I really like the way you do the video. Sharing all the useful information and directions as you go. Super easy to follow along; perfectly paced and informative. Very well done, Sir. Thank you!
11:41 these are the best videos for working on 80 series Cruisers ! Great production quality, very in depth explanations, for a visual learner like me this channel is a crucial resource. The for taking the time to share with us all.
I need to tell you that my decision to purchase an 80 series was because of the support on RUclips for these kinds of things. So when I was on the fence deciding, I looked around and found your channel and I think it was the deciding factor to get one. The video was you reconditioning the front hubs and seals etc as mine has a leak. I'm just blown away at the confidence you can instill in someone like me to do repairs but also your generous comments. Thanks heaps from Melbourne 🏆
Great video, one tip (not sure if anyone else has mentioned) but beneath the air filter housing is another little catch can that needs to be emptied & cleaned. It will have lots of crud & dust / bugs if not done frequently. Its at the bottom of the housing towards the back facing the exhaust & held in place by clips like the top of the air cleaner housing
I use Ryco filters but I hate their filter wrench caps like the one you used, the part you fit your wrench into isn't long enough and they also get the filter stuck in the cap... I switched to one of those self tightening claw ones, way better. It works on all sizes and nothing gets jammed.
I recommend putting down a cheap plastic tarp underneath the oil catch pan in case there are any splashes or drips that miss. It also makes it more comfortable if there are pebbles or you are on dirt.
Dropping this across a few videos, I have an '97 80 (1Hdft) and love your videos, they brilliantly explain the steps and give me the confidence to tackle alot of the jobs myself. So I am looking at getting some of the speciality tools, like a Torque wrench, but I see there are a variety of options, what is the best all round wrench torque range that I should look at buying? What's a good low number, 30-40Nm and what's a good high range 100-200Nm? Thank you Etienne
I mate, very nice video thanks for show how we do this services, you use what kind of oil 20w50? I use 5w30 I can change oil for 20w50 not have any problems ? Thk for you answer
Hi Luis, we use a higher viscosity oil in this vehicle due to the engine being particularly worn (burning oil) and the hotter climate in Australia (regularly 40 degrees Celsius in summer). Please refer to the engine oil viscosity table within the owners manual for your region, which will likely recommend multiple oil viscosities dependant on ambient temperature range. If the engine is in good condition and not burning much oil, it's usually preferred to use a lower viscosity oil out of the preferred options, as this can lead to less wear on the engine during cold starts and while warming up to operating temperature.
@@2ndGearLow hey mate, thank you for the lovely video. Just got 96 Winter edition 1fz fe. It's done 383ks. We've been having cold mornings these days here in Perth. What oil do you reckon suits best for this time? I'm thinking of getting the 10w 40 full synthetic. Let me know what your thoughts are cheers
Best to mention that the oil filter will be empty seeing that it is new and recommend starting the engine and running it for a minute or so the turn the engine off and checking the oil level and topping it up if needed. I also would of suggested to inspect the air filter housing for excess dirt or dust and wiping it out if needed. Other then that, well done.
Hi Roger, Thanks for your feedback, those are some great points. As per the Toyota owners manual, the engine oil should be dipped with the engine at operating temperature, a few minutes after the car has been turned off, which would ensure the oil filter has been filled. We think it's a good idea to also dip the oil quickly before first starting the car after a change, to ensure you're not running it for any amount of time with low oil. Certainly a good idea to inspect the airbox for contaminants too.
Another great video boys, how about one on the 80/105 handbrake and cable adjacent. I’m trying to at least get mine to work a bit. It’d be nice to be able to rely on it one day. 🥴
Hi Earth Windnfire, please refer to your cars owners manual, as engine oil viscosity depends on region and associated climate conditions. Where we are in Australia the temperature doesn't usually reach below freezing even in the peak of winter, so 10W-30, 15W-40 or 20W-50 are recommended. I run a 20W-50 in the vehicle shown as the engine is not in great shape (worn) and it burns oil between changes, a problem which is lessened in this case by the higher viscosity oil. For an engine in good condition it's generally best to run the lower viscosity engine oil, out of the options stated in Owners Manual, as they provide more immediate lubrication and reduce wear on cold starts, but it also depends on the conditions the vehicle will predominantly be used in. I also find that the 20W-50 performs better in the hotter conditions which I subject it too, e.g. beach driving on soft sand under heavy loads, when in peak summer (e.g. 40 degrees Celsius) in Australia. In 'extremely low temperatures' our owners manual for the 1997 LC80 recommends 5W-30 oil, as the engine can become difficult to start while running 10W-30 oil, but we don't encounter temperatures that low here.
Great video. One question I have is what do you do with the oil pan after draining? Would you wipe it dry with paper towel so dust and other dirt doesn't get stuck in the oil pan, or does that not matter cause it's always going to be used for old oil? If it is, what if you wanna do an oil cycle and reuse the oil you've just cycled? Is that ill advised? You won't be able to use the cycled oil cause it's now in the dirty oil pan
Hi mate, thanks for watching. We always empty and clean our oil pan after draining any fluids, as a dirty oil pan would be harder to store. We wouldn't recommend draining and re-using oil - this introduces the risk of contamination.
