Could The Tow Tower Be The Replacement For A Car Dolly?
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- Опубликовано: 15 фев 2018
- In this video, you'll see a demonstration of the Tow Tower, a device that attaches to a motorhomes trailer hitch and, depending on the model, uses either an electric motor or hydraulics to lift a tow vehicle's front wheels off the ground.
Since I flat tow a Jeep Wrangler with all four wheels on the ground, I have no experience towing a front wheel drive vehicle behind a motorhome. I've seen other motorhome owners using tow dollies to tow in this fashion and I am to understand that one of the headaches is what to do with the dolly once you've arrived at the destination.
So, I'll ask: What's your thoughts on the Tow Tower? 
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I'm seeing a few common questions on this thread and thought I would attempt to answer them. Please note, I just ask the questions in my videos and am not affiliated with this product in any way, nor am II a towing expert. I'm simply a motorhome user who has a background in reporting on new products. As always, no consideration or payment of any form was provided to me for the production of this video. .
While the Tow Tower provides an alternative to towing front wheel drive cars and in some cases can replace a tow dolly, it's best compared to a tow bar as it connects to a motorhome's trailer hitch and then to the vehicle. Because it's not a tow dolly that (sometimes) incorporates brakes and lighting, this product connects these features in a similar manner as a tow bar. To accomplish this, a braking system (such as an Air Force One) would need to be installed in the vehicle and connected to the motorhome's air line. Lighting a car's tail lamps would also require a connection between the motorhome and the car.
In terms of tongue weight, yes that appears to be a limiting factor as it seems it's designed for larger motorhomes and possibly, smaller, lighter vehicles.
One question that came up after I posted this video is how to access the motorhome's engine bay doors when the tow dolly is attached to the motorhome. I don't have that answer.
I've received PM's asking if I will be doing a hands-on test of this product and the simple answer is: Not at this time. I flat tow my vehicles using a Blue Ox Tow Bar and after 10,000+ miles of flat towing two different vehicles, I am happy with the setup I'm using.. I don't own a front wheel drive vehicle so there's no motivation on my part to do more than simply allow the manufacturer to tell his story and provide a demo.
When it comes to the manufacturer's claim that the mounting brace doesn't violate the manufacturer's warranty, I can't say that I was 100% satisfied with the response provided as it sounded (to me) that his dealer didn't have an issue working on his car with this device attached. There's a difference between a dealer and manufacturer. I have no reason to doubt this claim.
After we completed shooting this video, I asked if he had the proper liability insurance in place and the answer was affirmative.
The bottom line: This product could be an alternative to requiring a dolly or trailer to tow some front wheel drive vehicles. However, that will depend on the specific motorhome and vehicle in the equation. This is a first generation product and I can only guess this company will be looking at improvements and possibly additional offerings in the future.
Please pin this comment at the top of the comment section - it will save the same questions from being repeatedly asked by people who do not read all the comments.
The Gadget Guru most definitely going to have tires rubbing the ground when you go from flat rd to a semi steep grade flat to steep grade damage to the system or car..thats just my opinion of course
The Gadget Guru i tow cars and im pretty sure thats gonna be an issue to figure out.. That being said its a very impressive product indeed
Is it legal? I would rather us a a tow bar. To much fiddling around with the hitch assembly.
@@donaldtyrell9816 If he has insurance in place it would be legal or he would not get insurance to cover him. He is using a very reputable testing company if it did not pass legal or safety they would fail it and he would not get insurance. Manufacturing and liability insurance for business is not like insuring your car.
At 8:51 "You could tow with probably four wheels down with this. We haven't done this yet. We've done it in testing."
Love this new idea. I look forward to a future update on it.
It seems like a great alternative to a dolly or trailer. I have used both plus towed all four down. It is nice to see a guy reinvent a way to do something. While it is not for everybody, it will be for some. Nice job.
As a new subscriber to you channel I’m amazed at the amount of usable information you deliver. I’m now trying to catch up on your videos which are like reading a great novel that I can’t put down.
Wow, that's the ultimate compliment. Thank You!
THank you for an interesting idea. A driving demo and safety chain hookup may have helped also. I know you were demonstrating the hitch but no mention of electrical hookups for brake lights.
Interesting looking product, but the host need to clam down and allow the speaker to finish talking !!
I agree - He does this in all his videoes.
Yes very annoying
Great informative video as usual. Thanks!
