It’s a good idea to cover all the overlapping bare metal with the adhesive so it overlaps the paint 1/2”. Lay masking tape and brush over then pull the tape and screw in place. Use enough adhesive to Mack sure it squeezes out all along the seem, inside and out. No place for rust to start. Saludos from Mexico
Hi John, another great video! I wonder if you would ever use a flanging too to go around the edges before the glue to make a level surface vs filling above the panel so to speak? Love the fast motion segments where we can see what you’re doing but get to fly by, the music you put in these sections is well done too!
Yes, using a flanging tool can make it so less filler is needed after, although it may just be the cheap one I have, but I’ve found it ends up stretching and causing some warpage in the panel if I try to do too big of an area that way.
That’s very interesting! I shared this video with 8 of my gear head friends and we discussed it this evening, to a man they were pretty impressed with the adhesive method vs trimming & butt welding. Very interesting to talk to a pro!
Love the video, need too ask stupid question, these rubber things that you remove to put the oil in,what is the idea off them,I presume you put them back on once you have put oil in!,
I have always found spraying inside of panels with oil coats everything, and soaks down into pinchwelds where sheet metal is layered, in this case coating new metal, not existing rust
@@FrugalPandaTravels I deliver all used oil to official recycling anyway. Have heard that used oil might actually cause corrosion to some extent, so thats why would rather use fresh, the cost is insignificant.
many have told me even with filler over any of the panel bond it will either ghost through the paint or there will end up being lots of small bubbles that come up through. i have some holes on a roof to fill before paint and i was hoping to be able to do this instead of welding them closed due to where they are as you said behind bracing
@@Johnnymidnight someone already put some of this up there and sanded it then primed over it now there are some tiny bubbles. I've read that can happen. Do u think if I use some filler over it and then epoxy will it prevent that from coming back? It's a small spot but I would have to grind out the whole repair to eliminate it
@@th3drizzl378 sounds like the old filler should probably be taken out and started over, if it’s bubbling you should try to get right to where it’s coming from
Nice video and much appreciated! Interesting that u used screws and then rivets, why not just use the rivets with adhesive on them and eliminate using screws?
@@Johnnymidnight Thanks, for the swift reply! I'm just trying to understand the need for self tapping screws, do they make a tighter fit than rivets???
Drill 1/8" holes 3 " apart along the edge of the outer panel ' allowing for squeeze out is the way I taught shops when2 part panel adhesives 1'st came out. I worked as a Sems rep for 4 years. Have you tried screwing the tip in on your rivet gun or is it just too far gone.
Good job. So, where it overlaps, how was it "low" and needing filler if overlapped? Wouldn't you need to tap it down first before filling back up with filler? Thanks for the video
Not necessarily, in this case the lower metal is on the vehicle itself, and it’s only the thickness of the 18 gauge sheet metal and the very little added by the adhesive once it’s compressed, so the filler can typically be blended out to where you have an invisible repair.
just a question, how strong does it hold together? Is it by any chance comparable with actual welding? looking for solution for my ej9's rusting rear arch panels xD
Great video, thanks for this! How do you know how much adhesive you're going to need? I'll be doing slip-on rockers on my Ram dual cab soon and I want to use the 3M glue (I would butcher it with a welder), but the stuff is so expensive I would hate to buy too much. It would be a lot worse to run out halfway through though. Would a 200ml cartridge be enough for one side?
Will Cleco's instead of screws clamp panel tight enough when gluing? I'm doing my 2008 GMC 5'-8" short box wheel arches,, I've watched your butt welding wheel arch install video, but not sure I can handle the welding, will gluing work for my application? My wheel arch repair seam location will be the same as your black GMC Sierra repair.
I don’t think clecos would clamp tight enough, the structural adhesive needs compression to work properly. The wheel arches could be glued, but when I’ve seen it done it always seems to “halo”, like the seam shows after a while, I think because of different expansion of the glued seam
@@Johnnymidnight Okay, thank you for the quick response, I might just have to step up my welding skill level and do it the right way, don't want any future problems after all that work. Gluing is not a cake walk either, plus 3M 8115 is expensive and might need a cartridge for each side, so might as well do it right I guess. Thanks again for your input!
