Nice effort on video, on the whole a good job but I took some notes: The stainless steel tubes are not for coolant water -it is just the transfer between pressure stages. The delivered water pump is not the best but still ok, it will last much longer than compressor, however: 1:st keep bucket water level at same height as compressor water cooling jacket, 2:nd keep tubes short as possible. Make several ice bags, make 'em flat for maximized surface area. For faster response on temperature swings on compressor head add some thermal transfer compound to temp probe. Oil levels should always be at top of- or just above red dot! Never below mid point! I really like your filtration setup, really nice!
Awesome feedback Paxmax - many thanks for sharing your generous tips! And really makes sense to add thermal transfer compound to temperature probe for better conductivity. I was under the impression the two concentric horizontal tubes circulated water (not to transfer pressure), especially since some cheaper YH models do not even have the 2 tubes I discuss at around 11:30 on Part 2). On a YH parts order page, the tubes are called Coolant Tubes. Cheers, Michael
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos I think the primary reason for the "tubeless" compressors being cheaper is that they seem to lack the auto-stop feature and several does not even come with a cotton filter. Some models are so simplified they just have the pressure guage on the top of second stage instead of having a alu block distributor on the side. I have seen some models with a "golden" water jacket, not sure yet what they are about. The model I happen to have is probably a Yong Heng clone called "First Strike", tubeless, no auto-shut off, no filter -but it has a separate stack with pressure guage on the left side (when seen from oil view port direction). Instead of having the (to me prefered) run-around first-to-second stage tube it has a much thicker water jacket. They have drilled a hole through the water jacket to carry air to second stage. This increases- machine time and somewhat on material cost but saves on complexity, assembly time, number of parts (which also costs to have in inventory, cut, bend, finish, and may in the end leak). Having a drilled transfer has possibly another benefit -the bore is water cooled. I say possibly because the air spends so short time there (at mid pressure the flow are relatively high), the bore is short, not much surface area so I kind of doubt it has an measureable effect. -A quirk the First Strike (and possibly others?) it has a tiny bleed port that constantly squirts condensed water and oil from the 4500 psi distributor block- Maybe this is how they get away with no filter? EDIT: Correction, it was the burst disc assembly leaking, no fancy autobleed. First time I fired it up indoors; filled a 250ccm bottle(15cui?) -instant regret; 1. The stink, 2. The mess on floor, 3, The slipperyness of oil vapor on floor in a 1 foot radius. Yeah I think that the recommended oil (HLP) VG-46 is probably not the most suitable for this task. I feel that this bleed port while being "smart" if it manages to keep oil and water away from system is much too suceptible to gunk and clog ups.
67% humidity is not high. As for the Yong heng air pump ...very good & really fills the airguns I have in a hurry. I bought mine in December 2016 and now is Nov. 29, 2021 ...I have the 220v and still works great.I did use it a lot for filling Tanks but since I mostly shoot here in my back yard I just fill directly in the gun. 2 minutes or less... ready to shoot again. Real value and real high volume air delivery.
really appreciate you took the time to do this video. I've been looking for a compressor here in England for a while and have been cautious of the Chinese models (Most others being really expensive) however you have given me the confidence to get one and set it up to get reliability etc. Thanks again.
My pleasure Craig - ditto here, I initially felt the same way but other RUclipsrs and websites helped my confidence, provided we are aware of the YH strengths and limitations. Good luck, Michael
Nice question and one I didn't realize that on some YH's there might be loose, sloppy movements on the bleed screws. Mine certainly is snug when I moderately tighten them. Of course when you loosen them a quarter of a turn or more, indeed they do wobble a bit but that is by design. The brass female fitting is designed to release air as the valves are opened and are cut at a slight angle (like a funnel) so the air will easily be released without having to completely remove the screw. I suppose if you wanted you could replace the with a more professional screw valve if that suits you. Thanks for bringing this up for others who may have ideas to improve this concern of yours.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good to hear, I was worried I might be putting too much torque on them to seal. I've heard people putting teflon tape on the bleed screws. mine work good....I'll keep them as is. Thanks man
I bought the "simple version" and it works great. Notice how on the simple version that the water lines will not be resting right on top of the very hot air tubing coming out of the compressor. It's also best to start up the compressor with the bleeder valve open until the unit gets going so as not to strain it. Same thing when you shut if off. I also bleed it off mid-operation for a second or two to mitigate water build-up. The guy at the 5 minute mark isn't using the oil breather and still has the original plug installed. BTW, Yong Heng now recommends synthetic compressor oil, not the 46.
Thanks Jack - agreed, releasing pressure using the bleeder value can certainly help the longevity of our YH. I'll double-check your comment about the missing oil breather - initially I did try a higher quality breather but it choked the YH so I thought I reverted the configuration to the "factory stock" setup.
Great video! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your tips and experiences with the Yong Heng compressor! I found it very useful! Hope yours is still going strong! God bless!
Run a dye colour in the water so you can see if the water is pumping through the tubes. If the pump fails it is much easier to see coloured water than with clear water.
Not sure why your secondary filter limited your air, I have one and it works fine. I also bought a bigger pump for the water, but I use coolant fluid for a TIG welding torch.
Geez, I wish I had kept all the receipts but since I, too had to do several searches from a variety of sources (Alibaba and ebay for some, bigger companies for a several, and independents on Amazon for others), sorry but I'm afraid "the trail has gotten cold." If you have one specific item, let me know and I'll try to search my email folders. Good luck!
@@FlexDRG looks like a coalescent filter to me, and the taller yellower one is a tuxing molecular sieve filter. i wonder if you honestly need TWO of them?
I would like to add a one-way valve to my Yong Heng setup. I need a foster fitting on either end as the Yong Heng and my Scott Pack both have quick releases. I noted your one-way valve and need to know where I can purchase the needed items. Very informative video by the way.
Sorry I don’t have any info on your desired fitting and we often seem to require a few tries to get it right. Good luck and happy hunting trails. Michael
As long as the output hose is also submerged, it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. The royal purple does a pretty good job, unless you set up in your house like I did. Then you find out it has a smell too. The diester(scuba compressor oil) doesn't have any smell to it. It also doesn't carbon up the second stage piston as much. The hydraulic oil is not designed for this application, I have no idea why Yong Heng recommended it.
Excellent points about the oil - many thanks. Regarding the height of the cooling bucket, as long as the pump can push the weight of the water "upstream" (uphill), agreed in that circumstance it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. Yet with a low CFM pump pushing water upwards, gravity has a direct correlation to the height. A "quick and dirty" way to determine the affect with your existing gear is to start the pump when connected to the water source down on the ground. On the pump output tubing that is not connected to the YH, try raising the tube from ground level to 1, 2, and 3 feet - for a small pump you'll be surprised how gravity has a significant affect on the flow. Obviously, we want to have a much flow as possible to move hot water away from the compression head. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.
