Make A DIY Fork Alignment Gauge - Cheap & Easy!
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- Опубликовано: 10 июл 2020
- I show how to make a cheap, easy fork alignment gauge. I made this one for about $5. For my 1" fork, I used steel flat bar 1/2" wide x 36" long x 1/8" thick. Aluminum flat bar will work also. For a 1 1/8" fork, I suggest using 3/4" wide x 36" long x 1/8" thick.
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Necesito información de palancas de cambio shimano st Ef 40 7r cambio shimano tourney
we liked it because you made it easy for us to understand . we consider you the master bike mechanic.
Approved
but will we ever become a master mechanic
This is one of your best videos, because I occasionally align forks. It's actually fairly safe to bend a steel fork back into shape. I've done it. The tricky part is getting it aligned. It's not always possible. There are three adjustments: left-right, front-back, and length. And when you bend front-back, you sometimes shorten the blade. Left-right is the easiest mis-alignment to fix. Thanks for showing us how to make a gauge. I've always wanted one of my own.
Lai lai lai, lai lai lai, lai lai laaaii, .
@Tom Reingold do you just put a piece of pipe over the fork? I asked RJ, but will ask you too: In terms of the rim centering under the crown, what tolerance do you use? 1/8" of center? 1/16?
Could you show us?
My forks are just like the ones in the video, the red forks. How do I bend them back?
Would love to see a video on the Park Tool version, maybe for more skills craftspeople to attempt replicating.
I really like your simplistic approach. Thanks to your vieos I've got a sweet deal on lightweight aero road bike which needed TLC. I had great time working on that bike. I've built and sold one gravel bike and now I'm building myself a fixie. Than you very much RJ. You're the best!
Cool a new homemade tool!
It's been a while since the last one!
Thanx!
I love this vid I was suspecting a bent for but wasn't sure, now I can check thank you great content
Thx, I've learned so much from you videos. Keep up the good work.
Brilliant video, coincidentally uploaded only a couple days after I picked up a new frame with what looks like an out of alignment fork, so guess what i'll be doing this weekend, thanks very much! 👍
Hey RJ I just wanted to thank you for your useful videos. Your info is concise and it made rebuilding my DeRosa roadie so painless. For about $100 worth of parts of which $40 of it was tools you suggested, my roadie is good as new. Thanks so much once again!
Exactly what I needed. Thank you sir 👍🏻🙏🙂
Great job dude . Thanks
Brilliant idea RJ.
Thanks, RJ! Another great video!
Probably won't need this but would be useful on steel forks which would likely hold up well to tweaking. Aluminum and carbon no way.
With steel, I'd give it a go. The others - a specialist or replace.
If your carbon fork is bent like this, you'd probably never notice it since you'll have an even bigger problem at that moment
Sky Walker No more front teeth.
Nice I had to re-aline the drop outs to convert into a single speed so it needed different spacing for the fixed gear wheels
Very good! You are a good teacher too. 😊
Muchas gracias por el video tutorial, excelente idea para revisar y alinear la horquilla de la bicicleta, saludos desde Mérida Venezuela..!
That was awesome and ty.
Awesome ideas.
awesome info!
Thank you!!
Brilliant! Do you have a video describing how to eliminate or at least minimise the distortion of the fork either laterally or longitudinally, if ever one should decide to salvage it?
Good therapy.
Very interesting. I have a bike I got hit by a Taxi while riding. It's front wheel got taco
'ed and later I started wondering about the fork. I just started riding the bike again. This may be just the thing I need to help figure out if I need to replace that fork. I did not even know such tools existed. Thanks!
Good stuff
Rj love the videos when did bicycles become so technical anyway could you share on were I could but on the internet of course a a derailleur with hanger I need one for my old rally thanks joe
I buy lots of parts on ebay. And bikes have been technical since before 1900.
Great hack for those that need something quick n easy that’s not gonna break the bank 👍
But those white forks I could see they were toast before you even checked!
They had been on a Trek 1200. I replaced them. They made a great example for this video. So they had value.
