He dennis. Thanks so much for this video. Just did this to mine, went smooth, saved me much money comapred to sending it to a pro. One tip I doscovered. Hammering down the bushing was tough, so I took a 1" scrap of pvc pipe, cut it to a slight bevel to match angle, slipped it over the shaft and it worked great.
I have same mower but with Kohler engine.. has 689 hrs. Never ever done anything to it. Just bought new one with brigs engine. But already have had to redo wheel bushings. They just don’t make them like the oldies. Love your videos!! Very well done, easy to understand!!
I just bought a YTH22V46 like yours. I have sub'd and you will be my "go to Guy" for any problems I will have. Before I picked up my tractor from Lowe's, which was already put together, I asked the salesman if he bled the hydrostatic transmission before he drove it out. He looked at me with a puzzled look on his face. Anyway, before I picked up the mower after I ordered it(took two weeks to get to the store) I already watched many of your videos. Keep up the good work. You are a very good "teacher". Skip
Super video, I am so fortunate to have the same tractor as Dennis, because I couldn't have done any of these repairs without his videos, and I have done 4 or 5 now...
I had the same rattle / free play on mine too .... I solved it by taking off the steering wheel and putting a large O-ring down over the plastic splined part the wheel fits down on .. while the end bushing you show can cause some wobble .. the play in the wheel does most of it .. A good way to get the bushing you illustrate down is to use a pipe or tube down over the whole steering shaft .. easy way to apply even pressure ... Thanks for the videos. very helpful
I would suggest a piece of thin foam with adhesive be stuck to the underside of the steering wheel’s top washer to fill the slack between the metal washer and plastic steering wheel. Thanks Dennis for making these videos. Peace be with you.
we have the same mowers and I gather the same type of terrain to mow so, when you get a new mower, let me know and I will buy the same. You're a great deal of help and I suspect will continue to be. Thank you for your lack of drama and over-the-top production nonsense.
Thank you so much for watching and for you support, Randy! I appreciate it. I have actually just bought a Hustler Raptor zero turn. So watch for upcoming videos about it! I gave my Husqvarna to my son, so I will still be making videos on it as the need arises.
Dennis. I am so glad I found your RUclips channel. You gave excellent service guidance and your videos are on point. To add to this I like your style. Keep your videos coming. Husqvarna riding lawnmower owner.
Very much appreciate your videos. I own a 21K46 and your assortment of videos has saved me! You're a great teacher! Patient and kindness goes a long way!
Hello Dennis, thanks for another informative video on the YTH22V46. Keep up the good work. FYI - a competitor channel to yours offers up a "work around" for secure placement of the bushing: they created a "push pipe" by using a 1" conduit pipe (of adequate length) with one end cut to a 30 degrees angle to put against the bushing while easily tapping the pipe's other end to complete the bushing installation. That conduit pipe is then a keeper for future use on this yard tractor or possibly others to include a "loaner tool" for neighbors. Hope an "edit" to this video can be possible to help other DIY fixers. Best regards for your maintenance support.
Thanks for watching! I actually thought about doing that with a piece of pipe but decided not to since I only had one to do. If I had more than on e to install, I would definitely do it that way!
@@dwcoffey Understood Mr Coffey but I believe most DIY guys always want to have tools for everything they might encounter.. besides, having this tool in the shop drawer shall be helpful for your "next" mower, right? No Reply Necessary, just chuckle out loud.
Thank you for the awesome video!I feel confident enough to do this job myself now after watching you. I just ordered my part from amazon. fingers cross!
Thank you foir demonstrating this. I have a very similar Craftsman mower. This will help tremendously. Looks like you could use another large washer under the steering wheel to tighten it.
Doing this on my Craftsman. Couldn't find this part under the "Steering" schematic on Sears Parts Direct, that's because they keep it under "Chassis". Nice video!
Dennis, you need to buy a lower steering shaft support/bushing and mount it up top in place of the crapy plastic bushing that is sloppy even when new. And your steering problems are over!
If you are sure the steering wheel is in the correct rotational position, you can take up much of the play with some hot melt glue in the gap. That stuff sticks to anything clean and dry pretty well. I strengthened the wheel covers on my 2000 Ford Expedition with some. I washed them and went around the entire inside with a bead of it. They are made in 2 pieces which can eventually come apart. If that happens, you are out $50 for each one, if Ford still has any available, which I doubt. Hot melt works quite well on anything which doesn't get hot. You can warm the parts if you have big pieces to assemble. That will give you time to get them in position before the stuff cools too much. Of course, the parts must be perfectly clean and dry for it to work. If you need to take stuff apart, just warm the parts with a heat gun until the glue softens.
