10:20 The word you're looking for is clinker. Main reason for coking up (imo) is running at lower temps, not the fuel. Always best to burn at max every now & again. Great vid, thanks for posting!
How did you come by a Chinese cab heater? All of those things that I’ve seen are Wabesto’s, very much like those that Wabesto provided to VW for beetles in the’50’s. (Air-cooled VW’s not easy to heat in the Great White North.)
Very useful info... Good to see people keeping things running by taking them apart and cleaning everything out Keep up the good work!!!! More please!!!!!
@@johndragonman a simple fix to the fuel change over problem (cooling process) would be to install a 3 port 2 way valve on the inlet fuel pipe supply. Meaning: start up on kerosene and once hot switch over to the heavy stuff.
This is not good information, it is horrible misinformation and possibly deadly. These heaters do NOT run well on waste oil and can have catastrophic failure as a result. My exhaust caught on fire, turned white hot and if I wasn't in my garage at the time, it may have burnt down. I will be posting a video soon talking about my adventures with my heater caused by misinformation such as what is found in this video.
@@loweredexpectations4927 too much fuel and not enough air. You probably ran it at full bore but they are overrated and should never be used at full fuel flow. Search for the Vortecks YT channel, he explains it well.
The key is to mix the waste oil/diesel/gasoline at roughly 50:40:10 - i just guess as i mix it all in a 5 gallon can. I will run like 25-30 gal of this then a gallon of diesel on high to get it real hot. Ive kept this pattern for like 3 yrs. The hot run of diesel is basically a self cleanse and i get a lot sparks and soot out the pipe
If diesel is doing the cleaning then you may as well just run a tank of diesel through every so often and avoid all that faf, which is exactly what diesel car owners do that run them on veg oil.
For anyone wanting to run used motor oil just beware that this is what you'll expect real quick, so if your heater is important just keep running diesel or you'll be without heat at a bad time. I made a diy waste oil heater for my garage a few years ago and even with the burn pot getting red hot that rock like clinker stuff still showed up, and the ash accumulation was incredible, as if i was burning liquid wood. it had to be cleaned and emptied every 4-8 hours of use . It was such a pain in the ass i got rid of it. Just a fair warning to keep people out of trouble as there's lots of interest in free fuel alternatives.
A waste oil heater is not meant to burn oil with a bunch of garbage in it. You need to either let it settle overnight so the particulates and water fall to the bottom, and/or run it through a 10 or higher micron filter, or run it through a waste oil centrifuge. Once this is done it will flow and burn as easily and cleanly as diesel or kerosene.
@@hvacworkshop4791 - I don't have the ability or time to film and upload (no cell phone). I initially put my used oil, that I get from multiple sources, into a 55 gallon drum and allow to sit for at least a week to separate any larger solids and water. The drum is in a location where the sun can heat it up so it will filter better. From the drum it is gravity fed to another drum but through a 10 micron filter, which can be cleaned and reused (similar to this -ruclips.net/video/kwmpobsG-O4/видео.html, this also shows the type of pump I use), I don't use a canister type oil filter. From that barrel it is pumped to the centrifuge (this video shows the type of centrifuge I use -ruclips.net/video/3rcbL4eNhFI/видео.html) and the clean oil goes into my storage barrel. Here's a bunch more vids on different filtering techniques. ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=filtering+waste+oil
Thank you for the tip ; I have access to hundreds of gallons of used motor oil , transmission fluid , hydraulic fluid and about 1,500 gallons of old ( but clean ) diesel fuel that farmers wanted to discharge because it was contaminated with water and rust while sitting in their storage tanks during the winter , before they wanted to fill their tanks up with fresh diesel in the spring ; ( for free) . Looks like , with these “ oil burners , people could heat their home , cheaply , with unusable oil products . !!
Just got a Vevero and tried it out I’m very impressed Got it to heat out green house in Alaska so we can get our vegetables going because of the lack of heat and light
Very interesting. I am making plans to run a plastic gasifier, which gives you a nice sulphur-free diesel and kerosene mix out of the end. Looks like I could burn that nicely.
Maybe you could explain the drum idea please as I don’t quite understand how you would get twice the heat plus out from the house ? Thank great vid and explanation to by the way
I heat my whole house with one of these, only have to light the wood stove when it gets below -10c as it cannot keep up below that. There is significant heat loss out the exhaust on these, I vent mine into a masonry chimney and it gets quite warm after running on high for several hours.
my brother was looking at ways of reclaiming exhaust heat using a thing called a EGR cooler to heat water. it works really well! check out his channel at the end :D
Haha, that was so amusing! I have one of these under my camper and someone parked the diesel supply pipe on top of a tree trunk, flattening it. Turned on the heater and of course it started smoking. Plenty of white smoke! Looks like we'll have to open it up like you showed here and clean out the soot. Thanks guys, very amusing too
white smoke won't soot - white smoke is condensation or if it smells of diesel it is unburnt diesel which probably means it low on compression and ready to die. same theory as the diesel in my 4wd. Black smoke - burning rich WILL soot everything up, you may be able to add a little 10 dollar max valve/tap from the pump to the engine to reduce the fuel and gradually close it until the white smoke stops. Also let it run a few minutes hold your hand 5-10 cm from the exhaust (if it is just steam/condensation) your hand will be wet with water. Hope this Helps
If you run a secondary tank with only kerosenel and some conditioner that boosts cetane and start it on straight diesel, then switch over to your oil mix and when you shut down switch back to kerosene and run it hot before you shut it down it will stay cleaner longer
@@johndragonman Love your portable crate version of this tech, There's $$ signs appearing with an outside installation negating many regs coupled with the KW energy supply costs. The math doesn't lie whatever they blame on Putin.....Get it to market guys you may have invented the new cats eyes. I'm placing your first order here👌
A great informative video, i wouldn't use electical conduit as not airtight.. i was wondering why no one puts the exhaust into a 2 or 3 inch verticle flue! it will slow the gases down, and transfer to the larger exhaust pipe which will radiate heat into the room, but would keep it verticle...
The thru air flow is what is needed to stop the unit overheating./..ANY restriction will over heat the unit pcb-ecu. Recuperation of heat on the outside of the exhaust flue will not cause a problem .
@@jimosullivan1389 The through air is the air being heated, the exhaust gases, produce a lot of wasted heat, my point being put the small exhaust into a larger pipe, the gases will slow down, transfer heat to the lager pipe, which can then be radiated, into the living space as apposed into the atmosphere!.. but just what i have learned through experimentation
this one little heater heats the whole house ;) we have it set to the maximum 8hz pump speed and fan speed of 5000 RPM. its been running at 230.c on this batch of "fuel" we have been using with it.. its burning the hottest i have ever seen it in the time i have been using it. its getting way too hot for carbon buildup, but theres nothing i can really do about the buildup of clincker where the fuel is injected. my guess is its all part and parcel of burning used oil as fuel.
@@johndragonman yeah I have heard of some fan motors lasting 6 months and some being faulty out of the box. I have mine running on a mix of 70% waste veg oil and 10%xylene 20% white diesel. Doesn't smoke on stock settings but doesn't fire on the first attempt, I have to try once more and it stays running
Late to your responses, my dad had a big oil burner in his shop. A big tank, probably 500 gallons, with a oil filter as it left the tank and another at the inlet. Anyway I was wondering if you could do a pump thru a luberfiner style filter of all your oil before it ever made it to the tank where it goes into your heater. Also, heats your whole house, how big is that? Wow!
