EXPOSURE COMPENSATION DEMYSTIFIED!
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
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My name is Simon d'Entremont and I'm a professional wildlife and nature photographer from Eastern Canada. In this videos you'll learn to master exposure compensation to rid yourself of over or underexposed photos.
I use Topaz Labs software for noise reduction, sharpening and upscaling:
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What’s your favorite tip to get the exposure right? I’d love to know! Please share.
Hi Simon, I'm new to the world of photography but your videos have helped me👏
I use auto iso and the exposure compensation dial to adjust to the right without clipping whites. Since cameras have histograms and zebra display, why is there not a program in the camera that is "avoid clipping whites" or "avoid clipping blacks" so the camera auto adjusts the exposure until just before there is clipping in either the whites or blacks base on your selection while still allowing exposure compensation if desirable? Thanks Simon!
..spot-metering & i haved moved to auto-iso....i've had a lot better hits with peregrine falcons...im shooting with the sigma 150-600 on leica SL.
In the past I instinctively shot darker with the exposure composition down 2/3 of a stop but in the future I will watch your videos to get time tested techniques. I watch to the very end to get the top tips!
@@GordonFRegan Thanks Gordon!
Your videos are incredible. Concise, explained so simply, structured well and with perfect images to accompany and explain what you're describing. My favourite photography RUclipsr by far I'm learning so much. Keep it up!
Thanks very much!
I watch lots of photography videos and I think yours are the most useful. Short, easy to understand and loaded with valuable information. Keep it up.
EC and Auto ISO are my favorite digital controls. Beats spending a week in the lab calibrating new film batches to a handful of light meters and varying minutes of push/pull processing, cool/warm baths, etc.
You deserve all the love you get on this channel. All of your tips are extremely helpful and are put into a simple-to-understand format. Thank you for what you do on this channel.
Happy to help!
In the past, I held the belief that achieving a perfect photograph necessitated maintaining an exposure value of zero. Consequently, I meticulously ensured that the exposure was set to zero before capturing each image. However, I am grateful for the insights provided in the video, as they have enlightened me to the benefits of experimenting with different exposure settings, particularly in challenging lighting conditions such as excessive darkness or brightness.
It's so obvious when reminded of the basics. I think you do an excellent job, especially educating "the likes of me" to the basics most important to remember or explore in more detail. Nice job.
I got into photography pretty young and didn’t take any formal lessons. I just learned about the three bases pretty much (ISO, SS, aperture). I primarily shoot in the harsh mid-day lighting because I’m a student and I don’t always have time for the early or late night trips. Embarrassingly, it took me about five years to realize (1) you don’t need to use manual all the time for good photos and (2) exposure compensation makes a world of difference, especially shooting in midday.
Simon very well said. Most RUclips so-called photographers are guilty of spreading false information.
I make manual changes in my settings to correct for the camera meters' shortcomings.
And by:
Subtracting light for a black or darker than 18% grey.
Adding light to a white or a lighter than 18% grey.
Correcting my cameras automated exposure compensation features.
It's a simple matter of taking a guess shooting, then checking your cameras RGB histogram and adding or subtracting more light.
And with todays mirrorless R5 a color histogram can be displayed in your viewfinder making this easier than ever.
Something no other Camera manufacturers offer, other than Canon
I have a Rebel T3 with the 18-55 mm kit lens because someone gifted it to me. This is all I have and my only learning tool because I'm 100% a beginner. But even without money or resources, I can't thank you enough for all the information you share in your videos because that this is the way Im learning. Thanks!
Simplest explanation for exposure compensation..!!! Super helpful. Cheers
Others may have mentioned it but I use spot metering especially for birds in a tree or other scenarios. There is still the issue of blown highlights as you expose for the bird and not the surroundings but sometimes I want to make sure the bird is good as that is the main subject.
Love your channel, Simon. Your tips are always helpful & your presentation is straightforward & easy to understand. An excellent photographer & an outstanding teacher are you, Simon. Thank you.😊🙏
Man, you are a Pro's Pro. Your gear list made my day, as did these tips. THANKS! What a great location for a nature photographer.
