I have a giant revolt advance 0. Has hookless rims. They ride great but im always waiting for them to fail. Just having this in my mind messes up my rides. For that reason alone, i do NOT recommend hookless, evan on gravel.
I've got a Giant tcr disc pro, with hookless rims, I crap myself when I take these wheels out, cornering etc. In case they pop off rim! Swooped with a pristine set of Fulcrum hooked lower rim depth with tpu tubes! I feel much more confident again!
Totally agree with the recommendation of a good quality tire combined with a TPU tube. My new bike came with mid-level Continental tires and "regular" butyl tubes. I replaced them with Continental GP5000 tires and RideNow TPU tubes. I saved a total of 200 grams simply due to exchanging the butyl tubes with the TPU tubes. I saved additional grams by switching to the GP5000s. I immediately noticed an improved ride quality (smoother). I also immediately noticed an improved ability to accelerate due to the decreased moment of inertia of the wheels. As all you engineers and physicists know, the moment of inertia of a innertube is essentially given by I=MR². Since the tube is at the outermost radius of the wheel, reducing its mass gives you a "big bang for the buck" in terms of reduced moment of inertia and increased acceleration.
Wow, I just looked up the price. Remember when Brian from Langdale Lighweights built me a set of Campy Record hubs drilled for flat spokes on 18mm Assos rims for £250. They were so good I loaned them out. Like the review if people want to repack per se, but a lot of wasted money on weight vs. quality. Cheers bud.
I totally agree on using TPU tubes, totally sold on them. The correct brand (I use RidNow) are also great with rim brake set ups. I researched reaming of p-hub and lost my breakfast haha. Sort of reminded me of fitting a pressfit ' 'bottom bracket'!
RideNow 19g are way too fragile. On paper it’s WOW, but in reality 3/4 died before/after 1st ride for me. 24g bit more reliable but there are hit & miss. 1/2 didn’t work. I have ordered dozens of them over the last few months from different sellers.
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider I didn't even know they did a 19g tube. That is far too light for rim brake. The 36g tubes I use are rim brake rated and no issues or punctures even in 2 years regular use, on wonderful Welsh roads!
@@DPbike lucky you. I guess yeah the 36g are stronger. I even use 50g Gravel / MTB TPU tubes on my Gravel bike and they’re great. 24g are RideNow but some other cheaper brands are offering 28g a tiny bit stronger, but some hit & miss. But these cost like $4 basically the same price as a 100g butyl tube now!!
Great review! Really appreciate the thoroughness of breaking down the wheel into its individual components like the Stren carbon spokes and Koyo bearings.
I'd rather run a marathon in flip flops than faff with hookless tubeless. I've used gatorskinz they are tough but i found a bit hard. Be careful with TPU tubes folks they are easy to pierce so put a small amount pressure in the tube before fitting. If you can fit a tyre without levers then even better. I had a Magene p325 crankset was good apart from the battery life was wanting and the charging points I found fiddly. I have their computer for backup and it's solid for the little money. I think the future for the good generic brands is getting the supply chain sorted to the point that you can buy in your country not ex China.
Hambini, do you have any concern about how thin the hook is on this rim as shown at 2:41 in the video? This may be just the angle of the camera, but would it be more susceptible to damage on impact than other brands? Thanks as always for your reviews and keeping manufacturers honest!
Had 2 Tubolito and 3 RideNow go in 2 months. Decent tyre pressure, 3 leaked from the valve, i have heard the same from 2 other people about TPU, leaky valves
I was almost ready to e-mail LTT that Hambini and LTT need to do a collab and hook Hambini up with the slickest solidworks machine ever. Considering the kind of relationship they already have with - for example - D-brand, it would be right up their alley. 😃
He is the epitome of commercialized youtube clips. Both he and Mr. Beast are business. I avoid both. If the clip is not organic in nature i dont bother. If the clip starts out with a 1 min intro, i dont bother. If the clip starts out with begging for clicks, likes and subs then money, i dont bother. If the clip has baked in ads to avoid the ad blockers i dont bother.
I own a pair of Exar's DB58pros, unfortunately had to send them in for warranty as there's this super loud sound when first engaging in the hub. It seems that many Chinese brands are facing similar issues with hubs after 1 year of use as seen in chinese forums.
@@trentvlak You obviously do not understand the dynamics of a spoked wheel. The tension on the spokes about 120 kg is needed so that the varying tension on the spokes due to rolling, pedaling and braking is small compared to constant spoke tension, otherwise spokes fatigue and break. With dished wheels 2:1 spoking allows both sides of the wheel to have similar spoke tensions making the wheel more reliable. With one piece hubs the torque is transferred to all the tangentially laced spokes. Ideally spoked bicycle wheels would not be dished, and for heavy 100 kg plus riders I build frames with the chain stays offset to remove the dish in the rear wheel. Bikes for riders up to 150 kg have no wheel/spoke issues. Twisted cranks, bend pedal spindles, bend seat posts but no wheel problems.
