Nice one Dan, this is great. Really enjoyed this. Never have to justify anything on your rig mate. Your rig, your money, you work hard for it. Install whatever TF you like and I'll do the same on mine.
For the solar panels on my RTT, I too went for the fixed panels for the same reasons you've pointed out, but mostly for its durability and better mounting options. Since they will be mounted permanently, those two latter points is what I prioritised. And 5 years on, they still work like a charm.
Have you run a test for this? I’m pretty sure if you play Boston - More than a feeling inside the cab you will not hear boo from the plastic sheathed cable inside a plastic snorkel outside the cabin.
Hugely impressive and I'm impressed. The solar panels look slick and are very streamlined. I like how you wired them in. Cool party light, too. Like the use of the trailer wire and connectors. Brilliant. Great set up.
I ran my wire through the gap at the base of the windscreen up the edge of the windscreen. Tarzan grip double sided tape is awesome 3 years later it was still stuck down.
4x4 Knight Rider.. Kit would blush. Great Vid, great rig, your a great presenter. wouldn't be surprised if some company wanted you to do their media.. keep it knocking it out the park.
I've got a KickAss 350W panel on my KINGS RTT, running through a KINGS 20A MPPT. AGM Battery is constantly charged up with just solar setup. More than enough to keep my fridge running in the Ute. Eventually, I will switch to Lithium. ❤❤🎉🎉
The only I would change is run the solar panels through a victron 100/30 mppt regulator because bcdc chargers are very limited on charging from to inputs. I swapped our 80 series to this and the system works 200% better
I find that a lot of people don't think about is when installing a solar panel is if you a DCDC that can only use one side at a time which sucks like if you 300watt of solar you can't pull the full power you want ie from the engine. i think having the all of the charge equipment sprite means can use all of the watts available and can charge a lot quicker.
As an 80 Series owner, I was so looking forward to this morning, just to see the start of Paddy's rebuild. & after hitting play, I see Dan's face with his bloody red Patrol on the screen. That's when my depression hit. Now don't get me wrong, I do have a man crush on Dan, & I love watching him working, but I have been anticipating the start of the Mighty 80 rebuild! Happy trails, Cowpokes
Well noted that the negative carries all the combined current of the positives. You see a lot of trailers wired with the bare minimum rated cable because the lights only draw a small account of current. The combined current of Brakes, Brake lights, indicators and Tail lamps in an emergency braking situation can add up very quickly, and if the installer is stupid enough to use Reverse pin-2 for “Auxiliary” (for a Hydraulic brake pump, for instance), you have a real chance of burning out the earth.
Dan nice install except why the steel frame and fixed panels ? That's a lot of extra weight on top of an already heavy RTT (77kg) each panel weighs 9.32kg lets say 19kg with bolts etc plus probably 10kg -15kg of steel frame so around 30-35Kg extra weight, if you opted for 2 x flexible panels (3.4kg each) and made a 25mm Aluminium frame underneath for cooling screw the panel corners to the frame and Sika the edges you would be all up less than 10kg for 400w of solar instead of 300w of heavy fixed panels, MC4 are used because the have high electrical conductivity, UV resistant, easy to install and waterproof, ,Latest 12v solar standards state you must fuse each panel and DC isolate the panels would be good to have shown this as it's very important with solar for safety / insurance reasons.
Solar panels have mc4’s because they are ip68, while at 18v water doesn’t matter, when you have a heap connected in series (like houses) you can get anywhere from 100v to 600v. From experience that high voltage doesn’t mix well with water.
MC4 connectors over Anderson for weather protection, as they are IP68 as default (when connected correctly), over Anderson which has little to no water ingress protection (from default plugs). Also the panels on their own are almost 19kg, so with the metal frame and rails, I'd have to say at least 30kg for the whole setup. Lucky it's a clam shell, and struts can be changed for larger open force. Looks mint!
