Marine Grease is far more better than White Lithium Grease, I've used Marine Grease for 8 years straight on my bushings on my Devinci Remix 2, even though I ordered a new bushing kit back in summer 2016 when I was asked what I used to grease the bushings I simply said "Marine Grease". My bushings really didn't need to be replaced cause there wasn't any signs of wear or erosion but I had them replaced even though one bushing (drive side) was crushed. Marine Grease is "THE BEST" when it comes to lose bearings in axles and headsets, I'll be enjoying my trail bike for many years down the road...
By taking the mystery out of how many of these repairs should be done, you have motivated me to work outside my comfort zone. Things I would never have considered possible for me in the past, I'm not afraid to tackle anymore. Keep doing what you're doing. In addition to that you have saved me a lot of money. And . . . . . , I've made friends I wouldn't have made before. I was pulling into a picnic grove one day to take a lunch break. There was a young guy sitting at a picnic table intently watching something on his phone. I was a good 30-40 feet away from him but I could hear your distinctive voice so I said, "Hey, you're watching RJ the Bike Guy, aren't you?" Next thing you know we're comparing bikes, parts, experiences, your video, hints and notes, etc. It was the highlight of my day!
RJ, the generous sharing of your immense knowledge of all things bike is a gift. Thanks so much... you have gotten me out of many pickles this year and taught me so many new procedures. Very grateful.
Nice job, RJ!n. I saw that someone suggested heating up the freehub to allow Phil's oil to more easily penetrate the freehub mechanism. I do something similar. Heat up a pan of water till it boils. Turn off the heat and take the pan off the burner. Put the bottle of Phil's Oil in the heated water for several minutes. At this point, Phil's oil will flow much better into the freehub mechanism. I do the same thing when lubricating freeWHEELS after they've been thoroughly cleaned by soaking in a solvent. (No need to take the freewheel apart.)
Great video. I am new to the channel but have been working on bikes for over 50 years. One tip to get the bearings in easier is to partially insert the axle and drop the balls in by hand . Once they're in go to the opposite side and check all is well spinning the axle using the cone end against the balls. Also have found using two cone spanners on opposite sides of the hub with the locknut finger right is easier to adjust the axle for play . You want it just a little tight, then as you tighten the non drive cone against the locknut the axle frees up a touch with no play or stiffness.
OMG I literally had this problem the other week after having my bike serviced, I noticed it would chain slap and I assumed my chain might have been longer than needed because I had it replaced and the mechanic said he had to reduce the number of links but I forgot to count the number I had and here I am finding your video with what is actually happening with it!
Thanks RJ! You're a saviour. I knew right from the start when I read the title that you have the solution, made myself a coffee and enjoyed your work. I was regreasing my hubs and the extra grease seemed to gunk up the freewheel and the chain was going slack when backpedaling. I managed to clean the freehub with disc brake cleaner which should be some kind of mineral spirit based solution. It dries extremely fast and since it's a spray it can penetrate the freehub nicely. My bike runs smooth again! Thanks again!
Handy tip: A lot of free hubs require an 11mm allen key. However, you can use a 3/8" square drive extension bar from a socket set if you don't have that... it fits perfectly.
I wish I read this comment instead of just watching the video before I ordered 10 and 12mm allan keys. Once I took my wheel apart one was too big and the other too wee 🤦🏽♂️😑 .. Just my luck 😂.
RJ, as a person who lives to ride and loves to restore and modify, I want to say that your depth of knowledge is amazing. Your vids have helped me through so many times when I was bummed out over a bike issue. I can always find the answer with you. God bless and keep on keepin on.
or...if you're in a time crunch, just get some carb cleaner and blast everything you see. That's what I did, and chain snapped back tight when I stopped pedaling. I'm sure the carb cleaner was a temp fix, and tearing apart the hub/bearings is the ultimate fix. Thanks for the video...!!!
Nice job RJ ,and Happy Holidays to you. Having wrenched for several years to support my racing habit (many moons ago) I say, 'Right on". Agree with everything you showed and you showed it well. Just to add a couple bonus points I've picked up: I also use a marine "paste", with MoS2 but I found originally it seemed to thicken the colder it got so now I add 2-3 drops of 3-in1 to each race before I close it up. Same with the cranks. Both Dura-Ace. Also, about adjusting cones: I'll allow a slight bit of play, and have found that tightening the skewers compresses the cones together a miniscule amount, usually just enough to take out the play. It's about as free-spinning as you could want while keeping constant contact with the bearings. A racing tip. Thanks for sharing.