The edge where the panel overlaps the body, did you grind that down too? I bought a replacement half panel for my GMC Yukon and I was wondering about this. I have a half of inch of overlap so not much to work with. My first time doing this. Thanks in advance
You like work do you? Or was it the safety issue with... rocker panels, that made you want to repair it good enough to... make the van a boat? Lol, just ribbing you... but seriuosly, lol. Overbuild, do you think? Idk, but all those screws make me cringe, then removing them, then dealing with every hole individually, I'm like wow. Then you fill the seam anyway, then you grind the seam anyway, I'm like, double wow, but, bc, I'm thinking.... Ok, you want to use 30 screws to be sure about the glue, I'd probably be trying some strong bar magnets, or a wedge pressed up to it, but, Idk, so, ok... why not use flat head screws, or hiltis, or rivets, then just grind down thead? That's why I said, 'then you do xxx anyway', bc why remove screw, fill, grind etc, all together. As I said, you could leave them in, since you are grinding anyway, it changes nothing, except your time and effort is saved. Or, ok, take them out, but then you are filling anyway, so why deal with them one at a time? Just remove screws fill as you did, the holes will get filled.... And I forgot my planned beginning, the glue! lol, if you are going to screw the whole perimeter on, and then fill the seam, why spend $100 on glue? lol And I'm sitting here the whole time thinking, 'and it's all being hidden under the molding anyway, the seam... my gosh Lol, I'm just baffled by this whole thing. I'd be like, I am going to be like, lol, cz I'm doing mine tomorrow.... Ima fill the existing panel leaving a thick pad, press on the new panel, tack it , maybe a screw on each end, or super glue, magnets, 5 min epoxy, ... then thin coat of fill the entire thing, sand, paint, done, 2 hrs tops Aluminum reinforced filler. Structurally sound and sandable in 25 mins. Seals rust, cz aluminum does not, obviously... it's much tougher sanding, but that means safer grinding, put a flap disc on your grinder, you can carve it like hard clay with a buck knife Peace
Structural adhesive requires compression to bond properly, that’s why I use screws. Magnets wouldn’t hold it tight enough. Leaving screws or rivets in place will cause rust issues much sooner. Using that crappy aluminum filler definitely doesn’t make it “structurally sound “. I need to warranty my work, so not interested in cutting corners. “LOL”
@@Johnnymidnight Lol, beer tap, alright, knock yourself out.... before I do it .... honestly, I didn't even see the channel name. I don't think I could have knowingly questioned a guy named Johnny Midnight, lol. Sounds like a movie... peace *who am I kidding, I'd question the Pope on Church policy
It’s a good idea to cover all the overlapping bare metal with the adhesive so it overlaps the paint 1/2”. Lay masking tape and brush over then pull the tape and screw in place. Use enough adhesive to Mack sure it squeezes out all along the seem, inside and out. No place for rust to start.
Saludos from Mexico
Sweet, nice piece of relatively cheap DIY-able work to extend the life of an older car! Cool video.
Thanks!
Really nice I think I can do my own cab corners now❤😊
This is fantastic! I wanna replace my rusty rocker panels and this lets me know I can do it without welding!
I dig your creeper. I got one just like it. , but mine came from a 71 Chevelle. Thanks for the video.
Haha, yep, with the amount of fenders and bedsides I change there’s never a shortage of cardboard around here 😁
Saludos from Mexico
In Mexico we call that a Mexican Creeper. JaJaJa
You a superb job on the van. I have always like epoxy glue for many jobs and this worked great for glueing those panels on. Great job.
I will be using adhesive for rocker panels and some spot welding. My skills don't go too much farther with thin metal.
It works well, just remember compression is important for a proper bond👍🏼
Very helpful I never used the glue before. I always panel spot them but I’m gonna try that next time. Great job thank you.!!
Glad it was helpful!
Lots of good tips and tricks. Thanks for the great video.
I'll buy you an air powered riveter 😂😂 watching from Great Britain well done Boss a Great job and well documented
I don’t use a riveter often, although I have replaced mine since this debacle 😁😁
Awesome work by far .... It's hard to find good body guys in the states.
Hi John, another great video! I wonder if you would ever use a flanging too to go around the edges before the glue to make a level surface vs filling above the panel so to speak? Love the fast motion segments where we can see what you’re doing but get to fly by, the music you put in these sections is well done too!
Yes, using a flanging tool can make it so less filler is needed after, although it may just be the cheap one I have, but I’ve found it ends up stretching and causing some warpage in the panel if I try to do too big of an area that way.
That’s very interesting! I shared this video with 8 of my gear head friends and we discussed it this evening, to a man they were pretty impressed with the adhesive method vs trimming & butt welding. Very interesting to talk to a pro!
