Hey Pete, me and gramps are working on a 58’ transtar deluxe with the 259 and these videos are incredibly useful and informational, we really couldn’t thank you enough!
Thanks Pete, I've really enjoyed the series so far. I'm currently rebuilding my tiny little 1929 Austin 7 engine and by chance I'm at about the same stage as you are in this video. While my baby is many times smaller (and a lot older) there are still a ton of similarities. Every time I watch one of your videos I pick up one or two great little tricks, tips or something to think about. Keep up the good work.
I was doing a bunch of work on a 2005 5.7 hemi the other week and didnt lube the head bolts when installing heads. ive heard lots of people say to, but the FSM doesn't mention it and the dealer said they dont. Engine runs really nice.
I was always told to put a little oil on the head bolt threads to ensure accurate torque measurements and not use any oil on head bolt threads only if manual specifically says not to. I doubt it makes much difference either way and may be more of a preference thing, but I was curious about your reasons for not using any oil on head bolt threads unless the manual calls for it. Great video as always and I appreciate the level of detail you give about each step in the engine building process. Cheers!
It actually makes a a big difference and putting oil on the threads can give you false torque readings. Watch my video on fastening ruclips.net/video/qV41SNntPxo/видео.html
Interesting... I'm rebuilding my 2000 Mustang GT engine currently so I'm glad I came across this information before putting everything back together. Thanks for explaining Pete! :)
If you stop the video at 6:12 it looks like there was a fracture in the rocker arm bore. Did you notice that? Would that be a non-issue or something you'd replace? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos... they are very helpful!
ALWAYS lubricate the threads unless the manufacturer says otherwise. All head bolts, on older cars especially, require a lubricant if it is in a blind hole or thread sealer if the bolt goes in a water jacket like small block Chevy. Lubricate the head bolts or you will have an inaccurate torque reading.
Hey Pete, on 13:56 you mention the head torque sequence but you dont show unless i missed it. But if you didn't could you share the torque sequence with me please?
what if you wanted to get a custom ground cam with a little extra lift? do you use the same rockers? they look totally different from regular rockers and rollers
So then the next valves to adjust would be on the next cylinder in the firing order, is that right? And you'd bring that cylinder up to TDC and make the adjustments, is that right too?
Yes sir....it is common to have irregular gasket holes for the cylinders for valve clearance or combustion issues. I'm not sure why this one is like that, but I suspect that when they bored out the block from the original size they were worried about expansion.
Hi, good job!! Question? so the all model about the rocker arm, is gonna be the same way you did it and different cars too? or got to be in different way? thank u for u support !!
This engine has solid lifters which requires adjustable rockers. Hydraulic lifters require a pre-load. There are a few different types of lifter configurations.
@@PetesGarage Cool. Love the videos. I'm learning so much. I've always been into woodworking so this is all new to me. Oh, what happened between videos 2 and 3 (or was it between 3 and 4) where the valve covers and spark plugs got installed?
Pete, great tip on that chemical from CRC for paint removal. Just some constructive criticism, you need to do some hand detailing before you make videos bud. Just pretend lotion and clippers are lube and pliers lol.
I like how the rocker arms are held in with head bolts. no flimsy studs.
They copied Dodge and Chrysler a little bit there. It has Chrysler lifters
Hey Pete, me and gramps are working on a 58’ transtar deluxe with the 259 and these videos are incredibly useful and informational, we really couldn’t thank you enough!
Awesome, good luck to you
Thanks Pete, I've really enjoyed the series so far. I'm currently rebuilding my tiny little 1929 Austin 7 engine and by chance I'm at about the same stage as you are in this video. While my baby is many times smaller (and a lot older) there are still a ton of similarities. Every time I watch one of your videos I pick up one or two great little tricks, tips or something to think about. Keep up the good work.
Thanks Steve....Love that car! Engines are very similar in many ways. I try to stick to basics so the ideas apply to as many engines as possible.
Thank you very much for making repairs very nice .. I would like to continue the videos.
Thank you my friend
I was doing a bunch of work on a 2005 5.7 hemi the other week and didnt lube the head bolts when installing heads. ive heard lots of people say to, but the FSM doesn't mention it and the dealer said they dont. Engine runs really nice.
It is always a controversy. I don't lube them myself, only put a little on these
Thank you pete for walking me through that other than this video I found nothing
Glad I could help
love your videos, you show everything we need to know, and you explain everything so smoothly, love it man, keep up the good work,
That is awesome! Thank you very much my friend
Great video, can't wait to see it fire up!
Hopefully a week or so
I was always told to put a little oil on the head bolt threads to ensure accurate torque measurements and not use any oil on head bolt threads only if manual specifically says not to. I doubt it makes much difference either way and may be more of a preference thing, but I was curious about your reasons for not using any oil on head bolt threads unless the manual calls for it. Great video as always and I appreciate the level of detail you give about each step in the engine building process. Cheers!