@RollinRat in my experience, cartridge bbs are useless. Stiff to turn when new, a brief period of Good, then play develops...I use "vintage" bb spindles with cups and loose balls. I only asked because so many people rage about great quality wheel hubs but then accept in a bb what they would NEVER accept in a wheel hub.
RJ: Great instructional video. These are so helpful to home bike mechanics and a godsend to many in the cycling community. I keep a vintage road bike on the road because of you. Please keep up all the great work on your channel (great production values) as your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks again.
Video was very helpful. I had no idea what the cause if this problem was on my bike. I was able to spray it with WD 40 without taking it apart to fix freewheel. Then dripped in oil with tube to reach bearings. This resolved the issue. I have a 47 year old schwinn continental 10 speed.
What a coincidence. Went on a Christmas morning ride today and noticed my chain going slack when I backpedaled. I thought that was normal. Looking forward to servicing the freehub now. Thanks RJ!
Excellent video, I'm going to fix my freehub, but one little thing when placing back your wheel, put it on the ground so you know its in correctly and it's not misaligned with the brakes and such
Funny story: My Allmountain Enduro's old rear wheel had a bad freehub body on it and it did have a tendency to get stuck while riding, often leading to me stomping into a whole lot of nothing while trying to pedal for a short boost. There were a few times where this almost caused me to crash but I was lucky and got away with it. To fix that I opened up the freehub body and cleaned it thoroughly before putting it back together, but the problem persisted. I ended up taking out the thinnest of 3 washers in there (and I may or may not have watched 1 of ur other videos to learn how to dis- and reassemble a freehub body) and while that gave the freehub body some very slight play on the hub it finally freed it up enough to not get stuck anymore. It was only meant to be a temporary solution tho since I was planning to replace the wheels anyway. Now that I have indeed replaced the wheels with a NOAhubs custom wheelset and also replaced the old 3x9 with a 1x9 drivetrain with a much bigger cassette it turns out I'd better make sure to keep the new derailleur's clutch engaged since the massive new cassette takes a moment to come to a stop as I stop pedaling abruptly and puts a small but noticeable amount of slack on the upper bit of chain, then gets turned backwards slightly from the tension in the lower bit of chain and yanks the cranks back slightly as the upper bit of chain tensions again and stops the cassette's backward spin. With the clutch engaged it's noticable but not problematic, with the clutch disengaged it starts to get somewhat worrying. Kinda fun to play with while freewheeling tho. I guess I should look for a lighter cassette when the time comes to replace the current one.
I did this with a bike recently. The only difference is that I soaked the freehub in petrol overnight rather than use wd-40. Great video as always man 👍
You make the cone adjustment look easy. I always struggled with it on these old school hubs. One note, when you were blowing compressed air, the wheel was right under and you could have gotten some WD-40 on the braking surface.
Hello RJ, Subscribed for over a year. Watching your video today which indeed is a Christmas gift because I've been wondering what caused chain slack on back pedaling and thought it was the derailleur. Thanks very much and Merry Christmas.
I’m an old pro at freehub maintenance. Get a rubber stopper that plugs the hole in the removed freehub body. Then you can really blast out all the old gummy stuff with compressed air. With the stopper in place, fill the bearing cavity with 75w-90 automotive gear oil (I use Mobil 1 75w-90). Set fh body upright on a towel. When oil soaks through, pour out the excess, wad up a paper towel inside, turn fh body upside down to allow excess oil to drain out. Wipe it clean, reinstall on the hub, and finish. I find Phil oil too sticky, especially in cool/cold climates. Lighter gear oil is superior for this. And it’s cheap!
I have this exact problem. It manifests itself when coasting in the small cog in which case the chain gets pushed forward and starts flopping around. I thought it was just weak springs on the RD but after replacing the RD a couple of times, I can see that it's the hub sticking. I like how you boldy go and completely disassemble the freehub, but in my experience, once I start messing with the bearings, the result is never as good as it would be with a brand new hub, and so when this happens, I just replace the hub. By the time things start to go wonky like this, the inside of the hub is probably pitted badly so replacing the bearings might work for a while but eventually it will start to wobble again.