Other setting to help your camera make the right decision is the metering mode. Using spot or centre weighted metering will help getting the subject well exposed.
I have a whole video on metering covering all the modes
As usual, a well-presented survey of a key element of photography -and an illustration of how human intelligence trumps the artificial kind- reinforcing stuff I've learned by stumbling around. Thank You ...
This is now my go to photo education channel. Absolutely awesome content, delivery and execution. Thankyou.
Omgosh, I so love your channel, you make photography less daunting and above all concise! Excellent educator, so glad I have been following you for a while!🍻
Great explanation, so simple and so succinct. Well done, thank you.
Loved the bonus tip, I will be working on this. I regularly use the compensation dial, but will now try to remember saving the highlights. Again thank you.
Extraordinary time and value of yours in putting it together to give such a good explanation.thank you
As usual, you're always making observations on the most important topics.
Thank you very much! 🙏🏽🙏🙏🏿
You the man Simon! A pearl among all the channels mostly just reviewing new gear 🙂 Could you consider making a video about how professional photos we can achieve with a budget camerasystem, like your M50 and some decent glass for it? Thanks!
M50 on my 500mm f4 is in the works!
Once again, nicely done! I appreciate the concise presentation. I usually set my camera up before I do a walk just to get a general idea of the exposure and I am ready to go. Although that sounds awesome, as you know when you move one way or another, the availability of light changes, that is where trouble begins. But life is not perfect, and neither is the changing light. Thank you once again.
Hi Simon, I'm new to the world of photography but your videos have helped me👏
That's awesome!
I make it a habit when taking the memory card out to process I check the EV and reset. Thanks for the tips!
Thank you for another excellent video
Thank you you refreshed my memory 😊❤
One important thing to note is that EC *does* work in full-manual mode (even without Auto ISO), though perhaps in a different way than some people are used to. Using EC in full-manual mode (FMM) will allow you to offset your in-camera meter by whatever EC you dial in. For example, let's say you meter a scene and set your exposure settings to 1/200, f/7.1, ISO 100, which shows a perfect "0" in your meter (meaning it is balancing image scene to the 18% grey). If you were to now to dial in +2/3 stop of EC, your in-camera meter will now show this scene as being -2/3 dark. You would have to adjust your exposure settings by 2/3-stop to brighten the exposure in order for your meter to read "0" again. In the example above, you could adjust shutter speed to 1/125 (keeping other settings the same), which would now show as being neutral/0 exposure in your meter.
This feature is really handy, even in FMM, since it allows the shooter to "offset" the "0" in the meter, allowing for consistent exposure value changes to be made. I do this frequently in sporting events where LVs can change depending on the player location in the field or in situations where I know the meter is reading consistently BUT is still over/underexposing. A good example is when players are wearing white jerseys on a sunny day, where I will take a few test shots and see where the meter is settling at, set my EC to compensate, then I can adjust exposure settings as needed (such as a high shutter speed, large aperture for action shots), while getting consistent EVs.
I also do sport photography and i have been having difficult to shoot at hash midday sun. I guess one tip is to use Ev -1 in auto iso to eliminate bright white. Any tipo? Thanks in advance
I'm confused because as far as I can tell on my rebel t7 there is no way to even change the exposure compensation on manual mode
@@FlanTravolta i guess it the AV botton on canon t7
i cant do it in my nx300, no such things too in olympus, i used em5 mk2.
EC in full manual mode in many camera mean dial the ISO or offset the ISO, since you already set the aperture and shutter, the only left is ISO from the exposure triangle.
@flantravolta yeah, on my A7III I cannot change EC, only if I set ISO to auto in M mode or any other auto mode. In FMM the dial just does nothing.
All of your videos keep me glued to the end. I’m going to be a self taught photographer by you at this point. Thank you.
Great to hear!
Thanks for your excellent videos. I’ve been bumbling around with exposure compensation for the bird against sky issue for a while now but the concept finally makes sense to me. Keep the great vids coming!