This seems like a good idea for someone that owns a 45' bus, but I can't see this working with most small to medium size motorhomes because of tongue weight restrictions on the tow hitch. I would have liked to see the bus in driving configuration because as shown the front wheels on the towed vehicle would have certainly bottomed out every time you went out of a gas station, etc.. I like the idea of not needing a tow dolly and being able to backup...but this wouldn't work for us.
Wow! He gave me an idea, my motorhome has hydraulic for the generator slide, with a simple transfer valve I can use the same system to run a hyd cylinder in the rear with quick disconnects, and boom, I got a rear lift that can be attached to my reese hitch,. A simple "t" bar under my car and I have my lift! Thanks guy!
Nice looking IH 45! I believe that hitch is rated for 20k! Not sure if people will opt to spend that much vs the tow dolly. For one thing, less weight on the receiver hitch with a tow dolly, since the weight of the car is on the dolly, not on the hitch! Just my opinion!
Joe Allen
A dolly might be cheaper and easier to get going down the road but very few people can back one up.
Joe Allen hitch is rated for 20,000 load. Not 20k lbs of tongue weight.
@@ROTAXD Exactly...I would guess that most large buses with a 10K to 20K pound tow rating would have up to a 5K tongue rating but I am not sure. You would certainly need to run higher air pressures in your rear tires on your coach to carry the extra weight. Still a great idea but the price point versus a tow dolly is hard to justify.
Love your videos and would love to see some travel videos in your Prevost around the country.
I add these comments since I've seen several owners discussing this in the forums as a great option for their average size, light duty truck chassis, single rear axle motorhomes. Less than 1% of motorhomes have a hitch that will allow more than 1,000 pounds of hitch weight. Most of the others are rated in the 500-800 pound hitch weight with many less than that. This car places 1,600 pounds of weight on the hitch. We're NOT talking tow capacity here...we're talking downward weight on the hitch ball. Many professionals in the hitch business state, " horizontal extensions to the hitch receiver will reduce the hitch capacity by 50%". The bar that attaches to the car is considered an extension. Hitches are rated by the industry at a measurement 4 inches from the face plate of the fixed, hitch receiver. Another consideration is the negative forces of the up and down bouncing down the road, which will reduce the weight on the steering axle of the motorhome and can momentarily nearly double the downward weight on the hitch. Many motorhomes are single rear axles and the overhang is huge between the axle and the rear of the coach...much more than this tandem diesel pusher in the video. This product should come with serious disclaimers in RED INK...enough so that the average user can understand the disaster fixing to happen with nearly any car they try to tow with it...unless they own the true commercial bus chassis type set-up as in the video. Nice concept...will not work in the real world...especially with the hitches most manufacturers install on the average motorhome today. OK...I'm done and can sleep well tonight.
Maybe you should watch the hole video before making a stupid comment! Your concern was already covered in the video!
You know what funny, I was just watching you on the drone side yesterday and now you're in RV section.
Drones and Motorhomes! I enjoy my hobbies!
Average RV with tag axle: 1,500 max tongue weight. (pull is 15,000)
Average RV without a tag axle: 1,000 max tongue weight. (pull is 10,000)
Average RV sport without a tag axle: 500 max tongue weight. (pull is 5,000)
Average car to lift is over 1,500 lbs .
Most will say a 4,000 lbs car you will need to pick up 50% of that car and that would be wrong. its 40/60. 40% on the rear and 60% is on the front no matter how you lift a car the motor just will not jump in to the rear of the car. He even said he's that he's over the 1,500 lbs on that little Cadillac.
The warranty is VOIDED if you do not lift the car as the manufacturing says.
Fix:
1) Add a road weight dolly (
TRAILER TOAD 3500)
that takes up the weight from the tongue? (road dolly holds up to 20,000 lbs and puts no more then 1,000 lbs tongue on the rig)
2) Add a lift of the tires and scrap the body lift points. (this still has the problem of tongue weight limits)
Car is way to low and tires drag in and out of driveways and low areas..
It looks to be a good start to something but it must comply with laws in all States.
It still has bugs that need to be work out.
Tow dolly is $2,500 out the door with straps and it put the weight on the dolly... Or you flat tow your car (car kit $1,000+ install $1,000 + Brake kit $1,000)
I saw this kit at $6,200? WTF?? let me know if this lift was that price..
