Hi Scott, I just found your trailer today. A real quick observation, please get rid of the wood holding up the large propane bottle (bomb). having a welder weld a piece of plate onto the frame won't be that expensive. The wood will rot and break and you can bet it will happen at the most inopportune moment. Also, please put some expanding foam up around the front corners on the floor. Just mask them from the outside first so you are not cleaning up ooze. Of course, now as I see the date of this video, I'm quite sure it is done and I will look more to see how it all turned out LOL.. Have a great day.
Why use all that external wire? This should not be used in insulated walls. Just a heads up, your external covers are not up to code for use in a house.
No, there are three wires and a ground is needed. You would purchase 12/2 (or 14/2, or whatever your application requires). The 12/2 means 12-Gauge that is 2 conductors with a ground (or 3 wires total). FYI, I am not a licensed electrician. Your circuits will have a ground connected to the power source in use (generator, inverter, shore power, etc.).
@@scottsthillier1140 Thank you. All the wire I see at home depot that is stranded seems to be 2, but I am shopping online, so I am glad you clarified. I will go w 12/2, which will be my supply wires, plus ground. Also, does the ground terminate on the inverter ground lug? Obviously my 12 dv circuits ground to the trailer body, but I cannot imagine this being the ground for the ac side. Then again, if it grounds to the inverter lug, what does the inverter do with that current, should it ever be applied?
Your setup helped me a lot. Is there are reason you chose 2x4 framing over 2x2? I would rather have 2x4 mainly for installing thicker insulation, but my cargo trailer being a 6x12 am concerned about loosing interior space, as well as the added weight of a 2x4. Did you think weight difference was a factor? What did you insulate with? Great job on the electric and the vid.
You've got an A.C. 50 amp minimum is REQUIRED. Way too many service points. The only thing I can see good About this is the runs are very neat and tidy. Slack off on the hard 90 degree turns. Need about 4 breakers Minimum. You also have no GFCI outlets. At least put those in for a measure of safety. Install a breaker box inside the trailer. Do stuff right the first time. You will be much happier when you don't trip a breaker every time you turn a light on.
Your point it well taken. It is challenging to make Travel Trailers light. The way I built this thing out is definitely not light, so I agree with you. However, I would tell you that it is way lighter than I though it would be. If you count the number of vertical 2x4's and the several sheets of plywood that will finish it, it is less weight than most of the stuff people put in a cargo trailer anyway... I have since upgraded my truck but I tell you that it is not as heavy as you think. But, I do not have tanks for black water, grey water, potable water, plumbing, and toilets and showers and sinks. That stuff weighs a lot. I design was such that all the places I go already have that stuff so there is no need to build it into the camper saving lots of weight and expense. I do "boon dock" at NASCAR events and then I just rent my own porta potty at the event. They charge $99 for the whole event and place it on your camp site where you want it and service it on request (pump out, clean, new supplies, etc.) We use the porta potty as a shower enclosure as I have a high end "pump up" bug sprayer that is dedicated for WATER USE ONLY. That sprayer washes our dishes, serves a a water dispenser (coffee anyone?) and a shower inside the porta potty. It does seem like a lot of weight, and I was worried about that. Now that it is finished, it is fine. I need to weigh it at my local CAT Scales now that it is finished, but I do not have that information at this time. Will post when I get it.
@@scottsthillier1140 add an auxiliary transmission cooler to your truck, if you haven't already. You'll be thankful you did. I learned that lesson the expensive hard way.
This is not the way to power a trailer or RV for AC power. The use of a load center, available for low money and the requisite circuit breakers, would be safer and the most efficient. Also--Dude, you have a wire nut splice in the ceiling? How hard would it be to install a box in that location? You need to brush up on code and AC distribution. The use of GFCI in exterior receptacles and near water sources is code. Get an electrician buddy and have him look over your circuits. You know what you want but those wires need circuit protection. Dang there's just so much bad here, don't place 12V transformers inside closed cavities. An RV dual voltage load center is not that much and cleverly distributes the needed power. You will have 12V things, like batteries (at least one, anyway) since you will need emergency break-away circuits for the brakes with a trailer that big. I commend you for designing the electrical system for your own personal needs but here's one thing to consider. Since you haven't used the mandated devices, protection, and ways, your trailer will never be certified by an standardization body, meaning you can be turned away at every campground, park, or facility for parking the trailer. Heck, it may not be important, you may use this on your own land for a hunting shack. Get some circuit protection and better distribution and that would be done.