As someone who's been taking amateur photos for awhile now but recently invested in better gear and wants to step his game up, your videos have been the absolute best here on RUclips. Very concise, informative, and easy to digest. You're doing incredible work here and I'm really grateful for that!
In a similar situation here! With how good Smartphone photography has become, I cant just brute force it with miles better picture quality in DSLR. Truth is that their software is better than most of us amateurs so we gotta bring in true skill to keep the edge.
Simon I just found your channel last week. I already watched all videos available here. Good job my friend 👏
Having learned Minor White's version of Ansel Adam's zone system years ago I sometimes run into difficulty with today's sophisticated camera exposure systems. In Ansel's day you picked the area of the composition you were going to expose for and took a reading. The result told you the exposure required to render that area Zone 5 or middle gray. You then added or subtracted the appropriate number of stops to render that area the zone you wanted it to be. Today's far more sophisticated cameras contain massive data bases of images with a wide variety of contrasts and deliver exposure results based upon the database scene that most closely match the current composition. This means that the camera is "doing the thinking" for you based upon some very complex calculations. If you continue to use the same techniques appropriate for the old style meter systems the results will often not be what you expect.
Thank You sir, I have been subscribe since I first discoverd Your fantastic Video's I always learn a lot, and still learning. Learning about expsoure compensation when shooting Manual which I do 99% of the time has been a major eye opener. That, and paying attention to metering both have greatly improved my keepers in regards to exposure, and Your Video's on Focusing has greatly increased the percentage of My Keepers. Very happy to see this new Video posted. I look forward to each new one. Have a very nice weekend.
I have totally done this. Forgot to check the EC from the previous session and completely blown out the first few photos.
Oh ok, that explains why I couldn't figure out what exposure compensation does, didn't know you have to switch off manual mode
Thank you so so much for all your wonderful videos! Your explanations and pictures are so easy to understand. You are an excellent teacher! (And this is coming from a (special education) teacher.) Your photos are gorgeous and your lessons are extremely helpful!
I shoot Canon mirrorless... R & R5. I use Fv mode where I choose shutter speed and aperture. I use auto ISO with my histogram showing in the viewfinder. I set the Fv to adjust exposure compensation and I can just roll my front dial left and right watching the histogram to just touch the right side. Fv (mode) + EC + ETTR = Success for me.
Thank you Simon great information here. In addition do you have the white balance on auto?
I do!
I shoot with a crop sensor mirrorless, and I normally have my exposure compensation meter underexpose by a third of a stop. Thank you for the video!
Starting every session check ALL your settings, you know they were left perfectly selected, but were they 😱
Ah, exposure compensation finally explained! About time! Thanks for demystifying it!
Any time!
I had a Mk1 7D, I spent 10 years ETTR ( exposing to the right ) because I was told there’s more details in the right hand side of the histogram ( as long as you didn’t blow the hi-lights ) than the left. Also the 7D was extremely bad at recovering shadow without introducing major noise. My walk around settings in AV were F7.1, ISO 800 with plus 1/3 of exposure compensation.
Now with a R6, I shoot in TV, I select my F stop and leave the camera in auto ISO. I keep my shutter at around 1/1250 sec with my 500/4, this gives me more keepers than before.
This is exactly what I needed to hear. Your videos are so helpful👌🏼
Great tips and advice. Thanks.
thank you very much for the information and lessons, easy to understand and practice.
This. I still use my Fuji X-T10 in full auto but it has a dedicated EC dial, which I finally started using this summer. Just found this video and I can confirm it's a great piece of advice.
Edit: I always felt that camera over-exposes, so now I can compensate 1 or 2 clicks by default. Results look great now.
Good choice!
Great advice. I'm definitely going to start using this more.
Another great video, thank you!
