Holy shit! "Parden my French" This is worth a try on 2013 Wrangler. Same kind of crap going on with the heat. I was thinking i need a new heater core but heck this is worth a try first. Thanks!!
I would like to do this on my '16 Cummins. However, should i be concerned about the rest of the coolant system being plugged? If i flush the rest of the system am i just going to plug the heater core again with more contaminants? Definitely switching to a different coolant after I flush.
I have a 2009 Dodge RAM 1500 I got back in August of 2009. I did my first cooling system flush in May of 2014. I switched to the Prestone 50/50 antifreeze. Had a new heater core installed in July of 2017 when I got my AC evaporator core replaced during the HVAC rebuild on my truck when the AC failed. I did my second cooling system flush on May of 2019. I am set to do another one this year when it gets warmer. I've done a coolant flush every five years even with prestone 50/50. It never hurts. I've had great heat on both sides of the truck because of it. As long as you do flushes and replace heater core when necessary, you should never have to have problems with no heat or one sided heat. At least I didn't. Great video. Is your heat still working?
The passenger side was hot as hell ice cold on the driver-side But. The air boxes are the same just a blend door in them. But no i do not have duel zone. But the drivers side get the air from the bottom of the heater core that always plugs first i delt with this for three years till the pass side started getting cold lol
Man this was a helpful and encouraging video. I have a 2013 2500 with the 5.7 and recently I only have good (ish) heat on the passenger side and luke warm heat on the drivers side. I understand that the bottom of the core (which would get clogged first) supplies the driver's side heat. If I am correct, your steps were 1. Use a garden hose to flush the coolant out of the core 2. Attach hoses to the inlet and outlet of the core 3. Have two buckets, one with each hose going into them 4. Use the drill pump to transfer water from one bucket to the other as it passes through the core 5. Fill the core with CLR and let it sit for an hour or so 6. Pass water and CLR through the core both ways using the drill pump? 7. Attach the hose and flush and back flush the core until you have nothing but clean water coming out My question is, am I correct in these steps? And when you were done, how did you get all of the air out of the system and replace the collant in the core? Really trying to not take the dash apart and replace the core. Thanks for the video and thte help.
Yes you can also use your garden hose to push back and forth as i did as well at the start and you could see very low flow on full blast. As for coolant air jiat add coolant back to your tank as if you would if replacing a rad. Just wont take as much
Yea its very common problem as why i made the vid and i have replaced so many cores and its a real shitty job for a 40 dollar part and yes its been threw months awesome heat still
Remember that it’s not just in your heater coil. Fleet guard makes a great product. You drain your coolant. Add and top with distilled water. It will eat a ton of the crap out and flush you entire system.
@@TheHyde8875 on the fleet guard you have a mix ratio. drain your coolant. Fill with the mix. drive up to op temp for the prescribed time. then flush a few times with regular water till you see no more crap/detergent. then you do a final wash with distilled to ensure you have all the reg water/detergent out then fill back with coolant. so you need to be prepared to collect 2/3 times the amount of liquid. the final fresh water and distilled should be so diluted you could just let those steps drain to the ground.
I grab a gallon maybe use half its all depends on how plugged it is. The last time i did my truck. It was not that bad. But after you let it sit in it for 30 mins lots of crap is going to come out with it. And you dont want to pump it back in to do it the second time. So like i did let it sis flush it back and forth with water then pump some more and let it sis repeat
ended up having to do it twice. Had zero heat on either side of my truck. I don’t think I did it long enough the first time and had about 40% heat. Heat is working amazing now. While I was flushing the system, I could not stop getting the little flakes. I did it for over three hours. After doing it the first time the day before yesterday I had the coolant system flushed completely. Should I do it again?
