I enjoy watching your videos! I'm a tile contractor on the east cost about your age. I think it's great how you talk about other aspects of the business rather than just the work. Keep posting videos. Thanks
I like your approach to the mud bed. I found a pool trowel works nice at the end to smooth it out but that could also be the mud I use too. Don't know if you ever tried anything different with curbs but I build a form every time and use the Rapid Set brand concrete mix with re-bar. Works like a charm everytime because I can make it perfectly level across and build in my inward pitch too. That concrete mix fires off quick too
You got some good skills brother 👍🏻 With all the new products nowadays it seems a waste, but just like your walls ppl won't take time to float if there's faster ways. Sometimes self-satisfaction is what you get out of a job. But loving your vids 👌🏻
Thanks. There will always be a demand for craftsmanship. Not every client wants whatever can be done the fastest. Those aren’t my jobs or my clients typically.
Love your work mark, you do know im one of your biggest followers, PE here, after doing thousands i found a easy way, just dump drypack on one side make well pour some water mix it around and trow to other side and start shaping, yes you are right every single tiler has a different way
You are an honest man; learning to do dry pack floors perfectly flat as you do is not easy. I love the Idea of your using "Pitch Dots" ! What are they made of and How did you make them for a floor that may have differences in level. Also how do you mix and handle dry pack on a warm day? Thanks!
Thanks. The dots are just 2x2 tiles set in mud. Sometimes rapid setting mud. For a floor that’s different pitches and heights I just set the laser for one height and set those dots. Then set the laser to the next height and set those etc. Drypack on a hot day I mix small batches and work fast. Then cover it with plastic when I’m done floating.
Solid mud vid. I actually never did one with mud, but I have to do three int he near future so I better learn quick! lol. I feel like the pegs on each corner would not work on slab though. It's just not square or flat at all.
It will work. We float floors over slab all the time with this method. That’s the whole point. None of the floors are flat so you set the dots into mud with a laser or level to get them all the same height. Just squish it down until it’s where you want it.
@@ConstructionNerd you’ll do fine. I learned without the screed dots. Did it that way for many years. Just plan ahead. Draw some level lines on your walls. Take your time. No need to rush it. You’ve got a few hours with a batch of mud.
Nice work. I like the laser with dots in the corners, seems like a more precise way to do it. Do you ever do a center dot in the back wall that's lower than the corners? Like if you have a long skinny shower the slope can get pretty steep between the drain and the back wall.
With a drain in the corner you end up having an uneven slope which can feel uncomfortable and unnatural to stand on. With a centered drain and correct slope, you don’t even notice that the floor is sloped. But we do whatever our clients ask us to.
@@Tarkustile I understand that as the theoretical problem. Specifically, standing with both feet on the downhill slope (rather than each tilted toward the other) would be uncomfortable. That has not been my experience. The uni-slope is not noticeable, and I never step on the drain. I believe a contractor could help prospective customers decide by mocking up a piece of plywood the shape of the floor and having them stand on it for a few minutes. Just shim three corners accordingly.
So drypack is used because its esyer to make a slope to the drain, compare to wet concrete? I have seen those putting the tiles direct on this drypack before its dried...is that possible?
Correct. And yes you can set tile directly on dry pack IF you already have a pan liner installed under the mud. I don’t do it this way. I install a topical membrane over my mud. Both ways work if done right
@@Tarkustile it seems to me that the tiles will not stick to the mud if not wet enough. I got no concrete slab under only crushed rock like for outdoor patio and plates are not 20 mm thick. Ordinary for indoor. I worry they will crack...
I enjoy watching your videos! I'm a tile contractor on the east cost about your age. I think it's great how you talk about other aspects of the business rather than just the work. Keep posting videos. Thanks
Hey thank you
I like your approach to the mud bed. I found a pool trowel works nice at the end to smooth it out but that could also be the mud I use too. Don't know if you ever tried anything different with curbs but I build a form every time and use the Rapid Set brand concrete mix with re-bar. Works like a charm everytime because I can make it perfectly level across and build in my inward pitch too. That concrete mix fires off quick too
You got some good skills brother 👍🏻
With all the new products nowadays it seems a waste, but just like your walls ppl won't take time to float if there's faster ways. Sometimes self-satisfaction is what you get out of a job.