Ebay link:
TRAILER TOAD 3500 - HEAVY TRAILER WHEELED TONGUE WEIGHT LOAD ELIMINATOR.
www.ebay.com/i/183796703210?chn=ps
They do make one for 15,000 lbs & 10,000 lbs models.
Nice. Huge advantage being able to back up. I have had to drop my toad when I tried to uturn in a parking lot and couldn't make it. Just being able to back up 10 feet would have saved the day. Most 2 inch receivers are rated 10k with a tongue weight of 1k. Going to need to make sure they move up to a 2 1/2 receiver to be on the safe side.
'You can trade hours for dollars, or ideas for millions'
Pretty cool idea.
Its a cool idea but you can get a real wheel lift installed for not much more money and by wheel lift I mean like on a tow truck.Then you can tow just about anything without touching the car.
Clever idea, a lot simpler and lighter than other options. But frankly, a lightweight folding full trailer might be better choice. If you look at my channel I have a 900lb rampless trailer design that might be made to fold too, as I understand the problem with a trailer is once the vehicle is off it, you have to store it somewhere.
Gadget Guru as usual bringing wonderful material to the public. Thank you so much. And as far as this product is concerned I would wait. I certainly wouldn't be the the first one in line. Wait to get some real-world reactions, the pros and cons. The idea is fantastic though, maybe needs a little polishing
Thanks HB. No disagreement from me. I'm sticking with my Jeep/Blue Ox combination.
Beautiful. Very nice.
Dude you need to be on " dancing with the stars "
I think this would be a must have for those Super C's. Personally I wouldn't contemplate this if I didn't have a Tag Axle. JMHO.
Great product.. The tow bar coming out from under car and the bar holding the C- clamp hitch, each one needs to be a few inches longer. That would make it easier to insert tow bar on car and give a better turning radius. Hooking up the chains and cables would be a non issue. Great Guru Gadget..
the center of gravity never moves, well unless you get in a bad wreck.
weight transfer does happen when you lift either end or drive up or down a hill for that matter.
I would question the suspension bottoming out on large bumps alot!
Great idea
I have a Chevy Bolt - all electric, so it's got a big battery underneath. Will that battery impact this?
Question, a hitch rated 5K or 10K is lateral towing limit not lifting 5K directly onto the hitch? Just asking??
That really is a great idea 👍❗ ❗👍
Really limited to type of coach you can use for this. Most hitches are limited to around 1500 lbs vertical weight, even hitches that can tow 15000 lbs. Also rear Rear GAWR limit will be affected.
This is Great for those Super C's
What if the hydraulic fails does it have a one way valve just in cases the hydraulic fails how about lights
Hmm, y'all got me thinking now: Hey, just mount or weld a receiver for that big tow bar to your car (like he did on his Cadillac), then drive it up on those Wheel dollies (moving wheel jacks)and align it with the rear hitch of your rig. Some of those wheel dollies can be jacked up some can't. If the height of the wheel dollies is not enough, put the car jack (trolley jack) under the tow bar and lift it to the desired height. I don't know I was just brainstorming. JMHOs.
Any updates on this product? I’ve been trying to reach them and never heard back. Been over a year
This would be a product to pitch on Shark Tank. He did ask about NHTSA. Though, would there be any hurdles to overcome with DOT, and would there be any regulations with each state equivilant (sp?) DOT to allow use of this product on their roads? Trying to convince folks who already use a Tow Dolley to switch and spend $4,000 plus or minus on this product will be a tough sell. Seems to be a very limited market for it.
man with ball cap will not let this man explain anything
why didn't they show more of what to install under the towed unit. is it a permanent fixture? removable? what is involved installing? at home? shop? seems like it wouild be a problem on any type of entry that has a dip, of which they mostly are, that will allow the front wheels to touch. without being able to turn and follow the turn it would be scuffing rubber off and putting stresses onto the toewd unit
Do you need to activate the car brakes wigg the Tow Tower?
I'm looking for current info on this product, and I can't find anything, does anyone have any information?
Put a flip up wheel lift on this to get the tires higher off the ground.
This product is only meant for Class A, most tow hitches do not have a tongue weight over 700 pounds. This product is for the big boys. I didn't see any independant breaking for your tow vehicle as required by law. Nice product
Most factory hitches on RV's and Pickups cant handle 2 thousand pounds of weight or more in which a front drive vehicle would weigh with motor drive axle in the front and this is also going to have a lever affect being its out away from the tow Vehicle.
i'd still go with full trailer. then you can also back up, it has brakes, you can use for other purposes. if you also have a hitch on small vehicle, you can use trailer behind it as well
He did say you could backup with this device. But I agree with you, I'd rather use a trailer.
