Updated Waste Oil Heater Drip Feed Ver.2.2 Detailed January 19, 2018
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 18 янв 2018
- In this video you will have details on this waste oil heater. Anything I may have missed please ask and I will happily try to answer. thanks for watching and PLEASE, LIKE, SHARE, and COMMENT, and please please please SUBSCRIBE!
/ @randysdiy2102
Thanks to Gerry's DIY channel for the ideas that got this build started, the burner I made was based off of his original burner idea.
For Burner details and measurements see my other video's here is a direct link.
• Waste Oil Vortex Burne...
smoke output video
• Waste Oil Burner Smoke...
Ver. 2.2 changes --- Repaired the oil feed sight tee and added 3, 3 inch heat exchanger tubes.
If you choose to build one of these heaters just know that you need to be very careful and I will not assume any responsibility for anything bad that happens.
Have you by chance ever seen an old army immersion heater? Similar tech... well done to re-purpose waste material sir...
No I haven't but I've heard several people comment on my heater that it's much like the old army heater
Thanks
What are the dangers? Other than the fact you're playing with fire IDK. Was planning on making a small stove for my van that could burn wood and used veggie oil.
Well like you said of course you're playing with burning a flammable substance so there's always danger involved. I guess some of the dangers that have been discussed on this channel are first of all in a van you could burn all the oxygen out or get carbon monoxide poisoning, other than that it's hard to regulate the flow of oil into the burner if the flow starts getting too fast you could overheat it or actually have a spill which would end up burning up your van. Those are probably the two most dangerous things I can think of.
Anything that undermines government/utility companies screwing us as hard as they can, gets a thumbs-up from me.
The regulations are in place to reduce the human species carbon footprint. Carbon is a greenhouse gas and we have doubled the amount in the atmosphere.
@@johnsalisbury3768 You are well with the government script, aren't you? There are just as many scientists who claim carbon is a good thing because NOTHING on earth can grow WITHOUT IT. I am absolutely NOT sold on "carbon footprints" because it's known liars that created this general belief.
@@johnsalisbury3768 I gave a strong argument against your government spiel but yt wont allow it.
@johnsalisbury3768 lol, carbon hasn't increased at all, all life is carbon based and just about everything else. We need it to be alive and it is at an optimum level for life on earth, the government convincing people that we need to reduce carbon and tax it is just taxing us for being alive and surviving...it's pure evil, this whole communist adjenda is sick and evil! Government needs to get out of our lives!!!
While in the Marine Corps we used a heater similar to yours but much smaller if you use copper instead of pex you could get rid of the shield protecting the pex, by doing that the heat would warm the oil giving a smoother more controllable even flow through the drip system. Just an idea but if it's not broken don't fix it. I'm glad you include your son in these projects, he will always remember those projects with his dad.
Pretty cool kinda brings back memories from the early 1960's my dad built something similar but dad built a sand pot that sat in the bottom and his copper line with the fittings he made was feeding fuel oil from one of them big 500gal. Fuel oil tanks and where the line went into the side of the homemade heater he had it setup to drip the fuel oil into the center of the sand pot and you could adjust the amount of fuel oil drip to make the flame larger or smaller. Of course there were different types of valves and fittings. I guess i had to be around 7 or 8 yrs. Old then i don't remember the whole setup to a tee but thats what heated are cabin back in them days and i remember it was very warm in the winter. Skipping thru some videos and seeing what you built sorta brought back some memories..
That one you built is pretty cool nice job..
Thanks for making this video. A former coworker and good friend had talked about a oil drip heater that he used while working in an old city workshop. thanks for the details, I plan on trying this out in the near future.
I love that you had so much success without a forced draft fan. This is truly incredible!
Thanks for the comment ☺️
Awesome video. Great that you had your son helping you. Skills like that are much more valuable than any he'll learn in college and the memories of doing it with his dad are priceless.
Agreed 💯 percent
The most important part of it all. You and your son built it together. Create, learn, bond. :)
Thanks Randy. Between you and Gerry's DIY, iv built one myself. Had it burning on the weekend. Just adding some finishing touches and I'll be posting a video. I love RUclips, learning is life!
