Yes it does Camidivx and the maintenance is minimal. Thanks for watching. Actually the coffee table is now 47 years old ( I made it in shop class in High School).
Super helpful! HAPPY to know my simple project will look fine with just a single, liberally-applied application. Also that I can get away with flipping my work to get all sides done at once. I was dreading having to wait 72 hours between coats when all I need is to add a simple finish to some hidden surfaces. It’s awesome your bookshelf too will look great after your one-application method. Thanks for using a good microphone and speaking clearly. Very professionally done video, easy to follow.
Thank you so much for your detailed recording.... It's a massive help as I'm about to apply the oil to my Beach kitchen surfaces. The first time I applied the oil, it became tacky as I allowed it to dry between coats. I've spend days sanding it back to it's natural wood. Now it's ready, I'll follow your steps to perfect the finishing touch. Thanks again.
Lots of videos of people applying Danish Oil out there, and everyone does it a bit different, but for some reason yours stand out to me. Seems like you know what you're doing; I'll follow your instructions when I try out my Watco Danish Oil!
Thank you for that 26chairs. It was actually the way I learned to apply it when I was in shop class in high school. It has worked well for me all my life. Don't forget, if you have wood like oak, you will have to wipe it off every few hours for at least a day as it seeps back up. Enjoy.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I'm new to woofworking in general, and until I tried my Watco Danish Oil on some common boards a few weeks back, I wasn't aware of pine (and similar soft woods)'s reputation for blotching when stained. Well, that's exactly what happened. Do you know if using the kind of pre-stain you'd use before applying an oil stain might reduce blotchiness for Danish Oil?
@@Nebx1989 Yes pine will cause some issues with blotching when staining. You can use pre-stain wood conditioner that will help some with the blotching. Minwax conditioner is a good one to use. But don't wait for it to completely dry before applying Danish oil. You will have anywhere between 15-minutes and 2 hours before it dries out. Also, you may need more than one coat of Danish oil because the first coat may appear lighter than advertised.
@@MadNerdWorkshopI had to use conditioner for my pine bed and applied a walnut stain. Now it’s dry, should I re condition the wood and then apply danish oil or is it ok to do now after the stain?
I'm using Danish Oil for the first time on a project and I love the way it looks on the test pieces that I've done so far. It is incredibly easy to work with. Some stains I feel like I have to hurry up and wipe it off before it gets darker than I want, but applying the Danish Oil is super easy and stress free. Relaxing, almost. I'm using it on Poplar, by the way. It really makes the lighter brown tones pop. I does turn the greens a little darker but the smooth finish is remarkable (for me, anyway, being my first time using it).
My goodness, thank you for this. Needed this info in a hurry. I'm late to the party, but glad I found this. Now subscribed, for what it's worth. Thanks!
The commentary you shared while oiling the wood was so informative. This video was great, thank you you for making this. I'm going to be oiling a set of bench tops I scorched and this is going to be useful. Thank you, you earned a subscriber!
Thanks a lot for your video. As it turns out I am crap at applying stain so I am thinking of oil. Your video was very helpful and covered all my questions. Thank you. Dave from Australia.
Oil is the way to go and it is a bit easier than water base stains. You still may want to check out Pre-stain wood conditioner, they help for porous woods.
So, i have an exposed beam celing, but I needed greater R value up there to prevent snow melting that lead to ice damming issues. I had spray foam insulation applied and have pine boards to cover the insulation and beams, and I have been trying to decide what product to use on the pine boards to seal them. This video has been super helpful! At this point, i just need to trim to length, sand, and apply danish oil! Oh,all.most forgot, hang the boards!
This is a fantastic video! I’m building a new wooden cabinet for an old guitar amp and I was torn between danish oil or stain/poly. This helped me make up my mind!
Excellent! Danish Oil is a great choice for restoring furniture. Make sure everything is stripped down to the bare wood before applying. Have fun with it.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks ,yep I stripped a nice old wooded bar stool bare and gave it 4 coats of Danish and it looks brilliant. cheers for your advice, I'm real happy. cheers NZ
I just did a countertop for my little camp (Red oak). Came out great. However, after about a week or so, I went back to the garage and it had a bunch of tiny "zits" that had squeezed up through the grain in places. I took some oil and 600 grit to it and it smoothed out nicely. Fast forward another week and a half, same thing. When I sanded, I spent a lot of hours looking for bleeding and nothing came up. How long should this usually keep happening? Today was a warm day and they popped up again.
unfortunately Mike, Red Oak is the worst for seeping. When I did my table it took about a week for all of it to clear up. I just wiped it down with a cloth until it stopped. But I like your idea with the oil and 600 grit. It will greatly slow down after a couple of day, then stop all together when the oil that penetrated the deepest starts to set up. Let me know when all of zits stop appearing.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks. I have an idea as to why it popped up the second time. I'd been working on the top and decided to give the bottom some oil too. It will never be seen but I figured it should have a coating on it. I'm thinking that swelled the wood more and is causing the zits. I did have it on the back of my tuck the other day, in the sun. When I went to move it back inside, it was very slightly tacky on top. As it is my first run with Danish oil, I think I could have let it sit longer between coats. 4-8 hr. is what I used, and it was low humidity and warm.
Very informative. Thanks for this! I’m not sure how I just now found your channel today but now I have a lot of catching up to do. Awesome stuff so far! Subscribed.
Very informative. I've stripped all my solid oak cabinets and love the natural look. I've decided on this danish oil natural. Crossing my fingers for a beautiful outcome.
You can do that, Water will always prevent it from combusting. You can also just flatten them out so they dry without being in a ball. Once dry, you should be ok.
Thanks. I’ve used minwax antique oil finish for years on gun stocks. Love the stuff. Put on, wet sand, and wipe off…and repeat. I would assume Danish oil is the exact same stuff?
My coffee table you see in my image for my channel is all glued up wood and has been finished with Danish Oil for over 45 years and no separation on that.
The Rustins brand Danish oil I have instructs to apply at least 3 coats, and suggests using a plastic scouring pad to apply the final coat. What do you make of this?
Hi Kitty, You can do that for the last coat. Be sure to use quality Scouring pad (brand and grit the manufacturer recommends). I believe the purpose for doing this is to make sure you have a good coat and penetration into the wood. if you have any area where the coat is thin, the scouring pad will work the fresh oil into the wood.
Do you need to shake it before applying? I have some danish oil stain that separates so just the clear oil is on top. That’s what I want. I’m just worried that it won’t work properly If I don’t shake it.
you would need to shake it for it to work that way it should. If you want the clear oil, use natural Danish oil. As with all oil base products, you will get a slight warmer look when done.
Hi! This is so helpful. I have a question. If the birch wood that I'm using is going to be exposed to water moisture for about 30-40 minutes a week and I need to clean it with hydrogen peroxide each time, how often should I reapply the Danish oil? I'm assuming that the oil finish would need to be reapplied in the future. I'm just unsure how often, unless I should just use waterproof wood sealer. Thank you so much!
