For what they are they perform surprisingly great!! I’m going on the 3 year mark with mine. I bought one when they first hit the market, mine actually called a “ Davy pump” and has a small scuba diver picture as the logo. ( I believe it is the early version of the yong heng ) I use royal purple gear oil and use automotive coolant to keep it cool. I use the pink stuff and I never have the need for ice. I’ve never seen it climb upwards of 90 degrees. With proper maintenance I think it has the potential to last a long time, but with anything mechanical something is going to fail at some point. Electric motor, pump head & piston or the crank sleeve ( yes crank sleeve, no bearing on the crank just a brass sleeve)
Good job on your first video. I just filled my first tank yesterday. All my stuff was just sitting on the ground. I devised a plan for a rolling stand last night, using parts I have on hand. Surprisingly, I have the same fan on your setup, but forgot about it until I saw yours. Not a big fan of the plywood tank box. I’m using a 7” round PVC tube, countersunk into the top deck. Very good explanation on why and how your stuff works!!!
Thanks for a good video. Someone mentioned in another video that Royal Purple will break down under the extreme pressure. They recommended a compressor oil used in extreme pressure. Might be worth researching..
Well you use PURPLE POWER reciprocating air compressor oil it has synthetic properties and if your getting it hot enough to break down what ever oil you probably won’t have to worry because you won’t have a working compressor long
I am working on my set up as well. I'll use a water chiller for laser engraver as the cooling method and add the copper tubing around the 2 high pressure lines to cool them down instead of the extra air cooling. I also bought two stage water-oil separator to separate the moisture instead of desiccant/molecular sieve. Because desiccant or molecular sieve has a limited capacity of moisture absorption and I have to re-dehydrate it every other month even when you are not using it. Dehydrating the intake air as what you did supposed to be the best way to protect the air lines and pump from corrosion but I'm just too lazy to replace the desiccant that often.
Looks cool but I'm thinking your filter is way better on the discharge side. When you compress ambient air w/humidity even down to 30% you ring the moisture out of it and as long as your sieve is loose the air will go around it bypass the drying part. Just a thought, good job.
Be pretty cool to make a closed loop cooling system with antifreeze. Stick a dirt bike radiator in front of the intake on that large fan and boom no more freezing those ice cubes lol
Scrap yard car heater radiator complete with fan use with small pond fountain pump. for good measure use an electric variable thermostat that switches off the compressor at the desired temperature while the fan and pump stay running the compressor will turn on again automatically when the temperature drops.
@@cloyd1950 Works fine starting up with air in it, My model stops and starts on a timer to prevent over heating. The problem comes when they are stopped for long periods and the upper cylinder gets moisture in it hydro locks and goes through the top of the main piston.
How is the Yong Heng holding up. I am still running the old hand pump, but I am curious about these guys. I also have seen many of the vids from our New Yorker friend, he does have good vids, and your vid is also quite helpful. Thanks for your info. You got any shooting videos?
All that effort and well planned AND executed, but that oil doesnt belong with this otherwise awesome set up bro. You need a HP synthetic oil for those. The RP does ok but considering everything else here get the right oil my man. Very nice though.
After all the parts and work why not spend the $$ on a Nomad II and have solid warranty, air cooling and portability? Particularly when your plan includes having to replace the compressor? If just to tinker cool
The Nomad 2 will not fill large cylinders like a 98 cu ft. The Yong Heng will. The Nomad and then there that are air cooled, are meant to be portable and fill guns directly.
I liked your video. I have been watching all the videos I can on these compressors and you have a great set up. The intake canisters have only been shown on one other video which I can't find. But yes if you have humidity in the air it is going to create more moisture in the system. Do you have a list of sources for the fittings , hose and bleed valve? Is it a check valve or back flow preventer?
Why wouldn't you up grade the cooling system with a good pump and radiator and coolent as well so it prolonge the pump life the fan cools the out side but what about the inside.👍✌️👌💯
I don’t think you technically need to but my thought was the if the air going in is dryer then maybe the air coming out is dryer . Maybe it’s all for nothing but for my time and effort maybe I’ll be rewarded with dryer air in the end .