No problem Hernan, thanks for watching. The one shown is a Ryco RST219 14 flute 74mm oil filter cup socket (in place of Toyota genuine 0922807502 Oil Filter Wrench)
Hi Armando, we haven't made a video on the fuel filter change yet for the 1FZ-FE, though are planning one in the future. Unfortunately it's a very tricky one to get to!
Hi Tyrone, very similar as the 1FZ-FE engine is shared but with some improvements on the FZJ105. Looks like the oil filter is the same, but different part number for the air filter. Best to check your owners manual for engine oil viscosity, and would expect the sump plug layout and torque to be the same. Cheers
Hi Steven, thanks for watching. The model shown in this video is a 1997 FZJ80, noting this as there are a couple of different oil filter numbers (different sizes) specified by Toyota for this 1FZ-FE 80 series engine, depending on year, and there can be substitutes for each as well. Early model oil filter - 15600-41010 (out of production, substituted by 90915-TD004) Late model oil filter - 90915-20002 (out of production, substituted by 90915-20004 OR 90915-YZZD4) I'm basing this off information found of Partsouq.com, which is a great resource for finding part numbers and exploded diagrams and VIN. This was recommended to me by my local Toyota dealership parts department
the 80 does not have a cabin filter. I believe the cabin filters first showed up in the 100 or 200 series. good luck. Smiles per gallon. thank you 2nd gear low!!
Steven, in Middle East markets, and also in Oceania it seems Toyota is selling this filters (YZZD4) and American continent getting YZZD3, both are same Size, I´ve used both.
I really like the way you do the video. Sharing all the useful information and directions as you go. Super easy to follow along; perfectly paced and informative.
Very well done, Sir.
Thank you!
11:41 these are the best videos for working on 80 series Cruisers ! Great production quality, very in depth explanations, for a visual learner like me this channel is a crucial resource. The for taking the time to share with us all.
Thanks for watching mate. We really appreciate your comment and it's great to hear the videos are helping you out!
I need to tell you that my decision to purchase an 80 series was because of the support on RUclips for these kinds of things. So when I was on the fence deciding, I looked around and found your channel and I think it was the deciding factor to get one. The video was you reconditioning the front hubs and seals etc as mine has a leak.
I'm just blown away at the confidence you can instill in someone like me to do repairs but also your generous comments. Thanks heaps from Melbourne 🏆
Thanks Padma! Welcome to the club and thank you for your kind feedback. Great to see you keen to learn to work on it yourself!
Great video,
one tip (not sure if anyone else has mentioned) but beneath the air filter housing is another little catch can that needs to be emptied & cleaned. It will have lots of crud & dust / bugs if not done frequently. Its at the bottom of the housing towards the back facing the exhaust & held in place by clips like the top of the air cleaner housing
Love your work. Great video. Not too much detail and not too little. Keep it up with the 1FZFE. We are guardians of these treasures
Appreciate the feedback! They are definitely great vehicles.
Just got my hands on an 80 series and I'm so glad these videos exist
Thanks for your feedback and welcome to the club!
Fantastic step by step of a procedure every land cruiser owner should get familiar with. Thanks for taking the time to put this together!
Thanks for commenting NKP Garage, glad you enjoyed!
your a great teacher thank you
I use Ryco filters but I hate their filter wrench caps like the one you used, the part you fit your wrench into isn't long enough and they also get the filter stuck in the cap... I switched to one of those self tightening claw ones, way better. It works on all sizes and nothing gets jammed.
I recommend putting down a cheap plastic tarp underneath the oil catch pan in case there are any splashes or drips that miss. It also makes it more comfortable if there are pebbles or you are on dirt.
Thanks Drwisdom1, that's a good tip.
Very informative as expected Brad.
The WRX is due for a general service ;)
Dropping this across a few videos, I have an '97 80 (1Hdft) and love your videos, they brilliantly explain the steps and give me the confidence to tackle alot of the jobs myself.
So I am looking at getting some of the speciality tools, like a Torque wrench, but I see there are a variety of options, what is the best all round wrench torque range that I should look at buying? What's a good low number, 30-40Nm and what's a good high range 100-200Nm?
Thank you Etienne
I mate, very nice video thanks for show how we do this services, you use what kind of oil 20w50? I use 5w30 I can change oil for 20w50 not have any problems ? Thk for you answer
Hi Luis, we use a higher viscosity oil in this vehicle due to the engine being particularly worn (burning oil) and the hotter climate in Australia (regularly 40 degrees Celsius in summer). Please refer to the engine oil viscosity table within the owners manual for your region, which will likely recommend multiple oil viscosities dependant on ambient temperature range. If the engine is in good condition and not burning much oil, it's usually preferred to use a lower viscosity oil out of the preferred options, as this can lead to less wear on the engine during cold starts and while warming up to operating temperature.
