Updated Waste Oil Heater Drip Feed Ver. 3.0 Detailed, March 1, 2020
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 20 июл 2024
- In this video you will have details on this waste oil heater. Anything I may have missed please ask and I will happily try to answer. thanks for watching and PLEASE, LIKE, SHARE, and COMMENT, and please SUBSCRIBE!
/ @randysdiy2102
Thanks to Gerry's DIY channel for the ideas that got this build started, the burner I made was based off of his original burner idea.
For Burner details and measurements see my other video's here is a direct link.
• Waste Oil Vortex Burne...
smoke output video before ver. 3.0
• Waste Oil Burner Smoke...
changes made for version 3.0 include,
repair door and door seal, added more air intake holes to the air hat, added a door latch, added more heat exchanger tubes.
ATTENTION!!!! IF you choose to try any of my DIY things, PLEASE KNOW that are and can be dangerous. If you choose to try any of these things please know that you are on your own, I will not accept any responsibility for anything that may go wrong. Some concerns you should be aware of is carbon monoxide poisoning, fires that could burn you, your family and property down, Please use common sense if you attempt anything on this channel, as I will not accept any responsibility for any problems that may arise from anything you attempt on your own. Burning oil IS DANGEROUS. 
Хобби
![College Football 25 Road To Glory - Transfer Portal & First Team All-American [FRESHMAN YEAR]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U8UYgoKneCo/mqdefault.jpg)
![Sean Rii, Karyon, Sharzkii - Taungule [My Love] (Official Music Video)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/eJoMuypbSzQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I've been searching for a good way to burn waste oil without having some sort of induction fan and it looks like you've hit the nail on the head. I'm always trying to think ahead about what happens when the power goes out and your design shows that it's possible to get reliable heat without depending on electricity. That makes the difference between being comfortable during a lights out winter storm or just plain miserable. Nice job! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks, but I would never sleep with it running. Too dangerous. Yes you are right good way too keep warm with no electricity
This is a really cool setup. I worked as a welder nearly 40 years doing sheet metal work. Might have to build one of these myself. Living in NC it’s not to bad cold in the winter but would save money.
this is fantastic, i'm looking at building one for my shop, you've given me some great ideas, thank you for sharing.
Glad you liked it, hope it works out great for you.
Thanks a billion! All stuff and no fluff!
Yep that’s going to be in my barn one day. Thanks.
"LIKE" does not cover it, I LOVE this, thank you.
Thanks glad you liked it.
I’m taking on the challenge. Good idea man.
Be careful burning oil
I watch with interest.
My idea is to put the burner into the top chamber of my underburning wood fired water heater furnice.
It requires quite a few modifications to your presentation.
I'm thinking of pumping the oil in.
When it is running, the stove will look like it is burning wood.
So the oil will come through a bulkhead penetration at the bottom of the boiler. It is the only thing that is not a water chamber.
A Dane in Sweden
Great Job !!!
Hey I like your set up....I have an older air compressor tank a 21 gal. Vertical I will try to make the same set up you have thanks for the videos.
Good deal, be careful
Hey ,great Suggstion..would be to imagine the intake air coming from outside of the room, CAUSE it needs air flow and as long as this (fresh) air flow's blows into the ambient room air >>>> it's cooling the ambient air temperatur >> down Thanks for the viseo & respect from Belgium..
If you draw your primary air from outside and it is cooler then inside your shop you will be pleased with the improved performance
That has been recommended, I may try it
Nice stove and good ideas/video by the way. Thanks
A great project and works so well. The reason you need to quote both farenheit and celcius temperatures is because most countries in the world have now converted to using metric measurements in everything.
Yes sir, I understand. However, when you been on this earth for 52 years and only use Fahrenheit, it's hard to remember to give everybody the Celsius readings. I'll try to do better in the future though
I just finished putting together my waste oil heater and I'm having tuning the burn.. pretty much identical set up to this except I don't have the elbows welded to the air hat.. I started with 10 holes round a 7 inch diameter air hat, start it up on diesel burns really dirty if i give it anything over a pencil lead thickness, and less than a pencil lead burns out to nothing... tried adding more air holes to no apparent effect. going to try adding even more air holes and see what happens b/c all I can make sense of it is its not getting enough air.