Haven't seen you in a while RJ. All the best for the New Year! That 40Nm torque is important. I've seen the locknut come undone and it can ruin your day.
I hope to see some bike builds again I loved the bike builds you did I especially like your 1 by gravel bike build RJ!! I hope to see some bike builds in the future!!
I ended up making a tool to open it up, I like to rebuild them as some of them the bearings aren't healthy, pitted and or rusted bearings can make it sound horrible, in your case it's a newer bike so what you did was definitely sufficient enough!
I have seen year old bikes get chunky because there was very little grease installed from the manufacturer. Winter storage seems to bring that issue to light.
Thanks for the video, very informative if you need to do a full flush. However, I had the same problem and was able to spray WD40 into the freehub which resolved it without the extra steps shown in the video. I'd suggest trying the quick fix first then resort to extra steps if required.
Try hypoid gear oil. It is the type that oil that goes into the bevel gear in the rear wheel of a shaft driven motorcycle. It'will cost for a litre probably the same as a tiny flask of Phil's Tenacious and the like. Very thick oil, works like a charm. Anyways, good to see you back RJ ! Best holiday wishes from Holland !
Good job RJ. Fred from RCB . Well done with all of the detail. I have broken down the cassette to its parts. There are a million tiny bearings inside. Lot of work and bearing counting to do that. A good spray to remove grit and grease is Shop Solv from Castle Chemicals. As a chemist I’ll say great degreaser spray but highly flammable.
Here at 2:55 it is stated and shown that the freehub body mechanism requires oil, and _not_ grease since grease is too thick. However, in the freehub disassembly video linked here, we see you greasing parts of the mechanism like the races for the tiny bearings. I saw the older videos first, made my 21mm socket tool & greased my Exage freewheel mechanism as shown there. Now I notice it stops right away indeed. So, should I degrease it and apply some oil instead? I'm at a loss. Sorry for reviving the comments and thank you in advance!👍Inmensely helpful videos.
Great informative video. I'm wondering if you have done a video on how to properly refill the hand held grease gun? I have two and I can't seem to get them to work right after refilling them. They are a pain to do properly and to ensure all the air is out of the chamber. If you haven't done one, could you? Like your other videos I think many of your subscribers would find it helpful. If you have done one, please direct me to it, thanks.
By sheer coincidence I did this yesterday [Christmas day] for the first time ever. The 10mm hex step I think I missed though but I took out the pawls so I think I succeeded in the end!?
Blimey mate, just thinking about you a few days ago and wondered where you'd gone!!! You're well and safe. Excellent. Great post as always. Merry Christmas to you and yours Ian, Birmingham, England
My bike is brand new and I’ve only ridden it a few times. It already does this. Wow. I don’t know anything about bikes and thought I was pedaling wrong somehow.🤪
i found an old abandoned huffy, looked like it sat through a flood, that was doing this. after cleaning and generous wd40, it had improved only a little, so i looked up this vid. i was not looking forward to taking it all apart and finding new bearings for a beater bike, wasn't sure i had all the right tools, either. thankfully, in the time it took to watch the vid, the last blast of wd had penetrated and lubricated enough to stop the problem. so sometimes it does work without doing the breakdown
Hi RJ, in my case the chain went slack back pedalling because the set screw that holds the the rear derailler in place was rubbing against the cassette and stopping it from turning when back pedalling. I loosened the screw until it didn't rub against it and that stopped the chain from going slack.
I saw something that had me scratching my head on Wheelers at Large. They undid the through axle and removed an end cap, and off came the cassette and freehub together. Apparently Hope and DT Swiss cassettes are retained by the dropouts! I carry the Stein tool and extra spokes on longer tours, but it wouldn't work on a carbon frame.
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button 🛑 and click the notification bell ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Marine Grease is far more better than White Lithium Grease, I've used Marine Grease for 8 years straight on my bushings on my Devinci Remix 2, even though I ordered a new bushing kit back in summer 2016 when I was asked what I used to grease the bushings I simply said "Marine Grease". My bushings really didn't need to be replaced cause there wasn't any signs of wear or erosion but I had them replaced even though one bushing (drive side) was crushed. Marine Grease is "THE BEST" when it comes to lose bearings in axles and headsets, I'll be enjoying my trail bike for many years down the road...
