Great video. Im likely to get into this project this weekend and i have not been looking forward to it. Now after seeing this i am more confident about it.
I swapped out motors. I took my 94.5 7.3 for a 95 7.3. The 95 is authentic. I am wanting to change to 5 speed. I tried putting the flywheel on , and the screws won't go back in.
On this one, I really don't remember the details as it was over 5 yrs ago, lol. It seems like I may recall using a mirror at an angle with a flashlight and seen the edge of the crack. I believe I was able to see a seared look. It may have been an inspection camera also. It's kinda hard to describe unless you know what you're looking at. This one sounded like a rod knock. It was pretty loud. It's amazing how a broke flex plate sounds like a rod knock. Sorry I couldn't help more. Thanks for watching!
ford 460 no alignment pin, should the flexplate weight be facing the 12 o'clock position ? or be facing 180 degs the other way in the 6 o'clock position? in relation to the hatchet weight in the front. please help me, thanks
I have owned two Ford's and both have broke flex plates in the same style of break. Even driving at normal speeds and not gassing it. The truck was a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 liter V6 4 speed 4r55e transmission, it broke 5 of them before I abandoned it. I could not find any after market billet flex plates for it. Then I owned a 2000 Ford Escort SE 2.0 I 4 with 4 speed F4EAT transmission. It snapped one. And bent one. So finally I heat temped the next flexplate that installed in the car. I baked the flexplate at around 500 °f for an hour. Then let it air cool and painted with VHT high temp engine paint and reinstalled it with a stainless steel spacer and lock tight and lock washer on the crank hub bolts. Then torqued it to spec. It never broke on me. I wished I had done the same thing with trucks flexplate.
What size were the bell housing bolts please? I need to do this job and I wanna be prepared with the right size swivel socket. Also, if you know the thread pitch and diameter of the bolt, I was going to try that all thread trick the other guy mentioned
If you go online to ATI maybe they have racing grade flexplates. I owned to fords. A 1997 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 v6 4 speed automatic, and a 2000 Ford Escort SE. Both broke flexplates. Finally after losing the truck because of it I called pioneer flexplates. He told me the flexplate's are not heat tempered. It took a couple of phones and questions about the flexplate's. The second call I asked him if the flexplate's are heat tempered, he replied "no". So on the 2000 Ford Escort SE I heat tempered flexplate. I baked it for one hour at 500°F and then took it out of the oven and let it air cool on a concrete patio.
@@drewhaas23 I never got around to it, but I don't think it was that. I did find that something under the rear bed was coming off and vibrating against the bed making a rattling noise. That solved half my issue. Now I am still trying to pin the other. I do think it might be my exhaust though.
This truck had a knocking sound like the engine had a bad bearing or other internal damage. It had actually been mis-diagnosed by a large chain transmission shop and the owner was told the engine was bad and needed replaced. When it was brought to me by wrecker, I replaced the flex plate and save them thousands that the big shop would've charged them.
This one sounded like a rattle coming from the lower end. Before it was brought to me, another shop diagnosed it as a lower end knock needing an engine replacement/rebuild. When the flex plate breaks completely, they won't start. Hope I helped! Thanks for watching.
@@okcvet1st Mine was loud as hell between idle and just above idle. Soon as I hit the throttle it would shut up quiet. As long as constant torque is applied to the trans it's quiet (like driving on the highway steady speed). It sounds like a bad diesel knock and gets progressively worse. Once I noticed it I think I drove another 35miles on errands and made it to my shop just in time. The other possibility was a dead injector but that would run kinda rough and make a noise all the time. Same thing with alternator or pulleys they would be noisy all the time not just at idle.
According to all the idiots on the diesel forums, this is impossible. Great job sir. Much appreciated
Thanks for watching! It is a tight squeeze, but it is def possible.
Great video. Im likely to get into this project this weekend and i have not been looking forward to it. Now after seeing this i am more confident about it.
Out of all the videos iv seen on this. This ways probably the best one. Iv got to change a flex plate out of a 85 bronco 5.8.
I swapped out motors. I took my 94.5 7.3 for a 95 7.3. The 95 is authentic. I am wanting to change to 5 speed. I tried putting the flywheel on , and the screws won't go back in.
How did you diagnose? Were you able to see the Crack at all from the inspection plate?
On this one, I really don't remember the details as it was over 5 yrs ago, lol. It seems like I may recall using a mirror at an angle with a flashlight and seen the edge of the crack. I believe I was able to see a seared look. It may have been an inspection camera also. It's kinda hard to describe unless you know what you're looking at. This one sounded like a rod knock. It was pretty loud. It's amazing how a broke flex plate sounds like a rod knock. Sorry I couldn't help more. Thanks for watching!