Great
twenty years ago my 6 inch pipe plugged with ash, cinders and creosote, coming out of my wood furnace. It came out of the stove, did a 90, then another up to the chimney hole, then a third 90 at the chimney. I revamped it using two 45's instead. Hasn't plugged since. nice access to your stove's internals, and nice h eat capture. getting ideas to put oil to a different wood stove than the furnace mentioned
Your son is getting a great education. Love it when i see a father and son working together. 👍
I agree
Thank you and all these commenters for the great information
After checking out several designs, I like your burner design the best, especially the safety feature, makes total sense. Thanks for posting.
Thanks 👍
I love to watch TALENT. You and your son can be both proud and 'warm'! Sonny (CT)
Thank you
Love the Rush in the background
Looks like a great stove . Free heat !
Hi. Building my own waste oil burner from a small stove. Im definitely going for the pan setup u have. Great ideas keep them coming
Add a heatilator to the chimney pipe, it will reduce your chimney temp and scavange the heat out of the chimney to blow in to the shop, also allowing you to reduce your fuel usage
Winter is getting colder. I need to make one of these. About time to use my everlast welder to make one.
Get your welder out of the box! I didn't think these would work well either. But, they do fine with smaller jobs, and are very portable.
I love the video..very well explained..unlike others that are showing us 2 hours of welding and then you have to figure out how it's built yourself..again thanks for a great video..
Glad you enjoyed it.
We had built one similar but used a 75 lb propane tank that worked great. My heat exchangers went in muti directions so not to heat in one area. I like the air hat ! I will use that in my next shop.
I really like how simple you kept it and the fact that a girl with some metal shop skills could make. Gives the DYL a whole new meaning as the heat will draw any oil fumes a way out and not in the building. I made a wood burner on a similar style way and the wood loaded from the side but up near the top of a oil line pipe pig which is quarter inch thick steel and stood four feet tall so real long branches or rounds could fit in it. shut down tight with the box full would hold a fire twenty plus hours. My air intake was at near the bottom above the ash and a clamming shovel would slide in to clean the trash. My shop was forty by sixty and some side rooms and it would be minus thirty outside (alaska) and in my shop was all cement so no burnables. I watched it like a hawk for about three or more months but by opening the flew up and setting the well casing chimney afire and the flames would go way up in the air if I didn't keep a eye on the creosote cause most my wood was sopping wet and that makes creosote bad but totally safe! I put wood in it in the morning and then left it alone and if I had the big maid door you drove rigs in was open for a good deal of time then I would have to fill it again at night but it burnt cottonwood and birch mix or some spruce green trees as I never had much to work with that first winter. The next year I bought five cords and used most of it every year but it was dryer and held better. Where the draft was I would smear some dirty grease rag with diesel and stick it in the draft and then use the torch or some propane heater torch and it would start that wood without kindling in minutes cause the draft was good and my chimney was twenty one foot stick (used one whole piece) I built it about close to twenty years ago and it is still working and still the same pieces
Morgan Adair: do you have any pictures or videos of that heating system? I would really like to see that in action.
