I couldn't agree more but I have not a single qualification, not a single sheet of paper to my name, I smoke weed, don't own a set of aero rims and I don't wear shit lycra, yet I bet I can out climb and out descend all you fancy pants with your bits of paper and aero rims 🤣
@@superchickensoup if I would consume that kind of stuff it might be that I would also think I'm the best..... As a competition rider I would remind that weed is on the doping list 😉
I just wanted to say that you influenced both my decision which bike to buy and also my decision to get my bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering. So far both decisions have worked well. I am already looking forward to becoming 5.
I enjoy this content much more than the reaming stuff. The latter can be funny from time to time, but gets old quite quickly and feels a little forced. This flexing of your in depth knowledge is much more interesting for me.
ima old man from America, iv watch a few of your videos, love your dry smartass humor. i don't even ride a bike. last time i bought a bike it was in the 80s and it cost me 460 bucks and 8 months of saving working at 7-11 u have a new sub now and it's not only that your funny, i believe you're really trying to help people. plus, u also break down design flaws, homemade frames that the geometry isn't right nor the fit and finish for the cost. your humor is the bonus. again, thank u for your time.
Excellent video really informative and no shit-show commercial advertising BS . It’s great to have factual engineering guidance on such critical & expensive bike parts 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Good vid Hambini. I’m halfway through my own video like this, was worried you would cover it all, but there is still lots to add from a mechanics perspective. Durability, spoke tensions, spoke types, nipples, hub (lack of) quality! Agree with you that online reviews are copy and paste waste of space.
I had considered putting that in but you kind of have to draw a line somewhere and i guessed for most viewers, it was the buying experience they were interested in.
Hey Hambini! Love your hair, you’ll have to introduce me to your hairdresser. Let me challenge your presentation, if I might. You start by pointing to the futility of using air tunnels to evaluate wheel (and bike & rider) drag. Something with which I agree. But you then go on to make recommendations based on general aero concepts/rule of thumb and even make some watt estimates of savings (3 watts for hidden nipples, for example). Without some established mathematical basis, these general rules can’t really lead to good recommendations and you’ve offered no alternative basis to replace the wind tunnel estimates. As far as I know, the general body of aero knowledge has established that small low-speed profiles have different aero characteristics as compared to larger profiles at higher speeds. Most of the research related to this body of knowledge appears to come from work done with small windmills (think personal electricity generation) and model planes. But there is plenty of published work available in this realm. From spokes to frames, the profiles related to cycling are small and operate in a low-speed environment. So aerodynamics that apply to automobiles and jet planes don’t simply translate to cycling. And many of the profiles that marketing wankers push have the added complexity of dynamically changing as they are presented to airflow even when that airflow is stable. There is also the difficulty of keeping profiles properly pointed to the wind (in sailer speak) when the bicycle is traveling in a straight line and the wind direction is steady. Finally, there is the whole cumulative impact of small gains concept which argues from the assumption that there really are many small gains to be had, and that each can be built in independently of each other so they truly add up like 1 + 1 = 2. Instead let me suggest that each of these gains is sensitive to a variety of different factors (assuming that they can be realized at all). So each factor need to be adjusted by this and that sub-factor and probability of same. This leads to the assumed additive model being fragile in practice. Statistics is a relentless bitch. Given these considerations, general aerodynamic rules of thumb (apart from frontal area) can’t easily be applied to cycling. Let me offer a few examples related to wheels: 1) I believe that effective drag reduction with small low-speed airfoils require a profile with an aspect ratio of at least 10:1, not 4:1. 2) The top of the wheel (which is moving into the wind faster, due to rotation, than any other portion of the wheel) produces the majority of wheel drag. The profile the top presents to the wind is quite unlike any pictured cross-section profile used to describe a wheel/rim combo. All the discussion/analysis of bike wheel profiles ignore that only a brief band of the frontal area conforms to the conventional cross section diagram. Hence discussions of shape, aspect ratio, trips and stalling affect based on this limited area of the wheel are not a good proxy for what occurs over the rest of the wheel. 3) Wheels (especially the front) are rarely pointed into the wind. First, cyclists move around on he road and both the movement and the turning & leaning related to same alter the wind direction. Second the wind can and does at various times come from all points of the compass. While there are prevailing weather and geographic factors that can make prevailing winds less than random in direction, the addition of route choices should make sure that, overall, wind direction is random. Depending on wind strength, this can dramatically impact apparent wind direction and speed on bicycle components, and thereby further dynamically alter the profile presented to the air. 4) The leading edge of a profile is by far the most aerodynamically important. For our wheels, that means he tires, not the rim. Some years ago, Reynolds offered aero down-tubes to frame builders. An American builder, preparing to build a frame to attack some track TT records had contacts in the Sandia National Labs for wind tunnel testing and computed flow analysis (Sandia being a place with powerful compute capabilities). It turned out that the tube didn’t reduce drag unless it was turned around backwards. The front edge was round leading to flow separation which the rear tapered edge couldn’t recapture. Because the down tube slopes, it actually presented a modestly parabolic shape to the airflow. While parabolic leading edge are generally preferred for drag reduction, this tube, even at its angle, didn’t have enough parabolic taper to reduce drag. Our tires don’t present parabolicly either. And I suspect riders wouldn’t really like their handling characteristics if they did. Perhaps one day a tire manufacturer will build a parabolic tire and we can find out. But with the limited control we have over tire shape, it’s not clear to me that rim design is the answer to our aero-prayers. I could go on, but I not trying to dump on you or troll. But I am curious about whether you’ve done much study into small low-speed aero profiles? I’m no engineer, so you know many things that I don’t. And if they relate to my analysis above, I’d love to learn from you. Best regards,
Great vid. I glanced over at my trusty old C50s as I watched. Shallow alpha critical angle, clean transition, bladed spokes, hidden nipples - all check. I’m now basking in the warm glow of a 5 year old's validation. 😊
Long time subscriber here and I need to say I love this style of video. Great job! Often, I found your traditional style of videos funny, but this style may have far better reach in wider audience. And more ppl understand that reviews on cycling websites and channels are just dishonest ads, the better. Good job!
