Great video B1G Jano, thanks for the explanation. I got a Mega X three weeks ago and have not had one successful print on it no matter what I do. The bed simply wont level no matter what I do. I have watched the video on how to do it a million times and I follow each step carefully. The problem I have is the middle of the bed. I get all four corners done perfectly, then when I check it in the middle the Nozzle hits the bed. I move back again to the 4 corners, still perfect. I have done this with the bed cold, warm, hot and it does not change. Of course, because of this I cant print anything because it would just rake the material right off of the bed. I checked the Z Stop and AFAIK it is right. I have had this printer for a few weeks now and I am just ready to give up. I moved from an Ender to this model and I was able to level my ender in 3 minutes and then have a print started in a few more minutes. What the heck am I doing wrong here ? I really want to love this printer, but so far I absolutely hate it. Its incredibly close to going back.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one. Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
Hey B1G Jano, great series! I picked up a mega X and it prints beautiful. The one big problem is that it won’t resume printing when I run out of filament like my i3 mega. I can change filament but when I press resume, the hot end returns home and starts printing on the front edge of the bed usually knocking the part in the centre of the bed, right off the bed. A quick google search seems like it’s code related (g5?). Would you mind sharing your Gcode script for the mega x or what am I doing wrong?
Hey, Watched this video a year ago and bought this amazing printer. Quick question, do you know or can guide me on how to wire a LED strip to this printer?
yesterday I came across a print bed issue, somehow during prints the bed (Y-axis) gets jammed and keeps printing in place. I forced it loose and just tried re-tightening the screws, seems to works now. I'm going to try a big print tomorrow again to make sure.
I've had this printer for about 2 years and only set it up and used it once because the bed it shipped with is warped. The center is higher even after the bed has heated. I contacted Anycubic way back when cuz i purchased through their site and got the run around about replacing the bed plate. Now the part is only $30 so i might dust it off and try it out again.
Hi B1G-J - we have just bought the Anycubic Mega X and the first test prints came out awesome, however on trying to produce some test keys for our manufacturing plant the printer has now gone mental! Its hard to explain but all the quality has gone, the print goes all over the place, the PLA leaks in weird places, its easier to send you a photo of whats happening and your suggestion or thoughts would be appreciated, have you got an email address i can send you a photo of what was produced last night?
awesome video, I just got my Mega X today I am struggling with the bed leveling a bit, I've gone around my corners about 5 times, center is still pretty tight but corners are so loose i can fit the leveling paper that came with the machine doubled up by folding in half under the head at the corners. I admit its my first printer so I'm not sure if im just over concerned about scratching the bed or if im overlooking something simple about the leveling process lol my z axis was a bit unlevel, but i've got that dialed in now still more "snug" on the center than the corners
I would make sure the corners are level first before worrying about the center. If the corners are good and the center is too tight, then I would make microadjusments to the corners while using the paper to test the center. While the center of the bed is the most important, having the corners not set correct could cause more issues. I would also suggest taking a level and see if your bed is warped. From what you are describing, that could be an issue as well.If that is the case, you may want to reach out to support for a replacement.
@@B1GJano thanks Jano. Ive been tinkering w micro adjustments and i ran some prints. Its not as high quality as i had hoped for but its getting better and better. I feel like the bed is slightly warped but laying a level across it showed every thing level. Was about to check it w a straight edge when i got the notification of your reply lol
@@B1GJano hey man just wanted to thank you again for the help. I ended up finding that my z axis stops were installed wrong and one was hitting about 2mm before the other so even when i would set everything as correct as i could, As soon as it rehomed z it was out of whack again. Made adujstments to the z stops and so far knock on wood its printing great and everything is level
Hello! Any chance you know the exact brass nuts the lead screws use on the Anycubic Mega X? And possibly where to purchase them? I desperately need to replace mine, but I can’t find what nuts I need to buy. Thank you for reading :)
Hey B1G Jano I have the Mega X as my first FDM printer I started with Resin and the Anycubic Mono X. I am dialed in with resin but I'm really struggling getting consistent prints (or even getting successful prints at all) I have upgraded my extruder to the same model you did a video on and followed your instructions for the coding. I just can't seem to get my settings right. I am mostly trying to print full size cosplay Star Wars helmets. I would be forever grateful if you could share with me settings that are working well for you. (temps, wall thickness infill etc.) I really want this printer to work for me.
I'm not B1G Jano but maybe I can help . I had to take the print bed off and tighten up everything underneath . Then I noticed that the print bed was not flat. From the center to the right edge it dropped the thickness of the leveling paper. I checked the other side and it was flat so I flipped it over and everything is fine. I also heard that the wires on the print plate would break lose from movement so I epoxied the crap out it so I wont have that problem. Good luck to you.
Hi. Your videos have extremely helpful. I just bought the Mage X. I love the printer there are just two things I can’t figure out. 1. The first layers of anything I print comes out really bad so the bottoms of all my prints look horrible. 2. The prints have started to shift over. How do you feel about paid consultations. Can I pay you for your help.