I will have to look and see the sizes but i got the parts i screwed the hoses from auto zone the were just coolant bleed deals i think 3/4 the drill pump i got from ace hardware and the crl. And the plugs i put on the t fittings were just coolant caps from the help section at autozone as well
They are conceited coolant flush t's. But i cap the one side off as i was not flushing the whole system i for the life of me could not remember the name just now www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/radiator-flush-tools/p/dorman-help-5-8in-radiator-flush-tee/85211_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:19489353553&&CATARGETID=120054150001290089&CADevice=m&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVumXjvpS-MHi76gSICwWPaEj&gclid=CjwKCAiA75itBhA6EiwAkho9e_HdStVY1PiTTX1QKP9rXtUYCIngCjHM-edJu6WHwELPriO6WriwWxoCp78QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Orange and green mixed turns to a gel when you flushed the core at first it was green. Is the cell safe for the radiator? Parts man told me to use orange and I had green in it but it calls for the yellow. I bet I’ll read my owners manual next time
Its 800 bucks but heres the link www.ebay.com/itm/176006453336?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7mtk1qdhqts&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tKcFeJBXRha&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Has been terrible. Below 0 temps, have a scraper inside to clear windshield to see. This year I put a propane camp stove in the cab to add heat. Backflush looks like it would be safer... I'll get to it!
@@BruceDavis2301 well its defiantly a cheeper fix if it works replacing them in these trucks is very labor intensive and can be up words of 1500dollars to do
How are you guys ending up with mineral deposits in your cooling system? Are you only using concentrated antifreeze and distilled water or premixed antifreeze? If so, you should never have these issues. The only way this should occur is if you introduce tap water into your system during your flushes or dilutions. In over 30 years I’ve never seen this before on my vehicles, foreign or domestic (mopar included).
@ there’s nothing innately different about the heater core than the rest of your cooling system, especially on more modern vehicles, that make them any more susceptible to corrosion or blockage as long as the system is maintained properly. Use of the proper/compatible antifreeze, zero tap water, removing all air from the system upon fluid changes, etc, all ensure proper performance. The only way the aluminum can corrode is by contaminants entering the system through impurities in coolants, degradation of the inhibitors or use of incorrect antifreeze (both resulting in corrosion within the system), oil in the antifreeze (sludge), or allowing other products or foreign substances to be added into the coolant. These newer coolants realistically remain stable for up to 10 years. I just changed my 17 ram 1500 with 83k with original coolant, and ph tested it after draining it. It was still perfect. And zero corrosion after running a cleaner solution with distilled water in for a week. There was a slight pink color to it from the remainder of the coolant in the system, but zero rust, minerals, nothing. Another quick pure distilled water fill, run, bleed, and dump, and then fill with the real stuff again. And yes, I live in the upper Midwest where we run the heat on high half the year, and the ac the other half.
I used radiator flush and a whole can of brake clean. We have 12 2018 ram 3500. 6 of them have no heat. Also changing the core does not stop it from plugging again. So flushing might become a yearly thing
I think technology has been spying on me... your video popped up right after I ordered stuff for this off Amazon. I got the same idea after trying to just do a manual backflush with a hose. very minimal results. But... now it's January & it's below zero, so I needed something I could do inside the garage without a garden hose... So I ordered a small 12volt pump that just hooks to the truck battery & ordered a gallon of a Special type of CLR not normally found in stores... It's called CLR Professional Radiator flush & cleaner.. It's almost $40 for a gallon. I ordered mine from Grainger industrial supply. ordered some 5/8 double male barbed hose connectors & some heater hose to connect from the core hoses over the side of the truck to 5 gallon buckets on the floor.... then just let the pump keep recirculating the CLR & let the flow & chemicals try to break it all down. then replace the CLR with fresh water & flush out the CLR well... Because tap water has all sorts of stuff in it.... I bought a couple gallons of pure distilled water for the final rinse so less chance of anything from the tap water later....then blow it out with compressed air to empty the heater core.... then reconnect & refill with Fresh OAT antifreeze (what my Ram calls for) *important note... OAT antifreeze is NOT the same as GOAT.... they CANNOT be mixed...at all... they will gel up & plug the core... just like you wiped off the bucket... ya hafta be sure you use the right stuff & Don't mix em... regardless what some say... they will chemically gel up over time & may never be able to be flushed out.