A used Schwinn voyageur I bought has a bent fork😣. I put a straight edge on the top of fork right past the lugs and sure enough almost 3/4 inch out of alignment. I am thinking new fork , or a good used fork after I check out the rest of frame if that is all good
If you have a star nut inside the steer tube, is it re-useable if you just drive it straight through to remove it?
Brilliant. I have bicycle that dont drive straight without hands. It was like it from the beginning when I bought it. 2 bikes i got from Friends run straight like normal. 😏
Could be fork. Could be frame. Could be wheel dish. Lots of things.
Hi RJ, bought my Schwinn 1 year ago. The chain is already skipping on the cog. I'm sure the cassette is good. Only rode the bike about 10 times. Thanks.
Could just be cable adjustment.
ruclips.net/video/VzrpC7jrz8U/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks I'll check it out. Subbed.
If the fork is just slightly bend will it still be useful if I just alligned my wheel?
Does a steel fork has a tendency to break after heating and bending
I love the way you change from metric to imperial depending on what you are measuring. Large = imperial. small = metric?
I do the same. Anything below 1in is in millimeters lol
I'm thinking RJ is simply pragmatic.
Fork offset is standardized in metric (e.g. 100mm between the dropouts) so it makes sense to do that in metric.
The strip is sold as half inch wide, fork steerers are in inches, US drill bits are always imperial, so use inches.
I'm British and I tend to do the same. Precision measuring uses metric, anything non critical I'll happily tell you in inches. In fact if it's me, if I'm telling you it in inches, then you already know it's a non critical dimension.
@@MrAmorti British, and yet "standardized", shame on you (or your autocorrect) 😂.
I remember in about 1965 when the teacher came round and took our battered old rules and replaced them with a shiny new wooden metric rule.
@@andyleatherbarrow7322 autocorrect!
@@MrAmorti I know this is all OT so forgive me. After leaving college, my first job. "This has to to be 10 thou, with a 5 thou space". Me "what!"
Hello mister , I hope you're doing great !!! Will you enlight us with a how to align a steel fork???
Hello RJ, do you maybe know "mods" for french bottom brackets to use more modern (and available) parts?
LOL! Don't buy French bikes.
Thanks. Can you truing wheel by videos.
ruclips.net/video/f1SHmFBihKM/видео.html
Is there a way on "how to convert Horizontal or Vertical dropout to Thru axle"? You know like drilling the dropout?
I think they make adapters. Other than that. IDK.
On the white road fork the left blade is bent back, the right one is good. Totally fixable.
I've fixed many like that - brace it with a 2x4 and apply cautious pressure in small increments. I've also 'stood' on a large piece of wood to 'pin' the fork to the shop floor and then tweaked with hands. If you eat your Wheaties and go slow it isn't hard. Cool gauge though!
I think I'd want to braze or solder the two pieces of the T together once I was certain I had the right angle perfect.
I think that would be overkill.
Brazing would absolutely distort the t-bar with all that heat and ruin accuracy. A couple MIG tacks would be better. Or just recheck it every time you use it.
Hi RJ! I have a RST 191 c4 fork and it is seized up I've tried numerous times to take it apart but it simply wont budge. I was wondering if there was any way to repair these forks so I don't have to get a new one.
ruclips.net/video/0GJ_IFWK5yw/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy I've watched this video but my fork has no movement whatsoever
Hey you seem like you really know a lot about bikes. Mind taking a look at my rear derailleur hanger. Idk if its worn out or something. Maybe the derailleur mount is broken. Couldn't find anything on your youtube channel. Help haha
Kind of vague.
@@RJTheBikeGuy 🤷♂️
Built up a an araya wheelset with araya rc 540 rims, DT swiss 2.0 1.8
2.0 Double butted, laced to Ultegra 6500 hubs 14 gauge spoke nipples.
Big problem, the rim has lateral distortion to the side of each of the
eyelets - the distortion isn't at the eyelets it's at the braking
surface as if it is jittery when braking - I have close to perfect equal
tension throughout. Rebuilt it again with using oil on threads and
eyelet holes still same result. Gotta be over tensioned spokes causing
the distortion right? I've got an average of 160 Kilograms of force on
the spokes, should I reduce the tension to 117 kgf? There is no
cracking of the rim, and when I de-laced it the destortion went away but
when I retensioned it again it got distorted again. Could I have
permanently distorted the rim? Can you give advice on this?
www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/ASIN/B004H1UA9Y/ref=nosim/youtube25-20
RJ, I have a slipping seatpost on a steel frame bike. The seatpost is a 26.2 mm diameter, Gonna try a shim for it - what size shim should I use - i'm confused as to the sizings...