First off, see if the bed wiggles up/down or left/right at all under GENTLE hand pressure. If so, your wheels need adjusting. They can also be too tight against the frame, which is rare and you can tell this by the bed being too hard to slide, or not being able to rotate the wheels by hand with some gentle force to turn them in place. Same for the Y hotend: shouldn't wiggle up/down, etc. Any looseness, watch a video on how to adjust these wheels, not overly tight, but to eliminate any wiggling. Just to be sure, you should also put a square (woodworking square) up to the Z frame and make sure it is a true right angle to the X/Y frame. Some printers from various mfgrs. get bent a bit in test assembly, boxing, or shipping. Then if all is stable and square, re-level the bed, this time, tighten the 4 springs to about 70% tight before starting. Too many machines achieve a level bed with the springs too loose, which makes them prone to shifting over time. At 70% fully tight, you likely need to loosen and lower the end stop switches, and get them to "just barely click" now. Remember, this has dual Z, so you need to adjust both. If necessary, loosen the Z limit switches for clearance and rotate both Z steppers an equal number of turns (by watching the set screw position as it rotates lower) to lower the bed so that a post it note or similar paper slides with tiny drag on both sides of the bed, THEN lock the Z limit switches in place to have "just clicked" at that position. You can rotate the Z steppers up and back down to confirm the "click" is where you want it: a paper thickness (or two at the most, since the springs can easily move that far) from the bed . Once you've done that NOW level your bed with the necessary fine tuning. At best, seek out a test pattern to print (thangs or thingiverse) that will give you extrusion nearly out at max size of the bed, around a .2 layer height, and just a single layer thick (imagine 10 lines of skirt...), of course you could create this yourself in something like Tinkercad. When your bed leveling and nozzle/bed temperatures are correct, you should be able to follow several inches behind the print head with your finger and the filament STICKS and won't easily move with the flat of your finger trying to gently slide it around. That means you are getting good bed adhesion. If your finger easily moves the filament with no effort, your bed leveling was too far away from the nozzle, your nozzle temp is too low (around 200c for PLA) OR the bed could be dirty (clean with simple alcohol and let air dry) or bed temp is not correct (60c for PLA). Also feel the thickness of that single layer extrusion around the entire perimeter, as if it gets thinner and thicker in areas (often one corner will be thicker, indicating to raise the bed a tiny bit in that corner), the bed still isn't optimally level. You may need to do this multiple times, but stick with it until you get good adhesion AND consistent thickness in that first layer. Life gets much easier with a level bed and good adhesion. If you aren't bumping or moving around your printer, or forcing parts off it before it has cooled for easy removel, it should work a long time before you need to check your bed for level again. I always run my first layer width greater than the nozzle diameter (e.g. .5 or .6 on a .4 nozzle), with thickness less than nozzle diameter so it has to get squashed a bit into the bed for good adhesion. After those first layer issues, getting good builds is dependent on things like speed, flow rate, infill overlap and pulling that first layer inward a bit if the outer two/three layers don't adhere well to the infill.
Hey, great video. You gave a lot of Really helpful info. I am brand new to the 3d printing world. I just bought one the mega x printer. I set it up just like everything you taught in the video, and follow the manual that came with the printer. Then when it come to printing the fist model that came with the printer. I am having a problem with the filament not extruding at 170 c temp with pla. I tried everything from make sure the nozzle is not clogged. To remove the step motor that feed the filament and readjust it. (Keep in mind that the steP motor is working fine when I use the feeding filament feature) Just not working at all. Then I had to raised it up to 240c and it only spit out a tinny bit up the filament. The only way for it to print is me Pushing the filament manually at 240c. Can you please help me or guid me in to what I need to do ?
PLA usually runs well between 200-220 C. i usually print with PLA at 210 as that is a happy medium and I usually have no issues. Tha being said, all PLA are slightly different and your results may vary. But 170 is usually too cold
I believe with this machine, when you click on home z, it disables them at that point. This was similar to how i initially set up the machine out of the box so there was no need at the time to manually disengage the steppers. Hope this helps!
I hope you see this because this is a big struggle for me when I’m doing big prints. The filament stops extruding and when I go to resume it doesn’t work:( I really need to know when I move the axis what height the z height is at! I try to resume but I need the height it ended at and it doesn’t show you! If it does where and how do I check it?
Unfortunately The print resume is very hit and miss with the stock firmware. It would work for me sometimes but other times it just lost all reference. I do wish it could show coordinates live.
Great video B1G Jano! One question.... how do you clear the printer menu of all the prints you've completed? I deleted them off my thumb drive but I cannot make them disappear from the printer menu.
That’s done in the starting gcode (manage printer settings in cura). I recommend taking a look at my slicer set up video to check out what I use in my starting gcode.
Hey I'm new to 3D printing and I have the same printer you do but I had the filament break before the feed motor and just after the filament out sensor I tried feeding the filament back in and it feels like something is stuck before the feed connection to the loop. Any ideas on how to fix it?
Hey, I'm REALLY looking to try to get a full 12" out of the print bed. It looks like there is no room on the X-Axis as the wheels on the rail look flush to the side. That's unfortunate because there is an extra 15mm on each side of the actual bed. There is a total of 10mm extra on the Y-Axis but I don't know if it's confined by the belt range of motion (hitting the belt fasteners). Do you think it's possible to get an extra 5 or so mm on the Y-Axis? My printer is coming in a few days and I can figure it out then but just curious if you know. Thanks.
it is limited by the belt path on the x carriage as well as a limit switch the carriage detects into when homing so im not sure if you will be able to get that extra space on the bed.
@@B1GJano Yeah, I was specifically asking about the belt path as the bed moves towards you on the Y Axis. Although it would be pretty easy to move back the Y limit switch a few mm too. I think the determining factor is if the ends of the belt (where the attach under the bed) hit the gears at the end of Max -Y and Max +Y. I'm looking at my current printer and that's what would prevent me from doing it. But I was hoping the there might be a few mm on the Mega X. Any chance you could move your Mega X's bed towards you and see if the belt runs out before it hits the end? Even if it does I think it would be fairly easy to make an extension bracket that just moves the gear mount out like 5-10mm and put a new belt on there. I'm pretty sure the rails wouldn't even have to be replaced/extended.