@@dan2304 No, I do understand. Mavic and Zipp tried radial spokes on the drive side and it didn't work out for them. Doing it on the braking side is double the mistake. Try to be more humble in the future.
@@trentvlak As a mechanical engineer and 40 years frame and wheel building I am being humble, trying to increase understanding of something I am passionate about. They were not the only ones and radial lacing on the drive side does not address the problem of spoke tension on a dished rear wheel. 1:1 spoke lacing on a dished 11 speed rear hub produces spokes on the drive side some 2-2.5 times the tension as on the non-drive side. As the rim limits tension for spokes at about 120 kg some go to 140 kg that means the non-drive spokes are too lose and are unreliable due to changes in tension causing fatigue and fracture. With 2:1 lacing with 2 tangential lace drive side spokes and 1 either tangential or radial on the non-drive side produces spokes of roughly even tension on both sides of the wheel. With a 3 mm asymmetric rim and 2:1 lacing as described a dished rear wheel with the same spoke tension on both sides of the wheel can be obtained. The front wheel due to the low fraction of the weight load that it carries and wider flange spacing is much more tolerant but with disc brakes must have at least one side tangential lacing.
On the subject of wheel/tire balance: having some experience balancing automotive tires, on the larger off-road tire/rim combinations it can be impossible to balance the set. In this case we go with the large transport truck solution and use glass beads. It’s some king of voodoo magic but it works once the wheels start spinning. So, would the sealant in a tubeless setup have a similar effect to the glass beads and distribute around the tire in a way to offset any imbalance?
Hooked is the only way for a big guy like me to go. From all my research, hookless only benefits the manufacturers due to simplified production processes.
Hambini you are hilarious honest and above all else, so fucking generous with your time, energy, focus and attention. You are a rare human being and I so appreciate everything you do. If I had a million dollars, I wouldnt be a millionaire because Id be sending you a fuckton of cash to say thanks.
Hambini, if you had to choose one wheel set, would it be Princeton Carbonworks , Lun HYPER, or the MAGENE EXAR? I'm looking for new wheels and now dont know which ones to get.
As the 500th liked viewer, I hope the quality and customer service for their wheels will hold up better than their crappy electronics division ( I went through certain harrowing smart trainer and power meter warranty episodes with Magene).
I've been looking at getting these - My main concern is the way the carbon spokes attach to the hub is "open" - Other companies like Farsports have this closed off. Does this make a difference from a safety perspective?
Dream of throwing something like this on my bike as typically top out around 75kph. Trouble being i run a Duratec race tandem as a blind stoker. If only i could grab and go with off the shelf products
That’s a straight-pull system, and with those spoke tensions (assuming they’re maintained), they’re not coming out of there, even if it may look mighty strange. Personally, I’ve only built J-bend spoke wheels, but one downside / point of interest that I have for straight-pull systems like these is water retention and corrosion. We’re talking about different brands here, but since some of the spoke heads always rest on the hub ’flanges’ horizontally, they tend to retain water quite well, it sticking between the spoke heads and the flanges. I’ve seen pics of some pretty bad-looking corrosion that’s started to develop on some wheels over time. Those were on the MTB-side of things, though, which means worse riding conditions, more mud and muck, as well as (often) less maintenance. I’d also be interested in real-world user experiences of where that leads to (besides the infirmary 😃) and most of all, how quickly. Compared with the J-bend, the straight-pull is a relatively new system, so I assume there’s not that much consumer-level data out there yet. Realistically, though, if you’re buying this very wheelset, I don’t think you’re going to be riding too much in the rain, at least intentionally, and even if you are, I’d assume (at least) that the flanges get dried with compressed air straight after, so this kind of corrosion damage should be a non-issue. As a side note, outside of competition-level wheelsets like these where weight reduction is a true merit and where you need a system to attach carbon spokes, I’m not a fan of the straight-pull system. It’s often marketed as eliminating the ’weak point’ of J-bend spokes, which is the elbow of the spoke. If you know anything about steel, however, you know to stress-relieve the steel spokes after you build a J-bend wheel, which brings the inherent stress of the elbow well below its yield. This removes the ’weak point’ and you’ll have a happy wheel that will likely outlast you.
@@CodSlap I prefer traditional hubs for J-bend spokes. The reason is: tangential spoke patterns. With J-bend hubs you can do radial, tangential 2-cross, 3-cross, 4-cross, crow foot and so on. You can choose. With straight pull hubs you are limited only by the spoke lacing pattern that was determined by manufacturer and if you lose a spoke, more often than not it is PITA to find the replacement spoke for your particular wheelset. Usually, rim-brake road bike wheelsets come with the front wheel laced radially. I don't like that. Not only you get overly stiff wheel, but also they look just ugly. Overall, J-bend is: user-friendly, corrosion free, choice-friendly, wallet-friendly. Straight pull just adds complications for no real benefit.
