A quick and dirty guide for those reading the comments - Diesel Fuel in the coolant = Cracked Injector cups Diesel Fuel in oil / vise versa = bad injector o-rings Oil in coolant usually means a bad oil cooler as well If the engine has blowby and it blows the oil cap off the fill tube, that engine is worn out and in need of repair. If it’s just a little smoke, you’ll be fine. If the overdrive light on the column shifter is flashing, the transmission is toast. Try and jump the starter solenoid and listen to the engine turn over. If the engine has a consistent sound turning over, it’s healthy. If the engine skips or has a sudden change of sound while cranking, one or multiple cylinders has low compression. Solid video as always!
I think one point I’ve found on other threads is that it isn’t likely fuel ends up in the oil via bad injector o rings because the pressures in the oil system are too great comparatively. Would normally go the other way… oil into the fuel. In my case I could open the fuel bowl and see the darker result. Don’t buy the cheapest orings. I’ve found they are just not the right composition and don’t work.. I think buying from diesel orings was the best deal. Cheap cup extractor kit can work but the bolt holding the tap can break from too much force and leave you having to fab an extractor extractor up… lol. Yes I ended up with fuel and maybe a little oil in my coolant from either a cracked cup or cup leak.
After driving my 7.3 for 20 years I'm always amazed how it takes the exact amount of rotations of the engine to start on mine and other 7.3s. Yes, you can tell.
That’s a steal. I could probably sell mine for $20k where I’m at. It’s a 96 F250 XLT 4x4. It had 189k on it when I bought it in 2016 for $8k. It’s got 260k on it now but I repainted it, put a flatbed on it, and put an iron bull bumper and new tires on it. Wouldn’t sell it any day, never had a problem with it besides the stupid mf that is an e40d
Yep they start in the cold down into the teens and twenties if they are well maintained and it good shape. I rarely wait for the WTS light to go out, I just jump in and crank and it starts every time, with 239K on the ticker. When it's below 40 or colder outside thought I usually cycle it twice so I don't have to crank as long. Thanks for the video, I'll send it to people when they ask me on my channel or on the FB forum. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have no idea why people go and say 7.3s can’t start in the cold gotta have them plugged in because my dads 2002 7.3 started right up in -8 degree weather after sitting 2 weeks prior to that my dad always says if everything taken care of and maintained then it’ll start
I took a job in Salt Lake City a few years back where I lived for about 3 yrs. We had a handful of very bitter cold winter mornings a degree or 2 below zero and my 7.3 always started with no problems albeit I had a glow plug relay that failed one morning and then it wouldn't start. Picked one up later that day at oreillys and been fine ever since. My block heater has not been used even 1 time. While living there I would run 5w40 in the winter time and 15w40 in the summer. Truck still going strong to this day with 380k on the clock.
@raymondclass6794 my 7.3 would start with no problems after sitting all night in sub zero temperatures when I used to live in Salt Lake City. No block heater or ether needed. 300k+ mi. At the time.
Those block heaters definitely spin the power meter. I had a old 95 F350 after having to keep it plugged in about 2 1/2 months one winter I could have rebuilt the engine for price of power Bill's lol
When I bought mine it came with an air filter about that size, the first thing I did was buy a Banks Power intake to let it breathe better. As long as you keep up on the maintenance these last a very long time. I have 416,000 miles so far and still chugging along.
Thank you! I'm new to diesel. I checked out an '01 F350 a couple days ago and I want to get it, but even before I saw this video, I was having some doubts about the fact that the owner started it before I got out of my vehicle. I tend to be over trusting so I'll be sure to check all these out before making any final decisions.
Any powerstroke i have owned/looked at, 7.3s, 6.0s.and 6.4s all have a wire near the passenger side battery that looks like it has a in line fuse, but it is not. Pull it apart in the middle of that plastic connector and you can make contact with the two wires and the motor will crank over without starting. Good way to hear if compression is even across all cylinders or if there is any valve issues. I live in Wi. And they always started for me no matter how cold it was. I preferred to plug it in once temps dropped below 15° at night, but you would occasionally forget and they would still start, just not as happily.
The short time you are turning the engine over at very low RPM while using the leads that they provide and use for such a purpose I don't feel come with a high risk of unnecessary wear to the engine. But it does allow for you to hear if a individual cylinder is getting tired by listening for a change in the speed of engine turning over. Something you wouldn't hear by simply starting it up. All that's going to tell you is it has enough compression in enough cylinders to start.
Yep, my 7.3 starts in -40° weather, it’s not her favorite thing in the world but she starts😂 she is starting to struggle more in the cold but I’m not to worried I plan on doing a full rebuild within the next year.
I’m not as familiar with the 7.3… I am looking at a 99 7.3 manual long that crew cab on Monday it’s got 344,000 miles on it. The transmission was rebuilt last year. I’ve heard good things about this particular diesel and the years that you had described like every vehicle, there’s gonna be notorious issues, so all the info I can get here is super helpful… the one that I will be looking at in pictures looks extremely clean no paint failure even the interior is the best I’ve seen for the year that it is so without physically messing with it I feel good fives but I’m terrified as anybody would, I only have enough money to buy it from a total truck that I had recently
I have a 99 manual trans f350 full throttle performance edition 4x4 and it cold starts no problem 287k miles on it and wheel mine on the daily on my ranch
Thank you!! Very informative! I’m was looking for a 96 7.3L Powerstroke until now. Now you got me looking for any from 95 to 03. TruckHouseLife here in youtube has a 96 7.3L Powerstroke & he lives in Alaska. His truck has cold started every time until it hit minus 40 degrees. I think he has a block heater & that didn’t help. His buddies help him out by towing it to a garage where it was over 100 hundred degrees. When it thawed out, it started. I would like to get one to put a flatbed for work & then put a camper on it for family backcountry road trips. It seems the best time to look for one when is during the winter when it’s very frigid. To see if it pass the “cold start”. Also, I know nothing about diesel since I never owned one. But I’m willing to learn here on youtube. Learning all the preventative maintenance & what not.