That little mesh screen cylinder is the atomizer screen. For starting, clean that one more often than not as lights the oil as it comes into contact with the glowplug and heats the next chamber where the real heat comes from
Run the fuel line through the exhaust or the heat exchanger to preheat the oil to at least 160f but don't go to hot or carbon will form with some solvents in the fuel line. this will cut down on the build up and will help with restarts after the initial startup. burn chamber need to get above 650F to stay clean fyi. Ps if there is any residual oil b4 650f it will start vaporizing and you may have a bomb on your hands. Don't ask me how I know.
Just curious, has anyone tried putting commercial additives such as redex in the fuel mixture to see if it helps decarbon the unit? You can buy one that is designed to clean the dpf on cars by burning hotter quicker. I've just started looking at these heaters as a potential boost to the household heating system, sorry if I'm asking obvious newb questions. Great vids btw.
This guy is trying to do everything right n is having terrible trouble, the complete opposite of these guys. He has just added a fuel injector cleaner to his mix, keep an eye on him. ruclips.net/video/XjquZB_KPCc/видео.html
I put some 2ehn in mine for a laugh as I had some laying about. It made no difference (nor did I expect it to). Redex is mainly naptha (aka white spirit)@@Solus
I have been Running used Veg oil in Vehicles for a LONG time. One of the things I am adamant about is running a very basic water injection system in order to prevent and clean out any deposits. It works exceptionaly well and you will always have a perfectly clean engine if you dose it regularly with water. Normally this is sprayed into the air intake as water in fuel is not good for injector pumps and injectors. I'm wondering if your watery Fuel actually helped keep your Burner cleaner than it may have been otherwise? I can think of for and against reasons But No idea which might be reality. I am thinking that perhaps some water in the intake might help here. I believe it would have a different action to water being in the fuel. It would only need a very small but constant amount, maybe something like a low pressure stream from something like a hypodermic needle. It would work it's way into the combustion chamber from there. Nothing fancy required. I am seriously thinking of one of these to heat my house this winter. The seem to be more economical that electric heating for the power out put. If I could run one on 75% WVO, that would be real economical. If the water feed kept them clean, should work till the thing wore out and Like a diesel Vehicle, would made sure they started easily as well. For an engine I implore people to dry their oil but in this case, I'm leaning more to the wet oil being a good rather than bad thing. It will cause a bit less heat output but probably a very worth while trade off if it helps keep the thing running on Sump Gunk or whatever you feed it.
First of all.. long time subscriber. Now. Thanks for the comment. Yeah ideas thinking of some kind of water mister. So the combustion intake takes that to help clean. It works good on car engines so may on this. Use water mist to clean older cars cat converters.. like the ones in my old fiats from 1991. Always works. They naturally poison the cat so the steam really gets them living again. I ran transformer oil through a car I had years back. Some of the most pure oil you can get. No impurities. More refined than diesel.
This might be the only really good use for a Peltier deivice and a HHO generator. It would self meter itself, and serve to clean the chamber. I always wondered if you could use something like an Induction heater style HHO Genrator that way you never have to worry about replacing electrodes. You could pass High voltage DC with the aid of some Vacuum tubes and a microwave Transformer coupled to a Ignition coil. Water is free since you live in the U.K, so using that to aid in combustion and cleaning would work a treat. Using a High voltage capacitor with an oscillator would be the perfect application for the Peltier device to get power from the heat exchange. Using something like a wideband sensor would get you the optimum burn, so this really would be the ticket to burn clean and not have to clean it as often if used at low power. It might also help running it full out as you get better fuel metering and hotter burn regardless of the fuel. Having something simular to a starting fuel computer would allow you to use Cheap old Map gas or Propane to start the thing so you don't see any deposits. However, I wonder if you could use a cermaic coating that would aid in keeping the deposits from sticking? Hmmm....
My heating boiler didn’t like dexron typed hydraulic oil and coked up much the same on the flame vortex generator! On normal clean used engine oil it is absolutely fine with no smoke or aroma. Mine is diluted significantly in the 250 gal oil tank obviously. Shame to waste good hydrocarbons.
Umm I'll have to check. I bought it from a scrap yard for 15 quid because the heating side failed which was just a thermostat. Replaced that for a fiver and it's fully working again. When I looked it was a £400 brand new!
Honestly the best way to clean this out initially and for the final scrub is Mr. Muscle foam oven cleaner. The amount of engines, intakes and exhaust headers I've cleaned in my time with that stuff is unreal. It just anhiliates any carbon build up from anything.
Great for cleaning sooty deposits but it’s based on sodium hydroxide and will eat aluminium components. Used it on a stainless pan years ago and it ate through the aluminium rivets.
Same problem here running it months on end just red diesel tho. I used a propane torch, a compressor with air chuck. Get the soot to burn then feed it air!
You have to start them on diesel or kerosene and end them on diesel or kerosene . Otherwise you will get buildup. Preheat the dirty oil a little too off the exhaust gases and you will get a better burn. You would have to make a copper preheat coil or something. Don't overheat the oil though..but the exhaust don't make a lot of heat. Just gotta keep enough below flash point at all fuel flow settings.
I worked at a auto shop some yrs ago, We used the waste engine oil, transmission oil, power steering fluid ect... a low flow pump inside the 250Gal holding tank had a fine "net" filter to catch the large particals , the burn chamber was simply a cantained chamber the blew flame against fire brick, then out the chimny/stack of the shop. We cleaned it once a month, ash, filters ect. Was a dirty job and a dedicated wet/dry vaccum and hose for it. lol I assume if one mixed clean fuel with used oil, it may go longer between cleanings? or in a smaller heater case, a tank of clean fuel for every X tank of used oil? those shop used oil heaters also used compressed air (15psi) to assest in atomizing the used fuel to burn. I assume the nasty-er the oil or thickness more air Psi might be needed for atomazation? of course in these small heaters, we rely on the little fuel ticker pump for pressure and what ever the injector nozzel does at XX psi of pressure. Just some food for thought. I bought one of these all built inside the "red case" as a "tent/camping" heater. I have a few low budget solar panels and some auto batteries in case main power goes out. I can heat a part of the home or shop. I never looked into parts/gaskets ect for these, as for who and where they were built, I felt they were dispossable if torn aprt for a "diy " service. at that auto shop that had the used oil heater, I would dump a 5 gal can a new diesel fuel into the 250Gal used oil tank . Seemed to burn a little cleaner with that sort of mix when we would service it once a month. I thought of some sort of fuel filter inline on this little heater I have now, your video has fed me, food for thought!! cheers!!
