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@wranglerman2523 You have to remove the steering shaft( cotter pin and the Gear on the End, has a allen head screw or screw).Assume your replacing the steering shaft? Or is his the drag link your asking about.

@westabsupplyebay4093 The 2.4 k engine is just a solid engine.I would def replace that starter And the Fuel injection relay.The relay tends to fail after a new starter is installed.It will turn over all day,But not crank( relay is toast). WE currently own a 2018 accord sport 6 spd Manual!

@A.Edwardson The issue is the Pump design internally.Being I own 2 units 1 had the New style pump,2nd had the Older pump design.The New pump as I point out, will not allow the squeeze bottle pump protector to enter the housing.The compressed can has the ability to enter with no problem.Its not the Engine, it's Specifically the pump manufacturer changed something inside the pump.Thats all

@miguelchavez5547 No problem.Its here to help for sure

@jasodom I know it's in really fine bold letters.Back when I initially did the work,I realized that after the fact.But pointing it out for illustration purposes makes it easy for those unaware.

The Small gear will have a Allen or torx bit screw in the Recessed area of the Small gear.Once you remove the shaft you Can flip it over and See it.R

There is no recessed area, no screw either. I used wire brush cause I figured it was filled with dirt. Someone else looked at it and the said the same thing.

ruclips.net/user/shortsCfvRN8WtDTs?si=rPLiLnpNFXnvbCUt

ruclips.net/user/shortsCfvRN8WtDTs?si=rPLiLnpNFXnvbCUt

Here is video of it.

Buy the Aftermarket Upgrade parts.There far better than stock.Being I replaced my front axle( heavier gauge) and spindles,bearings just better.I think husq just used inferior parts,key they fail sooner than say later.

@@Ron1987 Thanks 😊

Did You Reinstall the Cotter pin? That keeps it locked in place as it should be.

@@Ron1987 yes I did.

@@jacoblightfoot5635 let me look over mine.Being it's been a few yrs my husq is a back up,so it sits.

@jacoblightfoot5635 Checked my husq.As long as you have that allen head bolt in the gear to the shaft,then the cotter pin, and the 2 bolts that hold the shaft centered, Umm.Make sure the Gear that rolls 360 is secure.The shaft should not drop down and the nut/ flat washer for the steering wheel are tight.Just let me know,if I have to take another look at mine I will.R

Oh well I just wanted to make a quality vs quality scenario.I do Love my garrison though!

Are you pointing out the big bolt in the middle with the 15/16 nut.Should be counter clock wise on recall( its been 4 yrs) since I posted this.

@Ron1987 yes, thank you.. It wouldn't move either way so I just ordered a breaker bar

@FlashlightsNgear yeah it's kinda a pain to get at.As I pointed out I spent alot time figuring out which tools to use.Plus had the deck out too.

1ST Does your car have the Original starter??.Did it exhibit the ( infamous Slow cranking) over time.I will Assume that if you Answer both as YES, you need to replace the Starter itself! I would and Always Recommend replacing the pgm f1 relay ( Primary Fuel injection relay) at This time as well.Reason is the slow cranking over time Heats up that Relay specifically and it will eventually FAIL even after you install a new reman starter.The slow cut relay for the car not cranking has zero to do with your problem.Same for the ignition relay zero to with it.A SIMPLE way to Verify a worn out starter is the Following.Use a long socket extension or say crow bar, place it on top of the starter solenoid( you can SEE it on top of the starter).Now tap the end your holding with a hammer this should in Most cases cause the internals on the starter to rotate past the Dead spot inside the starter.Then remove tools try cranking the car,IF it cranks starte NEEDS to be replaced asap.You also need the intake manifold gasket kit you will o ly use the DRY side gasket.If you have any further questions just ask!!!! IF you need the Relay part number let me know.Ron

I'm not sure that the 4x4 is different on the bearing just dropping in versus a 4x2.I can check my manuals as I have several and see.Not sure if that 4x is a pressed on bearing but it maybe.I will follow up ,later as not home now.

