⬇️Scotty’s Top DIY Tools: 1. Bluetooth Scan Tool: amzn.to/2nfvmaD 2. Cheap Scan Tool: amzn.to/2D8Tvae 3. Professional Socket Set: amzn.to/2Bzmccg 4. Wrench Set: amzn.to/2kmBaOU 5. No Charging Required Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2CthnUU 6. Battery Pack Car Jump Starter: amzn.to/2nrc6qR ⬇️Things used in this video: 1. Rust Protection Paint: amzn.to/2KsIKzk 2. Amazon Clear Coat Spray: amzn.to/2N7JLyQ 3. NuFinish Polish: amzn.to/2KrCOXC 4. Common Sense 5. 4k Camera: amzn.to/2HkjavH 6. Camera Microphone: amzn.to/2Evn167 7. Camera Tripod: amzn.to/2Jwog8S 8. My computer for editing / uploading: amzn.to/2uUZ3lo 9. Video editing software: amzn.to/2jv5Fhf 10. Thumbnail software: amzn.to/2k7tz6C 🛠Check out my Garage to see what I use every day and highly recommend: www.amazon.com/shop/scottykilmer ► Subscribe and hit the notification bell for all new videos: ruclips.net/user/scottykilmer Scotty on Social: Facebook ► facebook.com/scottymechanic/ Instagram ► instagram.com/scotty_the_mechanic/ Twitter ► twitter.com/Scottymechanic?lang=en
Here in Arizona (desert), no matter the coatings, even wrap, the sun will bake the coatings right off. Having said that... we don't have to worry about rust, lol.
Don't you remember Fluid Film from your teenage years back in the 40's? Best product available to "slow" corrosion way up north where they dump salt 8 months a year and fix potholes 1 week a year.
I use Rust Bullet on everything, I use it as a primer for bodywork. I drill holes in door jambs and spray it in the rockers and quarter panels. I put it on every part I replace on my vehicles then spray paint it with color of choice. I’ve put it on complete engines before painting them and holds up better than regular engine paint.! Scotty knows what he’s talking about.
What a lame comment, Scotty might prefer Toyotas but he has nothing but good things to say about Hondas, change that 95 Acura Integra and replace it with a 90's Chrysler or something
LaVirtue I still think he shoulda use a bad car fir that comment, like i said before Scotty prob woulda said 95 Integra? Good car👍 he would not tell u to throw it away
My work truck was a 90s era Tacoma. The frame rusted right out from underneath it. My boss blamed me for driving in the rain with the window open. I told him the frame was rusted the day he gave me the keys. He didn't believe me. I told him about the rust problem with Toyota frames and he didn't believe me.
Hi Scotty, here in NH I spray or brush a special blend of oil and wax heated to a 100 degrees. Sticks like glue, penetrates rust and metal to stop rust by soaking it with oil then sealing it with wax. Stays put for at least two years even around wheel wells. Cover your brakes before spraying. Also my Bronco has urethane bushing on everything. I try not to spray rubber anything. In fact the truck came from San Antonio...
Something we do a lot here in New England is we get one end of the car up on ramps in the fall and rinse it out really well. Let it dry overnight and then spray everything down with a can of Fluid Film to coat everything for the winter. If there's any rust around you just wire brush it and then then use some rust converter on it first. But, the few people that bother with this seem to have cars that hold up really well over time. Folks used to get their cars undercoated around here a lot. But, over the last twenty years or so it's sort of fallen out of favor.
i use fluid film and believe it's the same result. have a 5-gallon pail that I use on pretty much everything, from assembling parts to my tools as well
Those are some good pointers Scotty, but up here in New York, the majority of cars rust out because people drive them on the heavily salted roads in the winter time and they fail to wash them off frequently enough or well enough. (Underbody being most important).
@@0xsergyIn Europe the recycled water goes through reverse osmosis taking all the salt and other impurities out. Don't know what it is like State side.
I'm a cheap bastard and like what my forefathers used to prevent rust. Boiled Linseed Oil works a treat, it's cheap and effective. It works just great on my bare metal tools too. It sticks like shite to a blanket but way less offensive. Did I mention that it is cheap too? Dilute with mineral Turps 50/50 or what suits you. Nickel compound (anti seize) is terrific for specific purpose too. The stuff wont wash off. Trouble is if you come in contact with it, it wont wash off you either. Without some petrol or such 🙂 Love your videos Scotty.
Here in Massachusetts, many of us do what the Canadians have been doing for decades. We use a product called Fluid Film. Basically just bar and chain oil sprayed through an atomizing spray gun. The underside of your car will remain pristine.
great video and advice-here in Stamford ct. they put stuff down on the road that is so caustic that the snow plow trucks are being eaten away -local mechanics are overloaded replacing brake and fuel lines not to mention frame and body damage.
I work beachside in central FL, I wash my car once a week to get off all the salt the collects on the car off of it. Noticed since I’ve gotten the car the small rock chips are now turning into rust 😢 should have watched this earlier
Thanks, Scotty!! I just booted my mechanic out for scamming me. Now i don’t alllow anyone to touch my car except for an oil change. I should have found you on utube 20 years ago!! Stay well.. 👏👏
You went to a really bad school or didn't pay attention in class. His explanation for oxidation was really supperficial and made for people who never took chemistry.
Rust can develop underneath the coating under the car. Just one unnoticed stone chip and the process will start. But you will not see it because the rust will be covered up.
@@ChronicAndIronicthere’s a pretty extensive class on it nowadays. I was offered it while we were in the shipyards but passed on it because it seemed like a way for contractors to pitch sales for different types of paints that were expensive AF, but the introductory session had some really good information in it.
A wax will have a better shine , but will not last as long as a sealant . There is a cost factor when considering the best method of paint protect and that would be ceramic coating.
This video was really nice to see. I live in Michigan and I've had issues with rust so I've asked my family about how to prevent it and they just say you can't. And I found this a bit hard to believe. But my family in general takes good care of their cars so I believed it. I'm glad to hear that they're wrong
Rust starts on inside out, salt mud etc stays inside body panels when not washed properly. I've purchased many vehicle's that people dont keep drain holes open and clean. That starts rust. Keep drain holes clean . Where dirt and debris get stuck that where your problems begin.
ClusterHeadSurvivor My dad krown rust proofs his car, Zero rust. Not even a rusty bolt. We live in the rust belt too. Only downside is your engine bay looks absolutely terrible after a bit.
Krown or another oil spray like Rust Check or Ziebart is the best way to prevent rust in northern climates. Using Scotty's advice, the car would still rust from the rockers, rear fenders, strut towers etc if the car was a northern vehicle, definitely incomplete advice for not mentioning oil spray rust proofing.
An incredibly useful video!! People take factory undercarriage protection for granted and just ignore the fact you should protect the underside after some years. I guess the reason is we don't look at it every day!! The only problem is having a jack to lift the car and do the job right
Nothing beats the oil rustproofing for the frames and panel interiors. Fluid film is probably good too, but 100K miles and no rust. Do it every two years. Its messy but it works.
Would spraying WD40 on the frame work? Also, when you guys do this, do you just coat the entire underneath, frame, transmission and everything? Or are there some things/places you should avoid?