You are going to want one dedicated cct for your air conditioner alone. after that you would maybe want to look in to having at least 2-3 15 amp ccts for all your outlets
That depends. We have a lot of low wattage devices (tablets, phones, computers, etc...) that all require a plug, but not much wattage. Also, I just wanted a lot of outlets for convenience. In any case, there is circuit breaker protection, so there is no need to worry. I built this system for my and my family and the way we use it. I easily operate withing the amperage avaiable even though this is for the way "I use" it verses the way another family would use it. To date, I have never had a breaker trip for us pulling to many amps (even though I have enough outlets to do so). So, I am happy with the design and would not change a thing. Thanks for you comments. Best regards. Scott
I thought I would add an additional thought... When I "hook up" this rig to some form of power, the power source ranges as follows: 15 AMP, 20 AMP, 23.3 AMP (this is on my Yamaha inverter generator), 30 AMP (typically at a camp ground), and 50 AMP (typically at a campground). I also "boon dock" at NASCAR events where any combination of folks hooking up their power stuff in an "ad-hock" configuration to meet the needed result happens. So, I have 10 Gauge wire into the rig to meet a 30 AMP requirement that is protected by a 30 AMP circuit breaker. the rest of the wiring in the rig is using 12 Guage wire which is sufficient for 20 AMP outlet needs. When I run on Generator (Less than 30 AMPS but greater than 20 AMPS), the generator has all kinds of power protection built into the generator itself. So, a direct hookup from the rig to the generator is all that is needed. If I plug into a 15 AMP or 20 AMP "shore power" supply, my wiring is sufficient and the shore power has circuit breaker protection already. When I plug into 30 AMP shore power, this is here I have an issue. I have 10 Gauge wire coming into the rig which is the correct gauge for 30 AMPS, but I then have feeders off that to 20 AMP outlets. So, there is risk that I can supply 30 AMPs of power to a 20 AMP outlet. So, that is a flaw in the design that I understand. Finally, when I plug into a 50 AMP circuit, I have an "in line" 30 AMP circuit breaker that I place "in line" between my rig and the power source. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other comments. Cheers.
I'm going to be doing the same thing soon. I've been watching a few of these videos, and I want to say, you are the only one who is doing it the right way. I plan to fir out those walls too. I glued dense cell polystyrene in my utility trailer and it adds a lot to the strength, not to mention the extra r-factor in a small space makes a significant difference. Did you find any gaps that you had to patch?
Ricky Rox I just still don't understand how to wire mine up I'm not a electrician that's for sure I'm trying to learn how to wire to be able to hook up to camp site plug in.
I agree with your comment that I used a power outlet instead of an inlet. Your suggestion would be a better one than what I did. I will say that I chose an inexpensive solution that works fine. There are not many NEMA outdoor enclosure that support the connection I needed without spending approximately 4 times more than what I implemented. Your point is well taken. Cheers!
Hi Scott, I just found your trailer today. A real quick observation, please get rid of the wood holding up the large propane bottle (bomb). having a welder weld a piece of plate onto the frame won't be that expensive. The wood will rot and break and you can bet it will happen at the most inopportune moment. Also, please put some expanding foam up around the front corners on the floor. Just mask them from the outside first so you are not cleaning up ooze. Of course, now as I see the date of this video, I'm quite sure it is done and I will look more to see how it all turned out LOL.. Have a great day.
Why use all that external wire? This should not be used in insulated walls.
Just a heads up, your external covers are not up to code for use in a house.
Need a GFI for outdoor Bud. Nice job👍
I agree with your suggestion and I have added a GFCI to the system. Cheers! Scott
looks like to many recepticals for one power source hope it works out
Agreed. There's a total wattage limit for each circuit. He has everything coming in on a single 20A, no?
