If I am going to start the engine within a couple weeks after building it I will just use the motor oil that I'll be putting in the engine. Works just fine.
Pete. Thanks for this series especially the rebuild of the 289 Studebaker. I had a 54 president and a 57 Silverhawk. The rebuild brought back a ton of memories.
Pete, every time I watch one of your videos I get an itch to order a random short block and a pile of parts to build an engine, and I don't even have a need for one! Maybe some day I will; I've been thinking about a Cobra replica for years. Hope we'll see more about yours one day...
PETER GARAGE. If they kick out me from the job I don't worry I have learned so much from you .I can rebuild the engine myself you are really inspired me clear communication and presentation you are always will be continuing your journey in my heart when I start to do build the engine. I want to hit the like button million of times Thanks for educating the video
Pete, I'm surprised you don't cover your rod bolts with rubber hose. I've never had the guts to try to do piston insertion without using hose on the bolts. Call me a coward if you like but hose is cheap.
I am rebuilding a 1962 Impala, with my father. Eventually, we are going to get to the engine and I am trying to learn as much as I can before I start cracking it open. I believe it has a 307 in it. It does not have the original engine unfortunately.
Excellent thought about using a micrometer to check thrush bearing thickness, as you said the bearing companies make mistakes too. Its good to be totally thorough
I pre oil the engine before first start up using a drill to turn the tube running into the oil pump. Throw the distributed back in and Vroom. I change oil after 500 very easy miles.
Love your knowledge!! If you do diesels. Would be great to see a step by step full info on lb7 duramax. I love the do it right the first time attitude. I want to build my lb7 with your knowledge!!
Good video my friend,.... done a ton of small-block's in my day,... and 300-6 ford's...... truck stuff,.... I sold a lot of Kendell GT-1,.. 20 w 50,... back then,... was wondering if the Brad Penn is the same stuff,... after they have takin' it over,... the "green oil" was alway's No.1,.... still have some.......take care.........
Years ago it was suggested to use STP as an assembly lube, which seemed like a good idea at the time. Not sure about 62 but later Studebaker engines had STP in the break in oil, and a band around the oil filler cap said so. (the fact that STP was a Studebaker product was, no doubt, just a coincidence).
Could you please add a list in the description of everything that you had the machine shop do to any of the parts, I would like to get this right the first time. Thanks
Hey pete thanks the videos .. very educational. I have a 2008 mustang bullitt that is supercharged, i picked up a spare aluminum block and wanted to install forged internals so i can get more boost ,i will have the bock machined and tested , my mechanic is good but not a race motor guru is this short block assembly something we can do at his shop ? Thanks again
Pete, I live in Phoenix where Total Seal Piston Rings is located (they're actually only 5 miles from my house.) They recommend that the lubricant used in the cylinders and the Pistons be, wait for it, WD40. These guys are super sharp so I take that as an interesting recommendation from people that are the best in the business.
Well, since their piston rings are used in just about every race car in the world that could be at least circumstantial evidence. I went to a seminar sponsored by AERA (the engine builders association) at Total Seal. This pronouncement was made from the pulpit in front of two to three hundred people that flew in from all over the world to be schooled by Total Seal and that's what they said to use when installing pistons.
I am rebuilding a 1996 Mercruiser 5.7 that developed two cracks along the block. Engine is out and stripped down to the block only. Now I need a good replacement block. I was told be the welders I know that they have had trouble trying to weld marine blocks because they do not have enough nickel in them. Any suggestions on where I can get a good short block? Great information. Great video, straight to the point and clear as a bell. Thanks!
There is nothing different about a marine block. The same blocks are machined and put on the assembly line. I would never recommend welding or brazing a block anyway. Depending on how much you want to spend, you can get short blocks from many places.
@@PetesGarage thank you for your reply. I was told the nickel content was the difference that prevented as much corrosion. I was told never use auto parts in marine engines. Is this false?
People throw around things like nickel content, but in reality the blocks are made from the same iron. Partially false. The things that makes marine engines different is the use of either brass, aluminum or stainless parts to prevent spark. You can use a brass automotive temp sender, just avoid steel parts.
