@Build it Basement. 6:15. You are talking about the 1213 board for the 2 part main pcb where the probe is connected and you have a cut trace with a wire to jump. The BigTreeTech Octopus Pro allows you to change the voltage for the probe. 5V, 12V, or 24V. You'll find the information on page 17 of the manual. It also doesn't require the BAT diode
@@BuildItBasement take your time my man. I ain’t in no rush. I’m fixing to start my Trident 250 build, and posting build videos. But I’m not gonna rush this project. Building a 3D printer from scratch, and doing build videos…that’s a big undertaking.
Thanks again for doing this series! PIF parts coming in early next week and then I'm going to try and catch up with where you are in your build. I'm most likely going to wait for the new TAP 24v to come out. Might take a while but I think it will be worth the wait. Looking forward to the next video! BTW I want to make a plasma cutting table. That's a project for another year though. Take care.
I'm always here to get feedback! Let me know if you catch anything major, that I don't correct. Anything you have difficulty with is good to know so I can help ensure others don't make the same mistakes I/we do/did!
I didn't have much luck with the flux pen. I might try a flux syringe. On the PCB where you converted it to 5 volts for the klicky. You said there "is a trace that's been cut" is that something we had to cut? or is it cut from the factory? Basically who cut it?
Oscar - Yes It was a trace I cut in a prior video. I cut the trace that provide 24V to that pin and jumped a wire to a 5V source on that board. I love my flux pen! What was the issue you ran it to? Keep in mind that you may also be able to use the 24v on the board with the new version (4/2023) Tap probe PCB.
@@BuildItBasement The pen wouldn't flow, then when I pushed it would sometimes flow too much. I couldn't direct it right where I wanted. And can't tell just by looking if the problem is because it's empty or low.
I found a cam that has the same specs as the 3do, but the ribbon cable is 150mm instead of 250mm like the 3do. Will the shorter cable be enough to make it to the nozzle cam PCB?
Depends - Great answer right? you can mount the PCB for the camera in a few different places. I don't believe you'd quite make it to where I placed mine - but you could easily make it to the original mod that the PCB on the side of the SB Hotend fan area.
There should be three pins on the daughter board. 5V G and S (signal). I believe it's near the center. Let me know if you need more. Make sure you DONT run 24v to your neos
@@maxdolski904 Not too warm for the PCB. But - it depends on hard you're going to push the printer. There is now a mod that mounts the PCB under the CW cover: www.printables.com/en/model/402744-stealthburner-toolhead-board-cover-with-integrated
Not sure aboput the cover not closing - maybe you have a wire in the way? There are (2) versions of the cover, one for a PCB and one w/o. As for the wiring please look here and let me knwo if it helps? wiki.kb-3d.com/en/home/linneo/voron/PCBs/new-TAP
BO, a little lost. A. the cover doesnt close completely close and B. I am struggling to figure out the tap wiring part because I dont have blue/black/Red, and mine are out of order. So struggling to figure out if I am wiring this TAP incorrectly or if I am about to blow my stuff up. I am showing where it only connects 2 cables to the probe jst and the red is soldered to the 5v and I dont see where you did that on the pins.
The GND is global to the board. The signal wire and the 5V are specific. Since you cut the trave to that pin you know which is 5V, the other two (if you look VERY close) should be labled on the board. This all assumes you are using a modified 24V TAP board for 5V. If you are using a new version, which I believe has red/orange/black wires you don't need to modify the board as 24V will work fine. You do need to modify it by solder jumping to the 5V or 24V pad.
@@ReneWilsonSC About mid-way down on this page you can see that the 2.1 cersion TAP board has the following pin out: +, Signal, Ground - top to bottom. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap
@Build it Basement. 6:15. You are talking about the 1213 board for the 2 part main pcb where the probe is connected and you have a cut trace with a wire to jump. The BigTreeTech Octopus Pro allows you to change the voltage for the probe. 5V, 12V, or 24V. You'll find the information on page 17 of the manual. It also doesn't require the BAT diode
Good to know. Always looking for good tips! Thanks! I'll make mention when I'm doing some final electronics wiring.
GREAT WORK I remixed this for the ender 3 neo v2 it`s a graet printer right out of the box and with the mods its a beast perfect for the money
I'm a cheap date. LOL Perfect for the money! Hey - glad you got some use out of it!
Thanks!
Just a thanks would suffice - but I do appreciate the SUPER!
Good job! Keep ‘em coming. I’m really enjoying the content.
I should be back on track shortly! I'm done with being sick...and tired. I expect maybe two videos before the beginning of next week! THANKS!!
@@BuildItBasement take your time my man. I ain’t in no rush.