I used mine to top up a 7 litre dive bottle from 200 bar to 300 bar and it was getting way too hot recirculating the water. I ran the water to waste whilst topping up with cold water and it ran like dream. Twenty one minutes to top up which is the travelling time to my dive shop. Then I have hang around for at least an hour or go back for it much later the. hand over £6 and then drive home. £165 for the compressor was a steal!
Thanks for sharing your experience, Steven. Perhaps because my environment was cool and not with warm ambient summertime temperatures, my water never got very warm at all. But I definitely agree with you that to find a way to ensure that even the paltry amount of cool water that has a small, restricted flow through the compressor head, it's a great idea to supplement the incoming water with a cool supply! Having an cold air conditioner duct funnel air to the head would be great, too. Good luck and thanks again for sharing!
Would it not be better to run your water at ambient temperature rather than cooled with ice? I am just thinking that it must be generating condensation if it is humid air running into a warm machine.
Good point - in some situations (highly humid air) condensation might be a factor, at least in theory. And practically speaking, whether the input water is ambient temperature or icy cold, it won't make a huge difference of the head temperature in most conditions.
We are compressing ambient air to 4500psi. That is 310 times atmospheric pressure. A great deal of condensation will occur either way, since the extreme pressure raises the dew to very, very high. Also the compressor head does not stay cold for very long at all. Using ambient temperature water will not significantly reduce the amount water produced.
Perhaps you have excessive moisture/humidity in the air and maybe the inline YongHeng "cigarette" filter just isn't quite enough to do the job (which is why I went overboard and added two extra filters. If nothing else, be sure to change your cigarette filter often or at least squeeze out all the water between uses.
It matters which hose you use for the in and out. The way it works, even in a chemistry lab using water cooled condensers, is the input enters at the bottom forcing any air to the top and out to the output line. If reversed with water entering into the top, you would have air trapped at the top and not able to escape out the bottom. If this happens you would have air at the top of the cylinder and not get the water cooling effect you're looking for and possibly enable overheating of the cylinder.
Hope all is well. It seems I can’t find much help troubleshooting my Yong heng. It had served me well for 2 years , but unfortunately it had failed me today. I have no idea where to start or what to replace. Both air chambers are holding pressure, but it just won’t go past 1500psi ( I usually fill my 100cu 4500 guppy tank , all the way to 4500. Never had a problem until today ) I do notice of a crank close the release valve (with a bit of force from a wrench) on the second chamber it will climb to 2000psi but if I hang tighten it will fall back to 1500psi and just float there running. I don’t know what to do. I can’t fill my tank anymore. Any help would be appreciated. I’m prepared to take apart, but I have no idea what to replace or look for , like I said.
Assuming you've already used a soapy spray bottle to check for leaks, I'd consider tearing down the head and ensure the valves working and not corroded. I recall seeing photos of some nasty looking valves. The two-stage piston and associated rings would also be worth a close examination. ruclips.net/video/YjsBcKSVeGk/видео.html
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos yes thank you for your attention. Looks like I’m going to have to tear it down. I can’t imagine how much gunked up it can be. I really only run the unit for about 12 minutes at a time. But I have used it quite a bit ...haha. Enough so that I’ve had to replace the 1st stage line due to rust. Obviously from the water and oil accumulation over the 2 year span. But other than that it has been fine. I referenced your video earlier on and have 3 stages now to clean the air. It’s been awesome , aside from this recent issue. I’m definitely going the strip it down to access that second stage pistol head. And see what we get. It does look clean from what I can tell, looking at the white acrylic “oring spacer “ in front of the bleed valve screw. I don’t see any gunk build up. Im definitely going to have to strip this down to check those piston orings. I should use Silicone grease on any orings I come across, correct ?? Thanks again
@@radman731 Go get 'em and kudos to you - you've definitely got your money's worth from your YH. I remember when I was originally investigating the air input and tried using an input filter to help mitigate against the dust issues you encountered. NOPE - when I started it up I couldn't get more than 1500 PSI. Stumped something was amiss and hopeful I didn't have a defective unit or be something wrong), I took off the filter and the compressor immediately started heading up to 2,000 and after a reasonable period over 4,000 PSI - whew! At any rate, that's when I decided not to fool around with input filters that can starve the YT from adequate input air. So my only advise is whenever possible, find a clean area to operate the compressor. Happy Trails!
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos thanks for the tip. I most definitely will remove the air input valve and see what I can find, before taking it apart. Hopefully, that will be the source of the problem and start building up pressure, without a tear down.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good morning from NYC. Figured I’d give you an update. I had took it apart. I cleaned and relubed the piston stem. It was a bit gunked up. Cleaned out the fittings , I came across, as best as I could. The first stage chamber (cyclone chamber ) was pretty rusty and wet, I guess there isn’t much you can do about that. Some fittings had more rust than others. It was still pretty wet inside , as well. There were rust fragments inside also. The 1st stage was pretty corroded out of all the stages of the unit. Not major but it was in its way. I guess there really is no way around that. Water and oil are going to go through there. But other than that overall everything seemed ok. Anyways as I was putting it all back together, I stripped one of the major fittings on the second stage chamber. My very last fitting 🤦🏼♂️. I just took parts I thought would be useful and threw the whole machine out. It’s really a good product. It’s last me 2 years for $300 dollars. I think it was worth it. There is no way of avoiding the rust build up on fitting. I guess after some time you are going to want to change out the fittings over time and are eventually going to have to do a full rebuild. , I don’t really see any of those fittings and such on sale besides o rings and such. But yeah I’m going to be using my pump for a while. If I order another I’ll get a warranty, I think thats a definite must. It eventually is going to rust up on you. Which makes me wonder about these expensive units out there. I really don’t think there is anyway around. Your going to get rust build up and need to rebuild something at some point. Whether you pay $300 or $2,000. I dunno that’s my opinion. Take care everyone.
Does anyone know where to get replacement parts for the compressor? My oil breather cracked and the blow plug needs replacing. I bough the unit on line but can’t find parts.
Good question, yet having researched this 2 years ago... hmm now, what was the reason I didn't go with the obvious answer! (few minutes later...) Aha, I think I have it and it had something to do with corrosion since antifreeze: 1. Is designed to keep fluids from freezing, not overheating 2. Does not have distillation properties Yes, at first sounds weird since antifreeze also helps keep things cool for a car engine (literally and figuratively). So I searched the internet and some of these posts agree with my somewhat vague recollection: www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-and-antifreeze-coolant/ That said, some claim antifreeze works fine, so unless you anticipate heavy and frequent use, use what works best for you. Happy trails, Michael
Will.. I have doubts that the compressor that failed was a copy not the original Young Heng. The copy compressor tends to fail very quickly. The original YH does not have quick release water nipples,it comes with brass hose nipples. The cylinder is shiny steel not black or any other color. Thanks for the video
Depending on your configuration (valves, etc) it might be possible yet it would be bit tricky and perhaps risky that your timing is accurate when you shut off the value and turn off the compressor.
LR44 1.5 volt alkaline should be easy to buy, although you could also use L1154 or AG13 (and maybe 357 if you are in a pinch but it has a different chemistry).
