time . Nuralite being the connection. They must have lobbied at high level to get that product included in the college work and on site, using a mole skin to smooth the folds etc. Funny enough i just passed a factory where i fitted nuralite some 50years ago in Essex.
This goes against everything I was taught. Lead should go over the facia, valley boards haven’t come down far enough to prevent the lead from sagging...etc. Agree about the batten across the eve.
Best off getting the shape then taking the flashing off and putting it on a hard surface as not to fracture the slates etc and gives a far better finish imo
No disrespect, but this video is only teaching people how to bodge a simple bit of lead work. If I did this on site I’d be requested to replace that creased tin pot with a lead valley in my own time
Steven Ec lets see you do better chump! The main point he was showing was how to do it without thinning the lead and the way he done it would probably get the 50 year guarantee the lead manufacturer gives. I can smash round back gutters and all sorts of details and make them neat but I would never get a manufacturers guarantee! Let’s see your efforts Steven.
I absolutely love they way this gezzer explains how to do stuff . No nonsense and tell it how it is ,you can’t beat that way of teaching
Thanks for the comments Barry, With lead sheet valley's discharging over facia boards we asked for tapered firing pieces to be fitted and dress sheet lead over and into gutter. In different parts of the UK some of the finer point vary. With dormer valley architects in general preferred to cover sheet lead on the dormer side of the work and cut the to roof pitch where the facia abuts roof but leave a gap of an inch and a quarter between facia and roof tiles / states. ( Facias were wooden) so the flow of water from the valley did not come in touch with timber facia. Thanks again for your input i find it encouraging.
Thanks Peter for taking the time out to teach others. Im glued to your demos. Learnt a lot.
Takes me back to my apprenticeship.
Chase wedge, setting in stick, bending stick, box wood mallet, dresser. Cleaning the lead with a shave hook ready for lead burning. Standing seams, single and double lock welts, inodorous felt. And the fun (and burns) we got from working with Nuralite.
4:30 "It's already happening"
That is a great catch-phrase.
And this guy is the best.
Thanks, I never would have thought that's how to go about it! It's counter - intuitive so thanks for a very helpful video.
great to watch, and listen to a person, who know what they doing, and talking about,
I used to get my tools from Monument tools in person at there factory at the top of Balham hill sw12, back in the early 70's they were better then. I learnt from an expert lead worker, who was an apprentise before the ww2 , and I went to the Brixton school of Builing, to do my City and Guilds, back in the early 70's there was a very old retired lead worker, who had done leadwork all his life, he demonstrated leadwork, on a piece of 4" diameter lead pipe about six feet long, he put 4 small holes around the circumference, 90 % to each other, opposite to each other, then dressed the lead out to form four 2" diameter perpendicular pipes a foot long each,
I wish I asked him for it, as I doubt they are many people out there, who have the experience to do that sort of skilled workmanship, lucky to see such a thing,
I used " cast sheet lead " on my roof, back in the 80's, it will last longer than me.
thanks very much, for your great videos
Thanks for your words. I suffer the same dilemma. Have witnessed a guy in France form a knot in a 4" lead pipe. I still lay awake at night thinking how I can be done.
its a joy to watch this man work ,,, well done sir
So the water runs down the valley into your fascia across the rim and inside the timber roof fantastic. Thats not head fixing and you dont nail soakers.
Thanks for the demo its good to see an expert at work, JP
I enjoy your work. All I use on long island is copper and lead coated
I enjoyed your video sir, moving the lead to maintain the thickness is important.
The amount of times I've watched people on site reduce it to the thickness of a fag paper.
Appreciated 👍
P.S. And yes ninja2kernow. The lead does go over the fascia board on the supporting left hand valley blade/chamfered fillet/tilt fillet.
I know it’s only a demonstration and I know you’re the lead plumber but the left hand blade of the valley board should come straight down behind behind the fascia, thereby supporting the lead. It gives the line for the slater to follow when nailing the battens adjacent to it ( perhaps with a supporting batten screwed to the underside of the valley blade between the valley rafters ). Again I know it’s only demo but the right hand blade should come through and be cut off parallel to the main roof. I do agree though with the making of a tilt fillet to ‘ kick ‘ to support the under eaves slates and full slates to follow without use of the fascia board. Joiners years ago used to put a chamfered fillet to support the lead when the valley blades come down low behind the fascia to stop it drooping behind it. I do like the way the lead was folded over to the fascia before the bossing starts to ensure a consistent thickness. The number of times I’ve seen ‘ roofers ‘ just start leathering it over without that !!!!! Happy plumbing and again only a demo I know.
When the nail slid down , oh how we laughed. Just like that!!!
Nice video Peter. Very informative.
I totally agree with mugflump thanks 😊 for taking the time to make the vid
We must have gone to school at around the same time . Nuralite being the connection. They must have lobbied at high level to get that product included in the college work and on site, using a mole skin to smooth the folds etc. Funny enough i just passed a factory where i fitted nuralite some 50years ago in Essex.
Some of the nail holes in the slates on top of the Lead aren't in the usual place are they?
Absolute monster
Thanks Peter, excellent vid as usual. Ignore the carping Mate, its just nit picking.
The general idea is to show the general idea. Thanks again.
Surely the lead goes over the fascia?
You are correct ! pretty basic really. This is what is wrong with You Tube videos.
lol
Thank you
Thanks i also learnt something ,and was very happy to listen,cheers
New Video showing our method of bossing lead valley
This goes against everything I was taught. Lead should go over the facia, valley boards haven’t come down far enough to prevent the lead from sagging...etc. Agree about the batten across the eve.
Are you going to iron the creases out of that? If I did that on one of my jobs I would be made to rip it back off
How is it done?? Just like that.... Ahaha..yer a tommy cooper soundalike mate.
thanks - I've learnt summat !
He's good at the rough work and rough at the good work
Very good
Top man Great tutorial
good work!
How many times have I removed a fascia and all the verge has dropped.. Ahhh
Now the leads as thin as alfoil.
Best off getting the shape then taking the flashing off and putting it on a hard surface as not to fracture the slates etc and gives a far better finish imo
😂😂😂😂this is hillarious so many faults
No disrespect, but this video is only teaching people how to bodge a simple bit of lead work. If I did this on site I’d be requested to replace that creased tin pot with a lead valley in my own time
Steven Ec lets see you do better chump! The main point he was showing was how to do it without thinning the lead and the way he done it would probably get the 50 year guarantee the lead manufacturer gives. I can smash round back gutters and all sorts of details and make them neat but I would never get a manufacturers guarantee! Let’s see your efforts Steven.
Steven is right.
@@Cd-hv9bz I fit lead valleys every other week, you’re welcome to come watch and learn if you’re up for it?
He didn’t even do a lead turn both sides of valley
RIP ear drums 🎧
This guy has no real idea of how to dress lead or teach it, he's not to my standard any way, i would kick him off my job..
please post a vid showing how to