@@ugisgavars1360 In a used oil burner, the contaminats IN the used oil burns fine. The used oil buner/heater in the shop I worked in was inside, Heating say, 60f air to a comfortable 68f. I do agree if the heater is drawing in outside air and blowing it into the shop, yes, diesel mixed with 250gal storage tank helps, but 2 gallons of gasoline works alot better. Also, compressed air is your atomizer to burn used engine oil, atf ect. Adjusting the air pressure up a little for better atomazation say, 17psi vs the 15 psi the factory recomends burns a little better. I guess my point is, now that I been running one of these china units for the past 2 weeks 24/7 during our cold snap here in Colorado, 1 half gallon of gasoline per 5 gal of diesel seems to render longer times between fills and messing witt the settings (fuel pump Hz) managed to keep a 1200sqft Modular home @68F at night during -10F, and 70-73F when temps were above 20F. But for someone to buy one of these heaters and dump used oil into ? nah, won't work or for very long. especialy during a cold start up. I did a 50/50 used oil and diesel mix. If it was already up to temp and filled while it was running, it kept running, it chugged black smoke til I turned the setting down to middle, then it cleaned up. but try and restart it on a cold start, no dice. I took mine apart , cleaned it and went back to just diesel until I could verify it was "ok". Then wentt to the gas/diesel mix. Been running fine for 2 weeks..lol I did buy a second unit incase I messed this one up. BTW my unit is out side the kitchen window. Not indoors. I will modify the unit with a short dryer hose to draw in inside air through the unit so it will slow down the burn rate of fuel. maybe... easyer to heat 68f air than 0 -40F air. I will also advise not to burn Soybean oil in these, I tried a 70 soybean oil 30 Diesel mix, clogged up the fuel line and just didn't burn well at all. I can post a quick yt video on my account as long as nobody calls OSHA... (humor/kinda)
I've got a Finnsonic ultrasonic cleaner from the side of the road. It seems a bit impotent. It does blow holes in tin foil, bur generally seems a bit tame.
That's only half true. Hall sensors produce a measurable, proportional, and signed output for both poles. What's most likely the cause here is that the measuring electronics _after_ the sensor is set to measure the excursion in the output only in one direction, not both. Don't blame the sensor element.
Thanks for this thorough test; That's amazing that it's happily run on anything flammable, I'm increasingly more interested in getting one of these for the workshop now, given I can get loads of used veg oil and motor oil. Just thinking about the AFR on it; it's a shame there's not a sightglass into the burn chamber so you can set it for a nice blue flame (like those old Gunsons colortune things for petrol engines)
could you do the same thing by using an O2 sensor or a wideband sensor to go ahead and basically get the efficient blue flame but without a psych class? Would that work?
They do NOT run happily on anything flammable. The information in this video is false and dangerous. This person is not telling the truth about something... I suspect hundreds of people have tried using these heaters on waste oils as a result of this video, and from what I have seen, no one else gets these results... I have had mine for two weeks and it almost burnt my garage down twice.
Hello. Is that the 5 kw all in one 12 volt diesel heater, did you make any adjustments before you started, do you have a fuel filter on your fuel line. Tks
hey there, yes it was the 5kw 12v heater. i made no modifications besides adjusting the fan/pump speeds in the pass worded menu. the aim is to get the thing burning as hot as you can with the lowest pump speed. yes i used a very fine filter. i think i just used a 0.5 micron filter sock to filter oil through before using it. i sadly do not have any of this kit anymore as i sold it all when the UK laws changed on burning waste oil.
@@martinmorgan8475 it's more of a trial and error thing. A air quality monitor helps too as you are trying to get it to read the smallest particulates as the smaller they are the better the burn and the less chance it will soot up. It's how I got so long before cleaning.
The wicking inside gets dirty and then it won't start. You need to take it apart and spray it with carberator cleaner and blow out the crap with high pressure air.
I think Ide stay away from vegetable oil as it polymerizes to a rock hard plastic like gunk when not completely burned. that's why they presses it to remove the polymers it to run in a diesel engine
I tried mixing new 5/20 fully synthetic oil and it didn't burn well. I had neat oil leaking and gurgling from the combustion intake. I'm going to try some HP90 oil with diesel. I guess modern synthetic oil is not designed to burn.
Sorry, #1 Diesel and Kerosene are two different fuels. In Canada, when these heaters start to foul, usually by running on #1&2 Diesel, the repair stations run them on clean straight Kerosene for 6 hours or so, if that doesn't cure it, they do a tear down and clean out , similar to the way you did. Best wishes from the far North.
great video thanks dragon. Ive been burning waste engine oil mixed with kerosene with some old petrol and diesel thrown in. I set up a second tank with valves so i could start it and finish on kerosine. After 2 days it failed and when i opened it i saw it was more clogged up than yours is and had lots of fuel in the first chamber..... Next time i tried alpine mode but after 2 days the same story. I have a newer type fat controller so i cant play with pump or fan settings. Any suggestions? im probably running at 20 percent kerosene with wmo
They do take some setting up, we got ours to burn smoke free. No visible smoke at all from the exhaust. We did have quite a fast fan speed if I remember right. However too fast and it causes the flame to not be hot. The trick I used was to get the exhaust as hot as I could with the lowest pump speed and a high fan speed. I wished I documented it more now but at the time I didn't think it would take off like it has recently. I wished I still had it in operation. I am making another more improved one, but due to the new laws I won't be running it on any kind of waste oil.
@@johndragonman Thanks John, since I dont know how to access the hidden menu on my fat controller maybe I could add another fan to the breather pipe (a hair dryer?) or slow down the fuel delivery with another valve, not that I plan to do anything illegal. Any ideas?
@@freewheelinfranklyn I did consider trying to adapt some old server fans on the intake side to try and force air into the burn chamber.. I am not sure which controller you have but Google should help!
I bought one of those, you can just take it apart and reassemble it? there is no issue with tight tolerances between pieces being out of alignment and such afterwards? (I have not idea, I'm a computer guy)
Recently cleaned out my diesel heater after an e.10 error. A can of carb cleaner and a pick scrapping the crap out of the carbon and it starts up SO easy.
When it's burning perfect, not really. It's just getting them to burn perfect. No 2 heaters seem to be the same. If you have loads I recommend modifying a smudge pot style burner. See my latest video.
@@dariosmith4719 my contents not that good.. I just record things I find interesting in the hope it helps others in some way. Yeah it's good to try things.
Add some eliminox to your fuel it will sort out the water contamination, you'll get a cleaner more efficient burn and better fuel economy, less emissions, it's amazing
yeah red hot. the duct is about 7 meters. however it is 4 inch duct. so less restrictive. the air coming out the end is well hot enough to heat the house
@@johndragonman Im from Derbyshire lol, I know Derbyshire when I hear it lol, awesome videos on the heaters and I see you get upto alsorts of stuff so Im subscribed ;-)
it is now days :( the licence is £7000 a year. yet its going to get burned anyway somewhere else. somehow burning heavily taxed single use oil is perfectly legal.
Before we built I was running a 900W 2 stroke generator and the muffler became clogged and I tried burning out the soot build up with no luck so now I thinking of convert it to steam
The black hard bits is calked Coke. Coke is a grey, hard, and porous fuel with a high carbon content and few impurities, made by heating coal or oil in the absence of air - a destructive distillation process. It is an important industrial product, used mainly in iron ore smelting, but also as a fuel in stoves and forges when air pollution is a concern. Wikipedia :)
Hi John, great video I was just wondering what are best advanced settings on the controller As I am using old engine oil and kerosene 50/50 and I've had oil coming out of the the breather pipe so I had to strip it all down and clean it all out.
It's different for all burners.. you kinda have to find what's best for yours. One of mine loves to have a full fan speed on both low and high settings.. the other needs to have the fan speed half way in the same settings. Start the burner off so it's running and gone through its heat up cycle the just experiment with the first 2 fan speed settings in the advanced menu. Keep the wire mesh around the glow plug clean and it will work well when set up. Try to get the fan speed low enough so its not burning and producing smoke.. but fast enough that it's not blowing the flame out. Can take some time to perfect.
The reason it runs so clean is because of the high water content. Hydraulic oil absorbs water and water is great to de-carbonize hot carbon off of things. Spray water into a hot engine to clean carbon off of valves and stuff.
I actually do. The "reputable" brands add things into the software that locks them out if they fail to start a few times.. which then need to be unlocked by a service tech. These cheaper ones are just as good.. they have no lockouts and parts are very cheap. I do recommend them.