Just a quick note about the steering wheel being loose, you can order a replacement toothed holder for the wheel, the replacement from Husquvarna is made out of metal and solved the steering wheel wobble and were not expensive.
The issue is that the nut on the steering wheel does not fully clamp the washer to the steering rod. What I did was buy another smaller but thick washer and place this under the large washer and my steering wheel has been tight for three years now.
99 44/100 of your videos are clear ,concise EASY to grasp.My comment refers to Mandrel Covers. I have a YTH22V42 came without Mandrel covers. Question will any other YTH22V 44 thru 48 covers fit. Husqvarna will not confirm. YTH22V42 purchased 2009.thank you
Thanks for watching, Don! It's hard to say since Husqvarna didn't include covers on the YTH22V42 deck spindles. The size of the spindles and pulleys are very similar to the YTH22V46, so you could probably drill a few holes and make those covers work.
I believe the teeth for the steering wheel mount serve the purpose of clocking the wheel for dead straight. After you've used the mower a little while to break in the tie rods and such you could just glue the two pieces together.
Thanks for watching! Yes, the hub has teeth on the OD and a hole on the ID to match the shaft shoulder, so that's what ties the wheel to the shaft. Turns out the play is not between the teeth in the hub and the grooves in the wheel, but more between the hub hole and the steering shaft. I still haven't fixed it though....hahaha!
Thanks Dennis, I have a new Husqvarna ride on and the steering wheel is not straight, so I am going to have a go at removing the steering wheel now, cheers
mines a bit sloppy too,i just did the front wheel bushing to actual bearings today,added some washers to take up excess slop, on the spindles, led headlight bulbs,....next the steering wheel,by the way donnyboy on you tube did a choke adjustment on this intek,and made mine start way easier,the cable just has a simple clamp by the carb t25 torx, if it slips it wont choke fully, and theres excessive play in the link that closes the choke plates, just loosen the t25,pull the cable by hand with the throttle in full choke,and retighten the t25 torx screw...,no more slop,easy cold starts,
Thanks for watching, Mark. I'll check it out. I've been playing with the choke on mine to fix that hard-start problem too, so might do another vid. thanks!
@@dwcoffey, hard starting may very well be rust on the magneto faces as well as the flywheel magnet. Get that off (the rust is a resistor to magnetic fields). Once it is off, the magnetos generate the required field at lower rpm. Also, there are upgrades to the Nikki carburetors used.
Thanks, Dennis, I will need to get this welded. Thanks for your help as always. Is it important to have that wheel on the mower? Thanks again, my friend.
You can cut without it, but if you have any dips or high places in your yard, without that wheel, the high spots will get scalped. As always, thanks for supporting my channel!
Hey sir. I checked my wheel. I'm in Canada and have a metal like gear connected to the steering wheel but same plastic wheel. Same issue, a lot of play. Figured out it's nylon wear on the wheel. I added 1 strip of gorilla tape around the metal hub and all good now.
My problem is when I turn the steering wheel on my Husky, it cracks like crazy, and the noise seems to be coming from just under the steering wheel. Any idea what could be causing that ? Great video btw. You take care, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Ray! My first guess would be the cracking is from this steering bushing. I'd suggest to open the hood, look up underneath the dash where the steering shaft comes thru and turn the wheel side to side to see if you can determine where the noise is coming from. If it is between the dash and the steering wheel, the problem will most likely be this bushing.
Dennis, one person ordered a lower shaft bushing which is metal, and flange mounted, drilled 2 holes and mounted it, although it you got better than 200 hours out of the original, it may not be worth the effort.
Wrap some tape around the gear teeth before pushing steering wheel back on. The play is in that toothed gear in the steering wheel.....thanks for video..
Dennis, just had my steering wheel off today... a thought: If the wheel teeth or the hub teeth are starting to go, could you use some electrical tape around the teeth of the hub as a shim to reduce the amount of slop in that area?
Thanks for watching, Nicholas! Yes sir, I think that would work fine for wear in the teeth. I suppose if the wear is really bad, a strip cut from rubber tire tube would also work. I have found on mine that the excess play seems to come from a gap between the toothed gear and the back side of the steering wheel. I'm not sure how that gap has developed because there is no sign of wear on the two mating surfaces. So....I haven't tried it yet, but I'm going to try a large fender washer either between the wheel and the gear and/or behind the gear.
Thanks for watching, Richard! Yea, I noticed that last time I was there too. The bushing took all the slop out of the steering shaft, so that is much nicer. I'm going to figure out a way to tighten up that steering wheel though. Bugs me. I'll post a vid when I figure something out.
Dennis, I need your help. How do you replace the guide wheel? It is separated from the mower. Do you need to weld the wheel on the mower? Thanks for your help.