Thank you Simon. Explains why making adjustments to other controls to impact/manipulate the photo towards a better Histogram balance is not working for me. And then during editing, with the Histogram as a reference, the best I can do is return the picture to the same blown out or crushed condition. Masking and lightning crushed darks (like on an American Coot) is really teaching me how powerful the sensor is. But still can't do anything about a blown out white belly of a shorebird. I hope I got this right understanding your video. I've always wondered what the exposure compensation really does and hoped it's really not that important, LOL.
Hello, Simon. I recently discovered your channel and subscribed right away. Your videos are a valuable source of information, presented in a very easy to follow, concise manner. I have learned a lot so far and look forward to continuing to learn with your future content. Take care.
So helpful!
Really great explanation with clear examples. Thanks again.
You're very welcome!
Very informative. Thanks
Wow, such an important topic to discuss! I photographed the kids playing at stadium, and the background was lit uneven at different part if stadium, and I got several shots overexposed whed green trees were in background, and underexposed photos when the background was the white building.
...it would be good to see you out in the field a bit more...it's been a while.....appreciate the tips....have learnt a lot.
I will!
It might be self evident for photographers, but when I first started shooting in RAW, it was like entering a magic world where I can just change my mind in the comfort of my home about the brightness of shots already taken. It's so easy to fix pictures that are supposed to be too dark.
Yeah but just remember, you can't fix a blown out (over exposed) photo in post.
Fuji’s dynamic range protection (they read out the sensor simultaneously at 200, 400, 800 is great insurance
Sony sensors seem to do this above iso 640 and there’s An almost absurd ability to lift shadows below ISO 2400 in stills
On my Panasonic G90 I use the front dial wheel for exposure compensation, that is a life (or rather photo) saver.
Greetings from Finland!
What a great no bullshit-channel thank you!
Great video - I know I've left my exposure compensation high or low and only realized it when shooting. I make a point now (most of the time) of checking before starting to shoot for the day. Good tip about underexposing by a bit.
Most of my photography is landscape or architecture so my subjects dont move. Therefore my main consideration is depth of feild. I almost always use full manual photography and push the exposure as high as possible to the right without blowing the highlights. I do have two issues to be aware of. When I shoot with a polariser filter the monitor shows that the exposure is correct, however it is always underexposed by at least one stop. The histogram live view is not greatly helpful in these cases. So if the shutter speed is not an issue I idecrease it. If it is I push the iso up. I am more than happy to shoot with a high ISO.
The other issue is a constant problem on this trip. The sky is totally overcast and the subject is dark (a bit like your bird on a branch example). I try and have as little sky as possible when conditions are like this. I end up taking loads of pictures at different settings to get the exposure I want. After getting my first picture how I want it this are easier on subsequent pictures. Using the SCN option works, but and it is a but the picture changes from RAW to JPEG. It also slightly changes the picture so I give the subject more space to breath.
I learn about all the photography terms from ur channel.. Its easier to understand everything u said now than before... Will u make a video about "how far u can under exposure or over exposure when shot in RAW?" Im curious..
i plan to make a video soon in dynamic range. That should cover that topic.
Another amazing video! Thank you for everything you do! I know your niche is specifically for teaching all things photography. At this point, you have been very successful in a short period of time. Most creators make a video regarding their success, how they did it or something along of how they make their videos. That would definitely something that myself and many others would like to see. You are very interesting, so would be nice to know a little more about you behind the scenes.
It's almost from the first videos Simon posted, that I follow him every time he teaches us something that can help us overcome a problem. As for knowing, there are some specific videos where you can see him "hunting" alone or with other photographers and you can get to know him also through them, as well as in the office.
@@carlomaule I have seen some of those, but I am mentioning a specific type of video about producing this content. What he goes through to teach us is also an amazing feat. A behind the scenes of what it takes to bring his world to use would be an amazing thing to watch.
We are all very lucky to have people like him in this world to help us without asking anything in return. He shares the most critical thing anyone can, KNOWLEDGE! To see that in the making, that would be something special.
I use the old hand-held meter sometimes😀
Another video that explains something in a detailed way but also in a way you understand. I do have a question though. You say unless you shoot in manual you need to know about exposure compensation. However as a long time viewer I know you shoot in manual. But on this video you talk of using the exposure compensation in three click per stop. So my question is....do you use exposure compensation in manual mode. As always many thanks for your time and help.
