I tried to put it all into text so I can refer to it when tuning. Leaving it here for reference and also for anyone who will need it. I'm a newbie at tuning so please correct me if there is any wrong info in the notes. Also pardon the english, tried to keep it in as little words as possible so it doesnt look like a long essay. Great video other than not being able to hear what you're saying at certain parts, everything explained really clearly and made easy to understand. Here's all the info in the video put into text: Tires Soft tires always the best Alignment (recommended to leave it at stock except for FWD and RWD) Front toe angle In = takes abit more to start turning (good for RWD) Out = responds better to turning (good for FWD) Front Camber Angle Positive = more stable in straight line Negative = more stable when turning Rear toe angle In = better for RWD to be stable (0.40 and above, way more stable) Out = better turning, rear spins better (less stable) Accel better through hairpins Rear camber angle Positive = more stable on straights Negative = smoother turning (dont have to max) Brakes Braking Force High = Press slightly to brake at max force Low = Need to fully press to brake at max force Brake Bias Front = Helps to setup corner by transferring weight to front (RWD/FWD more stable) Rear = More stable (50% or less for maps with tons of hairpins) for AWD usually 50% is good enough Differential Front/Rear LSD Driving Lock Open = Wheels spin at different speeds (good for stability) Lock = Wheels spin at the same speed (good to get out of corners and to accel) Rear: Open = more stable but understeery Locked = Accel better on straight line but more oversteery on AWD: less front LSD lock = front more stable, easier to understeer on full throttle during mid corner more front LSD lock = more stable during mid corner, easier to oversteer on FWD: Locked = understeery while turning Open = turn better while accelerating on RWD: Open = Much more stable and predictable, accel better out of corners. LSD Braking Lock (how the car behaves while braking) Locked = more stable and understeery while braking Open = more oversteery while braking LSD Preload Low = very loose, easier to spin out and do a 360 High = more understeery and more predictable on RWD: recommended to match the braking lock Gearing Final Drive Short = faster accel, lower top speed Long = slower accel, higher top speed 6th gear better to have Long, to take a longer time to reach max rpm to preserve radiator Damping (how car behaves over bumps) Firm = takes more force to contract Soft = contracts more easily, less stable but needed on more bumpy surfaces Slow Bump Firm = better on smooth surface (tarmac) Soft = better on bumpy (greece/wales/argentina) Fast Bump (controls steep crests) Firm = better for smooth/tarmac (finland) Soft = better for lots of bumps (greece/argentina) Recommended fast bump more firm than soft bump to avoid bottoming out Bump Zone Division (decides if it's fast or slow bump) Fast = better on smooth surfaces with a lot of jumps. Slow = better on rougher surfaces and lesser jumps. Slow Rebound Soft = good on maps like argentina/greece/australia for the car to absorb more bumps. Firm = good in finland/poland, lots of jumps and no bumps. Car will be more stable on smooth surfaces. on RWD: recommended to be softer on the rear for the car to be more stable during bumps. Springs Ride Height High = better for bumpy/jumpy roads. more travel space for the suspension to work. Low = better for smooth surfaces (needs firmer suspension) Anti-Roll Bars (when the car tilts left to right) Firm = better for smooth surfaces. less tilt, car will have stronger reaction to bumps on either side Soft = better for bumpy surfaces, car will absorb the bump by tilting Firmer front = more understeer (more stable and predictable) Firmer rear = more oversteer Spring Rate Firmer front = more understeer (more stable for RWD) Firmer rear = turns more but more unstable (good for FWD)
Thank you for the work you put in. To correct on a few points: on AWD: less front LSD lock = car is more oversteery, easier to ROTATE on full throttle during mid corner more front LSD lock = more stable during mid corner, easier to UNDERSTEER on RWD: Open = Much more stable and predictable, CLOSED = accel better out of corners/straights, OR IN THE EVENT OF A DRIVING WHEEL BEING ON AIR . LSD Braking Lock (how the car behaves while braking) Locked = more stable and understeery while braking Open = more oversteery/LOOSE while braking
Thanks so much for a poper guide! i've been using other people's setups i find online, but i want to learn it myself, it's a big part of the game, and fun i think when you find a good setup yourself ^^
Maybe now i'll be better friends with rwd cars, i have done my custom tunes for a while but they havent been good so ima try again after watching this. One thing your voice is so quiet that with game sound you almost cant hear it Edit: Driving with rwd cars is so so so much better and im more comfortable driving them. This video was so helpful for me.