Bit of a throwback to some of your earlier videos with less opinions and jokes (which are massively entertaining) but loads of really useful information explained well. As a sidenote, yourself @Hambini and @Peaktorque inspired me to start studying at age 31 to become a mechatronic engineer and your videos do bring some real life applications to the learning materials I'm studying, and also highlight the challenges of manufacturing / Lazy building techniques and sloppy standards in the bike industry. So thanks for that, and keep it up. Videos like yours will hopefully one day bring about change in the standards held in an industry with exponentially increasing prices.
Commenting to boost the numbers. I’m a fat f**k so it’s still cheaper for me to skip the Big Mac but I do appreciate helping me see through the marketing crap. Thank you.
I'm mostly interested in wheels that look cool because considering my abilities to pedal this is the only factor that really matters! Interesting vid nonetheless!
@@synsynsy True, esthetics can be much of the draw to a buyer. What's ironic is that spoke lacing, like pedals, can only be savoured when you're off the bike and it isn't moving.
@@Fetucinee for regular people looks are important. I mean... if you like your bike chances are you will ride it more. When someone asks me what 'first' bike to buy, i tell them to get one they really like. This way maybe they'll get hooked easier.
You didn't ask viewers to subscribe and you forgot to thank the sponsor of this video OMGZ11!1!1!!! In all seriousness though. Thank you for making this video, it is technical and also concise enough for most of us to understand and follow. Plus, if you lower the volume just enough you can hear GV/AK sphincters tightening, sounds like BB creak actually.
Thanks!. This is a VERY clear guide and greatly appreciated, coming from a qualified engineer and devoid of all the marketing BS. I'm saving this vid and will return to it again and again
As an early career engineer viewer, great video. I loved that you considered airfoil shapes and separation as well as friction losses in the hubs, failure cases, and everything else.
I've watched some and find them interesting and informative and contains good fitting practice. Language is as we would have used in ships engine rooms. I would say he is an expert in his subjects.
Superb video, for us no techies a list of specs that you'd recommend would be useful ie: this internal rim width, with this rim depth/profile, this bearing size, these manufacturers
Great video! The only thing I have trouble with is actually applying all the information into picking a wheelset. I understand that it might be difficult to give recommendations, but if you could give a few options based on everything in this video, I think that would be super helpful. This could of course also apply to frame sets and whatever else.
@@Hambini I am still in the boat of wanting to buy of local retailers that allow me to have the buyer protection laws or Sweden, are there are “big name brand” wheels that could fit the bill? Zipp, Roval, Enve, Scope, Duke to name a few.
All or most of this applies to the riders that are more in the upper category/level but for average joe you would not experience or reach the load/forces/speeds that often. But if you are in the upper category/level then this video is very crucial.
Thank you Hambini for sharing your wisdom. I might add, Zipp engineers, the engineers who take all new Zipp ideas to the wind tunnel and test, say "Anything more than 60 mm you're needlessly spinning more material than one needs to." Testing Roval wheels, they said their 65mm have less resistance than 80+.
You can replace the bearing cups on all the Campagnolo hubs, in fact they have been using the same parts in there hubs for many years. They do use sealed units in a couple of the cheap range
@@jonathangriffin6236 UK, Chicken cycle kit or i-ride. You need to go to a shop that has the correct tooling. Phone i-ride and get them to do it for you.
This video made me think - I'd love to hear your thoughts on spoke tensioning. As an MTB rider my approach to spoke tensioning is generally "Well, it doesn't seem completely fucked, so I guess I'll leave it alone" and I'm pretty sure that's sub-optimal.
Wow, Hambini did not swear on that one:). Thanks for the guide, really enjoyed. Just splashed out on the new Look 795 Blade Rs with cheap Chinese XLC 50mm wheels. Let’s see how they go.
Common sense should have told me that the wind tunnel videos were completely unrealistic. Your the only one who informed people of the wind tunnel being a perfect scenario. Commercials always show how air would hit perfectly head on. When I have ridden with sidewinds, rain, sandstorms and all kinds of horrible conditions. I don't care how aero it is the real world will destroy the bike and rider.
Really informative video. I don't road cycle but I am an avid Mtbiker and many of the info you give is relevant aside from the aero info which is why I follow you and watch your videos. And for a good laugh at the bike industry too lol.
Excellent video. The only comment I would add is that with Shimano hubs, you will get water ingress and the bearing surfaces will rust, ruining the hub. I now use hubs with cartridge bearings after 4 Shimano hubs were all ruined from water ingress. And no, I do not jet wash my bike.
I’m sure I’m going to have to watch this a few times. I’m a physics geek but this had extremely high technical information density even for me. It was very helpful and matter of fact too. The Hambini in my head completed your sign off catchphrase for you btw 😜
Great information! I didn't realize Hunt wheels were so much lesser in quality manufacturing techniques, since they get such good reviews online... thanks!
"a small amount of nipple is showing...but its not a crazy amount showing...so the loss is minimized" These are ALWAYS my EXACT sentiments! Why thank you Hambini!