If you're curious, I was able to get 315mm on the Y-Axis by simply editing firmware in VS Code. No hardware mods necessary. Only requires you to rotate your bed 90 degrees. Now I have the freedom to make prints 12" (305mm) or a bit more.
great videos, I have a question for Jano. My belt below my print bed seems really tight, is that supposed to be tight? and if so, what's the best way to loosen it or do you know the actual name of it so I can find a way to loosen it?
you should be able to move the bed back and forth freely but it should have some resistance but also not be jerky when moving. There is a screw on the front pulley that can be adjusted that at least for me was able to adjust that belt tension.
The pressure that you would use to wipe the sleep out of your eye should move the belt slightly down when pressed a few inches from the end. It needs to be snug but nowhere guitar string tight.
I appreciate the suggestion. Thankfully haven't had any issues with the stock springs yet but I have indeed heard of many replacing theirs on a lot of 3d printers!
No need if you simply tighten the stock springs to around 70% tight, THEN bed level. A LOT of springs get sold because people don't understand that springs work most accurately to hold the bed under around 70% of their compression. Too many printers get shipped with the bed leveling at around 20-30% spring compression and people aren't shown to tighten them and adjust the limit switch(es) as necessary to accomodate proper spring tension.
Hello, i got my Mega X and started to print. everything so good so far for the first print. but i had big problems with removing the prints from the Bed. they were so hard on the bed, i needed force with the scalper to "break" the PLA of the print to get removed. but now, on the bed i had the first layer of the print left (the other contouring and the first layer of the sockets of the test files (the owls, which anycubic included on the SD-card). now i have scratches on the bed and even the first print layer. how can i remove them, or what is here the problem. is maybe the included PLA from anycubic a problem because of quality etc? when i should remove the print? it is better, when the bed is still warm, or must i heat them (because like in your video, and also in the manual, they say, that the bed must be cool down). i have also some pictures of my bed, i can send you, if you want to see, what i mean. sorry, im a complete new beginner of 3d printing, so i didnt know all specific names etc. to describe you that problem better. i hope you can help me a little, so that i can learn more. thanks a lot. Dominik from germany
Hello! I would let the bed cool completely to room temperature (anything below 30c) before trying to remove. If it’s still very stuck after that, your first layer may be too close to the bed and you may want to lower the bed a tad. In terms of the scratches on the bed, you should be fine to print still as long as you didn’t take any of the glass off. My bed has some wear and tear marks as well. I would also suggest trying another filament to see how it prints as not all filaments are created equally. Hope this can help
Hi, I have a super newbie question. In both the manual and the anycubic leveling video, it warns after selecting "Home Z" to "Lock the Z axis to prevent the Z axis from falling during leveling." I have no idea what it means to lock the Z axis or how to do it, and I can't find anything about this in the manual.
you can use Isopropyl Alcohol (the higher percentage the better), however ive also heard window cleaner has also helped. I use IPA on my other printer with a similar bed and its still going.
Hey Big Jano! Just got my mega x and trying to do the bed leveling but for some reason when i used the home z button it slides the bed all the way back and the nozzle to the front left than won't move at all.
sounds like it homed the x y and z axis (I believe thats the home all function). But no worries, you should still be able to level by doing one of two things : 1.) go to motor function on touch screen via tools and click disable. that should unlock everything and then you should be able to move the head freely again. if that works raise the z axis 10mm , place the leveling paper underneath and then lower the z axis back down to start leveling. 2.) if everything is still lock and homed, raise the z axis 10mm, then place the paper on the bed under that area, lower the z axis back down 10mm and start leveling the bed that way. You would then have to use the controls to move the bed little by little to the four corners and the center. Option 1 will be easier, but if for some reason you cant get that to work, option 2 will suffice
I do not have a cr-10 printer personally (The mega X is actually the only printer I have) so I unfortunately can't give you much comparison. Sorry about that. I recommend checking out CHEP on RUclips as he covers a lot of Creality printers!
I just got my mega x and when i tried this it slides the bed to the back and the nozzle to the front left than stops. That's not what it's supposed to do right?
So I just finished a print and when I took it off it left like a residue on the bed. you can feel that it has made a difference in the feel of the bed and I worry that it will affect adhesion next time I print something. have you seen this at all? have you heard of ways to help? or am I worried about nothing?
was machst du wenn die Ecken keine verbindung mit der nadel hat aber die mitte schon zu fest eingestellt ist?what do you do if the corners have no connection with the needle but the middle is already set too tight?
There is a nut, on the inside of the wheels on ONE SIDE ONLY that when rotated moves them closer or further away. Gently loosen the screw, then turn the nut for no wiggling but not overly tight, then re-snug the screw. Ideally you should be able to hand turn the wheels with just a tiny bit of force so as to not be overly tight, but there should be no wiggling of the hotend or bed (depending on which you were adjusting).
Can you help me brother how to solve this problem. My printer is anycubic mega x when i print anything thats look like so Rough so stringing i will send you some picture
i would double check all of the wiring to make sure everything is connected properly and going to the correct motors. If that doesnt help, i would check the motherboard and see if there are any issues there (i.e loose wires, anything burnt, etc.)
I'm having trouble leveling the center point of the bed. Every time I get the 4 corners set the center is always going to rub the print plate. I got it close enough to print the owls (came out nice) but it is obvious that the first layer isn't perfect and lifts off 1/2 the time. If it sticks... it prints basically. More detailed first layer prints always end up not sticking on some part of it. Any advice for getting that center level with the corners?
The if the four corners are level but the middle is too tight, try slightly lowering all four corners to compensate. Make sure you heat the bed to 50-60c as well as you level to let things expand accurately.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one. Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
@@brianmi40 Thanks! I did get in touch with Anycubic's customer service who had me test the plate like you suggest and sure enough you could see light come through under it. They quickly sent a replacement out.
