*If you are interested in doing this yourself* I suggest not using this type of seal unless you clean *very* thoroughly, remove any trace of rust and spray within a dry environment. If the sealer is sprayed on a contaminated surface or in a humid environment it will seal in moisture along with any existing rust left on the metal and can sometimes corrode even faster without you noticing. The safer way to go is wax and oil based undercoating for DIY unless you have perfect uncontaminated metal preferably in air with low humidity.
@@TGHCUSTOMS Sorry I should clarify, if this method is done correctly as stated in your comment it is definitely a viable option and preferable for people who don't want to worry about redoing the coating. I was more talking about people doing it at home by themselves, after reading over my original comment and taking yours into consideration I have updated my comment.
I wanted to see the process. What did you use to remove the rust? A grinder? A sandblaster? What did you use to coat it with? Did you remove parts to get into the 'nooks and crannies'? All the interesting things were left out...
I'll get you a more detailed video next time . It's hard to navigate RUclips and what viewers find interesting. Thought that part might be mind numbing hence why I left it out.
Man I wouldn't even try to underseal something like that. Just locking in the rust. When a car gets like that there's one thing you can do. I'd have sprayed raw linseed oil under it on a hot summers day and let it sit for a few days. Or Dinitrol ML but raw linseed oil is just as good or better, and cheaper. Then I'd have considered some oil or bitumen based undercoating once it had cured. Then you'd have something counteracting the rust underneath the seal layer. If it was my personal car I would just use linseed oil, every summer apply a new spray layer.
Underseal is meant to prevent rust, but it's a very bad idea to put over rust. It wont stop the rust, in fact it will likely accelerate it, if any moisture finds it's way underneath. Should instead use a rust converter, then either spray a film of used engine oil or Lanoguard.
Neutrarust 661 is a great product for converting rust. Same process remove the rust sand back as best as possible the paint over with neutrarust. Its used on oil rigs and backed by the MOD. give it a go.
I believe that if you underseal a car in this manner, unless you can cover it 100%, it will increase the rate of corrosion on these uncovered areas. It certainly looks better though
Nothing wrong with the underside there, all surface rust which will appear on new cars after a few months here in the damp UK climate. Had my LR Freelander 2 done at a rust centre a year ago, it all helps but a bit like painting the Forth road bridge - the job is never over 😂
Complete bollocks this. You have to fix the rust, just not paint over it with a bucket of shite. On a car like this shopping trolley though, its not worth the effort.
@thepub245 I think you should have noticed the rust was removed prior to undersealing it. Also you will never eradicate the rust 💯. We can only delay the process
I am fixing surface rust underneath my car at the minute. It is, in fairness not as far gone as this Fiesta is. My process involves rubbing away the loose material, degreasing, thoroughly rinsing and drying, before applying a top notch rust converter, I use Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, to convert any remaining rust. Once that is dried and cured, it gets a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, then a fresh coat of paint. Finally, the fresh paint, when dry, is given a covering of Dynax UC wax. My car is beginning to look better than new underneath. The problem is the poor state of finishing underneath cars by the manufacturers. They seem to use paper thin, cheap, watered down coatings for the underneath of cars at the factory.
I’m doing the same on my car (ford mondeo) wire brushed, jenolite rust converter spray and then will be jenolite wax oil. Very jealous of the ramp I’m doing it on a driveway 😂
*If you are interested in doing this yourself* I suggest not using this type of seal unless you clean *very* thoroughly, remove any trace of rust and spray within a dry environment. If the sealer is sprayed on a contaminated surface or in a humid environment it will seal in moisture along with any existing rust left on the metal and can sometimes corrode even faster without you noticing. The safer way to go is wax and oil based undercoating for DIY unless you have perfect uncontaminated metal preferably in air with low humidity.
How is it sealing in moisture? It was done during hot summers day. In a dry environment and cleaned and dried! Before sealing...