You sir,are a powerhouse encyclopedia of knowledge..I so enjoy your videos! God bless you Scotty for all the good that you do for car owners everywhere!🙏😇
My 98 Chevy Silverado has sat outside since new and not a single spec of rust anywhere. Here’s what I do: twice a year I spray Aero Kroil or some other penetrating oil all over the underside. The frame rails, a arms, rocker panels, inner wheel wells, leaf springs and all the fuel and brake lines door edges and hinges, inside the bumpers. I use the entire can, sometimes two. It has worked for me.
Scotty...as a bodyman/painter I can tell you that clearcoat is a "cross linked polymer" ...you can not "nourish" clear coat with a wax. The real purpose of wax is to be an extra "sacrificial layer" that can be replaced easily and cheaply...and it is slippery so that dirt does not gain a foothold in the tiny scratches caused by grit as you drive, and from washing and wiping the grit at the car wash. You are exactly right about exposed metal corrosion , but DIRT is another enemy because DIRT is like a sponge that holds moisture against the surfaces of your vehicle...especially inside the doors and wheel wells . Look at northern Dodge , Ford (steel bodied) and Chevy trucks and what do you always see? Rusted out wheel openings over the rear wheels. Why is that? It's because the inner structure is like a shelf where DIRT gets to sit unless you get in there and consistently wash it out...some people even drill drain holes in the upper wheel well lip to make drain holes so they can wash it out easier.
Thank you for this analysis... If I understand you correctly, the old trick about oil spraying your car and then driving down a dirt road, so the would sticks and form an additional layer of protection is actually counter-productive?
@@VLK-73 Used oil has some acidic content, but what will happen is it will attract dirt until you go through puddles and then the oil is floated off by the water, but the wet dirt can remain. Just look at any puddle in a parking lot, what do you see on the surface? The multicoloured film of oil from someone's leaky motor. Some people oil the hood hinges on their trucks, then the oil attracts dirt, and then the hinges bind and the hood bends before the hinges will open up. I'm sure you've seen 70's Chevy trucks with bent hoods from seized hinges. Grease hinges...wash and let dry the underside of a vehicle and check the drain holes on doors, use a small tie wrap to make sure they are open because doors are designed to let water flow through .
Hey Scotty, I know a number of people who coat the underside of their vehicles with diesel in the winter to protect them from the brine which is sprayed on the road to melt snow. Does this actually work and will the diesel harm the paint or metal on the bottom of the vehicle?
I put linseed oil on all rusty stuff on the underside and since I started with that every spring and autumn when switching to and from winter wheels, rusting has stopped completely. Did do the paint stuff before but problem is it very easily starts to rust underneath the paint if you don't get it clean enough. No such problem with linseed oil, you can even apply it to damp rusty metal and the extremely small molecules of this particular oil will penetrate and stop the oxidation. Another benefit is that it dries in a week or so and while doing that expands 10-15% thus sealing small cracks and such. A cheap and great method of preserving your car if you have to live with salty winters!
Fluid Film. I apply it to most everything underneath that doesn’t move or get hot. Also I spray inside the drain holes of the door/trunk to prevent rust around the bottom. Redone every fall right before the snow hits.
Thank you! Very informative. I've done clearcoat on older cars with rust on them and it has worked really well so far for preserving the paint and patina finish on those spots. Thanks a lot for all the info!
When I was a young lad in WV we would occasionally paint our truck frame with used oil. Seemed to work well on a surface rusted frame as the rust would soak it up.
New oil is better (and cheap, you dont need much) used oil gets kinda acidic from all the contaminants in it, so it'll eat away at metal (but still better than no covering against the elements, sorta)
Met an old well driller that drove an Old Chevy pickup from the 60’s , the truck was completely rust free . When asked he said he always poured his old oil from oil changes down the doors and into the hood cracks etc . He let it drain overnight on cardboard then simply wiped the rockers etc .
Scotty has some of the best videos on RUclips. His pace is perfect, he's very clear and informative and he's not boring. Good topics covered also. Maybe it's the pot brownies I ate but I'm loving Scotty right now
@@yallgonemadd3786 A phosphoric acid metal prep that can be applied to fresh bare metal to prevent flash rusting, to rusty surfaces as a rust converter and to clean ferrous metals before powder coating to create a surface layer of inert iron phosphate that won't rust plus is semi-porous so promotes better adhesion since the hot powder coating is absorbed into it. The industrial powder coaters immerse the parts in tanks of phosphoric acid for set periods of time to obtain a thicker surface layer of iron phosphate for maximum adhesion.
I used to use old engine oil thinned down with petrol 50/50, put it in a plant sprayer and doused the underside of the car. Not good for rubber, but it stops the metal from rusting.
I work at the Ford, GM, Chrysler all auto manufactures in paint dept. You are correct about the Elpo/Phosphate dip. They dunk car bodies and when going through paint shop bodies are grounded and the paint robots also have High Voltage 90,000Kv that charges the paint and help to adhere to the body. More often than the plants admit the High Voltage systems has issues regularly. Most time they will disable the HV system to keep robots painting but they 5 years down the road it starts to wear out prematurely. So Clearcoat peels off or is thin and will begin to rust. Bottom edges of doors on the F150's is a hot spot for low paint film builds so they start to rust early. Almost all auto manufactures have their weak spots that are usually in same areas. I always drive F150 so I notice all mine on bottom edge inside of driver door is a spot to keep an eye. Since I've worked with every auto manufacturer applying, designing paint specs, repairing the paint robots, film build densities and so on, FORD has the most reliable paint process of all manufacturers!. Also if you get real lucky you'll have a vehicle that went through the paint booths and missed a little spot so they will send it through the second time to get painted again. In my experience those are the vehicles you want because they will not rust and the paint hold up forever because it's got twice as many layers. I look for indications of 2 runs through paint booth and buy those vehicles even if it not the color I want because it will last forever!. The next F150 I buy is going to be brand new right off the line and I am going to be in charge of sending my truck through the paint shop twice so paint job wil last forever! I worked on, loaded, maintained and inspected Tom Brady's truck for winning the super bowl and the truck was labeled as such through production so people knew not to make any mistakes or slack on that specific vehicle through the whole production process.
Greg Hannigan I wish manufacturers would offer vehicles that are double painted. That would be very nice. Do they think people want to drive rust buckets?
@@IanRLewis They are still good, I prefer Ford. All manufacturers have their weak spots. Ford's Clearcoat is more durable than the other manufacturers but all the plants miss spots. Double layered vehicle is a bonus.
I remember when I was growing up in the 70s and 80s, you'd see rust on cars all over the place. People would use Bondo to cover up the holes that rotted through the metal. Today, you see 20+ year old cars, and they still look like new.
Almost every car in Kmart's parking lot in the 80's had rust all over it. (Nebraska) my dad had 2 vehicles where the floor metal was rusted away... You could see the ground. The old stop sign trick
Your right buddy. I done my mitsubishi colt czt turbo last year. Took it for it's yearly MOT .the guy said it looks like a New car. In fact it 11 years old.