My biggest concern about this TowTower is the amount of weight and the leverage that weight has on the hitch of the motor home. The expense is the second concern since the price is in the range of a tow dolly.
If he could get this thing to the point of mass manufacturing, I'm sure the price could be cut almost in half. But, he has to sell enough units to do that.
My thoughts are about the rear wheel bearings that are receiving a lot more weight with the whole of the car riding on them since the front wheels are off the ground... I would think they would be a lot more heat to deal with...
The weight transferred to the towed vehicle's rear wheel bearings is NOT significant at all - no more than when the front of a vehicle is on a tow dolly and the rear wheels are are left on the roadway. There is a simple physics formula for this entire setup, but not knowing everyone's comfort level with math I will refrain from making it more confusing.
If the vehicle dips down will the wheels drag? Would you then have to leave it in neutral?
Yes - the front wheels will "drag" when you encounter a large dip and if the towed vehicle is not left in neutral then it will possible damage the transmission (specifically the parking pawl mechanism inside the transmission). You would never feel the resistance of the towed vehicle dragging on the ground with a large RV - it would require a spotter to visually confirm the front wheels of the towed vehicle are not dragging when you go thru a large dip.
Very good concept but it looks like it need a refining touch. Also they should make a hook or claw like system that will hook under the vehicle being towed. Make the product universal. ohh btw i tried to reach out to the manufacture but looks like their website is offline
lack of extra braking and cresting hill haveing the toad cars wheels hit ground may be an issue. Cool design though. I guess you could just leave the rear in N.
One should not mock what they don’t understand.
I prefer a tow dolly myself keep the weight on a tow dolly not on a tongue of my motorhome.
And you can't tow any car behind you with this device it's almost like a 4 down tow you have to have a component on the vehicle.
With a tow dolly you can tow different vehicle whenever you want and with the kar kaddy tow dolly it fold out the way in camping sites. 👍
How do you access your engine?
The video conveniently left out the process of connecting the safety chains to the towed vehicle. That is half the work with this system and was not even shown. Then how about a test drive showing the RV taking a tight turn with the towed vehicle so close behind the RV - there is definitely going to be more issues with clearance than with a conventional towbar setup or even a dolly trailer, that are at least a foot farther away from the RV when connected.
All good points, but as I've stated earlier, this is not a review of the product, just a demonstration of the lift mechansim by the manufacturer. Common sense and towing regulations dictate that safety chains and other devices need to be in place for proper operation.
I'm sorry this video didn't live up to your expectations. It appears that you're knowledgeable about this topic and I'll ask if you feel this could potentially be a replacement for a tow dolly?
You are absolutely correct with your statement that "towing regulations dictate that safety chains and other devices need to be in place for proper operation." - however the tow chain connection process for the TowTower is not as simple as just dropping a hook into an opening on the trailer hitch. Also a frequently asked question I kept reading in the comments of this video were about how does this TowTower make it any easier if you still have to setup an auxiliary braking & safety lighting on the towed vehicle. Maybe in future "demonstration" videos you will include a clear explanation/disclaimer that you are demonstrating JUST a very limited scope of the product - as you stated in your reply to my comment that this was "just a demonstration of the lift mechanism". I see your multiple paragraph comment trying to address many of these issues, but most people just watch the video and rarely read all the comments - especially when such an important clarification comment by you is not pinned to the top of the comment section.
This product is designed for a limited segment of the RV community and even then those RV's will frequently require replacement of the hitch in order to safely allow the TowTower to work in a hitch within it designed weight carrying (WC) capacity. There is a reason the manufacturer requires 12 different data points on the RV, hitch, and towed vehicle to be supplied to them to determine if that is a combination they are even willing to allow a TowTower unit to be sold for. I can only imagine a few years from now as these units get into the second-hand market and someone installs the TowTower into a hitch without the correct weight carrying capacity.
thats nonsense, if you install this tow tower on a hitch not rated for it, thats on you not the tow toweer. No different than people pulling trailers with their trucks, they have to make sure they are within their ratings. Its common sense . i just had to upgrade my hitch to tow my dump trailer, if i towed the trailer on my hitch not rated for it, thats not that trailer companies fault, its mine.