If you have the correct size seatpost, it shouldn't be slipping, and you shouldn't need a shim. In fact a shim wouldn't fit.
ruclips.net/video/E4YHKdqwnFY/видео.html
@@RJTheBikeGuy Thanks RJ, Interesting about using the larger seatpost diameter, looking into that tonight. In the meantime I tried some fiber grip but after application the seatpost makes cracking sounds when I ride it, like a Ting sound or ping.
Hey rj, have you ever had an expereince of spraying yourself wd40 on the face? I recently did it by accident and now im confused what to do. Appreciate the reply.
Uh, no I haven't. Wash your face. And point the nozzle away from you next time.
I have a '73 Raleigh that doesn't show any signs of being bent (no wrinkled paint, etc.), but the front wheel is not centered under the crown. It's off by almost 1/8 inch. I've flipped the wheel around, tried other wheels and really think it is the fork. So, I'm wondering: What was the tolerance for centering the wheel on these old Raleighs? Any idea? (I asked this in a different video of yours, but it fits better here).
Could be fork is out of alignment. Not sure what you mean by "What was the tolerance for centering the wheel".
@@RJTheBikeGuy By tolerance I just meant nothing is perfect, so how good is good enough? If the rim is 1/16 over is that good enough? 1/32? Hope that makes more sense. You have great videos! I learn a lot from them.
Hey RJ, I was fixing up my father's old Raleigh bike and shortly discovered that he had cross threaded the threaded fork nearly 30 years ago! The fork is damaged and I will need a new headset regardless. Do you know of a way to repair the threads on the fork? I can upload a picture if needed. thanks
Maybe make a thread chaser from a old headset. Something like this but with a nut. ruclips.net/video/2SSfk-Q67UQ/видео.html
A bike shop might have a threading tool to recut the threads of they aren't too damaged.
@@RJTheBikeGuy imgur.com/a/dUlsS0z I got a picture uploaded, The threads are pretty fugged up. I'll take it to my bike shop soon, I f they can't fix it, they might be able to replace it.
Hello Mr. RJ bike guy! I am a new subscriber. I have a question pertaining to a video I seen of yours that you posted a while ago. I have a huffy Cranbrook that has worn the coaster bearings out on the side with the sprocket twice now. I just tightened them slightly then backed off a smidge when I replaced them and then tightened the jam nut down and made sure it spun freely. I just wanted to run this by you and see what your thoughts were on the matter. Thanks in advance!
Edit: when replaced the old bearing that came out the hub had flat spots on each of the 9 balls
You want to tighten them so they turn freely, with little or no play. Make sure the races are not damaged.
ruclips.net/video/PPXt9m4udKw/видео.html
RJ The Bike Guy yes sir, that’s the video I was referring to that I watched of yours. Followed it to the T and for some reason mine still locked up without the race being damaged 🤷🏻♂️
@@NitroGuyJH My guess is you didn't get the cones/locknuts adjusted properly. If the the locknuts are nut locked properly, the cones can move, and tighten. Also, mounting the wheel can sometimes tighten the cones a little.
I have a problem my bike can pedal forward and backwards can you help me plsssss
Shrug. Too vague. Maybe you have a fixie.
Very informative video RJ. By the way, it's a Star nut, not Star Spangled.
Star FANGLED nut.
www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/star-fangled-nut-and-expansion-plug-installation
Hey can you pls make a video:how to remove non removeble bmx brake bosses 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Take it to a frame builder. Or buy a frame without bosses.
I have very old steel bike and have same problem. It's very hard to find steel fork. How can I solve this problem. Coul you help me?