@@tweed0929 Agreed. 👍 Straight-pull has its use cases, but at least for me personally (and probably for most of the Joe Averages out there), J-bend tends to be the way to go. That being said, I may just be a full luddite too when it comes to my wrenching. 😃 I worked in very IT-heavy fields before I retired, so now when it comes to simple machines like bicycles, I like them tried-and-true and relatively low-tech. It’s simple hardtails, steel frames, hydraulics and cables for me… 🤪
@@tweed0929problem with a J bend is you have a point of wear as the spoke moves radially ever so slightly under compression. MTB moved to straight pull as spokes were known to break at the bend from stress cycling.
Great video Hambini. But like you said on your video they Magene knew they were sending these wheels for you to review. I ordered a pair and they NOT OUT THE BOX BALANCE and the bearing used by Magene are takino hybrid bearing that spin like SHIT. I would return them ASAP
The only thing you need to know about hookless is what @PeakTorque has mentioned: if hookless were the shit, all these fairly sophisticated Xiamen-based rim manufacturers would be swarming over it, yet... they are not, and that's really telling. Anecdotally, I've a set of Enve 3.4ARs with Michelin Pro TLR 32s and they feel... interesting in hard cornering or descents. You get a really good sense of what you can trust when doing certain descents, and taking those wheels down Gibraltar road in Santa Barbara is not something I'd wish to repeat, yet that route has felt totally fine on anything else, from Hed C2s to Bora WTOs.
Fortunately the air you're pushing your way through isn't snobby, it couldn't give a shit what stickers are on your bike or its components, if it works, it works.
I skipped all the way to the last powerpoint. I skipped all the goodies to find your conlusion. so it is yes we can buy it. ok good. I found what i'm here for
Are the spokes sufficiently captured at the hub? I don't want a single broken spoke leading to rapid detensioning of the other spokes and subsequent wheel disassembly
Hello there, I have a 105 compact 50/34 chain ring that needs replacing. It is a 10 speed gear and I was wondering if I could replace the 10speed chain rings for the new version 105 11speed chain rings? Thank you for your help
Did anyone else test these wheels on the road? I have them and experience significant wind sensitivity at the front. At high speed, it seems to even tend to wobble. Now the problem is that my bike is also brand new so I can’t compare with another wheelset on that bike. But on my old bike, Trek Emonda, i had 50 wheels as well and never experienced such behavior. I guess next step is to borrow another wheelset and compare.
Tubeless isn't about weight savings, it is about sealing punctures. With tubeless you can use Conti 5000 and still not get punctures because they will be sealed. No need for those heavy sluggish Gatorskinz.
Hello Hambini! Thank you for your Videos. I have a question, before i buy a Wheelset from China. 1. I buy Rim Brake Wheelset 2. I wanna between 50mm and 65mm Rim Deapth 3. My Budget is 1200$ 4. I wanna under 1500g Wheelset. Could you recommend a Wheelsets? Thank you in Advance and best regards
Will these wheels fit a Giant Propel Advance 2? Im considering either 25c or 28c tubeless tires. What measurements should I take to find out if these wheels will fit my bike?
Speaking of hookless wheels. I had the brand new Envee 4.5 on my brand new bike for one day. I took the bike from the dealer, took few shots of the new bike beside my old, and stored the bike in the garage. Coming from regular hooked + tube wheel (100psi), I put the maximum advertised pressure in both tires 80 psi. I noticed the rear wheel seems to lose its air and was making weird noise, as if the spokes where singing. I added some more air later in the evening back to 80psi. The rear wheel was still signing, ding ding ding. Eventually later at night I heard a big explosion in the garage. The rear wheel had completely exploded from the inside out. The earlier noise was not spokes singing but rather the carbon rim delaminating. I since changed them for roval clx II, a tubeless ready hooked rim with 130psi max tube pressure, and 110psi max tubeless psi. Never again hookless rim. I can't attached picture here but I can email them to you if you want them. Very scary.
Max psi for those wheels is in the 70s though. Now, it should not blow at 10psi over and in fact should be good to almost double in theory but I’m also out on hookless. I don’t see what it gets me and I’m annoyed that makers like zipp and enve have gone exclusively to it.
Max for hookless is 73psi and to be on the safe side better use 28mm width tires. Its pretty dangerous because some manufacturers specced the bike with hookless wheel which many are not aware of the max psi which could result in catastrophic blowout 😢
Zipp max hookless is 73. Envee max hookless is 80. Check the specs if you don't believe me. Still, there should be a safety margin. If it's writen max psi 80, it should have been tested for 90 or 95. Plus, they where sitting in my garage brand new at 21C. This is unacceptable safety margin.
