Installing an RV Window in Your Cargo Trailer
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- Опубликовано: 17 май 2018
- In this video, Jack shows us how he installs HIS window in his Stealth Camper cargo trailer.
Jack has converted his cargo trailer into a fully functional camp trailer. Equipped with shower, hot water, refrigerator, and bar style kitchen, and plenty of counter and storage space. Give him a thumbs up! 
Хобби
*Great and Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** Low noisy*
Thank you!
Outstanding video. Installers ALWAYS tell you to NEVER do it your self. You made it look so simple, a "first timer", like me can do it. Thank you for explaining each step.
Thank you Lloyd! This is something you most certainly can do!! DIY! Thanks for stopping by!
Hi Al, Nice job on the window. Jack was very informative and his camper looks real nice. He’s doing a great job on it
Thanks Gary... I will let him know of your compliments, always makes him smile! :)
Hi Guys! I want to thank you for posting this video! I've watched it at least 20 times. It gave me the confidence to install my own windows in my RV. Happy camping guys!
Thanks for watching!! It's really an easy install! You'll do good!
This is the best window installation I've seen. I'm using this technique on my trailer. THANK YOU!!
Awesome! Thank you Tina! Super easy!
Nice work. Just bought my first enclosed trailer project and this was very helpful.
Awesome! Glad it was helpful!
What a delightfully charming and informative video! You have helped give me the confidence to do this myself. Thanks much!
Thank you so much Tim! This is definitely something you can do! Thanks for watching!
Great video! We're remodeling a retired bread truck into a tiny home, and are putting a window in. This is a HUGE confidence-booster. Thanks for taking time to reply to many of the commentors...it answered many of my questions!
That's awesome!! Thanks for stopping by and watching! It really is super easy and I would do it the same way again. You will have no problem and it will look great when you finish! Wishing you the best on your Wheelestate build! Take care, al
GREAT VIDEO! I'm considering installing a couple of RV windows in my cargo trailer/hunting trailer conversion. Your instructional video is exactly what I've been looking for! Thanks for sharing!
Very welcome William! I think as you get started... not as intimidating as one might think! Very easy install! Jack's trailer held up nicely, with no leaks and no problems. Been going strong all this time! Happy building sir, and thanks for stopping by!
Minus the fact that they cut the stud and didn’t build a header or sill plate
Leaving a weak point in the trailers construction.
Potentially breaking the window if load gets put above the window on the roof and or twisting of the trailer.
Window install looked great and the PBR was great choice as well
Thanks Tom! PBR quenches the thirst! :)
Excellent video, very well done, this will be of great help when I go to install my windows. Thanks!
Awesome! Glad it was of some help!
Wow. Very detailed and fascinating to see the process!!
Minus the fact that they cut the stud and didn’t build a header or sill plate
Leaving a weak point in the trailers construction.
Potentially breaking the window if load gets put above the window on the roof and or twisting of the trailer.
WOW I just picked up a Stealth trailer and my goal this winter is to install the insulation, electrical and the windows. Thanks so much for posting. Love the window frame!
Awesome!! Glad you stopped by to watch the video! Happy Building!
A heartfelt thank you! Prior to this video, installing a window was rocket science.
I have performed brain surgery (on myself) and even I was nervous about installing a window. 🤪
😂😂
You guys seemed to be good neighbors. Since I moved to FL decades ago, I hardly had them and in fact if I need anything I pay for it. I don't mind. But is always good to have good neighbors that helped each other. I miss that when I lived in P.R.
Jack is the best... He ended up moving to Boston for a few years but he and his wife moved back and live about 10 minutes away. We still get together and help each other with projects. Good friends are such a blessing!
Another great video Al! That is such a great idea but making a cardboard cutout and putting it against the wall! I really like when he was in the window so that it has that breeze go through the trailer!
Thank you M&P, I appreciate you taking the time to watch! Templates sure are the way to go! :)
OregonBatman haha such a simple concept but it makes such a big difference!
Great tips! Also, I'm loving that B-2 decal up top.
Awesome! Thanks for checking it out!!
I like what you’ve done to the trailer and may have to check back!
Awesome... if you head to my channel, you should be able to find videos on that build.