Pro might be a bit of a stretch, but thank you 🙏🏼, I always hope the videos help someone out 👍🏼👍🏼
Love the video, need too ask stupid question, these rubber things that you remove to put the oil in,what is the idea off them,I presume you put them back on once you have put oil in!,
Looks like a gravy job with biscuit wheels to me
Thanks for sharing a great video
Thank you Sir, excellent video. 👍
Thanks, glad you found it helpful 👍🏼
Nice job!
Thank you 👊🏼
As a helpful application, you might try the Eastwood Rust Encapsulator rather than the used motor oil.
I have always found spraying inside of panels with oil coats everything, and soaks down into pinchwelds where sheet metal is layered, in this case coating new metal, not existing rust
Why used oil( that contains sulphur), why not fresh motor oil(if any)?
@@joeordinary209 Recycling
@@FrugalPandaTravels I deliver all used oil to official recycling anyway. Have heard that used oil might actually cause corrosion to some extent, so thats why would rather use fresh, the cost is insignificant.
many have told me even with filler over any of the panel bond it will either ghost through the paint or there will end up being lots of small bubbles that come up through. i have some holes on a roof to fill before paint and i was hoping to be able to do this instead of welding them closed due to where they are as you said behind bracing
I have used it for this same purpose, but I believe using a fibreglass filler like evercoat Everglass is a better option
@@Johnnymidnight someone already put some of this up there and sanded it then primed over it now there are some tiny bubbles. I've read that can happen. Do u think if I use some filler over it and then epoxy will it prevent that from coming back? It's a small spot but I would have to grind out the whole repair to eliminate it
@@th3drizzl378 sounds like the old filler should probably be taken out and started over, if it’s bubbling you should try to get right to where it’s coming from
@@Johnnymidnight they used the panel bond basically as a filler and painted over it that's the problem
Nice video and much appreciated! Interesting that u used screws and then rivets, why not just use the rivets with adhesive on them and eliminate using screws?
I usually use the self tappers for initially fitting the panel, then switch to rivets when it’s going on for good 👍🏼
@@Johnnymidnight Thanks, for the swift reply! I'm just trying to understand the need for self tapping screws, do they make a tighter fit than rivets???
I find it easier to get in place and get the glue all compressed with the screws before finishing with the rivets
Plus the rivet gun is not air operated . (Hard on the hands😅)
Nice to have big body molding to hide the seam
Yep, definitely doesn’t hurt 😉
Drill 1/8" holes 3 " apart along the edge of the outer panel ' allowing for squeeze out is the way I taught shops when2 part panel adhesives 1'st came out. I worked as a Sems rep for 4 years.
Have you tried screwing the tip in on your rivet gun or is it just too far gone.
I finally bought a new one 😉. I didn’t know until recently that SEM has structural adhesive 👍🏼👍🏼
Good job. So, where it overlaps, how was it "low" and needing filler if overlapped? Wouldn't you need to tap it down first before filling back up with filler? Thanks for the video
Not necessarily, in this case the lower metal is on the vehicle itself, and it’s only the thickness of the 18 gauge sheet metal and the very little added by the adhesive once it’s compressed, so the filler can typically be blended out to where you have an invisible repair.
Good tutorial
just a question, how strong does it hold together? Is it by any chance comparable with actual welding? looking for solution for my ej9's rusting rear arch panels xD
When done properly, it is supposed to be as strong as welding 👍🏼👍🏼
Great video, thanks for this! How do you know how much adhesive you're going to need? I'll be doing slip-on rockers on my Ram dual cab soon and I want to use the 3M glue (I would butcher it with a welder), but the stuff is so expensive I would hate to buy too much. It would be a lot worse to run out halfway through though. Would a 200ml cartridge be enough for one side?
I’d definitely get one for each side to be safe, it is unfortunately very expensive, but like you said, if you run out part way, you’re pretty hooped
Will Cleco's instead of screws clamp panel tight enough when gluing? I'm doing my 2008 GMC 5'-8" short box wheel arches,, I've watched your butt welding wheel arch install video, but not sure I can handle the welding, will gluing work for my application? My wheel arch repair seam location will be the same as your black GMC Sierra repair.
I don’t think clecos would clamp tight enough, the structural adhesive needs compression to work properly. The wheel arches could be glued, but when I’ve seen it done it always seems to “halo”, like the seam shows after a while, I think because of different expansion of the glued seam
@@Johnnymidnight Okay, thank you for the quick response, I might just have to step up my welding skill level and do it the right way, don't want any future problems after all that work. Gluing is not a cake walk either, plus 3M 8115 is expensive and might need a cartridge for each side, so might as well do it right I guess. Thanks again for your input!