It actually makes a a big difference and putting oil on the threads can give you false torque readings. Watch my video on fastening ruclips.net/video/qV41SNntPxo/видео.html
Interesting... I'm rebuilding my 2000 Mustang GT engine currently so I'm glad I came across this information before putting everything back together. Thanks for explaining Pete! :)
Really nice work, I've learned so much, thanks
Thank you
If you stop the video at 6:12 it looks like there was a fracture in the rocker arm bore. Did you notice that? Would that be a non-issue or something you'd replace? Thanks for taking the time to make these videos... they are very helpful!
That looks like a hair from the dog...lol. There were no cracks....awesome eye!
It's the dreaded FM!
I noticed that too. ???
ALWAYS lubricate the threads unless the manufacturer says otherwise. All head bolts, on older cars especially, require a lubricant if it is in a blind hole or thread sealer if the bolt goes in a water jacket like small block Chevy. Lubricate the head bolts or you will have an inaccurate torque reading.
I would not necessarily say always, but great comment!
Well it HAD a coating. lol
Thank you for helpfull information.
Thank you my friend
7:22 those rocker arms look NICE...
Thank you, they came out nice
Hey Pete, on 13:56 you mention the head torque sequence but you dont show unless i missed it. But if you didn't could you share the torque sequence with me please?
Always start in the middle and work out
waaw great video thank you
Thanks my friend
Nice!!
B> patient >U will kick your self on start up :)
Absolutely
Hello I’m doing a 65 mustang with a 289 hipo motor is it the same as what your doing
No, a Ford 289 is much different.
what if you wanted to get a custom ground cam with a little extra lift? do you use the same rockers? they look totally different from regular rockers and rollers
You would have to get a custom cam because they don't make any for this engine anymore. You could use the same rockers.
Thank you so much Sir
So then the next valves to adjust would be on the next cylinder in the firing order, is that right? And you'd bring that cylinder up to TDC and make the adjustments, is that right too?
You could do that. I like to go right down the side and bring each one up to compression stroke.
Just asked this but this works thanks!
Excellent video, Your pick for the super bowl ?
Thanks Johnathan. I predict the team with the most points will win. Other than that I don't waste my time watching football.
Cam timing is timed on number on number six. Ign timing on number 1
Yes
Hello Engine Pete !
Why are the Headgasket holes not round?
Thank You
Yes sir....it is common to have irregular gasket holes for the cylinders for valve clearance or combustion issues. I'm not sure why this one is like that, but I suspect that when they bored out the block from the original size they were worried about expansion.
Can you tell me why the pistons move at different times please. Like some are at the bottom while some are at the top
It's a lot smoother, there's no point having 4 pistons to fire at the same time.
Thanks everyone! The pistons move in a different order to keep the rotation balanced and the power even.
Hi, good job!!
Question? so the all model about the rocker arm, is gonna be the same way you did it and different cars too?
or got to be in different way?
thank u for u support !!
This engine has solid lifters which requires adjustable rockers. Hydraulic lifters require a pre-load. There are a few different types of lifter configurations.
Pete what do you think about the Shelby F150 truck? nice shelby diecast, theres a shelby truck hauling an ac cobra pretty nice👍
It looks prett cool
no set screw or anything on the valve lash adjustment?
No, They are like a clinch nut. The threads are real tight, but I would like to see a set screw.
nice video
torque scatter... always lube threads
Not necessarily, it's not needed and throws off the torque curve
Another rocker...another spring...another rocker...
Rinse and repeat
What a treat as we will be able to see it run on the dyno as well. Dee-luxe! lol.
That's my plan...When they get it on the dyno, the start up goes pretty quick so I have to run down there when they call.
Oops. This video is missing from your "Engine Rebuilding" playlist.
Thanks Scott...I'll add it
@@PetesGarage Cool. Love the videos. I'm learning so much. I've always been into woodworking so this is all new to me.
Oh, what happened between videos 2 and 3 (or was it between 3 and 4) where the valve covers and spark plugs got installed?
I'll have to look
Chinesium cotter pin breaks off after ten miles jambs up oil pump.
Intersting
Pete, great tip on that chemical from CRC for paint removal. Just some constructive criticism, you need to do some hand detailing before you make videos bud. Just pretend lotion and clippers are lube and pliers lol.
That's a great idea, sometimes I just work along
Timing looked like it out 180 you shore that the compression wasn't the exhaust try to get out
Your exhaust valve must be to loose and you think compression stroke but its exhaust stroke its 180 out look at video no 2
We all make mistakes
It was fine, and it ran great
Old Mercedes gaskets are graphited and they get grease on their faces.
That's very interesting