I would waterproof the wood with another sealer. But if you already used the Danish Oil, just reapply it with it starts to lose that new finish look. The time can vary wildly so it is hard to say when. If the finish looks old to you, just reapply. Sorry, not sure how much that helps. :)
Thank you! I kept layering the dish oil on my table and the machine is not even… So I appreciate your explanation. My question is… I’m using this on my dining room table, I will go back and sand before adding another layer, will danish oil create enough of a protective seal for a dining room table
After two layers of Danish Oil, I would use some wipe on Poly. Just give the oil at least 72 hours to dry before applying the Poly. That would give you a more durable top. I have only used Danish oil on the coffee table you see as my icon photo for the channel. and that is redone about every 10 years and I made that in 1973. So Danish oil can be durable and it will last. The nice thing is that it is easy to refinish when needed.
Yes it is somewhat water repellent. I have used it on my coffee table and it has stood up to use for 49 years. (I have re-applied the oil twice over the years).
I am putting Danish oil on plywood panels which a sculpture will be installed on. The panels will hang vertically to support wire sculpture. If I wanted to put a varnish over the oil to make the surface stronger or longer lasting, what would you recommend? Thank you for a great video
I would think for soft wood like pine, wood conditioner would not hurt if you are using the stain (color) Danish Oil. I never tried that on pine or any wood before, so I would defiantly try it on a small test piece first to see how it reacts with he Danish Oil.
Excellent presentation on Danish oil! What sanding grits did you use before applying the Watco oil? Along the same line is there too fine a grit that inhibits the penetration of the oil? Thanks in advance.
I stop at 180 grit, I don't know if a finer grit would inhibit the penetration of the oil. In my early days, I did go down to 320-400 grit, but I find the finish looked exactly like the 180 grit. So I decided not to do the extra work.
You can or you can skip that part. Generally for me it depends on the wood. Oak plywood or other semi porous wood, I would use it. Maple or other tight grained wood I may not. Either way it doesn't hurt to use it on all wood, it just adds a step to the finish process. Hope that helps.
You can, but it is not very durable for that. You would be better off using any of the finishes they recommend for floor so it can stand up to the daily wear and tear.
@@MadNerdWorkshop how can I tell if my floor is wood or laminate? I rent an apartment so I don't know what it is and it's in a pretty bad shape, it needs some love and care.
Danish oil does not build up, so having a number of coats will not make that much difference. Not to mention the finish will not dry out very well. Although Danish oil is not the most durable finish (compared to Lacquer or Varnish) I do find it durable for any indoor furniture. The good thing is that is it very easy to refinish when it needs it. Lacquer and Varnish will require a good amount of work to refinish. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching.
It would be a good finish, but it may not be the best choice. First it will no make the surface smooth for your desk if you plan on doing any writing on it. In addition, it is not the most durable finish for desktops. The nice thing about it is that it is easy to refinish if it starts to wear and you can apply another type of finish over it if needed. Not sure if that helps you.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! I would like to use the danish oil and then coat with the least glossy finish possible maybe a satin poly was my thoughts. I color grade video footage and do not want a super reflective top. Any thoughts?
I usually apply Danish oil with a cloth. The brands I've used have consisted of two parts tung oil and one part varnish. Fire risk is indeed a concern.
Applying it with a rag is a good method, and you get a nice thin coat. I agree with you on the fire risk, but you can just soak the rags in water or flatten them out to dry. Thanks for sharing Cathal.
Thank you for the information just wanted to ask you I already put together a kitchen island I was going to use this product do you think that’s OK? Or should I use a different product? It’s going in the kitchen like I said I already put it together, so I’m gonna try to do this while it’s assembled
Danish oil will be ok for that. Danish Oil is not the most durable finish, but it is easy to redo at a later date. You can try it and if it wears too fast, you can refinish it with another coat of Danish Oil and add a couple coats of wipe on poly. Just let the Danish oil dry completely (about 72 hours or more).
After applying the Danish oil, can I apply an oil based polyurethane for more water protection for our computer desks in case we set drinks down etc. how long after applying the danish oil (a coat or two) should we wait? when its dry to the touch? or rub with a cloth? should i sand it a little with 320grit before applying first poly? great video.
Brett, for me I would wait at least 48 hour or more depending on how porous the wood is. Oil base polyurethane should be ok, I never has a problem with it. but please just to make sure ( there are many different brands out there) oil up a scrap piece of the same wood and apply that finish to that first. This is well worth the time to make sure all is compatible. I would give it a light sanding with 320 to 600 grit just to remove any micro dust. Then make sure it is cleaned off well, before applying the polyurethane. Keep in mind that applying polyurethane over Danish oil will make it much tougher to apply any recoat later in the future. I hope that helps, good luck.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! For the finish after Danish Oil, I was actually going to use equal parts mineral spirits equal parts minwax oil based polyurethane satin finish and just wipe it on and do 4 or 5 coats, and do a light sanding of about 600 grit between coats of poly. This is all just in case I spill my coffee on the desk or water rings. Is it needed with the Danish oil or does it offer enough protection to combat water/coffee?
@@CommonSenseAdult Making a poly wipe-on will give it better protection and that will help with spills and coffee rings. The coffee table I did in high school (47 years ago - damm, I am old) has only had Danish Oil and I never had any problem with spill or water ring. I have reapplied the oil at least twice, maybe three time since then, but only to give it that like new look, not because of any damage from spills. I think the poly for a desk would be a good idea, because you will be using it more than my coffee table and it will have more accidental bumps and hits. Also the poly will give it a deeper and richer finish. If you every post a finish photo of it, let me know, I would like to see it. Thanks Brett and talk care.
Thanks for the video! After you put water on the rags with danish oil (when project is complete), what do you do with the rags then? Are they fine to throw in the trash after they have water on them? Thanks!!
The idea is to soak them in water so they can't combust. The oil is still in the rag. I spread them out on my concert driveway so they are flat, making sure there is nothing near them. After they are dry I collect them in a metal container until I have enough of them to take them to the hazard waste center for disposal. I can't say what your regulation is for trash pick up, so you would have to check with them to make sure it is ok to throw out. But if you let them dry completely they will not combust, that only is possible during the drying process. I how that answers your question.
I have a bunch of incredibly old wood I got for free (probably as old as I am), so it is incredibly dry as well. I am using it to build raised garden beds for outdoors and was going to use tried and true danish oil and shellac for finish. Should I sand the wood pieces to apply the danish oil? or just 0000 steel wool is okay? that was all the instructions say. they are a bunch of 2x4 pieces. Thanks for the video.
That all depends on whether or not you want a rustic look to the wood or a finish look. I would at least sand down to 150 before applying the danish oil (finish look). Then you can use the steel wool on the danish oil before applying the shellac. I am not really sure how waterproof that finish will be for a raised garden bed. I would consider using Thomson's water seal to help make that wood stand up to the outside weather, water and sun. I hope that helps. That should be a nice looking raised garden bed, I made mine out of those stacking stone.
I have never applied it at such low temperature, but I would think it would affect it ability to dry and cure. For me the smell is overpowering and I alway apply it in a well ventilated area, generally with the garage door opened.