Maybe this is overkill, but you can get infrared cameras for your phone that are like $200. They can be really useful for many things. If you had one like that, you could just casually put it on your phone, and then use it to "look" under the truck and quickly see what is hot and what temp it is.
I had a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke, F-350. Single rear wheel, 4 door long bed. I had that truck, north of Rock Springs, Wyoming, in -30 degrees with windchill. That truck sat in that for three days. It started, had to crank it a bit, 4 times, it fired up. It was obvious it was cold. When it started it ran like crap for about 5 mins. After that it was fine. I sold that truck, in 2009. Wished I’d a never sold that truck. 6 years old with 176, 000 miles on it. Ran perfectly.
I remember when I was stationed up in Alaska in the mid ‘00’s and guys would always be having competitions about who’s better Ford, Chevy, or Dodge when it comes to trucks and especially diesels!! I’ve always been more of a Ford Man in terms of from 1999-2011. I LOVE the mid 90’s Chevy OBS gas 1500’s with the Z71 and the old small block 350 5.7L V8 engine though too. I wish I could afford an “older” (never thought I’d say ANYTHING from the 90’s or 00’s was considered “old” now…damn I am getting old haha) F-250 7.3L Powerstroke but unfortunately when my fusion got totaled out, they only gave me enough to be able to afford an ‘04 Expedition with the 2 Valve 5.4L V8 (so another words, the good engine) it only had 123,000 on it. It’s in incredible condition!
Thank you for sharing your experience. Looking at a 2003 6.0 F-350 dually. 130k miles. Surprised no blow by, coolant clean, trans fluid normal, head bolts no studs. Has a tuner inside cab to monitor temps & pressures. Looks to have Alliant injectors & controller plus aftermarket fuel pressure module. Engine pretty clean some oil residue. Started right up no hesitation, no smoke? Ran it on city streets & short freeway run. Let truck sit for about 40 minutes, inspected asphalt under truck, no drips. Kinda blown away actually. Dealer asking 19900. Kentucky truck so little rust on frame, body pretty clean. Was expecting the worst, kinda surprised as to mechanical condition. Have it ingrained in my head 6.0 are all problem child's. Are there ANY 6.0s that are exceptions to the bad press? Thanks for info, great review. I should probably just wait for 7.3 to come along. Want to haul good sized slide in camper. Again thank you!
Sounds like a nice truck that you are looking at, In my experience my old 6.0 was nothing but problems so I sold it and started driving the 7.3 in this video. I wouldn’t worry about head studs unless you want to beat on it with a race tune, but they have tons of oil system issues, injectors, ficm, water pump, etc. I’d recommend waiting for a nice 7.3
I love my 6.0 the section got it used I threw a decent amount of money like 4-5k at it and did everything that usually causes problems and I haven’t had any issues
Dang I’ve only ever went 8 months without a 7.3 powerstroke at the longest! Sold mine about 5 months ago looking to get another one in the next few months before winter
@@nick7.3 I definitely have missed them, although this truck I’m getting is a service truck for my business. It’ll still be cool to have one again. I’d love one for my personal vehicle someday. Like a 99 f350 lariat crew cab. Or even a 97 if it’s clean but damn those trucks are getting wild in price in my area.
@@nick7.3 it’s truly wild.. just like the 1st gen Cummins. I bought a 91 last year with 180k mi, had minor rust but overall was solid as heck, from a local elevator. Paid 3500 for it. I drove it for 5 months an did a few things to it an sold it to a guy for 11.5k.
@@samuelw.3992 lol yes during Covid I found a 91 single cab dually 2wd 245k miles at a farm auction in the middle of no where Ohio for 2,800 spent 500$ or so on it and sold for like 7k instantly on fb
Some great info bud, and good for you to research and experience your talking points first hand with these trucks. However, Some may not get quite the results that you have when they are looking to buy a 7.3 because you have a few mods, not many mods but you never mention them. So when you show off your truck as you are now you might want to tell people about some of the mods that you have right there in plain sight and explain the differences between a couple of upgrades compared to bone stock 7.3's. Kind of a big difference IMO, Fyi... Nice Truck.
Awesome video, thanks for the help and advice. Where are you at in Michigan I live in Michigan too. Thinking about buying a 7.3 this week. Have a couple questions. Thanks Logan
Great tips thanks for sharing! Looking to buy my first diesel. Just had to walk away from a 2010 f250 6.4L with 164k miles for $15k but it had smoke and was blowing the oil cap off and the seller said it was running strong was well maintained and passed smog none of which was true so just had to walk even though it had everything else I wanted. Truck was running when I got there and if the seller is hiding that what else is he trying to hide? Going to see an 08 f350 6.4L with 163k miles for $17k on Saturday it doesn't have a front bumper which I would really like but so far this dealer is 10x better than the last one I dealt with. Wish I could find a 7.3L with a manual transmission but my budget won't allow for it and I can't even find one except for $40k+. Will just have to settle for a 6.4L because even the 6.7L has been hard to find.
@@JustAverageJeff I see tons of 200k 11-16 6.7s recently for 25-30k great deal for these trucks, well worth the extra $ for less issues compared to 6.4s
@@nick7.3 could get a 7.3 for that price even an OBS. It’s not easy when you are limited to $10-25k and I found less than a dozen trucks in town all the good ones are out of state.
@@nick7.3 well I can settle for a 6.4L for $15k and have a $600 car payment or I can try and get a 6.7 maybe an older 7.3 for $25k and have a $900 payment not including the $250 a month for insurance. A dump trailer I want to finance is $2-300 a month and getting the 6.7 could be the difference in me being able to afford that trailer or not.