Thanks for watching! Are you talking about the anti-scalp wheel on the side of the mower deck? If the bracket is intact and the wheel has just come off, there's usually a bolt with a could of washers that hold the wheel on. If the bracket has come off the deck, you'll probably need to wled the bracket back on.
I’ll do this fix, ours has this play. I might use some SteelStik epoxy on the worn area, with a small piece of tape to keep it from sticking to the steel column. Btw, what’s the cost of this new bushing?
No one has a video removing the bushing on a Craftsman DLS 3500. The column has two parts and the bushing can't slide out past the top part. I think it's screwed on, but why a steering column would have a screwed on extension is beyond me.
Thanks Dennis, my poulan tractor only has about 30 hours on it, but would you recommend greasing that steering wheel hub as part of the lubrication schedule, or is it a throwaway part that just needs to be replaced?
Thanks for watching, Nicholas! I don't see any need to grease the hub in the center of the steering wheel. It doesn't move on another part, so I don't think lubing it will help anything. The bushing itself is more of a friction fit, so probably not worth lubing it either, but a littler white lithium grease or something light, would hurt anything.
@@dwcoffey loving these videos you're coming out with, by the time I get to your level of hours on my tractor ill have a whole library ready for my repair stuff!
Didn't help me much but I have 1 much older. Metal gear under steering wheel....mine has a pin rhat keeps shaft from dropping too low . Easy to put back in with steering wheel off wiggle shaft slides right in rotate until pin locks unto shaft
Thanks for watching, John! I haven't seen them totally wear out, but it sure seems they get a little sloppy over time. I don't know if replacing the toothed hub would help take out some of the play.
Hi Dennis, I just started this project thinking it would be easy after watching your video. Turns out my Husqvarna YTH18K46 has a metal-like steering wheel adapter. I cannot get that adapter off the shaft. I tried WD-40 to perhaps loosen it up since it is about 8 years old and tried just prying it with a little force, even pulling on it. Nothing works to get that adapter off. The adapter has little teeth of its own on the inside diameter. Yours was quite different having just to pull it off.
Thanks for watching, Perry. Interesting. The diagrams I have for the YTH18K46 show a similar adapter to mine, with two flats on the ID that match the end of the steering shaft. I've never seen one of these with splines on the ID. You should be able to take a dead blow hammer, or a soft faced hammer and tap on the bottom of the adapter to get it off the shaft.
Thanks for watching, Brian! I've thought of that, and think that may be a good solution too. Before I do that, I'm going to play with putting a fender washer under the large OEM washer....I think the culprit is the gap between the star-hub and the back of the steering wheel.....I'll keep y'all posted!
@@dwcoffey I just purchased the same tractor.... got a get deal ($1,424!!l at Lowe's (display model ... but in absolutely perfect condiction... has a July manufacturer date on the battery.... so it wasn't a display for very long!..... and damn it's quick! It's like blasting around on a carnival ride.... after I checked it all over and gassed her up I cut the lawn in record time..... at HALF throttle! Immediately came in the house and ordered the front bumper..... because this bad boy is FAST! Might need to add a seat belt and airbags.
HI: ANY IDEA HOW TO CHANGE OUT THE STARTER SOLENOID. i HAVE THE SAME MACHINE (LOVE IT) AND FROM WHAT i SEE, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL TO GET TO THE SCREW THAT HOLD THE SOLENOID IN PLACE. RIGHT OR WRONG? THANKS. DR. Z.
Thanks for watching, Louis! I'm sorry for the delay, I somehow overlooked this comment. Mine is under the cowling at the steering wheel, so I'm guessing about yours. It may be that you can lift the battery out and remove the battery box from under the seat and then get to the screw holding the solenoid in place.
Hi Dennis do you have a video on replacing the front most drive belt pulley near the steering gear? Its giving me a fit lining everything up and the bolt is spinning with the nut. Thanks!
@@dwcoffey its the idler pulley but it bolts to the frame under the steering shaft area. The bolt head up top is recessed and hard to reach. I got it finally! Thanks for replying.
Would this cause a "clicking noise" when turning only one direction? I have the same model mower at about 150 hours of use....and its making a clicking noise whenever I turn turn right....
Thanks for watching, Brett! Quite possibly. Could also be the steering quadrant gear underneath....apply a little white grease to it and the clicking may be resolved.
Woah there. Just a heads up. My parts list shows the same PN for my WHITE colored bushing. And that same number is MOLDED IN THE SLOPPY WHITE BUSHING. BUTTT! If you order that number today you will get a BLACK BUSHING that has a center hole TOO LARGE FOR THE SHAFT!!! To get the CORRECT fitting bushing to replace your WHITE colored bushing you need to order pn ENDING IN 228 AND NOT 227! The HUSQVARNA parts center knows nothing about this and will only direct you to order the 227 number. It was very frustrating for me but Amazon does list the white part ending in 228 if that is the one you require.. I hope this helps?