I agree with Dave Houston regarding the use of an oil based product over the paint on type. It gets into everything. Having said that though, it can be hard on the rubber seals around the doors and trunk. I also worry about the door speakers as well. I had an old Bonneville that was professionally sprayed yearly and the body was still in great shape when I finally got rid or it. Another thing to consider is that if you DIY spray you have to make sure that it doesn't get on the brakes or exhaust. That combined with the mess, I think it's better to pay the $120/year to have somebody else do it.
$125 won't get you in the front door of the spray shops in Canada. Not to mention a lot of these companies do a poor job and just hope the customer never goes under the car afterwards. Good odds of the typical owner not bothering to look afterwards. I've bought the stuff needed for Fluid Film application ($90can per USgal) as our new car has so many plastic panels under it there is no way I'd trust a shop to remove the panels then spray it. They will definitely take the short-cut and try with them on.
we shouldn't have to buy a car. It would be nice if people could meet their needs without buying a car. But GM and car profiteers made sure the public doesn't have that option
You're right. I shouldn't be able to get to work 30 miles away, instead of finding a crappy low paying job 2 miles away. We shouldn't have an economy either. And semi trucks? Useless. Send em all to the scrapper.
@@robertcollins7515 I “redid” a truck for a winter beater. 2-3 coats of primer + paint and is still starting to rust. Mainly from rocks chipping it and rust that was in cracks
I been using Fluid Film the last couple of years, & I live in the rust belt, also applied nu -finish this past fall also on windshield , an ounce of prevention is worth lbs.of rust.
Problem is if you paint that under the car and there is already rust there it’s difficult to see and if you paint over it , it will just seal in moisture and rust and do more harm that good . Spraying it with oil is the best thing to do
Thank you for the Nu Finish mention. I used to use it in the pre-clearcoat days. Been hesitant since then. I loved it, easy to apply and did a great job. I'll go back to using it.
Bondo may not be permanent, but if it gets you by on a car for the remaining time you own it before it goes to the junkyard then why not? No point in spending thousands on a car worth a couple hundred bucks when bondo will get you an inspection sticker no problem
Too bad I didn't see this and learn about the clear coat spray quick tip BEFORE the rust spread around my license plate on the tailgate of the 2011 Ford Explorer. My uncle said it was a bad batch of metal being used so rusting from inside out. Now my entire lower part of the gate is crumbly and it is a hazard to open/close. ONLY spot where rust is showing up on this MN car too! Thanks for the reminder of wash/wax seasonally. I think I can do that....
Hey Scotty! I picked up a 1999 Saturn SL2 for $800. Rides great and fluids are good. One issue I have is that there is a bit of rust in the rear passenger door sill (which I hear is common on the S-series. What would the steps be to correct this issue? And is it too late to start applying Rust Bullet? Thanks!
From Calgary CND, the salt on the roads up here is quickly rusting up my VW Golf. I got rust forming over the rear wheels! I noticed a lot of the chips that are starting to rust too. Ahh the car isn't even 10 years old.
I live in Ohio and rust is a serious problem here. Once a year I jack my truck up as high as I can get it, I wire brush, scotchbright, scrape and needle peen any loose paint and or rust. I wipe it all down then paint with rustoleum black. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure. I have to agree with Scotty on this one.
Alive n Well and Happy I would not blame you if you did for real. One of my friends did that to a 2nd generation Dodge that he rebuilt with Texas sheet metal. It looks pretty darn good truth be told.
Abe E we need to go to southern states or Mexico and get some high mile or blown drivetrain cars then bring them back home and put our engines and transmissions in them.
Super info on rust prevention. Btw Scotty, Toyota replaced the rusty frame on my 2005 Tacoma last spring. It took them two weeks and I got to enjoy a 2018 Tacoma for free.
he has decades of experience , and as car guy himself he most likely uses his free time to learn some of the new methods and all that stuff ,that's what passion is,he is a 60+ year old youtuber , i think he is not that bad with technology
@@007nadineL Keeping the underbody clean helps prevent rust. Water itself does not cause rust but water contains dissolved oxygen. If its just water, it should dry, but with dirt the drying process is slowed, gives rust a foothold. Products like Fluid-Film can protect against rust. F/F is made from lanolin (wood oil) and resists oxidation. Coating with used motor oil can help too, but probably should be cleaned and reapplied at least once a year.
Yeah I lived in Upstate ny and always washed off under my car with the wand at the car wash . I also raise the hood and rinse off inner fenders , under the hood and radiator . Automatic car washes wont do that .
@@007nadineL It rains often enough that the bottom of the car is often soaked anyway. Pick a rainy day and do a complete wash at home, no more wet than it already was.
Here in upstate NY the only way to slow down rust is to use an oil based rust proofer every year. Even then it will happen. Folds in body panels and trapped moisture will often rot the quarters or doors from the inside out. You might slow down the rust process with rust bullet or por15 but in the end the winter salt will just LOL at you. The only way to keep your car rust free is to not drive it in the winter.
I get fluid film coating on mine before each winter (or if not a full coat I at least spray the "trouble" spots where rust is starting). I wonder what works better... oiling it or painting it?
I have actually used both on 2 different cars. Both work really well when the person applying them knows what they're doing. I would argue that Fluid film is actually an "oil"in all reality. Despite people claiming you need a coating a year, I have found living in the Chicagoland area that I'm averaging 2-3 times a year. I will say Fluid film is easier to apply though but the downside to that is I have missed spots before from it's ease of use
In NE Ohio I use Fluid Film. The cars I have already have rust, but the Fluid Film coats and penetrates and doesn't wash off easily as it is wool oil lanolin based. I buy it by the gallon and spray or use cheap paint brushes to get it in everywhere.
In 1994 Toyota developed a high tech rustproof steel used exclusively on the Celica. It was shortly taken off the market and the patent was sealed in a vault.
ojars zvaigzne not really. People still want the latest and greatest, and offload perfectly good used Toyota’s on the used market so smart folks can buy cheaper and still get a good vehicle. Win win.
It was going so well... until the inevitable "recommended product" was held defiantly into view. I had to chuckle at the proclamation that "it's not a big job". Err what? Living in the UK and near the coast, I am familiar with rust on vehicles. I have experimented with the various "treatments" myself, including the famed POR15. Do not underestimate the preparation required for these; thoroughly cleaning the underside (a cursory spraying of the hose will not suffice), scraping off underseal/coating in the affected areas (a right messy job), cleaning with special chemicals (POR requires a cleaner and metal prep) and then finally applying the stuff. Even with diligent prep, after 6 months the results were mixed at best and nowhere near worth the time, effort and mess. The notion that you would just "spray [insert magic treatment here] on" without thorough preparation (i.e. making it a big messy job) and expecting it to produce desirable results is wishful thinking at an extreme level. I fear, thanks to these videos, people will get the wrong idea about these 'rust prevention' products. I implore people; DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH! Otherwise, the advice about a quick spray of clear coat after a scratch was neat!
I am good friends with a toyota tech and he said the reason why the frames rusted so quick and badly is due to poorly designed drainage holes. the drain holes would plug up...fill the frame with dirt/dust/salts and hold moisture causing the rust.