When i did this nothing had ever been changed it was all still factory what i wiped out was calcium from the water mixed with the coolant from the factory it drys up to a powder
I ended up having to do it twice. Had zero heat on either side of my truck. Heat is working amazing now. While I was flushing the system, I could not stop getting the little flakes. I did it for over three hours going forward and reverse. It wasn’t a crazy amount, but it wouldn’t stop. I just hooked it all back up. I did a coolant system flush after the first round. Should I do another coolant system flush?
What its at exactly 2:13 in the video that its hooked to ........ What do you mean what its hooked up to. Do you mean the heater core lines. The two hoses that go to the heater core the only ones that go to it? Thats kinda a given that you hook the hoses to the heater core? Did not know it was bullshit. If flushing the heater core. You hook your hoses to the heater core ok.. the two that from the fire wall..... other than that what else you looking to hook to ??
@@TheRogueOnes The video was definitely detailed enough. Anyone that can not follow what you showed in this video should just take their truck to a shop. Flushing a heater core is not rocket science and you showed everything needed and where to hook the hoses up to the heater core. At the end showing what you did worked and fixed the issue is a welcomed bonus. Nice job.
@@aholmes447 thank you after his comment i went back to rewatch the vid again and was like its right there even put my hands on the hoses in the vid and was like wtf is this dude talking about
True believer over here you just saved me a grand , my 18 was crap for the last two years , now it’s cooking. Much appreciated
Awesome good to hear mine is still blowing nice and. Hot as well !!
Holy shit! "Parden my French" This is worth a try on 2013 Wrangler. Same kind of crap going on with the heat. I was thinking i need a new heater core but heck this is worth a try first. Thanks!!
Its deff worth a try i have done lots of wrangler heater cores not as bad as the tam but still suck to do
Great video!! Thank you
@@Americas450R no problem happy it helped ya
Lamb of god 🤘
Lol i was like what ? Then oh yeah my radio lol
Well done. And probably both a bit cheaper and safer than a flush gun (like the OTC that seems common). 👍
Did not really need a-lot of pressure just needed to let the crl break stuff down and then send water flow back and forth
I would like to do this on my '16 Cummins. However, should i be concerned about the rest of the coolant system being plugged? If i flush the rest of the system am i just going to plug the heater core again with more contaminants? Definitely switching to a different coolant after I flush.
@@zakatak7058 yes as i had that happen one time
So many hater’s out there. Thanks for sharing I’ll definitely use your method. Keep the videos coming 🇺🇸
Right its funny for something that works and saves 1000s in replacing the core
Thanks for the idea. What kind of screen and bezel kit is that?
Thanks. its a full unit screen and deal all one peace tesla radio was like 700 bucks
I have a 2009 Dodge RAM 1500 I got back in August of 2009. I did my first cooling system flush in May of 2014. I switched to the Prestone 50/50 antifreeze. Had a new heater core installed in July of 2017 when I got my AC evaporator core replaced during the HVAC rebuild on my truck when the AC failed. I did my second cooling system flush on May of 2019. I am set to do another one this year when it gets warmer. I've done a coolant flush every five years even with prestone 50/50. It never hurts. I've had great heat on both sides of the truck because of it. As long as you do flushes and replace heater core when necessary, you should never have to have problems with no heat or one sided heat. At least I didn't. Great video. Is your heat still working?
Yes the heat is still working great as i got all the calcium out of the core that collects with the pink that they out in the cummins
Is your truck a dual zone heat system? Mine is and the drivers side is cold as f. Thanks for the video!
The passenger side was hot as hell ice cold on the driver-side But. The air boxes are the same just a blend door in them. But no i do not have duel zone. But the drivers side get the air from the bottom of the heater core that always plugs first i delt with this for three years till the pass side started getting cold lol
My 2020 ram is doing same , no heat on driver side , I’m gonna try this ! Thanks
Yeah it deff work for me. Thats what i had going on
Question what are the heater cores made of ?
