Hello @RJ The Bike Guy I have a Radac frame that has a steel seat-stay and chain-stay. I believe that joints that connect steel and aluminium tubes are also made of steel. Can I safely do this or this will cause damage to aluminium parts of the frame?
I realize this is an old video, but just wanted to give kudos and thanks to RJ. I combined this threaded rod cold setting technique with the “string” alignment check (continuous checking during the spreading) followed with dropout alignment using RJs homemade tool. My 1984 Miyata is now 2x10. Thanks a million RJ.
I have done many of these, including from 120 mm to 135 mm, to use a wider axle for batter spoke tension equalization from left to right for a stronger wheel. A couple of tips: If the right side chainstay is crimped for chainwheel clearance, it will usually bend and set sealer than the left chainstay, which will pu the frame out of alignment. Watch carefully and and adjust accordingly. To check frame alignment, the mice park tool is not needed. Use a long piece of string or thin bungee cord tied from the surface of one dropout, around the head tube, and back to the corresponding surface of the the other dropout. Now you can check frame alignment by measuring from the string or cord to the seat tube on both sides. The measurements should be equal.
You just saved me a whole heap of stress. I almost gave up on a motorized bicycle project. I ordered these really nice mag wheels with a built in sprocket but they were way to wide for the fork. I already had the engine on and everything so I couldn't lay the bike on its side and do the board method. Seriously man ..from the bottom of my heart thank you so much
I built the tool for $5 and spread my frame from 120mm to 130mm and it worked perfectly. Put the new 130mm wheel in and it is dead center. Thank you sooooooo much!
I have upgraded my bike from 126 to 130, added a 8 speed mega range 11-34 cassette, the recommended shimano derailer and everything went smoothly, my bike get a 15 years upgrade of technologie and it's insanly agreable to ride now. Would thank you RJ for all your videos that made this possible.
I built and used your cold setting tool. Super simple. 3/8" x 12" all thread, 6 3/8" nuts, 2 3/8" washers. Increased the hub spacing from 120mm to 126mm. I've been riding it with a 6-speed freewheel squeezed in, so it was 122mm and it ended up almost 127mm. Slid in easily. Took me more time to clean up the threads on the all thread with a die than to actually cold set the frame. Many, many thanks. Next, I'm gonna build your dropout alignment tool.
Thank you so much. You just saved me a hundred Canadian. I was about to have dropouts respaced by a bike store, but after watching your tutorial I was able to do it myself. I do owe you a pint!
I did this exact method after watching this video and it worked amazingly! I opened up 70s fuji frame from 126-135. I had to open it up to 170mm and that's what got it to set at 135. Afterwards, I brazed disc mounts onto the frame and some cable guides and it held the spacing. Thanks for this video!
Thanks--this video doesn't say how much you have to expand the frame to get it to bend, so I thought that just a little bit would work. It didn't. Thanks for the tip!
@@scottbiggs8894 tbf if you watch the video he explains how you have to move it so its much wider than the intended result and explains how you have to do it bit by bit to get it right. Also obviously every frame is going to be different. Sooo yeah the video had all the detail you needed
Does this method also apply to a front fork that is still from a 10-speed trying to do a 27 to 700c conversion I was wondering can you cold set the front drop outs on the fork as well
Perfect, thank you RJ. As a makeshift frame alignment guage, I took a spirit level/ straight edge and rested it against the head tube and dropout. I then measured the gap between the straight edge and the seat tube... The gap was quite different each side of the frame, so I adjusted this to be the same to put the frame into alignment. By increasing one side, this was also just the right adjustment to accommodate the new wheel 👍
Thank you so much for what you do! Your videos on this topic helped me convert a cherished steel frame I received from a friend to a modern 10 speed fun machine (10 speed as in ten sprockets on the cassette). My girlfriend helped me during the shaft & nuts method of cold setting the frame and it was an fun and engaging activity for the both of us. Thanks again for what you do!
I have old broked alloy rims so I disassembled the hubs and uses their axles to expand the thin steel tubes that's so easy than expand the tubes with your hands first I tried with hands but I failed then I uses your technique and make it easy. Thanks " RJ the bike guy ". You are great mechanic.
I've used the 2x4 method a few times. I just tried the threaded rod method. It's much better. It was quicker and easier and more accurate. Thank you very much.
I need to do this but in reverse. I have a steel frame mongoose fatbike with 190mm rear dropout standard, that I wish changed to 175mm fatbike standard. The threaded rod method is the most precise method I've yet seen to DIY this. Kudos to RJ the bike guy
Rob Bastien I to have a vintage Peugeot and I’m doing the same thing, how many gears were you able to fit on the rear tire after expanding it, also did you change the bottom bracket or is it still a French bottom bracket?
The threaded rod is my favorite method. But to avoid possible cracks at the bridges, I put around them cheap coil springs compressors that I thighten just enough so they don't move.