I do as I often use auto iso, which can use exposure compensation. .
@@simon_dentremont Ah that explains it.....many thanks
You are hands down the best informed photographer who conveys information easily and freely. This is my go to channel for photographic mastery, thanks for all your efforts!
i often use use -.3 or -.6 ev, if you have an iso invarient Sensor this is a real thing
my dashcam runs at -1.3 it is easy to recover then have a blown out license plate
Helpful! Thanks
Random thought: by chance was that black box at @2:35 your Silver RUclips play button box? :D
Haha ya!
@@simon_dentremont Nice... I thought so. I finally opened mine up the other day, but for a couple years I just saw this same box sitting on my shelf. So it was high up in my pattern recognition brain section :D
Thank you, Simon. Well illustrated, well explained. The idea of deliberate under exposure to capture maximum details is very useful. Can you make such videos for mobile phone cameras?
Noted!
Simon, great info as always. Thank you.
great video, I use full manual with auto ISO but with - 2thirds stop compensation as my T7i tends to overexpose...
Good advice to reset EC when starting. I'd go one step further: Decide on your own "default baseline configuration" and reset the camera to that after each session. That way, if you have to pick it up in a hurry, you have a good starting point. For my shooting and camera, I reset to ISO 100, f/7.1, 1/100, manual mode and single shot each time (been burnt a time or two waiting two seconds for the shutter to fire). It would be nice to be able to define such a state and restore it with a single button push. Who knows, maybe a Real Camera 🙂can do that... but not my little T8i / 850D.
This helps! I enjoy too much running out and getting more photos after getting some great photos the day before and then end up clobbering all my new attempts with the "old" settings still in effect. 😆
Now that all of the settings are controlled electronically by the chip(s) there are all sorts of things cameras could do it the manufacturers simply thought to build the feature into the firmware. A one button reset to the users' preferred defaults in addition to resetting to factory defaults is obviously one of them. More advanced models do allow you to set a bunch of custom modes that use your preferences for things like what buttons do what, exposure and focus zones and settings, but I'm not sure if they reset things like exposure compensation each time you select them. Since I've also got a T8i I can tell you that the custom settings do include one that will automatically cancel exposure compensation when you turn the camera off manually. It doesn't do it if the camera powers down because you haven't done anything for your predefined time, so you don't lose the compensation you want if the camera powers down because you don't push any buttons for a while.
godsent video. Thank You.
You're welcome!
Great video
GREAT video, VERY informative. Thank you so much. I just got a new camera and I was wondering what that button was for. :)
Simon! You’ll never believe what happened to me! I saw a bald eagle in a tree swoop down right in front of me to catch a fish.. I was in prime position and my camera froze because it couldn’t write the files to my card fast enough!! Uggg.. I have a rebel t7… im so mad.
oh dear!
I've taken that completely underexposed bird-on-a-branch photo like eight thousand times.
Haven’t we all!!
I just shoot in manual mode 99.9 percent of the time. Even auto ISO is just another auto mode, and it always seems to let me down when I use it. It only seems to work if you are shooting in dense areas where no backlight leaks in and blows out the exposure. I almost never use auto WB, either. The results are usually poor, except in normal non-shaded daylight. I do always shoot with -1/3 exposure comp, but it's probably mostly psychological. I just manually underexpose when there is risk of blown out whites, which can happen frequently. And I constantly check the histogram, because the LCD view is often deceiving as well.
On the Canon 7D2, the button shown in this video at ruclips.net/video/j8xQ8WiI7rk/видео.html is for flash compensation/ISO. In modes M, Av and Tv; when using auto ISO, you can hold down the "SET" button and use the top wheel for exposure compensation. Some customization is allowed but not for the flash compensation/ISO button.
AEB cannot be used on moving subjects and you must use a tripod with the camera timer or remote shutter release to eliminate any movement.