It has slowly dawned on me over last year or so how much BS is peddled by the likes of GCN etc. I now look at the stuff they produce with a huge sceptical eye, profit over form & functional. Not surprising they can send their journo's on jollies to far flung places! Keep up the good work Hambini
Very, very, good video as usual! Manufacturers sells dreams. How many of us has been drooling over manufacturers catalogues, trusting their info, before making a decision to buy a certain wheelset. They are in the business of selling dreams to idiots with lot's of money like us recreational riders.
Honestly depends on the rim tire combo, my gp5000's and my Bontrager Aeolus 37's never keep a solid bead, there is always a spot that comes off the bead, and I'm almost always forced to throw in a tube. Yet my 650b wheelset I could ride them flat for 20 miles and the bead would be fine.
@@mrbuddha5263 interesting. How wide of a tire are you running on the Aeolus rsl 37s? I have a pair of Aeolus pro 3s and I use a Schwalbe one TLE. That bead is on there extremely tight
If you are riding in windy conditions hold on to your handlebars if you are on high profile wheels. Can be really dangerous if you don´t pay attention. I was starting riding with carbon high profile 60mm this spring and it took me with surprise.
Fantastic resource. Thank you. As someone who runs road tubeless thought it would be worth pointing out that while it is true that dealing with a tubeless tire failure in the field might be more difficult than a standard clincher, you're much less likely to have a tire failure in the first place. That said, if you run tubeless on well designed modern tubeless-first rim, dealing with the tire failure in the field, at least in my experience, is almost identical to dealing with a clincher failure. The main difference is that you'll want to remove excess sealant (although there's a good chance this all blew out if the tire didn't seal), and you'll probably need a boot. Holes that are small enough to not need a boot should get dealt with by the sealant.
I agree. I've had to deal with a flat that wouldn't seal up twice in five years and both times it wasn't really any worse than dealing with a flat with a tube. Both times most all the sealant was gone. One, I had to boot up and put in a tube. The other I didn't, so just had to put in a tube. (It was weird. It damaged the tire but didn't cut the fibers, and it was on the sidewall. So the sealant just couldn't seal it.)
This is a great format, and very informative, as you explain general considerations for engineering and manufacturing. Great idea. Good thing the pen is working
Thanks Hambini. Telling us what is good, can sometimes be more useful than telling us what's bad........ Probably not as funny though. I'd like to see more like this. Oh, and KBYHD!
The entry is a beautifull thing,I love the way you use the reaming and power point for foreplay and leave the lubrication and fitting as a form of ejaculation 👍
Hambini, you clearly know what you are talking about. I like to inform myself before I buy. Watching your video has not guided me towards buying a wheelset. On the contrary, all of the factors to consider don't make it easier, but if anything harder to buy a wheelset. At best it clearly steers me away from some wheels... Any suggestions how to condense all of the info in a buying decision? ;-)
Great points ! Have you ever run across any wheels from "Superteam"? I have two sets of tubeless ready Superteam wheels that have treated me very well; a 45mm set I put 32c gravelking SS tires on for a lot of tarmac and light gravel - and 38mm (with a 24mm internal width) for 40c medium knobby tires for more heavy gravel rides. If you added the cost of both sets I have spent less than $1,200 US and they came with a 3 year warranty.
I would love some examples of well build wheels with good value for money in each category. I mean, from budget to high-end recommendations. Said that I have learned a lot in this video. Very good indeed.
2 thoughts, it seems that making a « sensible very good wheel» is not complicated from the technical aspect ( not talking about manufacturing and QC) - so the r&d cost should be pretty limited, so why wheels are still fairly expensive for what they are ( even HYPER). Second is what about developing your own wheel and component, the product line could be called NBS= no b…s, I think there is a place for very good product that just need to work and do the job, and there is a place for shiny object ( Porsche vs Ferrari type of thing) Well made video
Great. Now I just need you to tell me which are the best bang for my buck wheels. 😂 I race 70-100 mile events with 5k-10,000’ of climbing and my bike is decked out with 105.
Watçh Hambinis detailed video on rim depth. He goes into nice detail about wind flow, manufacturer shortcomings, and which manufacturers actually do proper aero design.
At 02:50 Hambini says the main reason for disc brakes is marketing rather than engineering. With carbon rims, I consider disc brakes essential because carbon can't dissipate heat from rim caliper brakes, as well as metal rims can. Braking strips on carbon rims are a kludge.
@@Hambini Perhaps, for light to moderate braking. But not for heavy sustained braking. In this test, 8 of the 10 rims tested overheated and failed catastrophically. ruclips.net/video/OlZvFPdLulI/видео.html One finds plenty of cases where this happens in the real world, causing the wheel to explode and put the rider in the hospital, like this: ruclips.net/video/W0iMHkYpWFo/видео.html Disc brakes eliminate this risk. Knowing my wheel won't explode under sustained heavy braking is worth a marginal cost in weight & aero drag.
