Thank you for making the video. I’ve been searching of how the stained hevea butcher block would turn out and your video is exactly what I was looking for.
Yesterday I purchased the exact same brand of countertop you are using here, so this video is very helpful in planning how I intend to stain and seal my countertop. I'll let you know how this goes for me. Thanks for posting this!
Love that you specify the product/wood used for your countertop. We bought the same one and had great success. Your video gave me just the extra bit of guidance and confidence i needed! Thank you!
If you mix 2 parts mineral spirits and one part poly you can make it into a wipe on poly and much easier to use. Less drips and the coating goes on more evenly
As always I enjoyed your video!👍 Like how you pay attention to details and I am amazed at all you can do and your knowledge of "EVERYTHING"!😲Can't wait to see the next video! 😊❤
thanks for video, very informative. I am building a computer desk using the Hevea butcher block (also from lowes). I found a diy video from another person on this build. I like what he did, how ever, his butcher block was from home depot and was a walnut type. and the gel stain clear satin top coat he used ( he did not other prep work) made the walnut just POP, looked GREAT. I am hoping to achieve a similar look with the Hevea, but don't want to go too dark on the stain, ( I saw that you were using a DARK Walnut), and don't want to go too light either. so will have to experiment with a couple of the medium to lighter stains... the question I have is for testing, should I put on the pre stain wood conditioner before I apply the stains (to test color) or just put on the wood directly? I too had to do a little sanding on my Hevea block, but after I got out the small rougher areas, it looks great. now onto the staining and sealing part. thanks again in advance. I will try to video and post up a link here some of my process and the finished product.
Thank YOU! Great video for us. We bought an island from Lowe's of the same Hevea butcher block for our pennisula. The edges seem sharp to me. I wanted to see if you did anything extra to them. From this video, I'd say you didn't.
it does not look, from the video that he did any routing or such to the edges, just sanded. I am building 2 computer desks using same Hevea block, but I routed (3/8 inch round bit) 3 sides of my 2 desks, currently still a work in progress, but hope to put up video link when done.
I used some wood biscuits on the joint to glue it together. I also used countertop connectors. They mount underneath the countertop and clamp the joint together. Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIYThe reason I ask is Expansion & contraction. I would think using glue would make it difficult if not impossible for wood movement which is gonna happen.
It has polyurethane, so not really. It’s as safe as any other furniture, but if you want to chop, knead dough etc, use mineral oil and beeswax. Poly won’t like hot pans at all
Yeah, just sealing it would be fine. However, you may want to stain the bottom, 2-3 inches around the edge if it is going to extend past the cabinets. This will make it look better should anyone see it.
Thank you for making the video. I’ve been searching of how the stained hevea butcher block would turn out and your video is exactly what I was looking for.
Yesterday I purchased the exact same brand of countertop you are using here, so this video is very helpful in planning how I intend to stain and seal my countertop. I'll let you know how this goes for me. Thanks for posting this!
About to buy one right now!
Love that you specify the product/wood used for your countertop. We bought the same one and had great success. Your video gave me just the extra bit of guidance and confidence i needed! Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks! 😊
Thanks for posting! Same just purchased and found your video! Very helpful
Nice attention to detail sanding down the rough parts of the counter top.
Thank you! I appreciate it.
If you mix 2 parts mineral spirits and one part poly you can make it into a wipe on poly and much easier to use. Less drips and the coating goes on more evenly
Thanks for the tip! I will have to test that out. I imagine it would soak inter the wood better too.
This tip was so helpful! I started using a mineral spirits-poly solution for the last several coats to get an extra smooth finish
@@714milla I think you just have way more control with the wipe on poly and it dries really fast too. Glad it helped!
super helpful. thank you
Thanks! Glad to hear it! 😄
We just bought the exact wood for a dining room tabletop! This video is super helpful thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks 😊
As always I enjoyed your video!👍 Like how you pay attention to details and I am amazed at all you can do and your knowledge of "EVERYTHING"!😲Can't wait to see the next video! 😊❤
Thank you very much! It’s great to hear from you!
😄❤@@SimonSaysDIY
thanks for video, very informative. I am building a computer desk using the Hevea butcher block (also from lowes). I found a diy video from another person on this build. I like what he did, how ever, his butcher block was from home depot and was a walnut type. and the gel stain clear satin top coat he used ( he did not other prep work) made the walnut just POP, looked GREAT. I am hoping to achieve a similar look with the Hevea, but don't want to go too dark on the stain, ( I saw that you were using a DARK Walnut), and don't want to go too light either. so will have to experiment with a couple of the medium to lighter stains... the question I have is for testing, should I put on the pre stain wood conditioner before I apply the stains (to test color) or just put on the wood directly? I too had to do a little sanding on my Hevea block, but after I got out the small rougher areas, it looks great. now onto the staining and sealing part. thanks again in advance. I will try to video and post up a link here some of my process and the finished product.
Very helpful
Glad to hear that! 👍🏻
Thank YOU! Great video for us. We bought an island from Lowe's of the same Hevea butcher block for our pennisula. The edges seem sharp to me. I wanted to see if you did anything extra to them. From this video, I'd say you didn't.
I’m glad this video was helpful! Good luck with your project!
it does not look, from the video that he did any routing or such to the edges, just sanded. I am building 2 computer desks using same Hevea block, but I routed (3/8 inch round bit) 3 sides of my 2 desks, currently still a work in progress, but hope to put up video link when done.
What colour stain did you use?
in the video, near the end, after he cut the 1 block, you can see the stain he used is a DARK WALNUT. hope this helps..
How long did you wait before you put the poly?
what was that stain your used? I like the color
Nicely done. What did you use to fasten the two legs together to make the L shape counter?
I used some wood biscuits on the joint to glue it together. I also used countertop connectors. They mount underneath the countertop and clamp the joint together.
Thanks!
@@SimonSaysDIYThe reason I ask is Expansion & contraction. I would think using glue would make it difficult if not impossible for wood movement which is gonna happen.
It is safe for food ?
Im curious how it will hold up to mold with water splashing into wood. Would love to see an update video
he used a polyurethane top coat sealer, (from video, he put on at least 3 coats and sanded between coats to smooth out), so should be waterproof.
Did you add the pre stain before sanding or visa versa?
After sanding. It wouldn’t hurt to do a very light sanding after the pre-stain as it opens the wood grain and may expose splinters and roughness.
It's that food safe?
yes, curious about this as well!
It has polyurethane, so not really. It’s as safe as any other furniture, but if you want to chop, knead dough etc, use mineral oil and beeswax. Poly won’t like hot pans at all
Do you think it's necessary to stain the bottom? I planned on just sealing, but didn't see the point of wasting stain
Yeah, just sealing it would be fine. However, you may want to stain the bottom, 2-3 inches around the edge if it is going to extend past the cabinets. This will make it look better should anyone see it.