By taking the mystery out of how many of these repairs should be done, you have motivated me to work outside my comfort zone. Things I would never have considered possible for me in the past, I'm not afraid to tackle anymore. Keep doing what you're doing.
In addition to that you have saved me a lot of money.
And . . . . . , I've made friends I wouldn't have made before. I was pulling into a picnic grove one day to take a lunch break. There was a young guy sitting at a picnic table intently watching something on his phone. I was a good 30-40 feet away from him but I could hear your distinctive voice so I said, "Hey, you're watching RJ the Bike Guy, aren't you?" Next thing you know we're comparing bikes, parts, experiences, your video, hints and notes, etc. It was the highlight of my day!
RJ, the generous sharing of your immense knowledge of all things bike is a gift. Thanks so much... you have gotten me out of many pickles this year and taught me so many new procedures. Very grateful.
Same.
I love the patience you have to explain all the steps even though he obviously has done it thousands of times! A genius bike mechanics!
RJ!!!!!!! Man I cant even express in words how much your videos have helped me dude!!! Im stoked to see you back with another video!
Nice job, RJ!n. I saw that someone suggested heating up the freehub to allow Phil's oil to more easily penetrate the freehub mechanism. I do something similar. Heat up a pan of water till it boils. Turn off the heat and take the pan off the burner. Put the bottle of Phil's Oil in the heated water for several minutes. At this point, Phil's oil will flow much better into the freehub mechanism. I do the same thing when lubricating freeWHEELS after they've been thoroughly cleaned by soaking in a solvent. (No need to take the freewheel apart.)
Great video. I am new to the channel but have been working on bikes for over 50 years. One tip to get the bearings in easier is to partially insert the axle and drop the balls in by hand . Once they're in go to the opposite side and check all is well spinning the axle using the cone end against the balls. Also have found using two cone spanners on opposite sides of the hub with the locknut finger right is easier to adjust the axle for play . You want it just a little tight, then as you tighten the non drive cone against the locknut the axle frees up a touch with no play or stiffness.
RJ is the best bike maintenance/ repair channel out there. No extra bullshit, 100% solutions and clear descriptions
OMG I literally had this problem the other week after having my bike serviced, I noticed it would chain slap and I assumed my chain might have been longer than needed because I had it replaced and the mechanic said he had to reduce the number of links but I forgot to count the number I had and here I am finding your video with what is actually happening with it!
ruclips.net/video/ELsKrgTt0oY/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks!!
Thanks RJ! You're a saviour. I knew right from the start when I read the title that you have the solution, made myself a coffee and enjoyed your work.
I was regreasing my hubs and the extra grease seemed to gunk up the freewheel and the chain was going slack when backpedaling.
I managed to clean the freehub with disc brake cleaner which should be some kind of mineral spirit based solution. It dries extremely fast and since it's a spray it can penetrate the freehub nicely. My bike runs smooth again! Thanks again!
Handy tip: A lot of free hubs require an 11mm allen key. However, you can use a 3/8" square drive extension bar from a socket set if you don't have that... it fits perfectly.
The hub shown in video is a shimano, chances are it will take 14mm allen key.
I wish I read this comment instead of just watching the video before I ordered 10 and 12mm allan keys. Once I took my wheel apart one was too big and the other too wee 🤦🏽♂️😑 .. Just my luck 😂.
@@craigmartin8766 We've all been there!
RJ, as a person who lives to ride and loves to restore and modify, I want to say that your depth of knowledge is amazing. Your vids have helped me through so many times when I was bummed out over a bike issue. I can always find the answer with you. God bless and keep on keepin on.
or...if you're in a time crunch, just get some carb cleaner and blast everything you see. That's what I did, and chain snapped back tight when I stopped pedaling. I'm sure the carb cleaner was a temp fix, and tearing apart the hub/bearings is the ultimate fix. Thanks for the video...!!!
Going to try this first. I just want to ride and I don't have a lock tool right now
Cue tips (cotton buds in Australia) are good for getting into those 'hard to get at' places like the bearing race.