I’m having feed issues with the filament. I think my hot end clogged and then the rollers got all caked up by trying to push filament before I stopped the print. I guess I need to replace those parts…
sorry to hear this. I know temp, retraction, ptfe tubing degrading, etc. can cause issues with extrusion. Any of these in particular you think could be causing it?
You can brush the gears with a tiny metal brush ($1 at Harbor Freight) and get rid of all the filament "dust" if you can open things up to get to them. There is nozzle cleaning filament that you try to clean the hotend, I'd go about 10c hotter than what you were running it at.
Try clicking the motor button to turn of the motors. Sometimes after homing, they lock the motors. You should be able to disable the motors this way to move the print head. Hope that helps
I believe you will have to adjust the 2 screws that come into contact the z end stop switch to adjust z height. I haven’t had to do that so I’m not 100% sure. You can always make it a tad looser on the four corner knobs to compensate the middle being too tight.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one. Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
no, the metal of a feeler gauge can scratch the nozzle. Paper is the standard thickness test, then you print a single layer test print that is near as big as your print area, and feel for thickness variations around it, and for good adhesion everywhere.
I haven't done anything with TPU on this machine. I don't really benefit much from TPU because I don't have much need for it, plus it is difficult (although not impossible) with non direct drive machines.
You might get away with a 95a shore hardness TPU if printing VERY slow. But most TPU requires an extruder that has little to no gap after the gear(s) in order that the filament cannot "escape" by bending upward under pressure instead of going down the Bowden tube. It's why TPU prints most easily on direct drive extruders. Watch a "CHEP TPU" video to see how he mod'd an Ender extruder plate to close that gap to understand...
Not recently. However, when I first got the machine, I had a few rare occasions where it did happen. I found that replacing the stock sd card and modifying slicer settings eliminated this. Not sure if it's the only solution but thats what worked for me!
Make sure everything is installed correctly. This includes the wiring for the xyz motors as well. Also, make sure there is nothing impeding movement in any axis. You should be able to disable motors and try to move things freely to check.
besides the leveling procedure, there are prints you can find online that do 5 point leveling tests. I would recommend trying some out in additional to the manual leveling. Hope that helps
i would try making small adjustments to the four corners and see if that helps. Also, if you havent already done so, heat up the bed to printing temp to get more accuracy. If its still too high, you may have a warped bed but cant say for sure
Cannot levering mt printer, when I do 0,2mm gap on the corners - the center is touching a base. If do center first, the corners are far away form base. Has Anyone met such problem?
May I ask if you level led the bed when the bed was heated or not? Sometimes that could make a difference. If you haven’t already, I’d suggest to heat the bed up and then attempt to level. If your center point is still too far or too close after adjusting everything it may be a sign of a warped bed. I have heard of a few people with that issue as well. In that case you may have to reach out to Anycubic about that.
Had the same issue. I contacted Anycubic and they said my bed was warped. They promptly sent me a new one and I got 2 good prints out of it and now once again, I can level the corners and no matter what, the center is high, just like before. Emailing Anycubic again....... Not impressed with this printer.
I cannot get anything to adhere to my anycubic bed alone. Straight out of the box it wouldn't stick. Glue stick is the only way I could get a print to adhere
nozzle/bed temps? type of filament? When you print a test print that puts a single layer out around the perimeter of the bed (near max full size) is it: a. not easily moved by finger sliding on it a few inches behind the hotend? b. feels uniformly thick If either is a problem then things aren't adjusted correctly, including possibly bed level, nozzle temp, bed temp, alcohol clean bed, nozzle clearance from bed, thickness / width of first layer...
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Great video B1G Jano, thanks for the explanation.
I got a Mega X three weeks ago and have not had one successful print on it no matter what I do. The bed simply wont level no matter what I do. I have watched the video on how to do it a million times and I follow each step carefully.
The problem I have is the middle of the bed. I get all four corners done perfectly, then when I check it in the middle the Nozzle hits the bed. I move back again to the 4 corners, still perfect. I have done this with the bed cold, warm, hot and it does not change. Of course, because of this I cant print anything because it would just rake the material right off of the bed.
I checked the Z Stop and AFAIK it is right.
I have had this printer for a few weeks now and I am just ready to give up. I moved from an Ender to this model and I was able to level my ender in 3 minutes and then have a print started in a few more minutes. What the heck am I doing wrong here ?
I really want to love this printer, but so far I absolutely hate it. Its incredibly close to going back.
you could have a bad bed. By bad i mean warped. I have heard of some with non flat beds with this machine.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one.
Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
Don't forget to put the motor on off when you are leveling. Thank you for the video.
Hey B1G Jano, great series! I picked up a mega X and it prints beautiful. The one big problem is that it won’t resume printing when I run out of filament like my i3 mega. I can change filament but when I press resume, the hot end returns home and starts printing on the front edge of the bed usually knocking the part in the centre of the bed, right off the bed. A quick google search seems like it’s code related (g5?). Would you mind sharing your Gcode script for the mega x or what am I doing wrong?
Hey, Watched this video a year ago and bought this amazing printer. Quick question, do you know or can guide me on how to wire a LED strip to this printer?
yesterday I came across a print bed issue, somehow during prints the bed (Y-axis) gets jammed and keeps printing in place.
I forced it loose and just tried re-tightening the screws, seems to works now.
I'm going to try a big print tomorrow again to make sure.
I've had this printer for about 2 years and only set it up and used it once because the bed it shipped with is warped. The center is higher even after the bed has heated. I contacted Anycubic way back when cuz i purchased through their site and got the run around about replacing the bed plate. Now the part is only $30 so i might dust it off and try it out again.
Hi B1G-J - we have just bought the Anycubic Mega X and the first test prints came out awesome, however on trying to produce some test keys for our manufacturing plant the printer has now gone mental! Its hard to explain but all the quality has gone, the print goes all over the place, the PLA leaks in weird places, its easier to send you a photo of whats happening and your suggestion or thoughts would be appreciated, have you got an email address i can send you a photo of what was produced last night?