I just got a 99 dually 7.3 and no little on diesels but it was 1k from some old lady it has an oil pan gasket that’s shot and she thought it would cost a fortune to fix how should I go about giving it more power not crazy amounts but a good bump add some tow power and get better mpg and efficiency with this thing? I figure for a grand and the body and Frame are in great shape some rust on bottom of the 3rd style Door. What’s some stuff I should go for and not break the bank but still have a fun functional truck that’s got a little get up and go hear the stock turbos are pretty reliable but as I said I don’t know much on diesels ?
Seen this truck on Marketplace got on RUclips to RUclips the upgrades done to it to see what kind of power it would add and end up being the same truck awesome truck man just thought that was kinda cool lmao
@@nick7.3 lmao I would if I could fell in love with it as soon as I seen it but only window shopping until I can get one this summer if you still got you will probably hear from me then 😂😂
Not a fan of those "lifetime" air filters that can be cleaned and re-oiled. Instead, consider the Donaldson Filter Systems that look like OEM, but have a much larger filter element.
@@tom-mo2pd ehh kind of but probably something simple, likely injectors, hpop, or a few glow plugs are a little worn out. Or worst case compression is slighly low
Absolutely unless you want to replace glow plugs, if it has good compression that is, if low compression then its more than plugs, needs engine rebuild.
@nick7.398 is there a simple way to check the compression or do u just mean check the blowby? What's it cost for a glow plug job? The truck was owned by a guy that ownes a diesel shop for the last 12 yrs. he said he just didn't need it anymore.
@@berniesands6201 idk cost of getting it done I dont take my truck to the shop you can fix urself with under valve cover harness for under 500$ fs, and yes lots of blowby= low compression
Normal oil leaks for age. Id recommend doing what I did to my 2000, pulled engine spent 2k freshening it up and fixing leaks, engine is as clean as new now.
I'm looking at a 2 door extended cab lariat 4x4 manual truck with 88k orginal miles. What's a screaming deal on that? I have the opportunity to buy it for 10k.
@@alexmurray7031 depends on miles and condition, sold this truck for 12.5, had a little rust, oil leaks, and no a/c. Realistically a nice under 200k 7.3 with no issues worth like 15-20k
Thanks I benefited from this a lot I'm thinking of buying one like this, but with one cabin, a double tire It only has 60,000 miles on the 2002 model Do you recommend owning it to work in transportation, approximately 400 miles per day?
Help! I have a question. Just bought a 1997 f350 7.3. When I'm driving with my headlights on truck won't shift to overdrive. While driving 55 if I shut the headlights off it will shift into overdrive. What's going on? All break lights work
Question 1) does it have a 7.3 powerstroke in it? Yes? Alright, you’re already ahead of the curve. Question 2) does it have a ZF5 or a ZF6 in it? Yes? Why don’t you own it already? And I’m a Cummins guy…love a 7.3 though…
@@nick7.3 they’re great trucks…very stout. Had a friend, a farm mechanic, has a 03’ dually with the 7.3 and the ZF6, with a service bed…350K miles on the truck, service beds always been packed full of tools, thing runs across the scales at 15,000 pounds, and it’s always got a skid steer trailer on the back (pulling better than CDL weight), always in the fields to go find a broke tractor, always got farm kids driving it (and they’re hard on shit!)…believe the biggest job he’s ever done to it is replacing the clutch. Another friend had a 250 with the 7.3 and ZF6. Tuner, injectors, FASS pump, pushing around 500 horse. 280,000 miles on the truck…liked to eat hanger bearings but other than that, it was a peach. And again, I’m a mechanical Cummins guy…I wouldn’t say I think a 7.3 would outlive my 12V…but it’s probably the one engine that I’d be afraid to find out…
What to look for when buying a Ford raise the hood and look for a Cummins diesel you don't see a Cummins diesel engine underneath that Ford that says powerstroke on the fenders close to can walk away are you going to have more problems than what you that's my opinion
Or like me .. Buy a new 2000 F350 and keep it for 23 years. Then rebuild the engine after 350k, put in a new 6 speed transmission and rebuild the rear end.... Plugging the block heater in will give you a warm engine start, which will help your engine last a lot longer, less stress on the batteries to start and the truck warms right away ....
@@armygreenfj3924 If you do it yourself like I do, you are going to need 5k minimum for a good kit, heads and block redone. But you can buy a rebuilt for about 8k to 10k and send back your core block and heads. A dealership will charge 20k plus.
Hey, if you are going to be buying a 7.3 powerstroke, buy the F250 it will be cheaper, I know that F350 sounds better, but there are only minimal differences between the F350 and the F250.
Ford doesn't put things on the motor for no good reason, the block heater on a diesel engine is there for a good reason. Plug it in, your 7.3 cast iron block engine will last alot longer
It’s there for if it doesn’t start, or extreme temps like -30. If your compression, fuel system, and glowplugs are in good working order, then plugging it in in 10-40° is a waste of time
Ya I always hate when people say 7.3s won't start in the cold. I have an obs and I've never plugged it in and it always start first crank. These old 7.3s will start in the cold everytime as long as the glow plug system is working correctly.
Nothing, look for nothing. If it runs, buy it. Takes no genius or mechanic to look and inspect a 7.3 so ignore man. Start it, idle for 3 min then pull out $ and drive home
I've got a 2001 ford f2shity 7.tree with over 780 thousand miles all original Michigan truck works construction and plowed every winter of its life..still stroking and purrs like a kitten 😸... 13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made. Been driving it now for 22 years now..wouldn't trade it for a rocket ship
Is 20k for a 2000 F250 worth it with flatbed, completely rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission(both under 1000mi), frame off restoration, basically back to original and bunch of new parts, plus super clean interior??? Love the looks of the truck and would love to daily drive it.