The better (hardcore) version has the water “cyclone” and a second cooling tube to provide better cooling than the simple version. So the simple version will get hot quicker, which means more shutdowns on bigger tanks and more maintenance.
You know what I found works well is a higher gpm pump from harbor freight And a liquid computer radiator with two fans $14 each on Amazon and Mobil 827 synthetic compressor oil (eBay) keeps the unit very cool and keeps running no ice needed
Wow - sounds almost too good to be true! I've found that the YH flow is limited by the small circumference of the tube and internal assembly. How may gallons per minute is your pump size and does it really pass that much through the head? So if I understand that you are running the Mobil 827 oil through your YH head, how much oil is held in the reservoir? Love to hear more...
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Looks like they don’t carry the one I have anymore but they do have one that says it’s rated at 158 gph I had to heat the plastic hose I had a force it over the fitting, but pumps great. It’s only $11 give it a try The radiator same thing.I recommend getting two 120mm AC fans so you can plug them in instead of 12v dc type and wiring in a power supply. You can get higher cfm that way too
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos I think next thing on the list is to try a radiator cooler additive like “redline water wetter” which lowers the surface tension of the water and should make the radiator work even more efficient. I have used it in vehicles and it works very well especially if you live in a hot state
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Sorry missed the other part of question I don’t know the exact amount of oil that is in there, but there’s a guy on ebay that sells 12 oz for $20 that is plenty. This is by far the best thing for the compressor you will notice right off the bat, it will be quieter and smoother. The flow rate on that pump seems to match the radiator too, very happy with that purchase too If need help with any of the purchases let me know I’ll send you the links
@@richardyabuki5357 Awesome, I'm scoot over to ebay right now once you provide the link for the proper liquid computer radiator - I think my bigger pump should be adequate and the synthetic oil should be easy to find. Cheers, Michael
Generally, you’d be fine just using an organic sieve... assuming you do everything else correctly as covered in the videos. I’d say the coalescing filter is a nice extra but probably not required in most situations. But if you’re in a humid environment, work the YH hard (long run cycles), don’t regularly change the YH filter, have poor practices (bad setup, forget to do regular bleeds, etc), it would probably be wise to have the coalescing filter, too. Good luck 👍
I recommend: Royal Purple 04513 Synfilm Recip 100 High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant. Right now 1 Gallon is $67 on Amazon, better than $80 on ebay, or $101 at Walmart. This will last you a looooong time :) www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Compressor/dp/B000BRTCIS
The slower water goes the more heat it absorbs from whatever it's flowing through...of course there's a happy medium. Too slow and it's not getting the heat out fast enough, too fast and it's not absorbing enough geelat before exiting.
I appreciate your point and I certainly don't profess to be an expert in thermodynamics! That said, whether the water flows somewhat faster or slower, the primary determinant is fluid temperature since the *conduction* is essentially a constant. You might try cooling the external head using a fan or design a better heat sink to dissipate the air if you are operating in a warm climate.
On eBay search for: Stainless Steel Bleed Valve 1/4" M NPT x 1/4" F NPT Bleed Valve (A-B1115). The item price is $29.70, sold by supplier 4rfun. You will also want to purchase adapters to get back to 1/8" HPA. Here's the link to the one-way check valve and adapters including the 1/8" NPT female and 1/8" Foster male connectors (with additional ordering links) www.airgunnation.com/topic/check-valve-for-moisture-filter-gold-filter/
@@radman731 Howdy Ranman - at first I was going to give a knee-jerk response of change Royal Purple once every 5 hours. But as I thought more about it, just like your automobile there are many factors that will affect the load, stress, environment, etc. and those factors should and will affect the contaminants in the oil and how fast it will break down. So if it's a hot, humid day, your YH is brand new, you are filling up a huge tank, you don't take engine breaks every 15-20 minutes, you let the head temperature regularly run about 60C, you might even have small leads in your connectors, etc, then you should change your Royal Purple more frequently. I'd say change it once after your first hour of operation to flush the loose metal flakes, then every few hours of operation before running your YH, look at the sight gauge and if it's no longer purple and is getting dark, it's time to change it! Or if have a good nose, take off the black plastic breather and give it a sniff - if it smells stinky, IMMEDIATELY change the oil. Good luck!
California Travel Videos Thank you for your attention and great answers. I'm going to create a little log, to monitor my run time, till I get more comfortable with the unit. I'll change the oil after every hour, that sounds ideal. Would you share how you go about changing and maintaining your molecular seive. Mine should be arriving in another weeks or so. Then I'll give my Yong Heng a true pressure test. I only have a 100 ci 4500 air tank. It's brand new and i don't want to contaminate it.
@@radman731 Sounds like after the first hour and oil change, with a small 100 ci tank you won't need to run your YH more than 5 minutes to get to 4500 PSI. In that case, after the first oil change, try waiting 2 run hours to dump the oil to validate the oil is bright purple without impurities. If so, next time wait 3 hours, etc. and consider eventually going up to 5 hours or 6-12 months between oil changes. Your main maintenance items will be not to let the YH overhead (unlikely with your small tank) and try to avoid sudden shutdowns without cranking open the bleed value as you close the valve to your tank. I've seen enough piston failures that we want to avoid unnecessary stress when the YH is operating under high pressures and may encounter a nasty BACK PRESSURE that the internal YH check valve may not be able to handle. Happy trails...
Yikes - FULL STOP, Houston, we have a problem!!! Something is seriously wrong. Assuming you have good oil lubricating correctly at the right fluid level, don’t have anything damaged internally, don’t have a air blockage in the line (or defective part), installed the air filter correctly, the YH was assembled correctly by the factory, the YH should not rise to 60C in only 1 minute. If you can’t find someone to help you, consider ether returning it or buying another and using this one for parts - the YH is certainly very affordable compared to the compressors that cost $2,000 up to $5,000+. Most everyone has good luck with our YH compressors. But if setting up and running the YH seems to complicated or tedious, it’s probably worth spending more money for a compressor that requires less attention and has much better technical support and manuals. Good luck !
U dont want to go above 50-55c. 60's pushing it ESPECIALLY if ur only at 1 min in.. u can get away with 60 if you almost done but definitely not at the beginning. Ur doing something wrong. I dont think its ur y.h.
Your videos have helped me a great deal. Thanks for posting them and explaining everything so well. I would really appreciate it if you would help me with a couple of questions about the shorter of the two gold filters, the first one that the air passes through. Can the top and/or bottom be unscrewed to gain access to the inside of the unit (like you can on the Tuxing filter)? Also, why is the drain valve positioned so far from the bottom of the vessel? It seems like a pool of water would collect below the drain, and the only way to completely drain the unit would be to tilt it over on it side. Is that correct? Or does the first gold filter drain completely by simply opening the drain valve? Thank you!
It's irrelevant if the water is above or below the pump by the same distance. You would be pumping against the exact same head either way, the only question is whether you do so before or after the pump.
i boiught the same one off Ebay.. Garbage, fighting to get my money back, Now bought new one on amazon.. Works great, came in super great box. well packed. They tried to give me a $45 refund. I got Ebay buyers protection.