I wish bike shop owners would sell clients the correct gearing for their bikes!!! I forever see ppl turn up here with enough gears to climb a 3% hill!!! Being a Guide on Mallorca.. I get sick of seeing no0bs on superbikes with any ole shit gearing flung on!! When I explain to them the reality..they obviously feel dumb!! I have mates who are top top cyclists who live in Alps who are known to use 11/42 cassettes etc! For my guiding bike I use a GRX set up!! 48/31 with a 11/36.. U can call me a girl etc etc.. whilst I'm passing you on any climb...infact, noone except the pro's pass me here....I'd love a bike shop owner to tell a buyer, hey.. just buy a shimano 105 crank, then buy a set of absolute black 46/30oval chainrings (which will end up lighter than the latest dura ace chit... stick a 11/32 0r 11/34 on the rear and off you go and climb anything!!) or even, like me, just stick a cheap GRX 48/31 chainset on with a 11/36 and again... be comfortable climbing anything...and still keep up with almost all on flat!!! For me... that be a good bike shop - peace
PS - had a client turn up this morning with a brand spanking new F12 he bought at a certain well known bicycle shop in the UK...they knew the bike was destined to be kept and ridden on mallorca.. but he had a 52/36 ultegra chainset with a 11/28 cassette..now, my grandad on his Raleigh Chopper can go up the climbs here than this twit...infact, if a Palma traffic warden had wandered up Sa Creu then he would've been issued a Parking fine!!! PPS - the twit in question was 58 years old!!! Maybe a ribble e-bike would've been more astute!! and 1/4 the cost!!
Use a D-fender, mudguard like cover to go over the top half of the front wheel, as a fairing to cut through wind and use the head wind to your advantage.
Great video! Thanks so much! Looking forward for more of this kind of background info 👍🏼🙏🏼 btw, I have a math background and I‘m a triathlete 😁 so maybe a special audience 🤔 currently looking for a new wheelset 😅
TL:DW; Just buy the Winspace HYPERs? 🤔 Haha, but being serious, big love to Hambini for spreading knowledge and letting people make more informed purchasing decisions before parting with their hard-earned cash!
I'd love to see more of those educational videos. This was super useful and interesting for me. I'm studying aviation engineering, nice to see stuff that we learned there applied in bicycle components.
Outstanding. Again, you cut through the b.s. The only negative thoughts were there was no princess table cloth and hairdresser ending. Maturity of a 5+ year old maybe, as you offer a safety moment... street furniture and head impacts
Easy rule of thumb, conti 23mm on the front and you can’t go far wrong. I’m not sure if my swissside 62mm rim brake wheels have a late bulge, they’re 27mm about 3/4 the way to the trailing edge which is semi blunt, they do seem fast and stable, and the other rim depth did well in your aero testing (also hidden brass nipples and have had no need in two years to true them)
All or most of this applies to the riders that are more in the upper category/level but for average joe you would not experience or reach the load/forces/speeds that often. But great video!
Excellent video, thank you. I really enjoy and appreciate your engineering 'deep-dive' videos. Educating us in the real things we should be looking at, not just blithely following the marketing bs. Please continue stuff like this, and keep calling out the industry bollocks! Cheers mate 👍
Excellent vid! This may have been asked elsewhere but it would be very interesting to hear your thoughts on MadFiber wheels (specifically the tubular ones). The wheel industry has moved on since they were manufactured but those wheels seemed to tick alot of boxes.
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
Any feedback on this type of video is gratefully received!
Great video There is a slight editing error @7:43 fwiw.
@@qibble455 I’m guessing you joke
I like facts and hate marketing BS - so for me videos like this are gold 👍
Is that a new Jacket Mr. Hambini? Is it merch one can buy? Is the logo embroidered? Thanks Mr. Hambini! I'm off to bone my hair dresser.
How do you feel about using plastic spokes like BERD spokes to save weight?
Being an engineer - applied mathematics - and an avid cyclist I find this video extremely well made and very informative. Thank you.
I couldn’t agree more. PhD in Physics here
@@Jacob99174 👏
I couldn't agree more but I have not a single qualification, not a single sheet of paper to my name, I smoke weed, don't own a set of aero rims and I don't wear shit lycra, yet I bet I can out climb and out descend all you fancy pants with your bits of paper and aero rims 🤣
@@superchickensoup if I would consume that kind of stuff it might be that I would also think I'm the best..... As a competition rider I would remind that weed is on the doping list 😉
@@superchickensoup
Secondary education, high school education, home school - don’t matter. Get on two wheels, and get it!
I just wanted to say that you influenced both my decision which bike to buy and also my decision to get my bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering. So far both decisions have worked well. I am already looking forward to becoming 5.
🤘🏻
All the best with the degree. I did mine many years ago. Which bike did you get?
I enjoy this content much more than the reaming stuff. The latter can be funny from time to time, but gets old quite quickly and feels a little forced.
This flexing of your in depth knowledge is much more interesting for me.
Agreed!
ima old man from America, iv watch a few of your videos, love your dry smartass humor. i don't even ride a bike. last time i bought a bike it was in the 80s and it cost me 460 bucks and 8 months of saving working at 7-11 u have a new sub now and it's not only that your funny, i believe you're really trying to help people. plus, u also break down design flaws, homemade frames that the geometry isn't right nor the fit and finish for the cost. your humor is the bonus. again, thank u for your time.
Excellent video really informative and no shit-show commercial advertising BS . It’s great to have factual engineering guidance on such critical & expensive bike parts 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Love what he says about disc wheels.
Good vid Hambini. I’m halfway through my own video like this, was worried you would cover it all, but there is still lots to add from a mechanics perspective. Durability, spoke tensions, spoke types, nipples, hub (lack of) quality! Agree with you that online reviews are copy and paste waste of space.
I had considered putting that in but you kind of have to draw a line somewhere and i guessed for most viewers, it was the buying experience they were interested in.
This has to be the most subdued Hambini video ever made. Great information and presented nicely.
21 minutes and 0 grams of BS. Great video, exceptionally useful and well put together. Thanks Mr H.
Hey Hambini! Love your hair, you’ll have to introduce me to your hairdresser.