My friend has an old Studebaker pickup he wants to sell. Not sure what motor is in it but it is a rough old truck. I keep playing with the idea of buying it and rebuilding all the mechanicals and just drive it the the way it is.
I always wash the pistons first so I've never seen an debris really. If you do I'd make real sure they are super clean and every other part is spotless.
Would it be better, if you put vacuum hose over the rod studs, so when tapping the piston in or pulling the rod down they dont accidentally hit the crank journal?
I would do a couple of things. First, if the instructions that come with the rings do not give specs for power adders I would second, call the manufacturers tech support and ask them.
I got my crank reground new shells and when I put shellcaps on to hold crank in place and titend to 40 11b when I tried to turn crank at was stiff after a few turns I took caps off and some of the edges off a few shells had gone shiny it must b binding any idea y
I seem to remember years ago that regular NLGI2 grease was used on all the moving parts at reassembly instead of assembly lube (I don't even know if they had reassembly lube back then) What are your thought about using grease on the parts?
Assembly lube has polymers like molybdenum that reduce friction at start up. Grease will break down quickly and may be too thick for the tight tolerances of today's engines.
hey pete love your videos. im looking to run my stock bottom end in my 94' mustang. im running trick flow 170 HEADS. what is the biggest cam i can run and what size rr's. thanks for the videos
Why is it so necessary to clean the block with lacquer thinner before installing the bearings since they are going to be coated with a generous amount of oil and it will run between the bearing and block anyway?,,,thanks
My motor has been in the machine shop for a while and I layed my pistons in order but forgot to mark them and I went out to the shop the other day and they had been moved so now I don't know which piston went where what should I do
Nice thorough vid, but the first five minutes were repetitious. You said the same thing about six times. We got it the first time. Still gave you a thumbs up.
Thanks for the videos - it's videos like these that make RUclips great. What do you think about the old idea of putting hose pipe on the rod bolts when installing the pistons to protect the crank?
Hi Mr. Pete I’m trying to rebuild my 390 Ford engine and my intake/exhaust valves needs reconditioning but it’s more expensive doing that than buying a brand new stock valves. Do you think it’s a good a idea if I just replace them all with brand new ones? But how about the valve guides, stem, seat etc..? I would appreciate your reply
Hi Pete! Back again. Had a question for you about your 289 there. Do you think there would be any big differences that your Studebaker 289 engine may have to my small block ford 289?
Hey Pete.thanks for the videos. As I've gotten older I have realized I can't see small items anymore, and I've noticed that you have eye loops. What power magnification would you recommend for engine building...thanks brother, keep up the good work
Should i put assembly lube inbetween the maincap bearings and the maincap itself? I've been told that i should but can't find any evidence to support this. So far all i can determine is that assembly lube should be put on the INNER side of the bearing and can also be applied to the crank journals and pins...Any help you can offer would be great
I got a set of manley H beams #14040r they are beveled on both sides of the rod. I thought the notches for the main bearings were supposed to face inboard or outboard. Is there a specific way? Manley seams to not know what im talking about..
Make sure you least put 20 lb in a rod nuts do not hand tightening when you're turning the engine sometimes it hurts to watch these videos you have to be more careful when you use the ring compressor make sure the ring compressor it's flat with the block and carefully tapping the piston in I usually talk to nuts by hand close enough to the torque specs then I used torque wrench sorry but I've too many hours put Motors together so many are forgot to count I am happy to see that looks like the motors been balanced Studebaker Motors were like old-fashioned six cylinders but V8
Petes Garage .Thats exactly what I was thinking but when I try to move the shaft it seems tight no slop at all front to back or side to side. It a 12je Berkeley??? Maybe I should rebuild the pump any way? ?
u said pinch bolt 1357 outside of engine and 2468 should inside of engine ok how about inline engine only 4 cylender engine which direction pinch bolts should be .
Hey Pete, great video as always. I have a quick question: When torquing bolts inside the engine, for cranks or camshafts for example, do you apply engine oil on the threads before torquing? I've heard that manufacturers spec torque figures for bolts that have a coat of oil on them, but I am not sure.