How many dual gain outlets for what you say is a 20 amp supply!
The input outlet (should be a plug) but is rated for 15 amps, not 20.
Awesome! Great job.
Too much electrical, hard bends on the wiring, no gfi, 2x4's is overkill, too much weight for that truck.
Nice work.
This is 2 wire. No ground needed?
No, there are three wires and a ground is needed. You would purchase 12/2 (or 14/2, or whatever your application requires). The 12/2 means 12-Gauge that is 2 conductors with a ground (or 3 wires total). FYI, I am not a licensed electrician. Your circuits will have a ground connected to the power source in use (generator, inverter, shore power, etc.).
@@scottsthillier1140 Thank you. All the wire I see at home depot that is stranded seems to be 2, but I am shopping online, so I am glad you clarified. I will go w 12/2, which will be my supply wires, plus ground. Also, does the ground terminate on the inverter ground lug? Obviously my 12 dv circuits ground to the trailer body, but I cannot imagine this being the ground for the ac side. Then again, if it grounds to the inverter lug, what does the inverter do with that current, should it ever be applied?
Your setup helped me a lot. Is there are reason you chose 2x4 framing over 2x2? I would rather have 2x4 mainly for installing thicker insulation, but my cargo trailer being a 6x12 am concerned about loosing interior space, as well as the added weight of a 2x4. Did you think weight difference was a factor? What did you insulate with? Great job on the electric and the vid.
You've got an A.C. 50 amp minimum is
REQUIRED. Way too many service points. The only thing I can see good
About this is the runs are very neat and tidy. Slack off on the hard 90 degree turns. Need about 4 breakers
Minimum. You also have no GFCI outlets. At least put those in for a measure of safety. Install a breaker box inside the trailer. Do stuff right the first time. You will be much happier when you don't trip a breaker every time you turn a light on.
Dude. You added so much weight to that trailer. Get ready to put a new transmission in that truck soon.
Your point it well taken. It is challenging to make Travel Trailers light. The way I built this thing out is definitely not light, so I agree with you. However, I would tell you that it is way lighter than I though it would be. If you count the number of vertical 2x4's and the several sheets of plywood that will finish it, it is less weight than most of the stuff people put in a cargo trailer anyway... I have since upgraded my truck but I tell you that it is not as heavy as you think. But, I do not have tanks for black water, grey water, potable water, plumbing, and toilets and showers and sinks. That stuff weighs a lot. I design was such that all the places I go already have that stuff so there is no need to build it into the camper saving lots of weight and expense. I do "boon dock" at NASCAR events and then I just rent my own porta potty at the event. They charge $99 for the whole event and place it on your camp site where you want it and service it on request (pump out, clean, new supplies, etc.) We use the porta potty as a shower enclosure as I have a high end "pump up" bug sprayer that is dedicated for WATER USE ONLY. That sprayer washes our dishes, serves a a water dispenser (coffee anyone?) and a shower inside the porta potty. It does seem like a lot of weight, and I was worried about that. Now that it is finished, it is fine. I need to weigh it at my local CAT Scales now that it is finished, but I do not have that information at this time. Will post when I get it.
@@scottsthillier1140 add an auxiliary transmission cooler to your truck, if you haven't already. You'll be thankful you did. I learned that lesson the expensive hard way.
Dam why dont you just put wheels on your house
This is not the way to power a trailer or RV for AC power. The use of a load center, available for low money and the requisite circuit breakers, would be safer and the most efficient. Also--Dude, you have a wire nut splice in the ceiling? How hard would it be to install a box in that location? You need to brush up on code and AC distribution. The use of GFCI in exterior receptacles and near water sources is code. Get an electrician buddy and have him look over your circuits. You know what you want but those wires need circuit protection. Dang there's just so much bad here, don't place 12V transformers inside closed cavities. An RV dual voltage load center is not that much and cleverly distributes the needed power. You will have 12V things, like batteries (at least one, anyway) since you will need emergency break-away circuits for the brakes with a trailer that big. I commend you for designing the electrical system for your own personal needs but here's one thing to consider. Since you haven't used the mandated devices, protection, and ways, your trailer will never be certified by an standardization body, meaning you can be turned away at every campground, park, or facility for parking the trailer. Heck, it may not be important, you may use this on your own land for a hunting shack. Get some circuit protection and better distribution and that would be done.
