Engine Rebuilding Studebaker 289 - Assembly Part 2
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- Опубликовано: 5 ноя 2024
- Installing the crank gear, cam, and cam gear on the 1962 Studebaker 289
gasket sealer
ARP bolts
Fel-pro gaskets
High Tack
Right Stuff
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I’m enjoying this Studebaker build, something out of the ordinary, refreshing. I got a chuckle from the claw hammer, thought I was seeing my father at work, his tool box consisted of said claw hammer, a hatchet, two pipe wrenches and the most abused looking flat blade screw driver you can imagine. About 1960 or so, he discovered ViceGrips, which became his go to tool. Thanks to him, I learned to swear in multiple languages.
That's a funny story right there!
Just bought an old 259 studebaker engine. Thank you for making these videos. Valuable information. Good work
Great engine, have fun
I love the simplicity of this engine. Great video. Thanks!
It was fun to work on.
You Sir are humble and knowledgeable.That said, at the end when you superimpose words above Shelby's head I almost fell out of my chair! Very funny especially when Shelby reaches around to the posterior.
Keep up the great work.
Thanks David....she keeps me company and sometime I wonder if she thinks I'm crazy talking to myself...lol
Thanks for the video of this engine. I was looking at a '63 Lark with a 289 Stude engine and I was unfamiliar with it. Nice to see a truck -style gear drive on the cam, that must have a little whine to it ! Is that a Silicon Aluminum, alloy replacement gear? One note - you can't "accidentally" time the cam 180 out. If the marks are (still) aligned after a couple rotations - its in phase. Now the distributor is another story. Even the best and most experienced builders seem to get them in a tooth or two off. I think that's because they don't take into account the mechanical AND vacuum timing advance. They usually just point the rotor to the #1 cap terminal. Most dist fire 30+ deg before TDC at high idle vacuum . I would set the engine at 35 deg BTDC and open the mechanical flyweights, then rotate the distributor until the #1 cyl points are just opening. You can do this with coil on and use a spark as reference. The rotor should be on the approach side to cylinder 1 terminal. if not, you will have to remove the dist and move it a tooth in the correct direction. This very confusing to many mechanics. Sometimes or maybe most times we just like to roll the dice and hope for a good outcome here. :) - Sandy
Thanks Sandy, it's a composite gear, not sure of the material. Great point about the distributor and timing, thanks
at around 4:30, that gear you're tapping on, I know wit air-cooled engine like VW, Porche etc., you're supposed to heat them in hot motor oil so the metal expands. Start at cold and raise it up to a couple hundred degrees kinda like you're deep frying something. The expanded metal slides right on there, i dont know if that'd make it easier for you. Just food for thought. Enjoying this video series!
That is a good idea. If this one did not slip on so easily I would have preheated it in an oven.
My day is complete now that this is uploaded, love these videos, keep em' coming man! You're the best!
I'm working on them every day.....thank you
You could also press the lower gear on to the crankshaft with a self made press on tool (saw that there is a thread in the shafts end). That way you can prevent axial force going through the crankshaft and potentially break or bend it if you knock on it to hard.
I do have a hydraulic press tool, but I wanted to show a regular guy how to do it. I said there are many ways to do it. If it went on tight I would have used the hydraulic press. I understand your point, thank you
You are a star and now you have added carpenter to your CV. great stuff many thanks for reply. it dose bring back memories when i was building. Hillman Imp engines and gear boxes over 40 years ago This was engine at the rear end job a good money spinner always breaking down ( before they came in to me for fixing )!!!
Interesting
If you can find a long bolt that is the same size as the cam, you can use it as a handle instead of just holding on to the "nose" of the cam. Makes things easier. : )
That is a great suggestion
Thanks love the car
Me too!
Really appreciate these videos, thanks so much for making them!
Thank you for watching
Hi Pete, I'm following this rebuilding, man I got tell you great engine in great hands, congrats, cant wait for the next video. take it easy man bye
Thank you my friend. I'm trying to show those who want to try it themselves
lubing the camshaft lobes and leave the bearings out. cannot be more stubborn than that dude.
I only put the assembly lube on the lobes because it is a solid lifter cam. I heavily oiled every bearing internally just before sliding the cam in, then I add oil before putting the oil pan on.