Good idea i ran truck trailer wiring as well because all my loads negative required the bigger cable then the standard and i did not want 7 wires running up to the roof, hid mine behind the snorkel and it just sits there 👌🏽
Great job Dan, very informative, thanks. 05:00 Unless you have a 'smart' MPPT Controller, the panels produce no charge while the vehicle engine is on as the DC-DC Charger won't allow it (unless, it's a 'smart' DC-DC Charger, which most aren't). I'm guessing that 3-4mm cable is not getting too hot? I use 4 or 6mm squared cable for solar, not 3-4 thickness. That said, have you looked at the solar input while the engine is running? Is it there or not? Just askin'.
You should have a look at how the Outfit mounted their stick on panels - them mounted them to corflute - plastic board that has channels through it that allows for airflow.
Looks great. I would run the wiring out just above your A pillar bracket. This way if you wanted to spin your ram head around you can & have less chance of snagging the wires looping out higher up 🤠
buying a deutsch connector pin crimper thingo tool made life way easier when i had to redo the dodgy wiring job i inherited when i bought a ute from a dodgy kid a while back. wouldn't use anything else nowdays
The new rules state you need to individually fuse each solar panel at the positive lines I believe. You can get solar panel fuses that go between your solar specific connectors. But then again, the new rules also say you'd need to store your lithium battery in a sealed area vented to the outside too! Better be safe and compliant bud, so you'd be safe and your insurances will honour a claim if need be. Love your work, and I'm in Heidelberg not far from you guys, would love to catchup one of these days!
Great work Dan. I’d say this is one of the perfect set ups I’ve seen. The only thing I’d say “may be an issue is those rock lights hang out a bit ay. They could get hung up some. Still I love the party light nice and neat and unique. Cheers.
Are you common grounding both solar panels to the car? Before you get to the charge controller? Is that what you did? If so you are grounding 19v into a 12 to 13.8V system? I just got that picture into my head from what you explained! Apologies if I got that wrong but I just need to make sure.
With your wiring for the solar panels, I feel the gauge of wire is too thin, especially for the length. There would be some voltage drop, with your max calculated input of 18+ amps.
Nice work, although I would of removed the fame you made for the solar panels completely and mounted the panels directly to the RTT roof bars would of meant there would need to be a bar in-between the panels but would of thought the the max trax at the back can share the roof bar that the solar panel is using.
I understand why you did this, however I chose to use the Stedi sick on windscreen channel. less destructive, and i am still super happy with the look.
Great video,Dan. now i know how to connect my spare solar panel. as for justifying the lights,because you can is the best. great description of what you are doing,and how you get the wiring etc so neat makes me jealous,😄,my wiring compared to yours looks like spaghetti.Another great job, keep em coming. BTW, we dont have daylight savings so your vid hits at 8am 👍
Great work! Impress thinking/ attention to detail. Makes me feel more resolved in paying an auto-electrician to do this sort of stuff for my car though, I'd definitely stuff it up! 🤣
Hey Dan you could of also come off the back of the rack and gone in the vents behind the side rear windows , no drilling of the snorkel? Wouldn't that of worked the same?
I'll weigh in on the armchair criticism. 🙃 Extend the slot for the ram head, front and rear for the cable to pass through, that way you could still reverse the head.
I'd be a bit worried with the length and size cable you chose for the solar, it's a rather long path with small gauge wire, going right to the front of the car and then back to the battery. Did you consider just going down the back, it would have been a much shorter path? Have you tested for voltage drop? I've got 1x 180w panel and in the summer get 12-15 amps out of it once converted through the dcdc, with it just mounted flat on the roof.
The software I'm guessing is NightDriverLED by Dave Plumber, I'm looking at a similar setup myself! I like the look of that controller, looks really sweet
Great video. But id rather flexible panels that put our less due to lack of air flow. Installing solid panels. Prolly put your litres per 100 up by halfa litre. Great video tho
Ok, so when is your mate going to start making those party lights to sell... We can all see it coming 😂 And who doesnt want party lights under their roof top tent 😉
Wouldn't worry to much about the punters 'strong opinions' Dan... you are doing stuff while we are wasting time on youtube. Great vid, I reckon you did some clever work here!
G’day mate mate, I got a Toyota hiace I need a camping spot around Brisbane. I don’t want to drive 100 CASE over something free close to the water I’m really sick to using app and website all bullshit man there’s another show me real things
Nice one Dan, this is great. Really enjoyed this. Never have to justify anything on your rig mate. Your rig, your money, you work hard for it. Install whatever TF you like and I'll do the same on mine.
