Ok you can do it that way, another alternate way Pull the battery and holder and you can access the top nut with extension 13 mm . Please note that you will need to move the tire left or right depending on which side your changing. I just did the right side on my mower this morning . Check it out. I didn't pull the steering gear plate.
I appreciate you trying to help by making this video, but perhaps you should watch some videos on this repair first. I just replaced both of the drag links on my LGT 2554 and performed the swap using access holes in the top of the frame . All you have to do is turn the wheel as far as you can in each direction to get the rear drag link nuts to line up with the holes. The access hole is round on one side and rectangular on the other. You don't even have to touch the gear sector plate.
Thanks for viewing.I personally found dropping the gear is really easy and like less than ten minutes to remove the whole unit.I guess as we all do repairs we all find different methods to fix things.Thanks again
@@Ron1987 I have a Husqvarna YTH24K48. The drag links are the same part numbers. However, on my tractor, the steering gear plate has to be removed because there is a plastic cap covering the drag link nut where it attaches to the steering gear plate. Those plastic caps are held in place by the steering gear plate. For me, I removed the cutting deck, turned the tractor on it's side, and removed the steering gear and gear plate from the bottom. Because it was this difficult to access the drag link nuts, I ordered the right hand link as well as the left link. I will replace both of them when the other link arrives. Don't want to go through this agony again.
@@commonleadership48 Yeah the drag link job is a touch tedious.I quickly figured out that the gear plate had to be removed since the nuts and the plastic guides are held in place by it.Reason I did this video and hoped it helped anyone who has to tackle this job.Thanks
@@Ron1987 thank you for the follow-up. I don't see how anyone can change the drag links on this tractor without dropping the gear plate to remove the plastic guide caps. H.O. trainiac must have a model without plastic guide caps. For my tractor, I ended up removing the steering gear bracket because I didn't have a wrench that would get to the back side of the large nut.
@wranglerman2523 You have to remove the steering shaft( cotter pin and the Gear on the End, has a allen head screw or screw).Assume your replacing the steering shaft? Or is his the drag link your asking about.
That I do not know.However I did replace my front axle and it is pretty simple to do! Just jack up the mower and support the mower with jack stands behind the wheels.Then remove the e clips holding the wheel on,remove it.Then take the rubber caps off the top where the spindle inserts into the axle remove the E clip there.Then if your Not replacing your tie rod ends leave them connected and the spindle will fall down and lay to the side.Both sides are the same on this.Now on the 1 bolt holding the axle the muffler might be in the Way and it may be necess.to remove that(I did).take said bolt and nut loose and remove.Axle will drop out with some mild pulling.I suggest buying the Heavy duty front axle versus the OEM version.At this time you may want to consider just a Full front end update with new bearings and tie rods all at once in my opinion.IF you have any further questions feel free to ask,I will assist you the best I can.R
Its been awhile but I think on My Originals they the nuts came off clockwise.However the new parts it were the opposite.I say just use a combo wrench hold the top (where its like a nut) and try to break them free like most standard hardware.Sorry for the late reply just super busy long work days.
found the drag links for $52 a pair at www.jeremywellindustry.com, you can get them on Amazon also from same supplier. They don't carry the nuts though.
This is a fairly simple repair and felt showing a step by step was not needed.I simply added details to the process I followed and it is intended to give everyone a good route if this repair has to be done.
@@Ron1987 I think you explained it well enough for me to get through it, my left ball joint just disconnected itself from the link, am I going to need to buy any of the nuts talked about? Seems like the new link would be it.
@@Ron1987 Also, when changing the belt yesterday I noticed on the left side it gets dangerously close to the drag link and I think it rubs in some instances, have you come across this before?
On recall I think the belt may have rubbed but,I think it was due to some slack in the belt.Being I have not dug out my old drag links to see if there was any rub marks(I think there was some) but never had a issue directly from that.
the new link may or may not have the nuts new depending on the parts business you buy from.I know alot of these parts can be purchased on ebay and generally come with everything new.When I bought my parts I got them from partstree.com and things are sold in some categories as a piece by piece overly complicated (should have some hardware) if it is part of the part.Ebay is my recommend just use the OEM numbers they will be on there.Plus SAVE money
Ok you can do it that way, another alternate way Pull the battery and holder and you can access the top nut with extension 13 mm . Please note that you will need to move the tire left or right depending on which side your changing. I just did the right side on my mower this morning . Check it out. I didn't pull the steering gear plate.
