Nice one RJ! I'm old enough to remember trying to work out how to do stuff on bikes following line drawings and manual descriptions. Online video is so clearly superior to that, and you're the world's foremost exponent of it. Thanks and keep up the great work🙏😀
I was so bummed because I snapped the end off of one of my nice hex sockets. I never thought to just dress it on a bench grinder. I think I'll get more life out of it!
Did you consider using a extra 3/8 extension? I was removing a transmission from a 66 Volvo once and there was no room to swing the ratchet handle in the trans tunnel. I rounded up every 3/8 extension I had. That moved the ratchet about two feet or more rearward and I had plenty of room to swing the ratchet handle.
your a lifesaver. i assembled bikes back when toys r us was still in business and you helped me keep my job. love your work. love your insights and techniques to assembling.
great job RJ! Usually I just use good quality 1/4" extension bars. They usually come as 3-piece set and I can stack them to reach very deep place. But this is way better.
@@RJTheBikeGuy think it'd have work with a 1/4" socket but as yours was a 3/8 that's why it didn't fit. BTW why did you cut it only 7" long and not use the full length of the t handle you've cut?
Great idea but why not cot it off as close to the handle as possible, that way you have enough length if you need to dress up the end after so many times using it, plus it still looked short because the socket disappeared.
@@RJTheBikeGuy but with my luck the anlen wrench would jam and when trying to take it back out the 3/8 to 1/4" adapter would come apart and that would be a nightmare trying to get it back out.. I would want the 1/4" socket above the forks in case I had to grab it with a pair of pillars
He can still use the short piece of the 5mm wrench with the handle after squaring off the end that he cut. A short 5mm Allen wrench with a nice handle will be useful for many things.
Although JB Weld is a good product, I don't it will hold up in the long run. I would consider welding the socket on or drill a hole through the socket and hex stem and insert a pin through it. You can just peen it down with a hammer.
Dear RJ: You - Sir, are a goddamn genius, this solution is both innovative but born out of the necessity and lest we forget the natural ability to resolve problems - creatively. It is simply ~ ‘de rigueur,’ of every branch of engineering and design. Thank you - RJ; I watch, digest and wait, with bated breath, for every one of your videos, they are the equivalent modern bellwether of an all-encompassing educational content. You are the greatest. rObt
hi! nice tool. i made my 5mm allen with a 3/8 drive 3/16 hex socket + a mapp torch to heat the tip of the socket and hammer it down (never a press). no epoxi. you can also weld a 5 mm allen to a piece of round stock and make a "t", use 309 rod or silver solder. take care
My extra long 6mm hex socket was too big. I could barely reach the bolt with my really long 5mm T wrench. It fit, but was not really doable to remove the bolt.
Great and simple hack. For anyone interested, Wiha and Cyclus Tools make 350mm long T-handles for about 8 euros each. I've used them for this purpose and they work great. But, I have no idea about availability in US.
A 5mm hex shaft. So, what are you going to use? A 1mm drill bit to drill through a hardened steel socket, and a hardened steel shaft? Good luck with that.
Apart from what has been said already, J-B Weld is tough stuff. Never failed on me. If you're worrying about this, just use the regular J-B Weld instead of Kwik Weld (which RJ apparently used as he mentioned it's fully cured in 4-6 hours as opposed to regular J-B Weld, which takes 24 hours).
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Nice one RJ! I'm old enough to remember trying to work out how to do stuff on bikes following line drawings and manual descriptions. Online video is so clearly superior to that, and you're the world's foremost exponent of it. Thanks and keep up the great work🙏😀
I was so bummed because I snapped the end off of one of my nice hex sockets. I never thought to just dress it on a bench grinder. I think I'll get more life out of it!
Too expensive ,ill stick to my chopped alen key(or torx ,you can even weld a bit )welded to a all threaded rod with 2 counter nuts at end.
01:40 Why cut it down to 7" when you can only cut away the plastic handle? You may not need the extra length right now, but you never know when…
The longer the shaft, the more it will twist under torque. I didn't want it too much longer than I needed.
Did you consider using a extra 3/8 extension? I was removing a transmission from a 66 Volvo once and there was no room to swing the ratchet handle in the trans tunnel. I rounded up every 3/8 extension I had. That moved the ratchet about two feet or more rearward and I had plenty of room to swing the ratchet handle.