@@Jesselovespinball I ask because this is the second vid I've seen using this method, however my research on scuba forums ( high air quality standard) and scuba compressor engineering write ups don't seem to try removing air precompression. I'm no professional by any means, but you might be interested in what I've read while researching for my Yong Hang. First after compressing the air ideally cooling it (inter/aftercooler) to increase it's ability to condensate. By compressing the air, water vapor becomes liquid water and running it through a mechanical air/water separator with a centrifugal design can remove 99.3% of water. Basically it a small tube down a cylinder (high velocity) that make a 180° turn back up the larger outer tube (lower velocity) and the droplets accumulate in the bottom and are manually bled out. Followed by a priorty valve/back pressure valve or one way valve set around 2000psi. This helps build the separators pressure quickly before the bottle even begins to fill, greatly increasing the separators ability to remove water at lower pressures (beginning of an empty bottle fill). Next a molecular sieve with zeolite 13x and perhaps with color changing silica beads (as an indicator of when to replace), or something of that nature. Followed by your first or second prioity valve (aka back pressure valve). The priorty valve set to approximately 2000 psi is critial, increasing the molecular sieves efficiency by 400% at low bottle pressures, due to increased dwell time. (If I understand correctly 😰) I've also heard activated charcoal is good for removing oil vapor. As far as a mechanical separator, you can get one off Amazon for about $120. Expensive sadly, but otherwise the molecular sieves will fill with water to quickly. Personally I bought the one with two towers first being mechanical second being a sieve for $220, both with bleeders at the bottom. Hopefully I didn't butcher this explanation too bad. TLDR: after compression have a mechanical separator, followed by a molecular sieve, followed by a priority valve set to approximately 2000psi.
@@Jesselovespinball It s extremely beneficial to remove as much moisture as possible from the ambient air before compression. Heat is the enemy of compressors and is dramatically increased by the latent heat of vaporization caused by the phase change of vapor to liquid under pressure. As a design engineer for oil and gas compression I deal with the effects of heat in reciprocating gas compressors daily. I actually provide my Yong Hen with 100% dry air by using my 90 psi shop compressor routed through a Harbor Freight refrigerated air dryer and then regulating the pressure back down to 5psi before feeding it to the Yong Hen intake. It is critical to reduce the intake air pressure back down in this method as you are increasing the cubic feet of air that you are feeding the Yong Hen. It is designed for ambient air suction pressure and will become a bomb if you attempt to feed it 90 psi air into the first stage. I stress again if you chose to try this you must regulate the air from the shop compressor back down to 1- 5 psi. That said this removes the latent heat from the compression as you do not have any phase change (condensation) which allows the compressor to run much cooler.
Not to mention you will have no moisture in the 2nd stage discharge air that is going into your bottle. I still keep the cigarette filter online before my bottle intake to filter out the oil and particulates that may come out of the Yong Hen.
What did you use for the tubing that goes into the compressor after the two dessicant filters? Mine seems to be too tight to accommodate a 1/4" tube/pipe/nipple. The smaller end of the stock tapered intake filter already rubs against the silver thingy when I screw it back in.
jack clarke Thanks Jack ! It’s funny you mentioned the water pump , I ordered one from amazon with a way better flow rate a few days ago . Always looking for good advice so thank you !
Also the other side .. bleed valve .. is the condensate release..that's the 1st stage by the air intake. Before the high pressure outlet .. bleed the other side every 5 10 min
Just for the initial setup is, when I started I bought 3used scuba tanks for the price of one,250$. I got them fill for 6$ dollars each plus 10$ each for visual inspection (once at year needs visual) at a diving shop, and my first year of 2009 my Marauder came set from the factory at 2000psi so I have air for the entire year, so I cranked up the rifle to accept 3000psi and starter using more air than ever so in 2010 visual and fill up each tank twice and by 2011 I became power hungry and bought two more PCP rifles a (I'm a Hunter now😅) Sumatra .25 and Evanix AR6 Renegade. I don't want to say where am at right now but know this, if you ever decide to go for it, you will get addicted to this hobby and will find all kind of excuses to justify the next purchase.
You are drying the air on the wrong side. Moisture in air is relative to temperature and pressure. That's why it is called relative humidity. Moisture must be removed from the output side of your compressor.
I was gonna say that. Pressuring air makes water, nevertheless, as long as it filters out the oil, oil is what causes your orings to slip and get pinched inside a pcp rifle. Moisture can have bad effects long term but oil will destroy your orings immediately
Guys! Dry air is dry air! Removing moisture from the Intake side is not as useful as removing moisture on the output, BUT it's still removing moisture! Da. When air is compressed to 14.7 times atmospheric pressure ALL moisture Condences into liquid. But the less moisture going In means less moisture coming out! His set up is double "dried" on the input And the output. That can Never be a bad thing. I think it's a brilliant set up!