Let me challenge your presentation, if I might. You start by pointing to the futility of using air tunnels to evaluate wheel (and bike & rider) drag. Something with which I agree. But you then go on to make recommendations based on general aero concepts/rule of thumb and even make some watt estimates of savings (3 watts for hidden nipples, for example). Without some established mathematical basis, these general rules can’t really lead to good recommendations and you’ve offered no alternative basis to replace the wind tunnel estimates.
As far as I know, the general body of aero knowledge has established that small low-speed profiles have different aero characteristics as compared to larger profiles at higher speeds. Most of the research related to this body of knowledge appears to come from work done with small windmills (think personal electricity generation) and model planes. But there is plenty of published work available in this realm.
From spokes to frames, the profiles related to cycling are small and operate in a low-speed environment. So aerodynamics that apply to automobiles and jet planes don’t simply translate to cycling.
And many of the profiles that marketing wankers push have the added complexity of dynamically changing as they are presented to airflow even when that airflow is stable.
There is also the difficulty of keeping profiles properly pointed to the wind (in sailer speak) when the bicycle is traveling in a straight line and the wind direction is steady.
Finally, there is the whole cumulative impact of small gains concept which argues from the assumption that there really are many small gains to be had, and that each can be built in independently of each other so they truly add up like 1 + 1 = 2. Instead let me suggest that each of these gains is sensitive to a variety of different factors (assuming that they can be realized at all). So each factor need to be adjusted by this and that sub-factor and probability of same. This leads to the assumed additive model being fragile in practice. Statistics is a relentless bitch.
Given these considerations, general aerodynamic rules of thumb (apart from frontal area) can’t easily be applied to cycling.
Let me offer a few examples related to wheels:
1) I believe that effective drag reduction with small low-speed airfoils require a profile with an aspect ratio of at least 10:1, not 4:1.
2) The top of the wheel (which is moving into the wind faster, due to rotation, than any other portion of the wheel) produces the majority of wheel drag. The profile the top presents to the wind is quite unlike any pictured cross-section profile used to describe a wheel/rim combo. All the discussion/analysis of bike wheel profiles ignore that only a brief band of the frontal area conforms to the conventional cross section diagram. Hence discussions of shape, aspect ratio, trips and stalling affect based on this limited area of the wheel are not a good proxy for what occurs over the rest of the wheel.
3) Wheels (especially the front) are rarely pointed into the wind. First, cyclists move around on he road and both the movement and the turning & leaning related to same alter the wind direction. Second the wind can and does at various times come from all points of the compass. While there are prevailing weather and geographic factors that can make prevailing winds less than random in direction, the addition of route choices should make sure that, overall, wind direction is random. Depending on wind strength, this can dramatically impact apparent wind direction and speed on bicycle components, and thereby further dynamically alter the profile presented to the air.
4) The leading edge of a profile is by far the most aerodynamically important. For our wheels, that means he tires, not the rim. Some years ago, Reynolds offered aero down-tubes to frame builders. An American builder, preparing to build a frame to attack some track TT records had contacts in the Sandia National Labs for wind tunnel testing and computed flow analysis (Sandia being a place with powerful compute capabilities). It turned out that the tube didn’t reduce drag unless it was turned around backwards. The front edge was round leading to flow separation which the rear tapered edge couldn’t recapture. Because the down tube slopes, it actually presented a modestly parabolic shape to the airflow. While parabolic leading edge are generally preferred for drag reduction, this tube, even at its angle, didn’t have enough parabolic taper to reduce drag. Our tires don’t present parabolicly either. And I suspect riders wouldn’t really like their handling characteristics if they did. Perhaps one day a tire manufacturer will build a parabolic tire and we can find out. But with the limited control we have over tire shape, it’s not clear to me that rim design is the answer to our aero-prayers.
I could go on, but I not trying to dump on you or troll. But I am curious about whether you’ve done much study into small low-speed aero profiles? I’m no engineer, so you know many things that I don’t. And if they relate to my analysis above, I’d love to learn from you.
Best regards,
I casually watched your video. You're super. Nothing more to add. Thank you very much for your precious sharing.
Great vid. I glanced over at my trusty old C50s as I watched. Shallow alpha critical angle, clean transition, bladed spokes, hidden nipples - all check. I’m now basking in the warm glow of a 5 year old's validation. 😊
I've got a pair and they're brilliant. Also a pair of C35 too.
One of the most clear and easy speaking video about this topic. a big thanks!
Five has become seventeen now, pen is working like a charm. What a satisfying mature video this is!
Finally a real non payed video with the information I needed.
I was loosing hope on reviews already, tha internet is full of payed reviews
Long time subscriber here and I need to say I love this style of video. Great job! Often, I found your traditional style of videos funny, but this style may have far better reach in wider audience. And more ppl understand that reviews on cycling websites and channels are just dishonest ads, the better. Good job!
Bit of a throwback to some of your earlier videos with less opinions and jokes (which are massively entertaining) but loads of really useful information explained well.
As a sidenote, yourself @Hambini and @Peaktorque inspired me to start studying at age 31 to become a mechatronic engineer and your videos do bring some real life applications to the learning materials I'm studying, and also highlight the challenges of manufacturing / Lazy building techniques and sloppy standards in the bike industry.
So thanks for that, and keep it up. Videos like yours will hopefully one day bring about change in the standards held in an industry with exponentially increasing prices.
This was a very civilised and politely spoken video for Hambini 😁
Commenting to boost the numbers. I’m a fat f**k so it’s still cheaper for me to skip the Big Mac but I do appreciate helping me see through the marketing crap. Thank you.
Absolutely brilliant video, thank you so much 👍 this educational format to kill the marketing bs of cycling companies is definitely a winner 👏👏👏
I'm mostly interested in wheels that look cool because considering my abilities to pedal this is the only factor that really matters! Interesting vid nonetheless!
