Did somewhat the same thing on my Craftsman DYS 4500 I used a bracket off the body of tractor to make a new hole to line it up straight, same idea as you basically so far it's working may not be correct way but gets the job done👍🏽
On my L130, there is a nut on the opposite tie rod, which allows it to be lengthened or shortened as needed to get into alignment, and a lock-nut. It's on the driver's right hand side front tire tie rod. Can't help but want to see that part of this tractor too ...
Hey, thanks for the video. I watch a ton of these repair videos just to see what other people are doing to fix problems that I've encountered. Lifelong learning, if you will. Anyhow, I've been fixing these machines for a few decades now and my approach is a little different. Not saying yours is wrong - in my shop the only things that get modified like that are broken pieces that cannot be replaced or repaired easily. Check tightness of all steering rods and sloppiness of the 4 holes. Then check the wheel bushings (/bearings) and make sure all of those are tight. You should also check the bottom steering gear bushing and make sure it's tight and in good condition. Also jack it up a little and check the raceway that your axle pivots in - on some non-John Deere mowers it's very common to see cracks or bends in the frame in that area and the axle will get front rear diagonal play in it... After all of that -- if you still have a toe-out or toe-in problem you've probably got either a bent front axle (VERY common with these models) or a bent steering arm (also relatively common). I've seen numerous steering arms get bent when someone tries to jack up the mower incorrectly with a floor jack. (Also the main reason I've seen bent/warped main pulleys on the bottom of the engines.) If bent, the axle could be put on a press to straighten, but easier, better, and safer to just get a new one. 1/4" of bend can mess up the rest of the steering system dramatically. Bent steering arms could be unbent or replaced if needed. Or, in the case of this mower, that drivers-side (viewers right, tractor left) steering rod could have been bent just a little more to eliminate the alignment issue. A 5-degree increase in the bend would've brought the length down 1/4" in size and allowed it to fit properly. i hate to see people cut & weld parts. Makes it nearly impossible for the next guy to diagnose a problem quickly if previous modifications aren't made apparent. I would recommend spraying that end with some off-color paint or putting a sticker under the hood with notes so that these mods are more easily found in the future.
What a lot of you are forgetting is, some people can't afford to replace parts. The steer axle should have bushings so you don't have to replace it. Steering spindles should bushings so you don't have to replace. See where I'm going? The majority of alignment issues are due to bent rods. People drive into trees, curbs, etc. and hit one tire. One drag link and one tie rod with adjustable ends. Whoever devised the 2 drag link system should be shot.
There's always the chance that worn front-wheel bushings are the cause of the problem. If the bushings in the wheels are worn out you're not going to be able to do an accurate adjustment. Replace the wheel bushings and, if needed, the steering axles) so you have accurate components to work with. You might save yourself the trouble of dropping the steering sector from under the chassis (I'll explain in the next paragraph). If your wheel bushings were the culprit, the wheels will run more true (with a slight toe-in). You want your front wheels to run with a slight toe-in, not toe-out. Replacing these bushings in the front wheels may be all that's needed. My LA145 John Deere has an adjustable ball joint on the other end of the steering rods which run to the steering sector up under the tractor. It takes some doing to get these ball joints off (have to drop the steering sector down so you can get to the nuts on the backside of the pivot) but once you have those accessible, you can take them off. Do some adjusting by turning the ball joints in or out as needed (after loosening the jam nuts) to align the front wheels. Can probably use a straight edge (long carpenter's ruler, as this guy used) to sight the front wheels with the back wheels. The RUclips site "Taryl Fixes All" has a video dated Sept. 2017 that gives a good view of this steering assembly.
@@2coolhipdude If you have the ability to weld Metal, you could adjust the length of the links and if not - You could make a couple of strong metal plates and drill a hole for where they would bolt to the front bracket and then drill another new hole where they are in alignment. But if the tie rods are old, the Ball Joints tend to let go after a while in them, www.amazon.com/HD-Switch-Steering-Draglink-Replacement/dp/B07RVDKPPT - an aftermarket set of links is $58 and are heavier than the OEM.