Years ago I decided to fit a highly recommended item to all our cars as we were knocking up the mileage, fuel economy , clean burning , good fuel economy etc was a priority .as we were doing almost 1100 miles a week between us . So I put a Slick friction reducer in all three engines at the recommended rate and added a bit of kit that worked out at about £46 some 35 years ago The bit of kit was a catalyst cartridge, dropped in the fuel tanks at the sender units secured for easy removal on the sender unit with a very thin knitted nylon cord ..... I fitted them to my diesel BX19 TGD, my wife' petrol BX17 RD & my daughters BX leader..... it was made by a company called Broquet . I had cause to take the head off the RD which my wife had had for five or more years because it had a tiny water leak in a rad hose and my wife ignored the warning light as she was only 60 miles away from home , it over heated , warping the head , the speedo showed it had been round the clock at least once . On taking the head off I was surprised to see everything in the cylinders, on the piston heads and on the actual underside of the head & valves heads was as clean as the day it came out the factory , the exhaust manifold was exceedingly clean as well . So as a result of that experience I wonder if putting a Broquet cartridge in the oil tank would help as it is supposed to align the fuel molecules better ( It is a British invention developed in WW2 development to allow Spitfires to run on rubbish Russian petrol ).
That plate heat exchanger (14mins in or so) reminds me of the one I took out of my old Vauxhall Omega (3.2 V6, sitting in the middle of the vee) when it failed and filled the coolant system with oil.. I could have used the ultrasonic bath to get all the milkshake out of the header tank! :)
Would you use straight filtered used motor oil or would you add 50% diesel, let's say as an example mixed with old oil? Also, I'm wondering how transmission fluid would work? Were they harder to start initially?
Hello Sir,I have some questions for you... 1.Do you have to mix Diesel with old engine oil or can you just pure in old engine oil? 2.What else can you pure in with diesel to make It working? Thank you for taking your time for answering,best regards!
old engine oil can be a little tricky. it will make it so you have to clean the burn chamber out a lot. i always recommend adding diesel or kerosene to alternative fuels just to help it burn well. the hotter the burn the better. most "oil" can be burned in these heaters so long as it is not water contaminated. the cleaner the oil the better. it will avoid hard deposits and build up in the burn chamber. most things will burn fine if you mix it with diesel or kerosene.
Alix'x WorkShop Old engine oil contains all kinds of stuff that won’t burn completely and will form some kind of buildup in your burner. (Even though engine oil is designed to leave almost no ashes because that would damage catalytic converters) Apart from that, it might contain substances that are toxic and substances that will form toxic gases when burned. I wouldn’t burn brand new motor oil, let alone used oil. It’s just not worth it.
For the interest of people who like me to experiment I coked one up (my first one) it wasn't hard to work on but my mind thought of the heater plug and controller problem and only took it apart to clean (with ordinary oven cleaner) to cover all bases I thought the thing I missed after connecting rubber pipe to the to the inlet point it was also blocked a quick scrape with a bent paper clip it cracked straight up, summary: I bought bits I didn't need but great for back up, you can clean with oven cleaner, (some may have a better idea but so what there cheap) I probably could have got it going with a bent paperclip but i got some spares and about to enter year two of heating the house only from the heater nothing else
we pretty much always cut it with something to make it a little lighter. waste oil can be thick at times when it's cold which can cause issues.. it also reduces burn chamber Clean out intervals. waste oil holds a lot of micro particle.. when the oil is burned they stick to the burn chamber and need to be scrapped off like in the video.
10:20 The word you're looking for is clinker. Main reason for coking up (imo) is running at lower temps, not the fuel. Always best to burn at max every now & again. Great vid, thanks for posting!
I believe that in large quantities this stuff is called Petroleum Coke, modern steel plants use it to replace the old fashioned coal derived stuff.
How did you come by a Chinese cab heater? All of those things that I’ve seen are Wabesto’s, very much like those that Wabesto provided to VW for beetles in the’50’s. (Air-cooled VW’s not easy to heat in the Great White North.)
Very useful info...
Good to see people keeping things running by taking them apart and cleaning everything out
Keep up the good work!!!!
More please!!!!!
I have more coming soon!
@@johndragonman a simple fix to the fuel change over problem (cooling process) would be to install a 3 port 2 way valve on the inlet fuel pipe supply.
Meaning: start up on kerosene and once hot switch over to the heavy stuff.
This is not good information, it is horrible misinformation and possibly deadly. These heaters do NOT run well on waste oil and can have catastrophic failure as a result. My exhaust caught on fire, turned white hot and if I wasn't in my garage at the time, it may have burnt down. I will be posting a video soon talking about my adventures with my heater caused by misinformation such as what is found in this video.
@@loweredexpectations4927 too much fuel and not enough air. You probably ran it at full bore but they are overrated and should never be used at full fuel flow.
Search for the Vortecks YT channel, he explains it well.
@@loweredexpectations4927 I wouldn't attempt to run on 100% oil anyway, I would dilute it with something clean and thin
The key is to mix the waste oil/diesel/gasoline at roughly 50:40:10 - i just guess as i mix it all in a 5 gallon can. I will run like 25-30 gal of this then a gallon of diesel on high to get it real hot. Ive kept this pattern for like 3 yrs. The hot run of diesel is basically a self cleanse and i get a lot sparks and soot out the pipe
This is a good way. The hotter the better. Just like a DPF regen
If diesel is doing the cleaning then you may as well just run a tank of diesel through every so often and avoid all that faf, which is exactly what diesel car owners do that run them on veg oil.
For anyone wanting to run used motor oil just beware that this is what you'll expect real quick, so if your heater is important just keep running diesel or you'll be without heat at a bad time. I made a diy waste oil heater for my garage a few years ago and even with the burn pot getting red hot that rock like clinker stuff still showed up, and the ash accumulation was incredible, as if i was burning liquid wood. it had to be cleaned and emptied every 4-8 hours of use . It was such a pain in the ass i got rid of it. Just a fair warning to keep people out of trouble as there's lots of interest in free fuel alternatives.
A waste oil heater is not meant to burn oil with a bunch of garbage in it. You need to either let it settle overnight so the particulates and water fall to the bottom, and/or run it through a 10 or higher micron filter, or run it through a waste oil centrifuge. Once this is done it will flow and burn as easily and cleanly as diesel or kerosene.
@@Rattlerjake1 Wonder if you can make a video of your filtration, and how often to do the clean?
@@hvacworkshop4791 - I don't have the ability or time to film and upload (no cell phone).
I initially put my used oil, that I get from multiple sources, into a 55 gallon drum and allow to sit for at least a week to separate any larger solids and water. The drum is in a location where the sun can heat it up so it will filter better. From the drum it is gravity fed to another drum but through a 10 micron filter, which can be cleaned and reused (similar to this -ruclips.net/video/kwmpobsG-O4/видео.html, this also shows the type of pump I use), I don't use a canister type oil filter. From that barrel it is pumped to the centrifuge (this video shows the type of centrifuge I use -ruclips.net/video/3rcbL4eNhFI/видео.html) and the clean oil goes into my storage barrel.
Here's a bunch more vids on different filtering techniques. ruclips.net/user/results?search_query=filtering+waste+oil
Must be why they call it waste oil.