Great video! I’m planning on using Danish Oil on really thin maple to act as a skin/ case for my iPad. Since Danish Oil is combustible, should I be concern with the heat from the iPad? Perhaps I can clear coat as well?
Hi Kites, You don't have to worry about it being combustible, it is only combustable when it is drying. But with all that rubbing on the case, you will have to refinish it maybe once a year. If you use your iPad as much as I do. But refinishing is just a matter of a bit of light sanding and reapplying another coat. The nice thing, it will look as good as new. Thanks for watching.
It would be a couple of things, something in the wood, oil or wax on the wood. Even old Danish Oil or too low temperature. I have never experienced it so I really can't say. But I am sure Watco has a help line or help on line and should be able to help you with that. Sorry I can't be more help. But thank you for watching.
Just made corbels out of walnut and don’t want to use poly over the stain. Would danish oil be ok or should I use a wax for a little sheen and protection?
at this point I would use the wax for the sheen and the little protection it provides. You could use natural Danish Oil but it will change the color of the stain like Poly would.
Hi Valent, I do not know about the different numbers. That may be the part numbers for the different stain colors for the danish oil, but I have never noticed them before.
I noticed that you finished both sides using the bench cookie cones to keep the bottom elevated while you were actively keeping the shelf wet with the finish. How long do you have to keep the shelf off another surface once you are done wiping it dry?
I will let them sit overnight and them stand them on their end for at lest 3 days. That way they are fully cured before placing anything on top of them.
Planning to use this same danish oil on an IKEA tabletop (GERTON) that is unfinished solid beech. Does it need to be sanded before applying the oil? If yes, what grit do you recommend? The tabletop is quite large and about 70 lbs and I don’t think I’ll be able to flip it back and forth so easily. Do I have to oil the underside of the table as well? Will it affect the integrity of the tabletop if I only apply the oil to the top and sides? Thanks!
I believe those come already sanded, but you may want to touch it up with a light sanding with a little 320 or 400 grit. For me, I would apply the oil to both sides if you have easy access to it. But it should not hurt it just finishing one side of it. Thanks for watching.
The can of Danish Oil states to wait 72 hours and I always wait at least that amount of time. You want to make sure the oil is dry before sealing it up with Poly. Hope that helps.
Hi!! need some advice - I'm working on building a walnut casket. Hoping to finish with danish oil or something similar, I detest working with poly - would I expect any difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces or corners with danish or other oils? It's also a pretty large surface area - should I apply in sections?
Sorry for the delay mikrusty. because Danish oil penetrates into the wood you should have no difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces and you will wipe it away before it dries so there should be no problem with it in the corners. Hope that helps.
Nice video, we have a 8 year old outdoor table think its ( Kwila (Merbau) timber). Its undercover away from the elements and sun. It looks nice and redish back has lost its nice gloss glow look. There are no dents scratches or stains on it. What would help, as in an Oil. Thanks
Thanks Tugboat, as for which oil will help protect it. Well you can use any of the oils (tung, Danish, Linseed) for that. If you want to keep the look and color of the wood, then Natural Danish oil would be the best. It will give it a little warmer color cast. I have never worked or actually seen Kwila timber. But if it is something like other exotic woods, then maybe a little sanding will bring back the original color then the oil will help to save that look. All though the sun will still drakes or bleach the wood (depending on how it reacts to it) over time. Good luck with that project, it should be nice when you are finished. Thanks for watching.
Ches Catur - I think you meant “beeswax”? It’s generally recommended to remove the existing wax finish with mineral spirits before doing the new finish - including if you’re using the Danish oil finish.
it goes away after about two weeks, depending on where it is at. If it is in a small room it may linger a little while longer. At least that had been my experience with it.
if you already raised the grain with the water, then sand, you can absolutely damp-dust with water, just let completely dry. If you raise the grain again, then you did more than damp dust. After my finished sand, I only dry dust or lightly use a tack cloth to remove any dust. This is because, when you apply Danish oil, it soaks into the wood, but will still has a wet surface. So when you wipe it off, that generally takes any dust left on the wood off into the wiping rag.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks. The comment and video contained a lot of important points and tips I would have missed, never having used Danish oil before. I want to make a good job of my workstation. It's pine, and has sat unfinished for some years now, since it was put in, picking up all manner of stains.😐Want to sand all off and make it look the best it can. I cannot get over the high sheen finish of this oil, it looks like varnish!
I tried following instructions of the back on a Danish Oil bottle I bought recently. Unfortunately, I didn't realise I was meant to wipe after about 30mins. I've got tacky areas and dry spots now. What's your advice on remedying this, and avoiding the sticky areas in the future? Great video, and thanks!
Sorry to hear that Kenny. I would sand it down back to smooth. If it is warm out, I just let it sit a couple of minutes then wipe. This will prevent it from pooling up and forming those sticky area. Best advice is wipe after 5-8 minutes, before any pools start to dry. Or wipe it on very thin so no pools can form. Hope that helps.
Danish Oil seems ok for book shelves, but I don't think it's suitable for a high-traffic kitchen worktop. I followed the great advice here. Worked perfectly as described. It's been down for a week, nothing sticks to it, but I dragged a tray across it and it scratched. Anyone else had problems with Danish Oil on a kitchen surface?
Danish Oil on Kitchen worktops will require some maintenance because it is not the hardest finish out there. Fortunately it is an easy fix with a little sanding and oil.
Because Danish oil soaks into the wood, does that mean that no color can be added after the first application of Danish oil? Would you say that if you were going to stain the wood that it needs to be done before the application of Danish oil? If I mix a stain in with the Danish oil would that work? And would subsequent applications of the stain/oil mix darken or color the wood more each time?
It would be best to stain before applying the Danish oil. I have never tried to mixing the stain and Danish oil, so I can't answer that. But you could try that out on a scrap piece of wood and see how it works. Also, Danish oil does have different colors (Stains) that you can buy for an all in one application. I hope that helps Bill, let me know how it all works out.
Thanks for the informative video. I have 2 questions as this is my 1st time refinishing anything or using Danish Oil. #1) My piece is a light oak. I bought Medium Walnut to deepen the colour of it to coordinate with an antique Spinning Wheel (I haven't restored that). As this is my 1st time doing this, will I struggle to get an even look & should have purchased the Natural Danish Oil instead? 2) Regarding the actual application you said to do it in sections but your example was a small board so you were able to do it all in 1 pass through plus is was flat. I've just sanded down an antique Oak Wool Weasel (it's for winding yarn). This piece has 4 legs, a base, a trunk then 6 arms that look like croquet mallets. How would you approach applying the Danish Oil to avoid it getting tacky? Thanks for any input you can provide & I'm so happy I found you tonight before I attempt to apply the Danish Oil. Your Son is lucky to have you as a his Dad to learn from your vast knowledge!
if you can apply the finish within 15 minutes and have time to go back over it again while it is still wet you should be good. Maybe try a spray bottle to apply it (I have never done this so experiment on a sample piece). If you can spray it all over and keep it wet for 10-15 minutes then wipe it off, you should be good. Any time you use a stain finish you run the risk of getting an uneven color. Natural will help but you will not get the dark color your looking for.