Good set up. For those who use 12ftp air rifles in the UK make sure you do not have oil in the air as it could diesel and push the gun to be illegal. You mention 12v compressor why would you want to fill an air tank with one ? no point as it would be with you in the car.
He is filling a tank, depending on your club that can be up to 20 smackaronies per pop. If you just fill a small marker-/PCP airrifle tank at time this setup is overkill.
1st u tube video, very well done
OK, hands down you have THE BEST Yong Heng set up I've EVER seen !!!!! If I had a garage, I'd do the same. That's so amazing. I love it, man.
For what they are they perform surprisingly great!! I’m going on the 3 year mark with mine. I bought one when they first hit the market, mine actually called a “ Davy pump” and has a small scuba diver picture as the logo. ( I believe it is the early version of the yong heng ) I use royal purple gear oil and use automotive coolant to keep it cool. I use the pink stuff and I never have the need for ice.
I’ve never seen it climb upwards of 90 degrees. With proper maintenance I think it has the potential to last a long time, but with anything mechanical something is going to fail at some point. Electric motor, pump head & piston or the crank sleeve ( yes crank sleeve, no bearing on the crank just a brass sleeve)
Bronze and steel, especially stainless steel wear at an INCREDIBLY slow rate, that is why we hot rodders use bronze inserts in our heads
Good job on your first video. I just filled my first tank yesterday. All my stuff was just sitting on the ground. I devised a plan for a rolling stand last night, using parts I have on hand. Surprisingly, I have the same fan on your setup, but forgot about it until I saw yours. Not a big fan of the plywood tank box. I’m using a 7” round PVC tube, countersunk into the top deck. Very good explanation on why and how your stuff works!!!
Thanks for a good video. Someone mentioned in another video that Royal Purple will break down under the extreme pressure. They recommended a compressor oil used in extreme pressure. Might be worth researching..
Well you use PURPLE POWER reciprocating air compressor oil it has synthetic properties and if your getting it hot enough to break down what ever oil you probably won’t have to worry because you won’t have a working compressor long
Mate that's the best video about the pump I've seen, awsame job 👍👍
I am working on my set up as well. I'll use a water chiller for laser engraver as the cooling method and add the copper tubing around the 2 high pressure lines to cool them down instead of the extra air cooling. I also bought two stage water-oil separator to separate the moisture instead of desiccant/molecular sieve. Because desiccant or molecular sieve has a limited capacity of moisture absorption and I have to re-dehydrate it every other month even when you are not using it. Dehydrating the intake air as what you did supposed to be the best way to protect the air lines and pump from corrosion but I'm just too lazy to replace the desiccant that often.
You did real good with your first video.
Great job 👍. That is definitely a monster duct fan you got there.
Looks cool but I'm thinking your filter is way better on the discharge side. When you compress ambient air w/humidity even down to 30% you ring the moisture out of it and as long as your sieve is loose the air will go around it bypass the drying part. Just a thought, good job.
Your video has been the best one yet. I think your setup is great and look to do the same with my compressor.
Be pretty cool to make a closed loop cooling system with antifreeze. Stick a dirt bike radiator in front of the intake on that large fan and boom no more freezing those ice cubes lol
Scrap yard car heater radiator complete with fan use with small pond fountain pump. for good measure use an electric variable thermostat that switches off the compressor at the desired temperature while the fan and pump stay running the compressor will turn on again automatically when the temperature drops.
@@sidneyeaston6927 You have to bleed the air before you shut it off or if you start it back up under pressure it won't last long.
@@cloyd1950 Works fine starting up with air in it, My model stops and starts on a timer to prevent over heating. The problem comes when they are stopped for long periods and the upper cylinder gets moisture in it hydro locks and goes through the top of the main piston.
Nice video I did not know that pvc was rated for that much air pressure. That would scare me to have that much air pressure under plastic
@@charleshayden3931 OK I sure wondered
very fine and detailed made - many thx Jesse
Did Excellent for the first time! Really, really good information, you rock!
How is your yong heng doing? any more upgrades?