I've not measured the weight distribution of a tyre so maybe it doesn't matter so much, but shouldn't the wheel be balanced with the tyre installed for ultimate pedantry?
Yeah you gotta take into account the valve weight which is around 5 ior 6 grams more if you've got really deep section rims plus extenders, sounds like fuch all but it doesn't feel like fuch all at 45mph tho.
Fyi there are muuuuuch better high puncture resistant tyres nowadays, like Pirelli's Cinturato Velo. Gatorskins have the worst possible wet grip you'll ever see in a tyre, which isn't especially good for cycling in Britain.
Yeah. When someone recommends Gatorskins to newbies on forums, it's like the worst kind of advice a man can give to someone with no experience. Gatorskins don't grip on wet. The same goes for wallet-friendly Continental Ultra Sport and Ultra Race. Very nice ride quality, but zero grip on wet.
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
There's a special place in hell for the companies' employees pushing hookless
I have a giant revolt advance 0. Has hookless rims. They ride great but im always waiting for them to fail. Just having this in my mind messes up my rides. For that reason alone, i do NOT recommend hookless, evan on gravel.
It's also the fucking bike shops that need a reaming for pushing it
It's about as sane as a parachute manufacturer removing the reserve release because you'd hardly use it.
I've got a Giant tcr disc pro, with hookless rims, I crap myself when I take these wheels out, cornering etc. In case they pop off rim! Swooped with a pristine set of Fulcrum hooked lower rim depth with tpu tubes! I feel much more confident again!
Yep. Hookless means safety is not a major concern for companies who pushes it.
Totally agree with the recommendation of a good quality tire combined with a TPU tube. My new bike came with mid-level Continental tires and "regular" butyl tubes. I replaced them with Continental GP5000 tires and RideNow TPU tubes. I saved a total of 200 grams simply due to exchanging the butyl tubes with the TPU tubes. I saved additional grams by switching to the GP5000s. I immediately noticed an improved ride quality (smoother). I also immediately noticed an improved ability to accelerate due to the decreased moment of inertia of the wheels. As all you engineers and physicists know, the moment of inertia of a innertube is essentially given by I=MR². Since the tube is at the outermost radius of the wheel, reducing its mass gives you a "big bang for the buck" in terms of reduced moment of inertia and increased acceleration.
Glad you mentioned how using tpu inner tubes is just fantastic. using them on a road and gravel bike. no issues, no nonsense.
Good to hear. Aborted tubeless
Hambini, You make me laugh while giving me excellent information about every bicycle manufacturer.
Cheers mate
Absolutely brilliant. I was redirected to your website after I typed in reaming.
These wheels look amazing, thanks for the review. I only miss info about how they works on crosswinds in front of their comptence...
🤯 Just when we thought we knew the real hambini, this info hits like a bombshell!
That pause at 21:43 is golden
Thanks for going to all this work. It's really helpful. My thankful gratitude to yu
Can't believe the tea spilled on hambini's true identity! 😮
Suddenly it all makes sense. The BB’s, NASA, Formula 1, bearing knowledge hahaha
Wow, I just looked up the price. Remember when Brian from Langdale Lighweights built me a set of Campy Record hubs drilled for flat spokes on 18mm Assos rims for £250. They were so good I loaned them out. Like the review if people want to repack per se, but a lot of wasted money on weight vs. quality. Cheers bud.
It looks legit to me. All the photos match the map locations.
I have their taillight with radar and heart rate monitor both excellent products and good value for money,
The inner tubes look exactly the same as the Ride Now ones. Those are widely available, cheap and amazing. Haven't had a flat in a long time.
You're surely not putting your lack of punctures down to tpu inner tubes
my ride on tube leaked from the value join after about 500 miles shit for 16gbp
Butyl tubes for me. Havn't had a flat for at least three thousand miles ...I might try tpu when they're no.longer the price of a decent tyre.
I have there wheels. And they are some of the best wheels I own. TPU tubes and 23mm internal makes a huge difference.
Sure does big boy
waiting for ur comparison and review on the wheel
Show me your beaver!@@Hambini
I totally agree on using TPU tubes, totally sold on them. The correct brand (I use RidNow) are also great with rim brake set ups. I researched reaming of p-hub and lost my breakfast haha. Sort of reminded me of fitting a pressfit ' 'bottom bracket'!
RideNow 19g are way too fragile. On paper it’s WOW, but in reality 3/4 died before/after 1st ride for me. 24g bit more reliable but there are hit & miss. 1/2 didn’t work. I have ordered dozens of them over the last few months from different sellers.