Thanks RJ. Just beat back the wife's attempts to make me buy a Walmart bike and picked up a used steel Gary Fisher and I bought a Specialized about a year ago and let it lay ( low end Specialized Hard Rock from the 90s but it is butted chromoly ). Funny thing is the wife said she wanted a bike like the one she used to have, another Specialized steel frame, so she intuitively liked the steel but just didn't know why ( I ruined that one with a botched fork replacement but let's not talk about that ). I quite fancy putting a single chainwheel on one of them and something modern at the back and you just showed me how to do that. My family doesn't understand multiple chainwheels so the simplification is appealing. Cheers!
Dude, you're godsend! I'm from Russia, I'm watching both yours and VeloLab bike workshop's videos, learning something new every day! Soon I'll be able to fix my own bike by myself :)
Thanks for the Video, Sheldon Brown of RUclips! For my Columbus SL Frame without a chainstay bridge it didn't do anyting from 126 to 160mm. When setting it to 165 it became 127 and at 170 it became 127.5. Then at 175 it became exactly 130. Think next time I would go in even smaller steps after the first movement because I think I was quite lucky to nail it exactly.
Thank you thankyouthankyou a million times thank you. I'm currently rebuilding an '86 RockHopper and hadn't realized it would not fit my previous build's wheelset which I was planning to swap. Saved me a lot of trouble. Maybe I'll post an overview video when in a few days. Thanks again, you are who makes youtube beautiful. Ride on man!
Cool. I like the threaded rod method. I also like upgrading vintage roadbikes. I'm making a 2x9 of an old 10 speed, and just did the frame. Inspired of your videos. :)
How are you doing since the accident? I hope things are going well. I just spent 3 weeks with a pinched Sciatic Nerve issue, and I've never felt pain like that in my entire life; and it's not over. All the doctors want to diagnose over a video conference ! Give you magic beans, and see ya. Nobody does their job any more. I can't imagine what you might be going through. i wish you the best because you're The bike guy. That video made my day. I came up with the same solution while converting a beach cruiser to an electric gear-less hub motor electric bike. I also had to convert it so that it had disc brakes. This was a Pee Wee Herman style bike that I rode on the trails; as to not be seen... It had red tires, swept back handlebars, with a basket on the front, and brakes that required you to pedal backwards. As a kid... That was the safest thing in the world. It worked every time. Then they came up with cable pull brakes, that always failed in the rain... And then disc brakes with all the complications and expense of those. I could , not for the life of me.... figure out how to get my brain, at 62 years old to understand the pedal backward, (Safest, most reliable brake in the world). So many years have gone by and how many people have suffered from inadequate brakes ? The problem needs to go away. It was the first e-bike that I did with such a style conversion. As i was building it, I did the same thing that you did. Kinda made me proud that i came up with the same solution as R.J. The Bike Guy ! You've been such an inspiration over the years. Straight forward, honest, work.... and it is work. Videos don't make themselves and you don't fast forward through the unexpected things that can happen. You take the time to cover all the important information in detail. With simple explanations that anyone can understand. I don't know how you feel about electric bikes, but the more things change, the more they stay the same. All the tips, tricks, and techniques you offer in your videos still apply to electric bikes. The main difference is in the cost and the fact that electric bikes require better braking power..... which is a serious concern. They are heavier. They also require torque arms so that the wheel; which has a lot of torque won't just fall out of the mounting bracket. Been there, done that. More embarrassing than anything. Probably looked pretty funny though. Learned i didn't have the tools handy and had to do the walk of shame back to get the tools. Learned something. Don't be afraid of change. We don't like to change. Always keep learning and Take the Change with You.
Thank you for your time and common sense approach. Score one for metal frames which I prefer over aluminum or carbon fiber. I like a plain work horse bike not one that cost as much as a used car.😊
Thank you so much! Worked great! I spreaded my SLX-Frame from 126 to 130 - but need 170mm to do so. I worked it up from 145 but untill 160 i had basically no changes. I also removed the two screws in the Hanger to do all this.
Threaded rod is my preference too. No risk of putting your back out of shape pulling on bars! People, remember to keep your back straight when lifting! For the gauge, an even cheaper method is a taut string tied to the dropouts and passed around the head tube. Measure alignment at the seat tube.
This is a very risky operation intended only for professionals with appropriate knowledge! Some people claim that it is not even necessary to permanently bend the rear forks from 126 mm to 130 mm and that you can only press in the wheel with a new hub, expanding the forks elastically. But the hooks should be parallel, so they would have to be bent. That's exactly what I did on my bike, only bending the dropouts because I didn't want to damage the 3-speed 120 mm hub, inserting it into the frame with a 114 mm fork spacing instead of the usual single-speed torpedo, manually expanding the steel forks within the elastic limits.
Very Helpful As Usual RJ The Bike Guy I'm Doing this to my 1957 Dunelt Which Had A Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Hub To Put A 120mm Fixed/Freewheel Rim on it So I Got To Go About 8mm out Which Won't Bother Those Old Hardcore Frames, Just Have To Take My Time And Do In A Few Increments At A Time. The Front Forks I Had To Go From 90mm To 100mm I Did It Gently Yet Firmly By Hand a Little At A Time They Work Now.
Thank you for these videos, I just finished converting my 6-speed 122mm to a 130mm 8 speed, modern wheel. I used a bit of the 2x4 lever method and the threaded rod.