Looks like the tow vehicle will rock side to side with that kind of hitch and lean either right or left. Possible tires hitting the ground. didn't see it in action turning, driveways etc.
Please take a minute and edit the description box to include links to anything you are demonstrating or promoting, linking in a video does not allow us to click and take us to the page like a hyperlink text.
Might be OK on a diesel pusher with a tag axle. I would not use it on my gaser. I've got 14 ft from my rear axle to the hitch. Too much leverage there. Tonge weight on my tow dolly never gets much above 600 lbs no matter how heavy a car I tow
Doesn’t this put a strain on the tounge weight of the coach?
Is this product holding true?
Would’ve liked to see some closer shots of the connections. I watched the whole video and was disappointed.
i have an idea that would make this product even better. who would i talk to?
Supplemental Braking?
What about brakes for the vehicle?
Don't you need brakes on anything over 2k?
It varies by state, some states require auxillary brakes for anything over 1k.
This system would require you to install an automatic brake actuator system in the car, the same as vehicles towed all 4 on the ground. Rather than using the brakes on a tow dolly.
This system isn't about saving money. This is already more expensive than a two dolly with brakes. The main feature is that when you drive the RV around without the car, you don't need to pull the empty tow dolly.
Ram-n_dodge I guess you'll loose your breakes, foot pedal controls the front brekes and E break controls the rear
Rafael Espinoza while there are probably many people with your name you wouldn't by chance live is Washington state USA?
@@rafaelespinoza8739 Your a moron! All cars the foot peddle control all 4 wheels required by LAW! It has been that way for decades! Never ever has a vehicle been setup where the peddle only uses the front brakes NEVER! Way way back in the day some vehicles only had rear brakes operated by the peddle but NEVER front only!
Where is the link to the website?
The tongue weight would be ridiculously high with that set up and I think it’d take a very large motorhome to support that much tongue weight
Not to mention I don’t see a benefit to lifting the front in that situation
LOL, DP plates on the motorhome
what are you sliding the bar into ? must be something installed under the car ? left that part out. wouldnt it have been easier to weld two tire pads on a t bar that lays on the ground and you drive onto them and strap the tires down, then lift ? then there is no installation and you can use any car.
Aah so you have to modify your chassis a tab bit. How much is that?
You might want to take this video down. It appears that this is no longer a thing. Website has been down for over 2 years and no Facebook comments for 2 plus years.
I look for it also and I agree with your conclusion sadly it looks like they are not in business
Isn’t it a problem letting the wheels hang like that
Holy tongue weight Batman!
I really like the Idea. However I don't know of any RV's that have a tongue weight rating of 1600 pounds. Even a diesel pusher like in the video. How about giving your subscribers a few examples of what RV's are capable of using this towing system. Thanks. Good video, just need to know who can use the product.
As you saw in the video, I asked the question about compatible videos and his response was (in essence) to go to their website. At this stage of this product, you're correct, there's only a few of the larger motor coaches that meet the weight requirement.
It could be safe only if the tow vehicle is designed to support that much weight - which most aren't, regardless of the rating the manufacturer of the hitch receiver claims ( their specs will say to not exceed the designed tongue weight limit of the tow vehicle). Otherwise, it could damage the frame of the tow vehicle. Pay close attention to the legal fine print on this product. If the tow vehicle is rated high enough then this is much like towing through an older two-wheel-on-the road tow truck service, most of which are now using a flat bed. Don't expect this to be safe with most motor homes as the tow vehicle.
Prefer the trailer that way my font suspension is supported not seeing the safety of this vs the trailers
Plz put a link to his website that would really help
It was in the video, but here it is again www.towtower.com
KCautodoctor, a lot of review videos also include a ink in the description, its easy to do and can be edited in the event they change the name or go out of business or found to be a fraud.
Dolly is still a better idea.
1600 lb weight on the hitch = appx 500 lb less on the steering wheels and you can now have an unstable motor home that is 100% unsafe on the road... plus you'll have the headlights suddenly aimed higher.
You have to have a monster of an RV or its just unsafe.
That looked to be a monster of an RV so...
I think flat tow is still better than this, but this does open up your choice of vehicles compared to flat tow.
For that money, I will just use my falcon II. 4 wheels down.
Neat concept, but looks like a PIA to use.
What about brake lights and turn signals?