I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure that the answer is no (edit: I was wrong; see other replies). Pete has an excellent video on bolts and other fasteners. I strongly recommend viewing that video before putting engine oil on bolt threads. Paste in v=qV41SNntPxo or just search YT for "pete's garage fasteners".
Yes they should be oiled. ARP recommends their bolt lube if your using their bolts but I use the ARP bolt lube always on any bolt. Not only do you lube the bolt threads you lube the underside of the bolt head as that's were most of the friction occurs. For assembly oil on modern engines (those that use roller cams) I use Castrol 20W-50 conventional oil. I picked that up from Subaru Mike Bauer a fellow Phoenician. He has great Subaru engine rebuilding video here on RUclips.
Ok guys....this comes up all the time. The answer is no, do not lube the bolts. They were never lubed at the factory, they still are not lubed in the factory, and these are not ARP bolts. ARP is a grade 8 fastener, totally different metallurgical properties. Some guys will say oil them, and they may be 100% successful, but they can't tell you why. Do what you like, but I am telling you that lube will shift the torque curve and it's almost impossible to bet a perfect even coating so every surface is perfectly the same.
Is it okay to uninstall the main bearings? For example I installed them, and wanted to take them back out just clean the block better, would it be okay to take them out or do they lose their shape?
Weird question. Do you wear any type of safety glasses when you're working with freshly machined parts? Due to possibility metal shrapnels from the machining?
i was wondering about that dog...the dog obviously does not care about that engine assembly and is quiet on the chair for 5 straight minutes...so i decided i have to know about that dog...i watched it all the way till end and guess what he is not giving a single fuck about that engine! 30 minutes! just not giving a shit and doing nothing at all...i have to show this to my crazy hiperactive doggo
I've built dozens of engines and could still listen to you doin' this all day. Great place to send people bugging me with questions!
That's cool...thanks Jesse
When ever I build an engine, I use engine oil and STP 50/50, never had any problems in over 50 years.
If I am going to start the engine within a couple weeks after building it I will just use the motor oil that I'll be putting in the engine. Works just fine.
Pete. Thanks for this series especially the rebuild of the 289 Studebaker. I had a 54 president and a 57 Silverhawk. The rebuild brought back a ton of memories.
Thanks for watching...that was a fun one to rebuild.
Pete, every time I watch one of your videos I get an itch to order a random short block and a pile of parts to build an engine, and I don't even have a need for one! Maybe some day I will; I've been thinking about a Cobra replica for years. Hope we'll see more about yours one day...
Stop thinking and start doing!
Yeah, I know! I'm about to build a house. Big garage is in the plans, so I'm headed in that direction.
great series! The little stamped retainer nuts on the connecting rods are called pal nuts.
Thanks Joel, my memory is going....lol
PETER GARAGE.
If they kick out me from the job I don't worry
I have learned so much from you .I can rebuild the engine myself
you are really inspired me
clear communication and presentation you are always will be continuing your journey in my heart when I start to do build the engine.
I want to hit the like button million of times
Thanks for educating the video
You are very kind. thank you very much
Pete, I'm surprised you don't cover your rod bolts with rubber hose. I've never had the guts to try to do piston insertion without using hose on the bolts. Call me a coward if you like but hose is cheap.
You're right, that's a good idea....I guess I'm so use to doing it without anything, but it's a good practice
Great video, very educational. I want to personally thank you as someone who is learning this video is very helpful.
Thank you very much, I'm glad they help
I am rebuilding a 1962 Impala, with my father. Eventually, we are going to get to the engine and I am trying to learn as much as I can before I start cracking it open. I believe it has a 307 in it. It does not have the original engine unfortunately.
Great video! I'm actually rebuilding the engine of my 1967 Fiat 1500, and this tutorial looks very useful! Thank you!
Thanks, good luck Tomas
Hello Pete. This video series is amazing. It is giving me the confidence to redo my 1962 Studebaker Lark, a 259.
You can do it Todd. It's not too difficult and there is a lot of documentation to help.