Hi Dennis, thank you for this video. Regarding the plate at the top of the steering wheel. Would it help tighten the steering wheel if another washer was added?
Thanks for watching, Jim! I think it will, and that's what I plan to try. Best I can tell, the steering wheel is loose because that existing washer isn't bearing on the top surface of the wheel, so its just acting as a keeper and allowing the excess play. I think another washer will take up the slack and tighten the wheel.
Do you know how to jump the clutch/brake pedal so it will start without being depressed. My switch is going bad and dang if i want to spend the $ on this. My steering is loose and worse of all lf wheel had no inner steel bushing, wheel wobbled bad. Pulled it apart, never greased nor r side. Like the tractor but they must use $5 an hour idiots to assemble.
Good video on how to replace that part, but it looks like it accomplished nothing as the steering wheel appears to still wobble and be loose which is the problem with mine, you make some great videos, but this one does not fix the problem you started with, you also said you would address the wobble with the wheel in another video, I have yet to see that, you kind of end the video skipping over the fact it did not fix the original issue you started with.
Thank you for watching! Replacing this bushing did fix the original problem....the steering _shaft_ was loose. It did not fix the problem of the steering _wheel_ being loose. I have not yet made a video showing how to fix the steering wheel problem.
He dennis. Thanks so much for this video. Just did this to mine, went smooth, saved me much money comapred to sending it to a pro. One tip I doscovered. Hammering down the bushing was tough, so I took a 1" scrap of pvc pipe, cut it to a slight bevel to match angle, slipped it over the shaft and it worked great.
Great idea! Thanks for watching!
This was the most thorough video. Doing mine this weekend.
Great! Thanks for watching, Todd!
Your husqvarna videos have been incredibly helpful. Ty for doing this. We are watching.
Thank you very much for watching!!
I have same mower but with Kohler engine.. has 689 hrs. Never ever done anything to it. Just bought new one with brigs engine. But already have had to redo wheel bushings. They just don’t make them like the oldies. Love your videos!! Very well done, easy to understand!!
I agree!! Thanks for watching!
I just bought a YTH22V46 like yours. I have sub'd and you will be my "go to Guy" for any problems I will have. Before I picked up my tractor from Lowe's, which was already put together, I asked the salesman if he bled the hydrostatic transmission before he drove it out. He looked at me with a puzzled look on his face. Anyway, before I picked up the mower after I ordered it(took two weeks to get to the store) I already watched many of your videos. Keep up the good work. You are a very good "teacher". Skip
Thank you so much, Skip! I appreciate you watching and subbing. Glad to know these vids are helpful!
Thank you Dennis for showing these videos. Visual aid is always the best learning tool and we benefit greatly from your channel.
Thank you so much! I appreciate you watching and supporting my channel!
Super video, I am so fortunate to have the same tractor as Dennis, because I couldn't have done any of these repairs without his videos, and I have done 4 or 5 now...
Glad to help! Thank you for watching, Chris!
Thanks Dennis. We have the same tractor. My steering is a bit sloppy as well. Had the tractor for 5 years now. Appreciate this video.
That's about the same time I had to replace mine. Thanks for watching, Joe!
I had the same rattle / free play on mine too .... I solved it by taking off the steering wheel and putting a large O-ring down over the plastic splined part the wheel fits down on ..
while the end bushing you show can cause some wobble .. the play in the wheel does most of it .. A good way to get the bushing you illustrate down is to use a pipe or tube down over the whole steering shaft .. easy way to apply even pressure ... Thanks for the videos. very helpful
Thanks for watching! Also, thanks for the tips, sounds like a great fix to me!
I would suggest a piece of thin foam with adhesive be stuck to the underside of the steering wheel’s top washer to fill the slack between the metal washer and plastic steering wheel. Thanks Dennis for making these videos. Peace be with you.
Thanks for watching, William! Great idea, thanks!
we have the same mowers and I gather the same type of terrain to mow so, when you get a new mower, let me know and I will buy the same. You're a great deal of help and I suspect will continue to be. Thank you for your lack of drama and over-the-top production nonsense.
Thank you so much for watching and for you support, Randy! I appreciate it. I have actually just bought a Hustler Raptor zero turn. So watch for upcoming videos about it! I gave my Husqvarna to my son, so I will still be making videos on it as the need arises.
Dennis. I am so glad I found your RUclips channel. You gave excellent service guidance and your videos are on point. To add to this I like your style. Keep your videos coming. Husqvarna riding lawnmower owner.