I like this video. One of the key things it showed me was how much steel can bend without actually breaking. RJ bent the frame by 34mm in order to deform the frame by 4mm. The elasticity of steel makes cold setting unnecessary, I'd prefer to just force the 130mm hub into the 126mm dropout, works fine for me.
Indeed, you are right, and you've changed my mind, I'm going to cold set my frame to 130 tomorrow 😃 I was doing some research on cold setting steel - it's a perfectly normal thing to do. When manufactures of steel frames join the tubes together, using very high heat, sometimes the resulting frame is not completely aligned. To get around this, they simply bend the metal at room temperature, the posh word for this is cold setting. Steel is happy to be bent into shape at room temperature. Your 1980's lugged steel frame has probably already been cold set during manufacture !
I made a gauge out of rectangular stock, 3/4" x 1 3/4" stock tubing, 42" long. I drilled a hole 1" from an end (through the wide side) and JB welded a small 10-32 on both sides of the hole with a 3" bolt installed..... With this you can put it on the frame (head tube and down tube) but the end goes to the inside of the frame-stays and you measure the bolt to the dropout on the "inside" or "wheel side"of the dropout with the wheel off. Had the scrap tubing, 56 cents for nuts, washer, and bolt.....I have a normal gauge, but this is handy when the wheel is already off, like when you are buying just a frame, keep it in my van, works like a charm.
I tried this method carefully for a few hours on an old Marinoni with Columbus SL tubing. Wouldn't widen at all - came back to 125mm after every effort to separate the stays (had it up at ~165mm a few times). I ended up using a piece of wood and some muscle - done in 2 minutes.
I had an old Specialized Stumpjumper frame resized to 135MM in Portland back in the 1990s. The shop used a Park tool & I never had any problems -- wish I had kept that bike 😭
great video RJ ..i crashed a while ago flying of my carrera hustle bike converted to a ebike....well since then the brakes ( hydraulic ) have been playing up ... only need around 3mm to sort this out .....
Thanks for sharing, works great but I had to resort to the plywood method for fine tuning the alignment at the end. My frame was much easier to bend than I had expected!
I have two steel bikes where direct drive hub motor conversion wheels won't work fit with my aluminum frames. The direct drive motors fit in the dropouts fine without cold setting the frames. It's like cold setting was meant for steel frames.
Hey RJ! If you want 9-10s give a bit more spacing of the hubs because of the derailleur alignment i have a 24er bike and the derailleur its offset with the hubs spacing it always touches the 7speeed chain at the frame
After buying a new wheel rim, I discovered it was actually wider than the old one. This worked. But I have to note that you must widen the frame considerably more than this guy implies. I spread the frame to 165mm to "stretch" it to fit a 130mm wide wheel. This is because the steel wants to snap back to its previous size.
I'm going to attempt this tonight. My threaded rods came in the mail today. My question is, how far can I stretch these? I need to make these very wide to accommodate mag wheels with motorized bicycle sprocket and disc brakes...as well as the 7 speed freewheel
It worked. It worked really really really well. But the real test came when I rode it to work. It held. So glad I found this channel. My livelyhood depends on that bike. If I can't get to work I can't live. The bike gets me there...and this video got me on the bike. Thank you
@@jackbtlr My frame is for 7 speed so its 126mm. I stretched it out to 130mm to accommodate 10 speed Tiagra 4700 drivetrain. During the process I reached 140, then 150, and 160mm in each tries (because chromoly has that elasticity in it) until I reached 130mm.
Out standing videos 👍👍👍 buddy good information to know this is what I needed to know how to do this fore my EBike rest fork was a little bet short rubbing on wheel axe now I can fix it wow Nice 👍👍👍 take care stay safe out there from Alaska 🤠
Great video! I have a Dahon 20” chromalloy front fork with 74mm o.l.d. I want to open it to 83mm to fit a hub motor. Do you thiink this would be safe to do with this threaded rod technique?
I added a motorized mag wheel which was a wider wheel because of the sprocket gear and disc brake I was able to get it to stay put so now the rim fits fine
Did this about five years ago and recently discovered a crack in the frame around the chainstay, it's clear the rear triangle spreading created extra stress in that area. Didn't fail catastrophically for me but it could well do for someone, so I can't recommend this procedure. Just get a wheelset you can remove spacers from to take it down to 126mm.
The frame builders and mechanics at the place I used to work at were far less mechanically sympathetic than the method in the video and we didn't experience these problems. Perhaps just unlucky.
Recently discovered your videos. They are very informative and you explain and demonstrate everything very clearly. Really appreciate all the effort. Bike On!
@@electricburning this ended up working, but my chain ended up rubbing on the frame. i picked up a good looking but cheap frame for around $150, including a carbon fork. would rather repurpose old parts :(
You can try to pry the hub in using a screw driver. My hub doesn't fit because the nut on the hub exceeded the frame. Using the screw driver you can pry it in
I've recently tried this with my old Voyageur SP for an upgraded hub. Apparently the steel is too strong (Columbus Tenax frame) because, while it does spread, it goes back to the original spacing. I guess I'll try the SB method next. Thanks for all your great videos!