If the fork is bent, replace it, or take it a bike shop have them assess it and maybe fix it.
@@RJTheBikeGuy I will try to find it. Wish me luck.
Fork 26 or 27?
Great videos, as ever, but - after all this time, why don't you have at least one vice fixed to a bench?
I have a couple. But they are not convenient for shooting videos.
I should have guessed! LOL
If the steerer tube is bent to the side, this will not be accurate, I have had two bikes thus far that the steerer tube was indeed bent to the side, and both were fixed perfectly. I used a different method.
Next video can you bike check all your bike? Thanks if you can
ruclips.net/video/StUTN4Bb2zI/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/dUPAKqS3dt8/видео.html
I just discovered you recently, so ev vid is new to me. At 6:30 you are showing the “tool” running thru the head tube crooked. It is way more than tools, anyway. Fork straitening has gone away for a reason. The cheapest or oldest bikes are the only ones now. Cheap or old metal, really any metal on a bike, isn’t strong after it is bent back strait, and rarely is it back to factory strait. So on an a costly 1 hour repair, the bike still pulls or leans, and the fork is weaker by our bending.
Any tips on washing rags that are covered in dirt or grease? I'm worried about putting them in the wash, a short video on that would be great if you have tips!
Use a good grease cutting detergent. And clean your washing machine afterwards.
I'd try to align that Fork. I have Dental Insurance.
LOL!
you should do an Iron Man training series
I am not a trainer. And it's been 8 years since I have done an Ironman!
@@RJTheBikeGuy I trust you completely I would follow you into battle or marathon training!
I wonder if Park isn't making this because of its naming convention.
damn it mine doesn't have a hole
Okay so I have a new tool to make, but I'm going to go one better than RJ and laser mine on our Trumpf laser at work.
😃
Brilliant. Builds a tool to determine how bent the forks are then decides to replace the forks anyway rendering the tool useless. Is someone bored, maybe 😂.
Accurate enough? Bloody right they are; it's not brain science, it's a bike ffs... Good useful video, again!
Some bikes the wheel dish test, aka flipping the wheel, doesn't work. Take say, a MTB wheel with a thru axle setup.
The fork is going to be off center because of the disc brake, and needs to be dished to one side, to center it.
Other Cannondale Leftys, I am not familiar with any asymmetrical forks.
The point of dishing is to get the tire centered between the forks so flipping a dished wheel will work. There is a assumption that the wheel has been dished properly. But even that can be checked by comparing the gap between the tire and just one of the forks. If the gap stays the same when the tire is flipped then the dish would be good.
This is incorrect. A properly built wheel has its rim centered between the locknuts or endcaps of the hub, no matter whether it's a quick release, bolt-on, or thru-axle, and no matter whether it's a disc brake or rim brake, front or rear. All wheels other than rim brake front wheels are "dished" in the sense that the hub flanges (the circle of holes in the hub that the spokes hook into) are not equidistant from the locknuts or endcaps, but all this means is that the tension on the two sides is not identical, nor is the spoke length. The rim still needs to be centered on the hub overall. The only exception I know of is a front hub on a Surly Pugsley, a very unusual fork that is itself not centered (it would show a 35 mm discrepancy if measured using the tool shown in this video) and as such requires a purpose-built front wheel that is 17.5 mm offset from center.
@@RJTheBikeGuy
Yeah, a lefty would be interesting to try and figure out if it's off. I mean, it's possible, just weird.
I know about the other part, because when I got my new suspension, my wheel was off center. It definitely wasn't the fork, as it's a dual crown. The stanchions would have the be off for that to happen, and that would cause way more issues than a wheen being uncentered.
Hub has different sized encaps. You flip it, it's way off to one side. I'm not sure if it's for the disc brake that they did this, or what. But, it seems there are a few hubs setup this way.
Wheel had to be dished to the fork, not to the hub, and as I said before, if you flip it, not only will it not work, but the disc hits the stanchion.
you have got so many bike dont buy old bike get new bike not 1980 bike 2010 bikes or 2017
Musik is to loud :)
What music?
RJ The Bike Guy was a joke my friend :D