I love how the music they are using is from kerbel space program sometimes hahaha
Now we want a play through kerbal space program 2..... would be awesome
@@damanics7972don’t make me cry mate. So much potential lost on it 😭😭😭
Good one Dan. With those LEDs, you're definitely well and trully a Patrol owner now. 😁
For the solar panels on my RTT, I too went for the fixed panels for the same reasons you've pointed out, but mostly for its durability and better mounting options. Since they will be mounted permanently, those two latter points is what I prioritised. And 5 years on, they still work like a charm.
Hey Dan, in my opinion i wouldn’t run it through the snorkel because it will rattle while driving. I would have got stedi roof light wiring concealer.
I was thinking about the rattle too , find out later I guess
Have you run a test for this? I’m pretty sure if you play Boston - More than a feeling inside the cab you will not hear boo from the plastic sheathed cable inside a plastic snorkel outside the cabin.
Be interesting to know if it would rattle and make noise. Good point. But great idea tho forward thinking especially with the 7 core trailer wiring.
Hugely impressive and I'm impressed. The solar panels look slick and are very streamlined. I like how you wired them in. Cool party light, too. Like the use of the trailer wire and connectors. Brilliant. Great set up.
I ran my wire through the gap at the base of the windscreen up the edge of the windscreen. Tarzan grip double sided tape is awesome 3 years later it was still stuck down.
You could have run it up the door were the seatbelt are and thought the roof just one hole and would not see it +slicon.
Dan: I dont really need solar for camping. Also Dan: Lets put two panels of 300 watt in in case its cloudy. You really are the man.
I drilled a hole in my roof for my 80. Use the wiring Gromit been like that five years and no leaks.
4x4 Knight Rider.. Kit would blush. Great Vid, great rig, your a great presenter. wouldn't be surprised if some company wanted you to do their media.. keep it knocking it out the park.
I've got a KickAss 350W panel on my KINGS RTT, running through a KINGS 20A MPPT. AGM Battery is constantly charged up with just solar setup. More than enough to keep my fridge running in the Ute. Eventually, I will switch to Lithium. ❤❤🎉🎉
The only I would change is run the solar panels through a victron 100/30 mppt regulator because bcdc chargers are very limited on charging from to inputs.
I swapped our 80 series to this and the system works 200% better
I find that a lot of people don't think about is when installing a solar panel is if you a DCDC that can only use one side at a time which sucks like if you 300watt of solar you can't pull the full power you want ie from the engine.
i think having the all of the charge equipment sprite means can use all of the watts available and can charge a lot quicker.
As an 80 Series owner, I was so looking forward to this morning, just to see the start of Paddy's rebuild. & after hitting play, I see Dan's face with his bloody red Patrol on the screen. That's when my depression hit. Now don't get me wrong, I do have a man crush on Dan, & I love watching him working, but I have been anticipating the start of the Mighty 80 rebuild!
Happy trails, Cowpokes
Dam it why did you remind me about the 80s, I don't mind the GQ actually🤘
Well noted that the negative carries all the combined current of the positives.
You see a lot of trailers wired with the bare minimum rated cable because the lights only draw a small account of current. The combined current of Brakes, Brake lights, indicators and Tail lamps in an emergency braking situation can add up very quickly, and if the installer is stupid enough to use Reverse pin-2 for “Auxiliary” (for a Hydraulic brake pump, for instance), you have a real chance of burning out the earth.
Thank you, never really thought about the the “negative lead” upgrade ! 👍🏻
Dan nice install except why the steel frame and fixed panels ? That's a lot of extra weight on top of an already heavy RTT (77kg) each panel weighs 9.32kg lets say 19kg with bolts etc plus probably 10kg -15kg of steel frame so around 30-35Kg extra weight, if you opted for 2 x flexible panels (3.4kg each) and made a 25mm Aluminium frame underneath for cooling screw the panel corners to the frame and Sika the edges you would be all up less than 10kg for 400w of solar instead of 300w of heavy fixed panels, MC4 are used because the have high electrical conductivity, UV resistant, easy to install and waterproof, ,Latest 12v solar standards state you must fuse each panel and DC isolate the panels would be good to have shown this as it's very important with solar for safety / insurance reasons.