Yeah. I'm for real. Just bought a set of campagnolo because they look good with the 3 spoke pattern.
Tastes and objectives vary a lot.
@@synsynsy True, esthetics can be much of the draw to a buyer. What's ironic is that spoke lacing, like pedals, can only be savoured when you're off the bike and it isn't moving.
@@Fetucinee for regular people looks are important. I mean... if you like your bike chances are you will ride it more.
When someone asks me what 'first' bike to buy, i tell them to get one they really like. This way maybe they'll get hooked easier.
on point as always. Btw I am having 4k km on my Hyper 50mm since February. awesome so far
I like my information like my wine - dry. I did actually appreciate this quite a lot. Informative without any excess.
Extremely useful wheel buyers guide with no mainstream marketing BS. Very well explained for rim & disc. Bravo :)
You have just proven my suspicion that big brand names doesn’t always equate to better quality. Thanks and keep the videos coming!
Nice vid without the usual overt/hidden sales pitch. Thanks for the engineering information.
You didn't ask viewers to subscribe and you forgot to thank the sponsor of this video OMGZ11!1!1!!!
In all seriousness though. Thank you for making this video, it is technical and also concise enough for most of us to understand and follow. Plus, if you lower the volume just enough you can hear GV/AK sphincters tightening, sounds like BB creak actually.
Thanks!. This is a VERY clear guide and greatly appreciated, coming from a qualified engineer and devoid of all the marketing BS. I'm saving this vid and will return to it again and again
As an early career engineer viewer, great video. I loved that you considered airfoil shapes and separation as well as friction losses in the hubs, failure cases, and everything else.
I've watched some and find them interesting and informative and contains good fitting practice.
Language is as we would have used in ships engine rooms. I would say he is an expert in his subjects.
The geekier the better... love the video. Would like to see more videos along these lines. Thanks!
Superb video, for us no techies a list of specs that you'd recommend would be useful ie: this internal rim width, with this rim depth/profile, this bearing size, these manufacturers
Great video! The only thing I have trouble with is actually applying all the information into picking a wheelset. I understand that it might be difficult to give recommendations, but if you could give a few options based on everything in this video, I think that would be super helpful.
This could of course also apply to frame sets and whatever else.
linked in the description
@@Hambini I am still in the boat of wanting to buy of local retailers that allow me to have the buyer protection laws or Sweden, are there are “big name brand” wheels that could fit the bill?
Zipp, Roval, Enve, Scope, Duke to name a few.
All or most of this applies to the riders that are more in the upper category/level but for average joe you would not experience or reach the load/forces/speeds that often. But if you are in the upper category/level then this video is very crucial.
good mention about the pumping loss of disc. I didnt know it was that significant
With SO much shite content it's so cool to know someone is clear and honest. well done and thanks Mr H
Love this type of format. Highly informative. Thanks so much.
Thank you Hambini for sharing your wisdom. I might add, Zipp engineers, the engineers who take all new Zipp ideas to the wind tunnel and test, say "Anything more than 60 mm you're needlessly spinning more material than one needs to." Testing Roval wheels, they said their 65mm have less resistance than 80+.
Entonces por lo que le entendí a Usted, ¿más de 65mm es innecesario en ruta?. Gracias.
Hey Frenchie, I'm Pancho and I approve (of) this video.
You can replace the bearing cups on all the Campagnolo hubs, in fact they have been using the same parts in there hubs for many years. They do use sealed units in a couple of the cheap range
the inner cups as well? on shimano 105 you can replace the outer cup but not the inner cup wich is fused to the hub. wtf.
@@RevoltingRudi Yes the inner as well and that's on campag and fulcrum. That is why there good winter wheels in lot of ways
Where can you get the inner cups? My Fulcrum Racing 3 front hub needs a new cup and seems difficult to find.
@@jonathangriffin6236 UK, Chicken cycle kit or i-ride. You need to go to a shop that has the correct tooling. Phone i-ride and get them to do it for you.
Love your expertise and lack of BS.
This video made me think - I'd love to hear your thoughts on spoke tensioning. As an MTB rider my approach to spoke tensioning is generally "Well, it doesn't seem completely fucked, so I guess I'll leave it alone" and I'm pretty sure that's sub-optimal.
Wow, Hambini did not swear on that one:). Thanks for the guide, really enjoyed. Just splashed out on the new Look 795 Blade Rs with cheap Chinese XLC 50mm wheels. Let’s see how they go.
Lovely lecture. Everyday is a school day.
Common sense should have told me that the wind tunnel videos were completely unrealistic. Your the only one who informed people of the wind tunnel being a perfect scenario. Commercials always show how air would hit perfectly head on. When I have ridden with sidewinds, rain, sandstorms and all kinds of horrible conditions. I don't care how aero it is the real world will destroy the bike and rider.
Really informative video. I don't road cycle but I am an avid Mtbiker and many of the info you give is relevant aside from the aero info which is why I follow you and watch your videos. And for a good laugh at the bike industry too lol.
Why aren't there more engineers like you in the world. We need more like you!
Excellent video. The only comment I would add is that with Shimano hubs, you will get water ingress and the bearing surfaces will rust, ruining the hub. I now use hubs with cartridge bearings after 4 Shimano hubs were all ruined from water ingress. And no, I do not jet wash my bike.
I have had this same experience with a Shimano R35 hub on my MTB
Hambini broke it down. Well done.
I’m sure I’m going to have to watch this a few times. I’m a physics geek but this had extremely high technical information density even for me. It was very helpful and matter of fact too.
