Thanks for the video the core is Split, top half is passenger side, bottom is drivers side, when core plugs up, you loose the bottom, which is the driver's side heat
I’m planning on doing this to mine, but I’m was unsure if any extra coolant or product needs to be added after the flush. Any information would be appreciated.
@@raymondfigueroa6126 Yes, you'll have to make sure you have coolant on hand to refill. We blew out all the water after the final flush (after washing out the CLR stuff) so we filled up the reservoir, then ran the engine and topped it off. Hope it helps.
thanks for the information, the dealer said I needed a new heater core for about 1,300 dollars, about an hour and 40 dollars for some fittings, some hose, and antifreeze, problem solved.
100 % worked my truck wasn’t blowing hot at all I took the hoses off and let the water flow cleaned the heater core out now she’s blowing heat at 150 degrees
This is exactly what I was looking for. I’ve been not getting much heat for a couple years now. I paid to have my cooling system flushed last spring. I had to drain it to change out the actuator on my turbo charger. It came out looking like mud. Assholes. But I wanna also do the heater core separate. Thank you very much.
Awesome video. I tried this today and it works perfect. However I didn’t need to add any CLR. I think my issue was probably an air pocket that wasn’t efficiently letting the coolant do it’s thing. Thanks again! Saved a boat load of money!
Thank you very much my 2015 Ram 3500 is at the dealership and they told me that I needed a new heater core said it was clogged up and wanting to charge me $3200 .didn't once quote me to flush it out
A little tip for rubber hoses. If you're trying to put a fitting in a rubber hose and it's too tight spray parts cleaner or contact cleaner on the inside of the hose and quickly insert the fitting. Works like a charm. Also another guy posted he had a water pump failure after using CLR on two separate occasions.
the CLR should have nearly zero impact on the actual cooling system including water pump, thermostat, or radiator, if properly flushed from the heater core.
Our deal quoted 3000 for a heater core, I think they are the ones that put wrong coolant after lifter job. I flushed and used clr last week and have heat again finally. This works for sure
Long story short i had a leaking heater core on my 1984 GM european car (opel Monza) but very very very very very very minimal,like i lost a cola can (12ounce how u call it in the USA) ever 3 weeks to a month but it leaked from the heater core so i brought that K-seal stuff and poored it directly in the heater core,resulting no more heat the day after i poored it in (before it was very poor) and i flushed it just as u did in the video a few days back,and u have no idea how brown the water was,wenn flushed reverse it really released alot of gunk and now my heater is hotter then the car ever was in my possesion and my passenger floor is dry........But we will find that out in a while but i have good hope. Replacing the heater core is like a full day work as its hidden behind the dashbord and u need to take apart alot of old brittle plastic resulting in we all know what........alot of anger and hate...
Thanks , mine was working on right side & no heat on left side, but now it’s not as hot on right side , I’m gonna try this , mine is a 2020 model with 300,000 miles
Cummins makes two flush products that are more effective. Using a pressurized flush nozzle is also needed so that you can lift the sediment out of the heater core. For the Cummins, it's residual casting sand that clogs the core the most. After thorough forward and reverse flush with jetted water, we use the Cummin flush and a recirculating pump to add it to the core. After force the flush water out, and filled with the flush, shut the pump down and let it sit for an hour. Then use the recirculating pump and cycle it through for 30 minutes. Repeat flush process and then displace water with Mopar coolant, reassemble, burb, and top off. Works on 8 out of 10 cases.
@stevenswenson1792 it's not a Cummins pump, but the Fleetguard flush (Restore) cycled through by any recirculating pump that you can put inline. I have assembled one using an inexpensive pump with hose barbs to accept heater hose. I fill a clean pail with Restore and drop in the pump intake line. The pump output is then attached to the heater core input via long length of hose. The heater core outlet gets a long hose that first goes into a catch can. I turn on the pump and let it deliver Restore to the core and displace flush water into the catch can - about a half-gallon worth. I then put the outlet hose into the pail of Restore solution and let in recirculate about 5 minutes and shut it down and let the solution sit and do its thing. When time is up, heater core outlet hose back to a catch can while I pump all remaining Restore solution from pail into core and then let it sit in the core again for less time. Then you can use the pump to deliver fresh rinse water - I personally rinse in both directions with fresh water, about 5 gallons each way. I then pump a gallon of ready-mixed Mopar antifreeze through to flush the tap water out and leave the core full of proper ratio antifreeze and I don't have to fight air when buttoning up and topping the system. You can get very cheap recirculating pumps on Amazon. Just watch that they're not too high powered.
hello Mrs mechanic. I have a 2017 dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 with a 6.7liter as well and my Heater failed and does not blow out heat either. I'm gonna try what you demonstrated in your video flushing out my Heater core as well. I might as well change the thermostat after I do that flush you did with the garden hose on the flow in and flow out pipes. the CLR chemical part kind of scares me but I will try it anyway. Thanks for the cool tip. 👍🏻
Just an FYI, Dodge dealer today quoted a heater core replacement at $2500 on a 2016 6.7, ridiculous pricing with labor rate. CLR time as I was thinking the same thing and will give it a shot.