Thank you so much, Tina! I really appreciate your support and thanks for watching!
Very much appreciate your videos. I own a 21K46 and your assortment of videos has saved me! You're a great teacher! Patient and kindness goes a long way!
Thank you very much, David! I really appreciate the kind comments and thank you for watching!
Hello Dennis, thanks for another informative video on the YTH22V46. Keep up the good work. FYI - a competitor channel to yours offers up a "work around" for secure placement of the bushing: they created a "push pipe" by using a 1" conduit pipe (of adequate length) with one end cut to a 30 degrees angle to put against the bushing while easily tapping the pipe's other end to complete the bushing installation. That conduit pipe is then a keeper for future use on this yard tractor or possibly others to include a "loaner tool" for neighbors. Hope an "edit" to this video can be possible to help other DIY fixers. Best regards for your maintenance support.
Thanks for watching! I actually thought about doing that with a piece of pipe but decided not to since I only had one to do. If I had more than on e to install, I would definitely do it that way!
@@dwcoffey Understood Mr Coffey but I believe most DIY guys always want to have tools for everything they might encounter.. besides, having this tool in the shop drawer shall be helpful for your "next" mower, right? No Reply Necessary, just chuckle out loud.
Thank you for the awesome video!I feel confident enough to do this job myself now after watching you. I just ordered my part from amazon. fingers cross!
I hope it went well! Thanks for watching, Chelsea!
Another informative video thank you for your time helping guys like me...God bless.
As always, thank you Danny! I really appreciate your continued support and encouragement!
Thank you foir demonstrating this. I have a very similar Craftsman mower. This will help tremendously. Looks like you could use another large washer under the steering wheel to tighten it.
Thank you David, I appreciate you watching. You're probably right about needing to add a washer.
Doing this on my Craftsman. Couldn't find this part under the "Steering" schematic on Sears Parts Direct, that's because they keep it under "Chassis". Nice video!
Thank you Aaron! I appreciate you watching!
Dennis, you need to buy a lower steering shaft support/bushing and mount it up top in place of the crapy plastic bushing that is sloppy even when new. And your steering problems are over!
Sounds like a fantastic idea, Jack! Thank you! I appreciate you watching too!
If you are sure the steering wheel is in the correct rotational position, you can take up much of the play with some hot melt glue in the gap. That stuff sticks to anything clean and dry pretty well. I strengthened the wheel covers on my 2000 Ford Expedition with some. I washed them and went around the entire inside with a bead of it. They are made in 2 pieces which can eventually come apart. If that happens, you are out $50 for each one, if Ford still has any available, which I doubt. Hot melt works quite well on anything which doesn't get hot. You can warm the parts if you have big pieces to assemble. That will give you time to get them in position before the stuff cools too much. Of course, the parts must be perfectly clean and dry for it to work.
If you need to take stuff apart, just warm the parts with a heat gun until the glue softens.
Nice! Thanks for watching, Bill!
Just a quick note about the steering wheel being loose, you can order a replacement toothed holder for the wheel, the replacement from Husquvarna is made out of metal and solved the steering wheel wobble and were not expensive.
That's great news! Thanks for watching, Paul!
i have a harqvarna to. i like looking at these videos
Thank you for watching, Francis!
The issue is that the nut on the steering wheel does not fully clamp the washer to the steering rod. What I did was buy another smaller but thick washer and place this under the large washer and my steering wheel has been tight for three years now.
That's exactly what I suspected. Thanks for sharing that Frank....I'll get mine fixed up. Thanks for watching!
99 44/100 of your videos are clear ,concise EASY to grasp.My comment refers to Mandrel Covers. I have a YTH22V42 came without Mandrel covers. Question will any other YTH22V 44 thru 48 covers fit. Husqvarna will not confirm. YTH22V42 purchased 2009.thank you
Thanks for watching, Don! It's hard to say since Husqvarna didn't include covers on the YTH22V42 deck spindles. The size of the spindles and pulleys are very similar to the YTH22V46, so you could probably drill a few holes and make those covers work.
I believe the teeth for the steering wheel mount serve the purpose of clocking the wheel for dead straight. After you've used the mower a little while to break in the tie rods and such you could just glue the two pieces together.
Thanks for watching! Yes, the hub has teeth on the OD and a hole on the ID to match the shaft shoulder, so that's what ties the wheel to the shaft. Turns out the play is not between the teeth in the hub and the grooves in the wheel, but more between the hub hole and the steering shaft. I still haven't fixed it though....hahaha!
Thanks Dennis, I have a new Husqvarna ride on and the steering wheel is not straight, so I am going to have a go at removing the steering wheel now, cheers
Thanks for watching, Andrew! Yes, should just be a matter of removing and repositioning on that star-hub to get it straight.