Great general advise - thanks for sharing your thoughts. That said, we should conservatively estimate that the Yong Heng will consume 1800 watts, so running 117 volts a/c, that roughly 15 amps. Assuming your extension cable is 25 feet, that required conductor size is 16 gauge copper or a bigger 12 gauge wire conductor if it's an aluminum conductor. And to your point, a Romex solid wire conductor may be 10, 12 or 14 gauge size. Of course, regardless the size of the wire for your extension cord, if the receptacle screws that go to the circuit breaker box are not making a very good/tight electrical/mechanical connection, you the poor connection will not pass 15 amps and might even heat up and cause a fire. That was my concern connecting to the circuit, so I recommend with a heavy current draw device like the Yong Heng, also be careful to ensure the motor doesn't seem to slow down, lights on the circuit start to dim more than 1 second, etc. Good luck and here's a useful link to calculate the wire size if your extension cord is longer than 25 feet: www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx
I have yong Hing Compressor that I received on a pallet that I bid on it does have freight damage but it is brand new it would be good for parts the main frame that holds the valves on each side are cracked the brackets that hold the valves are cracked if anybody is interested in using it for parts it has not been run please contact me for further info. It’s brand new never been run, just freight damage. Also there’s no temperature gauge it was missing
You need to make sure all those fittings and that one way valves your using is/are rated at over 4500 psi, 95% of that stuff available is not rated for high pressure. Royal Purple is the Slick 50 of today, by the way, your paying for advertising and a little purple dye.
Thanks for sharing your tips Rick. Agreed, not only getting the correct fitting but also a sufficiently high PSI is rating very important! Several times the fittings I purchased didn't turn out to be adequate for our application.
No, not at all. Actually, the second stage of the compressor has so much pressure, as you saw it is very hot and is hardly bothered by the very small amount of cold water that goes near the cylinder head.
How true and if you are careful to use your YH for light use, it will definitely last longer. But of course for the heavy users of their gear, it's probably worth spending a bit extra and not have to soon buy a second compressor.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Thanks, I'm seriously considering ordering one tomorrow, the big decision is auto shut off or not. I would consider myself a light user. Thanks again...
@@bucsam1660 Wow, I totally forgot about the auto shutoff option and now that I think about it, initially I forgot the reason I didn't go with the auto shutoff option. Now that I look at it, I recall that it doesn't look all that reliable and I didn't want to risk the compressor not starting up, only to find out the circuit no longer works... after an hour of troubleshooting and then another hour to rewire around the circuit. IMO, we really should be watching the compressor from time to time anyway, rather than leave the area only to find the YH was heading for a catastrophe (overheading, loss of oil, leakage, mechanical noises...)
Hey California, I ordered my Yong Heng yesterday from Amazon. Saw a review where the guy uses Royal Purple Compressor oil instead of Hydraulic. Be safe🤠
Yes, that sounds correct - 15 amps x 117 volts comes close to the maximum 2,000 watt load for a home electrical circuit so don't run anything else on the line when you're running your YH! Enjoy, Michael
Instead of investing all the time you did to make changes, and all the money you spent on after-purchase parts, why didn't you just buy a better compressor in the first place?
Now that's a fair question John and I'm not one to go the cheapo route if a better product is reasonably priced. Yet a "better compressor" can run up to 4-5 times the cost of the YH. And like the others who are viewing this episode, we're okay spending some time and moderate costs to improve the reliability of our gear. And truthfully, even if we just bought two new units and switched in the second if the first broke (and used it for parts), we'd still come out spending less than half the cost of other compressors. Anyway, so far - so good and I wish you well on your decision. As it turned out, since there is an affordable dive shop 4 miles from my home, the best/cheapest answer would be to just have my scuba tank filled up when needed! Happy Trails, Michael
Way to many youtubers use music of all kinds and really do not NEED any whats so ever when teaching some thing, College, high school Never ever uses music to teach any course of study , Shows how stupid the person making video really is.
@@SonofGodly Certainly a truism for us left-brained crowd yet most RUclips viewers love to be entertained - even YT makes available a huge selection of Royalty Free music for Channel Producers. Regardless, I appreciate your feedback and agree too many new producers have distracting music tracks and often detracts from the content.
It bothers me too. Also when in big stores the music is too loud. I can remember k-mart doing this going back to the 70's but the volume wasn't as noticeable.
The only thing I hate is when people make narrated videos and the music is as loud as the speaker. It's very easy to set the music level way down when editing a video.
My bro grandpa has the old good scool, pro job, i love you man!
Well done for starting it correctly, valves open, start, close valves, fill vessel.
Very helpful. Sounds like the Yong Heng is a hobby in itself.
Well, when you put it that way... I agree LOL. (as the saying goes, some assembly required)
buying cheap stuff and bringing it up to par is a hobby in itself
😎 Amen bro
Mine works fine without some of these extras
@@caseG80 agreed, i'm only running a tuxing oil/water separator to fill my SCBAs and it's fine. even use the original pump
Nice effort on video, on the whole a good job but I took some notes:
The stainless steel tubes are not for coolant water -it is just the transfer between pressure stages.
The delivered water pump is not the best but still ok, it will last much longer than compressor, however: 1:st keep bucket water level at same height as compressor water cooling jacket, 2:nd keep tubes short as possible.
Make several ice bags, make 'em flat for maximized surface area.
For faster response on temperature swings on compressor head add some thermal transfer compound to temp probe.
Oil levels should always be at top of- or just above red dot! Never below mid point!
I really like your filtration setup, really nice!
Awesome feedback Paxmax - many thanks for sharing your generous tips! And really makes sense to add thermal transfer compound to temperature probe for better conductivity. I was under the impression the two concentric horizontal tubes circulated water (not to transfer pressure), especially since some cheaper YH models do not even have the 2 tubes I discuss at around 11:30 on Part 2). On a YH parts order page, the tubes are called Coolant Tubes. Cheers, Michael
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos I think the primary reason for the "tubeless" compressors being cheaper is that they seem to lack the auto-stop feature and several does not even come with a cotton filter. Some models are so simplified they just have the pressure guage on the top of second stage instead of having a alu block distributor on the side. I have seen some models with a "golden" water jacket, not sure yet what they are about.
The model I happen to have is probably a Yong Heng clone called "First Strike", tubeless, no auto-shut off, no filter -but it has a separate stack with pressure guage on the left side (when seen from oil view port direction).
Instead of having the (to me prefered) run-around first-to-second stage tube it has a much thicker water jacket. They have drilled a hole through the water jacket to carry air to second stage. This increases- machine time and somewhat on material cost but saves on complexity, assembly time, number of parts (which also costs to have in inventory, cut, bend, finish, and may in the end leak). Having a drilled transfer has possibly another benefit -the bore is water cooled.
I say possibly because the air spends so short time there (at mid pressure the flow are relatively high), the bore is short, not much surface area so I kind of doubt it has an measureable effect.