Aluminum
Man this was a helpful and encouraging video. I have a 2013 2500 with the 5.7 and recently I only have good (ish) heat on the passenger side and luke warm heat on the drivers side. I understand that the bottom of the core (which would get clogged first) supplies the driver's side heat. If I am correct, your steps were
1. Use a garden hose to flush the coolant out of the core
2. Attach hoses to the inlet and outlet of the core
3. Have two buckets, one with each hose going into them
4. Use the drill pump to transfer water from one bucket to the other as it passes through the core
5. Fill the core with CLR and let it sit for an hour or so
6. Pass water and CLR through the core both ways using the drill pump?
7. Attach the hose and flush and back flush the core until you have nothing but clean water coming out
My question is, am I correct in these steps? And when you were done, how did you get all of the air out of the system and replace the collant in the core?
Really trying to not take the dash apart and replace the core. Thanks for the video and thte help.
Yes you can also use your garden hose to push back and forth as i did as well at the start and you could see very low flow on full blast. As for coolant air jiat add coolant back to your tank as if you would if replacing a rad. Just wont take as much
I think I have the same thing going on. How is it running now? Still have good heat?
Yea its very common problem as why i made the vid and i have replaced so many cores and its a real shitty job for a 40 dollar part and yes its been threw months awesome heat still
Remember that it’s not just in your heater coil. Fleet guard makes a great product. You drain your coolant. Add and top with distilled water. It will eat a ton of the crap out and flush you entire system.
Oh i know
Is it designed to be left in and ran with a Ram diesel or do you run, drain then fill with recommended specially formulated Ram diesel coolant?
@@TheHyde8875 on the fleet guard you have a mix ratio. drain your coolant. Fill with the mix. drive up to op temp for the prescribed time. then flush a few times with regular water till you see no more crap/detergent. then you do a final wash with distilled to ensure you have all the reg water/detergent out then fill back with coolant. so you need to be prepared to collect 2/3 times the amount of liquid. the final fresh water and distilled should be so diluted you could just let those steps drain to the ground.
Sorry if you stated this but what are the dilution ratios for the clr to water when flushing or did you just rub straight clr
Full let it sit i. The core for 20 -30 mins. The. Flush with water back and forth repeat as needed till suff stops coming out of the core
Has it still continued to produce heat or did it plug up again?
Still has. Heat
Does this fix a leaking heater core ?
Not at all only thing you can do if its leaking is replace it
How much CRL do you use?
I grab a gallon maybe use half its all depends on how plugged it is. The last time i did my truck. It was not that bad. But after you let it sit in it for 30 mins lots of crap is going to come out with it. And you dont want to pump it back in to do it the second time. So like i did let it sis flush it back and forth with water then pump some more and let it sis repeat
ended up having to do it twice. Had zero heat on either side of my truck. I don’t think I did it long enough the first time and had about 40% heat. Heat is working amazing now. While I was flushing the system, I could not stop getting the little flakes. I did it for over three hours. After doing it the first time the day before yesterday I had the coolant system flushed completely. Should I do it again?
@@91704jhaas it took me 4 hours the first time i did it till i was getting no more crap out
you can just hook back up the lines with the water still in the heater core?
Yes its so minimal it it wont matter
Any chance you post the parts name and sizes? Did you buy it on Amazon?