Took my 2014 dodge Cummings to AMIGO dodge in Gallup New Mexico a few days ago they quoted me $2300 to replace the heater core and thermostat. The service manager told me they don’t do flushes only replacements. Also CarShield is a waste of money they don’t cover water heater replacement.
I’m planning on doing this to mine, but I’m was unsure if any extra coolant or product needs to be added after the flush. Any information would be appreciated.
Doesn't need to be running to flush the heater core. Besides it would dump all the coolant out of the block while running and over heat unless you loop a hose between the open connections.
So curious why….. hear me out for a few sentences. My last truck was a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0 gas engine. I purchased it new and that truck never had anything opened up on the motor but when it became 5 years old o started to have to flush the heater core every winter for partial plugged. Luke warm air would only come out. I tried to flush the motor coolant several times, while heater core was disconnected. Tho the problem persisted. No I purchased a 2016 ram 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins and that truck got water pump replaced at about 1 year old for recall. Ever since then I’ve had to do the exact same thing to it as I use to do to the Chevy. On the ram I could see the dealership (stealership) get something into the coolant jackets when they replaced the water pump but the Chevy was never opened up. I’m not sure. I have this feeling it being caused by todays coolant fluids cheap metals and plastics. I just did the heater core flush this morning again and while doing it I began contemplating sticking at oil filter inline with the heater core hoses to filter the coolant and could change filter once a year and top off fluid. Anyways sorry for the rant. I just was looking for heater core flush videos to see if anyone is doing something different than I have been. Thanks for your video.
i got a heated shop with no water, and it's -20 so doing it outside is not an option. any suggestions? had heater core replaced last winter as temps were dangerously low and had a time crunch, but i'm certainly not bringing this stupid thing in twice in two winters...
Were you noticing the diminished heat out of both sides of the climate control? Mine seems to be more on the driver side, passenger is still good and hot. I have a 2017 cummins 2500. I see a couple people commented they have the same truck with the same issue. I will be trying this as well. hopefully I get a the same great results.
Yes, turn the heat off for awhile then back on you will notice a slight bit of heat for a few seconds then it goes away. That’s how I diagnosed for sure it being the heater core
I have 2017 RAM 2500, drivers side low heat. Flush works every time. Have to do it 2x every year though. Supposedly has to do with how RAM mounted the heater core. Sediment sits in bottom which feeds the drivers side heat.
Buddy of mine just got quoted $3000 by the dealer. Replace core, overflow tank and level senson...which is working. They said they have to evaluate the ac system. Screw them.
You’re an angel! 🙏🏽 I thought it was my blend door, dealer wanted Ukraine money to replace mine! 😂
Thanks for the video
the core is Split, top half is passenger side, bottom is drivers side, when core plugs up, you loose the bottom, which is the driver's side heat
Thank you for the walk through bud! Dealer wanted way too much to even clean the heater core out so this video saved me a bunch! Thanks again!
Worked perfectly. Heat and Air both blow better than they have in 6 years. Thank you.
We just finished performing this flush on our 2017 Ram 2500. Worked like a charm. Thanks so much for such a informative video.
I’m planning on doing this to mine, but I’m was unsure if any extra coolant or product needs to be added after the flush. Any information would be appreciated.
@@raymondfigueroa6126 Yes, you'll have to make sure you have coolant on hand to refill. We blew out all the water after the final flush (after washing out the CLR stuff) so we filled up the reservoir, then ran the engine and topped it off. Hope it helps.
@@katherinemidyette456about how much coolant did you end up having to replace?
About 1/2 gallon. It didn't drain the radiator so just what was in the core and lines.
thanks for the information, the dealer said I needed a new heater core for about 1,300 dollars, about an hour and 40 dollars for some fittings, some hose, and antifreeze, problem solved.
100 % worked my truck wasn’t blowing hot at all I took the hoses off and let the water flow cleaned the heater core out now she’s blowing heat at 150 degrees
This is exactly what I was looking for. I’ve been not getting much heat for a couple years now. I paid to have my cooling system flushed last spring. I had to drain it to change out the actuator on my turbo charger. It came out looking like mud. Assholes. But I wanna also do the heater core separate. Thank you very much.
Awesome video. I tried this today and it works perfect. However I didn’t need to add any CLR. I think my issue was probably an air pocket that wasn’t efficiently letting the coolant do it’s thing. Thanks again! Saved a boat load of money!
You just used water for your flush??
Thanks for the video. 18 just like it. Dealer said 500 bucks to flush. 2K to fully replace!