@@loyalistperson8193 I do not but can describe it to a detail. The stove body was made of the oil pipeline casing. I got ahold of a short section they cut out cause of their tight regs. I was corroded on the inside but the grinding wheel revealed it was real sound metal... somewheres around one quarter inch and three eights inch thick and FREE. I used a cut off wheel on the doors and it was worth it cause its thick but it holds heat really well. I bought the metal for the top and bottom and cut it about a half inch larger to apply wrap if I used water heating system. I did have pictures for a long time but after I got hurt, I lost it to a person who kinda got that whole ball rolling in first place. Ugly story behind it. Its just like I explained it above for the most part. I had sand in the bottom till it built its own base of coals/ash and made my door quite a ways up so I could drop in just about anything that would burn. It was thick enough that you could of (I didn't) burnt tires in it cause it was so thick that it didn't warp but I wanted head space so smoke didn't come rolling out of it. I used thick pipe for the drafts and all the top piece for the chimney pipe to slide over and put a damper in it there. eight inch metalbestos chimney pipe you get at any fireplace store since I built big (it weighed a lot) and the drafts was from the metal shop cut offs. Same with the legs (three work best) and I found after using it, I never used the damper in the chimney. I knew I had to spend money for pipe for the stack but then found some damaged in freight deal (no warranty) and I wanted it to clear my pitched roof. It was the best stove I have ever had and I have had one of those rightway stoves and they are good but no match for this monster. I did wrap copper pipe and used common sense on height and size so use your if you do it. It did good heating water and worked like the model t engine and it circulated on ts own cause thats what water does but no restrictions or it will blow up like a still (made one of those too for a lark) That water tank was made for wood stoves and was all regular pipe made for water (steel) I wired thermostats in it to turn on fans and made my own vents. The size was three feet diameter, and four feet tall so I could do what I wanted. I am a mechanic welder (was, cripple now) so putting my ideas together wasn't a problem and my insurance didn't ask for brand. I used it up till I lost the place but that was three and a half years of the cleanest nice heat and I burnt anything cause of the long chimney pipe. I like the fact that if limbs fell out of tree then if they fit, they burnt. It is something I built, not buy so ask if any other questions
Just needs some BBQ black spray paint, and good to go. Thanks for sharing!
Very nice,,I used a old file cabinet over my flue pipe with a squirrel cage fan at the top blowing heated air down, works great, good to see men using their brains like this.
Sounds like a great idea. Thanks
That's good. My dad was a cook in the army. Their field camp even ran on s deisel drip he told me. Said it was so hot..
I never really understood it...I do now!
Thx
@@seamanjive I have a military diesel heater. Gotta go get it fired up this week :-)
That's awesome!! This is great inspiration for me to build one of these!
If you do be careful, they are dangerous in many way s
Nice and simple design. Thanks for the idea. I may try to make something similar which includes water heating.
Keep me posted
Got a similar project on the go for a workshop heater, 30lb propane tank, with choke and throttle handles, 4" exhaust, and 5x 3" exchanger pipes pointing in a downward fan out pattern. Keep the heat flowing to the floor. Ill post a video once its got a tempgun on it but I have you to thank for alot of the ideas around using waste oil!
I'm glad you could use some of the ideas, just be careful when burning oil. I never get out of site when using it
Thanks for the amount of info you gave us. Good to know that the heat exchanges work and the size of the shop was helpful also.
First time I have seen your video and have to say that was very nice and easy set up. Good job on the video no b.s. just straight to the point
Thanks
I really enjoyed your old Ned Shned, prank calls.
Lol, didn't know, was it in the background of the video?
He does sound like him
Watching from the UK 🇬🇧. Good job.
Thanks 👍
Thankyou I'm making one for the next winter!
A father teaching avson to think! Experiment, prototype, real life learning - words unknown to so many :( Great job man, and not just on the heater!
Thanks today we set up a ground blind and plan on doing a little deer hunting.
If you leave the gate valve set, and turn the oil of with the ball valve, you probably won't need to change it all that often. For quicker shut off, place a ball valve above the gate valve and that will help to simplify things.
Excellent ideas. I need to use my everlast welder to make a heater. Its getting pretty cold this year.
Just found this build and it’s excellent, thanks for sharing I have a 100 gallon propane tank and this build is now starting tomorrow! Of course I wait until winter lol thanks again!
Glad it helped
nice work clint!(and helper)
+Don Smith thanks for the reply.
You could harness a lot of heat by running the exhaust pipe inside a larger pipe and capturing the heat and venting it out like a central heat system.
I think this design is great. I appreciate how you were clever and made most of it from what looks like a gas fired water heater. I know you said it was a water heater, but it looks like you used the center flue pipe from the original water heater for your heat exchanger, and maybe for part of your burner assembly too. And it looks like the bottom part of your burner assembly is the bottom pan for the gas burner in the original WH. Pretty cool. Doesn't cost thousands of dollars, and doesn't require any electricity or compressed air. Thanks for sharing, very cool stuff.
Thanks
Any form to burn waste oil is brilliant. Great video thanks GREETINGS from Dublin Ireland bless you both.
Your welcome and thanks
That's a really good design. I really like the idea of the 90 degree corners to create a vortex, and the safety of the flame self-extinguishing in case of a problem with the oil feed. The heat exchangers are a top idea. I'm sure you could use this to heat water and other uses as well.