-A quirk the First Strike (and possibly others?) it has a tiny bleed port that constantly squirts condensed water and oil from the 4500 psi distributor block- Maybe this is how they get away with no filter?
EDIT: Correction, it was the burst disc assembly leaking, no fancy autobleed.
First time I fired it up indoors; filled a 250ccm bottle(15cui?) -instant regret; 1. The stink, 2. The mess on floor, 3, The slipperyness of oil vapor on floor in a 1 foot radius.
Yeah I think that the recommended oil (HLP) VG-46 is probably not the most suitable for this task.
I feel that this bleed port while being "smart" if it manages to keep oil and water away from system is much too suceptible to gunk and clog ups.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos With respect: there is so much bad information in this video that it should be taken down.
67% humidity is not high. As for the Yong heng air pump ...very good & really fills the airguns I have in a hurry. I bought mine in December 2016 and now is Nov. 29, 2021 ...I have the 220v and still works great.I did use it a lot for filling Tanks but since I mostly shoot here in my back yard I just fill directly in the gun. 2 minutes or less... ready to shoot again. Real value and real high volume air delivery.
Sweet Gary - always nice to hear others success stories and it's awesome to get such good value for our money!
really appreciate you took the time to do this video. I've been looking for a compressor here in England for a while and have been cautious of the Chinese models (Most others being really expensive) however you have given me the confidence to get one and set it up to get reliability etc. Thanks again.
My pleasure Craig - ditto here, I initially felt the same way but other RUclipsrs and websites helped my confidence, provided we are aware of the YH strengths and limitations. Good luck, Michael
Great info. is there a way, or even should I... take the slop out of the bleed scews ?
Nice question and one I didn't realize that on some YH's there might be loose, sloppy movements on the bleed screws. Mine certainly is snug when I moderately tighten them. Of course when you loosen them a quarter of a turn or more, indeed they do wobble a bit but that is by design. The brass female fitting is designed to release air as the valves are opened and are cut at a slight angle (like a funnel) so the air will easily be released without having to completely remove the screw. I suppose if you wanted you could replace the with a more professional screw valve if that suits you. Thanks for bringing this up for others who may have ideas to improve this concern of yours.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good to hear, I was worried I might be putting too much torque on them to seal. I've heard people putting teflon tape on the bleed screws. mine work good....I'll keep them as is. Thanks man
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos makes sense about the air flow angle, Thanks for that info !
I bought the "simple version" and it works great. Notice how on the simple version that the water lines will not be resting right on top of the very hot air tubing coming out of the compressor. It's also best to start up the compressor with the bleeder valve open until the unit gets going so as not to strain it. Same thing when you shut if off. I also bleed it off mid-operation for a second or two to mitigate water build-up. The guy at the 5 minute mark isn't using the oil breather and still has the original plug installed. BTW, Yong Heng now recommends synthetic compressor oil, not the 46.
Thanks Jack - agreed, releasing pressure using the bleeder value can certainly help the longevity of our YH. I'll double-check your comment about the missing oil breather - initially I did try a higher quality breather but it choked the YH so I thought I reverted the configuration to the "factory stock" setup.
Great video! Really appreciate you taking the time to share your tips and experiences with the Yong Heng compressor! I found it very useful!
Hope yours is still going strong! God bless!
Run a dye colour in the water so you can see if the water is pumping through the tubes. If the pump fails it is much easier to see coloured water than with clear water.
Good one!
I got rid of the water pump and use tapwater And works awesome But I do keep water pump with me just in case I need to use a bucket
Sounds interesting, so do you keep the tapwater running continuously?
Not sure why your secondary filter limited your air, I have one and it works fine. I also bought a bigger pump for the water, but I use coolant fluid for a TIG welding torch.
You should put a listing of the extra parts that you bought in the description above. I would want to copy your setup.
DItto!
Geez, I wish I had kept all the receipts but since I, too had to do several searches from a variety of sources (Alibaba and ebay for some, bigger companies for a several, and independents on Amazon for others), sorry but I'm afraid "the trail has gotten cold." If you have one specific item, let me know and I'll try to search my email folders. Good luck!
@@moonlitnite49 what do you have in that first, copper color, filter? Desiccant or coalescent?
@@FlexDRG looks like a coalescent filter to me, and the taller yellower one is a tuxing molecular sieve filter. i wonder if you honestly need TWO of them?
I would like to add a one-way valve to my Yong Heng setup. I need a foster fitting on either end as the Yong Heng and my Scott Pack both have quick releases. I noted your one-way valve and need to know where I can purchase the needed items. Very informative video by the way.
Sorry I don’t have any info on your desired fitting and we often seem to require a few tries to get it right. Good luck and happy hunting trails. Michael
I bought a 5 gallon drum of distilled water, put antifreeze/coolant in the water. Lives under the bench no corrosion.
Sweet - WTG, that's an elegant solution. BTW, I have a screw-tight gamma-lid on my 5 gallon bucket to avoid evaporation. ~ Michael
As long as the output hose is also submerged, it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. The royal purple does a pretty good job, unless you set up in your house like I did. Then you find out it has a smell too. The diester(scuba compressor oil) doesn't have any smell to it. It also doesn't carbon up the second stage piston as much. The hydraulic oil is not designed for this application, I have no idea why Yong Heng recommended it.
Excellent points about the oil - many thanks. Regarding the height of the cooling bucket, as long as the pump can push the weight of the water "upstream" (uphill), agreed in that circumstance it doesn't matter where you put the bucket. Yet with a low CFM pump pushing water upwards, gravity has a direct correlation to the height. A "quick and dirty" way to determine the affect with your existing gear is to start the pump when connected to the water source down on the ground. On the pump output tubing that is not connected to the YH, try raising the tube from ground level to 1, 2, and 3 feet - for a small pump you'll be surprised how gravity has a significant affect on the flow. Obviously, we want to have a much flow as possible to move hot water away from the compression head. Thanks for bringing up this important topic.
I used mine to top up a 7 litre dive bottle from 200 bar to 300 bar and it was getting way too hot recirculating the water. I ran the water to waste whilst topping up with cold water and it ran like dream. Twenty one minutes to top up which is the travelling time to my dive shop. Then I have hang around for at least an hour or go back for it much later the. hand over £6 and then drive home. £165 for the compressor was a steal!
Thanks for sharing your experience, Steven. Perhaps because my environment was cool and not with warm ambient summertime temperatures, my water never got very warm at all. But I definitely agree with you that to find a way to ensure that even the paltry amount of cool water that has a small, restricted flow through the compressor head, it's a great idea to supplement the incoming water with a cool supply! Having an cold air conditioner duct funnel air to the head would be great, too. Good luck and thanks again for sharing!
Instead of water with treatment can I use a 50/50 premix antifreeze that has been chilled to cool my yong heng compressor
Would it not be better to run your water at ambient temperature rather than cooled with ice? I am just thinking that it must be generating condensation if it is humid air running into a warm machine.
Good point - in some situations (highly humid air) condensation might be a factor, at least in theory. And practically speaking, whether the input water is ambient temperature or icy cold, it won't make a huge difference of the head temperature in most conditions.