Thank you for the tip ; I have access to hundreds of gallons of used motor oil , transmission fluid , hydraulic fluid and about 1,500 gallons of old ( but clean ) diesel fuel that farmers wanted to discharge because it was contaminated with water and rust while sitting in their storage tanks during the winter , before they wanted to fill their tanks up with fresh diesel in the spring ; ( for free) .
Looks like , with these “ oil burners , people could heat their home , cheaply , with unusable oil products . !!
Tip for u all, if you run the exhaust into a 55 gallon steel drum and then out the house from said drum you get twice the heat..just saying.
that's a great idea
I like that idea
You can breathe diesel exhaust fumes (carbon monoxide) although it will slowly put you to sleep then soon after... 💀
Lol I don't know why I didn't think of that, your a genius
@@drewroe3455 I think he said just put more surface area using the hot exhaust, but the nozzle gonna be out of the house
Just got a Vevero and tried it out I’m very impressed
Got it to heat out green house in Alaska so we can get our vegetables going because of the lack of heat and light
Nice! I recommend a backup though should it fail!
I tried this with mine a year ago with the same results. Maybe I should have made a video of it and saved you the time, lol . Good vid.
You guys are fun to watch, thanks for the chuckle.
that ultra sonic cleaner like sound from 3:50 killed my ears, thanks
Very useful! Good heavens your tool bag is utter chaos.
Got nothing on my life!
Great idea guys, you've got me thinking how to modify the cat flap 🥾
Very interesting. I am making plans to run a plastic gasifier, which gives you a nice sulphur-free diesel and kerosene mix out of the end. Looks like I could burn that nicely.
Hell yes. This exactly what I was looking for and stumbled on the video by accident. Thanks for the information bud!
Maybe you could explain the drum idea please as I don’t quite understand how you would get twice the heat plus out from the house ? Thank great vid and explanation to by the way
The cinder-rock stuff I believe is called clinker, another great video buddy thanks
I heat my whole house with one of these, only have to light the wood stove when it gets below -10c as it cannot keep up below that. There is significant heat loss out the exhaust on these, I vent mine into a masonry chimney and it gets quite warm after running on high for several hours.
my brother was looking at ways of reclaiming exhaust heat using a thing called a EGR cooler to heat water. it works really well! check out his channel at the end :D
@@johndragonman Heat Exchanger would work just as well.
@@killerdeamonking Nicola Tesla will be both smiling and crying🤣
Haha, that was so amusing! I have one of these under my camper and someone parked the diesel supply pipe on top of a tree trunk, flattening it. Turned on the heater and of course it started smoking. Plenty of white smoke! Looks like we'll have to open it up like you showed here and clean out the soot. Thanks guys, very amusing too
white smoke won't soot - white smoke is condensation or if it smells of diesel it is unburnt diesel which probably means it low on compression and ready to die. same theory as the diesel in my 4wd. Black smoke - burning rich WILL soot everything up, you may be able to add a little 10 dollar max valve/tap from the pump to the engine to reduce the fuel and gradually close it until the white smoke stops. Also let it run a few minutes hold your hand 5-10 cm from the exhaust (if it is just steam/condensation) your hand will be wet with water. Hope this Helps
The word that you are looking for is " clinker " the hard remnant of burned coal . Good video, going to try using motor oil cut with diesel in mine .
If you run a secondary tank with only kerosenel and some conditioner that boosts cetane and start it on straight diesel, then switch over to your oil mix and when you shut down switch back to kerosene and run it hot before you shut it down it will stay cleaner longer
Yay i can see the inside without taking mine apart
Beautiful home install. Looks amazing!
I'm working on a better one at the moment. It will let much better than this rigged up contraption
@@johndragonman Love your portable crate version of this tech, There's $$ signs appearing with an outside installation negating many regs coupled with the KW energy supply costs. The math doesn't lie whatever they blame on Putin.....Get it to market guys you may have invented the new cats eyes. I'm placing your first order here👌
A great informative video, i wouldn't use electical conduit as not airtight.. i was wondering why no one puts the exhaust into a 2 or 3 inch verticle flue! it will slow the gases down, and transfer to the larger exhaust pipe which will radiate heat into the room, but would keep it verticle...
The thru air flow is what is needed to stop the unit overheating./..ANY restriction will over heat the unit pcb-ecu. Recuperation of heat on the outside of the exhaust flue will not cause a problem .
@@jimosullivan1389 The through air is the air being heated, the exhaust gases, produce a lot of wasted heat, my point being put the small exhaust into a larger pipe, the gases will slow down, transfer heat to the lager pipe, which can then be radiated, into the living space as apposed into the atmosphere!.. but just what i have learned through experimentation
Maintenance to keep the soot down on these you run them at the highest setting for 30 minutes or more to help Cook out the soot
this one little heater heats the whole house ;) we have it set to the maximum 8hz pump speed and fan speed of 5000 RPM. its been running at 230.c on this batch of "fuel" we have been using with it.. its burning the hottest i have ever seen it in the time i have been using it. its getting way too hot for carbon buildup, but theres nothing i can really do about the buildup of clincker where the fuel is injected. my guess is its all part and parcel of burning used oil as fuel.
i will admit that i think the fan motor is on the way out. my gues is the brushes have worn down. its had some use though. at least i have a spare :D
@@johndragonman yeah I have heard of some fan motors lasting 6 months and some being faulty out of the box. I have mine running on a mix of 70% waste veg oil and 10%xylene 20% white diesel. Doesn't smoke on stock settings but doesn't fire on the first attempt, I have to try once more and it stays running
Late to your responses, my dad had a big oil burner in his shop. A big tank, probably 500 gallons, with a oil filter as it left the tank and another at the inlet.
Anyway I was wondering if you could do a pump thru a luberfiner style filter of all your oil before it ever made it to the tank where it goes into your heater.
Also, heats your whole house, how big is that? Wow!
Great video thanks for your great info .deisel is so expensive now here in New Zealand I am going to run mine on other stuff cheers from Keith 😉🙃
That little mesh screen cylinder is the atomizer screen. For starting, clean that one more often than not as lights the oil as it comes into contact with the glowplug and heats the next chamber where the real heat comes from
Can damage bearing when fan is not running when cleaning with heat like that
Run the fuel line through the exhaust or the heat exchanger to preheat the oil to at least 160f but don't go to hot or carbon will form with some solvents in the fuel line. this will cut down on the build up and will help with restarts after the initial startup. burn chamber need to get above 650F to stay clean fyi. Ps if there is any residual oil b4 650f it will start vaporizing and you may have a bomb on your hands. Don't ask me how I know.
@@braininavatnow9197 unsuccessful experience, i guess
@@braininavatnow9197 Perhaps John Roy Robert Searl was an early tutor
Just curious, has anyone tried putting commercial additives such as redex in the fuel mixture to see if it helps decarbon the unit? You can buy one that is designed to clean the dpf on cars by burning hotter quicker. I've just started looking at these heaters as a potential boost to the household heating system, sorry if I'm asking obvious newb questions. Great vids btw.
This guy is trying to do everything right n is having terrible trouble, the complete opposite of these guys.
He has just added a fuel injector cleaner to his mix, keep an eye on him.
ruclips.net/video/XjquZB_KPCc/видео.html
Did you find any answers to this? I had the same thought of using fuel cleaners
I put some 2ehn in mine for a laugh as I had some laying about. It made no difference (nor did I expect it to). Redex is mainly naptha (aka white spirit)@@Solus
I have been Running used Veg oil in Vehicles for a LONG time. One of the things I am adamant about is running a very basic water injection system in order to prevent and clean out any deposits. It works exceptionaly well and you will always have a perfectly clean engine if you dose it regularly with water.