If you welded an 'edge' around the tank door and maybe some heatproof tape it would probably seal a little better and improve the draw as well.
Yes sir the door has been fixed and I have also added more heat exchanger tubes will be making a video soon. Thanks
Great idea. Looks like it works well for you. The air quench I don't will work. Burner door would provide a tone of air.
I burn firewood and have as much as I need, but every winter I come to videos like this and consider making one for the shop. Mountain folks all know that used motor oil has twice as many uses as duct tape, and so folks spill a bit on their dry kindling to make a fire starter that will light with one match and burn better and longer than Duraflame. I love the ingenuity of your rig! We all burn oil every time we drive, and personally I think keeping warm is an even more important use than driving. Cheers bud!
Thanks
Nice work Randy
Great work!
For the door warping issue, put some flat bar along the perimeter of the door to give it more rigidity...and it will ensure you don’t vent too much air in from there...it may impede your vortex with turbulence, reducing its efficiency...
I am a professional welder and build wood stoves on the side. Small ones, larger ones...some out of raw steel fabricated by scratch and also out of propane tanks too. I’ve never built a oil heater before, but I really like this design...i think for me, instead of the water heater I’m going to build it out of a a 3/16 wall pipe, 60” tall. Probably 15” pipe, and I’ll cap off the top and bottom. Thanks for the idea 👍🏻 I subscribed to your channel.
Thanks good luck
It is done in the new video. Thanks
Great work, I feel if you put a fire rope seal on the burn door , it would increase the draft through the bottom, and not try to suck air in via the gap in the burn door,
Thanks, defiantly in my too do plans. Never enough time in the day.
Nice video Thanks. Another thumbs up for Rush Freewill playing the background.
Thanks
That is soooo awesome.
If the pex line were replaced with a copper tube it would pre-heat the oil before it enters the burn chamber increasing the burn efficiency. More heat using less fuel and cleaner emissions. Likewise the squirrel fan distance from the air intake.
Weld a piece of 1/4 inch round stock to your door all the way around and a piece to the edge of the door jam on the tank. That should make it more stable
I do used oil burning for my boilers but with a way more advanced method and system. I use modified fuel oil burners plus digital logic control to get a hot clean burn.
The trick is to modify the oil burner to have a preheater device just ahead of the nozzle to preheat the oil to ~ 300 350F to get its viscosity thin enough to spray like fuel oil/diesel fuel.
The rest is just using a PID controller and a Teco PLR unit to keep that heater temp stable and to monitor everything so that things function as needed when needed when there is call for heat.
The logic steps are simple.
1: Call for heat via a high/low input initiates the process.
2: PLR unit send power to PID units power circuit to get the preheater to warm up.
3: PID tells PLR that heater is below operating temp.
4: PLR waits until PID says it is hot enough, ~ 15 - 25F below PID set temp, via PID secondary "Low Limit Alarm" output function.
5: PID says heater us up to temp. (Low Limit Alarm off)
6: PLR turns burner motor on thus igniting burner.
7: PLR watches flame detect CAD cell voltage to make sure it lit and stays lit and is burning properly.
8: PLR also monitors burner feed line pressure to make sure filter is not clogged.
9: PID keeps oil at operating temp until burn cycle is done or preheater drops below 'Alarm setting'.
When working properly the oil is fully pyrolyzed to make a hot clean flame that has no smoke and only leaves behind a light grey/white ash that amounts ot maybe 1 - 2 gallons of talcum powder like dust per ~ 1000 gallons of oil burnt.
After a bit of refining to get the PID/PLR and overall logic functions pinned down the first year I have ran several of these setup now for going on 7 years and ~ 16,000 gallons of used oil burnt to run the boilers that heat my house and workshop and now brothers whole place to!
Are you using a Beckett gun-style burner with a Craig Kepner heater block ?
@@jesseparris6507 No clue what a craig kepner block is. Designed my own system from scratch using surplus materials and components I had laying around.
Where is the vid or detailed plans?