Hi great vid thanks I got 177mm rear dropout but the rear hub is 150mm I need to close the dropout by 27mm by the way frame is very thick and heavy steel frame is it safe to do the job with treaded shaft and nut and washer and tighten till I get to the right size?
3x axle in the full length of 135 mm I'm adding a rear disc brake on a motorized bike well basically about 130 mm somewhere right in there so one side is going to have a hub adapter for a disc brake on his sprocket with the motorized mag wheel
Thanks RJ, easy to follow and feels much safer than the wooden block method to control of the amount of bending. 1987 Raleigh Granada tourer frame now ready for new wheels and more gears! A pack of 5 300mm M10 threaded roads with nuts and washers is a great addition to the toolkit, pressing bearing cups, dropout alignment, frame cold setting, and more?
Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for to use my old Raleigh steel frame racer (126mm) with a smart trainer like the Wahoo Kickr or Tacx Neo 2T.
Thanks RJ, first saw Sheldon Brown's but your method much better. I understand as long as frame is already aligned. With the new wheels, I should be able to reduce the laughs at my 1990 steel Swinn. :D
What if you put your fixed nut configuration in the center of your threaded rod between the two chain stays… by using your vice grips and holding from the center you could use two separate wrenches and open each side 1 to 100 turns precisely and evenly.… Or whatever it took. As long as the frame was straight before you began, theoretically, you wouldn’t need to check it again. Even though you probably should.
Also, this center fixed idea I espoused above, Actually allows someone to choose one side getting more opened than the other…In the case some thing was off-center to begin with.
Very informative video! I was wondering if there was a way to also adjust the hub spacing on my old rigid front fork, because I cant fit my quick-release hubs on it. I hope you can reply to this, thanks!
Thank you so much for this rj more powers and be safe always very helpful because i want to convert my bmx into 8 speed set up and i dont no what to do so that i see this very helpful video i will do this tommorow to see if works. and i will comment again :).
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Can i cold set a Frame smaller?
I have a 130mm Steel Frame and want to use a 120mm Track Wheel
@@levischmitz8288 why not using some washers as inserts instead of straining the frame...????
Hello @RJ The Bike Guy I have a Radac frame that has a steel seat-stay and chain-stay. I believe that joints that connect steel and aluminium tubes are also made of steel. Can I safely do this or this will cause damage to aluminium parts of the frame?
@@johnjerizlopezignacio3891 If you have a composite frame, I would not recommend doing this.
Can this be done in opposite with a modern steel frame, reduce from 130mm to fit vintage groupset?
I realize this is an old video, but just wanted to give kudos and thanks to RJ. I combined this threaded rod cold setting technique with the “string” alignment check (continuous checking during the spreading) followed with dropout alignment using RJs homemade tool.
My 1984 Miyata is now 2x10. Thanks a million RJ.
I have done many of these, including from 120 mm to 135 mm, to use a wider axle for batter spoke tension equalization from left to right for a stronger wheel. A couple of tips: If the right side chainstay is crimped for chainwheel clearance, it will usually bend and set sealer than the left chainstay, which will pu the frame out of alignment. Watch carefully and and adjust accordingly. To check frame alignment, the mice park tool is not needed. Use a long piece of string or thin bungee cord tied from the surface of one dropout, around the head tube, and back to the corresponding surface of the the other dropout. Now you can check frame alignment by measuring from the string or cord to the seat tube on both sides. The measurements should be equal.
Thanks for the tip
Gracias por el economico consejo 🙂(Thanks for the cheap and practical advice!)
this is the exact thing i was looking for thank you
Extra value from reading the comments...thanks for great tips.
You just saved me a whole heap of stress. I almost gave up on a motorized bicycle project. I ordered these really nice mag wheels with a built in sprocket but they were way to wide for the fork. I already had the engine on and everything so I couldn't lay the bike on its side and do the board method. Seriously man ..from the bottom of my heart thank you so much
same here! 👍
I built the tool for $5 and spread my frame from 120mm to 130mm and it worked perfectly. Put the new 130mm wheel in and it is dead center. Thank you sooooooo much!
I have upgraded my bike from 126 to 130, added a 8 speed mega range 11-34 cassette, the recommended shimano derailer and everything went smoothly, my bike get a 15 years upgrade of technologie and it's insanly agreable to ride now. Would thank you RJ for all your videos that made this possible.
I built and used your cold setting tool. Super simple. 3/8" x 12" all thread, 6 3/8" nuts, 2 3/8" washers. Increased the hub spacing from 120mm to 126mm. I've been riding it with a 6-speed freewheel squeezed in, so it was 122mm and it ended up almost 127mm. Slid in easily. Took me more time to clean up the threads on the all thread with a die than to actually cold set the frame. Many, many thanks. Next, I'm gonna build your dropout alignment tool.
Thank you so much. You just saved me a hundred Canadian. I was about to have dropouts respaced by a bike store, but after watching your tutorial I was able to do it myself. I do owe you a pint!
I did this exact method after watching this video and it worked amazingly! I opened up 70s fuji frame from 126-135. I had to open it up to 170mm and that's what got it to set at 135. Afterwards, I brazed disc mounts onto the frame and some cable guides and it held the spacing. Thanks for this video!