But loving your vids 👌🏻
Thanks. There will always be a demand for craftsmanship. Not every client wants whatever can be done the fastest. Those aren’t my jobs or my clients typically.
Love your work mark, you do know im one of your biggest followers, PE here, after doing thousands i found a easy way, just dump drypack on one side make well pour some water mix it around and trow to other side and start shaping, yes you are right every single tiler has a different way
Thanks Peter. Yes you’ve been around for a long time. I appreciate your support man.
I so need more practice 😂 great job and explanation 👍
pretty cool way of doing it
You are an honest man; learning to do dry pack floors perfectly flat as you do is not easy. I love the Idea of your using "Pitch Dots" ! What are they made of and How did you make them for a floor that may have differences in level. Also how do you mix and handle dry pack on a warm day? Thanks!
Thanks. The dots are just 2x2 tiles set in mud. Sometimes rapid setting mud. For a floor that’s different pitches and heights I just set the laser for one height and set those dots. Then set the laser to the next height and set those etc. Drypack on a hot day I mix small batches and work fast. Then cover it with plastic when I’m done floating.
Solid mud vid. I actually never did one with mud, but I have to do three int he near future so I better learn quick! lol. I feel like the pegs on each corner would not work on slab though. It's just not square or flat at all.
It will work. We float floors over slab all the time with this method. That’s the whole point. None of the floors are flat so you set the dots into mud with a laser or level to get them all the same height. Just squish it down until it’s where you want it.
@@Tarkustile Perhaps I’ll give it a whirl. How difficult is the learning curve without any screed points? Be it this method or foam strip.
@@ConstructionNerd you’ll do fine. I learned without the screed dots. Did it that way for many years. Just plan ahead. Draw some level lines on your walls. Take your time. No need to rush it. You’ve got a few hours with a batch of mud.
I just found your video. I need to do this in my home. What are the corner pegs made of?
Thank you
Tile and deck mud
Nice work. I like the laser with dots in the corners, seems like a more precise way to do it. Do you ever do a center dot in the back wall that's lower than the corners? Like if you have a long skinny shower the slope can get pretty steep between the drain and the back wall.
Thanks. Yes occasionally we will do that. I prefer to keep the perimeter level if possible but sometimes it would just be too steep.
I like to locate the drain in the corner. Nobody wants to stand on a drain while showering.
With a drain in the corner you end up having an uneven slope which can feel uncomfortable and unnatural to stand on. With a centered drain and correct slope, you don’t even notice that the floor is sloped. But we do whatever our clients ask us to.
@@Tarkustile I understand that as the theoretical problem. Specifically, standing with both feet on the downhill slope (rather than each tilted toward the other) would be uncomfortable. That has not been my experience. The uni-slope is not noticeable, and I never step on the drain. I believe a contractor could help prospective customers decide by mocking up a piece of plywood the shape of the floor and having them stand on it for a few minutes. Just shim three corners accordingly.
So drypack is used because its esyer to make a slope to the drain, compare to wet concrete? I have seen those putting the tiles direct on this drypack before its dried...is that possible?
Correct. And yes you can set tile directly on dry pack IF you already have a pan liner installed under the mud. I don’t do it this way. I install a topical membrane over my mud. Both ways work if done right
@@Tarkustile it seems to me that the tiles will not stick to the mud if not wet enough. I got no concrete slab under only crushed rock like for outdoor patio and plates are not 20 mm thick. Ordinary for indoor. I worry they will crack...
Hi mark, just wondering how much " per foot you like to slope your pans?
1/4” per foot from the furthest corner to the drain, keeping a level perimeter typically.