We are compressing ambient air to 4500psi. That is 310 times atmospheric pressure. A great deal of condensation will occur either way, since the extreme pressure raises the dew to very, very high. Also the compressor head does not stay cold for very long at all. Using ambient temperature water will not significantly reduce the amount water produced.
How do you remove the ring that holds the burst disk in the pressure relief valve?
That is some nice garage storage!
My pump seems to be blowing a drop or two of water through. I change air filters quite often but still... Any idea if there's anything else I can do?
Perhaps you have excessive moisture/humidity in the air and maybe the inline YongHeng "cigarette" filter just isn't quite enough to do the job (which is why I went overboard and added two extra filters. If nothing else, be sure to change your cigarette filter often or at least squeeze out all the water between uses.
It matters which hose you use for the in and out. The way it works, even in a chemistry lab using water cooled condensers, is the input enters at the bottom forcing any air to the top and out to the output line. If reversed with water entering into the top, you would have air trapped at the top and not able to escape out the bottom. If this happens you would have air at the top of the cylinder and not get the water cooling effect you're looking for and possibly enable overheating of the cylinder.
Great points! Thank you for your contribution, especially since mitigating overheating is paramount for the YH.
any idea where I can get a spare check valve?
Hope all is well. It seems I can’t find much help troubleshooting my Yong heng. It had served me well for 2 years , but unfortunately it had failed me today. I have no idea where to start or what to replace. Both air chambers are holding pressure, but it just won’t go past 1500psi ( I usually fill my 100cu 4500 guppy tank , all the way to 4500. Never had a problem until today ) I do notice of a crank close the release valve (with a bit of force from a wrench) on the second chamber it will climb to 2000psi but if I hang tighten it will fall back to 1500psi and just float there running. I don’t know what to do. I can’t fill my tank anymore. Any help would be appreciated. I’m prepared to take apart, but I have no idea what to replace or look for , like I said.
Assuming you've already used a soapy spray bottle to check for leaks, I'd consider tearing down the head and ensure the valves working and not corroded. I recall seeing photos of some nasty looking valves. The two-stage piston and associated rings would also be worth a close examination.
ruclips.net/video/YjsBcKSVeGk/видео.html
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos yes thank you for your attention. Looks like I’m going to have to tear it down. I can’t imagine how much gunked up it can be. I really only run the unit for about 12 minutes at a time. But I have used it quite a bit ...haha. Enough so that I’ve had to replace the 1st stage line due to rust. Obviously from the water and oil accumulation over the 2 year span. But other than that it has been fine. I referenced your video earlier on and have 3 stages now to clean the air. It’s been awesome , aside from this recent issue. I’m definitely going the strip it down to access that second stage pistol head. And see what we get. It does look clean from what I can tell, looking at the white acrylic “oring spacer “ in front of the bleed valve screw. I don’t see any gunk build up. Im definitely going to have to strip this down to check those piston orings. I should use Silicone grease on any orings I come across, correct ?? Thanks again
@@radman731 Go get 'em and kudos to you - you've definitely got your money's worth from your YH. I remember when I was originally investigating the air input and tried using an input filter to help mitigate against the dust issues you encountered. NOPE - when I started it up I couldn't get more than 1500 PSI. Stumped something was amiss and hopeful I didn't have a defective unit or be something wrong), I took off the filter and the compressor immediately started heading up to 2,000 and after a reasonable period over 4,000 PSI - whew! At any rate, that's when I decided not to fool around with input filters that can starve the YT from adequate input air. So my only advise is whenever possible, find a clean area to operate the compressor. Happy Trails!
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos thanks for the tip. I most definitely will remove the air input valve and see what I can find, before taking it apart. Hopefully, that will be the source of the problem and start building up pressure, without a tear down.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos good morning from NYC. Figured I’d give you an update.
I had took it apart. I cleaned and relubed the piston stem. It was a bit gunked up. Cleaned out the fittings , I came across, as best as I could. The first stage chamber (cyclone chamber ) was pretty rusty and wet, I guess there isn’t much you can do about that. Some fittings had more rust than others. It was still pretty wet inside , as well. There were rust fragments inside also. The 1st stage was pretty corroded out of all the stages of the unit. Not major but it was in its way. I guess there really is no way around that. Water and oil are going to go through there. But other than that overall everything seemed ok. Anyways as I was putting it all back together, I stripped one of the major fittings on the second stage chamber. My very last fitting 🤦🏼♂️. I just took parts I thought would be useful and threw the whole machine out. It’s really a good product. It’s last me 2 years for $300 dollars. I think it was worth it. There is no way of avoiding the rust build up on fitting. I guess after some time you are going to want to change out the fittings over time and are eventually going to have to do a full rebuild. , I don’t really see any of those fittings and such on sale besides o rings and such. But yeah I’m going to be using my pump for a while. If I order another I’ll get a warranty, I think thats a definite must. It eventually is going to rust up on you. Which makes me wonder about these expensive units out there. I really don’t think there is anyway around. Your going to get rust build up and need to rebuild something at some point. Whether you pay $300 or $2,000. I dunno that’s my opinion. Take care everyone.
Does anyone know where to get replacement parts for the compressor?
My oil breather cracked and the blow plug needs replacing.
I bough the unit on line but can’t find parts.
What about using car radiator fluid rather than water? It's formulated not to mess with metals and rubbers/plastics.
Good question, yet having researched this 2 years ago... hmm now, what was the reason I didn't go with the obvious answer! (few minutes later...) Aha, I think I have it and it had something to do with corrosion since antifreeze:
1. Is designed to keep fluids from freezing, not overheating
2. Does not have distillation properties
Yes, at first sounds weird since antifreeze also helps keep things cool for a car engine (literally and figuratively). So I searched the internet and some of these posts agree with my somewhat vague recollection:
www.airgunnation.com/topic/yong-heng-and-antifreeze-coolant/
That said, some claim antifreeze works fine, so unless you anticipate heavy and frequent use, use what works best for you.
Happy trails, Michael
Where did you buy the coalescing filter?
I found mine on ebay and recall Alibaba also has them. ~ Michael
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos links or better search words, please.
Will.. I have doubts that the compressor that failed was a copy not the original Young Heng. The copy compressor tends to fail very quickly. The original YH does not have quick release water nipples,it comes with brass hose nipples. The cylinder is shiny steel not black or any other color. Thanks for the video
can you use the compressor to fill up the PCP gun directly or is the tank necessary
Depending on your configuration (valves, etc) it might be possible yet it would be bit tricky and perhaps risky that your timing is accurate when you shut off the value and turn off the compressor.
What size batteries does the digital thermostat use mine shipped without them and no information on the size
LR44 1.5 volt alkaline should be easy to buy, although you could also use L1154 or AG13 (and maybe 357 if you are in a pinch but it has a different chemistry).
I use ethylene glycol coolant so i dont have to worry about freezing in the winter.