Thank you!
Fantastic thanks
What other advice does everyone have on this print surface that I didn't mention? Let me know below!
I use glue stick on mine
awesome video, I just got my Mega X today I am struggling with the bed leveling a bit, I've gone around my corners about 5 times, center is still pretty tight but corners are so loose i can fit the leveling paper that came with the machine doubled up by folding in half under the head at the corners. I admit its my first printer so I'm not sure if im just over concerned about scratching the bed or if im overlooking something simple about the leveling process lol my z axis was a bit unlevel, but i've got that dialed in now still more "snug" on the center than the corners
I would make sure the corners are level first before worrying about the center. If the corners are good and the center is too tight, then I would make microadjusments to the corners while using the paper to test the center. While the center of the bed is the most important, having the corners not set correct could cause more issues. I would also suggest taking a level and see if your bed is warped. From what you are describing, that could be an issue as well.If that is the case, you may want to reach out to support for a replacement.
@@B1GJano thanks Jano. Ive been tinkering w micro adjustments and i ran some prints. Its not as high quality as i had hoped for but its getting better and better. I feel like the bed is slightly warped but laying a level across it showed every thing level. Was about to check it w a straight edge when i got the notification of your reply lol
@@B1GJano hey man just wanted to thank you again for the help. I ended up finding that my z axis stops were installed wrong and one was hitting about 2mm before the other so even when i would set everything as correct as i could, As soon as it rehomed z it was out of whack again. Made adujstments to the z stops and so far knock on wood its printing great and everything is level
@@Spartan_130 glad to help! And I’m thrilled you were able to find the issue and get it running well!
@@Spartan_130 Hey I'm having the exact same issue how did you fix it
Hello! Any chance you know the exact brass nuts the lead screws use on the Anycubic Mega X? And possibly where to purchase them? I desperately need to replace mine, but I can’t find what nuts I need to buy. Thank you for reading :)
Hey B1G Jano I have the Mega X as my first FDM printer I started with Resin and the Anycubic Mono X. I am dialed in with resin but I'm really struggling getting consistent prints (or even getting successful prints at all) I have upgraded my extruder to the same model you did a video on and followed your instructions for the coding. I just can't seem to get my settings right. I am mostly trying to print full size cosplay Star Wars helmets. I would be forever grateful if you could share with me settings that are working well for you. (temps, wall thickness infill etc.) I really want this printer to work for me.
I'm not B1G Jano but maybe I can help . I had to take the print bed off and tighten up everything underneath . Then I noticed that the print bed was not flat. From the center to the right edge it dropped the thickness of the leveling paper. I checked the other side and it was flat so I flipped it over and everything is fine. I also heard that the wires on the print plate would break lose from movement so I epoxied the crap out it so I wont have that problem. Good luck to you.
Great video
Thank you! and thanks for watching!
Cool video, super channel, i bought mega pro, works amazing
Thanks for watching! And enjoy the laser!!
Hi. Your videos have extremely helpful. I just bought the Mage X. I love the printer there are just two things I can’t figure out. 1. The first layers of anything I print comes out really bad so the bottoms of all my prints look horrible. 2. The prints have started to shift over. How do you feel about paid consultations. Can I pay you for your help.
First off, see if the bed wiggles up/down or left/right at all under GENTLE hand pressure. If so, your wheels need adjusting. They can also be too tight against the frame, which is rare and you can tell this by the bed being too hard to slide, or not being able to rotate the wheels by hand with some gentle force to turn them in place.
Same for the Y hotend: shouldn't wiggle up/down, etc. Any looseness, watch a video on how to adjust these wheels, not overly tight, but to eliminate any wiggling.
Just to be sure, you should also put a square (woodworking square) up to the Z frame and make sure it is a true right angle to the X/Y frame. Some printers from various mfgrs. get bent a bit in test assembly, boxing, or shipping.
Then if all is stable and square, re-level the bed, this time, tighten the 4 springs to about 70% tight before starting. Too many machines achieve a level bed with the springs too loose, which makes them prone to shifting over time. At 70% fully tight, you likely need to loosen and lower the end stop switches, and get them to "just barely click" now. Remember, this has dual Z, so you need to adjust both. If necessary, loosen the Z limit switches for clearance and rotate both Z steppers an equal number of turns (by watching the set screw position as it rotates lower) to lower the bed so that a post it note or similar paper slides with tiny drag on both sides of the bed, THEN lock the Z limit switches in place to have "just clicked" at that position. You can rotate the Z steppers up and back down to confirm the "click" is where you want it: a paper thickness (or two at the most, since the springs can easily move that far) from the bed . Once you've done that NOW level your bed with the necessary fine tuning. At best, seek out a test pattern to print (thangs or thingiverse) that will give you extrusion nearly out at max size of the bed, around a .2 layer height, and just a single layer thick (imagine 10 lines of skirt...), of course you could create this yourself in something like Tinkercad. When your bed leveling and nozzle/bed temperatures are correct, you should be able to follow several inches behind the print head with your finger and the filament STICKS and won't easily move with the flat of your finger trying to gently slide it around. That means you are getting good bed adhesion. If your finger easily moves the filament with no effort, your bed leveling was too far away from the nozzle, your nozzle temp is too low (around 200c for PLA) OR the bed could be dirty (clean with simple alcohol and let air dry) or bed temp is not correct (60c for PLA). Also feel the thickness of that single layer extrusion around the entire perimeter, as if it gets thinner and thicker in areas (often one corner will be thicker, indicating to raise the bed a tiny bit in that corner), the bed still isn't optimally level. You may need to do this multiple times, but stick with it until you get good adhesion AND consistent thickness in that first layer. Life gets much easier with a level bed and good adhesion. If you aren't bumping or moving around your printer, or forcing parts off it before it has cooled for easy removel, it should work a long time before you need to check your bed for level again.