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider I didn't even know they did a 19g tube. That is far too light for rim brake. The 36g tubes I use are rim brake rated and no issues or punctures even in 2 years regular use, on wonderful Welsh roads!
@@DPbike lucky you. I guess yeah the 36g are stronger. I even use 50g Gravel / MTB TPU tubes on my Gravel bike and they’re great. 24g are RideNow but some other cheaper brands are offering 28g a tiny bit stronger, but some hit & miss. But these cost like $4 basically the same price as a 100g butyl tube now!!
@@SamuelBlackMetalRider Been usin 36g ones for months. Absolutely no issues. I should add i use GP5000 tires
Great review! Really appreciate the thoroughness of breaking down the wheel into its individual components like the Stren carbon spokes and Koyo bearings.
I'd rather run a marathon in flip flops than faff with hookless tubeless. I've used gatorskinz they are tough but i found a bit hard. Be careful with TPU tubes folks they are easy to pierce so put a small amount pressure in the tube before fitting. If you can fit a tyre without levers then even better. I had a Magene p325 crankset was good apart from the battery life was wanting and the charging points I found fiddly. I have their computer for backup and it's solid for the little money. I think the future for the good generic brands is getting the supply chain sorted to the point that you can buy in your country not ex China.
This is Gold. I didn’t know that tax avoidance is illegal in UK.
”The child-friendly reaming channel” - pls send help, the BBC blurb team has hijacked Hambini’s teleprompter. 😃
The only thing keeping me from getting a wheelset like this is that I love the silence of my Onyx hubs! Thanks for the review.
According to Magene the spokes are Hongji Weiye st-01 carbon spokes.
Quiet freewheel and rotor perfection?
SOLD!
OMG yes, please. Loud hubs/wheels are just as annoying as loud motorcycles! :)
Hambini, do you have any concern about how thin the hook is on this rim as shown at 2:41 in the video? This may be just the angle of the camera, but would it be more susceptible to damage on impact than other brands? Thanks as always for your reviews and keeping manufacturers honest!
I have a Magene power meter 👌🏻 Magene rear bike radar 👌🏻 now it’s time to get Magene wheelset
Had 2 Tubolito and 3 RideNow go in 2 months. Decent tyre pressure, 3 leaked from the valve, i have heard the same from 2 other people about TPU, leaky valves
I've had a leaky TPU tube too, but 2 out of 5 really is bad luck.
4 out of 9 for me. It's a shame because I love them !
Kudos Hambini for pronouncing Nokia correctly like us Finns do. I have been to the town of Nokia.
Saving this for later. I hope it won’t vanish too fast.
What a call out to LTT! Love it. The PeN iS working well this time...
Dat linus tech tips part lol
I was almost ready to e-mail LTT that Hambini and LTT need to do a collab and hook Hambini up with the slickest solidworks machine ever. Considering the kind of relationship they already have with - for example - D-brand, it would be right up their alley. 😃
Linus would auction Hambini bottom bracket without Hambini even knowing it.
@@tweed0929 Savage! 🤣
@@tweed0929 😆😆😆
He is the epitome of commercialized youtube clips. Both he and Mr. Beast are business. I avoid both. If the clip is not organic in nature i dont bother. If the clip starts out with a 1 min intro, i dont bother. If the clip starts out with begging for clicks, likes and subs then money, i dont bother. If the clip has baked in ads to avoid the ad blockers i dont bother.
balancing is very interesting to me, did you build your own system or are you using a commercial balancer?
I own a pair of Exar's DB58pros, unfortunately had to send them in for warranty as there's this super loud sound when first engaging in the hub.
It seems that many Chinese brands are facing similar issues with hubs after 1 year of use as seen in chinese forums.
Pro was using the pawl system instead of star rachet.
You should tell your audience more about the Fe / C diagram. That's worth a whole 30 minute show😊
I had Zipp 808s. The scariest wheels I ever raced on, wobbly at speed, very wobbly.
Great video! Can you do campagnolo wheels?
Three cheers for dynamically balanced wheels+tires. And good chain line.
HOOKED!!!! 🙌🙌🙌🙌
Also spoked 2x drive side 1 radial the other which compensates for the weekness caused by dished wheels.
The torque from braking is more than from pedaling so it's dumb to do 2:1 on disc rear wheels.
@@trentvlak You obviously do not understand the dynamics of a spoked wheel. The tension on the spokes about 120 kg is needed so that the varying tension on the spokes due to rolling, pedaling and braking is small compared to constant spoke tension, otherwise spokes fatigue and break. With dished wheels 2:1 spoking allows both sides of the wheel to have similar spoke tensions making the wheel more reliable. With one piece hubs the torque is transferred to all the tangentially laced spokes. Ideally spoked bicycle wheels would not be dished, and for heavy 100 kg plus riders I build frames with the chain stays offset to remove the dish in the rear wheel. Bikes for riders up to 150 kg have no wheel/spoke issues. Twisted cranks, bend pedal spindles, bend seat posts but no wheel problems.