If you dont have the tool for the cam gear its ok use a solid bolt not soft ... not to damage the tread... on that bolt put a nut all the way .. then two washers.. slide your gear has far has you can.. use the bolt on the cam make sure that its tight and all the way on and make sure that you have the two washers between the cam gear and the nut on the bolt. hold the bolt in place with ratchet and a wrench to back the nut. go slow and it should be essay. then release the pressure for the nut and remove the bolt. have a good day!!
Awesome! Thanks for the tip!
Pete did Shelby inspect all of your torques and sign off on them. Somebody has to be the inspector. Lol 😊
Of course
You should open an online course.
That's a great idea
Whis playing with the old pistons while you were putting on the Cam
what would be the torque numbers for the two bolts of the cam retaining plate ????? ...... awesome video though !!!!
I seem to recall 15 ft lbs
awesome .... thanks man .... as always ... keep up the great work
Thank you again Sir
Why are you using a carpenters hammer that's for pulling nails out, great video interesting
I was pulling out nails moments before I made the video :)
thanks for the video! real interesting stuff
Thanks my friend
Hello sir,I'm from India and I'm a mechanical engineer student.this things attracted me so much but it's not possible for me to do this practically because nothing is available in college......please suggest me what to do and how to gain lots of knowledge related to this
I admire you interest. If you do not have access to a school, watching videos and doing the work yourself is the best way to learn
I would think it is possible to find a Studebaker V8 engine sitting around somewhere in India. Search around on the internet and you'll probably find one in a old Studebaker truck 1955 through 1964.
Should you put loctite on the cam retainer plate bolts?
There wasn't any on them when I took them out. You can if you like but I'd use the blue
1st timer rebuild 3.6l I have both heads off and chain off no rotation from crankshaft bolt trying figure what's next any suggestions
Gotta have 1 or more pistons backwards
make sure u have a lite oil on your piston as u turn that crank >wear your gloves.
True, thanks Mike
Whats up with the two holes that is part of the oil gallery that is in between the cam and crank gear. the one that is behind the cam gear that you did not install. Talk about no oil pressure, I wonder how many people have blown their engines because of this video.Tthanks for the incomplete video on how to rebuild a engine with no oil pressure.
I would encourage you to look again, those are oil drain back holes to lube the timing gears. There is no pressure in them
No belts, no chains, not possible for valve timing to be 180 out. Ignition is another story.
Of course it's not possible, but it never hurts to check
A carry over from timing belts, where such a check is necessary, so probably best not to change routine from engine to engine, agreed.
Lol what is that dog doing at 08:03
Lol....she rubs her face on the chair. It's an easy way to itch her nose.
Such a rare puppers.
I love em
What is happening on that recliner while you're putting on the cam gear lol? I'm really enjoying this series. Thank you.
That dog is crazy....always rubbing her face like that
After noticing this, I checked the comments to see if anyone else noticed.
At approximately 10:18 is there debris or a broken off bolt in the timing cover bolt hole at about the 11 o'clock position?
where?!
I just looked. It's an optical illusion. That is a through hole and you are seeing the block through the hole.
+Petes Garage
OK, I see now, it just looks different than the other bolt holes.
Thanks.
u locked the crank shaft with the key so how can we remove the key its looking hard to remove again
It pops out again
What do you use to clean that block like that.
I talk about cleaning parts in another video. Oven cleaner works well.
The security dog was awake Thanks Pete
Yeah...lol, it was like 5 PM so she was up
Hahah I love the pug at 8:15, ours does the same ;) Great video as always Pete.
She's crazy
What did you use to clean the Studebaker block with? If you had it cleaned, what is the normal rate of charge for that?
It gets dip clean then baked and blasted. It's about $100
Did you get it painted? What keeps it from rusting?
A claw hammer shouldn't be anywhere near an engine...
One of my goals is to encourage anyone who wants to build or rebuild their own engine. That means that I need to show you do not need thousands of dollars in special tools to do it. A hammer is simply a weight on a handle. If someone is rebuilding their 350 Chevy they don't need to buy $150 worth of hammers or mallets to put it back together.
@@PetesGarage
I was being facetious, I'm a retired Ford Lincoln Mercury technician, fighting cancer at the moment and have been binge watching, a Studebaker truck fan...
Ok, thanks for the comment
So this engine doesn't require a timing belt? Because the crank gear and cam gear are intertwined.
Thanks
Correct
Good one!
That oil pump "washer" does not look quite at 12 ? Maybe I don't see good. How important is that it sits top dead at 12 o'clock ?
Which washer? I didn't put in the oil pump yet in this video.
Excentirc washer at 9:42 , fuel pump washer ?