Molambo, I have books on this one, after about a week the oil is dry enough to let the books rest on them. Now if you finished it and the next day you packed it with books and left them there in the same spot for a year or two. Then you may have some problem with them sticking to the shelf. Now if you have some rare books, I would check on how to store them properly, because an oiled surface may not be the the best place to leave them if you are worried about contamination. I do not have that knowledge so I can't make any recommendations for that, sorry. I am not sure about mineral oil in place of linseed oil, never tried that. I hope that helps. Take care.
Hey, thanks for the great video! I have a question can we mix oil wood stain with Danish oil for dark color or is it better just stain the wood & than use polyurethane over it? Thanks
Vic key, I have never tried mixing stain with Danish oil, but I would think that would work. Mix a small amount and try it on a scrap piece of wood. Danish oil does come in different colors so you can skip the staining step all together. Hopefully that helps, and thanks for watching.
I use danish oil all the time and really like it. I will rub it in with my hands on smaller pieces. If you were going to top coat with poly, how long do you have to wait?
Agree with Matthew, generally 72 hours, but that will depend on the weather and humidity. It is always safe to wait a week to prevent any area that may not have dried yet. Thanks for watching.
This video’s great! Wonderful explanation! Do you think that a lower temperature would affect the way it soaks in, or would it just take longer? Thanks!!
I know a lower temperature would take longer to cure and I would think that would allow the oil to soak in more. But I am not really sure how much of a difference it would make. Too low of a temperature would mess up the finish entirely.
That will look really nice Bonnie. Those little blue things are Bench cookies from Rockler. They are a must have, at least for my shop. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video and informative, didn't know you need to shake or wipe off. Would it be possible or dangerous to "stabilize" the wood in a vacuum chamber so it penetrates 100% on the first go? (New to wood stabilization)
I am not sure that Wood stabilization would work for this. When you stabilize would you reduce the atmosphere so that all the air is pulled out of the wood. Then when you re-introduce air into the chamber the vacuum caused in the wood pulls in the resin. The resin doesn’t need Air to Cure, that happens through heat. Oil needs air to cure, So I’m not sure if it could dry in the center of the wood. But I have never tried it, so I can’t be sure.
Sorry, I did not mention that at all. You would use paint thinner or mineral sprits. I always use rags or throw away brushes. I think I am just too lazy to clean them. Thanks for Watching!
Think your recommended method the best, however I tried detergent /washing up liquid and worked okay. I use throwaway brushes usually too. Thanks for your reply 👍@@MadNerdWorkshop
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love the 30 year old coffee table man. looks brand new. shows the power of danish oil and good maintenance
Yes it does Camidivx and the maintenance is minimal. Thanks for watching. Actually the coffee table is now 47 years old ( I made it in shop class in High School).
@@MadNerdWorkshophow often should danish oil be reapplied?
Super helpful! HAPPY to know my simple project will look fine with just a single, liberally-applied application. Also that I can get away with flipping my work to get all sides done at once. I was dreading having to wait 72 hours between coats when all I need is to add a simple finish to some hidden surfaces. It’s awesome your bookshelf too will look great after your one-application method. Thanks for using a good microphone and speaking clearly. Very professionally done video, easy to follow.
Thank you very much Earth2wendy and Thanks for Watching.
Well done. Easy to understand and very professional.
Many thanks!
Shop towels work great!
Yes they do, I started using them too. Thanks patriciatulskie.
Thank you so much for your detailed recording....
It's a massive help as I'm about to apply the oil to my Beach kitchen surfaces.
The first time I applied the oil, it became tacky as I allowed it to dry between coats.
I've spend days sanding it back to it's natural wood.
Now it's ready, I'll follow your steps to perfect the finishing touch.
Thanks again.
It should work much better for you. Thanks for watching.
Lots of videos of people applying Danish Oil out there, and everyone does it a bit different, but for some reason yours stand out to me. Seems like you know what you're doing; I'll follow your instructions when I try out my Watco Danish Oil!
Thank you for that 26chairs. It was actually the way I learned to apply it when I was in shop class in high school. It has worked well for me all my life. Don't forget, if you have wood like oak, you will have to wipe it off every few hours for at least a day as it seeps back up. Enjoy.
@@MadNerdWorkshop I'm new to woofworking in general, and until I tried my Watco Danish Oil on some common boards a few weeks back, I wasn't aware of pine (and similar soft woods)'s reputation for blotching when stained. Well, that's exactly what happened. Do you know if using the kind of pre-stain you'd use before applying an oil stain might reduce blotchiness for Danish Oil?
@@Nebx1989 Yes pine will cause some issues with blotching when staining. You can use pre-stain wood conditioner that will help some with the blotching. Minwax conditioner is a good one to use. But don't wait for it to completely dry before applying Danish oil. You will have anywhere between 15-minutes and 2 hours before it dries out. Also, you may need more than one coat of Danish oil because the first coat may appear lighter than advertised.
No ..not “seems like”
he does ..know what he s doing.
Just the instruction I was seeking thanks.
@@MadNerdWorkshopI had to use conditioner for my pine bed and applied a walnut stain. Now it’s dry, should I re condition the wood and then apply danish oil or is it ok to do now after the stain?
Mahalo for your excellent observations and advice!
Thank you and thanks for watching.
Going to apply this to my new workbench legs this afternoon. Glad I watched this video before I started!
Good luck with your project! Thanks for Watching!
I'm using Danish Oil for the first time on a project and I love the way it looks on the test pieces that I've done so far. It is incredibly easy to work with. Some stains I feel like I have to hurry up and wipe it off before it gets darker than I want, but applying the Danish Oil is super easy and stress free. Relaxing, almost.
I'm using it on Poplar, by the way. It really makes the lighter brown tones pop. I does turn the greens a little darker but the smooth finish is remarkable (for me, anyway, being my first time using it).
I agree with you Awl, the application of Danish Oil is very stress free. Thanks for watching.
Just did my first coat and it is exactly what I thought. Very relaxing and stress free.
Awesome video and thanks for sharing - very helpful!!
Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for watching.
1:25 into the show you answered my question! Thank you Mr Reid!
Great and thanks for watching.
Great and thanks for watching
Thanks!
Thanks for watching.
My goodness, thank you for this. Needed this info in a hurry. I'm late to the party, but glad I found this. Now subscribed, for what it's worth. Thanks!
Thank you for watching and Subscribing.
great simple explanation, seemed so much harder before i watched this, thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for watching!
Really great video, I love the way you explain clearly and calmly.
Thank you kindly! And Thanks for watching.
The commentary you shared while oiling the wood was so informative. This video was great, thank you you for making this. I'm going to be oiling a set of bench tops I scorched and this is going to be useful. Thank you, you earned a subscriber!
Glad you enjoyed it! Welcome aboard.
Thanks for the video
You bet, always like sharing.
You answered all my questions and showed just how easy it is to use Danish Oil. I will definitely be using on my next project! Subscribed!