Normally this is sprayed into the air intake as water in fuel is not good for injector pumps and injectors. I'm wondering if your watery Fuel actually helped keep your Burner cleaner than it may have been otherwise? I can think of for and against reasons But No idea which might be reality.
I am thinking that perhaps some water in the intake might help here. I believe it would have a different action to water being in the fuel. It would only need a very small but constant amount, maybe something like a low pressure stream from something like a hypodermic needle. It would work it's way into the combustion chamber from there. Nothing fancy required.
I am seriously thinking of one of these to heat my house this winter. The seem to be more economical that electric heating for the power out put. If I could run one on 75% WVO, that would be real economical. If the water feed kept them clean, should work till the thing wore out and Like a diesel Vehicle, would made sure they started easily as well.
For an engine I implore people to dry their oil but in this case, I'm leaning more to the wet oil being a good rather than bad thing. It will cause a bit less heat output but probably a very worth while trade off if it helps keep the thing running on Sump Gunk or whatever you feed it.
First of all.. long time subscriber. Now. Thanks for the comment. Yeah ideas thinking of some kind of water mister. So the combustion intake takes that to help clean. It works good on car engines so may on this. Use water mist to clean older cars cat converters.. like the ones in my old fiats from 1991. Always works. They naturally poison the cat so the steam really gets them living again. I ran transformer oil through a car I had years back. Some of the most pure oil you can get. No impurities. More refined than diesel.
How do you process your wvo before putting it in your vehicle?
@@sim6699 There is a vid on it on my channel.
This might be the only really good use for a Peltier deivice and a HHO generator.
It would self meter itself, and serve to clean the chamber. I always wondered if you could use something like an Induction heater style HHO Genrator that way you never have to worry about replacing electrodes.
You could pass High voltage DC with the aid of some Vacuum tubes and a microwave Transformer coupled to a Ignition coil. Water is free since you live in the U.K, so using that to aid in combustion and cleaning would work a treat. Using a High voltage capacitor with an oscillator would be the perfect application for the Peltier device to get power from the heat exchange.
Using something like a wideband sensor would get you the optimum burn, so this really would be the ticket to burn clean and not have to clean it as often if used at low power. It might also help running it full out as you get better fuel metering and hotter burn regardless of the fuel.
Having something simular to a starting fuel computer would allow you to use Cheap old Map gas or Propane to start the thing so you don't see any deposits.
However, I wonder if you could use a cermaic coating that would aid in keeping the deposits from sticking? Hmmm....
My heating boiler didn’t like dexron typed hydraulic oil and coked up much the same on the flame vortex generator! On normal clean used engine oil it is absolutely fine with no smoke or aroma. Mine is diluted significantly in the 250 gal oil tank obviously. Shame to waste good hydrocarbons.
what sonic cleaner do you have , I bought one on ebay and it was £100 and lasted 45 min but because had more than a year so no warranty.
Umm I'll have to check. I bought it from a scrap yard for 15 quid because the heating side failed which was just a thermostat. Replaced that for a fiver and it's fully working again. When I looked it was a £400 brand new!
People love these things dont they 😅 , they are awesome little beasts 👍👍
Any tips on how to clean filter used engine oil please
What are you using for cleaning solution in your ultrasonic?
Honestly the best way to clean this out initially and for the final scrub is Mr. Muscle foam oven cleaner. The amount of engines, intakes and exhaust headers I've cleaned in my time with that stuff is unreal. It just anhiliates any carbon build up from anything.
Vag vvts.. ffs. Best thing for freeing them up!
Great for cleaning sooty deposits but it’s based on sodium hydroxide and will eat aluminium components. Used it on a stainless pan years ago and it ate through the aluminium rivets.
Hell just run automotive desiel with filter and blast it hard every now and again ay
Same problem here running it months on end just red diesel tho. I used a propane torch, a compressor with air chuck. Get the soot to burn then feed it air!
You have to start them on diesel or kerosene and end them on diesel or kerosene . Otherwise you will get buildup. Preheat the dirty oil a little too off the exhaust gases and you will get a better burn. You would have to make a copper preheat coil or something. Don't overheat the oil though..but the exhaust don't make a lot of heat. Just gotta keep enough below flash point at all fuel flow settings.
I worked at a auto shop some yrs ago, We used the waste engine oil, transmission oil, power steering fluid ect... a low flow pump inside the 250Gal holding tank had a fine "net" filter to catch the large particals , the burn chamber was simply a cantained chamber the blew flame against fire brick, then out the chimny/stack of the shop. We cleaned it once a month, ash, filters ect. Was a dirty job and a dedicated wet/dry vaccum and hose for it. lol I assume if one mixed clean fuel with used oil, it may go longer between cleanings? or in a smaller heater case, a tank of clean fuel for every X tank of used oil? those shop used oil heaters also used compressed air (15psi) to assest in atomizing the used fuel to burn. I assume the nasty-er the oil or thickness more air Psi might be needed for atomazation? of course in these small heaters, we rely on the little fuel ticker pump for pressure and what ever the injector nozzel does at XX psi of pressure. Just some food for thought. I bought one of these all built inside the "red case" as a "tent/camping" heater. I have a few low budget solar panels and some auto batteries in case main power goes out. I can heat a part of the home or shop. I never looked into parts/gaskets ect for these, as for who and where they were built, I felt they were dispossable if torn aprt for a "diy " service. at that auto shop that had the used oil heater, I would dump a 5 gal can a new diesel fuel into the 250Gal used oil tank . Seemed to burn a little cleaner with that sort of mix when we would service it once a month. I thought of some sort of fuel filter inline on this little heater I have now, your video has fed me, food for thought!! cheers!!
Adding a 5gal diesel into a 250gal used oil tank is not enough, IMHO. There should be at least a mixer to keep that substance homogeneous.
@@ugisgavars1360 In a used oil burner, the contaminats IN the used oil burns fine. The used oil buner/heater in the shop I worked in was inside, Heating say, 60f air to a comfortable 68f. I do agree if the heater is drawing in outside air and blowing it into the shop, yes, diesel mixed with 250gal storage tank helps, but 2 gallons of gasoline works alot better. Also, compressed air is your atomizer to burn used engine oil, atf ect. Adjusting the air pressure up a little for better atomazation say, 17psi vs the 15 psi the factory recomends burns a little better. I guess my point is, now that I been running one of these china units for the past 2 weeks 24/7 during our cold snap here in Colorado, 1 half gallon of gasoline per 5 gal of diesel seems to render longer times between fills and messing witt the settings (fuel pump Hz) managed to keep a 1200sqft Modular home @68F at night during -10F, and 70-73F when temps were above 20F. But for someone to buy one of these heaters and dump used oil into ? nah, won't work or for very long. especialy during a cold start up. I did a 50/50 used oil and diesel mix. If it was already up to temp and filled while it was running, it kept running, it chugged black smoke til I turned the setting down to middle, then it cleaned up. but try and restart it on a cold start, no dice. I took mine apart , cleaned it and went back to just diesel until I could verify it was "ok". Then wentt to the gas/diesel mix. Been running fine for 2 weeks..lol I did buy a second unit incase I messed this one up. BTW my unit is out side the kitchen window. Not indoors. I will modify the unit with a short dryer hose to draw in inside air through the unit so it will slow down the burn rate of fuel. maybe... easyer to heat 68f air than 0 -40F air. I will also advise not to burn Soybean oil in these, I tried a 70 soybean oil 30 Diesel mix, clogged up the fuel line and just didn't burn well at all. I can post a quick yt video on my account as long as nobody calls OSHA... (humor/kinda)
I used to clean my ganja pipe in a similar way with a blow torch🤣❤️
I ran mine for two days on black diesel 70% oil and 30% gasoline. I had to clean it out because it looked just like yours.