@@myrond3588 Just so you know, Eric Klat and I started this whole alternative wmo and wvo gun-style burner movement (for residential) back in 2000. We experimented with all types of pre-heaters and manual switches until we got to the advanced pre-heater block, PID, waste oil metering pump and SSR we use today in a ready-adaptable gun-style burner like the Beckett. (Our stuff was way more advanced than the commercial waste oil burners at the time with those set snap temp switches.
I have a youtube forum, altfuelfurnace that was started back in 2001. The guy I mentioned before, Craig Kepner, a member of the forum, was able to start a business of supplying the complete heater block (with PID, heating element, syphon nozzle and temp sensor). ckburnersdotcom.
@@jesseparris6507 Sounds like a solid system. I haven't checked it out yet as my heating requirements are small here in Ok but I do have access to a large volume of 150wt synthetic. Any experience with using higher vis oil like that?
perfect to use old fish and chip shop oil or old deep fry oil from local resturants randy, my ol mate here in australia uses it to make bio diesel so i cant see why it wouldnt work and the smell of it would make you hungry cheers mate
good tunes and warmth...
I made one years ago, there is a major problem if you keep the oil tank in the same room and especially above in the heat flow.. the oil will heat up and thin so more will pass through the gate valve so if you don't continually monitor the flow it will over-run. OK so you've built in a method so it 'drowns' itself and cuts off the air but what a mess, been there and done that. So, I'd advise moving your oil tank somewhere it will not be affected by large increases in temperature and use a metal one, not plastic, also use metal delivery pipes from the tank to the burner. I put a copper coil inside mine at the top that easily powered 6 room radiators. With your unit you could feed hot water from it into a fan assisted wall mounted shop heater making it far more efficient.
My wood stove has 3 -3" pipes running through it like yours. Difference between mine and yours is I have my blower connected to a pipe directly to my heat exchanger pipes - much more efficient. so all air from blower goes directly through the tubes unlike yours where you have the blower a couple of feet away. without my blower going, the tubes get red hot. With blower on brings so much more heat from the stove into the room.
Great video. And very informative
I'm a former railroad worker,.I remember when the railroad change the heaters in the caboose from coal to oil/diesel. We used a drip feed! Approx, every 15 seconds one drop of oil would drip into the burner pan. You can slow that flow down.
Awesome
Thanks, gave me ideas fir my own wood stove that is kick ass and now will add a oil drip option. The best thing for me is that I have been looking for a thick pipe for my flue and never found so jury rigged stove piping ...now I have the solution "fire extinguisher. ..brilliant and I have a few around Blessings
Ps, please replace the plastic with copper!! And you may consider putting the pips at an angle (15 to 30 degrees works best) for natural convection so no need for fan (energy) and you can still use a fan.. also you're loosing lots of heat which could be captured off the exhaust pipe. I'm working on a spiral three smaller piping into one at the end at a 15 degree angle ...
Had a huge shop in Oklahoma and I ran 30 ft of exhaust at 20 degrees away from the wall before going into ceramic flue to existing chimney and wow huge difference.
I'm going to experiment with different "jets" to get hotter flair (lass pollution, cleaner burn and get back to ya
Again thanks and Blessings
Thanks
Reminds me of the heaters we used in the Army in Korea, early 70's. Basically a 55 gallon barrel with a drip carb at the base, just hung a jerry can of diesel on the side ,primed it , set the drip, open door drop in lit piece of paper. Couple of drawbacks though (as personally done), if the carb sticks fuel will pool in the bottom, which I unfortunately noticed as I tossed in the lit paper, oops, got cherry red almost burnt the shop down. The other is, if the heater is still hot DO NOT LIGHT until it cools down. Mine ran out of fuel so I put on another jerry can primed it and opened the door and lit, the fuel started smoking as I tossed in the lit paper....BOOM ! blew black soot all over my face and blew off smokestack...surprise. Funny, I can find no images of these heaters online.
Cool.
LOVE the background music to
Excellent stove... will be building something similar soon to keep warm in my shop
Be careful
I like your used oil heater.
Great video. Thank you for sharing this with us.
Also, turn your radio off in the shop when making videos. Not only will RUclips give you a channel strike for copyright violation, but the owner of the music can make life miserable.