Ah ah, yeh, sorry about that. I'll probably will be re-doing this video in 4 parts for a better audio and comprehension sake. But if you become better friends with RWD, I hope you keep giving yourself time to experiment and look up how to tune. On e you understand what does what in a car, no matter the game the fundamentals you will have already covered.
For the default car you get for Career mode, the Lancia. Use these 3 settings, this fixed the biggest issues with the car. Dirt maps Braking bias: 82% (front) Front LSD driving lock: 16% Front LSD braking lock: 0% Front LSD Preload: 40.00 N-m The car had braking issues, under high speeds wood veer when breaking but after these settings, it should give you a solid car to practice in the normal career mode. Would understeer when already inside turns and would oversteer while going into turns. These simple settings will make the car have more traction and in turn make it easier to use. Traction is the key, you should always be in control and traction gives you that control. As you understand how to maintain traction during turns and high speeds, the faster you will master this game. The number one rule for turns is to not have to much speed going into it. You have the option to release the gas and glide or use the braves to make sure you go into the turn to be able come out of it successful
You can also max outthe LSD driving lock, as this will help the car pull when cornering. I understand what you mean with the car being loose while braking. The LSD braking lock handles just that. you have it all open. And the more open it is, the more loose the car is while bracking. If you close more the Bracking lock, you can run a more centered brake bias that will help you trail brake.
Thanks m8. Since i recorded it directly from the PS4, I should have created a group so the game audio was lower than my voice. maybe in the future I'll rework it.
I absolutely love racing games and absolutely hate even thinking about trying to tune a car. I just don’t understand it and to be honest, as long as I can handle the car, in ok without tuning.
I tried to put it all into text so I can refer to it when tuning.
Leaving it here for reference and also for anyone who will need it. I'm a newbie at tuning so please correct me if there is any wrong info in the notes. Also pardon the english, tried to keep it in as little words as possible so it doesnt look like a long essay.
Great video other than not being able to hear what you're saying at certain parts, everything explained really clearly and made easy to understand.
Here's all the info in the video put into text:
Tires
Soft tires always the best
Alignment
(recommended to leave it at stock except for FWD and RWD)
Front toe angle
In = takes abit more to start turning
(good for RWD)
Out = responds better to turning
(good for FWD)
Front Camber Angle
Positive = more stable in straight line
Negative = more stable when turning
Rear toe angle
In = better for RWD to be stable (0.40 and above, way more stable)
Out = better turning, rear spins better (less stable)
Accel better through hairpins
Rear camber angle
Positive = more stable on straights
Negative = smoother turning (dont have to max)
Brakes
Braking Force
High = Press slightly to brake at max force
Low = Need to fully press to brake at max force
Brake Bias
Front = Helps to setup corner by transferring weight to front (RWD/FWD more stable)
Rear = More stable (50% or less for maps with tons of hairpins)
for AWD usually 50% is good enough
Differential
Front/Rear LSD Driving Lock
Open = Wheels spin at different speeds (good for stability)
Lock = Wheels spin at the same speed (good to get out of corners and to accel)
Rear:
Open = more stable but understeery
Locked = Accel better on straight line but more oversteery
on AWD:
less front LSD lock = front more stable, easier to understeer on full throttle during mid corner
more front LSD lock = more stable during mid corner, easier to oversteer
on FWD:
Locked = understeery while turning
Open = turn better while accelerating
on RWD:
Open = Much more stable and predictable, accel better out of corners.
LSD Braking Lock (how the car behaves while braking)
Locked = more stable and understeery while braking
Open = more oversteery while braking
LSD Preload
Low = very loose, easier to spin out and do a 360
High = more understeery and more predictable
on RWD: recommended to match the braking lock
Gearing
Final Drive
Short = faster accel, lower top speed
Long = slower accel, higher top speed
6th gear better to have Long, to take a longer time to reach max rpm to preserve radiator
Damping
(how car behaves over bumps)
Firm = takes more force to contract
Soft = contracts more easily, less stable but needed on more bumpy surfaces
Slow Bump
Firm = better on smooth surface (tarmac)
Soft = better on bumpy (greece/wales/argentina)
Fast Bump (controls steep crests)
Firm = better for smooth/tarmac (finland)
Soft = better for lots of bumps (greece/argentina)
Recommended fast bump more firm than soft bump to avoid bottoming out
Bump Zone Division
(decides if it's fast or slow bump)
Fast = better on smooth surfaces with a lot of jumps.
Slow = better on rougher surfaces and lesser jumps.
Slow Rebound
Soft = good on maps like argentina/greece/australia for the car to absorb more bumps.