Imagine looking outside your window and you see your neighbor recording himself inside the trunk of his car lol keep up the good work Scotty love the videos man
I have used a whole gallon of black rustoleum paint on my ford f150 and went through a whole winter still looks great yes it had some rust but it wasn't too bad I do tend to knock off the loose stuff first and then paint and hope of the best I find that alot of people try an use that rubberized undercoating crap which I find to make it worse
When Texas is frozen in the winter, it's a miracle. When Michigan is NOT frozen and the roads are NOT full of salt that eats your fenders... that's a miracle that hasn't happen yet.
My goodness, First that sacrificial correlation with Chess and Then Justin Bieber bumping under your car, you are a Genius, Would give you an Extra like if I could.
George.Dubya.Kush, I think it's just lighting differences making him look darker, but I could be wrong. At any rate, JB would be funnier than an unknown Asian.
My hood is all primer and even after a year of only primer (I live in PA btw) There is ZERO rust on it. It's parked in my driveway outside. I don't drive it when there's salt on the roads though.
Best video I’ve seen about rust, I have over 20 years autobody experience, and I live in the north, salt mega every winter, great video and he’s 100% correct.
I’ve seen comments on dangers of getting the products on break pads and lines. As a non-car person, do you think this is a good idea for DIY’ers to try?
* Hey SCOTTY, ANOTHER FANTASTICALLY INFORMATIVE VIDEO ! I LIVE ''UP NORTH'' in NEW HAMPSHIRE, And AS SOON AS THE WEATHER ALLOWS ME TO JACK UP MY 2016 CHEVY 2500 DOUBLE CAB LONG BED PICK-UP I'm GOING TO APPLY SOME OF THAT STOP RUST PAINT. ! NOW , IF YOU COULD DO A SMALL SEGMENT ABOUT RUST REPAIR... I HAVE THE BEGINNING OF RUST ON MY 2005 CHEVY HHR WHEEL-WELL. ( ABOUT THE SIZE OF A DECK of CARDS.) I DIDN'T NOTICE IT DURING OUR SNOWY SEASON, BUT IT ''BUBBLED UP'' FROM UNDER THE PAINT AND BROKE THROUGH THE PAINT. I QUICKLY SPRAYED IT WITH LAYERS of CLEAR COAT that I KEEP FOR PROJECTS. BUT I'd LOVE TO FIX THAT UGLY SPOT ! ANY SUGGESTIONS? THANK YOU As ALWAYS, SGT. E. E. ROCK
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4. Common Sense
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Scotty Kilmer good job using common sense. =)
Where's the link to nr. 4? :/
Why do you write your title in spanish and talk in english ?
How do we max the frame then smartie pants thats what rusts out the fastest
Here in Arizona (desert), no matter the coatings, even wrap, the sun will bake the coatings right off. Having said that... we don't have to worry about rust, lol.
Don't you remember Fluid Film from your teenage years back in the 40's? Best product available to "slow" corrosion way up north where they dump salt 8 months a year and fix potholes 1 week a year.
I don’t….i was born 50 years later 😂
This last part about salt roads and pot holes is what my state SUFFERS with
Born 80 years late😭🙏
Today I opened my trunk and Scotty was in it
You must of rang that bell too many times!
Lol
I found him under my stairs yesterday 🤦
👏🏻😂😂
Ahh i wish
I use Rust Bullet on everything, I use it as a primer for bodywork. I drill holes in door jambs and spray it in the rockers and quarter panels. I put it on every part I replace on my vehicles then spray paint it with color of choice. I’ve put it on complete engines before painting them and holds up better than regular engine paint.! Scotty knows what he’s talking about.
Why is this not common knowledge!? Wtf I am 28 and now just understanding this❤Thank you Scotty Kilmer you are a beautiful soul
Up north, our vehicles rust from the inside out. Have to protect the metal from the inside out too..
I had one of those toyota tacoma trucks a 1999. They gave me 17,170.00 for it and I paid 7,500 for it! They just bought the whole thing back.
Scotty, I've been watching your videos for over a decade now and still find them useful & entertaining. Thank you for keeping them free to watch.
Fluid film works very well for preventing rust I live in PA and do my vehicles one a year with that and have no rust at all
One spray can @ $11.00 approx is enough to do one small/med vehicle. Originally developed for the U.S. Navy to keep ships from rusting away.
Woolwax, fluid film, cosmoline, corrosion free rust cure. All really good.
If you tied Scotty's hands behind his back; he wouldn't be able to speak!
You haven't seen scoty tap-dance
haha
Lmao
same with French people lol
wow you're so original, not like I've heard it 100000 times already!
Me: Scotty I have a question about my car.
Scotty: What kind of car
Me: Well it’s a 95 Acura Int-
Scotty: *Throw it away and buy a Grey 94 Celica*
What a lame comment, Scotty might prefer Toyotas but he has nothing but good things to say about Hondas, change that 95 Acura Integra and replace it with a 90's Chrysler or something
dawicked2k8 it was a pretty good comment in my opinion
LaVirtue I still think he shoulda use a bad car fir that comment, like i said before Scotty prob woulda said 95 Integra? Good car👍 he would not tell u to throw it away
the pre daimler chrysler v6 and v8 engines were very reliable and the transmissions very reliable too
dawicked2k8 what you need to realize is that it was just a joke, not meant to be taken seriously.
So legit, he even called out Toyota for making a mistake in the 90s Tacomas.
If the mistake was in the 90's, why did Toyota replace the second generation frames as well?
Anthony h. Yup a fact my uncle pretty much got a whole new frame for free on his tocoma
Tbh I thought Toyota just bought those trucks back since putting on a new frame would be expensive af.
My work truck was a 90s era Tacoma. The frame rusted right out from underneath it. My boss blamed me for driving in the rain with the window open. I told him the frame was rusted the day he gave me the keys. He didn't believe me. I told him about the rust problem with Toyota frames and he didn't believe me.
Yeah, just seen a 2nd gen Toyota at Taco Bell yesterday. Brand new shiny frame.
Hi Scotty, here in NH I spray or brush a special blend of oil and wax heated to a 100 degrees. Sticks like glue, penetrates rust and metal to stop rust by soaking it with oil then sealing it with wax. Stays put for at least two years even around wheel wells. Cover your brakes before spraying. Also my Bronco has urethane bushing on everything. I try not to spray rubber anything. In fact the truck came from San Antonio...
Are you aware of fluid film
Something we do a lot here in New England is we get one end of the car up on ramps in the fall and rinse it out really well. Let it dry overnight and then spray everything down with a can of Fluid Film to coat everything for the winter. If there's any rust around you just wire brush it and then then use some rust converter on it first. But, the few people that bother with this seem to have cars that hold up really well over time. Folks used to get their cars undercoated around here a lot. But, over the last twenty years or so it's sort of fallen out of favor.
Wool wax underneath and wheel arches is great stuff. One can does my car once a season for two years. $50. Totally worth it.
i use fluid film and believe it's the same result. have a 5-gallon pail that I use on pretty much everything, from assembling parts to my tools as well
@@markpasieka I think Fluid film is wool fat
I’ve used new vinyl for 30 years. I have an 84 f150 with no rust. I live in Oregon. It’s easy to apply and buff out. Try it you won’t regret it!
is this now a series?
i hope so haha
the Chris is Wrong series!