I always run my first layer width greater than the nozzle diameter (e.g. .5 or .6 on a .4 nozzle), with thickness less than nozzle diameter so it has to get squashed a bit into the bed for good adhesion.
After those first layer issues, getting good builds is dependent on things like speed, flow rate, infill overlap and pulling that first layer inward a bit if the outer two/three layers don't adhere well to the infill.
Hey, great video. You gave a lot of Really helpful info. I am brand new to the 3d printing world. I just bought one the mega x printer. I set it up just like everything you taught in the video, and follow the manual that came with the printer. Then when it come to printing the fist model that came with the printer. I am having a problem with the filament not extruding at 170 c temp with pla. I tried everything from make sure the nozzle is not clogged. To remove the step motor that feed the filament and readjust it. (Keep in mind that the steP motor is working fine when I use the feeding filament feature) Just not working at all. Then I had to raised it up to 240c and it only spit out a tinny bit up the filament. The only way for it to print is me Pushing the filament manually at 240c. Can you please help me or guid me in to what I need to do ?
PLA usually runs well between 200-220 C. i usually print with PLA at 210 as that is a happy medium and I usually have no issues. Tha being said, all PLA are slightly different and your results may vary. But 170 is usually too cold
Did you disable the steppers when moving it around, because i didn't see you do it so im confused
I believe with this machine, when you click on home z, it disables them at that point. This was similar to how i initially set up the machine out of the box so there was no need at the time to manually disengage the steppers. Hope this helps!
I hope you see this because this is a big struggle for me when I’m doing big prints. The filament stops extruding and when I go to resume it doesn’t work:( I really need to know when I move the axis what height the z height is at! I try to resume but I need the height it ended at and it doesn’t show you! If it does where and how do I check it?
Unfortunately The print resume is very hit and miss with the stock firmware. It would work for me sometimes but other times it just lost all reference. I do wish it could show coordinates live.
@@B1GJano ok, that’s fine. Thank you though!
Great video B1G Jano! One question.... how do you clear the printer menu of all the prints you've completed? I deleted them off my thumb drive but I cannot make them disappear from the printer menu.
If you remove the files from the sd card they shouldn’t show up in the print menu.
Thanks mate
Glad I could help
How do you fix the inital print line, how do you make it actual do that print line as mine is always off the bed
That’s done in the starting gcode (manage printer settings in cura). I recommend taking a look at my slicer set up video to check out what I use in my starting gcode.
Hey I'm new to 3D printing and I have the same printer you do but I had the filament break before the feed motor and just after the filament out sensor I tried feeding the filament back in and it feels like something is stuck before the feed connection to the loop. Any ideas on how to fix it?
If you can easily remove it by pulling the lever on the extruder and manually pull it out, do that.
Thank You.
Hey, I'm REALLY looking to try to get a full 12" out of the print bed. It looks like there is no room on the X-Axis as the wheels on the rail look flush to the side. That's unfortunate because there is an extra 15mm on each side of the actual bed. There is a total of 10mm extra on the Y-Axis but I don't know if it's confined by the belt range of motion (hitting the belt fasteners). Do you think it's possible to get an extra 5 or so mm on the Y-Axis? My printer is coming in a few days and I can figure it out then but just curious if you know. Thanks.
it is limited by the belt path on the x carriage as well as a limit switch the carriage detects into when homing so im not sure if you will be able to get that extra space on the bed.
@@B1GJano Yeah, I was specifically asking about the belt path as the bed moves towards you on the Y Axis. Although it would be pretty easy to move back the Y limit switch a few mm too. I think the determining factor is if the ends of the belt (where the attach under the bed) hit the gears at the end of Max -Y and Max +Y. I'm looking at my current printer and that's what would prevent me from doing it. But I was hoping the there might be a few mm on the Mega X. Any chance you could move your Mega X's bed towards you and see if the belt runs out before it hits the end?
Even if it does I think it would be fairly easy to make an extension bracket that just moves the gear mount out like 5-10mm and put a new belt on there. I'm pretty sure the rails wouldn't even have to be replaced/extended.
If you're curious, I was able to get 315mm on the Y-Axis by simply editing firmware in VS Code. No hardware mods necessary. Only requires you to rotate your bed 90 degrees. Now I have the freedom to make prints 12" (305mm) or a bit more.
great videos, I have a question for Jano. My belt below my print bed seems really tight, is that supposed to be tight? and if so, what's the best way to loosen it or do you know the actual name of it so I can find a way to loosen it?
you should be able to move the bed back and forth freely but it should have some resistance but also not be jerky when moving. There is a screw on the front pulley that can be adjusted that at least for me was able to adjust that belt tension.
The pressure that you would use to wipe the sleep out of your eye should move the belt slightly down when pressed a few inches from the end. It needs to be snug but nowhere guitar string tight.
do you think your intro is long and over the top enough? you win the youtuber award for both
Works way better if you upgrade the cheap bed springs got heavier springs off ebay made leveling a dream and stays where you put it
I appreciate the suggestion. Thankfully haven't had any issues with the stock springs yet but I have indeed heard of many replacing theirs on a lot of 3d printers!
You have a link for the springs on eBay?
@@chanmonychhem5759 ^
No need if you simply tighten the stock springs to around 70% tight, THEN bed level. A LOT of springs get sold because people don't understand that springs work most accurately to hold the bed under around 70% of their compression. Too many printers get shipped with the bed leveling at around 20-30% spring compression and people aren't shown to tighten them and adjust the limit switch(es) as necessary to accomodate proper spring tension.