Still have to setup a system for them, just like you would if the vehicle was being towed on a dolly or flat-towed with a tow bar
must have failed.. web site is gone
so thats only for a RV i assume?
How much is the tow tower cost
I’d just flat tow, thank you very much. It’s much easier
Website is no longer up and phone number is not working. I guess the TowTower...crashed. Seemed like a workable idea.
OK it works to a point but you Must have an over the top Class "A" Coach. something along an MCI sized Vehicle with the wheels set way Back if you plan on a car any Bigger than a Smart or Yugo. Most Motor homes I see running down the road have a Huge Rear overhang and putting 1500 Bouncing Pounds 8' + behind the Axles, your just asking for a Light front end and a Flexed Vehicle. A Friend of mine had a Large Non Commercial framed Class "A" Pusher that he Mounted a Motorcycle Rack (BMW 1000cc) between his Wheels Down Saturn and his Coach and he said No way am I ever going to drive in the rain or in the Mountains with this and that was just a 700 lb. Bike.
So...."In a collision, the bolts connecting this thing to the car are designed to 'shear off'". If I'm towing with this and have an accident, and the bolts "shear off' as designed, my car is no longer connected to my bus and is instead flying into oncoming traffic and kills a family of nuns? Keeping anything being towed connected at all costs has been the standard. If I am understanding this correctly, this seems like a personal injury lawyer dream come true. Am I missing something??
Seems like lining up the hitch could be a painta
Be very careful with this product. With a 6000# auto lifted from the front, the weight actually lifted will be nearly double the 1600# quoted by the designer -- any first engineering student can calculate. The deadweight capacity of a motorcoach hitch is only about 10% of its total capacity. My Spartan K2 would handle 1500 deadweight. If would be VERY dangerous to lift that Caddy and pull it, despite the fact that the K2 has a 15,000# towing capacity
His caddy was 4,000# to get the 1,600# tongue weight, still a lot and more than most hitches, I'm assuming this does not rely on stock hitches. 6k is a heavy pickup these days, vehicles are getting lighter again after peaking years back. KCautodoctor above said the increased weight on the rear wheels will be insignificant, true. But more weight on the rear wheels than with a dolly, as the front support moves further forward than the front axle.
Andy, let them answer the question. Quit cutting them off
i see weight as the big problem here. both axle, and receiver weights. backing would be far easier.
Larry Janson the problem with the rear axle is he is going for lifting the front of front wheel drive vehicles. You don't want the drive train of an automatic being in the ground when towed
Here's a tip for making your videos, have a script written out that you read from. Your videos with all of the stammering are extremely confusing and annoying. The topic was great, but your presentation was horrible.
got a handicap plate on that bus
wow that's a lot of tongue weight. Most of your (non custom) Class A's top off at 1500 Lbs. I would never go over 1300 Lbs.
theres gotta be a better be a better way.
Should be able to tow rear wheel drive cars as well.
same issue as tow dolly... sucks to tow backwards.. disconnect drive shaft better
First no mention of where the chains go second nothing like adding around 1000 pounds to the rear axles and frame third bolts that sheer off none of this really sounds good to me
Let the man finish a sentence !!!! Jesus H Christ !
NOT NEAR ENOUGH INFO
my understanding is......
That's a lot if weight on a hitch.
Omg, what a nervous host. The gadget guru needs to relax or get off coffee
Nope. Not without electronic connection to the towed car's brake lights, turn signals, etc... No braking action in the towed vehicle forcing a total reliance on the towing vehicle to brake. Not safe.
And another poorly thought out product for r/v er's. first assuming he has A class IV hitch with A max tongue weight of 1200 lbs subtract 200+lbs for the tower will leave his towed vehicle 600lbs over max tongue wt (assuming his calculations were correct on vehicle weight) 2nd: the tow bar design has way too much flex in it which will cause the toad to bounce and put enormous stress on the tow bar and the mounting position having only 2 bolts on the sub frame and 2 more farther back in the sheet metal uni-body will cantilever the mount and eventually rip out of the uni-body. last the hydro system seems to be very weak he states it will lift 6k lbs but he had to lower and raised it a couple times to get into tow position. Gadget guru I love your vids but I wish you would go more in depth on the safety and technical issues and make these people prove their claims. or hire me to research for you lol. BTW I am no expert but I have been building trailers and other towables for 25 years and am very studious and acutely aware of the stresses towing puts on A vehicle (both the power unit and the toad.