Sound like a good move. Mine now has 16 air holes and is more efficient
Hi there... I have mine up and running! These things are awesome, and your advanced design works fantastic! What did you use to glue the oven rope seal to the door? I'll be attaching one soon.
I am not really sure. I don't remember what it was. I think in one of the videos I make a statement as to what I used. I will go back through my Amazon purchases and see if I can find out what it is. But I think if you search for fireplace insulating rope glue, you'll find it
Hi Randy! I love the heater. I am building one for my shop out of a wood stove. Can do a video or give me specs for your burn pot?
I've got a video with all the specs on it. Check out my channel
Nice! I like the design of your combustion chamber. I got an 80 gallon air tank which is larger in diameter I may use which will allow room to line the inside with fire brick. Thinking it will hold heat better and possibly use less fuel.
Sounds like a good idea but I'm not sure how the heat is going to get out of the tank until the heat bricks get really really hot.sounds as if it might insulate the heat inside the tank instead of radiating into your shop.
Yeah I'm not sure either was thinking like how a rocket stove work's. The brick holds heat in so the fuel gets a more complete burn but once the brick is warm it continues to put out heat after the fire is out. Maybe line the bottom half first to try and possibly be able to shut the heater down to save fuel. Just getting some ideas thought about some how combining the two heaters to gather so you could run wood or oil.
@@jasonbrown7258 You could use your original idea, and make the air tank your fire box and insulate it as well as possible. Then, you could take the flue and go into a heat exchanger from where you will actually extract energy from the flue gas. This would require more plumbing though. Or, you could use half the air tank as your firebox, insulate that part, and then internally put a steel plate half way up the tank, line the bottom of that with fire bricks/rock wool and put a 6-8" diameter hole in the center, and then use the upper portion of the tank as your heat exchanger. Basically, build a steam boiler, but you would be heating air instead of water. My only concern with an air tank is that it is probably even thinner than a water tank, making it less able to withstand high temperature. But those are just theories- I haven't actually tested any of this.
Absolutely awesome job man! Ima definitely copy this as close as I can to heat a much smaller garage. Thanks! I feel like most people's vids have a subscribe button easily click able. I had a hard time finding how to subscribe to yours. Jfyi
Thanks for the information
Hi Randy, I have watched multiple builds and have found yours to be my preference. You mentioned you added extra air holes to the air hat, was hoping to see that in the video, was wondering if You could share an updated pic or video on how you spaced them out and did you add the elbows to them as well?
Thanks
Hello Enrique, I drilled one half inch hole slightly above and centered between the existing elbows. So 8 half inch hole were added to the burner. I will try to get a new video of the air hat soon. It's hot here so no need for a heater right now. Thanks for the replay and positive comment.
Yes. I would also like to see these added holes. Thanks.
I'll try to get you something it may take me a few days
In order to give it longer life it's best to keep it below 550 digree as I understand.
Hi Randy, Thanks for sharing your videos. Do you think the combustion would be cleaner and more efficient if you allowed the gas from the oil to burn up entirely at high temperatures before extracting heat for your workshop? Rocket mass heaters use a tall internal heat rise (chimney) to complete the combustion at high temperatures and this also creates a powerful draft. The heat exchange only starts when the hot gas exits the riser and enters a bell (inverted closed cylinder) with the exhaust exiting at the bottom of the bell. I think this should work quite well with an oil-fired heater. Just some thoughts. Tim
Yes, the higher the temp and more air = cleaner burn
Maybe add a fan shroud on the back to direct air through all the exchangers?
Great idea because I'm working on it now .
What did you change on the air hat. The one we watched had the eight 90s. We are building one today. Thank you. Great videos
Added 8 more half inch holes between the others with the 90 elbows. Be careful burning oil is very dangerous!
If you weld the heat exchanging pipes at an angle, the back end being lower than the front end, for each pipe, you will impose a degree of self-circulation in the correct direction. In your current design, the heat doesn't know which way it wants to go in the pipes unless you set up a fan. The fan is noisy and pulls energy and we don't want that.
Yeah that's been discussed in the comments. However, in one of the other videos I mentioned that the the tank is only 14 in from front to back so there wouldn't be a lot of natural draft happening and I would rather use the fan to blow the heat on to my work area instead of it pointing upward. But it is a good idea if you didn't have electricity
Love those heat exchanger pipe you drilled in and welded......quick question.......how do you align the holes on the back of the cylinder to match the front? I've got my unit build now, just want to add some pipes for more heat output.....appreciate what you're doing, Bud.....keep it up......Bill
There's no exact way of doing it I just found center of tank measured from center out and then the weld line down in an eyeball to angle.