I am Glad it was helpful! Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching
Thanks a lot for your video. As it turns out I am crap at applying stain so I am thinking of oil. Your video was very helpful and covered all my questions. Thank you. Dave from Australia.
Oil is the way to go and it is a bit easier than water base stains. You still may want to check out Pre-stain wood conditioner, they help for porous woods.
You're the man! Thank you
Thank you! and thanks for watching.
Perfectly timed comment regarding drip marks on the edge, as one creeps down the left camera facing edge!
Yea, what are you going to do. I see fine sandpaper in my future.
So, i have an exposed beam celing, but I needed greater R value up there to prevent snow melting that lead to ice damming issues. I had spray foam insulation applied and have pine boards to cover the insulation and beams, and I have been trying to decide what product to use on the pine boards to seal them.
This video has been super helpful!
At this point, i just need to trim to length, sand, and apply danish oil! Oh,all.most forgot, hang the boards!
That should end up looking quite nice Ron. Thanks for watching.
This is a fantastic video! I’m building a new wooden cabinet for an old guitar amp and I was torn between danish oil or stain/poly. This helped me make up my mind!
I am Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thanks so much
Any time, and thanks for watching.
Great job explaining everything!
Thanks! Thanks for Watching.
Thank you!
You're welcome and thanks for watching.
thanks
You're welcome, and thanks for watching.
thank you Sir for the great advice as I am about to restore a furniture item.
Excellent! Danish Oil is a great choice for restoring furniture. Make sure everything is stripped down to the bare wood before applying. Have fun with it.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks ,yep I stripped a nice old wooded bar stool bare and gave it 4 coats of Danish and it looks brilliant. cheers for your advice, I'm real happy. cheers NZ
Thank you for this🎉
Thanks for watching.
Fantastic video and great clear advice thank-you. Pleased can I just ask how you clean your brushes if using to apply Danish oil?
You can use mineral spirits or paint thinner. Thanks for watching.
INCREDIBLY HELPFUL! THANK YOU!
Glad it helped and thanks for watching.
Blue shop towels tend to leach the blue color with thinner based stuff for me
I would agree with that.
I just did a countertop for my little camp (Red oak). Came out great. However, after about a week or so, I went back to the garage and it had a bunch of tiny "zits" that had squeezed up through the grain in places. I took some oil and 600 grit to it and it smoothed out nicely. Fast forward another week and a half, same thing. When I sanded, I spent a lot of hours looking for bleeding and nothing came up. How long should this usually keep happening? Today was a warm day and they popped up again.
unfortunately Mike, Red Oak is the worst for seeping. When I did my table it took about a week for all of it to clear up. I just wiped it down with a cloth until it stopped. But I like your idea with the oil and 600 grit. It will greatly slow down after a couple of day, then stop all together when the oil that penetrated the deepest starts to set up. Let me know when all of zits stop appearing.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks. I have an idea as to why it popped up the second time. I'd been working on the top and decided to give the bottom some oil too. It will never be seen but I figured it should have a coating on it. I'm thinking that swelled the wood more and is causing the zits. I did have it on the back of my tuck the other day, in the sun. When I went to move it back inside, it was very slightly tacky on top. As it is my first run with Danish oil, I think I could have let it sit longer between coats. 4-8 hr. is what I used, and it was low humidity and warm.
Thank you for a great video, very well explained and presented, the go to video for applying Danish oil
Take care
Sam (N.Ireland)
Thank you very much, Sam. You have a great day!
Very informative. Thanks for this!
I’m not sure how I just now found your channel today but now I have a lot of catching up to do. Awesome stuff so far! Subscribed.
Welcome aboard! Thanks for watching.
Can you build a top coat with it if you want to?
No, Danish oil does not build up to form a top coat.
Do you suggest applying furniture wax or bees wax afterwards and buff it up
You could do that. I don't do that, but I would think that would work.
Very informative. I've stripped all my solid oak cabinets and love the natural look. I've decided on this danish oil natural. Crossing my fingers for a beautiful outcome.
You will like the results, good luck.
natural brush vs nylon vs sponge???
ty useful today for my projects Kenn
I hope it helps. Thanks for watching.
Great video! what if you use a paper towel to wipe off the excess oil? do you put it in water too so it doesn't combust?
You can do that, Water will always prevent it from combusting. You can also just flatten them out so they dry without being in a ball. Once dry, you should be ok.
Thanks. I’ve used minwax antique oil finish for years on gun stocks. Love the stuff. Put on, wet sand, and wipe off…and repeat. I would assume Danish oil is the exact same stuff?
I would think so, both are great products. Thanks for Watching!
Great video. If you are applying several coats. Say for a desk space. Would you still leave at least 72hrs between each coat?
I generally apply a new coat the next day, however, I only put on two coats. But, if you have the time you can wait for the complete cure at 72 hours.
I have a Butcher Block that I converted to three side tables for my living-room. Would danish oil cause them to come unglued?
My coffee table you see in my image for my channel is all glued up wood and has been finished with Danish Oil for over 45 years and no separation on that.
The Rustins brand Danish oil I have instructs to apply at least 3 coats, and suggests using a plastic scouring pad to apply the final coat. What do you make of this?
Hi Kitty, You can do that for the last coat. Be sure to use quality Scouring pad (brand and grit the manufacturer recommends). I believe the purpose for doing this is to make sure you have a good coat and penetration into the wood. if you have any area where the coat is thin, the scouring pad will work the fresh oil into the wood.
Do you need wood conditioner for softwood like pine?
yes you could use it. I would absolutely use it for any of the Danish Oil that have stains in them.
Thank you 👌
Can I use mineral spirits to lighten the shade of a color?
I am not sure on that. Thin a small amount and try it on a test piece of wood.
Buy the clear and small quantity of dark and mix to the shade you want.
That would work.
Do you need to shake it before applying? I have some danish oil stain that separates so just the clear oil is on top. That’s what I want. I’m just worried that it won’t work properly If I don’t shake it.
you would need to shake it for it to work that way it should. If you want the clear oil, use natural Danish oil. As with all oil base products, you will get a slight warmer look when done.
@@MadNerdWorkshop thanks! I’ll put it on the list.
Thank you! Do you know if this oil is suitable for wood that will later be in contact with food?
I don't know for sure Joe. I would not use it for a bowl or cutting board that will have raw food on it.
Hi! This is so helpful. I have a question. If the birch wood that I'm using is going to be exposed to water moisture for about 30-40 minutes a week and I need to clean it with hydrogen peroxide each time, how often should I reapply the Danish oil? I'm assuming that the oil finish would need to be reapplied in the future. I'm just unsure how often, unless I should just use waterproof wood sealer. Thank you so much!
I would waterproof the wood with another sealer. But if you already used the Danish Oil, just reapply it with it starts to lose that new finish look. The time can vary wildly so it is hard to say when. If the finish looks old to you, just reapply. Sorry, not sure how much that helps. :)
Thank you! I kept layering the dish oil on my table and the machine is not even… So I appreciate your explanation. My question is… I’m using this on my dining room table, I will go back and sand before adding another layer, will danish oil create enough of a protective seal for a dining room table
After two layers of Danish Oil, I would use some wipe on Poly. Just give the oil at least 72 hours to dry before applying the Poly. That would give you a more durable top. I have only used Danish oil on the coffee table you see as my icon photo for the channel. and that is redone about every 10 years and I made that in 1973. So Danish oil can be durable and it will last. The nice thing is that it is easy to refinish when needed.