A little over kill on your two gang boxes there skippy. Most houses don't have that much. Lol more two gang extension cords.
That really is to much going on for a 15-20 amp service my friend... try looking in to upgrading to a 30amp minimum
You are going to want one dedicated cct for your air conditioner alone. after that you would maybe want to look in to having at least 2-3 15 amp ccts for all your outlets
That depends. We have a lot of low wattage devices (tablets, phones, computers, etc...) that all require a plug, but not much wattage. Also, I just wanted a lot of outlets for convenience. In any case, there is circuit breaker protection, so there is no need to worry. I built this system for my and my family and the way we use it. I easily operate withing the amperage avaiable even though this is for the way "I use" it verses the way another family would use it. To date, I have never had a breaker trip for us pulling to many amps (even though I have enough outlets to do so). So, I am happy with the design and would not change a thing. Thanks for you comments. Best regards. Scott
I thought I would add an additional thought... When I "hook up" this rig to some form of power, the power source ranges as follows: 15 AMP, 20 AMP, 23.3 AMP (this is on my Yamaha inverter generator), 30 AMP (typically at a camp ground), and 50 AMP (typically at a campground). I also "boon dock" at NASCAR events where any combination of folks hooking up their power stuff in an "ad-hock" configuration to meet the needed result happens. So, I have 10 Gauge wire into the rig to meet a 30 AMP requirement that is protected by a 30 AMP circuit breaker. the rest of the wiring in the rig is using 12 Guage wire which is sufficient for 20 AMP outlet needs. When I run on Generator (Less than 30 AMPS but greater than 20 AMPS), the generator has all kinds of power protection built into the generator itself. So, a direct hookup from the rig to the generator is all that is needed. If I plug into a 15 AMP or 20 AMP "shore power" supply, my wiring is sufficient and the shore power has circuit breaker protection already. When I plug into 30 AMP shore power, this is here I have an issue. I have 10 Gauge wire coming into the rig which is the correct gauge for 30 AMPS, but I then have feeders off that to 20 AMP outlets. So, there is risk that I can supply 30 AMPs of power to a 20 AMP outlet. So, that is a flaw in the design that I understand. Finally, when I plug into a 50 AMP circuit, I have an "in line" 30 AMP circuit breaker that I place "in line" between my rig and the power source. Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other comments. Cheers.
nice job your awning where did u get it?
The manufacturer of the awning is "Dometic" you can go to any RV Sales place to get one.
is that a 24' trailer.watch your weight for your half ton truck.maken a toy hauler for mine.no reason for walls ,just saying
really you made walls along the trailer walls for your outlets.wow
Using romex you will regret that when the sheath breaks down from humidity depending on where you are.
I'm going to be doing the same thing soon. I've been watching a few of these videos, and I want to say, you are the only one who is doing it the right way. I plan to fir out those walls too. I glued dense cell polystyrene in my utility trailer and it adds a lot to the strength, not to mention the extra r-factor in a small space makes a significant difference.
Did you find any gaps that you had to patch?
Please use a power inlet on the trailer and not a power outlet.
Ricky Rox I just still don't understand how to wire mine up I'm not a electrician that's for sure I'm trying to learn how to wire to be able to hook up to camp site plug in.
Thank you so much for your comments. It has worked out for me and everything going really good.
I agree with your comment that I used a power outlet instead of an inlet. Your suggestion would be a better one than what I did. I will say that I chose an inexpensive solution that works fine. There are not many NEMA outdoor enclosure that support the connection I needed without spending approximately 4 times more than what I implemented. Your point is well taken. Cheers!
How long and wide is your trailer Sir
The "Cargo Area" only is 22 feet long by 7.5 feet wide. The overall length is 26 feet. Hope that helps. Scott
Fire and or death waiting to happen. About some backwoods wiring.
lol
Showing how not to do it. Total Mickey Mouse job.