I think I would try Berryman-B12 in my diesel to help keep it clean ?. Just a thought.
I've got a Finnsonic ultrasonic cleaner from the side of the road. It seems a bit impotent. It does blow holes in tin foil, bur generally seems a bit tame.
21:10 The N/S "polarity" of the magnets stuck into fan is important. The Hall Effect sensor only detects one side of the magnet.
That's only half true. Hall sensors produce a measurable, proportional, and signed output for both poles. What's most likely the cause here is that the measuring electronics _after_ the sensor is set to measure the excursion in the output only in one direction, not both. Don't blame the sensor element.
Thanks for this thorough test; That's amazing that it's happily run on anything flammable, I'm increasingly more interested in getting one of these for the workshop now, given I can get loads of used veg oil and motor oil. Just thinking about the AFR on it; it's a shame there's not a sightglass into the burn chamber so you can set it for a nice blue flame (like those old Gunsons colortune things for petrol engines)
could you do the same thing by using an O2 sensor or a wideband sensor to go ahead and basically get the efficient blue flame but without a psych class? Would that work?
@@MickeyMishra That's how they do it in modern engines, yes. O2 sensors are expensive though.
They do NOT run happily on anything flammable. The information in this video is false and dangerous. This person is not telling the truth about something... I suspect hundreds of people have tried using these heaters on waste oils as a result of this video, and from what I have seen, no one else gets these results... I have had mine for two weeks and it almost burnt my garage down twice.
Hello. Is that the 5 kw all in one 12 volt diesel heater, did you make any adjustments before you started, do you have a fuel filter on your fuel line. Tks
hey there, yes it was the 5kw 12v heater. i made no modifications besides adjusting the fan/pump speeds in the pass worded menu. the aim is to get the thing burning as hot as you can with the lowest pump speed. yes i used a very fine filter. i think i just used a 0.5 micron filter sock to filter oil through before using it. i sadly do not have any of this kit anymore as i sold it all when the UK laws changed on burning waste oil.
@@johndragonman hello were would i get settings tks
@@martinmorgan8475 it's more of a trial and error thing. A air quality monitor helps too as you are trying to get it to read the smallest particulates as the smaller they are the better the burn and the less chance it will soot up. It's how I got so long before cleaning.
that looked way better than mine than ran 5 months 24/7 on diesel
What brand is your ultrasonic bath? I have been thinking of getting one but want to choose one that works and there is lots of crap out there.
The wicking inside gets dirty and then it won't start. You need to take it apart and spray it with carberator cleaner and blow out the crap with high pressure air.
I think Ide stay away from vegetable oil as it polymerizes to a rock hard plastic like gunk when not completely burned. that's why they presses it to remove the polymers it to run in a diesel engine
Fuel with water is probably what was helping keep it clean!
Would it run on brand new engine oil?
I’ve a lot I’ve not used for many years I can’t use in my current cars.
Cheers.
I tried mixing new 5/20 fully synthetic oil and it didn't burn well. I had neat oil leaking and gurgling from the combustion intake. I'm going to try some HP90 oil with diesel. I guess modern synthetic oil is not designed to burn.
I tried a 50/50 mix used engine oil big fail error 08. Any help please
Thanks. I wanted to know if this would work with other fules and you guys have tried it years ago. This could be usefull for a lot of people just now
Sorry, #1 Diesel and Kerosene are two different fuels. In Canada, when these heaters start to foul, usually by running on #1&2 Diesel, the repair stations run them on clean straight Kerosene for 6 hours or so, if that doesn't cure it, they do a tear down and clean out , similar to the way you did.
Best wishes from the far North.
Great video guys thank you
great video thanks dragon. Ive been burning waste engine oil mixed with kerosene with some old petrol and diesel thrown in. I set up a second tank with valves so i could start it and finish on kerosine. After 2 days it failed and when i opened it i saw it was more clogged up than yours is and had lots of fuel in the first chamber..... Next time i tried alpine mode but after 2 days the same story. I have a newer type fat controller so i cant play with pump or fan settings. Any suggestions? im probably running at 20 percent kerosene with wmo
They do take some setting up, we got ours to burn smoke free. No visible smoke at all from the exhaust. We did have quite a fast fan speed if I remember right. However too fast and it causes the flame to not be hot. The trick I used was to get the exhaust as hot as I could with the lowest pump speed and a high fan speed. I wished I documented it more now but at the time I didn't think it would take off like it has recently. I wished I still had it in operation. I am making another more improved one, but due to the new laws I won't be running it on any kind of waste oil.
@@johndragonman Thanks John, since I dont know how to access the hidden menu on my fat controller maybe I could add another fan to the breather pipe (a hair dryer?) or slow down the fuel delivery with another valve, not that I plan to do anything illegal. Any ideas?
@@freewheelinfranklyn I did consider trying to adapt some old server fans on the intake side to try and force air into the burn chamber..
I am not sure which controller you have but Google should help!
I bought one of those, you can just take it apart and reassemble it? there is no issue with tight tolerances between pieces being out of alignment and such afterwards? (I have not idea, I'm a computer guy)
Yeah you can just take them apart. Some come with an asbestos gasket some come with a steel or aluminium gasket
did you try to use a Arduino to control the burner yet?
Do you do anymore diesel heater fuel working testing?
I would be interested to know if lamp oil can be used as diesel heater fuel?
Lamp oil is kerosene.
Recently cleaned out my diesel heater after an e.10 error. A can of carb cleaner and a pick scrapping the crap out of the carbon and it starts up SO easy.
are you guys burning just straight waste motor oil? are you doing a mix 20% kerosene 80% wmo?
it depends on the thickness of the oil, i try to keep it watery often its burned neat however i just dilute it as its needed with kero
Does it smell when burning hydraulic oil? Because I got access to loads of used hydraulic oil
When it's burning perfect, not really. It's just getting them to burn perfect. No 2 heaters seem to be the same. If you have loads I recommend modifying a smudge pot style burner. See my latest video.
@@johndragonman got a maxpeedingrods one last week so was looking at whether I could use other fuels but top man for putting out great content
@@dariosmith4719 my contents not that good.. I just record things I find interesting in the hope it helps others in some way. Yeah it's good to try things.
Can you do a video with used veg oil ?
will it run on synthetic oil ,and diesel syn blend
Yes this did. Just cut the blend and make the mix quite runny. If it is too thick it will not like to start on it.
Add some eliminox to your fuel it will sort out the water contamination, you'll get a cleaner more efficient burn and better fuel economy, less emissions, it's amazing
Can you point me in the direction of the metal conduit you use to extend the exhaust ? Just looking to do similar. Thanks.
I got it from a scrap yard.. it's the pipe used for gas meters.
@JohnDragonMan I was interested in seeing just how far you have run the output heat duct. How many metres is it? does it still get hot at the far end?
yeah red hot. the duct is about 7 meters. however it is 4 inch duct. so less restrictive. the air coming out the end is well hot enough to heat the house
How long will it run on used engine oil before needing a clean out?
Great test,torture and tear down !!
Awesome thanks for sharing. are you Derbyshire lads by chance?
hey there, yeah. heh how could you tell?