@@MadNerdWorkshop so perhaps a coat of poly or two would help even out the sheen?
QUESTION. after a few coats of Danish oil then will Tonge oil give me a gloss shin ?
I am not sure on that one. Wipe on poly will.
I’ve sanded back a table that will be a vanity for our bathroom. Will the Danish oil be somewhat waterproof
Yes it is somewhat water repellent. I have used it on my coffee table and it has stood up to use for 49 years. (I have re-applied the oil twice over the years).
I am putting Danish oil on plywood panels which a sculpture will be installed on. The panels will hang vertically to support wire sculpture. If I wanted to put a varnish over the oil to make the surface stronger or longer lasting, what would you recommend? Thank you for a great video
Any varnish will do, just let it dry for at least 72 hours before applying the Varnish. Good luck with the project.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you! It's great you are still responding to questions.
Is it recommended to use a wood conditioner before applying this to pine? Or is that not necessary?
I would think for soft wood like pine, wood conditioner would not hurt if you are using the stain (color) Danish Oil. I never tried that on pine or any wood before, so I would defiantly try it on a small test piece first to see how it reacts with he Danish Oil.
Excellent presentation on Danish oil! What sanding grits did you use before applying the Watco oil? Along the same line is there too fine a grit that inhibits the penetration of the oil? Thanks in advance.
I stop at 180 grit, I don't know if a finer grit would inhibit the penetration of the oil. In my early days, I did go down to 320-400 grit, but I find the finish looked exactly like the 180 grit. So I decided not to do the extra work.
Well done video. Question:finishing a hardwood plywood, is it necessary to apply first a wood grain filler?
You can or you can skip that part. Generally for me it depends on the wood. Oak plywood or other semi porous wood, I would use it. Maple or other tight grained wood I may not. Either way it doesn't hurt to use it on all wood, it just adds a step to the finish process. Hope that helps.
How do you get the smell out of the treated wood?
The Danish Oil will dissipate within a month.
Hello! Can I use this for the floor?
You can, but it is not very durable for that. You would be better off using any of the finishes they recommend for floor so it can stand up to the daily wear and tear.
@@MadNerdWorkshop how can I tell if my floor is wood or laminate? I rent an apartment so I don't know what it is and it's in a pretty bad shape, it needs some love and care.
Do Denish oil gives enought protection like lacquer even its applied for several layeres...
thanks❣
Danish oil does not build up, so having a number of coats will not make that much difference. Not to mention the finish will not dry out very well. Although Danish oil is not the most durable finish (compared to Lacquer or Varnish) I do find it durable for any indoor furniture. The good thing is that is it very easy to refinish when it needs it. Lacquer and Varnish will require a good amount of work to refinish. I hope that answers your question and thanks for watching.
to confirm, do you continue to lightly apply it over a 15 minute span?
I keep the area wet for the entire time and that will require lightly applying the oil over the 10-15 minutes. Hope that helps explains.
I just finished a cherry top for a large computer desk. Would the danish oil be a good finish for the cherry top? Thanks
It would be a good finish, but it may not be the best choice. First it will no make the surface smooth for your desk if you plan on doing any writing on it. In addition, it is not the most durable finish for desktops. The nice thing about it is that it is easy to refinish if it starts to wear and you can apply another type of finish over it if needed. Not sure if that helps you.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! I would like to use the danish oil and then coat with the least glossy finish possible maybe a satin poly was my thoughts. I color grade video footage and do not want a super reflective top. Any thoughts?
@@jonathanhall5670 I think that would work just fine and using a satin poly is a good decision. I use DaVionci Resolve for all my videos :)
@@MadNerdWorkshop o your wise my friend!! I run a production company and do all my work in Resolve. It’s the best editor by far!!
How does this compare to watch tung oil?
I have never used Watch tung oil, so I can't say. Now I have to check into that.
I usually apply Danish oil with a cloth. The brands I've used have consisted of two parts tung oil and one part varnish. Fire risk is indeed a concern.
Applying it with a rag is a good method, and you get a nice thin coat. I agree with you on the fire risk, but you can just soak the rags in water or flatten them out to dry. Thanks for sharing Cathal.
Thank you for the information just wanted to ask you I already put together a kitchen island I was going to use this product do you think that’s OK? Or should I use a different product? It’s going in the kitchen like I said I already put it together, so I’m gonna try to do this while it’s assembled
Danish oil will be ok for that. Danish Oil is not the most durable finish, but it is easy to redo at a later date. You can try it and if it wears too fast, you can refinish it with another coat of Danish Oil and add a couple coats of wipe on poly. Just let the Danish oil dry completely (about 72 hours or more).
@@MadNerdWorkshop thank you so much
After applying the Danish oil, can I apply an oil based polyurethane for more water protection for our computer desks in case we set drinks down etc. how long after applying the danish oil (a coat or two) should we wait? when its dry to the touch? or rub with a cloth? should i sand it a little with 320grit before applying first poly? great video.
Brett, for me I would wait at least 48 hour or more depending on how porous the wood is. Oil base polyurethane should be ok, I never has a problem with it. but please just to make sure ( there are many different brands out there) oil up a scrap piece of the same wood and apply that finish to that first. This is well worth the time to make sure all is compatible. I would give it a light sanding with 320 to 600 grit just to remove any micro dust. Then make sure it is cleaned off well, before applying the polyurethane. Keep in mind that applying polyurethane over Danish oil will make it much tougher to apply any recoat later in the future. I hope that helps, good luck.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks! For the finish after Danish Oil, I was actually going to use equal parts mineral spirits equal parts minwax oil based polyurethane satin finish and just wipe it on and do 4 or 5 coats, and do a light sanding of about 600 grit between coats of poly. This is all just in case I spill my coffee on the desk or water rings. Is it needed with the Danish oil or does it offer enough protection to combat water/coffee?
@@CommonSenseAdult Making a poly wipe-on will give it better protection and that will help with spills and coffee rings. The coffee table I did in high school (47 years ago - damm, I am old) has only had Danish Oil and I never had any problem with spill or water ring. I have reapplied the oil at least twice, maybe three time since then, but only to give it that like new look, not because of any damage from spills. I think the poly for a desk would be a good idea, because you will be using it more than my coffee table and it will have more accidental bumps and hits. Also the poly will give it a deeper and richer finish. If you every post a finish photo of it, let me know, I would like to see it. Thanks Brett and talk care.
Thanks for the video! After you put water on the rags with danish oil (when project is complete), what do you do with the rags then? Are they fine to throw in the trash after they have water on them? Thanks!!