Solar panels have mc4’s because they are ip68, while at 18v water doesn’t matter, when you have a heap connected in series (like houses) you can get anywhere from 100v to 600v. From experience that high voltage doesn’t mix well with water.
Good on you Dan. Should be proud of your rig!
Well done, always very professional Dan
MC4 connectors over Anderson for weather protection, as they are IP68 as default (when connected correctly), over Anderson which has little to no water ingress protection (from default plugs). Also the panels on their own are almost 19kg, so with the metal frame and rails, I'd have to say at least 30kg for the whole setup. Lucky it's a clam shell, and struts can be changed for larger open force. Looks mint!
Good idea i ran truck trailer wiring as well because all my loads negative required the bigger cable then the standard and i did not want 7 wires running up to the roof, hid mine behind the snorkel and it just sits there 👌🏽
Great job Dan, very informative, thanks.
05:00 Unless you have a 'smart' MPPT Controller, the panels produce no charge while the vehicle engine is on as the DC-DC Charger won't allow it (unless, it's a 'smart' DC-DC Charger, which most aren't).
I'm guessing that 3-4mm cable is not getting too hot? I use 4 or 6mm squared cable for solar, not 3-4 thickness.
That said, have you looked at the solar input while the engine is running? Is it there or not? Just askin'.
You should have a look at how the Outfit mounted their stick on panels - them mounted them to corflute - plastic board that has channels through it that allows for airflow.
Looks great. I would run the wiring out just above your A pillar bracket. This way if you wanted to spin your ram head around you can & have less chance of snagging the wires looping out higher up 🤠
Nice work Dan.👌LED party lights look smick.👍
Deutsch connectors are underrated! Once you get used to them you'll never want to use anything else.
buying a deutsch connector pin crimper thingo tool made life way easier when i had to redo the dodgy wiring job i inherited when i bought a ute from a dodgy kid a while back. wouldn't use anything else nowdays
The new rules state you need to individually fuse each solar panel at the positive lines I believe. You can get solar panel fuses that go between your solar specific connectors. But then again, the new rules also say you'd need to store your lithium battery in a sealed area vented to the outside too! Better be safe and compliant bud, so you'd be safe and your insurances will honour a claim if need be. Love your work, and I'm in Heidelberg not far from you guys, would love to catchup one of these days!
The sealed area for lithium is only for habitable areas, i.e., where you sleep in a caravan or canopy.
@nc1183 I think habitable areas includes the cabin too mate.
The new rules says for 3 or more panels need to be fused individually.
Great video, very neat install.
At first I was sceptical of the snorkel idea but it turned out really neat good work 🤙
Love it Dan!
Great work Dan. I’d say this is one of the perfect set ups I’ve seen. The only thing I’d say “may be an issue is those rock lights hang out a bit ay. They could get hung up some. Still I love the party light nice and neat and unique. Cheers.
Are you common grounding both solar panels to the car? Before you get to the charge controller? Is that what you did? If so you are grounding 19v into a 12 to 13.8V system?
I just got that picture into my head from what you explained! Apologies if I got that wrong but I just need to make sure.
With your wiring for the solar panels, I feel the gauge of wire is too thin, especially for the length. There would be some voltage drop, with your max calculated input of 18+ amps.
i would have definitly soldered the connecters. only need a tiny bit but will stop them from ripping out too easy if the wiring gets tugged on
Any chance you made some footage of the inverter install
Keen to see how that come together
The leds at the start had me interested
Nice work, although I would of removed the fame you made for the solar panels completely and mounted the panels directly to the RTT roof bars would of meant there would need to be a bar in-between the panels but would of thought the the max trax at the back can share the roof bar that the solar panel is using.
Great job Dan👍
I understand why you did this, however I chose to use the Stedi sick on windscreen channel. less destructive, and i am still super happy with the look.