@@dwcoffey Thanks Dennis, I will look at it today, keep making the vids as they are really helpful, cheers
mines a bit sloppy too,i just did the front wheel bushing to actual bearings today,added some washers to take up excess slop, on the spindles, led headlight bulbs,....next the steering wheel,by the way donnyboy on you tube did a choke adjustment on this intek,and made mine start way easier,the cable just has a simple clamp by the carb t25 torx, if it slips it wont choke fully, and theres excessive play in the link that closes the choke plates, just loosen the t25,pull the cable by hand with the throttle in full choke,and retighten the t25 torx screw...,no more slop,easy cold starts,
Thanks for watching, Mark. I'll check it out. I've been playing with the choke on mine to fix that hard-start problem too, so might do another vid. thanks!
@@dwcoffey there it is,.....donyboy73,choke adjustment
@@dwcoffey, hard starting may very well be rust on the magneto faces as well as the flywheel magnet. Get that off (the rust is a resistor to magnetic fields). Once it is off, the magnetos generate the required field at lower rpm. Also, there are upgrades to the Nikki carburetors used.
You could use PVC tubing or a pipe to co over the shaft to tap the bushing back in. Thanks for tha video.
Great idea! Thanks for watching!
Thanks, Dennis, I will need to get this welded. Thanks for your help as always. Is it important to have that wheel on the mower? Thanks again, my friend.
You can cut without it, but if you have any dips or high places in your yard, without that wheel, the high spots will get scalped. As always, thanks for supporting my channel!
What a fantastic video! Thank you so much!
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for posting that!
Thank you for watching!
Hey sir. I checked my wheel. I'm in Canada and have a metal like gear connected to the steering wheel but same plastic wheel. Same issue, a lot of play. Figured out it's nylon wear on the wheel. I added 1 strip of gorilla tape around the metal hub and all good now.
Nice, thanks for sharing that! Also, Thanks for watching!
thank you for your help..i heated the steering wheel lock nut with my butane creme brûlée burner and it came right off. thanks again
Great idea, Dianna! Thank you for watching!
Great video. Having that exact problem.
Thank you for watching, Tony! I hope you get it fixed with no problems.
My problem is when I turn the steering wheel on my Husky, it cracks like crazy, and the noise seems to be coming from just under the steering wheel. Any idea what could be causing that ? Great video btw. You take care, and thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching, Ray! My first guess would be the cracking is from this steering bushing. I'd suggest to open the hood, look up underneath the dash where the steering shaft comes thru and turn the wheel side to side to see if you can determine where the noise is coming from. If it is between the dash and the steering wheel, the problem will most likely be this bushing.
Been a fan of yours for a long time another great video
Thank you so much Bill! I really appreciate your continued support and encouragement. Your comments are always so kind...thank you!
Thanks so much, you just helped me fix my problem
That's great! Thanks for sharing Mark and thanks for watching!
Dennis, one person ordered a lower shaft bushing which is metal, and flange mounted, drilled 2 holes and mounted it, although it you got better than 200 hours out of the original, it may not be worth the effort.
Hey David, thanks for watching! That is a great idea.....I bet it will never have to be replaced. Snapping this plastic one in is a beast.
Wrap some tape around the gear teeth before pushing steering wheel back on. The play is in that toothed gear in the steering wheel.....thanks for video..
Thanks for watching!
Dennis, just had my steering wheel off today... a thought:
If the wheel teeth or the hub teeth are starting to go, could you use some electrical tape around the teeth of the hub as a shim to reduce the amount of slop in that area?
Thanks for watching, Nicholas! Yes sir, I think that would work fine for wear in the teeth. I suppose if the wear is really bad, a strip cut from rubber tire tube would also work. I have found on mine that the excess play seems to come from a gap between the toothed gear and the back side of the steering wheel. I'm not sure how that gap has developed because there is no sign of wear on the two mating surfaces. So....I haven't tried it yet, but I'm going to try a large fender washer either between the wheel and the gear and/or behind the gear.
Maybe some shrink hose and a heat gun?
thanks buddy, really helped me out
Thank you for watching, Richard!
Awesome I got to do the same thing
I hope it goes well! Thanks for watching, Micheal!
your videos are top notch
Thank you Kenneth! I appreciate you watching!
Wrap that gear on the steering wheel with a piece of aluminum foil or maybe two pieces and that should tighten up when you force it down on it
Great idea! Thanks for watching, Greg!
Dennis.. Next time at Lowe's wiggle the steering wheel on a brand new Husky mower. Same play as mine !
Thanks for watching, Richard! Yea, I noticed that last time I was there too. The bushing took all the slop out of the steering shaft, so that is much nicer. I'm going to figure out a way to tighten up that steering wheel though. Bugs me. I'll post a vid when I figure something out.