Very nice .....Great video gonna try to copy your set-up best one i seen yet....
Air velocity Sport I think is the channel. Great set up.
Good job! Very helpful, thanks!!!
Issue might arise where the silica might erode creating dust which might affect the compressor.. experience this at all?
Maybe, but there is a cloth filter in there also behind the end cap.. at least on my set up which is similar
Hey, where did u buy it for 200 bucks delivered? From what dealer?
Good f****** job dude man there's a good video man very informative
hi jesse, great set up you got there, just wondering how often you change the oil and how much oil the sump will hold?
How is the Yong Heng holding up. I am still running the old hand pump, but I am curious about these guys. I also have seen many of the vids from our New Yorker friend, he does have good vids, and your vid is also quite helpful. Thanks for your info. You got any shooting videos?
What size are the threads on the air intake at the cylinder ? 1/4” or mm ??
Pretty good video for the first one. I am like you, I have never made a video for youtube except for the hunting videos.
All that effort and well planned AND executed, but that oil doesnt belong with this otherwise awesome set up bro. You need a HP synthetic oil for those. The RP does ok but considering everything else here get the right oil my man.
Very nice though.
After all the parts and work why not spend the $$ on a Nomad II and have solid warranty, air cooling and portability?
Particularly when your plan includes having to replace the compressor?
If just to tinker cool
I agree especially if you shoot everyday and use it quite often. These compressors are not built for that. I have one but only one gun .
The Nomad 2 will not fill large cylinders like a 98 cu ft. The Yong Heng will. The Nomad and then there that are air cooled, are meant to be portable and fill guns directly.
I liked your video. I have been watching all the videos I can on these compressors and you have a great set up. The intake canisters have only been shown on one other video which I can't find. But yes if you have humidity in the air it is going to create more moisture in the system. Do you have a list of sources for the fittings , hose and bleed valve? Is it a check valve or back flow preventer?
Where did you order your Yong Heng from?
Nice job
Why wouldn't you up grade the cooling system with a good pump and radiator and coolent as well so it prolonge the pump life the fan cools the out side but what about the inside.👍✌️👌💯
Why remove the water precompression, is it a flaw of the Yong Hang. Are any scuba compressors using this method?
I don’t think you technically need to but my thought was the if the air going in is dryer then maybe the air coming out is dryer . Maybe it’s all for nothing but for my time and effort maybe I’ll be rewarded with dryer air in the end .
@@Jesselovespinball I ask because this is the second vid I've seen using this method, however my research on scuba forums ( high air quality standard) and scuba compressor engineering write ups don't seem to try removing air precompression.
I'm no professional by any means, but you might be interested in what I've read while researching for my Yong Hang.
First after compressing the air ideally cooling it (inter/aftercooler) to increase it's ability to condensate. By compressing the air, water vapor becomes liquid water and running it through a mechanical air/water separator with a centrifugal design can remove 99.3% of water. Basically it a small tube down a cylinder (high velocity) that make a 180° turn back up the larger outer tube (lower velocity) and the droplets accumulate in the bottom and are manually bled out. Followed by a priorty valve/back pressure valve or one way valve set around 2000psi. This helps build the separators pressure quickly before the bottle even begins to fill, greatly increasing the separators ability to remove water at lower pressures (beginning of an empty bottle fill).
Next a molecular sieve with zeolite 13x and perhaps with color changing silica beads (as an indicator of when to replace), or something of that nature. Followed by your first or second prioity valve (aka back pressure valve). The priorty valve set to approximately 2000 psi is critial, increasing the molecular sieves efficiency by 400% at low bottle pressures, due to increased dwell time. (If I understand correctly 😰)
I've also heard activated charcoal is good for removing oil vapor.
As far as a mechanical separator, you can get one off Amazon for about $120. Expensive sadly, but otherwise the molecular sieves will fill with water to quickly. Personally I bought the one with two towers first being mechanical second being a sieve for $220, both with bleeders at the bottom.
Hopefully I didn't butcher this explanation too bad.
TLDR: after compression have a mechanical separator, followed by a molecular sieve, followed by a priority valve set to approximately 2000psi.