I'm new to photography (recently graduated from a point-and-shoot) and my main interest is railfanning. Since getting a DSLR, I have experienced exposure problems particularly when focused on the front of an oncoming locomotive which presents you with super bright headlights and ditch lights (mandates by law). Perhaps I should try spot metering and focus on the nose or some point away from the lights. Some of the results almost look like I tried to shoot at night even though it was the middle of the day.
I understand the need for Exp Comp for any other mode besides Manual, but having trouble understanding its use in Manual mode. If an image looks too light or dark for your intended use, can you just increase/decrease S,A, ISO etc.? How would Exp Comp come into play in this scenario?
I always found better results underexposing, at least 1/3 or 2/3 if there are a lot of contrast, especially if you don't want little parts of the faces overexpossed becacuse of direct sunlight or something like that, not to mention the sky representation... or just go for a cpl filter for landscape/outdors and it brings that underexposure, especially in light zone of the histogram
How would I know if the camera thinks it’s too dark or it’s too bright so I don’t adjust the wrong way. Sometime I feel like it’s the background or the object that I need to make the adjustment based on. This is a very helpful video coming from Canon R6. Thank you.
I use Nikon Z 50 and for me the photos look best when the exposure is set to +0.3 - this is the first step up. sometimes it gives +0.7 but rarely. I wanted to compare the photos and see how it affects the noise, but I don't know how exactly to do it.
Just to add on to your last point, Dynamic Range (Fuji) and Auto Lighting Optimizer (Canon) will under-expose in camera and protect the highlights for you, at the cost of some added noise similar to raising the exposure yourself in post.
This is why I use centre weighted average, and sometimes bracket my photos if I'm struggling to guess how many stops to adjust the comp.
Also, the mirrorless don't always give true exposure settings, such as when you half press to focus it will brighten the scene to help with focusing. A handy feature with M focus macro lenses with x2 magnification where flash is needed.
I’m confused. You said for insurance purposely under expose, but I had just finished watching your video about exposing to the right.
Under expose to the right
You can expose to the opposite of whats most likely going to clip. When it's dark, over expose to keep noise down, and when it's bright, under expose to make sure the whites don't clip. Or bracket your shots and hdr merge them if time and opportunity permits
Yes. Because you can fix the picture in post (editing) if it’s underexposed. But if it’s overexposed it’s unusable data😌
He said he underexposes in certain situations, like on a sunny day, not always.
@@jeffersonreyes301Not true. If its underexposed too much you will have pure blacks that contain no data, just as overexposed photos have pure whites that contain no data. You want to expose to the right (ETTR) just short of clipping the whites so you can recover data from the darker end of the histogram (shadows), but too far in either direction causes a loss of data
Super helpful!
Gracias
The sunny 16 rule is old as dirt like me 😂 but it still helps to avoid over or under exposure, again like me it's not perfect🤣but it works 😊
LOVE this vidéo ,because i am guilty to not think about adjusting compensation when i take picture this help thank you
I like to do exposure bracketing of about 1stop on my test photos...sometimes ill shoot with ⅔ bracketing on overcast days
I think for absolute beginners the most important thing is when to do this. Do we do this for each photo or only when the scene completely changes?
when the scenechanges
i used to under expose , but now in post processing i do use linear response curve and this has a better preservation of highlights and more similar to back LCD RAW file from the start, linear response reduce by 1 stop or more the shoot taken, so i don't underexpose anymore my photo
Simon, you are a great teacher and know your craft very well. I have been shooting in manual for many years. Three years ago ,I got a EOS R with electronic view finder. I can set my aperture and ISO and use my thumb wheel to change the shutter speed and watch my histogram and the change in the exposure when I change a setting. I could never do this with my old 6D which by the way took amazing images !The EOS R does not have a dedicated exposure compensation button so I basically do the same shooting in full manual.
Compensating takes too long, I move left or right of the subject and lock the exposure with a button and do it that way, takes no time at all. Partial or spot metering is really good for this.
Excellent and informative video as always 👍