I will have to look and see the sizes but i got the parts i screwed the hoses from auto zone the were just coolant bleed deals i think 3/4 the drill pump i got from ace hardware and the crl. And the plugs i put on the t fittings were just coolant caps from the help section at autozone as well
They are conceited coolant flush t's. But i cap the one side off as i was not flushing the whole system i for the life of me could not remember the name just now www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/radiator-flush-tools/p/dorman-help-5-8in-radiator-flush-tee/85211_0_0?cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:HRD:19489353553&&CATARGETID=120054150001290089&CADevice=m&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAADkcoVumXjvpS-MHi76gSICwWPaEj&gclid=CjwKCAiA75itBhA6EiwAkho9e_HdStVY1PiTTX1QKP9rXtUYCIngCjHM-edJu6WHwELPriO6WriwWxoCp78QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Orange and green mixed turns to a gel when you flushed the core at first it was green. Is the cell safe for the radiator? Parts man told me to use orange and I had green in it but it calls for the yellow. I bet I’ll read my owners manual next time
Nothing was mixed in this. It was new from the dealer calcium builds up in orange and thats what is every dodge Chrysler
U can put what ever you want in as long as your not mixing in my case purple cumins coolant and not have this issue agin
@@TheRogueOnes I got cha nice. I’m gonna do my duramax and the ford van they had me put the wrong stuff in I just hope it’s not too late
where do you get those connectors
The tee fittings ? If so autozone
Im going to try this on my son '14 ram 1500
Worth a shot
Isn’t CLR bad on aluminum?
This has been fine also honda factory service flushes with crl
Hit max ac with heater knob on hot .push again so recirculate ONLY IS LITE . THAT SHOULD KEEP YA WARM til you aquire supplies
I did that for a-bit only issue with that is the windows fog badly
Why is the coolant red and then green? New to these trucks and just bought a low mileage 2015. Thanks!
@@eo8513 the coolant is not green that is the cleaner is green i used in the vid the crl is green
Older coolant was green . Long life coolant is pink or orange .
Where can I get that radio
Its 800 bucks but heres the link
www.ebay.com/itm/176006453336?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=7mtk1qdhqts&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=tKcFeJBXRha&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
@@TheRogueOnes thanks, unfortunately the link is no good now, is it possible to find new link? thanks
I gotta do mine too
I took me three years to getting around to doing. Mine
What year is your ram?
17
Has been terrible. Below 0 temps, have a scraper inside to clear windshield to see. This year I put a propane camp stove in the cab to add heat. Backflush looks like it would be safer... I'll get to it!
Yeah i think it would deff be safer
A coolant filter is your friend. Also a cabin air filter. A shame Ram neglects basic filters for their trucks.
My truck came with a cabin filter
I had my heater core replaced maybe 2 yrs ago or less and am just noticing the windshield is fogging up again. Needs replacing AGAIN??
Try the flush. Mine was plugged solid and it worked its a bit time consuming but not as bad as doing the core
Flush the heater core? I am no mechanic, I just want to understand the process@@TheRogueOnes
@@BruceDavis2301 well its defiantly a cheeper fix if it works replacing them in these trucks is very labor intensive and can be up words of 1500dollars to do
How are you guys ending up with mineral deposits in your cooling system? Are you only using concentrated antifreeze and distilled water or premixed antifreeze? If so, you should never have these issues.
The only way this should occur is if you introduce tap water into your system during your flushes or dilutions.
In over 30 years I’ve never seen this before on my vehicles, foreign or domestic (mopar included).
Yes and stock truck was brand new and plugged in 4 years i have seen this on 10000s of jeeps as i have done 10000s heater cores in them
@ there’s nothing innately different about the heater core than the rest of your cooling system, especially on more modern vehicles, that make them any more susceptible to corrosion or blockage as long as the system is maintained properly.
Use of the proper/compatible antifreeze, zero tap water, removing all air from the system upon fluid changes, etc, all ensure proper performance.
The only way the aluminum can corrode is by contaminants entering the system through impurities in coolants, degradation of the inhibitors or use of incorrect antifreeze (both resulting in corrosion within the system), oil in the antifreeze (sludge), or allowing other products or foreign substances to be added into the coolant.
These newer coolants realistically remain stable for up to 10 years. I just changed my 17 ram 1500 with 83k with original coolant, and ph tested it after draining it. It was still perfect. And zero corrosion after running a cleaner solution with distilled water in for a week. There was a slight pink color to it from the remainder of the coolant in the system, but zero rust, minerals, nothing. Another quick pure distilled water fill, run, bleed, and dump, and then fill with the real stuff again. And yes, I live in the upper Midwest where we run the heat on high half the year, and the ac the other half.
For the thumbnails I suggest you use a font that is easier to read.