Very smart and I would warm up the high pressure head before starting if it's near freezing temperature.
i like your videos...what is the difference between a hardcover and set pressure versions?
The better (hardcore) version has the water “cyclone” and a second cooling tube to provide better cooling than the simple version. So the simple version will get hot quicker, which means more shutdowns on bigger tanks and more maintenance.
You know what I found works well is a higher gpm pump from harbor freight
And a liquid computer radiator with two fans $14 each on Amazon and Mobil 827 synthetic compressor oil (eBay) keeps the unit very cool and keeps running no ice needed
Wow - sounds almost too good to be true! I've found that the YH flow is limited by the small circumference of the tube and internal assembly. How may gallons per minute is your pump size and does it really pass that much through the head? So if I understand that you are running the Mobil 827 oil through your YH head, how much oil is held in the reservoir? Love to hear more...
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos
Looks like they don’t carry the one I have anymore but they do have one that says it’s rated at 158 gph I had to heat the plastic hose I had a force it over the fitting, but pumps great. It’s only $11 give it a try
The radiator same thing.I recommend getting two 120mm AC fans so you can plug them in instead of 12v dc type and wiring in a power supply. You can get higher cfm that way too
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos
I think next thing on the list is to try a radiator cooler additive like “redline water wetter” which lowers the surface tension of the water and should make the radiator work even more efficient. I have used it in vehicles and it works very well especially if you live in a hot state
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos
Sorry missed the other part of question
I don’t know the exact amount of oil that is in there, but there’s a guy on ebay that sells 12 oz for $20 that is plenty. This is by far the best thing for the compressor you will notice right off the bat, it will be quieter and smoother.
The flow rate on that pump seems to match the radiator too, very happy with that purchase too
If need help with any of the purchases let me know I’ll send you the links
@@richardyabuki5357 Awesome, I'm scoot over to ebay right now once you provide the link for the proper liquid computer radiator - I think my bigger pump should be adequate and the synthetic oil should be easy to find. Cheers, Michael
Would I need an organic sieve for a 48ci tank? Or would a coalescing filter be fine?
Generally, you’d be fine just using an organic sieve... assuming you do everything else correctly as covered in the videos. I’d say the coalescing filter is a nice extra but probably not required in most situations. But if you’re in a humid environment, work the YH hard (long run cycles), don’t regularly change the YH filter, have poor practices (bad setup, forget to do regular bleeds, etc), it would probably be wise to have the coalescing filter, too. Good luck 👍
hi ,,when i plug it to the wall outlet of my house and turn it on ,it deems all the lights in the house ,,,what can i do ?
nothing
bud what type of oil is the Royal Purple oil please give me a amazon link cheers bud
I recommend: Royal Purple 04513 Synfilm Recip 100 High Performance Synthetic Air Compressor Lubricant. Right now 1 Gallon is $67 on Amazon, better than $80 on ebay, or $101 at Walmart. This will last you a looooong time :) www.amazon.com/Royal-Purple-Performance-Synthetic-Compressor/dp/B000BRTCIS
you want slower moving water so it will have time to cool.
Hmm, I can't quite get my mind around that notion.
That's actually backwards
yeah i disagree with that notion
Outback with Trevor That doesn’t make sense. You want the slower moving water so it has time to absorb the heat from the head and carry it away.
The slower water goes the more heat it absorbs from whatever it's flowing through...of course there's a happy medium. Too slow and it's not getting the heat out fast enough, too fast and it's not absorbing enough geelat before exiting.
I appreciate your point and I certainly don't profess to be an expert in thermodynamics! That said, whether the water flows somewhat faster or slower, the primary determinant is fluid temperature since the *conduction* is essentially a constant. You might try cooling the external head using a fan or design a better heat sink to dissipate the air if you are operating in a warm climate.
where can i buy the one way air restriction value
On eBay search for: Stainless Steel Bleed Valve 1/4" M NPT x 1/4" F NPT Bleed Valve (A-B1115). The item price is $29.70, sold by supplier 4rfun. You will also want to purchase adapters to get back to 1/8" HPA. Here's the link to the one-way check valve and adapters including the 1/8" NPT female and 1/8" Foster male connectors (with additional ordering links)
www.airgunnation.com/topic/check-valve-for-moisture-filter-gold-filter/
@@radman731 Howdy Ranman - at first I was going to give a knee-jerk response of change Royal Purple once every 5 hours. But as I thought more about it, just like your automobile there are many factors that will affect the load, stress, environment, etc. and those factors should and will affect the contaminants in the oil and how fast it will break down. So if it's a hot, humid day, your YH is brand new, you are filling up a huge tank, you don't take engine breaks every 15-20 minutes, you let the head temperature regularly run about 60C, you might even have small leads in your connectors, etc, then you should change your Royal Purple more frequently. I'd say change it once after your first hour of operation to flush the loose metal flakes, then every few hours of operation before running your YH, look at the sight gauge and if it's no longer purple and is getting dark, it's time to change it! Or if have a good nose, take off the black plastic breather and give it a sniff - if it smells stinky, IMMEDIATELY change the oil. Good luck!
California Travel Videos Thank you for your attention and great answers. I'm going to create a little log, to monitor my run time, till I get more comfortable with the unit. I'll change the oil after every hour, that sounds ideal. Would you share how you go about changing and maintaining your molecular seive. Mine should be arriving in another weeks or so. Then I'll give my Yong Heng a true pressure test. I only have a 100 ci 4500 air tank. It's brand new and i don't want to contaminate it.
@@radman731 Sounds like after the first hour and oil change, with a small 100 ci tank you won't need to run your YH more than 5 minutes to get to 4500 PSI. In that case, after the first oil change, try waiting 2 run hours to dump the oil to validate the oil is bright purple without impurities. If so, next time wait 3 hours, etc. and consider eventually going up to 5 hours or 6-12 months between oil changes. Your main maintenance items will be not to let the YH overhead (unlikely with your small tank) and try to avoid sudden shutdowns without cranking open the bleed value as you close the valve to your tank. I've seen enough piston failures that we want to avoid unnecessary stress when the YH is operating under high pressures and may encounter a nasty BACK PRESSURE that the internal YH check valve may not be able to handle. Happy trails...
type that in google search, for quicker answer
What is the max temp c can u run mine went to 60c in 1 minute with water on it got hot quick
Yikes - FULL STOP, Houston, we have a problem!!! Something is seriously wrong. Assuming you have good oil lubricating correctly at the right fluid level, don’t have anything damaged internally, don’t have a air blockage in the line (or defective part), installed the air filter correctly, the YH was assembled correctly by the factory, the YH should not rise to 60C in only 1 minute. If you can’t find someone to help you, consider ether returning it or buying another and using this one for parts - the YH is certainly very affordable compared to the compressors that cost $2,000 up to $5,000+. Most everyone has good luck with our YH compressors. But if setting up and running the YH seems to complicated or tedious, it’s probably worth spending more money for a compressor that requires less attention and has much better technical support and manuals. Good luck !