The idea is to soak them in water so they can't combust. The oil is still in the rag. I spread them out on my concert driveway so they are flat, making sure there is nothing near them. After they are dry I collect them in a metal container until I have enough of them to take them to the hazard waste center for disposal. I can't say what your regulation is for trash pick up, so you would have to check with them to make sure it is ok to throw out. But if you let them dry completely they will not combust, that only is possible during the drying process. I how that answers your question.
@@MadNerdWorkshop very helpful! Thanks so much for the reply and clarification
@@michaeladebolt3116 you're welcome
I have a bunch of incredibly old wood I got for free (probably as old as I am), so it is incredibly dry as well. I am using it to build raised garden beds for outdoors and was going to use tried and true danish oil and shellac for finish. Should I sand the wood pieces to apply the danish oil? or just 0000 steel wool is okay? that was all the instructions say. they are a bunch of 2x4 pieces. Thanks for the video.
That all depends on whether or not you want a rustic look to the wood or a finish look. I would at least sand down to 150 before applying the danish oil (finish look). Then you can use the steel wool on the danish oil before applying the shellac. I am not really sure how waterproof that finish will be for a raised garden bed. I would consider using Thomson's water seal to help make that wood stand up to the outside weather, water and sun. I hope that helps. That should be a nice looking raised garden bed, I made mine out of those stacking stone.
Can danish oil be applied in low temperatures such as 30 degrees fahrenheit? if applied indoors, will the smell be overpowering or dangerous?
I have never applied it at such low temperature, but I would think it would affect it ability to dry and cure. For me the smell is overpowering and I alway apply it in a well ventilated area, generally with the garage door opened.
Great video! I’m planning on using Danish Oil on really thin maple to act as a skin/ case for my iPad. Since Danish Oil is combustible, should I be concern with the heat from the iPad? Perhaps I can clear coat as well?
Hi Kites, You don't have to worry about it being combustible, it is only combustable when it is drying. But with all that rubbing on the case, you will have to refinish it maybe once a year. If you use your iPad as much as I do. But refinishing is just a matter of a bit of light sanding and reapplying another coat. The nice thing, it will look as good as new. Thanks for watching.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks for the reply! Would u recommend a wood conditioner on the maple, and would a clear coat at the end work?
My table has some big chalky looking spots. Any deas what went wrong?
It would be a couple of things, something in the wood, oil or wax on the wood. Even old Danish Oil or too low temperature. I have never experienced it so I really can't say. But I am sure Watco has a help line or help on line and should be able to help you with that. Sorry I can't be more help. But thank you for watching.
Just made corbels out of walnut and don’t want to use poly over the stain. Would danish oil be ok or should I use a wax for a little sheen and protection?
at this point I would use the wax for the sheen and the little protection it provides. You could use natural Danish Oil but it will change the color of the stain like Poly would.
I found out danish oil natural type got many model number.. what is the different between them? Like 242219, 65751 etc..
Hi Valent, I do not know about the different numbers. That may be the part numbers for the different stain colors for the danish oil, but I have never noticed them before.
If you use danish oil on a wall shelf, is there any risk that some of the oil will seep into the drywall and leave an oily mark on the wall?
Que, if you let it dry for about a week you should be ok. I not had any problems with it seeping into painted drywall.
I noticed that you finished both sides using the bench cookie cones to keep the bottom elevated while you were actively keeping the shelf wet with the finish. How long do you have to keep the shelf off another surface once you are done wiping it dry?
I will let them sit overnight and them stand them on their end for at lest 3 days. That way they are fully cured before placing anything on top of them.
It says right on the can, ready for use in 8-10 hours
Planning to use this same danish oil on an IKEA tabletop (GERTON) that is unfinished solid beech. Does it need to be sanded before applying the oil? If yes, what grit do you recommend?
The tabletop is quite large and about 70 lbs and I don’t think I’ll be able to flip it back and forth so easily. Do I have to oil the underside of the table as well? Will it affect the integrity of the tabletop if I only apply the oil to the top and sides? Thanks!
I believe those come already sanded, but you may want to touch it up with a light sanding with a little 320 or 400 grit. For me, I would apply the oil to both sides if you have easy access to it. But it should not hurt it just finishing one side of it. Thanks for watching.
Can you spray Polyutherene 24 hours after applying the danish oil?
The can of Danish Oil states to wait 72 hours and I always wait at least that amount of time. You want to make sure the oil is dry before sealing it up with Poly. Hope that helps.
Hi!! need some advice - I'm working on building a walnut casket. Hoping to finish with danish oil or something similar, I detest working with poly - would I expect any difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces or corners with danish or other oils? It's also a pretty large surface area - should I apply in sections?
Sorry for the delay mikrusty. because Danish oil penetrates into the wood you should have no difficulty with finishing on vertical surfaces and you will wipe it away before it dries so there should be no problem with it in the corners. Hope that helps.
Thinking about using this on raw white pine tongue & groove. Do you know if the wood ages yellow or gray or does it stay natural looking?
I would think it would have a gold/yellow look to it. I have not tried it on raw white pine. Let me know how it comes out. Thanks for watching.
Nice video, we have a 8 year old outdoor table think its ( Kwila (Merbau) timber). Its undercover away from the elements and sun. It looks nice and redish back has lost its nice gloss glow look. There are no dents scratches or stains on it. What would help, as in an Oil. Thanks
Thanks Tugboat, as for which oil will help protect it. Well you can use any of the oils (tung, Danish, Linseed) for that. If you want to keep the look and color of the wood, then Natural Danish oil would be the best. It will give it a little warmer color cast. I have never worked or actually seen Kwila timber. But if it is something like other exotic woods, then maybe a little sanding will bring back the original color then the oil will help to save that look. All though the sun will still drakes or bleach the wood (depending on how it reacts to it) over time. Good luck with that project, it should be nice when you are finished. Thanks for watching.
Can danish oil be used after the wood has been beewashed?
I have never tried beewashed product, so I am not sure if Danish oil can be used after. Sorry.
Ches Catur - I think you meant “beeswax”? It’s generally recommended to remove the existing wax finish with mineral spirits before doing the new finish - including if you’re using the Danish oil finish.
@@aalovelace2776 that is what I thought at first, but then I looked it up and there is a bee wash finish.
after how long is it safe to breath the smell of the oil stain ?? Thanks for the FEED BACK !!!
it goes away after about two weeks, depending on where it is at. If it is in a small room it may linger a little while longer. At least that had been my experience with it.
I loved your table! That's quite a piece for a high school woodwork classes.
Will damp-dusting after sanding raise the grain and spoil the finish?
if you already raised the grain with the water, then sand, you can absolutely damp-dust with water, just let completely dry. If you raise the grain again, then you did more than damp dust. After my finished sand, I only dry dust or lightly use a tack cloth to remove any dust. This is because, when you apply Danish oil, it soaks into the wood, but will still has a wet surface. So when you wipe it off, that generally takes any dust left on the wood off into the wiping rag.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thanks. The comment and video contained a lot of important points and tips I would have missed, never having used Danish oil before. I want to make a good job of my workstation. It's pine, and has sat unfinished for some years now, since it was put in, picking up all manner of stains.😐Want to sand all off and make it look the best it can. I cannot get over the high sheen finish of this oil, it looks like varnish!