I think I would use a 45 and move the line away from the heater, and replace the Plex with copper.
Great heater. Thinking of building one for my shop
I have been thinking about replacing the PEX line with copper just so that I could wrap it around the heat chamber and thin the oil down and preheat it. But as far as the pex melting causing a problem, the top of the tank really doesn't get that hot at the highest maybe 400° and then the PEX line is about 10 inches away from the tank so it really doesn't get that hot. Good luck with your build just be very careful oil is extremely dangerous to burn. Thanks👍
Looks great 👍 even looks easy to build also
Thank You
Great stove! Thanks for the information. A 420 lb. upright propane tank would work awesome for this type of stove. I may have to look into that!
Thanks I'm working on a new video with several modifications I have done to it. Subscribe and it will notify you when the video is uploaded
Nice design. One suggestion to provide an overflow shutoff, you could bring a tube out of the bottom pan into an external vertical tube with a float switch connected to an electronic shutoff valve at the tank outlet. If the fire goes out, it would overflow the burn pan, and fill the vertical tube with the float switch, which would close the electronic shutoff valve. Might have to think about how to make it work during a power outage. This could also be done completely mechanically, which would solve the power outage problem, but might be a little more finicky.
Work Works I get what you’re saying but how does the fire go out if it’s still being fueled
Great idea
Place the heat exchanger tube at an angle, heat rinses this will increase the efficiency.
First time seeing sometn' like this...very impressive my friend..& yes you're son will always remember this with you...thanks for sharing God Bless!!🙂🙂👍
Thanks
thanks for the share!!!! great video
That's a great job and a great project to do with your son! I'm sure that will stay with him for life and is worth more than you can imagine.
I have a couple questions and suggestions if you are planning on making another one. I'm wondering if you could use an old water pressure/bladder tank that people use for well pressure. I cut one up and it seems fairly thick, maybe a little thicker than a water heater, though IDK.
Another suggestion is maybe instead of mounting he heat exchanger pipes flat, what about installing them at a 20-45 degree angle, so they would act like a chimney, pulling air in from the lower point and the heated air would exit the higher point - natural convection cycle. You could also install pipe down to the floor and then connect it to the heat exchanger pipes with your current setup, and that would increase air flow a lot and would heat the colder air at the floor faster. Same could be done if you installed them at an angle as well. You could eliminate the fan once room gets up to temp.
As for the drip mechanism would it work better if the oil was dripping at more points around the tray, like 4 or 8 spots instead of the single point? How well does it spread out now? I'm wondering how much that would improve efficiency if it would at all, and how much work it would be to introduce more drip points for the oil.
Have you ever considered preheating the air that comes into the burn chamber? I'd be interested to know how that effects the setup and you could do it very easily by piping one of the exchanger tubes into the bottom air intake - or run a new one through it. Maybe run a vertical pipe through the burning area of the stove (or 2 - one for intake, one for heat exchanger) and exit right above the fire. One could draw air in from the top, down the pipe and into the burn box for pre-heated air, and another would flow the opposite way, drawing air in (lower the better) and flow up through the stove, exiting at the top. IDK, it's just a thought. I wonder how much heat is lost up the chimney - do you take temp readings on it. That would be interesting to see. If the temps are high enough, you could get a larger chimney pipe and do a heat exchanger the length of the vertical run and extract some extra heat if there is a lot being lost.
Either way, good job, it's fun to think about these things even if some of the ideas aren't always the most practical, in some cases they may be useful, like if fuel is limited or a very large space needs heated.
Here is a video you might find interesting and it's "technology" can be implemented in stoves as well. It's a tent heater made from a burning log outside the tent.
ruclips.net/video/QeHGDr81XwM/видео.html
kde is the best
Great idea
Invest in a co detector.
Unless you have an open window.
I had one of these years ago that i built. One thing i ended up doing was running a double feed line. One line dripped the bare minimum to keep it burning, the other had a solenoid valve hooked to a thermostat and would open on demand for heat. When the second line opened up it would be higher flow to raise the temps in the room, once the temp got where it needed to be, the solenoid would close and go back to the first line dripping only enough to keep it going.