@@randysdiy2102 Okay, sorta got it......appreciate the fast reply-back......I'll give it a go with a piece of 3" pipe.......I'll let ya know how it goes......Thanks, Randy...
Bill
@@wilfor03 Sure just be careful, Burning oil is Dangerous and I assume no responsibility. You know go to put that out there.
if you raise flu pipe 2 feet above roof line it will burn even cleaner i had same problem with mine air would hit back wall and come down pipe raised pipe into air stream
I'll try it
You seem to have good control of your burn. Most ive seen look like they could get out of hand with not much control.
Im trying to build one and wanted more control, hope you dont mind if i copy a few of your ideas.
No problem, be careful
Hello, I just found your channel and your waste oil heater 3.0 video. And watched all the videos pertaining to this project. Thank you for the videos and all the information you supplied through them.
I do have a question, would the oil burn better if it was able to gain heat as it approaches the burn pan?
All of the videos that I've seen have a drip system basically like yours and they seem to work great. I'm just curious as to whether or not having the oil supply pipe closer to the actual tank in order to start heating up the oil as it travels to the burn pan would make a difference in the burning process?
Probably, I have found that as the oil heats up if flows faster requiring the flow to need adjustment
That makes sense. Thank you for answering so quick.
Wow Awesome. What kinda tank did you use. I've got a gas hot water heater 50 gallon. Could i use this ? I'm wanting to construct a stove like yours, yjank you so much.
I used a 40 gallon gas water heater tank now with the gas water heater you're going to have to cut out the exhaust pipe through the center of the tank. Here goes my disclaimer be careful when burning waste oil it's dangerous and I cannot be held responsible for any ideas that I've conveyed
Thanks Randy, i am totally aware of the risks. I also know this type of "heat" is very resourceful but cannnot be regulated. For my plans I would always be present and never leave it unattended. Thanks Randy 👍👍👌
Fantastic build, looking forward to making my own. You said in a previous video that you may suggest against using a water tank for this purpose, so how do you now feel about using the water tank as your firebox? You’re sticking with it so it seems you may have changed your mind. What would you prefer to use instead?
Thanks 👍
@@randysdiy2102
When the water tank is held up reasonably well so I don't know that I would recommend against it anymore. It's just when I built it it seemed like it was going to be very flimsy but turned out okay
@@randysdiy2102 I just lit mine (water tank) for the first time last weekend so I’m glad to hear yours has held up fine thus far. Thanks for the reply.
Good luck with it and be careful
Does the air intake "Hat" still have the 90deg. fittings for the swirl effect inside the fire chamber?
Yes, but only half of them. I left the original ones and then just drilled 8 more holes between the elbow's
Like the RED hat
Lol 2024
Sweet asf
Thanks
I got the same pants.
😎
You mentioned in this video that the modification (door sealed and Air Hat mods) that it is more efficient. Have you done a burn test yet to see how quickly it uses oil now? I really like your idea of the air hat as it appears to make your unit very efficient. Also, I have not found any photos of the modified air hat or of the work you did on the door. Maybe a little video of the mods you did to it?
Also, what did you make the air hat out of?
I think my newest video has those things I'll have to check and see
Old fire extinguisher
Fire extinguisher. Cut the top off and the bottom served as the hat. Check out all of my videos on my channel. I have them sorted by playlists. If you watch the one on measurements I think all that is in there
You made a comment about tapping the drip valve onto, into the burn line. Did you video any of that? I don't understand what you had to tap or why.
This is really hard to explain in words I'll probably have to make a video for you. But if you just put the t in line the oil will run down the sides of the t and you won't see that drip going through the center of the t, it just hugs the walls so I got a hose barb nipple and went through the bottom of the tea into the top of it and screwed it into the top threads so that the nipple was just in front of the see-through part of the t. If this is not clear enough I'll go out and take a few pictures and see if I can get those on here somehow or another, I don't know why RUclips don't allow us to upload pictures in comments.