Great Video my friend!!!! Thanks for the sub!!!
thank you for watching! I have a Vyper on the way and have been watching your videos to get myself ready! Great work on your end as well!
Hello, i got my Mega X and started to print. everything so good so far for the first print. but i had big problems with removing the prints from the Bed. they were so hard on the bed, i needed force with the scalper to "break" the PLA of the print to get removed. but now, on the bed i had the first layer of the print left (the other contouring and the first layer of the sockets of the test files (the owls, which anycubic included on the SD-card). now i have scratches on the bed and even the first print layer. how can i remove them, or what is here the problem.
is maybe the included PLA from anycubic a problem because of quality etc?
when i should remove the print? it is better, when the bed is still warm, or must i heat them (because like in your video, and also in the manual, they say, that the bed must be cool down).
i have also some pictures of my bed, i can send you, if you want to see, what i mean. sorry, im a complete new beginner of 3d printing, so i didnt know all specific names etc. to describe you that problem better.
i hope you can help me a little, so that i can learn more.
thanks a lot.
Dominik from germany
Hello! I would let the bed cool completely to room temperature (anything below 30c) before trying to remove. If it’s still very stuck after that, your first layer may be too close to the bed and you may want to lower the bed a tad. In terms of the scratches on the bed, you should be fine to print still as long as you didn’t take any of the glass off. My bed has some wear and tear marks as well. I would also suggest trying another filament to see how it prints as not all filaments are created equally. Hope this can help
Hi, I have a super newbie question. In both the manual and the anycubic leveling video, it warns after selecting "Home Z" to "Lock the Z axis to prevent the Z axis from falling during leveling." I have no idea what it means to lock the Z axis or how to do it, and I can't find anything about this in the manual.
not sure to be honest. When I home z, the z axis is all the way down, so it shouldn't be worrysome that it will fall.
What are your thoughts on cleaning the bed with some type of alcohol? I've seen some people say it works and others say it ruined their bed.
you can use Isopropyl Alcohol (the higher percentage the better), however ive also heard window cleaner has also helped. I use IPA on my other printer with a similar bed and its still going.
Hey Big Jano! Just got my mega x and trying to do the bed leveling but for some reason when i used the home z button it slides the bed all the way back and the nozzle to the front left than won't move at all.
sounds like it homed the x y and z axis (I believe thats the home all function). But no worries, you should still be able to level by doing one of two things :
1.) go to motor function on touch screen via tools and click disable. that should unlock everything and then you should be able to move the head freely again. if that works raise the z axis 10mm , place the leveling paper underneath and then lower the z axis back down to start leveling.
2.) if everything is still lock and homed, raise the z axis 10mm, then place the paper on the bed under that area, lower the z axis back down 10mm and start leveling the bed that way. You would then have to use the controls to move the bed little by little to the four corners and the center.
Option 1 will be easier, but if for some reason you cant get that to work, option 2 will suffice
@@B1GJano I'll try that next. Thanks my dude!
Hey my mega x printer does not work I do not know why but it keeps printing strings and then it clumps up on the nozzle please help me
Do you have a VS video for this printer and Creality?
Honestly I want to know if this machine is better than having a CR10
I do not have a cr-10 printer personally (The mega X is actually the only printer I have) so I unfortunately can't give you much comparison. Sorry about that. I recommend checking out CHEP on RUclips as he covers a lot of Creality printers!
How do you calculate e step for this printer i have one and it over extruding
I just got my mega x and when i tried this it slides the bed to the back and the nozzle to the front left than stops. That's not what it's supposed to do right?
So I just finished a print and when I took it off it left like a residue on the bed. you can feel that it has made a difference in the feel of the bed and I worry that it will affect adhesion next time I print something. have you seen this at all? have you heard of ways to help? or am I worried about nothing?
i've not encountered a residue before. Does it look like you removed bed coating maybe?
was machst du wenn die Ecken keine verbindung mit der nadel hat aber die mitte schon zu fest eingestellt ist?what do you do if the corners have no connection with the needle but the middle is already set too tight?
That sounds like possibly you have a warped bed. But try areas in between the 4 corners to see if it’s too high or low there as well
How do you adjust the "D shape wheels" I don't get how they're supposed to be tightened.
There is a nut, on the inside of the wheels on ONE SIDE ONLY that when rotated moves them closer or further away. Gently loosen the screw, then turn the nut for no wiggling but not overly tight, then re-snug the screw. Ideally you should be able to hand turn the wheels with just a tiny bit of force so as to not be overly tight, but there should be no wiggling of the hotend or bed (depending on which you were adjusting).
Can you help me brother how to solve this problem. My printer is anycubic mega x when i print anything thats look like so Rough so stringing i will send you some picture
Hey man when I hit home Z my printer doesn’t move and makes a weird noise can’t figure it out
i would double check all of the wiring to make sure everything is connected properly and going to the correct motors. If that doesnt help, i would check the motherboard and see if there are any issues there (i.e loose wires, anything burnt, etc.)
I'm having trouble leveling the center point of the bed. Every time I get the 4 corners set the center is always going to rub the print plate. I got it close enough to print the owls (came out nice) but it is obvious that the first layer isn't perfect and lifts off 1/2 the time. If it sticks... it prints basically. More detailed first layer prints always end up not sticking on some part of it.
Any advice for getting that center level with the corners?
The if the four corners are level but the middle is too tight, try slightly lowering all four corners to compensate. Make sure you heat the bed to 50-60c as well as you level to let things expand accurately.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one.
Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
@@brianmi40 Thanks! I did get in touch with Anycubic's customer service who had me test the plate like you suggest and sure enough you could see light come through under it. They quickly sent a replacement out.