If you don't have a riveter, can you just leave the screws in place and put body filler over those too?
I’m sure it would work ok, but I think having the screw sticking through the back would give moisture a place to sneak in
Do you have good long term result when you use glue like this
As long as it’s prepped correctly, yes, although I have seen it rust at the glue from exposed metal being left
Hey, that was very informative, I would like to know what kind of sandpaper you used and where you purchased it.
The edge where the panel overlaps the body, did you grind that down too? I bought a replacement half panel for my GMC Yukon and I was wondering about this. I have a half of inch of overlap so not much to work with. My first time doing this. Thanks in advance
Yes, you need to grind the surfaces that the glue is adhering to. It gives the glue something to “bite” into 👍🏼
I am wondering if you need to remove the black paint from the panel or just prime and paint it?
yeah, you need a decent riveter Bro! Throw it away! The jaws are worn.
I did finally buy a new one 😂
How much would this repair normally cost
This was a while ago now, I would have to look up the cost of the panel, but I think probably around the 1500 range
Fantastic, interesting stuff
Doesn't that effect the integrity of the body.
If used correctly, structural adhesive is supposed to be as strong as welding. It’s used in the production of a lot of modern vehicles
How to glue on a repair panel-- along with welding and riveting.
Cleco screws,or magnets, to hold
No on the magnets, structural adhesive requires compression to work correctly
I liked it!
Thanks!
You bet
That was one fine job!
For how Long IT will hold?
It should last the life of the vehicle.
Stainless steel rivets???
Yes, I always use stainless rivets👍🏼
I thought you were supposed to put the glue on both surfaces.
Sure looks like welding to me
You like work do you? Or was it the safety issue with... rocker panels, that made you want to repair it good enough to... make the van a boat? Lol, just ribbing you... but seriuosly, lol. Overbuild, do you think? Idk, but all those screws make me cringe, then removing them, then dealing with every hole individually, I'm like wow. Then you fill the seam anyway, then you grind the seam anyway, I'm like, double wow, but, bc, I'm thinking.... Ok, you want to use 30 screws to be sure about the glue, I'd probably be trying some strong bar magnets, or a wedge pressed up to it, but, Idk, so, ok... why not use flat head screws, or hiltis, or rivets, then just grind down thead? That's why I said, 'then you do xxx anyway', bc why remove screw, fill, grind etc, all together. As I said, you could leave them in, since you are grinding anyway, it changes nothing, except your time and effort is saved. Or, ok, take them out, but then you are filling anyway, so why deal with them one at a time? Just remove screws fill as you did, the holes will get filled.... And I forgot my planned beginning, the glue! lol, if you are going to screw the whole perimeter on, and then fill the seam, why spend $100 on glue? lol
And I'm sitting here the whole time thinking, 'and it's all being hidden under the molding anyway, the seam... my gosh
Lol, I'm just baffled by this whole thing. I'd be like, I am going to be like, lol, cz I'm doing mine tomorrow.... Ima fill the existing panel leaving a thick pad, press on the new panel, tack it , maybe a screw on each end, or super glue, magnets, 5 min epoxy, ... then thin coat of fill the entire thing, sand, paint, done, 2 hrs tops
Aluminum reinforced filler. Structurally sound and sandable in 25 mins. Seals rust, cz aluminum does not, obviously... it's much tougher sanding, but that means safer grinding, put a flap disc on your grinder, you can carve it like hard clay with a buck knife
Peace
Structural adhesive requires compression to bond properly, that’s why I use screws. Magnets wouldn’t hold it tight enough. Leaving screws or rivets in place will cause rust issues much sooner. Using that crappy aluminum filler definitely doesn’t make it “structurally sound “. I need to warranty my work, so not interested in cutting corners. “LOL”
@@Johnnymidnight Lol, beer tap, alright, knock yourself out.... before I do it .... honestly, I didn't even see the channel name. I don't think I could have knowingly questioned a guy named Johnny Midnight, lol. Sounds like a movie... peace
*who am I kidding, I'd question the Pope on Church policy
You are supposed to Glue BOTH SIDES to cover any bare metal. and never use rivets, remove All glue residue before using fillers or it will bubble!
Clearly you don't have much experience with Panel Bond.