@@2ndGearLow hey mate, thank you for the lovely video. Just got 96 Winter edition 1fz fe. It's done 383ks. We've been having cold mornings these days here in Perth. What oil do you reckon suits best for this time? I'm thinking of getting the 10w 40 full synthetic. Let me know what your thoughts are cheers
Best to mention that the oil filter will be empty seeing that it is new and recommend starting the engine and running it for a minute or so the turn the engine off and checking the oil level and topping it up if needed. I also would of suggested to inspect the air filter housing for excess dirt or dust and wiping it out if needed. Other then that, well done.
Hi Roger,
Thanks for your feedback, those are some great points.
As per the Toyota owners manual, the engine oil should be dipped with the engine at operating temperature, a few minutes after the car has been turned off, which would ensure the oil filter has been filled. We think it's a good idea to also dip the oil quickly before first starting the car after a change, to ensure you're not running it for any amount of time with low oil. Certainly a good idea to inspect the airbox for contaminants too.
Another great video boys, how about one on the 80/105 handbrake and cable adjacent. I’m trying to at least get mine to work a bit. It’d be nice to be able to rely on it one day. 🥴
Haha yes the infamous Toyota handbrake.. it's on the list for a future video for sure
I have a 1997 80 series LC with 270K mileage. What oil weight is recommended for it? The LC is in CA-USA Thanks
Hi Earth Windnfire, please refer to your cars owners manual, as engine oil viscosity depends on region and associated climate conditions. Where we are in Australia the temperature doesn't usually reach below freezing even in the peak of winter, so 10W-30, 15W-40 or 20W-50 are recommended. I run a 20W-50 in the vehicle shown as the engine is not in great shape (worn) and it burns oil between changes, a problem which is lessened in this case by the higher viscosity oil. For an engine in good condition it's generally best to run the lower viscosity engine oil, out of the options stated in Owners Manual, as they provide more immediate lubrication and reduce wear on cold starts, but it also depends on the conditions the vehicle will predominantly be used in. I also find that the 20W-50 performs better in the hotter conditions which I subject it too, e.g. beach driving on soft sand under heavy loads, when in peak summer (e.g. 40 degrees Celsius) in Australia. In 'extremely low temperatures' our owners manual for the 1997 LC80 recommends 5W-30 oil, as the engine can become difficult to start while running 10W-30 oil, but we don't encounter temperatures that low here.
@@2ndGearLow Thank you
Wow, what a generously detailed response 🏆
Great video. One question I have is what do you do with the oil pan after draining? Would you wipe it dry with paper towel so dust and other dirt doesn't get stuck in the oil pan, or does that not matter cause it's always going to be used for old oil?
If it is, what if you wanna do an oil cycle and reuse the oil you've just cycled? Is that ill advised? You won't be able to use the cycled oil cause it's now in the dirty oil pan
Hi mate, thanks for watching. We always empty and clean our oil pan after draining any fluids, as a dirty oil pan would be harder to store.
We wouldn't recommend draining and re-using oil - this introduces the risk of contamination.
Thanks for the detailed videos. What size is your oil filter socket?
No problem Hernan, thanks for watching. The one shown is a Ryco RST219 14 flute 74mm oil filter cup socket (in place of Toyota genuine 0922807502 Oil Filter Wrench)
What is the size of sump plug?
Hi mate,have you done anything on the fuel filter change
Hi Armando, we haven't made a video on the fuel filter change yet for the 1FZ-FE, though are planning one in the future. Unfortunately it's a very tricky one to get to!
On a unrelated note, how do you find the ducted vacuum?
Hi Rocketx, haha interesting question but the ducted vacuum is great, we haven't had any issues with it and it certainly makes vacuuming easy
Will this work on 1fz 105?
Hi Tyrone, very similar as the 1FZ-FE engine is shared but with some improvements on the FZJ105. Looks like the oil filter is the same, but different part number for the air filter. Best to check your owners manual for engine oil viscosity, and would expect the sump plug layout and torque to be the same. Cheers
Thank you mate
Thanks Jeff
Missed the air filter bowl underneath the air filter :)
How we change cabin air filter?
Hi Huseyin,
Unfortunately the 80 series Landcruiser didn't come with any cabin air filter, so there's nothing to replace!
You can use an empty 1 quart bottle of Mobile 1 oil, cut the bottom off, and screw it into fill hole and use it as funnel
Everywhere i check it says the filter is 90915YZZD3 not D4
Hi Steven, thanks for watching. The model shown in this video is a 1997 FZJ80, noting this as there are a couple of different oil filter numbers (different sizes) specified by Toyota for this 1FZ-FE 80 series engine, depending on year, and there can be substitutes for each as well.
Early model oil filter - 15600-41010 (out of production, substituted by 90915-TD004)
Late model oil filter - 90915-20002 (out of production, substituted by 90915-20004 OR 90915-YZZD4)
I'm basing this off information found of Partsouq.com, which is a great resource for finding part numbers and exploded diagrams and VIN. This was recommended to me by my local Toyota dealership parts department
the 80 does not have a cabin filter. I believe the cabin filters first showed up in the 100 or 200 series.
good luck.
Smiles per gallon.
thank you 2nd gear low!!
Steven, in Middle East markets, and also in Oceania it seems Toyota is selling this filters (YZZD4) and American continent getting YZZD3, both are same Size, I´ve used both.
10045 Lilla Oval