@@dwcoffey Thanks Dennis always enjoy your videos.
Dennis, I need your help. How do you replace the guide wheel? It is separated
from the mower. Do you need to weld the wheel on the mower? Thanks for your help.
Thanks for watching! Are you talking about the anti-scalp wheel on the side of the mower deck? If the bracket is intact and the wheel has just come off, there's usually a bolt with a could of washers that hold the wheel on. If the bracket has come off the deck, you'll probably need to wled the bracket back on.
Love all of your videos! Have you ever done one on the mower deck clutch assembly?
Thanks for watching, David! No sir, I have not.
I’ll do this fix, ours has this play. I might use some SteelStik epoxy on the worn area, with a small piece of tape to keep it from sticking to the steel column.
Btw, what’s the cost of this new bushing?
Sounds like a great idea, James! I paid about $6.50 US for the bushing I bought. Thanks for watching!
Box spanner tapped by a hammer is best for snapping it into position
Great idea! Thanks for watching!
Well done. Thanks
Thanks for watching, Paul!
Very nice . Thanks . I'll have to look at mine . I have the same problem . I have a 54 inch cut . Not sure if it's the same . Thanks
Thanks for watching, Nick! I hope it helps.....this repair took all the slop out of my steering shaft.
Thank you sir. appreciate the help
Thank you for watching!
Thanks brother, problem solved!!
I'm glad it helped! Thanks for watching, Brett!
No one has a video removing the bushing on a Craftsman DLS 3500. The column has two parts and the bushing can't slide out past the top part. I think it's screwed on, but why a steering column would have a screwed on extension is beyond me.
That is odd, I don't understand the reason for that either. Thanks for watching!
Thanks Dennis, my poulan tractor only has about 30 hours on it, but would you recommend greasing that steering wheel hub as part of the lubrication schedule, or is it a throwaway part that just needs to be replaced?
Thanks for watching, Nicholas! I don't see any need to grease the hub in the center of the steering wheel. It doesn't move on another part, so I don't think lubing it will help anything. The bushing itself is more of a friction fit, so probably not worth lubing it either, but a littler white lithium grease or something light, would hurt anything.
@@dwcoffey loving these videos you're coming out with, by the time I get to your level of hours on my tractor ill have a whole library ready for my repair stuff!
Put a smaller washer under the big washer
That should do it! Thanks for watching, Ron!
Didn't help me much but I have 1 much older. Metal gear under steering wheel....mine has a pin rhat keeps shaft from dropping too low . Easy to put back in with steering wheel off wiggle shaft slides right in rotate until pin locks unto shaft
Thanks for watching, Kevin!
Good information Dennis. Does the teeth in the steering wheel itself get worn out? Thanks
Thanks for watching, John! I haven't seen them totally wear out, but it sure seems they get a little sloppy over time. I don't know if replacing the toothed hub would help take out some of the play.
Thanks! I’ll be tackling this in the near future. Did you put any grease on the inside of the bushing before you slid it on?
Thanks for watching, Terry! I didn't, but I do occasionally put a little white lithium grease where the steering shaft goes thru the bushing.
I would not use grease in a dirty environment like that as it will attract dirt and grit and prematurely wear out the bushing.
Hi Dennis, I just started this project thinking it would be easy after watching your video. Turns out my Husqvarna YTH18K46 has a metal-like steering wheel adapter. I cannot get that adapter off the shaft. I tried WD-40 to perhaps loosen it up since it is about 8 years old and tried just prying it with a little force, even pulling on it. Nothing works to get that adapter off. The adapter has little teeth of its own on the inside diameter. Yours was quite different having just to pull it off.
Thanks for watching, Perry. Interesting. The diagrams I have for the YTH18K46 show a similar adapter to mine, with two flats on the ID that match the end of the steering shaft. I've never seen one of these with splines on the ID. You should be able to take a dead blow hammer, or a soft faced hammer and tap on the bottom of the adapter to get it off the shaft.
Thank you. I'll try that.
@@dwcoffey
Any videos on how to replace a broken steering shaft on the model mower
I'm sorry, not yet. I haven't had to tackle that yet. Thank you for watching!
I would wrap electricians tape around the steering wheel hub to take up some of the play.
Thanks for watching, Brian! I've thought of that, and think that may be a good solution too. Before I do that, I'm going to play with putting a fender washer under the large OEM washer....I think the culprit is the gap between the star-hub and the back of the steering wheel.....I'll keep y'all posted!
Yeah - looks like the plastic hub is loose around the shaft a bit as well. Just upgrade to a carbon fiber racing wheel to drop some weight ;-) jk
@Michael Berman - LOL! I could pick up a little bit of speed that way!