I don’t know but I like it....😂😂
every friday we discuss why chrisfix is wrong!
it should be on netflix xD, civil war mechanics, new episode every friday
Those are some good pointers Scotty, but up here in New York, the majority of cars rust out because people drive them on the heavily salted roads in the winter time and they fail to wash them off frequently enough or well enough. (Underbody being most important).
Someone should invent a carwash that actually cleans thoroughly under cars.
My local one does.
@@jimj2683 They recycle water so you just spray diluted salt water at your car, lol.
@@0xsergyIn Europe the recycled water goes through reverse osmosis taking all the salt and other impurities out. Don't know what it is like State side.
@@briancarton1804 reverse osmosis filters are very expensive. i have my doubts..
I'm a cheap bastard and like what my forefathers used to prevent rust.
Boiled Linseed Oil works a treat, it's cheap and effective. It works just great on my bare metal tools too. It sticks like shite to a blanket but way less offensive.
Did I mention that it is cheap too?
Dilute with mineral Turps 50/50 or what suits you.
Nickel compound (anti seize) is terrific for specific purpose too. The stuff wont wash off.
Trouble is if you come in contact with it, it wont wash off you either. Without some petrol or such 🙂
Love your videos Scotty.
Rust is just natural weight reduction
Rusty metal weighs more than unrusted metal (until bits start falling off of course)
I felt that my 2004 Mazda was actually one of the most environmentally responsible cars ever built: it was biodegradable.
@@error404m you are right, because Fe + H2O = FeO
Thet true
@@MaestroTJS Ha,Ha im a little late on this one however your comment is funny as ... well u know LMAO good one and so true
Im starting to think I should go buy a 90s Celica
Don't, You'll never be able to get Scotty out of the back of it
daandriod LOL
You're not the only one. Lol
Lol I know right
If that’s the car you like go ahead. Pretty easy to maintain, modify and manage them.
Here in Massachusetts, many of us do what the Canadians have been doing for decades. We use a product called Fluid Film. Basically just bar and chain oil sprayed through an atomizing spray gun. The underside of your car will remain pristine.
l like bar and chain chainsaw oil sprayed on the underside, works well even on rusty frames, plus it is self healing.
The man who can fix anything
I learned alot from you
Hey, I didnt figure I would see you here. Love the videos
Who knew mustie1 watched scotty!
Hey mustie!
this guy knows how to fix things
great video and advice-here in Stamford ct. they put stuff down on the road that is so caustic that the snow plow trucks are being eaten away -local mechanics are overloaded replacing brake and fuel lines not to mention frame and body damage.
I work beachside in central FL, I wash my car once a week to get off all the salt the collects on the car off of it. Noticed since I’ve gotten the car the small rock chips are now turning into rust 😢 should have watched this earlier
Hahahaha props to the editor for including an image of a pawn when Scotty says "Sacrificially". Brilliant 😂
Thanks, Scotty!! I just booted my mechanic out for scamming me. Now i don’t alllow anyone to touch my car except for an oil change. I should have found you on utube 20 years ago!! Stay well.. 👏👏
I don't even trust those dumb kids at the oil change shops. Changing oil is so simple, I do it myself....I'm 70
This video taught me something: I live in the Bay Area California & I always wondered why so many cars have paint chips + peeling paint
I learnt more chemistry in this one video that in 2years of schooling. You should become a teacher
I was literally just about to say the same. And to top it off, I actually understood what he was talking about ! 👏 👏 👏
You went to a really bad school or didn't pay attention in class. His explanation for oxidation was really supperficial and made for people who never took chemistry.
*Learned
Guess you didn't pay much attention in chemistry...
leatnt
US NAVY certified corrosion control certified here. Excellent video. Couldn't have said it better myself. Sad more people dont do this.
Can rust be completely prevented? Does rust proofing work?
Rust can develop underneath the coating under the car. Just one unnoticed stone chip and the process will start. But you will not see it because the rust will be covered up.
Then why does rust come back after the body shops refinish the spots filler, primer, paint and all??
corrosion control certified? didn’t know they had quals for basic pres work
@@ChronicAndIronicthere’s a pretty extensive class on it nowadays. I was offered it while we were in the shipyards but passed on it because it seemed like a way for contractors to pitch sales for different types of paints that were expensive AF, but the introductory session had some really good information in it.
A wax will have a better shine , but will not last as long as a sealant . There is a cost factor when considering the best method of paint protect and that would be ceramic coating.
oh my god, Scotty is finally talking sense on rust! I'm proud of you.
This video was really nice to see. I live in Michigan and I've had issues with rust so I've asked my family about how to prevent it and they just say you can't. And I found this a bit hard to believe. But my family in general takes good care of their cars so I believed it. I'm glad to hear that they're wrong
he lives in Texas, Every car here in Canada has rust on it
@@ryanchapman6162 He also told his mother lives in Niagara falls and doesn't have rust on her vehicle.
Get/build a garage, and keep it there forever. Genesee County
@@derwones Not a heated garage though. Salt rusts more above freezing so if its cold in the garage its fine.
Rust starts on inside out, salt mud etc stays inside body panels when not washed properly. I've purchased many vehicle's that people dont keep drain holes open and clean. That starts rust. Keep drain holes clean . Where dirt and debris get stuck that where your problems begin.
This is why I Krown rust proof and wax my vehicles, as I live where they use salt. Preventative maintenance. Good informative video !
THUMBS UP FOR KROWN!
like to add I wax inside my doors, the inside sills, especially the lips at he bottom.
ClusterHeadSurvivor My dad krown rust proofs his car, Zero rust. Not even a rusty bolt. We live in the rust belt too. Only downside is your engine bay looks absolutely terrible after a bit.
Krown or another oil spray like Rust Check or Ziebart is the best way to prevent rust in northern climates. Using Scotty's advice, the car would still rust from the rockers, rear fenders, strut towers etc if the car was a northern vehicle, definitely incomplete advice for not mentioning oil spray rust proofing.
I detail mine every summer. But ya don't have too.
An incredibly useful video!! People take factory undercarriage protection for granted and just ignore the fact you should protect the underside after some years.
I guess the reason is we don't look at it every day!!
The only problem is having a jack to lift the car and do the job right
I love my Toyotas but living in Nebraska I have lost many Corollas and Camrys to rust. I think I'm going to try this.
Nothing beats the oil rustproofing for the frames and panel interiors. Fluid film is probably good too, but 100K miles and no rust. Do it every two years. Its messy but it works.
Would spraying WD40 on the frame work?
Also, when you guys do this, do you just coat the entire underneath, frame, transmission and everything? Or are there some things/places you should avoid?
You sir,are a powerhouse encyclopedia of knowledge..I so enjoy your videos! God bless you Scotty for all the good that you do for car owners everywhere!🙏😇
My 98 Chevy Silverado has sat outside since new and not a single spec of rust anywhere. Here’s what I do: twice a year I spray Aero Kroil or some other penetrating oil all over the underside. The frame rails, a arms, rocker panels, inner wheel wells, leaf springs and all the fuel and brake lines door edges and hinges, inside the bumpers. I use the entire can, sometimes two. It has worked for me.