I've heard that brazing disc mounts onto steel frames puts stress on the frame that it wasn't built to handle. How's is it holding up?
Thanks--this video doesn't say how much you have to expand the frame to get it to bend, so I thought that just a little bit would work. It didn't. Thanks for the tip!
@@scottbiggs8894 tbf if you watch the video he explains how you have to move it so its much wider than the intended result and explains how you have to do it bit by bit to get it right. Also obviously every frame is going to be different. Sooo yeah the video had all the detail you needed
you had to bring it up to 170??? damn, no cracks? sounds scary!
Does this method also apply to a front fork that is still from a 10-speed trying to do a 27 to 700c conversion I was wondering can you cold set the front drop outs on the fork as well
Perfect, thank you RJ. As a makeshift frame alignment guage, I took a spirit level/ straight edge and rested it against the head tube and dropout. I then measured the gap between the straight edge and the seat tube... The gap was quite different each side of the frame, so I adjusted this to be the same to put the frame into alignment. By increasing one side, this was also just the right adjustment to accommodate the new wheel 👍
ruclips.net/video/StUTN4Bb2zI/видео.html
Thank you so much for what you do! Your videos on this topic helped me convert a cherished steel frame I received from a friend to a modern 10 speed fun machine (10 speed as in ten sprockets on the cassette).
My girlfriend helped me during the shaft & nuts method of cold setting the frame and it was an fun and engaging activity for the both of us.
Thanks again for what you do!
girlfriend helping with shaft & nuts is definitely a great activity…
@@tobithetonewheel very engaging!
I have old broked alloy rims so I disassembled the hubs and uses their axles to expand the thin steel tubes that's so easy than expand the tubes with your hands first I tried with hands but I failed then I uses your technique and make it easy. Thanks " RJ the bike guy ". You are great mechanic.
I've used the 2x4 method a few times. I just tried the threaded rod method. It's much better. It was quicker and easier and more accurate. Thank you very much.
I need to do this but in reverse. I have a steel frame mongoose fatbike with 190mm rear dropout standard, that I wish changed to 175mm fatbike standard. The threaded rod method is the most precise method I've yet seen to DIY this. Kudos to RJ the bike guy
I used the shaft & nuts option and it worked perfectly on my vintage Peugeot. She's now running on 700x38s
I plan on doing this to a Peugeot ps10E. (120 mm rear spacing) How much did you expand?
Rob Bastien I to have a vintage Peugeot and I’m doing the same thing, how many gears were you able to fit on the rear tire after expanding it, also did you change the bottom bracket or is it still a French bottom bracket?
The threaded rod is my favorite method. But to avoid possible cracks at the bridges, I put around them cheap coil springs compressors that I thighten just enough so they don't move.
Thanks RJ. Just beat back the wife's attempts to make me buy a Walmart bike and picked up a used steel Gary Fisher and I bought a Specialized about a year ago and let it lay ( low end Specialized Hard Rock from the 90s but it is butted chromoly ). Funny thing is the wife said she wanted a bike like the one she used to have, another Specialized steel frame, so she intuitively liked the steel but just didn't know why ( I ruined that one with a botched fork replacement but let's not talk about that ).
I quite fancy putting a single chainwheel on one of them and something modern at the back and you just showed me how to do that. My family doesn't understand multiple chainwheels so the simplification is appealing. Cheers!
I usually recommend that is better to buy a used quality back instead of a cheap new one. Then you have a solid base. Great job!
How can anyone give this a thumbs down... Thank you RJ
Understand men just an YT algorithm mange the ratio
Yeah I don't know.. Thumb downs are pretty meaningless anymore
Dude, you're godsend! I'm from Russia, I'm watching both yours and VeloLab bike workshop's videos, learning something new every day! Soon I'll be able to fix my own bike by myself :)
Thanks for the Video, Sheldon Brown of RUclips! For my Columbus SL Frame without a chainstay bridge it didn't do anyting from 126 to 160mm. When setting it to 165 it became 127 and at 170 it became 127.5. Then at 175 it became exactly 130. Think next time I would go in even smaller steps after the first movement because I think I was quite lucky to nail it exactly.
Thank you thankyouthankyou a million times thank you. I'm currently rebuilding an '86 RockHopper and hadn't realized it would not fit my previous build's wheelset which I was planning to swap. Saved me a lot of trouble. Maybe I'll post an overview video when in a few days. Thanks again, you are who makes youtube beautiful. Ride on man!
Cool. I like the threaded rod method. I also like upgrading vintage roadbikes. I'm making a 2x9 of an old 10 speed, and just did the frame. Inspired of your videos. :)
How are you doing since the accident? I hope things are going well. I just spent 3 weeks with a pinched Sciatic Nerve issue, and I've never felt pain like that in my entire life; and it's not over. All the doctors want to diagnose over a video conference ! Give you magic beans, and see ya. Nobody does their job any more. I can't imagine what you might be going through. i wish you the best because you're The bike guy.