Really nice camper set up! Might have to steal some ideas in the future.
Thank you ER! Ideas are up for grabs! Hoping this was helpful! Thanks for stopping by!
Thanks so much!
Ill be using your technique very soon
Keep up the great videos
Thanks Jack!
I learned what i needed to know before completing mine!! Thank you!
That's awesome to hear Dustin! I bet it will look great when you are finished!
Beautiful project! Contemplating on embarking on a similar venture when I saw how much it costs to buy a reasonably nice one. These things are gold apparently! The cool thing is that camper trailers have a high resale value, might even turn a profit if you sell this someday.
I know, right? Way cheaper than buying a newer travel trailer, and you can make it just the way you want! Thanks for watching!
I realize this is an older video, but i wanted to say nicely done. I am confident i can put my larger window in now. Thanks!
Thank you Gold n Gurl!! You got this... no fear! Thank you for checking it out!
You appear to have cut through a vertical support rib about dead center in the window opening. Failing to support around that cut will bite you later since this is a structural member of the trailer frame. Also, you are depending on the thin paneling and foam insulation to support the sandwich squeeze of the trim ring and window. I have always used rigid framing or blocks to support this compression.
Thanks Ron! Plenty of support. The window is close to the rear corner which has a substantial amount of aluminum, and the cabinet on the other side of the window also adds to any support needed. There is no load on the roof, so no pressure pushing down. The walls also add support as they are fastened to the frame members throughout... going strong for about two years now and lots of traveling. No worries here!
I've watched a few installations and this is the best one yet. Great video and info, thanks for sharing and happy travels. 🍻✌
@@OregonBatman Hey man... I am considering leaving out cross-members as well, and now you're 4 years out... i'm looking to do 1 window on each side directly above my tandem axle... is it still going strong?
@@JoshuaAdkisson Sold the trailer long time ago... but up until then, and many road trips, trailer held up strong and no movement on anything. I would have no problem doing it all over again!
This may be the most helpful video on all RUclips.
Thank you! We apppreciate that a lot! Thank you for taking the time to watch!
Very nice Thank you.
For the cut, try using a tool called a nibler. It is a tool use in the light metal trade and makes cut on metal sheets with accuracy working in a push pull fashion similar to a jig saw without all the grabbing that a blade can do distorting edges of the cut. Instead of a blade it uses a tiny reciprocating die, taking small bites leaving shavings in the shape of tiny halfmoons. Not very expensive.
Found one at Home Despot for $60. If you intend to use it often then the $150 model would likely last longer.
But it won’t cut threw the panelling on the inside.
Nibler would not work
nice work - good luck with the rest
From the details I can see, the window is good for the right-side. During a rainy trip, pressurized air and water will enter in through the two pieces of the window. This is an aerodynamic issue. Thanks for sharing!
Good observation, I'll make sure Jack watches for that. If there is any blow back, I'm sure he'll flip it over. Thank you for pointing that out!
Μy question to another youTuber and his answer.
Q. Are there any differences between right and left windows?
A. What a great question! There is actually, at least on our RV. Because the side of the windows that slide are inset behind the stationary sections, the stationary side is pretty flush with the outside bodywork. So, looking out the windows from inside... on the DRIVER'S side of the RV, the sliding sections of each window are on the LEFT, and slide to the right, and on the CURB side of the RV, the sliding sections are on the RIGHT and slide to the left. That means that the sliding section always slide toward the FRONT of the RV to open, and toward the rear to close, meaning that the stationary sections are always forward of the sliding ones. I'm pretty sure that's done to prevent rain from being driven into the seam between the sections while driving at speed, since the stationary (more flush) sections are always forward of the sliding (inset) sections. Hope that's clear!
Thank you ioannis for doing the research! I will be talking with Jack today and let him know we need to flip his window over... I am sure he will be thrilled, but you are correct, I think it is something he will need to do to keep the water out! :) Thanks again!
Also check the rear left window in your travel trailer. Part 35...
Cheers!
Yup... mine is same way as Jacks. Never even noticed that! I will keep an eye on it as I am traveling. Next time I'm at surplus store, I'll shop for a couple more windows! :)
PBR - perfect beer for the occasion!! ps Great video too.