Hey Randy. I did it! I've watched a bunch of videos on waste oil burners but I liked yours the best and just got it all done! Thank you! I used a 75 gallon gas water heater. You said you don't like how thin the metal was in the 40 gallon one you used. This thing is 3/16 thick! I even used the original exhaust pipe as a heat exchanger tube! I'd love to show you pics. I've only had a few fires in there so far. I have a question I was hoping you might be able to help me with. I sealed the door with wood stove rope seal. I did 2 rows of half inch elbows around the air hat and a ton of extra half inch holes so this thing is getting a ton of air. As it's heating up I can hear it sucking in the air. No smoke from the fire is leaking anywhere inside the shop. Once it gets to a raging fire inside as I turn up the fuel it gets to a point where it's like it can't get enough air. Fire still raging and it sounds like a jet afterburner but then a weird vibration starts happening. A rhythmic vibration like it's trying to chug even more air that it can't get. It shakes my cement floor! When it starts doing this vibration it starts puffing smoke out the door. If I turn down the fuel, it limits this extra vibration but it will still vibrate randomly as the fire rages on puffing out smoke whenever it vibrates. I certainly don't want to breathe motor oil smoke so I keep having to turn my exhaust fan on and then opening up my shop door which defeats the purpose of the heater. Have you ever experienced this issue? Thanks for any input. I still have what's left of the fire extinguisher I used to make the air hat. I was thinking I might make it exactly like yours with one row of half inch elbows and half inch holes in between and see if that fixes my issue. If it doesn't, just filling the whole thing full of holes.
Be really careful burning oil. It can cause some really serious stuff. It's sounds like you may be over feed oil and it may be filling the the reservoir over the air intake holes. I never have had anything like that happen so I really don't know what issue your experiencing.just please be careful that thing could blow up on you.
@@randysdiy2102 I'm being careful for sure. I appreciate it. It's definitely not filling up and going over the air intake holes. The oil is burning really well with very little smoke out the chimney.
@@jstetler69 I guess it could be generating so much energy in the form of heat it just about to turn into a rocket. If you have a video I would love to see it. I bet it is really putting some heat out.
@@randysdiy2102 Here's a vid I shot the 2nd time I had it burning. Listen closely when I hold my phone up near the heater and you'll hear the vibration. I made this video to show some friends and family the heater I told them I was making. I say in the video that I don't want to open the door because oil will fling out. In reality, the heater had just stopped puffing smoke out the door and I didn't want it to start again. ruclips.net/video/I5t8na-C9zA/видео.html
@@randysdiy2102 Update. I made a new air hat with just 1 row of half inch holes around the bottom. Now it doesn't puff out smoke but it barely gets hot lol! I definitely think it was getting too much air before but couldn't get rid of the exhaust fast enough.... So it would puff out smoke. I think I need to make my chimney more direct. Have it exit directly out the top instead of the side. That will cut out 1 90 degree bend. Plus I could set up a better air door to slow it down a little.
Just some tips and ideas.... Be warned, this is a long read lol Also be sure to see his 'Waste Oil Vortex Burner With Dimensions' video so some of this makes sense lol
- The hat would be from a 20# pound fire extinguisher for about a 7 inch diameter for those looking. I got an empty one for $20 at a fire suppression/safety shop (it was a date expired tank).
I'm building pretty much a replica of your design with a 50 gallon electric water heater tank. No one else is using heat exchange tubes and a fan, just the radiant heat. Though they have small shops or garages, but seems like a waste of heat letting it go right out the chimney. Your design i feel is best. It doesn't require any electricity if you just want radiant heat. That's truly free heat. I will be using a fan too, but that's nothing compared to the gas bill trying to heat the shop.
- Without scientific evidence, I am sure the 90 degree elbows help because of the vortex they create. longer burn time while providing air. I used 8 elbows also, but went up to 3/4" elbows. You must build the hat FIRST to know what size pan/chamber to make! (if you use elbows).
- For the center air tube (under the hat) I used a 1# pound propane tank, which results in a little more than 5" tall tube and 4" inches in diameter... perfect for this setup. Thin metal though and a pain to mig weld. Alternatively, there is smaller fire extinguishers or those little air compressors with 2 tiny tanks (you'll have to measure the diameter).
- I will use water and try and chase down and weld any leaks in the pan/chamber, but I will still seal up the seams with a few containers of that Quick Steel - ThermoSteel from Oreilly's (up to 2400 degrees F, or 1300 degrees C).