Great video,Dan. now i know how to connect my spare solar panel. as for justifying the lights,because you can is the best. great description of what you are doing,and how you get the wiring etc so neat makes me jealous,😄,my wiring compared to yours looks like spaghetti.Another great job, keep em coming. BTW, we dont have daylight savings so your vid hits at 8am 👍
Great work! Impress thinking/ attention to detail. Makes me feel more resolved in paying an auto-electrician to do this sort of stuff for my car though, I'd definitely stuff it up! 🤣
Hey Dan you could of also come off the back of the rack and gone in the vents behind the side rear windows , no drilling of the snorkel? Wouldn't that of worked the same?
I'll weigh in on the armchair criticism. 🙃
Extend the slot for the ram head, front and rear for the cable to pass through, that way you could still reverse the head.
Top setup Dan
Always banging on about a budget build lol, then keeps spending like theres no limit. Theres a big difference between our ideas of a budget build
Dan is the best 🙌🙌
Awesome job guys🤘
I'd be a bit worried with the length and size cable you chose for the solar, it's a rather long path with small gauge wire, going right to the front of the car and then back to the battery. Did you consider just going down the back, it would have been a much shorter path? Have you tested for voltage drop? I've got 1x 180w panel and in the summer get 12-15 amps out of it once converted through the dcdc, with it just mounted flat on the roof.
The software I'm guessing is NightDriverLED by Dave Plumber, I'm looking at a similar setup myself! I like the look of that controller, looks really sweet
Is the trailer wire heavy enough considering the panels are rated around 17amps combined?
Thanks lads.
Great video, highly detailed!
Great video. But id rather flexible panels that put our less due to lack of air flow. Installing solid panels. Prolly put your litres per 100 up by halfa litre. Great video tho
Brilliant!
Where do I get a set of them leds from mate.
Sundays are made better thanks to you boys! Cheers
Thanks mate !!
Yewww. Sunday made.
Would love to get one of those rgbw controllers and strip. Would you or anyone know where to get them from.
Ok, so when is your mate going to start making those party lights to sell... We can all see it coming 😂
And who doesnt want party lights under their roof top tent 😉
love the content bro
Dan the man
can we get a review of the tb42 pls
Well presented and informative even if you were new to solar and certain plugs.
Love the "essential" disco lights.
(No like button)
You know it’s a real “Man shed” when they have two Weber bbq’s
I couldn't figure out why Dan looked younger, then I realised he lost the beard!
Hello great video love watching y'all videos. Why don't we ever see him on the videos going camping and other things a lot ???????
What more holes in the body. ?
OK you did minimise any holes
Number 1!!!
Wouldn't worry to much about the punters 'strong opinions' Dan... you are doing stuff while we are wasting time on youtube. Great vid, I reckon you did some clever work here!
dans had a trim up haha
Please eat, bro 🙏
Awesome video
You're stranded out bush. You want to be seen from the air - LED's!
Gum boys sorry I’m late 😂
All good 😂😂
They are not RGBW lights. They are Rav party lights 🌈🚦🕺🪩
Im surprised that all that wattage from solar panels could be run just through that thin wires.
More camping vids soon boys?
Sealykin
❤
G’day mate mate, I got a Toyota hiace I need a camping spot around Brisbane. I don’t want to drive 100 CASE over something free close to the water I’m really sick to using app and website all bullshit man there’s another show me real things
7:00-9:00 minutes in, did you set the camera to porno? The zooming in and out was crazy
First to the best channel on RUclips
Too kind 🙏
O Geez, clean the inside of your engine bay and under the bonnet please and thank you
Nice...like a bought one😂
The consummate professional. We need more big D. Liam take note: big Dan speaks without saying 'like' every second word. 😂
Jesus Dan, do you have a nothing box in your brain 😂
has dan Lost some weight he's looking great
Dan got brain but do dumb things. 😂😂😂😂
Geez thanks for all the onlyfan ads YT. 🤬
Way too much talk and not enough do in this video. Talk while you are putting it on.
🤫
damn bro, I dont see you making videos
@@KickStandUp. I am not making comments to be a dick. I am making comments so that they can make more interesting videos in the future.
Thank you, never really thought about the the “negative lead” upgrade ! 👍🏻
Dan the man