@@johndragonman Im from Derbyshire lol, I know Derbyshire when I hear it lol, awesome videos on the heaters and I see you get upto alsorts of stuff so Im subscribed ;-)
@@cubleycat ahh thanks. most of my videos are nothing good but some odd ones are ok. :D
So these would run on old chip oil?
from experience, it gums them up and if the oil is stored outside it just goes like gel and wont pump due to the cold.
Have you tried running on straight waste vegetable oil? Do you have to heat or mix it with other fuel?
Is it not illegal to burn old engine oil without a licence.
it is now days :( the licence is £7000 a year. yet its going to get burned anyway somewhere else. somehow burning heavily taxed single use oil is perfectly legal.
not much structure, but many words at this interesting project.fine, thanks.
Before we built I was running a 900W 2 stroke generator and the muffler became clogged and I tried burning out the soot build up with no luck so now I thinking of convert it to steam
Great work review
The black hard bits is calked Coke.
Coke is a grey, hard, and porous fuel with a high carbon content and few impurities, made by heating coal or oil in the absence of air - a destructive distillation process. It is an important industrial product, used mainly in iron ore smelting, but also as a fuel in stoves and forges when air pollution is a concern. Wikipedia :)
Cocaine is helluva drug
@@andrewbartleman9169 Same burn out problem
Hi John, great video I was just wondering what are best advanced settings on the controller
As I am using old engine oil and kerosene 50/50 and I've had oil coming out of the the breather pipe so I had to strip it all down and clean it all out.
It's different for all burners.. you kinda have to find what's best for yours. One of mine loves to have a full fan speed on both low and high settings.. the other needs to have the fan speed half way in the same settings. Start the burner off so it's running and gone through its heat up cycle the just experiment with the first 2 fan speed settings in the advanced menu.
Keep the wire mesh around the glow plug clean and it will work well when set up. Try to get the fan speed low enough so its not burning and producing smoke.. but fast enough that it's not blowing the flame out.
Can take some time to perfect.
@@johndragonman
Hi John, thank you for getting back to me it helped a lot, keep up the good work,
Kind regards Paul
The reason it runs so clean is because of the high water content. Hydraulic oil absorbs water and water is great to de-carbonize hot carbon off of things. Spray water into a hot engine to clean carbon off of valves and stuff.
You might not get as much build up if you start up on pure diesel or paraffin and when it's hot switch to alternative fuels.
Yes this is true. It would definitely help starting.
Could you mix waist oil with red Diesil ?
Yes absolutely. The more you mix it, the better it becomes when it's really cold.
@@johndragonman Thanks👍
Would vegetable oil run thru these?
Technically yes.. but you need to get it really hot first. The issue with it is that it really gums up the internals.
Hi John, Is this one of those cheap chinese diesel heaters you picked up from eBay about a £100? If so, I am surprised it is do robust.
Yeah they are pretty tough things.
Aaah, thinking of getting a campervan in the near future. So you recommend a chinese diesel heater over one of those more reputable one?
I actually do. The "reputable" brands add things into the software that locks them out if they fail to start a few times.. which then need to be unlocked by a service tech. These cheaper ones are just as good.. they have no lockouts and parts are very cheap. I do recommend them.
Years ago I decided to fit a highly recommended item to all our cars as we were knocking up the mileage, fuel economy , clean burning , good fuel economy etc was a priority .as we were doing almost 1100 miles a week between us .
So I put a Slick friction reducer in all three engines at the recommended rate and added a bit of kit that worked out at about £46 some 35 years ago
The bit of kit was a catalyst cartridge, dropped in the fuel tanks at the sender units secured for easy removal on the sender unit with a very thin knitted nylon cord ..... I fitted them to my diesel BX19 TGD, my wife' petrol BX17 RD & my daughters BX leader..... it was made by a company called Broquet .
I had cause to take the head off the RD which my wife had had for five or more years because it had a tiny water leak in a rad hose and my wife ignored the warning light as she was only 60 miles away from home , it over heated , warping the head , the speedo showed it had been round the clock at least once . On taking the head off I was surprised to see everything in the cylinders, on the piston heads and on the actual underside of the head & valves heads was as clean as the day it came out the factory , the exhaust manifold was exceedingly clean as well .
So as a result of that experience I wonder if putting a Broquet cartridge in the oil tank would help as it is supposed to align the fuel molecules better ( It is a British invention developed in WW2 development to allow Spitfires to run on rubbish Russian petrol ).
That plate heat exchanger (14mins in or so) reminds me of the one I took out of my old Vauxhall Omega (3.2 V6, sitting in the middle of the vee) when it failed and filled the coolant system with oil.. I could have used the ultrasonic bath to get all the milkshake out of the header tank! :)
Could you please link to your brother's channel. I've searched and can't find it.
@forenamesurname4576
ive added it to the description :)
I've got a ton of used oil to burn up. I would love to throw some through a heater like this. Think it would burn better with a mix of diesel?
absolutely. filter it as best as you can! helps prevent the build up of clinker!
Would you use straight filtered used motor oil or would you add 50% diesel, let's say as an example mixed with old oil? Also, I'm wondering how transmission fluid would work? Were they harder to start initially?
They liked used oil already quite warm the hotter the better. Yes I would cut it with diesel when it's cold. The more filtered the better too.
Does new clean hydraulic oil burn well?
The used stuff does ;)
Hello Sir,I have some questions for you...
1.Do you have to mix Diesel with old engine oil or can you just pure in old engine oil?
2.What else can you pure in with diesel to make It working?
Thank you for taking your time for answering,best regards!
old engine oil can be a little tricky. it will make it so you have to clean the burn chamber out a lot. i always recommend adding diesel or kerosene to alternative fuels just to help it burn well. the hotter the burn the better. most "oil" can be burned in these heaters so long as it is not water contaminated. the cleaner the oil the better. it will avoid hard deposits and build up in the burn chamber. most things will burn fine if you mix it with diesel or kerosene.
Alix'x WorkShop
Old engine oil contains all kinds of stuff that won’t burn completely and will form some kind of buildup in your burner. (Even though engine oil is designed to leave almost no ashes because that would damage catalytic converters)
Apart from that, it might contain substances that are toxic and substances that will form toxic gases when burned.
I wouldn’t burn brand new motor oil, let alone used oil. It’s just not worth it.
For the interest of people who like me to experiment I coked one up (my first one) it wasn't hard to work on but my mind thought of the heater plug and controller problem and only took it apart to clean (with ordinary oven cleaner) to cover all bases I thought the thing I missed after connecting rubber pipe to the to the inlet point it was also blocked a quick scrape with a bent paper clip it cracked straight up, summary: I bought bits I didn't need but great for back up, you can clean with oven cleaner, (some may have a better idea but so what there cheap) I probably could have got it going with a bent paperclip but i got some spares and about to enter year two of heating the house only from the heater nothing else
Are there versions that heat up water instead of air ?
Yes! You can get them from some cars. Google "ThermoTop"
Anythingk or anything?
What model is this thanks
I wonder if that thing could clean out blocked cats
Willl kerosene clean it ?
Only manually cleaning it will remove the clinker from the burn chamber sadly.
Is there a link to this heater
A review in the rain 🥶 aaah
Hello good video do you run yours on waste oil or a mix thanks
we pretty much always cut it with something to make it a little lighter. waste oil can be thick at times when it's cold which can cause issues.. it also reduces burn chamber Clean out intervals. waste oil holds a lot of micro particle.. when the oil is burned they stick to the burn chamber and need to be scrapped off like in the video.