@@ojpimpson3343 sounds like a really good deal...I've seen trucks like that sell for almost 40k...if you find an old 7.tree in good shape there worth some money because there Dinosaurs 🦕 and haven't made them in 20 years! And they last forever...also ezay peasy to work on
@@ojpimpson3343 I paid 4500 for mine 100k miles ago. The 7.3 is a beast. Mine is 4x4 flatbed that I have 4 pressure washers (1 heated) and a gas soft wash set up bolted down on. Daily work driver
I had a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke, F-350. Single rear wheel, 4 door long bed. I had that truck, north of Rock Springs, Wyoming, in -30 degrees with windchill. That truck sat in that for three days. It started, had to crank it a bit, 4 times, it fired up. It was obvious it was cold. When it started it ran like crap for about 5 mins. After that it was fine. I sold that truck, in 2009. Wished I’d a never sold that truck. 6 years old with 176, 000 miles on it. Ran perfectly.
A quick and dirty guide for those reading the comments -
Diesel Fuel in the coolant = Cracked Injector cups
Diesel Fuel in oil / vise versa = bad injector o-rings
Oil in coolant usually means a bad oil cooler as well
If the engine has blowby and it blows the oil cap off the fill tube, that engine is worn out and in need of repair. If it’s just a little smoke, you’ll be fine.
If the overdrive light on the column shifter is flashing, the transmission is toast.
Try and jump the starter solenoid and listen to the engine turn over. If the engine has a consistent sound turning over, it’s healthy. If the engine skips or has a sudden change of sound while cranking, one or multiple cylinders has low compression.
Solid video as always!
Yessir good summary of the vid lol sometimes the blinking overdrive light can be caused by a cheap aftermarket shifter but usually it’s tranny limping
Oh my gosh thank you this, it is extremely helpful
I think one point I’ve found on other threads is that it isn’t likely fuel ends up in the oil via bad injector o rings because the pressures in the oil system are too great comparatively. Would normally go the other way… oil into the fuel. In my case I could open the fuel bowl and see the darker result. Don’t buy the cheapest orings. I’ve found they are just not the right composition and don’t work.. I think buying from diesel orings was the best deal. Cheap cup extractor kit can work but the bolt holding the tap can break from too much force and leave you having to fab an extractor extractor up… lol. Yes I ended up with fuel and maybe a little oil in my coolant from either a cracked cup or cup leak.
Best comment
After driving my 7.3 for 20 years I'm always amazed how it takes the exact amount of rotations of the engine to start on mine and other 7.3s. Yes, you can tell.
Thanks, going to look at a 7.3 in a few hours, needed the basics, much appreciated!
Absolutely man hope your deal works out for you!
How is the purchase going?
Just picked up a 95 F250 4x4 auto with about 200k for 4k with new tires. Already in love with these old diesels.
Sounds like a steal of a deal
2016 near me with 200k for $27k
That’s a steal. I could probably sell mine for $20k where I’m at. It’s a 96 F250 XLT 4x4. It had 189k on it when I bought it in 2016 for $8k. It’s got 260k on it now but I repainted it, put a flatbed on it, and put an iron bull bumper and new tires on it. Wouldn’t sell it any day, never had a problem with it besides the stupid mf that is an e40d
Yep they start in the cold down into the teens and twenties if they are well maintained and it good shape. I rarely wait for the WTS light to go out, I just jump in and crank and it starts every time, with 239K on the ticker. When it's below 40 or colder outside thought I usually cycle it twice so I don't have to crank as long. Thanks for the video, I'll send it to people when they ask me on my channel or on the FB forum. Best Prayers & Blessings. Keith Noneya
I have no idea why people go and say 7.3s can’t start in the cold gotta have them plugged in because my dads 2002 7.3 started right up in -8 degree weather after sitting 2 weeks prior to that my dad always says if everything taken care of and maintained then it’ll start
Exactly my 2002 always fired right up no matter what and my clapped 99 in this video still starts right up anyways
I took a job in Salt Lake City a few years back where I lived for about 3 yrs. We had a handful of very bitter cold winter mornings a degree or 2 below zero and my 7.3 always started with no problems albeit I had a glow plug relay that failed one morning and then it wouldn't start. Picked one up later that day at oreillys and been fine ever since. My block heater has not been used even 1 time. While living there I would run 5w40 in the winter time and 15w40 in the summer. Truck still going strong to this day with 380k on the clock.
Why do that when you can shoot in yourself and spray the other idiot your forcing to crank it over 5 am in the morning trying to get loaded
With ether*
@raymondclass6794 my 7.3 would start with no problems after sitting all night in sub zero temperatures when I used to live in Salt Lake City. No block heater or ether needed. 300k+ mi. At the time.
I've had a 7.3 since 95 and I kept mine plugged in at home in the winter. Much less harmful at startup with a warm engine.
Yes it is easier to start plugged in I never do though unless I own a pos that doesn’t start and I have to plug in
Those block heaters definitely spin the power meter. I had a old 95 F350 after having to keep it plugged in about 2 1/2 months one winter I could have rebuilt the engine for price of power Bill's lol
When I bought mine it came with an air filter about that size, the first thing I did was buy a Banks Power intake to let it breathe better. As long as you keep up on the maintenance these last a very long time. I have 416,000 miles so far and still chugging along.
Mine was a e99 and came with a huge $300 AG filter, 500k miles and still ran perfect
Thank you! I'm new to diesel. I checked out an '01 F350 a couple days ago and I want to get it, but even before I saw this video, I was having some doubts about the fact that the owner started it before I got out of my vehicle. I tend to be over trusting so I'll be sure to check all these out before making any final decisions.