@@Thommadura Thank you for your input. But as a lifelong mechanic, I'll just thread one end and install studded rod end bearings for $5ea. Or, cheaper yet, I may just bend the drag link for free. Remember, one day you may be on a fixed income, arthritis, half blind, crippled(Lol) and still need to make things last. It's not even my mower. Doing free labor for the neighbors. My JD is 15 years old(800hrs). I replaced the blades and anti-scalp wheels last year. That's it. Other than routine maintenance, a battery, couple belts, everything is original. The tires even look new. The steer tires on the one I'm fixing were bald. 575hrs. After putting new tires on it, oil change, filters, adj. mags, adj. valves, adj. choke(wouldn't close all the way), I took it for a spin. That's when I noticed it was toed out, a lot. No wonder the tires were bald. Then I engaged the deck. Lol. How could anyone mow when their deck sounds like a jet during takeoff. Off came the deck, one spindle and one idler were rough. Took the spindle apart and one bearing was bad. 2 new bearings $5. Idler, $9. With the deck off, I checked the steering. Ordered a new sector kit. Sector, gear, 2 metal bushings and 2 nylon bushings, $25. That's when I noticed the non-adjustable, 2 drag link set up. After I clean up most of the sloppiness, we'll see how much drag link bending needs to be done. Take care.
@@2coolhipdude I live in central New Jersey and was involved with Raceway Park racers and Nascar Racers from the then Browntown Nascar Track almost all my life. Although it was an additional income, I rebuild transmissions almost all my life. I had 8 Kids, and 18 Foster/guardian Kids and I put all through college. I understand but you must also remember I did not know your circumstance as a mechanic. Yes - I have done many such things in my life. Most of my Kids cars were rebuilt wrecks from the local Yard. The original Links were cast iron so bending them is probably not an option as you know they would likely crack. But most people do not have the equipment to Thread that rod either. Fact is, I just rebuilt the engine in my Neighbors Deere 425 which he seized so I know what you mean. Go in Peace!
did you ever take the tie rod off and bend the angles a little more to shorten the rod? or have you ever taken the wheel off and heated the spindle elbow and moved the axle to align it?
I did it twice (First & last) to bend it back in place and it took me over 1.5 hrs. Way too long. This mod only takes me 5 mins to do. I leave the spindle on the machine and just use a round file.
I bend them with a pipe over the axle and pipe wrench , then weld on a 3.5 inch length piece of angle iron once I have them perfect , if not they will just keep bending and throw yer alignment off constantly , the bumpier the lawn the faster it happens , its not the drag links that bend its the spindles where the tie rod attaches to
How does using a straight edge off the front tires assure correct toe in? Just because the straight edge points to the same point on each rear tire proves only that the front tires are angled the same to the chassis center line but NOT that they are aligned CORRECTLY to the chassis center line!
Aren’t the ends of the steering rods that connect to the spindle? I don’t think John Deere would design the need to drill out the spindles to align the front wheeld
The problem here is one of the spindles is bent. You can straighten them but they bend back easily. You have weld a brace. (more work & $$$.$$) It's easier to do the mod in my video. You don't have to remove the spindle or the wheel to this mod. Just use a round file & file a slot.
OMG. All you had to do is either straighten or bend the tie rods. Or if you wanted to get fancy and use your tools, get a tie rod adjuster and weld it in...
Obviously you've never tried to straighten out these rod.. Good luck. I can do this mod in 10 mins without taking off the spindle . Welding a rod adjuster takes way too long.
Авто/Мото
Did somewhat the same thing on my Craftsman DYS 4500 I used a bracket off the body of tractor to make a new hole to line it up straight, same idea as you basically so far it's working may not be correct way but gets the job done👍🏽
Awesome....
Take the steering rods and bend them (in your case so they are longer). I did this when my E140 was brand new because it had too much toe-in.
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Great video!
Thx. I redid a another video on this.
m.ruclips.net/video/goH-TuO8yCU/видео.html
Omg..
What a freakinh hack mechanic !
This tractor was going to the boneyard. I brought it back to life. lol. Looked like new when I was finished.
I thought the same exact thing.
This is starting from the ass-end of the problem.
Why not just straighten the bent tie rod that caused the problem in the first place?
Joe Vogelberger You need acetylene torches to heat the bar...
@@WeekendHobbyMechanicAs long as it isn't bent 90°- it got bent without a torch, it'll straighten without a torch.
Wonder how much a new one is to fix it properly if bending it back does not work
Just by the adjustable rods
On my L130, there is a nut on the opposite tie rod, which allows it to be lengthened or shortened as needed to get into alignment, and a lock-nut. It's on the driver's right hand side front tire tie rod. Can't help but want to see that part of this tractor too ...
On some ‘L’ series you can do that but the LA, D and E series you can’t.
Hey, thanks for the video. I watch a ton of these repair videos just to see what other people are doing to fix problems that I've encountered. Lifelong learning, if you will.
Anyhow, I've been fixing these machines for a few decades now and my approach is a little different. Not saying yours is wrong - in my shop the only things that get modified like that are broken pieces that cannot be replaced or repaired easily.