@@jennytaylor3324 You're welcome Jenny. Have fun with it and you will like that finish.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you, I believe I will. Keep on keeping on with the tips and tricks.👍😎
P.S. We are on the Oregon coast, so very humid here.
Thanks for watching.
I tried following instructions of the back on a Danish Oil bottle I bought recently. Unfortunately, I didn't realise I was meant to wipe after about 30mins. I've got tacky areas and dry spots now. What's your advice on remedying this, and avoiding the sticky areas in the future?
Great video, and thanks!
Sorry to hear that Kenny. I would sand it down back to smooth. If it is warm out, I just let it sit a couple of minutes then wipe. This will prevent it from pooling up and forming those sticky area. Best advice is wipe after 5-8 minutes, before any pools start to dry. Or wipe it on very thin so no pools can form. Hope that helps.
Thanks, I was hoping to avoid sandng down, but looks like it's unavoidable. I appreciate the help.
Danish Oil seems ok for book shelves, but I don't think it's suitable for a high-traffic kitchen worktop. I followed the great advice here. Worked perfectly as described. It's been down for a week, nothing sticks to it, but I dragged a tray across it and it scratched. Anyone else had problems with Danish Oil on a kitchen surface?
Danish Oil on Kitchen worktops will require some maintenance because it is not the hardest finish out there. Fortunately it is an easy fix with a little sanding and oil.
No one said it was
Well, thanks, no one. @@Solid_Jackson
@@iandsmithyou silly billy, I know you’re lonely, but answering questions no one asked isn’t a good look
Your uploads actually have some value tho, so keep going down that route
Because Danish oil soaks into the wood, does that mean that no color can be added after the first application of Danish oil? Would you say that if you were going to stain the wood that it needs to be done before the application of Danish oil? If I mix a stain in with the Danish oil would that work? And would subsequent applications of the stain/oil mix darken or color the wood more each time?
It would be best to stain before applying the Danish oil. I have never tried to mixing the stain and Danish oil, so I can't answer that. But you could try that out on a scrap piece of wood and see how it works. Also, Danish oil does have different colors (Stains) that you can buy for an all in one application. I hope that helps Bill, let me know how it all works out.
Thanks for the informative video. I have 2 questions as this is my 1st time refinishing anything or using Danish Oil. #1) My piece is a light oak. I bought Medium Walnut to deepen the colour of it to coordinate with an antique Spinning Wheel (I haven't restored that). As this is my 1st time doing this, will I struggle to get an even look & should have purchased the Natural Danish Oil instead? 2) Regarding the actual application you said to do it in sections but your example was a small board so you were able to do it all in 1 pass through plus is was flat. I've just sanded down an antique Oak Wool Weasel (it's for winding yarn). This piece has 4 legs, a base, a trunk then 6 arms that look like croquet mallets. How would you approach applying the Danish Oil to avoid it getting tacky? Thanks for any input you can provide & I'm so happy I found you tonight before I attempt to apply the Danish Oil. Your Son is lucky to have you as a his Dad to learn from your vast knowledge!
if you can apply the finish within 15 minutes and have time to go back over it again while it is still wet you should be good. Maybe try a spray bottle to apply it (I have never done this so experiment on a sample piece). If you can spray it all over and keep it wet for 10-15 minutes then wipe it off, you should be good. Any time you use a stain finish you run the risk of getting an uneven color. Natural will help but you will not get the dark color your looking for.
How does hard rock maple take this process?
I work with hard maple and it does well with it.
Some RUclips woodworkers use a non scratch scrub pad when oiling, do you know why?
I think the idea is to rough up the wood so the oil can penetrate deeper.
What would happen if you fully submerged your wood in Danish oil overnight?
I don't know Bob, I have never tried that.
Can I place books without the danger of contamination? Can I use mineral oil in the mix (in place of linseed oil)?
Molambo, I have books on this one, after about a week the oil is dry enough to let the books rest on them. Now if you finished it and the next day you packed it with books and left them there in the same spot for a year or two. Then you may have some problem with them sticking to the shelf. Now if you have some rare books, I would check on how to store them properly, because an oiled surface may not be the the best place to leave them if you are worried about contamination. I do not have that knowledge so I can't make any recommendations for that, sorry. I am not sure about mineral oil in place of linseed oil, never tried that. I hope that helps. Take care.
Hey, thanks for the great video! I have a question can we mix oil wood stain with Danish oil for dark color or is it better just stain the wood & than use polyurethane over it? Thanks
Vic key, I have never tried mixing stain with Danish oil, but I would think that would work. Mix a small amount and try it on a scrap piece of wood. Danish oil does come in different colors so you can skip the staining step all together. Hopefully that helps, and thanks for watching.
Great on wooden arrows.....allegedly. 🤗🤗
That is good to know. I have never used them on arrow, but that would make sense. Thanks for watching.
I use danish oil all the time and really like it. I will rub it in with my hands on smaller pieces. If you were going to top coat with poly, how long do you have to wait?
Can says 72 hours...but I usually go 7 days
Agree with Matthew, generally 72 hours, but that will depend on the weather and humidity. It is always safe to wait a week to prevent any area that may not have dried yet. Thanks for watching.
I agree with you Matthew, I will always wait a week.
How is Danish oil with mdf?
I am not sure, I have never tried it on MDF. I would think you would need to add a lot to the edges, they tend to soak in finishes.
@@MadNerdWorkshop Thank you
This video’s great! Wonderful explanation! Do you think that a lower temperature would affect the way it soaks in, or would it just take longer? Thanks!!
I know a lower temperature would take longer to cure and I would think that would allow the oil to soak in more. But I am not really sure how much of a difference it would make. Too low of a temperature would mess up the finish entirely.
Really cool! Im gonna use that on a reclaimed honey locust wood table. What are the little blue things you have your wood sitting on?
That will look really nice Bonnie. Those little blue things are Bench cookies from Rockler. They are a must have, at least for my shop. Thanks for watching.
Excellent video and informative, didn't know you need to shake or wipe off. Would it be possible or dangerous to "stabilize" the wood in a vacuum chamber so it penetrates 100% on the first go? (New to wood stabilization)
I am not sure that Wood stabilization would work for this. When you stabilize would you reduce the atmosphere so that all the air is pulled out of the wood. Then when you re-introduce air into the chamber the vacuum caused in the wood pulls in the resin. The resin doesn’t need Air to Cure, that happens through heat. Oil needs air to cure, So I’m not sure if it could dry in the center of the wood. But I have never tried it, so I can’t be sure.
@@MadNerdWorkshop your right I agree, I'll just stick to applying it the way I have been, thanks
Doesn't mention what you would use to clean the brush etc.
Sorry, I did not mention that at all. You would use paint thinner or mineral sprits. I always use rags or throw away brushes. I think I am just too lazy to clean them. Thanks for Watching!
Think your recommended method the best, however I tried detergent /washing up liquid and worked okay. I use throwaway brushes usually too. Thanks for your reply 👍@@MadNerdWorkshop