Sketchy check fluids and make sure it’s cold before starting it yourself
Right now I have 360k on my 2002 F-350 7.3. Great truck. Never an issue.
Any powerstroke i have owned/looked at, 7.3s, 6.0s.and 6.4s all have a wire near the passenger side battery that looks like it has a in line fuse, but it is not. Pull it apart in the middle of that plastic connector and you can make contact with the two wires and the motor will crank over without starting. Good way to hear if compression is even across all cylinders or if there is any valve issues.
I live in Wi. And they always started for me no matter how cold it was. I preferred to plug it in once temps dropped below 15° at night, but you would occasionally forget and they would still start, just not as happily.
True but you can also just start the truck and tell if compression etc is good that way too no need to dry crank it
The short time you are turning the engine over at very low RPM while using the leads that they provide and use for such a purpose I don't feel come with a high risk of unnecessary wear to the engine. But it does allow for you to hear if a individual cylinder is getting tired by listening for a change in the speed of engine turning over. Something you wouldn't hear by simply starting it up. All that's going to tell you is it has enough compression in enough cylinders to start.
@@roninwiscon7155 lol or just hit the key and if it starts, then it has enough compression to start
Yep, my 7.3 starts in -40° weather, it’s not her favorite thing in the world but she starts😂 she is starting to struggle more in the cold but I’m not to worried I plan on doing a full rebuild within the next year.
You should definitely check out the ambulance package 7.3 upper radiator hose. It routes the hose behind the serpentine belt.
That’s awesome had no idea that was a thing, would make way more sense than having it in the way when replacing belt
@@nick7.3 Just make sure to loosely zip tie the new hose in place. The ambulance routing comes close to the backside of the serpentine belt.
I’m not as familiar with the 7.3… I am looking at a 99 7.3 manual long that crew cab on Monday it’s got 344,000 miles on it. The transmission was rebuilt last year. I’ve heard good things about this particular diesel and the years that you had described like every vehicle, there’s gonna be notorious issues, so all the info I can get here is super helpful… the one that I will be looking at in pictures looks extremely clean no paint failure even the interior is the best I’ve seen for the year that it is so without physically messing with it I feel good fives but I’m terrified as anybody would, I only have enough money to buy it from a total truck that I had recently
I have a 99 manual trans f350 full throttle performance edition 4x4 and it cold starts no problem 287k miles on it and wheel mine on the daily on my ranch
97 F250 328,000 miles. New Lpop, glow plugs, fuel filter, and relay after sitting for 2 years. It is my daily and starts right up.
Thank you!! Very informative!
I’m was looking for a 96 7.3L Powerstroke until now. Now you got me looking for any from 95 to 03.
TruckHouseLife here in youtube has a 96 7.3L Powerstroke & he lives in Alaska.
His truck has cold started every time until it hit minus 40 degrees. I think he has a block heater & that didn’t help. His buddies help him out by towing it to a garage where it was over 100 hundred degrees. When it thawed out, it started.
I would like to get one to put a flatbed for work & then put a camper on it for family backcountry road trips.
It seems the best time to look for one when is during the winter when it’s very frigid. To see if it pass the “cold start”.
Also, I know nothing about diesel since I never owned one. But I’m willing to learn here on youtube. Learning all the preventative maintenance & what not.
Good luck with your search!
Maybe this is overkill, but you can get infrared cameras for your phone that are like $200. They can be really useful for many things. If you had one like that, you could just casually put it on your phone, and then use it to "look" under the truck and quickly see what is hot and what temp it is.
I had a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke, F-350. Single rear wheel, 4 door long bed. I had that truck, north of Rock Springs, Wyoming, in -30 degrees with windchill. That truck sat in that for three days. It started, had to crank it a bit, 4 times, it fired up. It was obvious it was cold. When it started it ran like crap for about 5 mins. After that it was fine. I sold that truck, in 2009. Wished I’d a never sold that truck. 6 years old with 176, 000 miles on it. Ran perfectly.
@@dalemorrissey6213 damn lot of miles back then, and yea these trucks are beasts for sure
I remember when I was stationed up in Alaska in the mid ‘00’s and guys would always be having competitions about who’s better Ford, Chevy, or Dodge when it comes to trucks and especially diesels!! I’ve always been more of a Ford Man in terms of from 1999-2011. I LOVE the mid 90’s Chevy OBS gas 1500’s with the Z71 and the old small block 350 5.7L V8 engine though too. I wish I could afford an “older” (never thought I’d say ANYTHING from the 90’s or 00’s was considered “old” now…damn I am getting old haha) F-250 7.3L Powerstroke but unfortunately when my fusion got totaled out, they only gave me enough to be able to afford an ‘04 Expedition with the 2 Valve 5.4L V8 (so another words, the good engine) it only had 123,000 on it. It’s in incredible condition!
I literally just love the sound
Great video for the layman. Thank you.
Very helpful video I’m thinking about buying my very first diesel as a summer cruiser an for pulling bigger stuff that my 1500 dodge can’t
I am in the exact same situation. Putting my ram 1500 to work and I need an HD.
What a beautiful truck you have
Thank you for sharing your experience. Looking at a 2003 6.0 F-350 dually. 130k miles. Surprised no blow by, coolant clean, trans fluid normal, head bolts no studs. Has a tuner inside cab to monitor temps & pressures. Looks to have Alliant injectors & controller plus aftermarket fuel pressure module. Engine pretty clean some oil residue. Started right up no hesitation, no smoke? Ran it on city streets & short freeway run. Let truck sit for about 40 minutes, inspected asphalt under truck, no drips. Kinda blown away actually. Dealer asking 19900. Kentucky truck so little rust on frame, body pretty clean. Was expecting the worst, kinda surprised as to mechanical condition. Have it ingrained in my head 6.0 are all problem child's. Are there ANY 6.0s that are exceptions to the bad press? Thanks for info, great review. I should probably just wait for 7.3 to come along. Want to haul good sized slide in camper. Again thank you!