Excellent thought about using a micrometer to check thrush bearing thickness, as you said the bearing companies make mistakes too. Its good to be totally thorough
Just because it's a new part it does not mean it was made right. I check as much as possible.
i am so glad i found your channel before i started my disassembly and engine swap! the last one i did was a MESS.
I'm happy I was able to help
The statement that the first 60 seconds during startup are the most critical is true not only for new rebuild engines but also for all engines.
Of course....I didn't mean to make it sound like it wasn't
my shop teacher suggested we use some clear plastic tubing that is pushed onto the connecting rod bolt. That way is cannot contact the rod journal.
That is an excellent idea and you should do that. I am just so used to doing it quickly and avoiding hitting the crank.
one of the best instruction videos i ever seen
Thank you Tim
I pre oil the engine before first start up using a drill to turn the tube running into the oil pump. Throw the distributed back in and Vroom. I change oil after 500 very easy miles.
I do the same
Once again great work Pete
I really enjoy your videos and how you take all the material down to the easiest way for us to understand
Hey, if I can understand we all can....lol
Thank you Mr.Pete :) That was an outstanding class !
Thank you my friend
Love your knowledge!! If you do diesels. Would be great to see a step by step full info on lb7 duramax. I love the do it right the first time attitude. I want to build my lb7 with your knowledge!!
I do not get many diesels to work on. I'll make videos for sure when I do.
Lb7 if you have a choice!! My son and I are about to start an lb7 build
Good video my friend,.... done a ton of small-block's in my day,... and 300-6 ford's...... truck stuff,.... I sold a lot of Kendell GT-1,.. 20 w 50,... back then,... was wondering if the Brad Penn is the same stuff,... after they have takin' it over,... the "green oil" was alway's No.1,.... still have some.......take care.........
Great question, I wonder myself. Thanks for the comment
Very thorough and thoughtful video. I enjoyed it as well as the rest in the series.
Thank you Ted
Great video, tons of info and a very good attention to detail! Hoping to attempt my first rebuild soon!!
Awesome....good luck and have fun
Years ago it was suggested to use STP as an assembly lube, which seemed like a good idea at the time. Not sure about 62 but later Studebaker engines had STP in the break in oil, and a band around the oil filler cap said so. (the fact that STP was a Studebaker product was, no doubt, just a coincidence).
This cap has the original STP sticker on it.
Could you please add a list in the description of everything that you had the machine shop do to any of the parts, I would like to get this right the first time. Thanks
I'll work on that
Hey pete thanks the videos .. very educational. I have a 2008 mustang bullitt that is supercharged, i picked up a spare aluminum block and wanted to install forged internals so i can get more boost ,i will have the bock machined and tested , my mechanic is good but not a race motor guru is this short block assembly something we can do at his shop ? Thanks again
Sure, you can do it. Just take all measurements and check clearances.
Pete, I live in Phoenix where Total Seal Piston Rings is located (they're actually only 5 miles from my house.) They recommend that the lubricant used in the cylinders and the Pistons be, wait for it, WD40. These guys are super sharp so I take that as an interesting recommendation from people that are the best in the business.
Well, since their piston rings are used in just about every race car in the world that could be at least circumstantial evidence. I went to a seminar sponsored by AERA (the engine builders association) at Total Seal. This pronouncement was made from the pulpit in front of two to three hundred people that flew in from all over the world to be schooled by Total Seal and that's what they said to use when installing pistons.
I can see that because WD-40 is 70% fish oil. It acts as a very fine lubricant and anti-rust agent so it would work. I do use it from time to time.
Of course fish oil is a myth....the recipe is a secret....but the MSDS does list about 70% of hydrocarbon type mineral oils
I've also watched one of the great cylinder head porters here use WD40 when doing a lot of assembly. Also on the bores.
You could watch the "Myvintageiron" channel. He lives near Total Seal's headquarters and he uses WD40 because that was what he was told to use.
Pete that was an outstanding class
Thank you Robert. I'm just trying to help.
I am rebuilding a 1996 Mercruiser 5.7 that developed two cracks along the block. Engine is out and stripped down to the block only.
Now I need a good replacement block. I was told be the welders I know that they have had trouble trying to weld marine blocks
because they do not have enough nickel in them. Any suggestions on where I can get a good short block?