Scotty...as a bodyman/painter I can tell you that clearcoat is a "cross linked polymer" ...you can not "nourish" clear coat with a wax. The real purpose of wax is to be an extra "sacrificial layer" that can be replaced easily and cheaply...and it is slippery so that dirt does not gain a foothold in the tiny scratches caused by grit as you drive, and from washing and wiping the grit at the car wash. You are exactly right about exposed metal corrosion , but DIRT is another enemy because DIRT is like a sponge that holds moisture against the surfaces of your vehicle...especially inside the doors and wheel wells . Look at northern Dodge , Ford (steel bodied) and Chevy trucks and what do you always see? Rusted out wheel openings over the rear wheels. Why is that? It's because the inner structure is like a shelf where DIRT gets to sit unless you get in there and consistently wash it out...some people even drill drain holes in the upper wheel well lip to make drain holes so they can wash it out easier.
Cleaning leaves and such from behind the wheel well covers every so often is a must.
Thank you for this analysis...
If I understand you correctly, the old trick about oil spraying your car and then driving down a dirt road, so the would sticks and form an additional layer of protection is actually counter-productive?
@@VLK-73 Used oil has some acidic content, but what will happen is it will attract dirt until you go through puddles and then the oil is floated off by the water, but the wet dirt can remain. Just look at any puddle in a parking lot, what do you see on the surface? The multicoloured film of oil from someone's leaky motor. Some people oil the hood hinges on their trucks, then the oil attracts dirt, and then the hinges bind and the hood bends before the hinges will open up. I'm sure you've seen 70's Chevy trucks with bent hoods from seized hinges. Grease hinges...wash and let dry the underside of a vehicle and check the drain holes on doors, use a small tie wrap to make sure they are open because doors are designed to let water flow through .
In Canada, oil spray is very popular and very efficient. Oil is prayed under the vehicle and inside the panels.
What kind of oil spray you guys use there? Is it helpful specially in Winters when you have salt all over on roads?
is that wd60 oil? yes that prevents rust i know but confirming
@@raja19806 Corrosion Free and Fluid Film are decent. WD40 is a water displacer.
Hi Scotty, Cousin Ron, here, like your tips, keep them coming!
Damn Scotty... if you keep up these roasts on Chris you should consider wearing a chef's hat in the next video. Keep up the good work! :)
Hey Scotty, I know a number of people who coat the underside of their vehicles with diesel in the winter to protect them from the brine which is sprayed on the road to melt snow. Does this actually work and will the diesel harm the paint or metal on the bottom of the vehicle?
I put linseed oil on all rusty stuff on the underside and since I started with that every spring and autumn when switching to and from winter wheels, rusting has stopped completely. Did do the paint stuff before but problem is it very easily starts to rust underneath the paint if you don't get it clean enough. No such problem with linseed oil, you can even apply it to damp rusty metal and the extremely small molecules of this particular oil will penetrate and stop the oxidation. Another benefit is that it dries in a week or so and while doing that expands 10-15% thus sealing small cracks and such. A cheap and great method of preserving your car if you have to live with salty winters!
I wish I saw this video when I was a kid. My 1993 Celica might still have a body 😂 the engine still works
Scotty you sounded very calm. Are you okay?
David Bonnett maybe he can hear properly again
David Bonnett
Oh yep. Now I am missing his loud sound.
Fluid Film. I apply it to most everything underneath that doesn’t move or get hot. Also I spray inside the drain holes of the door/trunk to prevent rust around the bottom. Redone every fall right before the snow hits.
Thank you! Very informative. I've done clearcoat on older cars with rust on them and it has worked really well so far for preserving the paint and patina finish on those spots. Thanks a lot for all the info!
When I was a young lad in WV we would occasionally paint our truck frame with used oil. Seemed to work well on a surface rusted frame as the rust would soak it up.
New oil is better (and cheap, you dont need much) used oil gets kinda acidic from all the contaminants in it, so it'll eat away at metal (but still better than no covering against the elements, sorta)
Met an old well driller that drove an Old Chevy pickup from the 60’s , the truck was completely rust free . When asked he said he always poured his old oil from oil changes down the doors and into the hood cracks etc . He let it drain overnight on cardboard then simply wiped the rockers etc .
Scotty has some of the best videos on RUclips. His pace is perfect, he's very clear and informative and he's not boring. Good topics covered also. Maybe it's the pot brownies I ate but I'm loving Scotty right now
Probably...
But that garage though lol oh Scotty
@@clseairsppt That's the garage of a good mechanic, not a salesman!! :)
Unfortunately, rust is like cancer. I've had great results using Ospho.
What is ospho?
@@yallgonemadd3786 I think it’s rust prevention
@@yallgonemadd3786 A phosphoric acid metal prep that can be applied to fresh bare metal to prevent flash rusting, to rusty surfaces as a rust converter and to clean ferrous metals before powder coating to create a surface layer of inert iron phosphate that won't rust plus is semi-porous so promotes better adhesion since the hot powder coating is absorbed into it. The industrial powder coaters immerse the parts in tanks of phosphoric acid for set periods of time to obtain a thicker surface layer of iron phosphate for maximum adhesion.
just get yourself some surface shield by blaster company it works great
I used to use old engine oil thinned down with petrol 50/50, put it in a plant sprayer and doused the underside of the car. Not good for rubber, but it stops the metal from rusting.
I work at the Ford, GM, Chrysler all auto manufactures in paint dept. You are correct about the Elpo/Phosphate dip. They dunk car bodies and when going through paint shop bodies are grounded and the paint robots also have High Voltage 90,000Kv that charges the paint and help to adhere to the body. More often than the plants admit the High Voltage systems has issues regularly. Most time they will disable the HV system to keep robots painting but they 5 years down the road it starts to wear out prematurely. So Clearcoat peels off or is thin and will begin to rust. Bottom edges of doors on the F150's is a hot spot for low paint film builds so they start to rust early. Almost all auto manufactures have their weak spots that are usually in same areas. I always drive F150 so I notice all mine on bottom edge inside of driver door is a spot to keep an eye. Since I've worked with every auto manufacturer applying, designing paint specs, repairing the paint robots, film build densities and so on, FORD has the most reliable paint process of all manufacturers!. Also if you get real lucky you'll have a vehicle that went through the paint booths and missed a little spot so they will send it through the second time to get painted again. In my experience those are the vehicles you want because they will not rust and the paint hold up forever because it's got twice as many layers. I look for indications of 2 runs through paint booth and buy those vehicles even if it not the color I want because it will last forever!. The next F150 I buy is going to be brand new right off the line and I am going to be in charge of sending my truck through the paint shop twice so paint job wil last forever! I worked on, loaded, maintained and inspected Tom Brady's truck for winning the super bowl and the truck was labeled as such through production so people knew not to make any mistakes or slack on that specific vehicle through the whole production process.
Good Stuff! Thanks!
Greg Hannigan I wish manufacturers would offer vehicles that are double painted. That would be very nice. Do they think people want to drive rust buckets?