Sounds like a nice truck that you are looking at, In my experience my old 6.0 was nothing but problems so I sold it and started driving the 7.3 in this video. I wouldn’t worry about head studs unless you want to beat on it with a race tune, but they have tons of oil system issues, injectors, ficm, water pump, etc. I’d recommend waiting for a nice 7.3
I love my 6.0 the section got it used I threw a decent amount of money like 4-5k at it and did everything that usually causes problems and I haven’t had any issues
97 obs f-450 superduty fires up like the devil touched it. Take care if it and itll take care if you 🤙🏻
I’m getting a 2001 f550 7.3 next week. My first 7.3 in 10 yrs. I’ve owned 3 of them so far.
Dang I’ve only ever went 8 months without a 7.3 powerstroke at the longest! Sold mine about 5 months ago looking to get another one in the next few months before winter
@@nick7.3 I definitely have missed them, although this truck I’m getting is a service truck for my business. It’ll still be cool to have one again. I’d love one for my personal vehicle someday. Like a 99 f350 lariat crew cab. Or even a 97 if it’s clean but damn those trucks are getting wild in price in my area.
@@samuelw.3992 I’ve been wanting a calypso green 2 tone cclb obs for years but they are legit more expensive than my 6.7 lol
@@nick7.3 it’s truly wild.. just like the 1st gen Cummins. I bought a 91 last year with 180k mi, had minor rust but overall was solid as heck, from a local elevator. Paid 3500 for it. I drove it for 5 months an did a few things to it an sold it to a guy for 11.5k.
@@samuelw.3992 lol yes during Covid I found a 91 single cab dually 2wd 245k miles at a farm auction in the middle of no where Ohio for 2,800 spent 500$ or so on it and sold for like 7k instantly on fb
Oh my gosh this is an amazingly helpful video. Thank you 🙏
Your welcome glad I could help, trying to help people not make the mistakes I did
Some great info bud, and good for you to research and experience your talking points first hand with these trucks. However,
Some may not get quite the results that you have when they are looking to buy a 7.3 because you have a few mods, not many mods but you never mention them. So when you show off your truck as you are now you might want to tell people about some of the mods that you have right there in plain sight and explain the differences between a couple of upgrades compared to bone stock 7.3's. Kind of a big difference IMO, Fyi...
Nice Truck.
Check the valley of death under the fuel bowl for oil or fuel it builds up there if there's a leak after driving
The 7.3 Liter is the best. That’s the only PowerStroke I will buy
Hey man thank you so much for this excellent info 🎉 really helped
Awesome video, thanks for the help and advice. Where are you at in Michigan I live in Michigan too. Thinking about buying a 7.3 this week. Have a couple questions.
Thanks Logan
I’m in southeast Michigan and thanks for feedback!
Great tips thanks for sharing! Looking to buy my first diesel. Just had to walk away from a 2010 f250 6.4L with 164k miles for $15k but it had smoke and was blowing the oil cap off and the seller said it was running strong was well maintained and passed smog none of which was true so just had to walk even though it had everything else I wanted. Truck was running when I got there and if the seller is hiding that what else is he trying to hide? Going to see an 08 f350 6.4L with 163k miles for $17k on Saturday it doesn't have a front bumper which I would really like but so far this dealer is 10x better than the last one I dealt with. Wish I could find a 7.3L with a manual transmission but my budget won't allow for it and I can't even find one except for $40k+. Will just have to settle for a 6.4L because even the 6.7L has been hard to find.
@@JustAverageJeff I see tons of 200k 11-16 6.7s recently for 25-30k great deal for these trucks, well worth the extra $ for less issues compared to 6.4s
@@nick7.3 could get a 7.3 for that price even an OBS. It’s not easy when you are limited to $10-25k and I found less than a dozen trucks in town all the good ones are out of state.
@@JustAverageJeff yea… but for that price ur ether buying a nice newer truck, or an old obs
@@nick7.3 well I can settle for a 6.4L for $15k and have a $600 car payment or I can try and get a 6.7 maybe an older 7.3 for $25k and have a $900 payment not including the $250 a month for insurance. A dump trailer I want to finance is $2-300 a month and getting the 6.7 could be the difference in me being able to afford that trailer or not.
Tryna to pick up this 2001 f350 7.3 for 3.5k, trying to get it for 3k or lower. Got the gooseneck in the back already, just need a bed ! 250 on dash
Sounds like a steal
I just got a 99 dually 7.3 and no little on diesels but it was 1k from some old lady it has an oil pan gasket that’s shot and she thought it would cost a fortune to fix how should I go about giving it more power not crazy amounts but a good bump add some tow power and get better mpg and efficiency with this thing? I figure for a grand and the body and Frame are in great shape some rust on bottom of the 3rd style Door. What’s some stuff I should go for and not break the bank but still have a fun functional truck that’s got a little get up and go hear the stock turbos are pretty reliable but as I said I don’t know much on diesels ?
Seen this truck on Marketplace got on RUclips to RUclips the upgrades done to it to see what kind of power it would add and end up being the same truck awesome truck man just thought that was kinda cool lmao
Come get her lol runs strong
@@nick7.3 lmao I would if I could fell in love with it as soon as I seen it but only window shopping until I can get one this summer if you still got you will probably hear from me then 😂😂
Not a fan of those "lifetime" air filters that can be cleaned and re-oiled. Instead, consider the Donaldson Filter Systems that look like OEM, but have a much larger filter element.
@@jcreeker5581 tbh its just an air filter not that serious lol
Appreciate it my guy
Planning to go see one, the guy said in the cold he has to warm the plugs twice for it to start, is that a red flag ?