Ok thank you!

photos.app.goo.gl/swW8Wf72nCeuxdjX8

photos.app.goo.gl/KYgivvHBFgU5BCUm7

Here's 2 diagrams straight out of my chiltons.You have to remove the Locking Hub 1st, But once removed it's Exactly the same ad a 4x2 on the bearings.If the races are not marked or worn you could skip that,but removing them bc of Age is a maybe.Its pretty easy using a small drift or punch work side to side or in a circle.Go Timken on bearings and races from auto zone( should have them).Let me know if you need further help.I would buy the Chilton and or Haynes on the b series truck.Its worth the money.Ron

Don't be hesitant!! I own the govt 2 tone and stainless both 45s.I have owned the govt for 1 year,ss 8 months.I have run the s--t out of both.Both are a Real joy to shoot,very accurate and dislike NO ammo brand I use.I run defender,precision one,winchester 185fmj ,sierra jhp,federal No Cheap crap.I may suggest go to (1911forums) check out the 2k post in (Other 1911s) Titled savage!! I show all my targets good and bad and what I used ammo wise.Id put my savage Up against my edc kimber lw or k 2 tone,sa garrison or ruger lw 45s it will just as much of a performer with great results.I seriously have to hold back each range trip to Leave it at home as I rotate all my pistols.If that's not a Confident aspect from a real owner I do not what a guy st a range shooting in a video would do for me.I honestly take the vids on u tube in consideration but,If the pistol MEETS my criteria cal,weight,style etc I Trust a real review from a Real owner and not a paid or endorsed channel.Granted those videos help but it's Not a deciding factor y/ n for me.Good luck and I know I'm long winded but,it's bc it's a GREAT pustol,I do not care about a long term warranty either,I'd fix it or take to a gunsmith I trust after the warranty expired if needed.

@@Ron1987 thank you I’ll definitely take this into consideration. I plan on going to my gun shop this week to see what kinda of deal I can get on one.

@Mr8up1 I really think it's a good balanced pistol.The 45 recoil isn't bad and I suggest run a few hundred rds of just FMJ no hp/jhp.I use wc and chip Mccormick mags for both of mine.I might suggest winchester 185 fmj as This is a good choice to run the 1st mag or 2 then go 230 .Make sure to Clean and lube Prior to any range use( prevents drama).Any 1911 questions check out www.1911forum.com Excellent site!

I ended up going with the Springfield Armory operator.

@Mr8up1 Well alright.Not every pistol suits everyone.I know 1911 are contagious so,you may revisit the idea.You can never really own too many and I like variety myself.I own sa,kimbers,ruger as well.Enjoy that new pistol! And a great source for info and owners is the ( 1911 forum).Just remember run 1 less rd in those new mags for a bit until broken in.Clean/lube inspect it prior to use.Id run fmj only for at least 2-3 hundred rds,jhp,hp tend to miss feed until its used a few range days.

Got in late.Let me try and take s pic to show and or send to you.Ill try wed.R

@@Ron1987 thanks! I appreciate that

@raysmusic49 have not forgot your pic.Rained all weekend and too much to do after work today.I will attempt tommorrow.

Yeah the stabil brand or briggs/stratton work just fine Everytime!

I have same one. I emptied the soap container with shop vac. I then just started the machine up with the bottle of antifreeze attached and it sucked the bottle dry and then started squirting pink liquid. Only way I could get it to work through. But his way here works as well.

Ok listened.If it has the original starter it's Toast.Also as a result of the really slow cranking its probably going to Require a new pgmi f1 ( or fuel injection relay). As for the codes dismiss that for now. If you do the replace the starter yourself it does require replacing the intake manifold gasket the DRY side at the head.I would Highly recommend a New fuel injector relay at the Same time.If you do not replace the relay,even with a new starter the car will turn over all day,just not run no power to the injectors if the relay Fails as the Typically Do.Any further Help just ask.I do have a fairly current list of auto stores and that relay part # if u need it.Napas the Best in terms of Quality a little higher on cost but worth it.

If you have a sportsman whse they carry it.But I bought mine off guns com reason cost,plus tax,shpg it was Cheaper than the store! It's a Safe online site,ships quick on all my buys and ships to alot of ffl's In areas all over!