The Hambini in my head completed your sign off catchphrase for you btw 😜
Ridiculously informative, thanks for putting this together
Great information! I didn't realize Hunt wheels were so much lesser in quality manufacturing techniques, since they get such good reviews online... thanks!
"a small amount of nipple is showing...but its not a crazy amount showing...so the loss is minimized" These are ALWAYS my EXACT sentiments! Why thank you Hambini!
Thanks for making this! Love how your buyers guide is what to look for, and not which specific thing to buy.
It has slowly dawned on me over last year or so how much BS is peddled by the likes of GCN etc. I now look at the stuff they produce with a huge sceptical eye, profit over form & functional. Not surprising they can send their journo's on jollies to far flung places! Keep up the good work Hambini
Love it! On a side note, my wife is now studying hairdressing!
Very, very, good video as usual! Manufacturers sells dreams. How many of us has been drooling over manufacturers catalogues, trusting their info, before making a decision to buy a certain wheelset. They are in the business of selling dreams to idiots with lot's of money like us recreational riders.
My experience is that once a tubeless tire has been seated to the rim, a compressor is no longer required to reseat after a flat.
same
Honestly depends on the rim tire combo, my gp5000's and my Bontrager Aeolus 37's never keep a solid bead, there is always a spot that comes off the bead, and I'm almost always forced to throw in a tube. Yet my 650b wheelset I could ride them flat for 20 miles and the bead would be fine.
Wow. Totally opposite experience with GP5000 TL. I have to pry them off to get the beads loose. Prime black 50 rims.
@@mrbuddha5263 interesting. How wide of a tire are you running on the Aeolus rsl 37s? I have a pair of Aeolus pro 3s and I use a Schwalbe one TLE. That bead is on there extremely tight
Excellent video/guide with good evidence-based argumentation. Thanks!
If you are riding in windy conditions hold on to your handlebars if you are on high profile wheels. Can be really dangerous if you don´t pay attention. I was starting riding with carbon high profile 60mm this spring and it took me with surprise.
Fantastic resource. Thank you. As someone who runs road tubeless thought it would be worth pointing out that while it is true that dealing with a tubeless tire failure in the field might be more difficult than a standard clincher, you're much less likely to have a tire failure in the first place. That said, if you run tubeless on well designed modern tubeless-first rim, dealing with the tire failure in the field, at least in my experience, is almost identical to dealing with a clincher failure. The main difference is that you'll want to remove excess sealant (although there's a good chance this all blew out if the tire didn't seal), and you'll probably need a boot. Holes that are small enough to not need a boot should get dealt with by the sealant.
I agree. I've had to deal with a flat that wouldn't seal up twice in five years and both times it wasn't really any worse than dealing with a flat with a tube. Both times most all the sealant was gone. One, I had to boot up and put in a tube. The other I didn't, so just had to put in a tube. (It was weird. It damaged the tire but didn't cut the fibers, and it was on the sidewall. So the sealant just couldn't seal it.)
This is a great format, and very informative, as you explain general considerations for engineering and manufacturing. Great idea. Good thing the pen is working
Thanks Hambini. Telling us what is good, can sometimes be more useful than telling us what's bad........ Probably not as funny though. I'd like to see more like this. Oh, and KBYHD!
Will rewatch a few times to gather all the details 😀
The entry is a beautifull thing,I love the way you use the reaming and power point for foreplay and leave the lubrication and fitting as a form of ejaculation 👍
Nice one Hambini - good balance between everyday practical considerations and the engineering / aerodynamics side of things 👍
Great stuff.. Only thing missing is some recommendations at a couple price points - particularly some of the recent Chinese brands.
Hambini, you clearly know what you are talking about. I like to inform myself before I buy. Watching your video has not guided me towards buying a wheelset. On the contrary, all of the factors to consider don't make it easier, but if anything harder to buy a wheelset. At best it clearly steers me away from some wheels...
Any suggestions how to condense all of the info in a buying decision? ;-)
Great points ! Have you ever run across any wheels from "Superteam"?
I have two sets of tubeless ready Superteam wheels that have treated me very well;
a 45mm set I put 32c gravelking SS tires on for a lot of tarmac and light gravel - and 38mm (with a 24mm internal width) for 40c medium knobby tires for more heavy gravel rides.
If you added the cost of both sets I have spent less than $1,200 US and they came with a 3
year warranty.
Enjoyed this format - straight up facts. No nonsense. Excellent.
rather very helpfull for a non tech guy like me - THANKS and keep them coming 🤟
I would love some examples of well build wheels with good value for money in each category. I mean, from budget to high-end recommendations. Said that I have learned a lot in this video. Very good indeed.
One of your best videos yet! Thank you.
2 thoughts, it seems that making a « sensible very good wheel» is not complicated from the technical aspect ( not talking about manufacturing and QC) - so the r&d cost should be pretty limited, so why wheels are still fairly expensive for what they are ( even HYPER). Second is what about developing your own wheel and component, the product line could be called NBS= no b…s,
I think there is a place for very good product that just need to work and do the job, and there is a place for shiny object ( Porsche vs Ferrari type of thing)
Well made video
the bladed spokes, cx rays are heavier but have smaller frontal area.. incase you were wondering
Clever, clever stuff. Love the engineering explanation. Not sure I’m any the wiser as to which actual wheel/tyre I would buy next though.
Farsports Ventoux, Winspace Hyper, Elitewheels Drive
Well all joking aside, more training time is a lot cheaper ;-)
Great. Now I just need you to tell me which are the best bang for my buck wheels. 😂 I race 70-100 mile events with 5k-10,000’ of climbing and my bike is decked out with 105.