Great information. Great video, straight to the point and clear as a bell. Thanks!
There is nothing different about a marine block. The same blocks are machined and put on the assembly line. I would never recommend welding or brazing a block anyway. Depending on how much you want to spend, you can get short blocks from many places.
@@PetesGarage thank you for your reply. I was told the nickel content was the difference that prevented as much corrosion. I was told never use auto parts in marine engines. Is this false?
People throw around things like nickel content, but in reality the blocks are made from the same iron. Partially false. The things that makes marine engines different is the use of either brass, aluminum or stainless parts to prevent spark. You can use a brass automotive temp sender, just avoid steel parts.
the pug is adorable what a helper great job keep it up
She is the star of the show
My friend has an old Studebaker pickup he wants to sell. Not sure what motor is in it but it is a rough old truck. I keep playing with the idea of buying it and rebuilding all the mechanicals and just drive it the the way it is.
That would be fun
Thanks, Pete, Just installed my pistons in my la 360. Have you ever seen anything debris come out of the oil holes when blowing air?
I always wash the pistons first so I've never seen an debris really. If you do I'd make real sure they are super clean and every other part is spotless.
Great video Pete. One question, do you use pal nuts on the rod bolts? Studebaker used them, but didn't see you install them.
I explained in the machining video why I did not use them. The rods nuts are torqued to 32 ft lbs and a stamped pal nut is not going to do much.
I agree they don't do much if anything at all. I never understood why Studebaker use them.
Great video.
Thanks Adam
LOL!!!
How would excessive end play show itself with the engine running?
You would hear the crank clunk back and forth when you step on and off the gas.
hey do you ever put thread lock on any of the bolts in the engine?
The only bolts I do are cam sprocket bolts
Would it be better, if you put vacuum hose over the rod studs, so when tapping the piston in or pulling the rod down they dont accidentally hit the crank journal?
You can and that's a good practice.
Thank you for making such an informative video!
Thank you for watching
Great video! Nice job as usual! Keep rockin these videos!
Thanks! Will do!
Hey Pete if your running a custom build how would you know the spec for your ring? Obviously more hp, bore or more boost it would be different right?
Yes, any power adder will change ring gap.
Pete's Garage so how do you go about getting the info for the proper gap? Thanks
I would do a couple of things. First, if the instructions that come with the rings do not give specs for power adders I would second, call the manufacturers tech support and ask them.
Pete's Garage alright I will definitely contact them before I go forward thanks again
I got my crank reground new shells and when I put shellcaps on to hold crank in place and titend to 40 11b when I tried to turn crank at was stiff after a few turns I took caps off and some of the edges off a few shells had gone shiny it must b binding any idea y
Yes, take it back to the machine shop and tell them to grind it right.
I seem to remember years ago that regular NLGI2 grease was used on all the moving parts at reassembly instead of assembly lube (I don't even know if they had reassembly lube back then) What are your thought about using grease on the parts?
Assembly lube has polymers like molybdenum that reduce friction at start up. Grease will break down quickly and may be too thick for the tight tolerances of today's engines.
hey pete love your videos. im looking to run my stock bottom end in my 94' mustang. im running trick flow 170 HEADS. what is the biggest cam i can run and what size rr's. thanks for the videos
I would follow the recommended max by the cam manufacturer. It's difficult for me to just give you a cam number
Hey Pete
Great videos man, but when are you gonna build some big block MOPARS!!!
I have one lined up for this summer so stay tuned
Hi pete.
what is the materials that the crack shaft bearing fabricated from?
Most are made from steel with a copper/lead alloy and a small tin coating for lubrication.
Why is it so necessary to clean the block with lacquer thinner before installing the bearings since they are going to be coated with a generous amount of oil and it will run between the bearing and block anyway?,,,thanks
To remove all old oil and grease
@@PetesGarage Makes sense!
My motor has been in the machine shop for a while and I layed my pistons in order but forgot to mark them and I went out to the shop the other day and they had been moved so now I don't know which piston went where what should I do
Can you ask the shop to help?