@@dan2304 No, I do understand. Mavic and Zipp tried radial spokes on the drive side and it didn't work out for them. Doing it on the braking side is double the mistake. Try to be more humble in the future.
@@trentvlak As a mechanical engineer and 40 years frame and wheel building I am being humble, trying to increase understanding of something I am passionate about. They were not the only ones and radial lacing on the drive side does not address the problem of spoke tension on a dished rear wheel. 1:1 spoke lacing on a dished 11 speed rear hub produces spokes on the drive side some 2-2.5 times the tension as on the non-drive side. As the rim limits tension for spokes at about 120 kg some go to 140 kg that means the non-drive spokes are too lose and are unreliable due to changes in tension causing fatigue and fracture. With 2:1 lacing with 2 tangential lace drive side spokes and 1 either tangential or radial on the non-drive side produces spokes of roughly even tension on both sides of the wheel. With a 3 mm asymmetric rim and 2:1 lacing as described a dished rear wheel with the same spoke tension on both sides of the wheel can be obtained. The front wheel due to the low fraction of the weight load that it carries and wider flange spacing is much more tolerant but with disc brakes must have at least one side tangential lacing.
On the subject of wheel/tire balance: having some experience balancing automotive tires, on the larger off-road tire/rim combinations it can be impossible to balance the set. In this case we go with the large transport truck solution and use glass beads. It’s some king of voodoo magic but it works once the wheels start spinning. So, would the sealant in a tubeless setup have a similar effect to the glass beads and distribute around the tire in a way to offset any imbalance?
No. One is viscous and adherent, the other dry and able to seek new positioning and compliance to balance.
Hambs. Would you ever allow Sram to cut & blow your hair?
Yeah. I'm even more of a shill than David Arthur
@@Hambini Sir David, to you.
I can picture his face once he sees this. Can wait for the reaction.
My hairdresser doesn't like it without vibration.
My vibration prefers a hairdresser.
🤣
Those metrics for tension and out of balance looks amazing. Definitely live up to their billing!
Hooked is the only way for a big guy like me to go. From all my research, hookless only benefits the manufacturers due to simplified production processes.
Hambini you are hilarious honest and above all else, so fucking generous with your time, energy, focus and attention. You are a rare human being and I so appreciate everything you do. If I had a million dollars, I wouldnt be a millionaire because Id be sending you a fuckton of cash to say thanks.
The suit!!!! Your logo could mimic redtube lol
Where can I find your Eurobike video? You mentioned I could see the magene booth in the video, but I can't find it
Who would've thought? 🤔 DoubleLife?
Hambini, if you had to choose one wheel set, would it be Princeton Carbonworks , Lun HYPER, or the MAGENE EXAR? I'm looking for new wheels and now dont know which ones to get.
As the 500th liked viewer, I hope the quality and customer service for their wheels will hold up better than their crappy electronics division ( I went through certain harrowing smart trainer and power meter warranty episodes with Magene).
Had a heart rate monitor from magene which didn't work properly...
I've been looking at getting these - My main concern is the way the carbon spokes attach to the hub is "open" - Other companies like Farsports have this closed off. Does this make a difference from a safety perspective?
Dream of throwing something like this on my bike as typically top out around 75kph. Trouble being i run a Duratec race tandem as a blind stoker. If only i could grab and go with off the shelf products
Are you going to start posting on one of the other platforms XD ?
My man, I hope you consider exploring the e-bike world. It's the first time in my life I consider getting one...
Any issues with the way the spokes are attached to the hubs? They look exposed?
That’s a straight-pull system, and with those spoke tensions (assuming they’re maintained), they’re not coming out of there, even if it may look mighty strange. Personally, I’ve only built J-bend spoke wheels, but one downside / point of interest that I have for straight-pull systems like these is water retention and corrosion.
We’re talking about different brands here, but since some of the spoke heads always rest on the hub ’flanges’ horizontally, they tend to retain water quite well, it sticking between the spoke heads and the flanges. I’ve seen pics of some pretty bad-looking corrosion that’s started to develop on some wheels over time. Those were on the MTB-side of things, though, which means worse riding conditions, more mud and muck, as well as (often) less maintenance. I’d also be interested in real-world user experiences of where that leads to (besides the infirmary 😃) and most of all, how quickly.
Compared with the J-bend, the straight-pull is a relatively new system, so I assume there’s not that much consumer-level data out there yet. Realistically, though, if you’re buying this very wheelset, I don’t think you’re going to be riding too much in the rain, at least intentionally, and even if you are, I’d assume (at least) that the flanges get dried with compressed air straight after, so this kind of corrosion damage should be a non-issue.