That video made my day. I came up with the same solution while converting a beach cruiser to an electric gear-less hub motor electric bike. I also had to convert it so that it had disc brakes. This was a Pee Wee Herman style bike that I rode on the trails; as to not be seen... It had red tires, swept back handlebars, with a basket on the front, and brakes that required you to pedal backwards. As a kid... That was the safest thing in the world. It worked every time. Then they came up with cable pull brakes, that always failed in the rain... And then disc brakes with all the complications and expense of those. I could , not for the life of me.... figure out how to get my brain, at 62 years old to understand the pedal backward, (Safest, most reliable brake in the world). So many years have gone by and how many people have suffered from inadequate brakes ? The problem needs to go away.
It was the first e-bike that I did with such a style conversion. As i was building it, I did the same thing that you did. Kinda made me proud that i came up with the same solution as R.J. The Bike Guy ! You've been such an inspiration over the years. Straight forward, honest, work.... and it is work. Videos don't make themselves and you don't fast forward through the unexpected things that can happen. You take the time to cover all the important information in detail. With simple explanations that anyone can understand.
I don't know how you feel about electric bikes, but the more things change, the more they stay the same. All the tips, tricks, and techniques you offer in your videos still apply to electric bikes. The main difference is in the cost and the fact that electric bikes require better braking power..... which is a serious concern. They are heavier. They also require torque arms so that the wheel; which has a lot of torque won't just fall out of the mounting bracket. Been there, done that. More embarrassing than anything. Probably looked pretty funny though. Learned i didn't have the tools handy and had to do the walk of shame back to get the tools. Learned something.
Don't be afraid of change. We don't like to change. Always keep learning and Take the Change with You.
I am doing much better thanks. Still get some random back pains sometimes.
Thank you for your time and common sense approach. Score one for metal frames which I prefer over aluminum or carbon fiber. I like a plain work horse bike not one that cost as much as a used car.😊
I did this to my classic frame (with the bolt as tool as shown here) and it solved my problem. Thank you sir RJ.
this channel has been a lifeline lol working on a vintage restoration for my 1st bike project. thanks for the content!
Thank you so much! Worked great! I spreaded my SLX-Frame from 126 to 130 - but need 170mm to do so. I worked it up from 145 but untill 160 i had basically no changes. I also removed the two screws in the Hanger to do all this.
Threaded rod is my preference too. No risk of putting your back out of shape pulling on bars! People, remember to keep your back straight when lifting!
For the gauge, an even cheaper method is a taut string tied to the dropouts and passed around the head tube. Measure alignment at the seat tube.
I have a video using the string. Though it is not as accurate.
thanks for showing this! i did this with a old steel mountain bike frame that was a 5 speed and now i have a 11 speed !
Is it still working ? Is there any chance that the frame will get damaged ?
The iconic mid-garage soda cache... gotta love it
This is a very risky operation intended only for professionals with appropriate knowledge! Some people claim that it is not even necessary to permanently bend the rear forks from 126 mm to 130 mm and that you can only press in the wheel with a new hub, expanding the forks elastically. But the hooks should be parallel, so they would have to be bent. That's exactly what I did on my bike, only bending the dropouts because I didn't want to damage the 3-speed 120 mm hub, inserting it into the frame with a 114 mm fork spacing instead of the usual single-speed torpedo, manually expanding the steel forks within the elastic limits.
Very Helpful As Usual RJ The Bike Guy I'm Doing this to my 1957 Dunelt Which Had A Sturmey Archer 3 Speed Hub To Put A 120mm Fixed/Freewheel Rim on it So I Got To Go About 8mm out Which Won't Bother Those Old Hardcore Frames, Just Have To Take My Time And Do In A Few Increments At A Time. The Front Forks I Had To Go From 90mm To 100mm I Did It Gently Yet Firmly By Hand a Little At A Time They Work Now.
Thank you for these videos, I just finished converting my 6-speed 122mm to a 130mm 8 speed, modern wheel. I used a bit of the 2x4 lever method and the threaded rod.
@@mauritiusbeaubassin8484 PLEASE watch the video carefully RJ clearly states that this should only be done to a steel frame
I cant really see how people can thumb down a video like this.
Was sooo tempted to thumb down your post 😅.
I gave it a thumbs up!!
Yeah, what goes on in some people's minds??
Happy riding.
thank you so much! I was restoring a 31yo Favorit F1 and I found here exactly what i needed.
I like this video. One of the key things it showed me was how much steel can bend without actually breaking. RJ bent the frame by 34mm in order to deform the frame by 4mm. The elasticity of steel makes cold setting unnecessary, I'd prefer to just force the 130mm hub into the 126mm dropout, works fine for me.
Makes mounting a wheel a pain. Also the dropouts will be angled slightly putting pressure on the axle, also make the axle more likely to slip forward.
Indeed, you are right, and you've changed my mind, I'm going to cold set my frame to 130 tomorrow 😃
I was doing some research on cold setting steel - it's a perfectly normal thing to do. When manufactures of steel frames join the tubes together, using very high heat, sometimes the resulting frame is not completely aligned. To get around this, they simply bend the metal at room temperature, the posh word for this is cold setting. Steel is happy to be bent into shape at room temperature. Your 1980's lugged steel frame has probably already been cold set during manufacture !