U dont want to go above 50-55c. 60's pushing it ESPECIALLY if ur only at 1 min in.. u can get away with 60 if you almost done but definitely not at the beginning. Ur doing something wrong. I dont think its ur y.h.
Warning, at mark 7:41 plumber's crack.
Or as my wife chides me, “Put a nickel in it!” A guy just can’t get any respect these days... ;)
You tank has a one way valve with bleeder?
No, tanks do not have one-way bleed valves, it's something you need to buy and add to the line yourself.
thank you.
Your videos have helped me a great deal. Thanks for posting them and explaining everything so well. I would really appreciate it if you would help me with a couple of questions about the shorter of the two gold filters, the first one that the air passes through. Can the top and/or bottom be unscrewed to gain access to the inside of the unit (like you can on the Tuxing filter)? Also, why is the drain valve positioned so far from the bottom of the vessel? It seems like a pool of water would collect below the drain, and the only way to completely drain the unit would be to tilt it over on it side. Is that correct? Or does the first gold filter drain completely by simply opening the drain valve? Thank you!
It's irrelevant if the water is above or below the pump by the same distance. You would be pumping against the exact same head either way, the only question is whether you do so before or after the pump.
just need to make sure the outlet hose is under water
Exactly, he must have been some kind of engineer.
i boiught the same one off Ebay.. Garbage, fighting to get my money back, Now bought new one on amazon.. Works great, came in super great box. well packed. They tried to give me a $45 refund. I got Ebay buyers protection.
Don't I repeat don't run any compressor on extension cords unless you make one out of romex solid Cooper wire
Great general advise - thanks for sharing your thoughts. That said, we should conservatively estimate that the Yong Heng will consume 1800 watts, so running 117 volts a/c, that roughly 15 amps. Assuming your extension cable is 25 feet, that required conductor size is 16 gauge copper or a bigger 12 gauge wire conductor if it's an aluminum conductor. And to your point, a Romex solid wire conductor may be 10, 12 or 14 gauge size. Of course, regardless the size of the wire for your extension cord, if the receptacle screws that go to the circuit breaker box are not making a very good/tight electrical/mechanical connection, you the poor connection will not pass 15 amps and might even heat up and cause a fire. That was my concern connecting to the circuit, so I recommend with a heavy current draw device like the Yong Heng, also be careful to ensure the motor doesn't seem to slow down, lights on the circuit start to dim more than 1 second, etc. Good luck and here's a useful link to calculate the wire size if your extension cord is longer than 25 feet: www.paigewire.com/pumpWireCalc.aspx
I have yong Hing Compressor that I received on a pallet that I bid on it does have freight damage but it is brand new it would be good for parts the main frame that holds the valves on each side are cracked the brackets that hold the valves are cracked if anybody is interested in using it for parts it has not been run please contact me for further info. It’s brand new never been run, just freight damage. Also there’s no temperature gauge it was missing
You need to make sure all those fittings and that one way valves your using is/are rated at over 4500 psi, 95% of that stuff available is not rated for high pressure. Royal Purple is the Slick 50 of today, by the way, your paying for advertising and a little purple dye.
Thanks for sharing your tips Rick. Agreed, not only getting the correct fitting but also a sufficiently high PSI is rating very important! Several times the fittings I purchased didn't turn out to be adequate for our application.
putting ice water does not damage the compressor.???
No, not at all. Actually, the second stage of the compressor has so much pressure, as you saw it is very hot and is hardly bothered by the very small amount of cold water that goes near the cylinder head.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos thanks friend
has anyone run this outdoors and hooked the water to a pressure regulator and the faucet of you house and discharge the water to the ground
I haven't tried this but have seen videos of others using this setup outdoors. Just be sure the water pressure is reasonable.
Yes it's nice to do all you recommend, yet if your an Airgunner on a budget, your tech talk sounds expensive . .
How true and if you are careful to use your YH for light use, it will definitely last longer. But of course for the heavy users of their gear, it's probably worth spending a bit extra and not have to soon buy a second compressor.
@@CaliforniaTravelVideos Thanks, I'm seriously considering ordering one tomorrow, the big decision is auto shut off or not. I would consider myself a light user. Thanks again...
@@bucsam1660 Wow, I totally forgot about the auto shutoff option and now that I think about it, initially I forgot the reason I didn't go with the auto shutoff option. Now that I look at it, I recall that it doesn't look all that reliable and I didn't want to risk the compressor not starting up, only to find out the circuit no longer works... after an hour of troubleshooting and then another hour to rewire around the circuit. IMO, we really should be watching the compressor from time to time anyway, rather than leave the area only to find the YH was heading for a catastrophe (overheading, loss of oil, leakage, mechanical noises...)
Hey California, I ordered my Yong Heng yesterday from Amazon. Saw a review where the guy uses Royal Purple Compressor oil instead of Hydraulic. Be safe🤠
I couldn't follow along on the video because the music made cry like a newborn baby.
Wow, sorry the music drew tears - wasn’t my intention and I’ll try to do better next time.
20 Watts?
Do you have a timestamp where you heard 20 watts? Actually, when the compressor is working hard the compressor is consuming over 1,500 watts.
thought it used 15 amps
Yes, that sounds correct - 15 amps x 117 volts comes close to the maximum 2,000 watt load for a home electrical circuit so don't run anything else on the line when you're running your YH! Enjoy, Michael
Instead of investing all the time you did to make changes, and all the money you spent on after-purchase parts, why didn't you just buy a better compressor in the first place?
Now that's a fair question John and I'm not one to go the cheapo route if a better product is reasonably priced. Yet a "better compressor" can run up to 4-5 times the cost of the YH. And like the others who are viewing this episode, we're okay spending some time and moderate costs to improve the reliability of our gear. And truthfully, even if we just bought two new units and switched in the second if the first broke (and used it for parts), we'd still come out spending less than half the cost of other compressors. Anyway, so far - so good and I wish you well on your decision. As it turned out, since there is an affordable dive shop 4 miles from my home, the best/cheapest answer would be to just have my scuba tank filled up when needed! Happy Trails, Michael
Why that stressing musick? I want info not a concert!
Thank you for your feedback - always great to hear views from others!
Way to many youtubers use music of all kinds and really do not NEED any whats so ever when teaching some thing, College, high school Never ever uses music to teach any course of study , Shows how stupid the person making video really is.
@@SonofGodly Certainly a truism for us left-brained crowd yet most RUclips viewers love to be entertained - even YT makes available a huge selection of Royalty Free music for Channel Producers. Regardless, I appreciate your feedback and agree too many new producers have distracting music tracks and often detracts from the content.
It bothers me too. Also when in big stores the music is too loud. I can remember k-mart doing this going back to the 70's but the volume wasn't as noticeable.
The only thing I hate is when people make narrated videos and the music is as loud as the speaker. It's very easy to set the music level way down when editing a video.
Use coolant instead of water
why add annoying music
Tout ça pour rien.Teop de filtre, trop de cinema.3 ans que j'ai le mien sans rien avoir rajouter.
If I can’t run more than 1 minute then it’s junk
rob woodall AGREED!!!