So unless they paint Fords twice the paint is useless?
@@IanRLewis They are still good, I prefer Ford. All manufacturers have their weak spots. Ford's Clearcoat is more durable than the other manufacturers but all the plants miss spots. Double layered vehicle is a bonus.
@@greghannigan4702 I have never seen a rusted German car in upstate NY. All the others have holes.
I remember when I was growing up in the 70s and 80s, you'd see rust on cars all over the place. People would use Bondo to cover up the holes that rotted through the metal. Today, you see 20+ year old cars, and they still look like new.
This is so true, a 10 year old car with 100k miles was a real pos back in the day!
I look for rustproofing paint in spraycan.
Almost every car in Kmart's parking lot in the 80's had rust all over it. (Nebraska) my dad had 2 vehicles where the floor metal was rusted away... You could see the ground. The old stop sign trick
Your right buddy. I done my mitsubishi colt czt turbo last year. Took it for it's yearly MOT .the guy said it looks like a New car. In fact it 11 years old.
I agree with Dave Houston regarding the use of an oil based product over the paint on type. It gets into everything. Having said that though, it can be hard on the rubber seals around the doors and trunk. I also worry about the door speakers as well. I had an old Bonneville that was professionally sprayed yearly and the body was still in great shape when I finally got rid or it.
Another thing to consider is that if you DIY spray you have to make sure that it doesn't get on the brakes or exhaust. That combined with the mess, I think it's better to pay the $120/year to have somebody else do it.
$125 won't get you in the front door of the spray shops in Canada. Not to mention a lot of these companies do a poor job and just hope the customer never goes under the car afterwards. Good odds of the typical owner not bothering to look afterwards. I've bought the stuff needed for Fluid Film application ($90can per USgal) as our new car has so many plastic panels under it there is no way I'd trust a shop to remove the panels then spray it. They will definitely take the short-cut and try with them on.
Scotty Kilmer 2018: why you shouldn’t buy a turbo
Scotty Kilmer 2028: why you shouldn’t to buy a car
Nethter o
we shouldn't have to buy a car. It would be nice if people could meet their needs without buying a car. But GM and car profiteers made sure the public doesn't have that option
😂😂😂😂
You're right. I shouldn't be able to get to work 30 miles away, instead of finding a crappy low paying job 2 miles away. We shouldn't have an economy either. And semi trucks? Useless. Send em all to the scrapper.
luke saylor you completely missed the point of my comment. Angry hurtful people use sarcasm FYI
I wish I saw this video as a kid. My 93 Celica got rusted away because I lived in Minnesota and then Miami but the engine still works...
You, are, the, best! Scotty for President!
Undercoating oil like fluid film works wonders on preserving metal also, I soak the underside of my truck every fall with it
I've only seen 1 person do this.
Thought about it. A little late though.
@@robertcollins7515 I “redid” a truck for a winter beater. 2-3 coats of primer + paint and is still starting to rust. Mainly from rocks chipping it and rust that was in cracks
I been using Fluid Film the last couple of years, & I live in the rust belt, also applied nu -finish this past fall also on windshield , an ounce of prevention is worth lbs.of rust.
@@Botman.com1125 how many years has it been driven in the winter salt and is it completely rust free as a result?
@@whatitisnt. I've been spraying fluid film since 2019, love it ,I spray it on everything!🙂
Problem is if you paint that under the car and there is already rust there it’s difficult to see and if you paint over it , it will just seal in moisture and rust and do more harm that good . Spraying it with oil is the best thing to do
Thank you for the Nu Finish mention. I used to use it in the pre-clearcoat days. Been hesitant since then. I loved it, easy to apply and did a great job. I'll go back to using it.
Bondo may not be permanent, but if it gets you by on a car for the remaining time you own it before it goes to the junkyard then why not? No point in spending thousands on a car worth a couple hundred bucks when bondo will get you an inspection sticker no problem
Bondi gets you through the summer. Falls apart in winter. Cosmetic no real value.
Too bad I didn't see this and learn about the clear coat spray quick tip BEFORE the rust spread around my license plate on the tailgate of the 2011 Ford Explorer. My uncle said it was a bad batch of metal being used so rusting from inside out. Now my entire lower part of the gate is crumbly and it is a hazard to open/close. ONLY spot where rust is showing up on this MN car too! Thanks for the reminder of wash/wax seasonally. I think I can do that....
I work in Aviation and Scotty hit the nail on the head. Most of this can be found in NA-01-1A-509 series.
bimmer audi good
bimmer audi bag boy?
NATEC
What series of the 509 lol!!
bimmer audi and?
Hey Scotty! I picked up a 1999 Saturn SL2 for $800. Rides great and fluids are good. One issue I have is that there is a bit of rust in the rear passenger door sill (which I hear is common on the S-series. What would the steps be to correct this issue? And is it too late to start applying Rust Bullet? Thanks!
From Calgary CND, the salt on the roads up here is quickly rusting up my VW Golf. I got rust forming over the rear wheels! I noticed a lot of the chips that are starting to rust too. Ahh the car isn't even 10 years old.
Thanks Scotty always great info. My Dad was in the 101st Airborne Division in World War II. Lost his leg in Bastogne.
Lol
I live in Ohio and rust is a serious problem here. Once a year I jack my truck up as high as I can get it, I wire brush, scotchbright, scrape and needle peen any loose paint and or rust. I wipe it all down then paint with rustoleum black. An ounce of prevention is worth more than a pound of cure. I have to agree with Scotty on this one.
tdej80 I live in Ohio too. I just bedliner'd my entire truck lol
Alive n Well and Happy I would not blame you if you did for real. One of my friends did that to a 2nd generation Dodge that he rebuilt with Texas sheet metal. It looks pretty darn good truth be told.
Abe E we need to go to southern states or Mexico and get some high mile or blown drivetrain cars then bring them back home and put our engines and transmissions in them.
Super info on rust prevention.
Btw Scotty, Toyota replaced the rusty frame on my 2005 Tacoma last spring. It took them two weeks and I got to enjoy a 2018 Tacoma for free.
Here we go again..
Dude...
Ballas country
he has decades of experience , and as car guy himself he most likely uses his free time to learn some of the new methods and all that stuff ,that's what passion is,he is a 60+ year old youtuber , i think he is not that bad with technology
George Altezza hahah I thought the same thing when I saw video
@John Davis could you please share what new technologies and techniques can permanently fix rust? I have rust on my car and need it gone
When I lived in New Jersey I used to get an undercarriage wash every time they put salt on the road about once or twice a week
Doesn't introducing even more water cause more rust?
.
.
.
@@007nadineL Keeping the underbody clean helps prevent rust. Water itself does not cause rust but water contains dissolved oxygen. If its just water, it should dry, but with dirt the drying process is slowed, gives rust a foothold. Products like Fluid-Film can protect against rust. F/F is made from lanolin (wood oil) and resists oxidation. Coating with used motor oil can help too, but probably should be cleaned and reapplied at least once a year.
@@007nadineL water neutralizes the salt.
Yeah I lived in Upstate ny and always washed off under my car with the wand at the car wash .