Thank you for this video, i can finally fit my 8 speed cassette on my classic racer
I made a gauge out of rectangular stock, 3/4" x 1 3/4" stock tubing, 42" long. I drilled a hole 1" from an end (through the wide side) and JB welded a small 10-32 on both sides of the hole with a 3" bolt installed..... With this you can put it on the frame (head tube and down tube) but the end goes to the inside of the frame-stays and you measure the bolt to the dropout on the "inside" or "wheel side"of the dropout with the wheel off. Had the scrap tubing, 56 cents for nuts, washer, and bolt.....I have a normal gauge, but this is handy when the wheel is already off, like when you are buying just a frame, keep it in my van, works like a charm.
I tried this method carefully for a few hours on an old Marinoni with Columbus SL tubing. Wouldn't widen at all - came back to 125mm after every effort to separate the stays (had it up at ~165mm a few times).
I ended up using a piece of wood and some muscle - done in 2 minutes.
Thanks for this video, so helpful, clear and plain speaking. Cheers 👍
That's ingenious! I'm doing this tonight!
I had an old Specialized Stumpjumper frame resized to 135MM in Portland back in the 1990s. The shop used a Park tool & I never had any problems -- wish I had kept that bike 😭
thanks for this video.. can i use this method to close the gap?? a lot free space for my 135 hub..
great video RJ ..i crashed a while ago flying of my carrera hustle bike converted to a ebike....well since then the brakes ( hydraulic ) have been playing up ... only need around 3mm to sort this out .....
Video on cold setting a steel frame was very clear and informative. Great
Thanks!
Thanks for sharing, works great but I had to resort to the plywood method for fine tuning the alignment at the end. My frame was much easier to bend than I had expected!
"EXACTLY" what I was looking for! Thank You So Very Much...
Cool and useful video. Thanks for sharing your experience
Very useful method, the last one method that i like to try on old mtb. Thank you very much sir
Thank you John!
I love your garage!
Can you widen the Brompton rear triangle to 135 using this? Thanks!
I have two steel bikes where direct drive hub motor conversion wheels won't work fit with my aluminum frames. The direct drive motors fit in the dropouts fine without cold setting the frames. It's like cold setting was meant for steel frames.
Hey RJ! If you want 9-10s give a bit more spacing of the hubs because of the derailleur alignment i have a 24er bike and the derailleur its offset with the hubs spacing it always touches the 7speeed chain at the frame
Thanks so much for this. Just saved me taking an angle grinder to my Cargo Bike project in frustration! Worked a treat
Good stuff, I have to do that to my old KHS frame. I'll go with the 3/8 all thread method..
Thank you for this. I watched this like a year ago but I actually DO it tomorrow
After buying a new wheel rim, I discovered it was actually wider than the old one. This worked. But I have to note that you must widen the frame considerably more than this guy implies. I spread the frame to 165mm to "stretch" it to fit a 130mm wide wheel. This is because the steel wants to snap back to its previous size.
I don't think I implied anything. Expand the thing farther and farther until it settles at the width you want.
After expand the back triangle, should leave it stay over night before take the screw off？
I'm going to attempt this tonight. My threaded rods came in the mail today. My question is, how far can I stretch these? I need to make these very wide to accommodate mag wheels with motorized bicycle sprocket and disc brakes...as well as the 7 speed freewheel
I did with 160 mm.
It worked. It worked really really really well. But the real test came when I rode it to work. It held. So glad I found this channel. My livelyhood depends on that bike. If I can't get to work I can't live. The bike gets me there...and this video got me on the bike. Thank you
@@yham47 What was your spacing to start with? I need to go from 110mm to 135 and I'm a little worried
How far did you expand yours / what were the initial and final widths?
@@jackbtlr My frame is for 7 speed so its 126mm. I stretched it out to 130mm to accommodate 10 speed Tiagra 4700 drivetrain. During the process I reached 140, then 150, and 160mm in each tries (because chromoly has that elasticity in it) until I reached 130mm.
Out standing videos 👍👍👍 buddy good information to know this is what I needed to know how to do this fore my EBike rest fork was a little bet short rubbing on wheel axe now I can fix it wow Nice 👍👍👍 take care stay safe out there from Alaska 🤠
Can you go backwards by converting a 130mm bike wheel set to fit a 126 mm frame by changing freehub, or removing washers or spacers?
Thanks, I'm expanding an older frame just to build a cool older look steel frame bike..
Bloody brilliant video. Thank you!!!
well done. learned a few tricks. I've used the 2x4 method a few times. now I know how to align the dropouts.
Perfect.. this video helped out tremendously
Hey there, thanks for the video! I would like to know what rim this is! I want to install a 8-speed Wheel afterwards in black like this one. Cheers!
Great video! I have a Dahon 20” chromalloy front fork with 74mm o.l.d. I want to open it to 83mm to fit a hub motor. Do you thiink this would be safe to do with this threaded rod technique?
I added a motorized mag wheel which was a wider wheel because of the sprocket gear and disc brake I was able to get it to stay put so now the rim fits fine
Thats actually a good idea you must just use the right tools so instead of buying a new bike this can work 👍
Did this about five years ago and recently discovered a crack in the frame around the chainstay, it's clear the rear triangle spreading created extra stress in that area. Didn't fail catastrophically for me but it could well do for someone, so I can't recommend this procedure. Just get a wheelset you can remove spacers from to take it down to 126mm.