Check tightness of all steering rods and sloppiness of the 4 holes. Then check the wheel bushings (/bearings) and make sure all of those are tight. You should also check the bottom steering gear bushing and make sure it's tight and in good condition. Also jack it up a little and check the raceway that your axle pivots in - on some non-John Deere mowers it's very common to see cracks or bends in the frame in that area and the axle will get front rear diagonal play in it... After all of that -- if you still have a toe-out or toe-in problem you've probably got either a bent front axle (VERY common with these models) or a bent steering arm (also relatively common). I've seen numerous steering arms get bent when someone tries to jack up the mower incorrectly with a floor jack. (Also the main reason I've seen bent/warped main pulleys on the bottom of the engines.)
If bent, the axle could be put on a press to straighten, but easier, better, and safer to just get a new one. 1/4" of bend can mess up the rest of the steering system dramatically. Bent steering arms could be unbent or replaced if needed. Or, in the case of this mower, that drivers-side (viewers right, tractor left) steering rod could have been bent just a little more to eliminate the alignment issue. A 5-degree increase in the bend would've brought the length down 1/4" in size and allowed it to fit properly.
i hate to see people cut & weld parts. Makes it nearly impossible for the next guy to diagnose a problem quickly if previous modifications aren't made apparent. I would recommend spraying that end with some off-color paint or putting a sticker under the hood with notes so that these mods are more easily found in the future.
What a lot of you are forgetting is, some people can't afford to replace parts. The steer axle should have bushings so you don't have to replace it. Steering spindles should bushings so you don't have to replace. See where I'm going? The majority of alignment issues are due to bent rods. People drive into trees, curbs, etc. and hit one tire. One drag link and one tie rod with adjustable ends. Whoever devised the 2 drag link system should be shot.
There's always the chance that worn front-wheel bushings are the cause of the problem. If the bushings in the wheels are worn out you're not going to be able to do an accurate adjustment. Replace the wheel bushings and, if needed, the steering axles) so you have accurate components to work with. You might save yourself the trouble of dropping the steering sector from under the chassis (I'll explain in the next paragraph). If your wheel bushings were the culprit, the wheels will run more true (with a slight toe-in). You want your front wheels to run with a slight toe-in, not toe-out. Replacing these bushings in the front wheels may be all that's needed.
My LA145 John Deere has an adjustable ball joint on the other end of the steering rods which run to the steering sector up under the tractor. It takes some doing to get these ball joints off (have to drop the steering sector down so you can get to the nuts on the backside of the pivot) but once you have those accessible, you can take them off. Do some adjusting by turning the ball joints in or out as needed (after loosening the jam nuts) to align the front wheels. Can probably use a straight edge (long carpenter's ruler, as this guy used) to sight the front wheels with the back wheels.
The RUclips site "Taryl Fixes All" has a video dated Sept. 2017 that gives a good view of this steering assembly.
Rob J I took it all apart for the video. (Only takes me 10-15mins to do this mod).
this guy is a hack! I wouldnt let him touch my customer's equipment thats for sure. Wholy Fack!
FYI - Husqvarna - who makes the Deere 100 has made a kit of the two drag links with ADJUSTABLE ends at the front.
Husqvarna 587284101 Drag Link Kit
$82. I'll find a cheaper way.
@@2coolhipdude If you have the ability to weld Metal, you could adjust the length of the links and if not - You could make a couple of strong metal plates and drill a hole for where they would bolt to the front bracket and then drill another new hole where they are in alignment. But if the tie rods are old, the Ball Joints tend to let go after a while in them,
www.amazon.com/HD-Switch-Steering-Draglink-Replacement/dp/B07RVDKPPT - an aftermarket set of links is $58 and are heavier than the OEM.
@@Thommadura Thank you for your input. But as a lifelong mechanic, I'll just thread one end and install studded rod end bearings for $5ea. Or, cheaper yet, I may just bend the drag link for free. Remember, one day you may be on a fixed income, arthritis, half blind, crippled(Lol) and still need to make things last. It's not even my mower. Doing free labor for the neighbors. My JD is 15 years old(800hrs). I replaced the blades and anti-scalp wheels last year. That's it. Other than routine maintenance, a battery, couple belts, everything is original. The tires even look new. The steer tires on the one I'm fixing were bald. 575hrs. After putting new tires on it, oil change, filters, adj. mags, adj. valves, adj. choke(wouldn't close all the way), I took it for a spin. That's when I noticed it was toed out, a lot. No wonder the tires were bald. Then I engaged the deck. Lol. How could anyone mow when their deck sounds like a jet during takeoff. Off came the deck, one spindle and one idler were rough. Took the spindle apart and one bearing was bad. 2 new bearings $5. Idler, $9. With the deck off, I checked the steering. Ordered a new sector kit. Sector, gear, 2 metal bushings and 2 nylon bushings, $25. That's when I noticed the non-adjustable, 2 drag link set up. After I clean up most of the sloppiness, we'll see how much drag link bending needs to be done. Take care.