Nice thorough vid, but the first five minutes were repetitious. You said the same thing about six times. We got it the first time. Still gave you a thumbs up.
Yeah....it's tough without a script.
Congratulations on over 55 thousand subscribers, Where is the store to support the Channel
Thanks Jonathan. I'm finishing it up now and I will put up a video and link.
Awesome
Thanks for the videos - it's videos like these that make RUclips great. What do you think about the old idea of putting hose pipe on the rod bolts when installing the pistons to protect the crank?
Putting something on the rod bolts is a good idea. I guess I'm so use to not using anything, but you're right, protect the crank
beautiful crank
I hear that all the time...lol
nice one
beautiful work
Engine main bearings supposed to tang to tang? Tangs are on opposite sides in this motor main bearings, why?
Rod bearings are tang to tang because they see rotation in both directions. Cranks are tank opposite because the crank only goes 1 direction
Hi Mr. Pete I’m trying to rebuild my 390 Ford engine and my intake/exhaust valves needs reconditioning but it’s more expensive doing that than buying a brand new stock valves. Do you think it’s a good a idea if I just replace them all with brand new ones? But how about the valve guides, stem, seat etc..? I would appreciate your reply
It's ok to change the valves, I do all the time. Always change the valve guides, stem seals, and perhaps the key retainers.
thanks for the reply i have always used them
Hi Pete! Back again. Had a question for you about your 289 there. Do you think there would be any big differences that your Studebaker 289 engine may have to my small block ford 289?
Yes, I have built many Ford 289's and this one is not even close
awesome vid as always Pete! Do you know how to install forced inductions?
Thank you....I may be building a supercharged engine next
Nice video, good job, thanks, fun to watch :)
Thanks Clint
Hey Pete.thanks for the videos. As I've gotten older I have realized I can't see small items anymore, and I've noticed that you have eye loops. What power magnification would you recommend for engine building...thanks brother, keep up the good work
Thank you my friend...I use a 10X with a 20X loop
Super informative. Thanks for the good content.
Thanks my friend
🤔 Thought caps need to be in place and torqued down before you check crankshaft end play? The way you do it is sketchy; everyone can't eyeball that 😬
The end play is actually check from the front of the crank after it's assembled
Pete, I was interested in building a Crobra Kit car. I was wondering if you have recommendations regarding manufactures?
I would get a Factory 5 all the way
I like your pug in the background lol
She keeps me company
⛵️Daniel Moreno 🎖🎖🙄🤔🤔🐰🤔
She's in charge of security
Should i put assembly lube inbetween the maincap bearings and the maincap itself? I've been told that i should but can't find any evidence to support this. So far all i can determine is that assembly lube should be put on the INNER side of the bearing and can also be applied to the crank journals and pins...Any help you can offer would be great
Absolutely not. You do not want the bearing to spin in the cap. Only put it on the crank journals and pins. You can just lube the bearing too.
I got a set of manley H beams #14040r they are beveled on both sides of the rod. I thought the notches for the main bearings were supposed to face inboard or outboard. Is there a specific way?
Manley seams to not know what im talking about..
I have a few videos about installing pistons, take a look. Hope they help.
Make sure you least put 20 lb in a rod nuts do not hand tightening when you're turning the engine sometimes it hurts to watch these videos you have to be more careful when you use the ring compressor make sure the ring compressor it's flat with the block and carefully tapping the piston in I usually talk to nuts by hand close enough to the torque specs then I used torque wrench sorry but I've too many hours put Motors together so many are forgot to count I am happy to see that looks like the motors been balanced Studebaker Motors were like old-fashioned six cylinders but V8
Thanks Paul
Thank you Sir
Pete. I notice the freeze plugs are reversed on the 289 Studebaker. is there a reason?
They counterbored the hole, it sits in backwards on a lip.
Thanks Pete. That cleared it up.
hey pete what brand micrometer is that
I have a few, I think that's the Starrett
What would cause the thrust bearing to wear out on center cap of crank. In a jet boat with Berkley pump
Too much end play in the jet drive
Petes Garage .Thats exactly what I was thinking but when I try to move the shaft it seems tight no slop at all front to back or side to side. It a 12je Berkeley??? Maybe I should rebuild the pump any way? ?