- I grabbed a 11 gallon air tank for the oil storage/delivery as opposed to a 5 gallon bucket. Though that quick release fitting on the bucket is a great idea! As i saw another idea on some video, i'll be mounting the air tank (oil tank) slightly tilted on a simple angle iron frame (total height frame, tank, and funnel about 42" off the ground) for easier access and filling. I cut the top off the fire extinguisher as a funnel (maybe 5" to 6" tall total) then drilled a hole the same size as the extinguisher's fill hole (1" i think?) then welded the fire extinguisher "funnel" to the top of the oil storage tank. Then sealed those welds with JB weld (you can overfill the tank by a quart or more accidentally with no spills). 7" inch sieves/strainers are easy to find. My strainer sits perfect on the 'funnel' (cut off part of the handle so it doesn't tilt from the weight).
- My setup will be different for oil delivery as I said, with a 1/2 inch diameter pipe, coming horizontal from the oil tank, and a 90 degree elbow aiming down with the valve attached under that.
I'm using a 1 inch diameter black metal pipe with a 1 inch 45 degree elbow on the end for oil into the burner tank. The opening of the elbow aims upward where the valve ( an inch or two above the opening) will drip/stream oil into it. This way I can see the drip/stream, and still be able to move the oil tank if needed for remote filling or for whatever reason.
- When cutting the doors, measure and mark where you'll cut, then ONLY cut 3 sides! The side where the hinge(s)will go, and the top and bottom edges. Do not cut the opposite side from the hinges yet!. Align and weld on the hinges. Before cutting the air door out, tack weld a washer or something to the door with the washer overlapping a cut edge. Then you can cut just the air door the rest of the way.
For the big chamber door, now is the best time to bend and curve 2 metal strips (1 inch to 1 1/2 inch wide) to help seal the big door (you will need a 3rd straight strip for the final edge). Bend and curve them as close as you can to the tanks curve using a brake rotor edge or something. Bend slowly, carefully and evenly for best results.
Cut the curved strips about 1/4 -3/8 inches short of the last cut line on the door to make room for the 3rd strip. You'll probably be cutting a few inches off the end of the strips because it's very difficult to get the ends to curve with the rest of the strip. (Cut the strips AFTER bending/curving so you only keep the properly bent sections).
Align the strips to the top and bottom edges of the door, overlapping most of the strip on the burner tank. Tack weld the top and bottom strips to the door, then cut the remaining side opposite the hinges and your door wont fall into the tank while laughing at you. Finally, weld on the 3rd strip on the end. making sure the edge is touching the TANK (the doorside edge might be raised a little. Just weld it like that. As always with sheet metal, only use tack welds over a period of time to prevent warping. I didn't weld them completely, I just used a lot of tack welds.
- I keep trying to think of something where the oil drips into the chamber... Maybe a small thin metal tab/plate sticking out horizontally from the hat for the oil to drip on? That plate would be super hot even from the startup fire and glowing hot when it's in full swing... might help super heat or even partially flash burn the oil before it hits the pan? I dunno. There's something to that I can't quite figure out lol
Thanks for the vids on this! What an awesome setup! I hope I helped someone in my ramblings lol
All excellent information! Thanks
I'm just wondering if the smoke really stinks. I live in a small rural town and wondering if the smell of the smoke will bother them or not?
Is not too bad my closest neighbor is about 100 yards away and he never says anything
Nice build project. Is carbon monoxide a concern with this and do you think it's safe enough to run overnight unattended without burning your shop down?
Yes carbon monoxide is concern. I do have carbon monoxide detectors in my shop but I never ever leave it burning without being attended.
Randy what dia exhaust pipe you running, it looks like 4 inch?
I believe that 6-in chimney pipe could be 8 in I'll take a measurement when I go back out to the shop
Could you post some pictures of your intake? You mentioned you cut some more holes in it. Preparing to build one of these for my shop. Got 2 trucks which brings about 30 gallons of oil a month. 300 gallons in storage so I gotta get one built, heat my shop for free and getting rid of my oil. Can't beat that
Here is a pic of the extra holes, they are 1/2 inch holes drilled between the 90 fittings.
photos.app.goo.gl/rDfYXCbv9qS1KWQX9
but you kill your kids future!