Watçh Hambinis detailed video on rim depth. He goes into nice detail about wind flow, manufacturer shortcomings, and which manufacturers actually do proper aero design.
At 02:50 Hambini says the main reason for disc brakes is marketing rather than engineering. With carbon rims, I consider disc brakes essential because carbon can't dissipate heat from rim caliper brakes, as well as metal rims can. Braking strips on carbon rims are a kludge.
I think a carbon rim with the track like farsports is very good
@@Hambini Perhaps, for light to moderate braking. But not for heavy sustained braking. In this test, 8 of the 10 rims tested overheated and failed catastrophically.
ruclips.net/video/OlZvFPdLulI/видео.html
One finds plenty of cases where this happens in the real world, causing the wheel to explode and put the rider in the hospital, like this:
ruclips.net/video/W0iMHkYpWFo/видео.html
Disc brakes eliminate this risk. Knowing my wheel won't explode under sustained heavy braking is worth a marginal cost in weight & aero drag.
So glad to hear 'The pen is working!' Keep up the good work! (and good luck with your hairdresser!)
Know why this video rocks? No "sponsored by" nonsense. Also, the PEN IS WORKING.
awesome video, I love to see the information presented by you and not some paid reviewer nice work
Great video. As a bike shop owner who stocks the goods. I love breakdowns of anything I stock or potentially stock. Wheels and groupsets🔥🔥🔥
More you know the better, right? Better quality products you have, less people complain or ask for repair/warranty service.
I wish bike shop owners would sell clients the correct gearing for their bikes!!! I forever see ppl turn up here with enough gears to climb a 3% hill!!! Being a Guide on Mallorca.. I get sick of seeing no0bs on superbikes with any ole shit gearing flung on!! When I explain to them the reality..they obviously feel dumb!! I have mates who are top top cyclists who live in Alps who are known to use 11/42 cassettes etc! For my guiding bike I use a GRX set up!! 48/31 with a 11/36.. U can call me a girl etc etc.. whilst I'm passing you on any climb...infact, noone except the pro's pass me here....I'd love a bike shop owner to tell a buyer, hey.. just buy a shimano 105 crank, then buy a set of absolute black 46/30oval chainrings (which will end up lighter than the latest dura ace chit... stick a 11/32 0r 11/34 on the rear and off you go and climb anything!!) or even, like me, just stick a cheap GRX 48/31 chainset on with a 11/36 and again... be comfortable climbing anything...and still keep up with almost all on flat!!! For me... that be a good bike shop - peace
PS - had a client turn up this morning with a brand spanking new F12 he bought at a certain well known bicycle shop in the UK...they knew the bike was destined to be kept and ridden on mallorca.. but he had a 52/36 ultegra chainset with a 11/28 cassette..now, my grandad on his Raleigh Chopper can go up the climbs here than this twit...infact, if a Palma traffic warden had wandered up Sa Creu then he would've been issued a Parking fine!!! PPS - the twit in question was 58 years old!!! Maybe a ribble e-bike would've been more astute!! and 1/4 the cost!!
useful information and learning opportunities per minute of video = Hambini FTW, absolute legend, full stop.
Use a D-fender, mudguard like cover to go over the top half of the front wheel, as a fairing to cut through wind and use the head wind to your advantage.
Excellent technical information shared there Hambini. Keep this kind of presentation going please.
Hambini totally rocks!
yes yes yes!!!!!! this is what i want 👍 top 10 race, top 10 day to day would be good too. thanks mate!!!!
Great video! Thanks so much! Looking forward for more of this kind of background info 👍🏼🙏🏼 btw, I have a math background and I‘m a triathlete 😁 so maybe a special audience 🤔 currently looking for a new wheelset 😅
TL:DW; Just buy the Winspace HYPERs? 🤔 Haha, but being serious, big love to Hambini for spreading knowledge and letting people make more informed purchasing decisions before parting with their hard-earned cash!
I'd love to see more of those educational videos. This was super useful and interesting for me. I'm studying aviation engineering, nice to see stuff that we learned there applied in bicycle components.
many thanks Hambini. Very helpful,, indeed. 👍
Outstanding. Again, you cut through the b.s. The only negative thoughts were there was no princess table cloth and hairdresser ending. Maturity of a 5+ year old maybe, as you offer a safety moment... street furniture and head impacts
Wish I saw when I bought my set !
Easy rule of thumb, conti 23mm on the front and you can’t go far wrong. I’m not sure if my swissside 62mm rim brake wheels have a late bulge, they’re 27mm about 3/4 the way to the trailing edge which is semi blunt, they do seem fast and stable, and the other rim depth did well in your aero testing (also hidden brass nipples and have had no need in two years to true them)
100’s of people had a collective melt down when Hambini touched the brake disc with his finger
All or most of this applies to the riders that are more in the upper category/level but for average joe you would not experience or reach the load/forces/speeds that often. But great video!
Really knowledgeable info. Explained logically & empirically. Big yer self up young man.
Excellent video, thank you. I really enjoy and appreciate your engineering 'deep-dive' videos. Educating us in the real things we should be looking at, not just blithely following the marketing bs. Please continue stuff like this, and keep calling out the industry bollocks! Cheers mate 👍
Excellent vid! This may have been asked elsewhere but it would be very interesting to hear your thoughts on MadFiber wheels (specifically the tubular ones). The wheel industry has moved on since they were manufactured but those wheels seemed to tick alot of boxes.
Your reaming has turned fairly subtle. I guess you're turning 6 soon.