Loads of next to free easy heat. Btw i had the same exact blower fan on my setup.
I eventually built a major upgrade with an old fuel oil furnace so i could run it 24/7 automatically and keep the garage at 40 degrees until i went in the garage and turned up the thermoatat. Be aware that for that setup you need a serious supply of clean used motor oil, vegetable oil, etc.
That sounds awesome
It's a real design
I like that the burn air is naturally aspirated instead of fan forced. I'm making one for hot water heating included.
Awesome
Great build. Only suggestion would be seal up the door leaks and bring in outside air so that you retain your conditioned inside air. Good choice in tunes as well!
Check out my new video on the old heater I made several improvements including the door seal.
ruclips.net/video/PRGpfTpOdrk/видео.html
A change that maybe worthwhile, would be having more smaller heat exchanger pipes - say 10x 2". Also, try running the heat exchanger pipes at 45° through the tank, so that the heated air within 'pumps' air through the tubes - you can avoid the need for the fan noise/electricity then.
Yes! I was really baffled by the horizontal tubes considering all the other back-pocket engineering on this. Made no sense to me. Plus, angled natural draft pipes could be arranged in a spiral which would maximize heat exchanger efficiency by swirling the post-combustion gasses
I like your set up! Nice burner design! I also ran a 40 gallon water heater tank with a through pipe to help heat shop air!
Very cool!
Awesome video, lay it down on its side, and then feel the heat
---IT IS A GOOD BOULD... but if you change your heat x pipes to a 45 deg. the air will flow by itself. Heat flows upwards. Then you will not need the van.
Nice 👍
Wom bud thats a really impressive and cheap set up bud. Well done sir. I would like to use that set up in a shed far away from my house and run glycol lines and a 2 heat exchangers and a water pump to safely heat the house lol
I like that vortex air design .
Thanks 👍
Also adding more heat exchanger tubes will reduce chimney temps and help scavenge even more heat
This can also cause more soot build-up and a bigger pain in the but to clean. No argument on the better efficient though.
@@vhateverlie judging by temperatures soot might burn away its self....
@@infinitewars6373 not if, like I said, you add more heat exchangers which lowers the exhaust temp down to a possible level of soot deposition.
number one with the temps in chamber where oil burns all soot will burn off if you go to chimney and look in there will be no black smoke etc..... because the temperatures in the chamber reach very high meaning it all burns off, right in chamber, number two adding extra pipes will allow to extract more heat but will hardly affect temperature of the heat exchanger i have similar one of these and have played about..... unless you use very efficient loud fan.....
Another quick question, in theory wouldn't it be more effective to place the heat exchanges closer to the air hat/burn chamber due to that areas reading higher on the thermometer? For example, on your first unit you built, you'd place the heat exchange through the pipe between the brake disc and propane tank.
I have a Montgomery Ward's that was built specially for this and a newer Kenmore that has a float for the kerosene or diesel or whatever I've modified both of them and they can still run as they were
You could build like a brick wall around it and fill it with kitty litter for spills lol like a mote. And maybe that could help dampen flames until you can get to a extinguisher. All i see is carbon monoxide and a flame hazard but both can be avoided. Air filtration system and a game plan to prevent fires. I really dig this idea. Why give away oil we paid for.
Our barracks (Army) used 2 drip heaters fed from 55 gal drums turned on their sides and mounted on wood stands outside. The barracks itself was merely canvas roof with screen sides which we covered with plastic sheeting during the winter. They'd glow orange at night while we were laying in our cots but kept us warm, at least when the Army saw fit to keep the tanks full. There was just a small pot at the bottom of each with a mere sheet metal box that had the flue coming out of it. Very simple. The valve was very small and only allowed for a drip (no stream) even though on cold nights we wished we could turn it up. The Army used copper tubing running across the floor to the middle aisle of the barracks. I estimate there were probably 50 of us in each barracks so I'd say they were about 100 foot long by maybe 18 or 20 feet wide. Design was so simple I was always amazed how easy it would be to duplicate. And I believe the fuel was diesel. We lived in those for 2 years out in the desert where it got quite cold after sun-down.