As a side note, outside of competition-level wheelsets like these where weight reduction is a true merit and where you need a system to attach carbon spokes, I’m not a fan of the straight-pull system. It’s often marketed as eliminating the ’weak point’ of J-bend spokes, which is the elbow of the spoke. If you know anything about steel, however, you know to stress-relieve the steel spokes after you build a J-bend wheel, which brings the inherent stress of the elbow well below its yield. This removes the ’weak point’ and you’ll have a happy wheel that will likely outlast you.
@@CodSlap I prefer traditional hubs for J-bend spokes. The reason is: tangential spoke patterns. With J-bend hubs you can do radial, tangential 2-cross, 3-cross, 4-cross, crow foot and so on. You can choose. With straight pull hubs you are limited only by the spoke lacing pattern that was determined by manufacturer and if you lose a spoke, more often than not it is PITA to find the replacement spoke for your particular wheelset. Usually, rim-brake road bike wheelsets come with the front wheel laced radially. I don't like that. Not only you get overly stiff wheel, but also they look just ugly.
Overall, J-bend is: user-friendly, corrosion free, choice-friendly, wallet-friendly. Straight pull just adds complications for no real benefit.
I've never seen a j bend Carbon spoke
@@tweed0929 Agreed. 👍 Straight-pull has its use cases, but at least for me personally (and probably for most of the Joe Averages out there), J-bend tends to be the way to go.
That being said, I may just be a full luddite too when it comes to my wrenching. 😃 I worked in very IT-heavy fields before I retired, so now when it comes to simple machines like bicycles, I like them tried-and-true and relatively low-tech. It’s simple hardtails, steel frames, hydraulics and cables for me… 🤪
@@tweed0929problem with a J bend is you have a point of wear as the spoke moves radially ever so slightly under compression. MTB moved to straight pull as spokes were known to break at the bend from stress cycling.
Hey Hambini - For the aerodynamic chart, is more power absorption good or bad? Thanks
It's bad. The number wants to be as small as possible
Excellent review, as always 😎👍
Have Gatorskins changed since I last used them or is their traction still rubbish?
The moment of silence. Rip Hambini?
I love the Linus Tech Tips reference 😂😂
Great video Hambini. But like you said on your video they Magene knew they were sending these wheels for you to review. I ordered a pair and they NOT OUT THE BOX BALANCE and the bearing used by Magene are takino hybrid bearing that spin like SHIT. I would return them ASAP
Will these be added to the wheel power data sheets?
TPU inner tubes, besides the wright savings, save me $ considering theyre half the price of regular tubes at the local shop.
As a miserable f**king materials engineer, I can confidently say that your explanation of the martensite phase transformation was Zipp, I mean shi*. 😅
You missed the apostrophe in "The pens working". Other than that, great vid 👍
The only thing you need to know about hookless is what @PeakTorque has mentioned: if hookless were the shit, all these fairly sophisticated Xiamen-based rim manufacturers would be swarming over it, yet... they are not, and that's really telling. Anecdotally, I've a set of Enve 3.4ARs with Michelin Pro TLR 32s and they feel... interesting in hard cornering or descents. You get a really good sense of what you can trust when doing certain descents, and taking those wheels down Gibraltar road in Santa Barbara is not something I'd wish to repeat, yet that route has felt totally fine on anything else, from Hed C2s to Bora WTOs.
Is this page real? If yes we all’ve been conned. Well played.
What's their weight limit? 🤔
It had been nice to hear the hub. 😉
In my Cycling Club you must have Zipp Wheels and Maap Kit to be accepted, its Crazy!
Fortunately the air you're pushing your way through isn't snobby, it couldn't give a shit what stickers are on your bike or its components, if it works, it works.
Same in the golf club lol
You're in the wrong cycling club
@@davidsteel4139 I definitely second that, you don't need people like that in your life, they're no good to anyone but themselves.
why do you need a club for cycling? Clubs are just for drinking beer and regulars table shit.
32 tyres are fine with lower rolloing resistence on a 23 mm ID rim.
Hambini, EXAR or Lun hyperwheels 2023? I am looking for a wheel-set rim brake.
Are they available in the states??
I skipped all the way to the last powerpoint.
I skipped all the goodies to find your conlusion. so it is yes we can buy it. ok good. I found what i'm here for
Which one you consider is better Hyper Ultra or Magene?
Are the spokes sufficiently captured at the hub? I don't want a single broken spoke leading to rapid detensioning of the other spokes and subsequent wheel disassembly
There're some reviews on Taobao/Tmall that Magene exar rims too hard, fragile and easy to broken. Don't know if they were fixed or not.
Hello there,
I have a 105 compact 50/34 chain ring that needs replacing. It is a 10 speed gear and I was wondering if I could replace the 10speed chain rings for the new version 105 11speed chain rings?