@@tom-mo2pd ehh kind of but probably something simple, likely injectors, hpop, or a few glow plugs are a little worn out. Or worst case compression is slighly low
Great video man thanks
Appreciate it! Glad you enjoyed
Great video.
Thank you glad you enjoyed!
Great Video. Thank you
Mr Nick . Are your fromt shocks orientated properly?
Yes they are they only go on 1 way
yes, a stuck open injector will fill ur sump with diesel or hydrolock. i got an old diesel that tends to do this 😛
So I'm looking at one where the guy said it has to be plugged in or a spray of ether. Should I run?
Absolutely unless you want to replace glow plugs, if it has good compression that is, if low compression then its more than plugs, needs engine rebuild.
@nick7.398 is there a simple way to check the compression or do u just mean check the blowby? What's it cost for a glow plug job? The truck was owned by a guy that ownes a diesel shop for the last 12 yrs. he said he just didn't need it anymore.
@@berniesands6201 idk cost of getting it done I dont take my truck to the shop you can fix urself with under valve cover harness for under 500$ fs, and yes lots of blowby= low compression
@nick7.398 alright thanks, I didn't realize it was that simple. I thought it was more along the lines of doing injectors or Jake brakes.
@@berniesands6201 7.3s don’t have jake brakes atleast not factory, bad injectors would be smoking issues/running rough
418xxx on my late 99, no blow by or diesel in oil. It just has oil all over the sides of the engine.
Normal oil leaks for age. Id recommend doing what I did to my 2000, pulled engine spent 2k freshening it up and fixing leaks, engine is as clean as new now.
What headlamps are those? Look good
@@benjaminheinemann5595 black 05-07 ones off amazon or ebay same difference
I'm looking at a 2 door extended cab lariat 4x4 manual truck with 88k orginal miles. What's a screaming deal on that? I have the opportunity to buy it for 10k.
Sounds good to me 88k is very rare
@nick7.398 That's what I was thinking. Super clean truck.
how much would something like this cost? what would you sell it for?
@@alexmurray7031 depends on miles and condition, sold this truck for 12.5, had a little rust, oil leaks, and no a/c. Realistically a nice under 200k 7.3 with no issues worth like 15-20k
Thanks I benefited from this a lot I'm thinking of buying one like this, but with one cabin, a double tire It only has 60,000 miles on the 2002 model Do you recommend owning it to work in transportation, approximately 400 miles per day?
For sure man that 60k miles is basically brand new for a 7.3 lots of them are running good with over 300,000 now days
@@nick7.3 421,000 miles on my f250 7.3 4x4 flatbed work truck. Still running strong
Year 2000
Your allowed tinted windshield’s in Michigan?
No it’s illegal I just don’t care
Help! I have a question. Just bought a 1997 f350 7.3. When I'm driving with my headlights on truck won't shift to overdrive. While driving 55 if I shut the headlights off it will shift into overdrive. What's going on? All break lights work
I'm curious as to what made you say...."hmm i wonder if it works if I turn the headlights off" lol
This comment may have convinced me to look for a 02
How do you clean or wash it with out messing it up
@@eddytmz7074 soft brush or microfiber tower, pressure wash first, and 2 bucket method
How long should you let glow plugs warm up?
@@everydaylife2843 until wait to start light goes away
@@nick7.3 thats what I thought, I never owned one so I'm trying to learn everything I can. I really appreciate it!!
What size lift and tires on Ole Red?
@@JasonA-t5s 2.5” level on 35x12.50 toyo open country
What’s a good price for one of theses with like 200 to 300k miles on it
@@happy.harvick2944 really depends on condition, trim level, and whats been done to it
Question 1) does it have a 7.3 powerstroke in it? Yes? Alright, you’re already ahead of the curve.
Question 2) does it have a ZF5 or a ZF6 in it? Yes? Why don’t you own it already?
And I’m a Cummins guy…love a 7.3 though…
I sold this truck about a year ago now and got a 6.7 ford, few months ago I got another 7.3 this one with the zf6!
@@nick7.3 they’re great trucks…very stout. Had a friend, a farm mechanic, has a 03’ dually with the 7.3 and the ZF6, with a service bed…350K miles on the truck, service beds always been packed full of tools, thing runs across the scales at 15,000 pounds, and it’s always got a skid steer trailer on the back (pulling better than CDL weight), always in the fields to go find a broke tractor, always got farm kids driving it (and they’re hard on shit!)…believe the biggest job he’s ever done to it is replacing the clutch.
Another friend had a 250 with the 7.3 and ZF6. Tuner, injectors, FASS pump, pushing around 500 horse. 280,000 miles on the truck…liked to eat hanger bearings but other than that, it was a peach.
And again, I’m a mechanical Cummins guy…I wouldn’t say I think a 7.3 would outlive my 12V…but it’s probably the one engine that I’d be afraid to find out…
I probably missed this, but what year was it, and did you need spacers for those rims?
Great video though, thanks for the advice man
It’s a 99 I ran no spacers for almost a year but eventually got tired of the rubbing when making sharp turns so I got 2” spacers
Great video...thanks
Your very welcome and thank you for your feedback!
What to look for when buying a Ford raise the hood and look for a Cummins diesel you don't see a Cummins diesel engine underneath that Ford that says powerstroke on the fenders close to can walk away are you going to have more problems than what you that's my opinion
Lol 7.3s are great engines. Cummins swaps are 99% of the time done in a hack job fashion and will fail in many areas
Thank you
What year is the truck you are showing now?
What? The one in this video is a 1999 the one I have now is a 2000 7.3 and I currently also have a 2013 6.7
What is oil?
Where you from in Michigan bro? Lansing area here. Buying my first diesel today.