Firm = good in finland/poland, lots of jumps and no bumps. Car will be more stable on smooth surfaces.
on RWD:
recommended to be softer on the rear for the car to be more stable during bumps.
Springs
Ride Height
High = better for bumpy/jumpy roads. more travel space for the suspension to work.
Low = better for smooth surfaces (needs firmer suspension)
Anti-Roll Bars (when the car tilts left to right)
Firm = better for smooth surfaces. less tilt, car will have stronger reaction to bumps on either side
Soft = better for bumpy surfaces, car will absorb the bump by tilting
Firmer front = more understeer (more stable and predictable)
Firmer rear = more oversteer
Spring Rate
Firmer front = more understeer (more stable for RWD)
Firmer rear = turns more but more unstable (good for FWD)
Thank you for the work you put in.
To correct on a few points:
on AWD:
less front LSD lock = car is more oversteery, easier to ROTATE on full throttle during mid corner
more front LSD lock = more stable during mid corner, easier to UNDERSTEER
on RWD:
Open = Much more stable and predictable,
CLOSED = accel better out of corners/straights, OR IN THE EVENT OF A DRIVING WHEEL BEING ON AIR .
LSD Braking Lock (how the car behaves while braking)
Locked = more stable and understeery while braking
Open = more oversteery/LOOSE while braking
@@Shini055 Thank you! Great guide and I finally understand all the settings
Thank you for your comment I refer back to it a lot
Thanks so much for a poper guide! i've been using other people's setups i find online, but i want to learn it myself, it's a big part of the game, and fun i think when you find a good setup yourself ^^
Thank you for your guide. I'm finally understand how work rebound, and anti-roll bar. Good explanation
Maybe now i'll be better friends with rwd cars, i have done my custom tunes for a while but they havent been good so ima try again after watching this. One thing your voice is so quiet that with game sound you almost cant hear it
Edit: Driving with rwd cars is so so so much better and im more comfortable driving them. This video was so helpful for me.
Ah ah, yeh, sorry about that. I'll probably will be re-doing this video in 4 parts for a better audio and comprehension sake.
But if you become better friends with RWD, I hope you keep giving yourself time to experiment and look up how to tune.
On e you understand what does what in a car, no matter the game the fundamentals you will have already covered.
this video is amazing and helped my understanding a TON. This video is so underated thank you so much!!!!
For the default car you get for Career mode, the Lancia. Use these 3 settings, this fixed the biggest issues with the car.
Dirt maps
Braking bias: 82% (front)
Front LSD driving lock: 16%
Front LSD braking lock: 0%
Front LSD Preload: 40.00 N-m
The car had braking issues, under high speeds wood veer when breaking but after these settings, it should give you a solid car to practice in the normal career mode. Would understeer when already inside turns and would oversteer while going into turns. These simple settings will make the car have more traction and in turn make it easier to use. Traction is the key, you should always be in control and traction gives you that control. As you understand how to maintain traction during turns and high speeds, the faster you will master this game. The number one rule for turns is to not have to much speed going into it. You have the option to release the gas and glide or use the braves to make sure you go into the turn to be able come out of it successful
You can also max outthe LSD driving lock, as this will help the car pull when cornering.
I understand what you mean with the car being loose while braking.
The LSD braking lock handles just that. you have it all open. And the more open it is, the more loose the car is while bracking. If you close more the Bracking lock, you can run a more centered brake bias that will help you trail brake.
Great content. It’s a little hard to hear you though. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks m8. Since i recorded it directly from the PS4, I should have created a group so the game audio was lower than my voice.
maybe in the future I'll rework it.
I absolutely love racing games and absolutely hate even thinking about trying to tune a car. I just don’t understand it and to be honest, as long as I can handle the car, in ok without tuning.
Fair enough mate. But by understanding how to just tune the basics, you might enjoy cars that are too handful on stock
Brilliant guide
great video, thanks for your effort ✌
Aishiteru! ^_^
I can't hear you Samir!!! You're breaking my ears Samir! Triple volume up, triple volume up, listen to me!!
The video is decent but I'm struggling way too much to hear what you're saying so I'm not finishing this
Valid feedback, mate.
I've been very lazy to redo it.
Cheers
@@Shini055fair enough. Just letting you know
thanks bro
Verry helpful
Is the tuning same for dirt rally 1?
@@RoanPhil yes, the thought process and physic laws are the same. You can even try it in other games
@@Shini055Don't you dare try these tips in other games.
@@skwaab why not? I gave a general explanation of what things do
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Is your mic in the next neighborhood FFS speak up