@@dwcoffey I just purchased the same tractor.... got a get deal ($1,424!!l at Lowe's (display model ... but in absolutely perfect condiction... has a July manufacturer date on the battery.... so it wasn't a display for very long!..... and damn it's quick! It's like blasting around on a carnival ride.... after I checked it all over and gassed her up I cut the lawn in record time..... at HALF throttle! Immediately came in the house and ordered the front bumper..... because this bad boy is FAST! Might need to add a seat belt and airbags.
HI: ANY IDEA HOW TO CHANGE OUT THE STARTER SOLENOID. i HAVE THE SAME MACHINE (LOVE IT) AND FROM WHAT i SEE, YOU NEED TO REMOVE THE RIGHT REAR WHEEL TO GET TO THE SCREW THAT HOLD THE SOLENOID IN PLACE. RIGHT OR WRONG? THANKS. DR. Z.
Thanks for watching, Louis! I'm sorry for the delay, I somehow overlooked this comment. Mine is under the cowling at the steering wheel, so I'm guessing about yours. It may be that you can lift the battery out and remove the battery box from under the seat and then get to the screw holding the solenoid in place.
Hi Dennis do you have a video on replacing the front most drive belt pulley near the steering gear? Its giving me a fit lining everything up and the bolt is spinning with the nut. Thanks!
Hey Andy, I'm sorry, but I haven't replaced that one. Is it the pulley on the bottom of the engine that's the problem?
@@dwcoffey its the idler pulley but it bolts to the frame under the steering shaft area. The bolt head up top is recessed and hard to reach. I got it finally! Thanks for replying.
Would this cause a "clicking noise" when turning only one direction? I have the same model mower at about 150 hours of use....and its making a clicking noise whenever I turn turn right....
Thanks for watching, Brett! Quite possibly. Could also be the steering quadrant gear underneath....apply a little white grease to it and the clicking may be resolved.
Can we see this on a cub cadet tractor?
Thanks for watching, Neil! I'm sorry, I don't have access to a Cub Cadet.
Think I could put a quick release wheel bc I have a 09 with no mowing deck and it’s slammed with a CRF450R engine on it
Sweet! Yard is cut in 4.7 minutes.
Woah there. Just a heads up. My parts list shows the same PN for my WHITE colored bushing. And that same number is MOLDED IN THE SLOPPY WHITE BUSHING. BUTTT! If you order that number today you will get a BLACK BUSHING that has a center hole TOO LARGE FOR THE SHAFT!!! To get the CORRECT fitting bushing to replace your WHITE colored bushing you need to order pn ENDING IN 228 AND NOT 227! The HUSQVARNA parts center knows nothing about this and will only direct you to order the 227 number. It was very frustrating for me but Amazon does list the white part ending in 228 if that is the one you require.. I hope this helps?
Good to know! Thanks for watching, John!
My steering wheel was like that new, ts348xd
Thanks for watching, Perry! Yes, its a fairly poor design.
Hi Dennis, thank you for this video. Regarding the plate at the top of the steering wheel. Would it help tighten the steering wheel if another washer was added?
Thanks for watching, Jim! I think it will, and that's what I plan to try. Best I can tell, the steering wheel is loose because that existing washer isn't bearing on the top surface of the wheel, so its just acting as a keeper and allowing the excess play. I think another washer will take up the slack and tighten the wheel.
Do you know how to jump the clutch/brake pedal so it will start without being depressed. My switch is going bad and dang if i want to spend the $ on this. My steering is loose and worse of all lf wheel had no inner steel bushing, wheel wobbled bad. Pulled it apart, never greased nor r side. Like the tractor but they must use $5 an hour idiots to assemble.
Hey Jackson, If I set the parking brake on mine, it will start without being in the seat or depressing the brake.
Mine has 178 hours, and the warranty just expired. Now of course the wheel wobbles.
Never fails....some things are engineered to only last as long as the warranty plus one day.
The easiest way to change this bushing is to heat it up with a torch for 2-3 seconds Slides right in!!!!!!! That was she said lol
LOL! Thanks for watching!
Good video on how to replace that part, but it looks like it accomplished nothing as the steering wheel appears to still wobble and be loose which is the problem with mine, you make some great videos, but this one does not fix the problem you started with, you also said you would address the wobble with the wheel in another video, I have yet to see that, you kind of end the video skipping over the fact it did not fix the original issue you started with.
Thank you for watching! Replacing this bushing did fix the original problem....the steering _shaft_ was loose. It did not fix the problem of the steering _wheel_ being loose. I have not yet made a video showing how to fix the steering wheel problem.
Use a shop vac, clean out the mouse house
Good idea!