I’m fixing to start my Trident 250 build, and posting build videos. But I’m not gonna rush this project.
Building a 3D printer from scratch, and doing build videos…that’s a big undertaking.
After this - I think I want to build a multi-tool head CNC. Laser/router. We'll see!
Yes amazing series keep them coming!
Thanks Brad
Thanks again for doing this series! PIF parts coming in early next week and then I'm going to try and catch up with where you are in your build. I'm most likely going to wait for the new TAP 24v to come out. Might take a while but I think it will be worth the wait. Looking forward to the next video! BTW I want to make a plasma cutting table. That's a project for another year though. Take care.
PIF folks are great. I'll talk to you soon!
Good luck with your build! There are plenty of things you can start building as you wait for the new 24v Optotap sensor pcb to be released.
@@SK3D20 I'm not waiting, covered to 5v. Full speed ahead!
@@BuildItBasement I should of marked the post to the poster of the reply. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
Another great video! I see you make the same mistakes I do.
I'm always here to get feedback! Let me know if you catch anything major, that I don't correct. Anything you have difficulty with is good to know so I can help ensure others don't make the same mistakes I/we do/did!
great work!
Thanks man - she is starting to look great. Rough video my throat was on fire.
I didn't have much luck with the flux pen. I might try a flux syringe. On the PCB where you converted it to 5 volts for the klicky. You said there "is a trace that's been cut" is that something we had to cut? or is it cut from the factory? Basically who cut it?
Oscar - Yes It was a trace I cut in a prior video. I cut the trace that provide 24V to that pin and jumped a wire to a 5V source on that board. I love my flux pen! What was the issue you ran it to? Keep in mind that you may also be able to use the 24v on the board with the new version (4/2023) Tap probe PCB.
@@BuildItBasement The pen wouldn't flow, then when I pushed it would sometimes flow too much. I couldn't direct it right where I wanted. And can't tell just by looking if the problem is because it's empty or low.
@@oscarvogel2140 Interesting - I've had the same flux pen for about 15years! amzn.to/3zBfKRr
I found a cam that has the same specs as the 3do, but the ribbon cable is 150mm instead of 250mm like the 3do. Will the shorter cable be enough to make it to the nozzle cam PCB?
Depends - Great answer right? you can mount the PCB for the camera in a few different places. I don't believe you'd quite make it to where I placed mine - but you could easily make it to the original mod that the PCB on the side of the SB Hotend fan area.
@@BuildItBasement thanks sir!
Where do we solder the rainbow barf to on the two piece toolhead pcb?
There should be three pins on the daughter board. 5V G and S (signal). I believe it's near the center. Let me know if you need more. Make sure you DONT run 24v to your neos
@@BuildItBasement can just those 3 pins individually control the nozzle lights and the logo?
@@maxdolski904 YES! The LEDs are adressable. Great question. I assume your RB came with the front and two bottom neos attached?
Yep. I’m also thinking of doing the 3DO nozzle camera. I saw your pcb was mounted on the back of the extruder motor. How hot does that motor get?
@@maxdolski904 Not too warm for the PCB. But - it depends on hard you're going to push the printer. There is now a mod that mounts the PCB under the CW cover: www.printables.com/en/model/402744-stealthburner-toolhead-board-cover-with-integrated
Not sure aboput the cover not closing - maybe you have a wire in the way? There are (2) versions of the cover, one for a PCB and one w/o. As for the wiring please look here and let me knwo if it helps? wiki.kb-3d.com/en/home/linneo/voron/PCBs/new-TAP
BO, a little lost. A. the cover doesnt close completely close and B. I am struggling to figure out the tap wiring part because I dont have blue/black/Red, and mine are out of order. So struggling to figure out if I am wiring this TAP incorrectly or if I am about to blow my stuff up. I am showing where it only connects 2 cables to the probe jst and the red is soldered to the 5v and I dont see where you did that on the pins.
Note the two ways in the link...
@@BuildItBasement, so cut the trace, do I now plug the tap in the FS instead of the Probe port now?
@@ReneWilsonSC That is correct!
The GND is global to the board. The signal wire and the 5V are specific. Since you cut the trave to that pin you know which is 5V, the other two (if you look VERY close) should be labled on the board. This all assumes you are using a modified 24V TAP board for 5V. If you are using a new version, which I believe has red/orange/black wires you don't need to modify the board as 24V will work fine. You do need to modify it by solder jumping to the 5V or 24V pad.
@@ReneWilsonSC About mid-way down on this page you can see that the 2.1 cersion TAP board has the following pin out: +, Signal, Ground - top to bottom. github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Tap/tree/main/OptoTap