Nah Joe biden's going to shut down all the oil anyway He's already killed the pipeline. We'll all be using solar heat even at night. 😂
@Randy's diy I tried looking at the link. But it says they are deleted. I built an oil burner very similar to yours, but is burning very rich. Would really like to see updated version. Thanks
The new burner I just drilled twice as many air holes in the bottom of the air hat. Allow more air in leans your burn out. Try that and see how it works out for you. I'll get you the link for that revised video or you can go to all my videos and find them there
Can you go over the updates to the air hat?
I just added 8 more 1/2 inch holes for air
If you are using a 6" flue wouldn't a 6" air intake work better? I don't know. The air velocity might be too low. I guess it will draw what it needs as long as it is available.
Good point, I've never thought of that. Now that you mentioned it, as long as the intake is larger than the exhaust then it should be able to draw sufficient air. Great point though, I haven't thought of that
What if you can like preheat the oil before it entered enters the the boiler burner would it burn a lot faster would it burn a lot cleaner
I think you would probably just have a little better control of the flow rate and I don't think it would affect the burn rate or quality
Hey randy I'm thinking about one for my shop. Does yours burn synthetic?
It will burn pretty much anything that is a petroleum base that will flow. I have burned jet fuel, diesel, cooking oil, kerosene, transmission fluid, etc. just remember if you build one of these things be very careful I can't express how dangerous they are.
Awesome, can you show the modifications to the "air hat"?
Yes I think I posted a pic some time. All I did was drilled a half inch hole between each of the 90 degree fittings. So basically I just doubled the amount of holes that air could come into the combustion chamber
@@randysdiy2102 did you put 90’s on the extra holes?
@@randysdiy2102 also, thanks for the video , well done. I’m trying to fine tune mine. Struggling to get that jet type of flow
No sir,.just 1/2 holes.
You could add a fan for supply air right?
Yes, absolutely
You said you did a mod to the air hat, if I may ask what did you do?
Added 8 more 1/2 inch holes for more air in the burn chamber
Im concerned about the oil running under the air hat and burning inside the hat. Is that an issue. Its the only thing holding me back from starting mine. After 3years of watching your videos. Its getting built this year.
I don't believe it would be possible for the fire to ignite in that area as all the air is being sucked through the hat into the burn chamber. So it should pull that flame right back into the burn chamber. Just my thoughts. No scientific proof.
How many holes did you end up with? I'm trying to mimic your build to the best of my abilities and Im burning super rich.. I did mine out of a 100lb propane tank.
I just read the other comments and read your response
I doubled the holes
@@001035925 any pix if yours? I'm using the same tank.
Sorry, don't understand
Hey i like your design . I have a 100 LB. propane tank to use can you send me your measurements for door openings
I can. I'll have to do that this afternoon if I can remember, but the door opening size really doesn't matter as long as you can get the burner in and out of it.
I'm looking to copy your design. Anything you would do differently before i begin? thanks
Nothing I can think of as long as you follow the newest video where I added more air holes and sealed the door.
How does your lowes bucket (NOT LEAK) .......I would love to make one like yours.....
I found a fitting that had a foam washer on it. The threads go through the bucket and then there's a big nut on the back side of it that you tighten up on the foam washer. I really don't know what that fitting's called but I got it from Lowe's
Tank fitting / bulkhead
So at a drip a second or so that would heat an average insulated house? I guess the bottom door could be left off completely.
If I slow to a drip it will not burn with my setup. Not saying that you couldn't make it work but mine will not sustain a fire with a drip
@@randysdiy2102 thats good to know. thanks
Thanks for the video but it really needed to show the air hat modifications. Great work though.
Maybe one of these days I will make one of the hat. It's pretty easy just add double the holes in the side of the hat
@8:00 is the back of the shop discolored for the heat of the stove in the past?
No I had a yard fire that caught a diesel truck tire on fire outside in my shop. Bad thing about that deal was we weren't home It was the neighbor's yard fire
@@randysdiy2102 glad it was not disastrous! Note to self: stack no combustibles near the shed or house!! Better move those pallets 12 feet away...
do ypu have like a parts list? I am trying to build a replica if you will TIA
Sorry most everything is all handmade or bought off the cuff
would you use in the inside of that?