@@tracygrove3484 Good of them to do the replacement!
Have you used PETG with this printer yet? I just mine and I'm having trouble printing with PETG.
I have not done much with PETG as of yet. Want to get into using it more in the future. I know it is a little more finnicky to use
Make sure you started with mid-point of the temp recommendation for nozzle and bed from the mfgr. prolly printed on the spool.
I’m having feed issues with the filament. I think my hot end clogged and then the rollers got all caked up by trying to push filament before I stopped the print. I guess I need to replace those parts…
sorry to hear this. I know temp, retraction, ptfe tubing degrading, etc. can cause issues with extrusion. Any of these in particular you think could be causing it?
You can brush the gears with a tiny metal brush ($1 at Harbor Freight) and get rid of all the filament "dust" if you can open things up to get to them. There is nozzle cleaning filament that you try to clean the hotend, I'd go about 10c hotter than what you were running it at.
My print head doesn't move at all when I push the home z. What could be the issue?
Try clicking the motor button to turn of the motors. Sometimes after homing, they lock the motors. You should be able to disable the motors this way to move the print head. Hope that helps
my bed in kinda scratched in some places from when my mom leveled it will that give me problems with the filament sticking ??
You should be fine. My bed has a few scratches and some normal wear and tear in a years time and still adheres great!
I get the corners level but the middle seem to be too close. How do I move the z start like .008-.01?
I believe you will have to adjust the 2 screws that come into contact the z end stop switch to adjust z height. I haven’t had to do that so I’m not 100% sure. You can always make it a tad looser on the four corner knobs to compensate the middle being too tight.
Take the glass off and with a good metal ruler for an accurate straight edge, check the metal plate AND the glass for flatness with the ruler up on its side, check it at every angle across the middle and from corner to corner around the perimeter to fully locate all high areas. If the metal plate is high somewhere in the center, you can likely carefully sand it down gently to get it flat, sand then check with ruler... go SLOW. If the glass plate is the problem buy a new one.
Of course, make sure your roller wheels are tuned for nothing wobbling loose at all on bed or hotend movement, no dents in the framework they run over, etc.
You should use feeler gauge for leveling
no, the metal of a feeler gauge can scratch the nozzle. Paper is the standard thickness test, then you print a single layer test print that is near as big as your print area, and feel for thickness variations around it, and for good adhesion everywhere.
have you tried printing with tpu? Anycube says they can but I'm skeptical because its not a direct drive and I know of the controversy behind that.
I haven't done anything with TPU on this machine. I don't really benefit much from TPU because I don't have much need for it, plus it is difficult (although not impossible) with non direct drive machines.
You might get away with a 95a shore hardness TPU if printing VERY slow. But most TPU requires an extruder that has little to no gap after the gear(s) in order that the filament cannot "escape" by bending upward under pressure instead of going down the Bowden tube. It's why TPU prints most easily on direct drive extruders. Watch a "CHEP TPU" video to see how he mod'd an Ender extruder plate to close that gap to understand...
Hey could you get ahold of me sometime, my mega x is acting up and I’m not sure who to ask about it . I would really appreciate it !
Have you had problems with prints just stoping mid print
Not recently. However, when I first got the machine, I had a few rare occasions where it did happen. I found that replacing the stock sd card and modifying slicer settings eliminated this. Not sure if it's the only solution but thats what worked for me!
@@B1GJano thanks for the info I’ll give it a go
when i press home Y everthing lock and the machine start screaming ... help help help
Make sure everything is installed correctly. This includes the wiring for the xyz motors as well. Also, make sure there is nothing impeding movement in any axis. You should be able to disable motors and try to move things freely to check.
Man how do you calibrate this thing I think that's what's wrong with mine help me!!
besides the leveling procedure, there are prints you can find online that do 5 point leveling tests. I would recommend trying some out in additional to the manual leveling. Hope that helps
my bed won't go low enough?
my center of my bed is to high how do i fix that??
i would try making small adjustments to the four corners and see if that helps. Also, if you havent already done so, heat up the bed to printing temp to get more accuracy. If its still too high, you may have a warped bed but cant say for sure
@@B1GJano i mored by turn the glass and that help a little but still high the middle and i sent anyCube a message about it last nite
Cannot levering mt printer, when I do 0,2mm gap on the corners - the center is touching a base. If do center first, the corners are far away form base. Has Anyone met such problem?
May I ask if you level led the bed when the bed was heated or not? Sometimes that could make a difference. If you haven’t already, I’d suggest to heat the bed up and then attempt to level. If your center point is still too far or too close after adjusting everything it may be a sign of a warped bed. I have heard of a few people with that issue as well. In that case you may have to reach out to Anycubic about that.
Had the same issue. I contacted Anycubic and they said my bed was warped. They promptly sent me a new one and I got 2 good prints out of it and now once again, I can level the corners and no matter what, the center is high, just like before. Emailing Anycubic again....... Not impressed with this printer.
I cannot get anything to adhere to my anycubic bed alone. Straight out of the box it wouldn't stick. Glue stick is the only way I could get a print to adhere
nozzle/bed temps? type of filament? When you print a test print that puts a single layer out around the perimeter of the bed (near max full size) is it:
a. not easily moved by finger sliding on it a few inches behind the hotend?
b. feels uniformly thick
If either is a problem then things aren't adjusted correctly, including possibly bed level, nozzle temp, bed temp, alcohol clean bed, nozzle clearance from bed, thickness / width of first layer...
So you have a fix for the awful filament feed system on this printer? Its garbage
I damaged my bed but I just use glue stick now
I have leveling problems in my anyshit i3 mega s, i solved once but i have to move the printer now i cant leveling this crap again...
I was given one of these printers and compared to my ender 3 this is a giant POS. Do not buy!