Glad to see you on here!
Nice job RJ ,and Happy Holidays to you.
Having wrenched for several years to support my racing habit (many moons ago) I say, 'Right on". Agree with everything you showed and you showed it well.
Just to add a couple bonus points I've picked up:
I also use a marine "paste", with MoS2 but I found originally it seemed to thicken the colder it got so now I add 2-3 drops of 3-in1 to each race before I close it up. Same with the cranks. Both Dura-Ace.
Also, about adjusting cones: I'll allow a slight bit of play, and have found that tightening the skewers compresses the cones together a miniscule amount, usually just enough to take out the play. It's about as free-spinning as you could want while keeping constant contact with the bearings. A racing tip.
Thanks for sharing.
@RollinRat but do you use cartridge bearing bottom brackets?
@RollinRat in my experience, cartridge bbs are useless. Stiff to turn when new, a brief period of Good, then play develops...I use "vintage" bb spindles with cups and loose balls. I only asked because so many people rage about great quality wheel hubs but then accept in a bb what they would NEVER accept in a wheel hub.
Welcome back. Man, the amount of money you've saved me over the years! 🙏🏾
RJ: Great instructional video. These are so helpful to home bike mechanics and a godsend to many in the cycling community. I keep a vintage road bike on the road because of you. Please keep up all the great work on your channel (great production values) as your efforts are much appreciated. Thanks again.
Video was very helpful. I had no idea what the cause if this problem was on my bike. I was able to spray it with WD 40 without taking it apart to fix freewheel. Then dripped in oil with tube to reach bearings. This resolved the issue. I have a 47 year old schwinn continental 10 speed.
What a coincidence. Went on a Christmas morning ride today and noticed my chain going slack when I backpedaled. I thought that was normal. Looking forward to servicing the freehub now. Thanks RJ!
Same
Excellent video, I'm going to fix my freehub, but one little thing when placing back your wheel, put it on the ground so you know its in correctly and it's not misaligned with the brakes and such
Funny story: My Allmountain Enduro's old rear wheel had a bad freehub body on it and it did have a tendency to get stuck while riding, often leading to me stomping into a whole lot of nothing while trying to pedal for a short boost. There were a few times where this almost caused me to crash but I was lucky and got away with it.
To fix that I opened up the freehub body and cleaned it thoroughly before putting it back together, but the problem persisted. I ended up taking out the thinnest of 3 washers in there (and I may or may not have watched 1 of ur other videos to learn how to dis- and reassemble a freehub body) and while that gave the freehub body some very slight play on the hub it finally freed it up enough to not get stuck anymore. It was only meant to be a temporary solution tho since I was planning to replace the wheels anyway.
Now that I have indeed replaced the wheels with a NOAhubs custom wheelset and also replaced the old 3x9 with a 1x9 drivetrain with a much bigger cassette it turns out I'd better make sure to keep the new derailleur's clutch engaged since the massive new cassette takes a moment to come to a stop as I stop pedaling abruptly and puts a small but noticeable amount of slack on the upper bit of chain, then gets turned backwards slightly from the tension in the lower bit of chain and yanks the cranks back slightly as the upper bit of chain tensions again and stops the cassette's backward spin. With the clutch engaged it's noticable but not problematic, with the clutch disengaged it starts to get somewhat worrying. Kinda fun to play with while freewheeling tho.
I guess I should look for a lighter cassette when the time comes to replace the current one.
wow, that's a lot more work than I expected. Amazing detail, thanks so much
I did this with a bike recently. The only difference is that I soaked the freehub in petrol overnight rather than use wd-40. Great video as always man 👍
The one and only is back!!!!
Great that you are back
Wow perfect timing, I have this exact problem on an old Stumpy I'm fixing up! Thanks Mr. Bike Guy!
You make the cone adjustment look easy. I always struggled with it on these old school hubs. One note, when you were blowing compressed air, the wheel was right under and you could have gotten some WD-40 on the braking surface.
Merry Xmas, Mr. RJ! And To All My Fellow Bike Riders!✨✨🚴🏼♂🚴🏼♀
thanks rj your a mind reader came across this today with a old bike and wasnt too shore what to do but now i am ,,,,many thanxs yor a genius!!