@@Jesselovespinball It s extremely beneficial to remove as much moisture as possible from the ambient air before compression. Heat is the enemy of compressors and is dramatically increased by the latent heat of vaporization caused by the phase change of vapor to liquid under pressure. As a design engineer for oil and gas compression I deal with the effects of heat in reciprocating gas compressors daily. I actually provide my Yong Hen with 100% dry air by using my 90 psi shop compressor routed through a Harbor Freight refrigerated air dryer and then regulating the pressure back down to 5psi before feeding it to the Yong Hen intake. It is critical to reduce the intake air pressure back down in this method as you are increasing the cubic feet of air that you are feeding the Yong Hen. It is designed for ambient air suction pressure and will become a bomb if you attempt to feed it 90 psi air into the first stage. I stress again if you chose to try this you must regulate the air from the shop compressor back down to 1- 5 psi. That said this removes the latent heat from the compression as you do not have any phase change (condensation) which allows the compressor to run much cooler.
Not to mention you will have no moisture in the 2nd stage discharge air that is going into your bottle. I still keep the cigarette filter online before my bottle intake to filter out the oil and particulates that may come out of the Yong Hen.
All commercial air compressors remove the water before and after compression this is usually done by rapid cooling
What did you use for the tubing that goes into the compressor after the two dessicant filters?
Mine seems to be too tight to accommodate a 1/4" tube/pipe/nipple. The smaller end of the stock tapered intake filter already rubs against the silver thingy when I screw it back in.
Use any tubing as it is not really under any great pressure or vacuum forces.just has to be air tight.
@@sidneyeaston6927 Yeah, that's what I surmised so I bought high temp tubing and a couple of fittings. Thanks.
clean
Brilliant video .. try a bigger water pump to increase water flow
jack clarke Thanks Jack ! It’s funny you mentioned the water pump , I ordered one from amazon with a way better flow rate a few days ago . Always looking for good advice so thank you !
Also the other side .. bleed valve .. is the condensate release..that's the 1st stage by the air intake. Before the high pressure outlet .. bleed the other side every 5 10 min
You have not mentioned the name of your fan !
Pretty expensive PCP hobby
Just for the initial setup is, when I started I bought 3used scuba tanks for the price of one,250$. I got them fill for 6$ dollars each plus 10$ each for visual inspection (once at year needs visual) at a diving shop, and my first year of 2009 my Marauder came set from the factory at 2000psi so I have air for the entire year, so I cranked up the rifle to accept 3000psi and starter using more air than ever so in 2010 visual and fill up each tank twice and by 2011 I became power hungry and bought two more PCP rifles a (I'm a Hunter now😅) Sumatra .25 and Evanix AR6 Renegade. I don't want to say where am at right now but know this, if you ever decide to go for it, you will get addicted to this hobby and will find all kind of excuses to justify the next purchase.
@@diy_tigremasacre6176 true that!!
Ping-pong
You are drying the air on the wrong side. Moisture in air is relative to temperature and pressure. That's why it is called relative humidity. Moisture must be removed from the output side of your compressor.
oh no way..dont tell me he done all this and its no good lol
I was gonna say that. Pressuring air makes water, nevertheless, as long as it filters out the oil, oil is what causes your orings to slip and get pinched inside a pcp rifle. Moisture can have bad effects long term but oil will destroy your orings immediately
Guys! Dry air is dry air! Removing moisture from the Intake side is not as useful as removing moisture on the output, BUT it's still removing moisture! Da. When air is compressed to 14.7 times atmospheric pressure ALL moisture Condences into liquid. But the less moisture going In means less moisture coming out! His set up is double "dried" on the input And the output. That can Never be a bad thing. I think it's a brilliant set up!
You have not links to the bleeding valve either 😒
I bought a open box one took a chance I paid $150 LOL
Run ya water thru a 25 foot copper tube coil in that water and you'll never get the head hot.
Good set up. For those who use 12ftp air rifles in the UK make sure you do not have oil in the air as it could diesel and push the gun to be illegal.
You mention 12v compressor why would you want to fill an air tank with one ? no point as it would be with you in the car.
Vertical video, your detailed about your air, care about your video
Wtf bro by the time you payed for all this shit you could’ve bought a nicer compressor by omega lol
Dehsickant😅
All that to fill a rifle??? No thanks!!!
He is filling a tank, depending on your club that can be up to 20 smackaronies per pop. If you just fill a small marker-/PCP airrifle tank at time this setup is overkill.
Orbies
Just buy a decent quality compressor. Instead of trying to make good Chinese rubbish.
What New York guy? link?