Thank you for your help
I need a popcorn to read all this.
Did anyone else test these wheels on the road? I have them and experience significant wind sensitivity at the front. At high speed, it seems to even tend to wobble. Now the problem is that my bike is also brand new so I can’t compare with another wheelset on that bike. But on my old bike, Trek Emonda, i had 50 wheels as well and never experienced such behavior. I guess next step is to borrow another wheelset and compare.
Tubeless isn't about weight savings, it is about sealing punctures. With tubeless you can use Conti 5000 and still not get punctures because they will be sealed. No need for those heavy sluggish Gatorskinz.
Hello Hambini! Thank you for your Videos. I have a question, before i buy a Wheelset from China.
1. I buy Rim Brake Wheelset
2. I wanna between 50mm and 65mm Rim Deapth
3. My Budget is 1200$
4. I wanna under 1500g Wheelset.
Could you recommend a Wheelsets?
Thank you in Advance and best regards
What Schenck item are you using for out of balance?
Lateral sriffness?
Given the width of these wheels what size tires would you put on them? 28 or 30?
Can't find the price or how to buy on their website.
Panda podium link in the description
Hambini’s gone rogue 😅 I guess finally you got reamed
Fucking brilliant!!!! An oil refinery employee 🤣🤣🤣
Will these wheels fit a Giant Propel Advance 2? Im considering either 25c or 28c tubeless tires. What measurements should I take to find out if these wheels will fit my bike?
Awesome vid. Your hairdresser has been neglecting your hair. Probably busy elsewhere 🤣
Damn hambini even calling out LTT lol
Good job I have insomnia or I would not have been first
Speaking of hookless wheels. I had the brand new Envee 4.5 on my brand new bike for one day. I took the bike from the dealer, took few shots of the new bike beside my old, and stored the bike in the garage. Coming from regular hooked + tube wheel (100psi), I put the maximum advertised pressure in both tires 80 psi. I noticed the rear wheel seems to lose its air and was making weird noise, as if the spokes where singing. I added some more air later in the evening back to 80psi. The rear wheel was still signing, ding ding ding. Eventually later at night I heard a big explosion in the garage. The rear wheel had completely exploded from the inside out. The earlier noise was not spokes singing but rather the carbon rim delaminating. I since changed them for roval clx II, a tubeless ready hooked rim with 130psi max tube pressure, and 110psi max tubeless psi. Never again hookless rim.
I can't attached picture here but I can email them to you if you want them. Very scary.
Max psi for those wheels is in the 70s though. Now, it should not blow at 10psi over and in fact should be good to almost double in theory but I’m also out on hookless. I don’t see what it gets me and I’m annoyed that makers like zipp and enve have gone exclusively to it.
Max for hookless is 73psi and to be on the safe side better use 28mm width tires. Its pretty dangerous because some manufacturers specced the bike with hookless wheel which many are not aware of the max psi which could result in catastrophic blowout 😢
Zipp max hookless is 73. Envee max hookless is 80. Check the specs if you don't believe me. Still, there should be a safety margin. If it's writen max psi 80, it should have been tested for 90 or 95. Plus, they where sitting in my garage brand new at 21C. This is unacceptable safety margin.
@@patricehenri8172 😲 did you contacted Enve about that?
Holy shit man. Working at oil refinery?
I've not measured the weight distribution of a tyre so maybe it doesn't matter so much, but shouldn't the wheel be balanced with the tyre installed for ultimate pedantry?
Yeah you gotta take into account the valve weight which is around 5 ior 6 grams more if you've got really deep section rims plus extenders, sounds like fuch all but it doesn't feel like fuch all at 45mph tho.
Tbf if the wheel itself is well balanced its a lot easier to counter weight it with some accuracy. Flexy fridge magnets are you friend for this.
#Legend 😂 Best intro ever!
Rotating equipment engineer at prax. Just wow…
sub 40 10k? do you need aero wheels at 15kmh?
Fyi there are muuuuuch better high puncture resistant tyres nowadays, like Pirelli's Cinturato Velo. Gatorskins have the worst possible wet grip you'll ever see in a tyre, which isn't especially good for cycling in Britain.
Yeah. When someone recommends Gatorskins to newbies on forums, it's like the worst kind of advice a man can give to someone with no experience. Gatorskins don't grip on wet. The same goes for wallet-friendly Continental Ultra Sport and Ultra Race. Very nice ride quality, but zero grip on wet.
They are called pirelli ditchfinders for a reason. I'll stick with the continental
@@HambiniTry the Tufo duo comtura 28c it's my tyre of choice now.
Cinturato are very nice tires indeed. Roll beautifully, very supple considering their puncture resistance
@@Hambini whats the problem? t. 8000km on cunturato velos no ditches nor punctures
But why the hell are you running gatorskins??