Finally, the content we've all been craving.
thanks for the practical solution, much easier than prying the whole hub open and grease..
Hello RJ,
Subscribed for over a year. Watching your video today which indeed is a Christmas gift because I've been wondering what caused chain slack on back pedaling and thought it was the derailleur.
Thanks very much and Merry Christmas.
All is good in the universe again. RJ the bike guy is back!
Another satisfied customer! Thanks for making my life a little easier😊
As l don't have Phil oil, I use SAE140 gear oil. Merry Christmas, RJ!
You always do a great job!! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year’s to you and your family!!
RJ the Man. I seen the notification for your vid and stopped what I was doing to watch it. Awesome video sir as always.
The perfect Christmas present…RJ is back online! 👏
Another good and thorough educational video, welldone and thank you, enjoy a fantastic season.
Welcome back RJ
Very happy to see you again
this is the only channel where i give instant thumb up without watching the video first
I’m an old pro at freehub maintenance. Get a rubber stopper that plugs the hole in the removed freehub body. Then you can really blast out all the old gummy stuff with compressed air. With the stopper in place, fill the bearing cavity with 75w-90 automotive gear oil (I use Mobil 1 75w-90). Set fh body upright on a towel. When oil soaks through, pour out the excess, wad up a paper towel inside, turn fh body upside down to allow excess oil to drain out. Wipe it clean, reinstall on the hub, and finish.
I find Phil oil too sticky, especially in cool/cold climates. Lighter gear oil is superior for this. And it’s cheap!
I have this exact problem. It manifests itself when coasting in the small cog in which case the chain gets pushed forward and starts flopping around. I thought it was just weak springs on the RD but after replacing the RD a couple of times, I can see that it's the hub sticking. I like how you boldy go and completely disassemble the freehub, but in my experience, once I start messing with the bearings, the result is never as good as it would be with a brand new hub, and so when this happens, I just replace the hub. By the time things start to go wonky like this, the inside of the hub is probably pitted badly so replacing the bearings might work for a while but eventually it will start to wobble again.
Merry Christmas to you and yours RJ.👍😊
Haven't seen you in a while RJ. All the best for the New Year! That 40Nm torque is important. I've seen the locknut come undone and it can ruin your day.
Quick tip: if you heat up your freehub, he thick oil can sneak easier into it.
I hope to see some bike builds again I loved the bike builds you did I especially like your 1 by gravel bike build RJ!! I hope to see some bike builds in the future!!
Welcome back man
Excellent video. Explained the symptom and the remedy in a concise way. I think I can do this now.
I ended up making a tool to open it up, I like to rebuild them as some of them the bearings aren't healthy, pitted and or rusted bearings can make it sound horrible, in your case it's a newer bike so what you did was definitely sufficient enough!
I have seen year old bikes get chunky because there was very little grease installed from the manufacturer. Winter storage seems to bring that issue to light.
damn, i love these bike repair vids!
happy christmas
hi rj keep up the good work
Still THE bike guy, love this channel!
Glad to see you back.
Great attention to detail RJ..!
Thanks for step by step videos...🙏
This is so much fun... Sometimes you have to dismantle the freewheel alltogether and that's where the real fun starts :D :D
The one and only is back.
Good job and merry christmas.
I Miss the Huffing and Puffing RJ. Thank You for the vids 😁❤️
Good to see you back 👍
Thanks for the video, very informative if you need to do a full flush. However, I had the same problem and was able to spray WD40 into the freehub which resolved it without the extra steps shown in the video. I'd suggest trying the quick fix first then resort to extra steps if required.
Thanks for this video. I think this is my issue on my bike. I am gonna try it later on.
Very well filmed and explained…excellent tutorial. Thanks so much for posting..I’ve subscribed! 👍👍
Thanks so much for doing these videos.
I definitely have a sticky freehub.
I will attempt this fix. Thanks.
Even tho I’ve no vice at home.
I love this, honestly I´m a little tired of watching high end bike builds and upgrades.
Phil oil is unobtainable here in Italy, I'll go "Finish Line Wet Conditions" a try, it should be tenacious likewise. Great video!
You want something thicker.
Have you tried ebay? I bought some there.