Next vid
@@TheRogueOnes 👍
I used radiator flush and a whole can of brake clean. We have 12 2018 ram 3500. 6 of them have no heat. Also changing the core does not stop it from plugging again. So flushing might become a yearly thing
@@tomborders6003 you need to clean the hole system out and replace the pink and orange coolant with green
We drained the whole system. But put the original antifreeze back in.
I think technology has been spying on me... your video popped up right after I ordered stuff for this off Amazon. I got the same idea after trying to just do a manual backflush with a hose. very minimal results. But... now it's January & it's below zero, so I needed something I could do inside the garage without a garden hose... So I ordered a small 12volt pump that just hooks to the truck battery & ordered a gallon of a Special type of CLR not normally found in stores... It's called CLR Professional Radiator flush & cleaner.. It's almost $40 for a gallon. I ordered mine from Grainger industrial supply. ordered some 5/8 double male barbed hose connectors & some heater hose to connect from the core hoses over the side of the truck to 5 gallon buckets on the floor.... then just let the pump keep recirculating the CLR & let the flow & chemicals try to break it all down. then replace the CLR with fresh water & flush out the CLR well... Because tap water has all sorts of stuff in it.... I bought a couple gallons of pure distilled water for the final rinse so less chance of anything from the tap water later....then blow it out with compressed air to empty the heater core.... then reconnect & refill with Fresh OAT antifreeze (what my Ram calls for) *important note... OAT antifreeze is NOT the same as GOAT.... they CANNOT be mixed...at all... they will gel up & plug the core... just like you wiped off the bucket... ya hafta be sure you use the right stuff & Don't mix em... regardless what some say... they will chemically gel up over time & may never be able to be flushed out.
When i did this nothing had ever been changed it was all still factory what i wiped out was calcium from the water mixed with the coolant from the factory it drys up to a powder
Couldn’t use just run some cascade dish washing powder through for a day and then flush
@@edcox7745 no lol
Nice to have heat again in tgere... especially in ny 🥶
Yes
So, to be clear; you had no heat prior to this? My 16 has zero at this point.. Also a Northeast guy here, Maine… I need to do this!
Yes zero u can see all the crap that came out of it i am in nother ny so yeah
I ended up having to do it twice. Had zero heat on either side of my truck. Heat is working amazing now. While I was flushing the system, I could not stop getting the little flakes. I did it for over three hours going forward and reverse. It wasn’t a crazy amount, but it wouldn’t stop. I just hooked it all back up. I did a coolant system flush after the first round. Should I do another coolant system flush?
Great instructional video, but please clean up your language sir!
Sorry!
Why? The man is giving us great info. He wants to use profanity, so be it.
It’s Free information in a free country so he’s free to use his natural vocabulary.
Where does the original @#$% that came out of the heater core come from??
The coolant its self seams to be doing it. As. This happens on all mopar cars
Dude u haven't shown what it's hooked up to. Bullshit
What its at exactly 2:13 in the video that its hooked to ........ What do you mean what its hooked up to. Do you mean the heater core lines. The two hoses that go to the heater core the only ones that go to it? Thats kinda a given that you hook the hoses to the heater core? Did not know it was bullshit. If flushing the heater core. You hook your hoses to the heater core ok.. the two that from the fire wall..... other than that what else you looking to hook to ??
@@TheRogueOnes The video was definitely detailed enough. Anyone that can not follow what you showed in this video should just take their truck to a shop. Flushing a heater core is not rocket science and you showed everything needed and where to hook the hoses up to the heater core.
At the end showing what you did worked and fixed the issue is a welcomed bonus. Nice job.
@@aholmes447 thank you after his comment i went back to rewatch the vid again and was like its right there even put my hands on the hoses in the vid and was like wtf is this dude talking about
How much coolant did you have to add after
I did not drain the whole system so like less than a
Half a gallon
Did you only drain enough for it not to run everywhere when disconnecting the heater hoses ?
@ did not lose much at all just taking the hoses off so in reality just had to put like a 1/4 gallon back i.