@@TGHCUSTOMS Sorry I should clarify, if this method is done correctly as stated in your comment it is definitely a viable option and preferable for people who don't want to worry about redoing the coating. I was more talking about people doing it at home by themselves, after reading over my original comment and taking yours into consideration I have updated my comment.
I wanted to see the process. What did you use to remove the rust? A grinder? A sandblaster? What did you use to coat it with? Did you remove parts to get into the 'nooks and crannies'? All the interesting things were left out...
I'll get you a more detailed video next time . It's hard to navigate RUclips and what viewers find interesting. Thought that part might be mind numbing hence why I left it out.
Man I wouldn't even try to underseal something like that. Just locking in the rust.
When a car gets like that there's one thing you can do. I'd have sprayed raw linseed oil under it on a hot summers day and let it sit for a few days. Or Dinitrol ML but raw linseed oil is just as good or better, and cheaper.
Then I'd have considered some oil or bitumen based undercoating once it had cured. Then you'd have something counteracting the rust underneath the seal layer. If it was my personal car I would just use linseed oil, every summer apply a new spray layer.
Underseal is meant to prevent rust, but it's a very bad idea to put over rust.
It wont stop the rust, in fact it will likely accelerate it, if any moisture finds it's way underneath.
Should instead use a rust converter, then either spray a film of used engine oil or Lanoguard.
@@matthewjenkins1161 it wasn't put over the rust. Rust was sanded down. Cleaned and then sealed
@@TGHCUSTOMS We both know that isn't true or even possible, short of stripping the vehicle to pieces.
Neutrarust 661 is a great product for converting rust. Same process remove the rust sand back as best as possible the paint over with neutrarust. Its used on oil rigs and backed by the MOD. give it a go.
@smiggy-ff9sl thanks for your valuable comment
I believe that if you underseal a car in this manner, unless you can cover it 100%, it will increase the rate of corrosion on these uncovered areas.
It certainly looks better though
It's a ecoboost so it'll be lucky to be still running in 2years
@@peterbousfield1547 😆 🤣 😂 I actually was thinking that exact thing whilst working on it 😂
Bit too late for that pal 😂😂😂
It's never too late... well lol
It's never too late... it's only too late if you don't give it a try or give up before trying.
Nothing wrong with the underside there, all surface rust which will appear on new cars after a few months here in the damp UK climate. Had my LR Freelander 2 done at a rust centre a year ago, it all helps but a bit like painting the Forth road bridge - the job is never over 😂
@@lascm5237 exactly what I have been trying to say
Better off with oil....
🚗👍👍👍
@stephenwalsh8184 thanks for your feedback. Much appreciated 👏
Good work pj
Looks good
Should help the car from going to the scrap heap
Complete bollocks this. You have to fix the rust, just not paint over it with a bucket of shite. On a car like this shopping trolley though, its not worth the effort.
@thepub245 I think you should have noticed the rust was removed prior to undersealing it. Also you will never eradicate the rust 💯. We can only delay the process
I am fixing surface rust underneath my car at the minute. It is, in fairness not as far gone as this Fiesta is. My process involves rubbing away the loose material, degreasing, thoroughly rinsing and drying, before applying a top notch rust converter, I use Bilt Hamber hydrate 80, to convert any remaining rust. Once that is dried and cured, it gets a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol, then a fresh coat of paint. Finally, the fresh paint, when dry, is given a covering of Dynax UC wax. My car is beginning to look better than new underneath. The problem is the poor state of finishing underneath cars by the manufacturers. They seem to use paper thin, cheap, watered down coatings for the underneath of cars at the factory.
I’m doing the same on my car (ford mondeo) wire brushed, jenolite rust converter spray and then will be jenolite wax oil. Very jealous of the ramp I’m doing it on a driveway 😂
@@michaelrobinson6146 it will be worth it. Get as much of the rust off as possible. Preparation is the key
Rubbish,,all you do is seal in the rust
So what else are you supposed to do?
@@TGHCUSTOMSscrap it.
@@pureblood1978x that's the easy option. We don't do easy.