@@RJTheBikeGuy thanks for your kind answer, I'll follow your advice
@@stevenwaller3020 thank you very much, I'll try ebay, amazon italy says unavailable
Try hypoid gear oil. It is the type that oil that goes into the bevel gear in the rear wheel of a shaft driven motorcycle. It'will cost for a litre probably the same as a tiny flask of Phil's Tenacious and the like. Very thick oil, works like a charm. Anyways, good to see you back RJ ! Best holiday wishes from Holland !
Merry Christmas RJ!
My go too guy as always 👍 thank you RJ!
Another great video best bike shop i' will ever find i have learned so much many thanks.
Great video, to the point and no excess bs, thanks
RJ is back!!!
Good job RJ. Fred from RCB . Well done with all of the detail. I have broken down the cassette to its parts. There are a million tiny bearings inside. Lot of work and bearing counting to do that. A good spray to remove grit and grease is Shop Solv from Castle Chemicals. As a chemist I’ll say great degreaser spray but highly flammable.
I have done that also.ruclips.net/video/X9gIEG1db0s/видео.html
Here at 2:55 it is stated and shown that the freehub body mechanism requires oil, and _not_ grease since grease is too thick. However, in the freehub disassembly video linked here, we see you greasing parts of the mechanism like the races for the tiny bearings.
I saw the older videos first, made my 21mm socket tool & greased my Exage freewheel mechanism as shown there. Now I notice it stops right away indeed.
So, should I degrease it and apply some oil instead? I'm at a loss.
Sorry for reviving the comments and thank you in advance!👍Inmensely helpful videos.
Great informative video. I'm wondering if you have done a video on how to properly refill the hand held grease gun? I have two and I can't seem to get them to work right after refilling them. They are a pain to do properly and to ensure all the air is out of the chamber. If you haven't done one, could you? Like your other videos I think many of your subscribers would find it helpful. If you have done one, please direct me to it, thanks.
Nice seeing you upping a vid again :) happy holidays
By sheer coincidence I did this yesterday [Christmas day] for the first time ever. The 10mm hex step I think I missed though but I took out the pawls so I think I succeeded in the end!?
Blimey mate, just thinking about you a few days ago and wondered where you'd gone!!!
You're well and safe. Excellent. Great post as always.
Merry Christmas to you and yours
Ian, Birmingham, England
My bike is brand new and I’ve only ridden it a few times. It already does this. Wow. I don’t know anything about bikes and thought I was pedaling wrong somehow.🤪
Merry Christmas RJ. Stay healthy and safe
Nice to see you back ..long time ago
Thank you very much it's so help full so the hub are the problems I thought it was the RD
RJ, do you maybe know how to weld?
If maybe yes, can you please show us how to weld?
Another great video thanks RJ. and happy holidays.👍
If Fletch taught me anything its that It's ALL ball bearings nowadays! =)
Bravo!
Great camera work.
Merry Christmas ❤️🎄also I have done similar vidios like this any way you are the real bike guy......
Great job, RJ.... 👍
i found an old abandoned huffy, looked like it sat through a flood, that was doing this. after cleaning and generous wd40, it had improved only a little, so i looked up this vid. i was not looking forward to taking it all apart and finding new bearings for a beater bike, wasn't sure i had all the right tools, either. thankfully, in the time it took to watch the vid, the last blast of wd had penetrated and lubricated enough to stop the problem. so sometimes it does work without doing the breakdown
He is RJ the bike guy!
Always great and informative videos
Wish you a merry christmas and a happy new year 🎉
Hi RJ, in my case the chain went slack back pedalling because the set screw that holds the the rear derailler in place was rubbing against the cassette and stopping it from turning when back pedalling. I loosened the screw until it didn't rub against it and that stopped the chain from going slack.
Great video, Merry Christmas! 🎄 🎅 🎁
Merry Christmas! 🔥🎄🌫️
Excellent my brother
never had that problem but will watch video just in case
This RJ for sharing - great stuff!
I also have this same problem with my mtb I hope to get it fix soon
Exelent content. Really useful👍
I saw something that had me scratching my head on Wheelers at Large. They undid the through axle and removed an end cap, and off came the cassette and freehub together. Apparently Hope and DT Swiss cassettes are retained by the dropouts! I carry the Stein tool and extra spokes on longer tours, but it wouldn't work on a carbon frame.
Awesome video