The frame builders and mechanics at the place I used to work at were far less mechanically sympathetic than the method in the video and we didn't experience these problems. Perhaps just unlucky.
This is excellent! I need to get from 120 to 130mm which is quite a difference. Is there a limit to how much you should try to push the frame out?
Hold your fingers apart 10mm. It's really not that much. Should be doable. Its at your own risk.
How about if you want to make it smaller ? For example from a 190mm rear hub to 170mm. Is it possible ?
Recently discovered your videos. They are very informative and you explain and demonstrate everything very clearly. Really appreciate all the effort. Bike On!
Tom Biernacki á
Now I measured it! I have a steal baar ruler like you. Most accurate I measured was 137-139mm!
Could you put the metric equivalent of these tools you make in the videos? I don’t work with inches. Cheers.
Going to attempt cold setting my frame which is at around 120mm and push them out to 130mm. Quite a big difference but hopefully it'll work!
How did it work
I'm gonna try this too
@@electricburning this ended up working, but my chain ended up rubbing on the frame. i picked up a good looking but cheap frame for around $150, including a carbon fork. would rather repurpose old parts :(
@@BrianLiu thank for the update 🙏🙌
Would it be possible to go from 110mm to 135mm on a bmx cruiser Frame using this method?
You can try to pry the hub in using a screw driver. My hub doesn't fit because the nut on the hub exceeded the frame. Using the screw driver you can pry it in
I linked to this video on my latest video. John's vintage road bike garage! Thanks
It took 4 days for the frame to keep keep memory on their frame it worked I'm able to put a bigger a wider wheel on
Could I use this method to bring a 190mm to 200mm? And does this only work with solid rear triangles, or can you do it with steel rear swingarms?
This is such a great video
I've recently tried this with my old Voyageur SP for an upgraded hub. Apparently the steel is too strong (Columbus Tenax frame) because, while it does spread, it goes back to the original spacing. I guess I'll try the SB method next. Thanks for all your great videos!
Hi great vid thanks
I got 177mm rear dropout but the rear hub is 150mm I need to close the dropout by 27mm by the way frame is very thick and heavy steel frame is it safe to do the job with treaded shaft and nut and washer and tighten till I get to the right size?
I need to widen a rear dropout of my BMX mongoose rebel to fit a Nexus 3 speed hub. Is this the best procedure for that? Great video. Thanks! Mike
Another informative video RJ. Like the Homemade videos and have made some myself through your channel.
3x axle in the full length of 135 mm I'm adding a rear disc brake on a motorized bike well basically about 130 mm somewhere right in there so one side is going to have a hub adapter for a disc brake on his sprocket with the motorized mag wheel
Thanks RJ, I might have to use this method for my 70s French Motobecane that I am restoring
Retromods are cool. Though French bikes have funky threadings and sizes. Can be limiting.
Thanks RJ, easy to follow and feels much safer than the wooden block method to control of the amount of bending. 1987 Raleigh Granada tourer frame now ready for new wheels and more gears!
A pack of 5 300mm M10 threaded roads with nuts and washers is a great addition to the toolkit, pressing bearing cups, dropout alignment, frame cold setting, and more?
Please please please can you put a vedio about turning 190mm fat bike into 130mm dropout
Sell the fat bike, buy a mountain bike.
Thank you!! This is exactly what I was looking for to use my old Raleigh steel frame racer (126mm) with a smart trainer like the Wahoo Kickr or Tacx Neo 2T.
Could you use the method to decrease spacing
I dont need to do anything like that but really interesting and informational video.
Thanks RJ, first saw Sheldon Brown's but your method much better. I understand as long as frame is already aligned. With the new wheels, I should be able to reduce the laughs at my 1990 steel Swinn. :D
Configuración en frío de un cuadro de bicicleta (espaciado de buje de 126 mm a 130 mm)
What if you put your fixed nut configuration in the center of your threaded rod between the two chain stays… by using your vice grips and holding from the center you could use two separate wrenches and open each side 1 to 100 turns precisely and evenly.… Or whatever it took.
As long as the frame was straight before you began, theoretically, you wouldn’t need to check it again. Even though you probably should.
Also, this center fixed idea I espoused above, Actually allows someone to choose one side getting more opened than the other…In the case some thing was off-center to begin with.
Very informative video! I was wondering if there was a way to also adjust the hub spacing on my old rigid front fork, because I cant fit my quick-release hubs on it. I hope you can reply to this, thanks!
If the fork is steel, you can do this.
Thank you so much for this rj
more powers and be safe always
very helpful because i want to
convert my bmx into 8 speed set up
and i dont no what to do so that i see this very helpful video
i will do this tommorow to see if works.
and i will comment again :).
Great video. I wish someone had a video on how to set an aluminum frame...
Do not do this to an Aluminum frame!
@@RJTheBikeGuyThanks for your reply. I know, they must be heat set. I just wish someone would do a video on it so I don't have to make it up as I go.
Hi, RJ what is the max tire clearance on that Lotus frame?
Amazing video