I also raise the hood and rinse off inner fenders , under the hood and radiator .
Automatic car washes wont do that .
@@007nadineL It rains often enough that the bottom of the car is often soaked anyway. Pick a rainy day and do a complete wash at home, no more wet than it already was.
Here in upstate NY the only way to slow down rust is to use an oil based rust proofer every year. Even then it will happen. Folds in body panels and trapped moisture will often rot the quarters or doors from the inside out. You might slow down the rust process with rust bullet or por15 but in the end the winter salt will just LOL at you. The only way to keep your car rust free is to not drive it in the winter.
Who would have thought that Scotty’s mother owns a Toyota?! 😀
that's where he got it from!
Who would of thought she was alive🤣😭
He was born in a Toyota
I drive a Chevrolet it makes its own rust prevention aka leaks oil like sieve
in Canada we call it Rust Check every fall. I have an 06 Sierra - she is rock solid underneath, doors and rockers are perfect
I've been using fluid film here in Maine to coat the underside of my car before winter. I wonder what works better.
Game Loot fluid film, its what the military uses.
Oil undercoats should be regular maintenance especially if you live in the rust belt
I get fluid film coating on mine before each winter (or if not a full coat I at least spray the "trouble" spots where rust is starting). I wonder what works better... oiling it or painting it?
I have actually used both on 2 different cars. Both work really well when the person applying them knows what they're doing. I would argue that Fluid film is actually an "oil"in all reality. Despite people claiming you need a coating a year, I have found living in the Chicagoland area that I'm averaging 2-3 times a year. I will say Fluid film is easier to apply though but the downside to that is I have missed spots before from it's ease of use
In NE Ohio I use Fluid Film. The cars I have already have rust, but the Fluid Film coats and penetrates and doesn't wash off easily as it is wool oil lanolin based. I buy it by the gallon and spray or use cheap paint brushes to get it in everywhere.
In 1994 Toyota developed a high tech rustproof steel used exclusively on the Celica. It was shortly taken off the market and the patent was sealed in a vault.
ojars zvaigzne not really. People still want the latest and greatest, and offload perfectly good used Toyota’s on the used market so smart folks can buy cheaper and still get a good vehicle. Win win.
It was going so well... until the inevitable "recommended product" was held defiantly into view. I had to chuckle at the proclamation that "it's not a big job". Err what?
Living in the UK and near the coast, I am familiar with rust on vehicles. I have experimented with the various "treatments" myself, including the famed POR15. Do not underestimate the preparation required for these; thoroughly cleaning the underside (a cursory spraying of the hose will not suffice), scraping off underseal/coating in the affected areas (a right messy job), cleaning with special chemicals (POR requires a cleaner and metal prep) and then finally applying the stuff. Even with diligent prep, after 6 months the results were mixed at best and nowhere near worth the time, effort and mess. The notion that you would just "spray [insert magic treatment here] on" without thorough preparation (i.e. making it a big messy job) and expecting it to produce desirable results is wishful thinking at an extreme level.
I fear, thanks to these videos, people will get the wrong idea about these 'rust prevention' products. I implore people; DO YOUR OWN RESEARCH! Otherwise, the advice about a quick spray of clear coat after a scratch was neat!
I am good friends with a toyota tech and he said the reason why the frames rusted so quick and badly is due to poorly designed drainage holes. the drain holes would plug up...fill the frame with dirt/dust/salts and hold moisture causing the rust.
Scotty throwing shade.
Imagine looking outside your window and you see your neighbor recording himself inside the trunk of his car lol keep up the good work Scotty love the videos man
I have used a whole gallon of black rustoleum paint on my ford f150 and went through a whole winter still looks great yes it had some rust but it wasn't too bad I do tend to knock off the loose stuff first and then paint and hope of the best I find that alot of people try an use that rubberized undercoating crap which I find to make it worse
5:13 currently watching this while Texas is frozen 👌
When Texas is frozen in the winter, it's a miracle.
When Michigan is NOT frozen and the roads are NOT full of salt that eats your fenders... that's a miracle that hasn't happen yet.
Scotty, you're a God send. Keep up the good work. Thank you.
In the U.K. we have loads of salt on the road in winter. Put Waxoyl on the underneath structure....job done.
My goodness, First that sacrificial correlation with Chess and Then Justin Bieber bumping under your car, you are a Genius, Would give you an Extra like if I could.
User Cellphone create another account and like it again foo
User Cellphones
User Cellphone plpolp
Exactly what i wanted to hear for rust prevention. Thanks for the knowledge scotty, we'll always ring that bell 😁
thanks for this upload, Scotty! very helpful advice!
5:11 "Here in Houston don't need it much.. maybe once every 30 years" *2021 IS THE YEAR >:D*
'All kinds of things hit it'. I see what you did there. lmao
King Luke, let's just say he's NOT a "belieber"
Ponderdeep that was a little Asian dude
George.Dubya.Kush, I think it's just lighting differences making him look darker, but I could be wrong. At any rate, JB would be funnier than an unknown Asian.
Ponderdeep idk man I think it would be funnier knowing that scotty Kilmer runs over random Asian guys😂
George.Dubya.Kush, ok, when you put it that way! LOL!
(My apologies to random Asian families!)
SCOTTY IS AWESOME
Awesome video and facts. Bondo actually holds moisture. Someone I knew used duct tape. It made it worse on their car
So will primer and I see people leave only primer coats all the time after body work. asking for it.
My hood is all primer and even after a year of only primer (I live in PA btw) There is ZERO rust on it. It's parked in my driveway outside. I don't drive it when there's salt on the roads though.
It's sucking in moisture so get some paint on it.
Bondo is a brand
If bondo holds moisture in, it should hold moisture out... ur argument is flawed
Best video I’ve seen about rust, I have over 20 years autobody experience, and I live in the north, salt mega every winter, great video and he’s 100% correct.
I’ve seen comments on dangers of getting the products on break pads and lines. As a non-car person, do you think this is a good idea for DIY’ers to try?
* Hey SCOTTY,
ANOTHER FANTASTICALLY INFORMATIVE VIDEO !
I LIVE ''UP NORTH'' in NEW HAMPSHIRE,
And AS SOON AS THE WEATHER ALLOWS ME TO JACK UP
MY 2016 CHEVY 2500 DOUBLE CAB LONG BED PICK-UP
I'm GOING TO APPLY SOME OF THAT STOP RUST PAINT. !
NOW , IF YOU COULD DO A SMALL SEGMENT ABOUT RUST REPAIR...
I HAVE THE BEGINNING OF RUST ON MY 2005 CHEVY HHR WHEEL-WELL.
( ABOUT THE SIZE OF A DECK of CARDS.)
I DIDN'T NOTICE IT DURING OUR SNOWY SEASON, BUT IT ''BUBBLED UP'' FROM UNDER THE PAINT AND BROKE THROUGH THE PAINT.
I QUICKLY SPRAYED IT WITH LAYERS of CLEAR COAT that I KEEP FOR PROJECTS.
BUT I'd LOVE TO FIX THAT UGLY SPOT !
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
THANK YOU
As ALWAYS,
SGT. E. E. ROCK