Outskirts of Detroit and good luck with the truck!
What is the price u paid for yours
I have a 02 f250 7.3 with 293k and she start up just like ur
Good, urs was probably taken good care of! Could prolly get another 50-150k out of it before rebuild easily
@@nick7.350k-100k from 293k before rebuilt ?? man then 7.3s taken care of last easily about 500,000 miles
Is it worth buying one that needs a new hpop?
Depends on price miles condition etc and your taking a risk buying not running because it could be not the hpop thats the issue
I have a 89 7.3 no turbo can I put one on
Yes but won’t make it the same as a powerstroke
What tired on the blue one in the thumbnail?
I believe toyos
What size tires are those?
35x12.50r20
Or like me .. Buy a new 2000 F350 and keep it for 23 years. Then rebuild the engine after 350k, put in a new 6 speed transmission and rebuild the rear end.... Plugging the block heater in will give you a warm engine start, which will help your engine last a lot longer, less stress on the batteries to start and the truck warms right away ....
How much did it cost to rebuild the 7.3?
1.2 million on my 2005 dodge Cummins. Cat filters and a good lift pump.
@@armygreenfj3924 If you do it yourself like I do, you are going to need 5k minimum for a good kit, heads and block redone. But you can buy a rebuilt for about 8k to 10k and send back your core block and heads. A dealership will charge 20k plus.
Hey, if you are going to be buying a 7.3 powerstroke, buy the F250 it will be cheaper, I know that F350 sounds better, but there are only minimal differences between the F350 and the F250.
@@MrIStartedTheFire tbh dont think theres a price difference
@@MrIStartedTheFire unless referring to an obs, in that case yes price difference but also big difference in the front axle
About to get one for 2500 only problem is the body ugly asf he say going look at it soon if the motor past these test ima buy it i think.
#1 thing to look for is a store near u with ether. #2 is a mechanic
@@jackbarry9469 clown 💀😂
Is that the stock valence ?
08-10 stock valence
I want one but don’t need one
Oh trust me, you need one
How many mpg do u get with a 7.3
12 mpg
Coolant in the def
Ford doesn't put things on the motor for no good reason, the block heater on a diesel engine is there for a good reason. Plug it in, your 7.3 cast iron block engine will last alot longer
It’s there for if it doesn’t start, or extreme temps like -30. If your compression, fuel system, and glowplugs are in good working order, then plugging it in in 10-40° is a waste of time
Ask them how many times they had to replace the CSPS, and IPR…….
@@jonaslafonte9070 knock on wood ive been driving/owning 7.3s for 5 years never replaced ether of those ever
TY
My 2002 F-Truck had 118K on the odo...loads more in her...
Would you buy a 7.3L f-250 that need a new high pressure oil pump for $8,000.00?
That depends on miles, trim, condition, as well as your area. Also does it start at all?
Thanks for the info. Looking at a 91...haha
'scriber #600
Thank you! 7.3 idi in that 91’ is even simpler than the psd engines
@@nick7.3 Right on 👍🏻
Have you ever had a computer problem with a 7.3
@@JDavidVeenstra no
Ya I always hate when people say 7.3s won't start in the cold. I have an obs and I've never plugged it in and it always start first crank. These old 7.3s will start in the cold everytime as long as the glow plug system is working correctly.
That most of the time yes also needs hood injectors hpop and compression too but mainly glowplugs are the common issue
Haters gone keep hating buts fs way roped off then a 6.0 anyway 😈😈😈
W
Do you have a truck Instagram to follow?
I got some truck pics on my normal insta it’s @nick.leicht
Wanna sell it?
Already did, got a 2000 single cab stick shift now
First!
Nice hot air intake 🤣
Its cold not hot
Go back to factory 😂
don't give gas to a diesel 😉
Nothing, look for nothing. If it runs, buy it. Takes no genius or mechanic to look and inspect a 7.3 so ignore man. Start it, idle for 3 min then pull out $ and drive home
@@Gilmore304 really a stupid idea lol.
What to look for, a Toyota dealership
Lmao Toyota is a joke compared to a 3/4 ford powerstroke
I've got a 2001 ford f2shity 7.tree with over 780 thousand miles all original Michigan truck works construction and plowed every winter of its life..still stroking and purrs like a kitten 😸... 13 letter shitspreader INTERNATIONAL best diesel ever made. Been driving it now for 22 years now..wouldn't trade it for a rocket ship
That's Awesome! I'm at 421,000 on 2000 f250 4x4.
Is 20k for a 2000 F250 worth it with flatbed, completely rebuilt engine, rebuilt transmission(both under 1000mi), frame off restoration, basically back to original and bunch of new parts, plus super clean interior???
Love the looks of the truck and would love to daily drive it.
@@ojpimpson3343 sounds like a really good deal...I've seen trucks like that sell for almost 40k...if you find an old 7.tree in good shape there worth some money because there Dinosaurs 🦕 and haven't made them in 20 years! And they last forever...also ezay peasy to work on
@@ojpimpson3343 I paid 4500 for mine 100k miles ago. The 7.3 is a beast. Mine is 4x4 flatbed that I have 4 pressure washers (1 heated) and a gas soft wash set up bolted down on. Daily work driver
@@mattvanatti9531 shop in Houston sells 7.3s rebuilt for $3500
I had a 2000 7.3 Powerstroke, F-350. Single rear wheel, 4 door long bed. I had that truck, north of Rock Springs, Wyoming, in -30 degrees with windchill. That truck sat in that for three days. It started, had to crank it a bit, 4 times, it fired up. It was obvious it was cold. When it started it ran like crap for about 5 mins. After that it was fine. I sold that truck, in 2009. Wished I’d a never sold that truck. 6 years old with 176, 000 miles on it. Ran perfectly.