That is some very cool information. Thanks
Hello Randy .... I can count on your help to make a burner like yours, the latest version, I find it spectacular, you can make a drawing of the burner with all its measurements, of the materials necessary to carry out the project, I am a old man who lives far away, end of the planet, a small country, named Chile.my heating system is wood, very basic ,,, but I have access to hundreds of liters of used oil ,, which I can recycle by manufacturing his invention ,,,, very grateful if I could do it ,,,, excuse my writing mistakes of your dioma ,,, I did it with the help of google translate ,,, a big hug friend ,,, if someday you travel to my country count on me
I will get you those measurements and a drawing. Sorry for the late response and it's over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit here now so I don't look at the heater very much
Randy's DIY could u send me all the measurements and stuff to please
@@randysdiy2102 wouldn't it make more output if you added a forced air induction on that
Absolutely, but I was after a no electricity heater
Sorry, I added a measurement video shortly after your question was asked
Looks great!
Also, to the people commenting about CO: his exhaust is going outside. Very little exhaust fumes will be getting past the burner door. That heater will pull fresh air from the shop, and of course he'll have to crack a window for inlet air, but it wouldn't need much. No building is air tight. It'll be just fine.
Thank you for your comment appreciate the positive notes
Talking about air tight building. My "two door" garage/workshop. Definitely need the last door. I built and assembled one of them. The other is still missing. Not air tight for sure, perfect for oil burning heater ventilation. LOL 😂
BTW I use an old iron pot and chimney assembly with a disk brake. Works perfectly.
I really like the drip tee where you see the drip.
Thanks 👍
Nice work. If you manifold your exhaust to exit lower in your stove it will increase the heat captured. Create an unnatural exit. Right now your heat rises, and leaves.
@@biggybiggy84 See my comment above it suggests doing the top half of the tank as a Rocket Stove is done.. This would put the exiting chimney half way down the unit capturing more Btu's in the unit because heat rises while the chimney can still draw in a downward motion. Could reduce his chimney temps maybe 100F in the process this would allow him to build a smaller unit and collect the same amount of Btu's on the same or less fuel.
A like your taste in music too! No one commented about "Free Will" playing in the background?
Lol thanks
Great job bud!
Nice simple design 👌. You will improve the burn chamber by putting some old heavy chain around the bottom of the pot to help vaporise the oil. A good source for a similar sized tank is from an old freon refrigeration system receiver vessel , the steel is much thicker .
Good idea
Keep yourself warm there bro; sound like you have a cold.
Yes thanks, a little sniffle
That's from breathing that burning oil indoors.🤢
First off I’m not a eco nut. We have a clean burn waste oil furnace in our shop. I’m wondering how much black smoke is coming out of the chimney? If it is very hot at the burning point with lots of oxygen it’s very efficient. I like the design. I love the will do it attitude. Most people who comment have never built anything much less even a peanut butter sandwich!!!!
I have a video on my channel that shows the smoke output. It is pretty clean very small amount of smoke output, more of a haze.
And if you ask for jam w/that sammich, it'll fuck them up! Lol
I like the idea you do not need a blower to add air, just the draft. A suggestion would be to add a cold air intake using the outside air. Just plumb it to the bottom of the tank with maybe a four inch pipe or the like. If you have a very leaky shop, it is not needed as much. My shop is way too air tight so I added the CAI and it improved the draft and did not burn up the O2 in the shop. Also, the cold air increases the fire box temp due to the tighter molecule structure. Same principal as a CAI on a car. I also agree with the suggestion to gasket the door to increase draft. One other thing I did was use a brake drum for the bottom of the burn chamber. Then you could run the air pipe through the center and just weld up the lug holes. Will last forever. Great job!!
All great ideas, will definitely Implement the cai
very good job i am doing the same thing out of wood stove 1/4 steel got some ideas from you thanks
Glad to know it helped, if there is anything else I can help with let me know
Why cut the x pipes going through middle extend them 5 6 inch for more x change. Good work I'm building one
If the cross pipes were positioned at an upward angle they should create their own draft.
Hey Randy, would like to see a video regarding the valve mod... Thanks, Dave
I will make one tomorrow for you and try to get it posted
You need to seal off the door so you can get a better draft and burns better. Like the design