@@2coolhipdude I live in central New Jersey and was involved with Raceway Park racers and Nascar Racers from the then Browntown Nascar Track almost all my life. Although it was an additional income, I rebuild transmissions almost all my life. I had 8 Kids, and 18 Foster/guardian Kids and I put all through college. I understand but you must also remember I did not know your circumstance as a mechanic. Yes - I have done many such things in my life. Most of my Kids cars were rebuilt wrecks from the local Yard.
The original Links were cast iron so bending them is probably not an option as you know they would likely crack. But most people do not have the equipment to Thread that rod either. Fact is, I just rebuilt the engine in my Neighbors Deere 425 which he seized so I know what you mean. Go in Peace!
What do you call this type of steering arrangement with no tie rod between the wheels?
I call it a "bad design"...
Geez. I sure don’t wanna strip the whole tractor to do a wheel alignment. Lol.
I hope you don’t. Lol. I was fixing the tractor to sell.
I just bent the tie rod to reduce the toe out. You have to put it in a vice and heat it up a bit to bend it.
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did you ever take the tie rod off and bend the angles a little more to shorten the rod? or have you ever taken the wheel off and heated the spindle elbow and moved the axle to align it?
I did it twice (First & last) to bend it back in place and it took me over 1.5 hrs. Way too long. This mod only takes me 5 mins to do. I leave the spindle on the machine and just use a round file.
Thanks
👍
I bend them with a pipe over the axle and pipe wrench , then weld on a 3.5 inch length piece of angle iron once I have them perfect , if not they will just keep bending and throw yer alignment off constantly , the bumpier the lawn the faster it happens , its not the drag links that bend its the spindles where the tie rod attaches to
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They make adjustable drag link / arms for them . $20
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You need to replace the wheel bushings and maybe the front spindles.
Wheel bushings were good. Two spindle cost $60us plus 1 hour of labour to change them.
The cost of drilling one hole is Free. I'll take "Free" anyday.
How does using a straight edge off the front tires assure correct toe in? Just because the straight edge points to the same point on each rear tire proves only that the front tires are angled the same to the chassis center line but NOT that they are aligned CORRECTLY to the chassis center line!
As long as the final results are better then what you started with.
@@WeekendHobbyMechanic Just because the results are different doesn't mean they are either better or correct!!
It's a lot easier to bend the spindle arm bracket and then fabricate a brace and welded on if you have a welder
Yup. I have a video on that too.
Black spray paint right next to white car! The overspray man😢
Buy some hyme joints and thread the tie rod .
If this was my personal mower I would buy some. I sold the mower locally.
Update: It’s still running strong and the steering is still straight.
Hi, we have a John Deere wheel bearing kit for sale on Amazon, can we put it in your video profile please?
Can you give me the link? I’ll look at it.
Should have tried to bend axle arm down before drilling and destroying it altogether, but hey it’s fixed...?
Joey Alphabet Can’t bend them without heat.
Aren’t the ends of the steering rods that connect to the spindle? I don’t think John Deere would design the need to drill out the spindles to align the front wheeld
The problem here is one of the spindles is bent. You can straighten them but they bend back easily. You have weld a brace. (more work & $$$.$$) It's easier to do the mod in my video. You don't have to remove the spindle or the wheel to this mod. Just use a round file & file a slot.
Is this the only way to fix the problem?
No, but it's the cheapest way...
Since you have a welder, couldn't you have cut the rod in the middle the quarter inch and reweld?
That would work too.
Daaaaaa
Why wouldn’t they design the rod two adjust the length ? Doesn’t seem right.
They do sell them…. $$$.$$
OMG. All you had to do is either straighten or bend the tie rods. Or if you wanted to get fancy and use your tools, get a tie rod adjuster and weld it in...
Obviously you've never tried to straighten out these rod.. Good luck. I can do this mod in 10 mins without taking off the spindle . Welding a rod adjuster takes way too long.
What a maintenance oversight by JD. this is ridiculous..,
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That was comical.
😂
If u gonna sensor my comments then y do u have people comment , y dont u jus write them all urself..
I don’t sensor any comments. Some comments are taken out by RUclips.
Even I can’t see them.
are you serious?........John Deere didn't design adjustment?....... unprofessional!
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No good
Butcher!
I was restoring the tractor.............. 32hrs of labour and then I sold it...
4:05 - Dear god, dude, STOP putting your left hand so close to a grinding tool ! ! ! It's totally in the line of fire, should your tool slip.
Hacker.
Lol
Never use an open end wrench to break a nut or bolt free.