That is the fuel pump eccentric and it only goes in one way. It is not adjustable
OK, got it ! Thanks.
Hey Pete, my 289 had two shims that were bent and torn. I need two of them but can’t find anywhere that has them. Not even studebaker national which is where I got the engine rebuild kit. You have any clues or ideas of where I can get some or even make some?
Hand cut them from shim stock
Help me with specification torque settings for 4D35 canter engine.. main bearing, Conrad caps and cylinder head bolts????
Main 130 ft lbs
Rod bolt 92 ft lbs
Head bolt 145 ft lbs
Thanks what about valve lash settings intake and exhaust..
Nice!!
Why use old cam? U know those old humps hav wear! Oh going to use old lifters too?? I seen dude rebuild 1969 Pontiac 400 it ran great just had lots of blow by and low oil pressure at idle when at operating temp! Changed rings n rod n crank bearings got new timing set n oil pump n new lifters n used same cam put her back together! No blow by n Idled with 35lbs oil pressure at operating temp!! But after few thousand miles lifters started whacking pull cam n lifters out cam was rounded off not just one hump but whole length of cam was humpless stuck new lifters back n it she's still running today
Well, there are no new cams made, even a close aftermarket. The lifters were in very good shape and the spring pressure is very low so the risk is minimal.
what tool do you use for the cam gear?
It's a gear press tool....you can get them at Harbor Freight for like $17
thank my guide from Automotive
Thank you
I'd like to rebuild my 62 Studebaker transtar 289
It's an easy one to do
Need to get me a security dog like that!
You could probably steal her
So this engine doesn't use a timing chain right?... the crank gear and the cam gear are in constant mesh.
Yes
It's a Studebaker V8, timing gears instead of chains, solid lifters, forged crank and pushrods. They are heavy for their size but things are TOUGH.
that pretty cool
Like how Shelby looked at you at 10:18 like who you talking too lmao
I'm sure she wonders
Lol keep up the great videos
You are very beautiful and very sweet my dear thank you very much
Thanks my friend
Nice dog.
She's awesome
I want to be a mechanic but I don't know what to do. I want to go to uti but 1 it cost a lot and 2 I heard there's other ways to be a mechanic.
learn by seeing, youtube videos are free to watch and you already grasp a lot from it. later on when you're more confident, start helping your friends with repairs and that's how you build yourself up absolutely free.
I agree. Learn by doing.
Daniel Moreno I went to UTI and BMW STEP. It is kinda pricey but they have a really good program. I didn't know much about being a technician when I started at UTI but I work for BMW now and I love it. I learn something new everyday. I would recommend going to UTI to anyone that doesn't have much experience but is trying to get started in the industry. Just my input. Good luck brother.
stilkus and Pete, don't you need a certificate or something to work a shop or something? So don't you have to go to a tech school?
Jordan Belfort Were the test you got a UTI hard? And which one did you go to and what was your tuition once you were done?
cool
what is the motor out of?
1962 Studebaker Hawk
Awesome cars!
haha dog very lovely
First . Was 20 something by the time video ended.
You guys are awesome!
my bad oil pressure relive valve
Thank you
2:30 piece of brass, anyone? :)
Good point
I got unsubscribed
Well resubscribe
Really? A claw hammer? Your not building a house. Don't you own a ball ping hammer? SMH! And your previous episode after you set the crank in & was checking the thrust clearance you were only suppose to install the number one cap and the thrust bearing cap only. Then with a soft face hammer (plastic dead blow or brass), tap the crank nose (moving the crankshaft rearward). Install a dial indicator to read on the crank flange or nose of the engine. Using a large (clean) screwdriver or pry bar, move the crankshaft backward. Zero the gauge on the dial indicator. Pry the crankshaft forward and check the reading. Record the measurement. Next, torque the caps to specs and repeat the process. Compare the measurements. If the second reading is less than the first, there’s a chance the rear main cap shifted and the thrust surfaces are misaligned. And you really need to be using a dial indicator, not feeler gauges.
Sadly, I did not find any engine building videos on your channel. A couple of points for you. I have every tool and fine measuring device available. When I make videos such as these I use tools that a regular person may have. My goal is to help anyone who wants to rebuild their own engine. I would not be helping if I said they had to buy thousands of dollars of special tools to do it. As for the thrust clearance I ask you watch the next video in the series. Thank you for your detailed comment. There is some valuable information for others.
😷🤪🔧🔧🔧🏁🔥
Thanks Curtis