I had to go through a small hole, and reach a bolt about 6 1/2" down inside. An extension has nothing to do with it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Even between say the ratchet and the longer extension, outside the fork tube?
I am making a fork overhaul video. Watch that video as I explain.
How about grinding a hex into a long screw rod?
Nice. Every mechanical problem has a simple solution. (most of the time)
I bought one online for 3 quid
Here I am looking alllllll over the place for a good set of hex socket. Your the best man
I ended up buying a Bondhus 5mm T-handle hex wrench with a 12" blade to deal with exactly this problem.
Why not just use more 3/8" extensions to get down there? Or is there some restriction making that impossible.
your a lifesaver. i assembled bikes back when toys r us was still in business and you helped me keep my job. love your work. love your insights and techniques to assembling.
Previous video/version was for 6mm, this one is for 5mm, same concept/idea, but a good one! 👍💯
great job RJ! Usually I just use good quality 1/4" extension bars. They usually come as 3-piece set and I can stack them to reach very deep place. But this is way better.
They still wouldn't help the socket fit through the hole to reach the bolt.
@@RJTheBikeGuy think it'd have work with a 1/4" socket but as yours was a 3/8 that's why it didn't fit. BTW why did you cut it only 7" long and not use the full length of the t handle you've cut?
Great idea but why not cot it off as close to the handle as possible, that way you have enough length if you need to dress up the end after so many times using it, plus it still looked short because the socket disappeared.
The longer the shaft, the more it will twist under torque.
@@RJTheBikeGuy but with my luck the anlen wrench would jam and when trying to take it back out the 3/8 to 1/4" adapter would come apart and that would be a nightmare trying to get it back out.. I would want the 1/4" socket above the forks in case I had to grab it with a pair of pillars
He can still use the short piece of the 5mm wrench with the handle after squaring off the end that he cut. A short 5mm Allen wrench with a nice handle will be useful for many things.
hello from France ! it's my way of life !
Although JB Weld is a good product, I don't it will hold up in the long run. I would consider welding the socket on or drill a hole through the socket and hex stem and insert a pin through it. You can just peen it down with a hammer.
LOL
Where there’s an RJ there’s a way
Hey loving uploads!!
Nice video, very informative 👍
Mantab. Ide bagus
Dear RJ: You - Sir, are a goddamn genius, this solution is both innovative but born out of the necessity
and lest we forget the natural ability to resolve problems - creatively. It is simply ~ ‘de rigueur,’ of every
branch of engineering and design.
Thank you - RJ; I watch, digest and wait, with bated breath, for every one of your videos, they are the
equivalent modern bellwether of an all-encompassing educational content. You are the greatest.
rObt
hi! nice tool. i made my 5mm allen with a 3/8 drive 3/16 hex socket + a mapp torch to heat the tip of the socket and hammer it down (never a press). no epoxi. you can also weld a 5 mm allen to a piece of round stock and make a "t", use 309 rod or silver solder. take care
Thanks RJ, you've made some really great tools - for headset assembly and cotter pin removal as well! This one is a very fine idea!
👍👌
How did you know you need 5mm hex for that socket?
My extra long 6mm hex socket was too big. I could barely reach the bolt with my really long 5mm T wrench. It fit, but was not really doable to remove the bolt.
My friend made one he has made a set screw n the side because he switches length. But he states if you loose the little set screw it just falls out
I made a spoke key out of some metal plate and hacksaw going to try make some cup and come spanners
Great and simple hack.
For anyone interested, Wiha and Cyclus Tools make 350mm long T-handles for about 8 euros each. I've used them for this purpose and they work great. But, I have no idea about availability in US.
Thanks!
My DIY hero
Love this. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you, sir
Good job. I would have considered drilling through the socket and shaft and putting a pin through the assembly in case the epoxy fails
A 5mm hex shaft. So, what are you going to use? A 1mm drill bit to drill through a hardened steel socket, and a hardened steel shaft? Good luck with that.
Apart from what has been said already, J-B Weld is tough stuff. Never failed on me. If you're worrying about this, just use the regular J-B Weld instead of Kwik Weld (which RJ apparently used as he mentioned it's fully cured in 4-6 hours as opposed to regular J-B Weld, which takes 24 hours).
Very inventive. Good video.
My mentor!
How did you measure how long the shaft needed to be?
By sticking a rod into the fork and feeling for the top of the plunger, and then into the plunger to the bolt, and finding the difference.