Thanks for showing the part numbers!
I appreciate your video.
Your welcome I tried to be as specific about the process and related information needed.
I appreciate you trying to help by making this video, but perhaps you should watch some videos on this repair first. I just replaced both of the drag links on my LGT 2554 and performed the swap using access holes in the top of the frame . All you have to do is turn the wheel as far as you can in each direction to get the rear drag link nuts to line up with the holes. The access hole is round on one side and rectangular on the other. You don't even have to touch the gear sector plate.
Thanks for viewing.I personally found dropping the gear is really easy and like less than ten minutes to remove the whole unit.I guess as we all do repairs we all find different methods to fix things.Thanks again
@@Ron1987 I have a Husqvarna YTH24K48. The drag links are the same part numbers. However, on my tractor, the steering gear plate has to be removed because there is a plastic cap covering the drag link nut where it attaches to the steering gear plate. Those plastic caps are held in place by the steering gear plate. For me, I removed the cutting deck, turned the tractor on it's side, and removed the steering gear and gear plate from the bottom. Because it was this difficult to access the drag link nuts, I ordered the right hand link as well as the left link. I will replace both of them when the other link arrives. Don't want to go through this agony again.
@@commonleadership48 Yeah the drag link job is a touch tedious.I quickly figured out that the gear plate had to be removed since the nuts and the plastic guides are held in place by it.Reason I did this video and hoped it helped anyone who has to tackle this job.Thanks
@@Ron1987 thank you for the follow-up. I don't see how anyone can change the drag links on this tractor without dropping the gear plate to remove the plastic guide caps. H.O. trainiac must have a model without plastic guide caps. For my tractor, I ended up removing the steering gear bracket because I didn't have a wrench that would get to the back side of the large nut.
Great video.. thanks! 😊
How do you get the plastic looking part off the steering plate thank you for your time
@wranglerman2523 You have to remove the steering shaft( cotter pin and the Gear on the End, has a allen head screw or screw).Assume your replacing the steering shaft? Or is his the drag link your asking about.
Is there a video for replacing front axle on a Husqvarna riding mower?
That I do not know.However I did replace my front axle and it is pretty simple to do! Just jack up the mower and support the mower with jack stands behind the wheels.Then remove the e clips holding the wheel on,remove it.Then take the rubber caps off the top where the spindle inserts into the axle remove the E clip there.Then if your Not replacing your tie rod ends leave them connected and the spindle will fall down and lay to the side.Both sides are the same on this.Now on the 1 bolt holding the axle the muffler might be in the Way and it may be necess.to remove that(I did).take said bolt and nut loose and remove.Axle will drop out with some mild pulling.I suggest buying the Heavy duty front axle versus the OEM version.At this time you may want to consider just a Full front end update with new bearings and tie rods all at once in my opinion.IF you have any further questions feel free to ask,I will assist you the best I can.R
Are you certain about the drag link ends being left hand thread (turn clockwise to loosen)?
Its been awhile but I think on My Originals they the nuts came off clockwise.However the new parts it were the opposite.I say just use a combo wrench hold the top (where its like a nut) and try to break them free like most standard hardware.Sorry for the late reply just super busy long work days.
the nuts on both the original link and the replacement link were normal right hand threads
found the drag links for $52 a pair at www.jeremywellindustry.com, you can get them on Amazon also from same supplier. They don't carry the nuts though.
amazon as them as well
Bunch of talking, doesn't really show anything of the actual job
This is a fairly simple repair and felt showing a step by step was not needed.I simply added details to the process I followed and it is intended to give everyone a good route if this repair has to be done.
@@Ron1987 I think you explained it well enough for me to get through it, my left ball joint just disconnected itself from the link, am I going to need to buy any of the nuts talked about? Seems like the new link would be it.
@@Ron1987 Also, when changing the belt yesterday I noticed on the left side it gets dangerously close to the drag link and I think it rubs in some instances, have you come across this before?
On recall I think the belt may have rubbed but,I think it was due to some slack in the belt.Being I have not dug out my old drag links to see if there was any rub marks(I think there was some) but never had a issue directly from that.
the new link may or may not have the nuts new depending on the parts business you buy from.I know alot of these parts can be purchased on ebay and generally come with everything new.When I bought my parts I got them from partstree.com and things are sold in some categories as a piece by piece overly complicated (should have some hardware) if it is part of the part.Ebay is my recommend just use the OEM numbers they will be on there.Plus SAVE money