Thank you very much my 2015 Ram 3500 is at the dealership and they told me that I needed a new heater core said it was clogged up and wanting to charge me $3200 .didn't once quote me to flush it out
You rock man. Most shops would just do the flush with water only.
Holy cow!!! I was also having the same issue.... kept getting worse... saw this video... did it and it fixed it.... 😊 thanks for posting this video
did it work
Did it really work? I need to do this if so!
A little tip for rubber hoses. If you're trying to put a fitting in a rubber hose and it's too tight spray parts cleaner or contact cleaner on the inside of the hose and quickly insert the fitting. Works like a charm.
Also another guy posted he had a water pump failure after using CLR on two separate occasions.
the CLR should have nearly zero impact on the actual cooling system including water pump, thermostat, or radiator, if properly flushed from the heater core.
I did the same on my 2015 ram 2500 6.4 tradesman 4x4 crew 85k milage worked perfect
Our deal quoted 3000 for a heater core, I think they are the ones that put wrong coolant after lifter job. I flushed and used clr last week and have heat again finally. This works for sure
I love it that he talks about toxic antifreeze and yet his engine is missing a few parts. HaHa
Long story short i had a leaking heater core on my 1984 GM european car (opel Monza) but very very very very very very minimal,like i lost a cola can (12ounce how u call it in the USA) ever 3 weeks to a month but it leaked from the heater core so i brought that K-seal stuff and poored it directly in the heater core,resulting no more heat the day after i poored it in (before it was very poor) and i flushed it just as u did in the video a few days back,and u have no idea how brown the water was,wenn flushed reverse it really released alot of gunk and now my heater is hotter then the car ever was in my possesion and my passenger floor is dry........But we will find that out in a while but i have good hope.
Replacing the heater core is like a full day work as its hidden behind the dashbord and u need to take apart alot of old brittle plastic resulting in we all know what........alot of anger and hate...
Thanks , mine was working on right side & no heat on left side, but now it’s not as hot on right side , I’m gonna try this , mine is a 2020 model with 300,000 miles
On my Audi I used a bucket of detergent and a fountain pump to recirculate for a day or so. Worked like a charm.
Thank you for this!! This is exactly what I was looking for.
Cummins makes two flush products that are more effective. Using a pressurized flush nozzle is also needed so that you can lift the sediment out of the heater core. For the Cummins, it's residual casting sand that clogs the core the most. After thorough forward and reverse flush with jetted water, we use the Cummin flush and a recirculating pump to add it to the core. After force the flush water out, and filled with the flush, shut the pump down and let it sit for an hour. Then use the recirculating pump and cycle it through for 30 minutes. Repeat flush process and then displace water with Mopar coolant, reassemble, burb, and top off. Works on 8 out of 10 cases.
What is the part number for the Cummins Recirculating Pump you mentioned?
@stevenswenson1792 it's not a Cummins pump, but the Fleetguard flush (Restore) cycled through by any recirculating pump that you can put inline. I have assembled one using an inexpensive pump with hose barbs to accept heater hose. I fill a clean pail with Restore and drop in the pump intake line. The pump output is then attached to the heater core input via long length of hose. The heater core outlet gets a long hose that first goes into a catch can. I turn on the pump and let it deliver Restore to the core and displace flush water into the catch can - about a half-gallon worth. I then put the outlet hose into the pail of Restore solution and let in recirculate about 5 minutes and shut it down and let the solution sit and do its thing. When time is up, heater core outlet hose back to a catch can while I pump all remaining Restore solution from pail into core and then let it sit in the core again for less time. Then you can use the pump to deliver fresh rinse water - I personally rinse in both directions with fresh water, about 5 gallons each way. I then pump a gallon of ready-mixed Mopar antifreeze through to flush the tap water out and leave the core full of proper ratio antifreeze and I don't have to fight air when buttoning up and topping the system. You can get very cheap recirculating pumps on Amazon. Just watch that they're not too high powered.
Took my 2017 in for same issue they quoted me 1900.00 to replace core. Going to try this fix this weekend thanks!
Having the same issue. About to do it myself
I have a 2017 Dodge ram 2500 and I have hot air again 🙏 thank you
Flushing mine out for an hr and still getting crap out of it. I'm going to prepare for a replacement this summer. This is absurd.
This worked great! Saved me a ton of 💰
Thank you!!!