Straight forward no bullshit. Good information thank you
Thanks for the video. Looks a lot easier than dropping trans. I've got mine on the hoist right now. Busted flex plate. 228k miles.
ford 460 no alignment pin, should the flexplate weight be facing the 12 o'clock position ?
or be facing 180 degs the other way in the 6 o'clock position?
in relation to the hatchet weight in the front.
please help me, thanks
I have owned two Ford's and both have broke flex plates in the same style of break. Even driving at normal speeds and not gassing it. The truck was a 1996 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 liter V6 4 speed 4r55e transmission, it broke 5 of them before I abandoned it. I could not find any after market billet flex plates for it. Then I owned a 2000 Ford Escort SE 2.0 I 4 with 4 speed F4EAT transmission. It snapped one. And bent one. So finally I heat temped the next flexplate that installed in the car. I baked the flexplate at around 500 °f for an hour. Then let it air cool and painted with VHT high temp engine paint and reinstalled it with a stainless steel spacer and lock tight and lock washer on the crank hub bolts. Then torqued it to spec. It never broke on me. I wished I had done the same thing with trucks flexplate.
What a hack. Should have dropped trans and fixed that oil leak too
I saw a trick...all thread through the bell housing to keep it all aligned when going back together
Good video help me out with a flywheel issue right on
Thanks for the video bud very helpful🤘
What size were the bell housing bolts please? I need to do this job and I wanna be prepared with the right size swivel socket. Also, if you know the thread pitch and diameter of the bolt, I was going to try that all thread trick the other guy mentioned
19 millimeter
Threads are M12-1.75
Nice simple video going to give this a try on my truck
Let me know how it went, hope my vid helped. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the help
Good video but I need to know which way fly wheel go back in and spacers
If you go online to ATI maybe they have racing grade flexplates. I owned to fords. A 1997 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer Edition 4.0 v6 4 speed automatic, and a 2000 Ford Escort SE. Both broke flexplates. Finally after losing the truck because of it I called pioneer flexplates. He told me the flexplate's are not heat tempered. It took a couple of phones and questions about the flexplate's. The second call I asked him if the flexplate's are heat tempered, he replied "no". So on the 2000 Ford Escort SE I heat tempered flexplate. I baked it for one hour at 500°F and then took it out of the oven and let it air cool on a concrete patio.
Do you have to do all that to replace the flex plate cover?
No the flex plate cover is not that bad to remove, just take bolts out, drop the cover down and replace
Thanks for the video, just took the flex plate off . It looks intact any idea on what else I should look at?
Little late on this video, but did you find your problem? Torque Converter maybe? I am getting rattling/chatter/squeaks from underneath on my 7.3l.
@@TripletDadLife did you figure it out I think my flex plate is cracked.
@@drewhaas23 I never got around to it, but I don't think it was that. I did find that something under the rear bed was coming off and vibrating against the bed making a rattling noise. That solved half my issue. Now I am still trying to pin the other. I do think it might be my exhaust though.
What caused the flex plate to brake?
I have the same problem on my 96 f350 was it easy putting it back in or did you have to move it further back
Gee. I wanted to see how you got that 7.3 international to roll for the torque converter bolts
I'm putting my e4od in and there are 4 converter studs. I can't get it to turn with a pry bar, but bumping the starter might comprise the bolt threads
How did you get the top passenger side bellhousing bolt out without lowering the rear of the trans down?
18" extension with swivel and 19mm standard socket. Had to use 1/2". Tried with 3/8" but was gonna break something. Thats a mean bolt!
was your truck making a roaring noise prier to the flex plate breaking?
This truck had a knocking sound like the engine had a bad bearing or other internal damage. It had actually been mis-diagnosed by a large chain transmission shop and the owner was told the engine was bad and needed replaced. When it was brought to me by wrecker, I replaced the flex plate and save them thousands that the big shop would've charged them.
@@okcvet1st awesome!!! Glad to hear there is honest people out there. did you pull the tranny all the way out or just slide it back?
thx appreciate the knowledge ,,,,,,
Thanks For This Video! #help #hack #777Slots
Thanks!
What did it sound like when it went bad?
This one sounded like a rattle coming from the lower end. Before it was brought to me, another shop diagnosed it as a lower end knock needing an engine replacement/rebuild. When the flex plate breaks completely, they won't start. Hope I helped! Thanks for watching.
@@okcvet1st Mine was loud as hell between idle and just above idle. Soon as I hit the throttle it would shut up quiet. As long as constant torque is applied to the trans it's quiet (like driving on the highway steady speed). It sounds like a bad diesel knock and gets progressively worse. Once I noticed it I think I drove another 35miles on errands and made it to my shop just in time. The other possibility was a dead injector but that would run kinda rough and make a noise all the time. Same thing with alternator or pulleys they would be noisy all the time not just at idle.
@@westvandude did you ever figure out what was wrong? I am having the same issues and have no clue where to start