Any check engine faults or codes showing?And how many miles are on the car.

Check this First. In the Fuse box inside the car Remove fuse 19 is a 15 Amp fuse.IF it's blown there's the problem.Without making this complicated it is For the fuel pump! Let me know if this plays out and corrects the issue.

@Ron1987 the IG Fuel pump fuse is still good. When i tested the relays, i used the car battery.... That might have been dumb... lol It was the last relay that i had tested.... But i tested everyone the same! Test the ohms, connect 12v, hear the click, test the ohms again. The last one smoked the blue relay and my test wires got hot.... My bypass works fine. Romex 14-2 with flattened ends and wire in a U shape. Car runs totally normal!

@richconrad4554 Being u have bought the wrong relays I looked it up.Napa is the Best quality AR6234 cost $60.99. Auto zone 20315 cost $56.99.The fp relay is a specific part and Highly recommend napas version.

​@Ron1987 that is the problem... i bought a cheap one from amazon with good reviews from other people with the same make/model/year. Then i tried O'Reilly's and that was about $60-$65. Then Advanced auto, same price. None of them worked... So i tried Ebay and matched "7003" and "Made In Japan". None of those worked... But my bypass does work. I feel like there is a different issue? I did not try Napa yet, but that is a 30 min drive now. Napa is my favorite place to shop, though!

@@richconrad4554 could be the connectors in the housing for the actual relay could have melted!

USE the products I showed in the metal can.Stabil version sold at Walmart for under $8.00 or Lowes home improve About the same it's briggs/ stratton. The liquid version in the gasoline pressure washers will Not go into the pump! Use the above product it WORKS every time.

Thanks.I always shoot at 7 yards out.Ammo used is the Defender brand(USA MADE) 230 Ball fmj,Precision One 230 ball fmj,federal target 230 fmj.I do use wilson combat and chip Mccormick mags! Not that the savage mags lack anything.Now on my stainless as that is what it is,it has no rail.The govt 2 tone has a rail.My shooting has improved alot with both of my savages as I have adjusted to them.I typically run a 100 plus rds Every range day with each.On the hollow point I have used the Sierra brand 185 grain as its inexpensive and works perfect in ALL of my 45s.Deciding on which one,IDK I Love both of mine and at some point may buy the 3rd one to complete the line.I realize some were leary of a New model brand pistol,but Savage did a good job and I went for it.No Regrets as I shoot mine in my rotation very frequently. I picked up mine off guns com bc it was available and actually cheaper after tax,shpg,and ffl fee compared to a walk in store.Ive done a period history on both pistols which can be seen on the 1911 forum(all one word) its under the subforum other1911s.I post each range outing results with targets shown.

A very long flat head screw driver.With out removing any of the hvac components.It was not easy.I put clear silicone on the hose hook up and managed to get the hose on.A pain it was.But it did resolve the water no longer draining into the floor board.

@@Ron1987 thank you I managed to get it done with that and some needle nose

What the range has.I know I could take my own.

@@Ron1987 o ok.cause I thought when you test for accuracy you get the small targets

Thanks 4 checking it out.Just felt a real review from the owner of said pistol is as compelling as or more so,than other options here.

YES.But I highly Recommend replacing BOTH drag links at the same time.Reason is if one has failed the other is not far behind breaking being they are the same age.It will save you time and money to order both in the long term.

Alright quick question and then my take.Has your car had a Slower start over time and is The Starter the Original starter.IF you said YES to these here's what to do.Being the Slower cranking wether long or short term it Heats up the pgmi f1 (fuel injection relay).As a result it essentially Burns up the fuel injection relay over time until it FAILS.If this is the original starter Replace it!!!.If you soley replace the fuel injection relay ( not cheap) it will burn up that relay too.So that said your cars symptoms are Your Fuel injection relay is BAD. I show in my videos where it is and if you need the Relay part number I can List the stores and who carries it and cost.Reman starters vary on cost but most have a lifetime warranty. Also the Dry side of the intake manifold gasket has to be replaced when it's removed other wise it will leak or suck air.Just ask if you need anything else.R