Could you elaborate on your question please? I don't understand
where did you put extra air holes in air hat.
They are directly in between the holes with the elbow fittings
What improvements did you make to the burner or intake hat?
I added double the amount of 1/2-in holes to the air hat which just allowed for a more lean burn mixture
Did you weld on more 90 degree fittings to those new holes? Also how tall is the vent door opening and the burner access door opening on the water heater?@@randysdiy2102
I just added more holes on the burner hat to allow more oxygen in
The height of the door really shouldn't matter as long as you can fit your burner through the hole
@@randysdiy2102 one more question, we’re those 90’s cast iron? How did you weld them to the burner hat?
Would be nice to mix this heater with a roket stove
Sounds 😎
I like your thinking, I've been researching into this exact thing. I have loads of free oil, and pallet wood. Pallet wood is good if the lads break and split, but oil, well it just flows. I gathered all the bits and will make a fire brick lined burn chamber. The cylinder is a large Argon tank, and the high temp metals will all be stainless. There will be an attachment for pellets as well as oil. This thing should really cook!
Sounds like a good idea
Would like to see the burner unit. How hot does it have to be to get the oil to vaporize/ignite
Check out my channel I have a video of the burner there.
ruclips.net/video/6Puk4mPK1XI/видео.html
I usually add a little gas to Diesel to start burning, then it just runs from there not sure on the vaporized temp.
We divorced Europe for a reason. AWESOME VIDEO
😂
how did you seal the door
I found some fire door fiberglass rope on amazon, I first took a piece of 1 inch wide flat bar welded it over the edge of the door leaving 1/2 inch over lap, that's where I glued the rope too.
www.amazon.com/dp/B01D0ORRSU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_fCC6FbFZV5328?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
How tall is your tank?
I will have measure it I would guess about 5 feet
I moved to Idaho in mid SEP 2022 and we just got our first snow. Like you, I have a 40' x 60' shop, and it REALLY needs a heater! If you sell plans for your heater, or if you have written instructions, I'd be happy to buy a copy, please. I'll watch for your reply, and can then share my email address. Thanx, Randy.
Sorry, too many liabilities. But you can build one at your own risk. I've got all the measurements on one of my other videos
@@randysdiy2102 I found your other video w/dimensions yesterday, Randy. Thank you. : )
Hi Randy, I modified a wood stove to burn waste oil using the same principles as yours (updraft, drip feed) but i keep having an issue- after maybe 40- 50 hours of burn time my oil feed line clogs up with a hard coating of coke/soot and restrcts or completly clogs the flow of oil. I see you are using larger diamter steel pipe than me. I am using 5/8" copper pipe with a 7/8" copper heat shield (which seems to be helping) But im curious- Do you have this same problem? do you need to clean out the oil drip pipe at the burner end periodically due hard soot deposits?
My drip feed is a black iron pipe I usually clean it once a year. I have never had it stop up but it does accumulate some ash cake over time. And I think it matters what type of oil you use. Diesel oil seems to do it worse
@@randysdiy2102 Well shoot thats 95%of what i burn! but i definitely see why that might be true. Have you noticed a difference with vegetable oil? I think i'll try switching from motor oil (since i dont putoff that much motor oil myself, and have to pick it up anyway) to waste veg oil since i already collect it for running in my car. I'll try switching to black iron and see if that helps as well. once a year sounds like a much more reasonable cleaning interval. Thanks for the reply.
*Diesel motor oil is 95% of what i burn
I think the vegatable oil is cleaner. But I burn what ever I have on hand.
You forgot to show the extra air holes in the air hat.
Dang I'll will try to get some pics uploaded
You didn't show the extra holes you drilled in the hat I want to build one of these and do away with burning wood I'm 65 and cutting and splitting wood is getting old like me nice job
What is basically drilled double the amount of holes in between each of the 90° fittings? Anything to allow more air. You can probably just double the size of the fitting holes to 1 in and be okay that way too
My build will take a while.....I will have to take everything to my uncle's to do my biuld ....I have no welder....
Good luck.
C vs F / the Celsius is because of Canadians.
its not just Canadians, The USA is the only place still using the imperial measurments
@@dave858man2 I guess you are emphasizing my point.
Do you do anything to the used motor oil before adding it to the drip ? 🛢
Nothing at all. Just make sure it doesn't have water in it