Maybe it's too tight forcing the crank one direction
How to do find out what all the gaps have to be?
A simple search will provide many
How do you know how specs and how much torque the bolts need ? Is it memory or is there a book
There are standards for bolt sizes, threads, and materials
THANK YOU
You got it my friend
very educational
Thanks Andrew
Nice video
Nice work
arent you suppose to measure the clearance for the piston rods too with plastigauge?
You can, sure
@@PetesGarage Oo ok. Thank you!
what kind of engine is this chevy/dodge?
1962 Studebaker
u said pinch bolt 1357 outside of engine and 2468 should inside of engine ok how about inline engine only 4 cylender engine which direction pinch bolts should be .
Depends on the engine, but make sure you pay attention when you take them out.
What if your rods not numbered. Or you forgot the order the pistons go in ?
It's trial and error when you fit each one in
Ok. So how does I know they in the right order
Hey Pete, great video as always. I have a quick question: When torquing bolts inside the engine, for cranks or camshafts for example, do you apply engine oil on the threads before torquing? I've heard that manufacturers spec torque figures for bolts that have a coat of oil on them, but I am not sure.
I'm not an expert, but I'm pretty sure that the answer is no (edit: I was wrong; see other replies). Pete has an excellent video on bolts and other fasteners. I strongly recommend viewing that video before putting engine oil on bolt threads. Paste in v=qV41SNntPxo or just search YT for "pete's garage fasteners".
Yes they should be oiled. ARP recommends their bolt lube if your using their bolts but I use the ARP bolt lube always on any bolt. Not only do you lube the bolt threads you lube the underside of the bolt head as that's were most of the friction occurs. For assembly oil on modern engines (those that use roller cams) I use Castrol 20W-50 conventional oil. I picked that up from Subaru Mike Bauer a fellow Phoenician. He has great Subaru engine rebuilding video here on RUclips.
Thanks!
Watching it as we speak!
Ok guys....this comes up all the time. The answer is no, do not lube the bolts. They were never lubed at the factory, they still are not lubed in the factory, and these are not ARP bolts. ARP is a grade 8 fastener, totally different metallurgical properties. Some guys will say oil them, and they may be 100% successful, but they can't tell you why. Do what you like, but I am telling you that lube will shift the torque curve and it's almost impossible to bet a perfect even coating so every surface is perfectly the same.
Nice!!
How do you get the information for the correct specs that is required is what i really want to know
That information is easy to find online
Can u leave a link where u got the engine oil at?
You can buy it from Summit or Jegs
Pls I need videos like dis on how to assemble Cat engines... I need utube link please
You'll have to search
Alright i like it
Thanks my friend
Awesome
What kind of micrometer are u using?
The caliper?
Pete I didn't see the rear main seal
It's there
what kind of rod r u using
The rods that came from the factory, original
:) Very Nice
Thanks
Thank you
Is it okay to uninstall the main bearings? For example I installed them, and wanted to take them back out just clean the block better, would it be okay to take them out or do they lose their shape?
That's fine to do. I've done that many times
Weird question. Do you wear any type of safety glasses when you're working with freshly machined parts? Due to possibility metal shrapnels from the machining?
No, the parts are clean and purged
Thanks
Good
Man they are pimping that honda ridgeline..
Really? I have zero control over what they do.....
i was wondering about that dog...the dog obviously does not care about that engine assembly and is quiet on the chair for 5 straight minutes...so i decided i have to know about that dog...i watched it all the way till end and guess what he is not giving a single fuck about that engine! 30 minutes! just not giving a shit and doing nothing at all...i have to show this to my crazy hiperactive doggo
That dog will sleep through everything. Just watches me work all day long.
no rod bolt boots
You can use them, but I'm so used to doing it I don't use them. It is a good practice
i used joe gibs break in oil
Any will work as long as it has the zinc and phosphorus in it
Yesss
很想学，就是听不懂，有中文字幕就好了
我希望我能為你翻譯。也許有一天，技術將可用。
Is your dog named Frank?🤪
That dog was Shelby, my new pug is Frank