My dealer said they need to replace the heater core for $3,800. Did some research and got a local shop to flush it for $250. Working so far...
hello Mrs mechanic. I have a 2017 dodge 2500 Laramie 4x4 with a 6.7liter as well and my Heater failed and does not blow out heat either. I'm gonna try what you demonstrated in your video flushing out my Heater core as well. I might as well change the thermostat after I do that flush you did with the garden hose on the flow in and flow out pipes. the CLR chemical part kind of scares me but I will try it anyway. Thanks for the cool tip. 👍🏻
My mechanic wants $1'300 for a new heater core😢 so I'm gonna flush my system out again. This will be the 4th time in 2 yrs. Thanks
Awesome how-to video dude! 👍👍🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🤘🏻🤘🏻
Worked perfect on my ram 2500 thank you
Just an FYI, Dodge dealer today quoted a heater core replacement at $2500 on a 2016 6.7, ridiculous pricing with labor rate. CLR time as I was thinking the same thing and will give it a shot.
Thank you! I'm going to try after getting a $3500 est from my local Dodge/Ram dealer.
Most shops want to make All they can from the customers
Took my 2014 dodge Cummings to AMIGO dodge in Gallup New Mexico a few days ago they quoted me $2300 to replace the heater core and thermostat. The service manager told me they don’t do flushes only replacements. Also CarShield is a waste of money they don’t cover water heater replacement.
Which hose is the heater inlet?
Which hose is the heater return?
I’m planning on doing this to mine, but I’m was unsure if any extra coolant or product needs to be added after the flush. Any information would be appreciated.
Well my heat has been gradually getting colder, yesterday it was blowing cool, no heat at all. Guess i'll give this a shot
Thanks, you just saved me 2500
After you flush the CLR out and hook hoses back up do you top off the coolant in the reservoir?
Why didnt you flush the radiator. If will get clogged up again from the old fluid in the radiator
How many shops would use CLR?? 😅😂
My actuator is also meat up will that also be an issue with the heater not working
Good video. Question: Was engine running while you did the flush?
Doesn't need to be running to flush the heater core. Besides it would dump all the coolant out of the block while running and over heat unless you loop a hose between the open connections.
So curious why….. hear me out for a few sentences. My last truck was a Chevy 2500 with the 6.0 gas engine. I purchased it new and that truck never had anything opened up on the motor but when it became 5 years old o started to have to flush the heater core every winter for partial plugged. Luke warm air would only come out. I tried to flush the motor coolant several times, while heater core was disconnected. Tho the problem persisted. No I purchased a 2016 ram 2500 with the 6.7 Cummins and that truck got water pump replaced at about 1 year old for recall. Ever since then I’ve had to do the exact same thing to it as I use to do to the Chevy. On the ram I could see the dealership (stealership) get something into the coolant jackets when they replaced the water pump but the Chevy was never opened up. I’m not sure. I have this feeling it being caused by todays coolant fluids cheap metals and plastics. I just did the heater core flush this morning again and while doing it I began contemplating sticking at oil filter inline with the heater core hoses to filter the coolant and could change filter once a year and top off fluid. Anyways sorry for the rant. I just was looking for heater core flush videos to see if anyone is doing something different than I have been. Thanks for your video.
Most large commercial trucks have a coolant filter already installed. You could probably retrofit one.
@@deanstoops26 yes this is what I’ve been looking into. Thanks
The sop I took mine to wouldn't quote me for a flush, just a replacement.
Do have to do anything other than add antifreeze when you get done?
I won’t inject water on my hoses right now ! Is freezing 🥶 here .. 😩
i got a heated shop with no water, and it's -20 so doing it outside is not an option. any suggestions? had heater core replaced last winter as temps were dangerously low and had a time crunch, but i'm certainly not bringing this stupid thing in twice in two winters...
What is the next step is this doesn’t work?
Will it work on a 2014
Nice trick!
No any mobile mechanics in the north Atlanta GA area who does this ?
nice i just made a b8.5 flush video
Do you have a link for that hose adapter?
You can get one at Lowes.
Need the same like what size is it
They will charge you for the replacement but only flush it out. That makes money. There is no such thing as an honest repair shop.😂😂😂😂😂
Were you noticing the diminished heat out of both sides of the climate control? Mine seems to be more on the driver side, passenger is still good and hot. I have a 2017 cummins 2500. I see a couple people commented they have the same truck with the same issue. I will be trying this as well. hopefully I get a the same great results.
Yes, turn the heat off for awhile then back on you will notice a slight bit of heat for a few seconds then it goes away. That’s how I diagnosed for sure it being the heater core
I have 2017 RAM 2500, drivers side low heat. Flush works every time. Have to do it 2x every year though. Supposedly has to do with how RAM mounted the heater core. Sediment sits in bottom which feeds the drivers side heat.
@@thejustinwise5198 much appreciated. I am doing a flush this week.
I've flushed my once for this issue, going to do again today as I had no heat today when I tested it
Dealer want 500 + to flush my 2015 with 120,000 mi
Buddy of mine just got quoted $3000 by the dealer. Replace core, overflow tank and level senson...which is working. They said they have to evaluate the ac system. Screw them.
I flushed mine back and forth for over an hour and got a lot out. Just when you think it's over, keep flushing.