I think that is Jack's favorite of the day! :) Thanks for stopping by Greg!
Last year I watched this to install a window on my custom camper build, and I just came back to watch again for my second window I’m putting in. Great video, thanks for the information. Trying to remember what size screw jack told us to use 😅
Hey! Thanks for coming back! I think the screws that Jack used was something like #6 x 5/8, or #8 x 5/8 self tappers. I think either one of them will work! :)
@@OregonBatman thanks for the reply! That’s what I thought, I knew he said it’s an important to not use ones that are too long. Thanks again, cheers
Great vid!! I have 3 to install tomorrow. I like your interior frame idea. It looks great!! I was wondering how I was going to make that work. The rings I have are too deep also. Thanks again!!!
Awesome! Your install will turn out great! Thanks Duck Hunter!
Best video for me so far to start my window install in for my cargo transformation to a sleeper camper! Thank you
Thank you Melissa! Super easy! You'll be camping in no time!
Nice job.
Thank you! Appreciate you stopping by!
great install, great video, kool camping trailer, /
i had to live in mine as tiny home so made 3 inch insulated walls, 1 inch rigid not bead in walls with 3/4 loose fit spray foam seal
then factory walls painted
and reinstalled with 1 more inch of rigid with seams caulked,
over the last foam put on thermal emergency blanket which reflects heat back in 99%
then with 3 inch # 10 self tap installed 7/16 inch chip board so can mount anything anywhere..
the only problem was every self tap screw had dot of moisture rest of wall 0 sweat, even in -40 f
single pain window iced up, never can find double pain???
3 inches of spray foam on the roof furred out with 1 x 4 angled truss , secured with pipe strap / 0.0 drip condensation..
hope this helped more to say, but cant type it too long...
Sounds like a warm build! I thought about building an "Arctic Travel Trailer" with 4" insulation from floor to walls to ceiling. Maybe in an up and coming build, that's what I plan on building. Like the idea of staying warm with minimal energy! Hope you post a video of your build, or the finished build... I think that would be cool! Thanks for stopping by!
Nice camper !
Thanks Mike M!
I like the cabinetry,great job...
Thanks Steve, I will let Jack know you said that!
Another well-produced video. Your Neighbor's unit looks great. I do think he may have installed the window upside down though? May want to flip it. Thanks so much for sharing.
at 8:20΄ I can see clearly the frame has two drain holes. So the upside down may not work. Left and right side windows for cars, campers, boats etc have differences. No problem if not move the trailer on raining days...
I am thinking that is why he installed it the way he did. The drain holes on the bottom. But I am thinking he can plug those and drill new drain holes after it is flipped over
Thanks Mordrayso! I will be letting Jack know he may have to turn the window over to avoid getting water inside. :)
awesome. I wanna buy Jack a beer for that how to :D
LOL! I'll let Jack know he has a cold one comin! :)
Your cutting sheet metal. Yes. There is something on the market I came across is way better then a jigsaw. Just check it out if you want to. I bought it threw Amazon. Called, Double-headed Cutter, YT-160A. Just trying to pass something that mint work for anyone doing sheet metal.
Hey Michael! Thanks for the input... great little tool! Indeed, anyone needing to cut a smooth line through sheet metal, this tool just might be the ticket! Thanks again!
It has a trim ring. I was looking for how to put a used RV window into a cargo trailer. 2" RV thickness in a 1 5/16 Cargo trailer wall.
Do you think you will run into any problems?
Learning how it is done. Would have thought that ??clear RTV or? between the inside and the ?plywood spacer to keep stuff from between the two? Rather then putting it on after? Looked good.
Thank you for stopping by! Holding up very well, nice and dry! Had a lot of good times so far!
Window is mounted upside down. Stationary portion of window should be forward to prevent leakage while traveling in rain
Oh Jesus...you hit the nail on the head! Certainly They'll remove it and change its position!
Nope... leaving it as is! :) Until it leaks! LOL!
@@OregonBatman I can lend you my squeegee if wished! lol
LOL! Hopefully won't need it!
Jack knows a good beer anyway "PBR"
LOL! Sure does! :)
Love this vid...I just made the decision to make my own this week...and this vid really gave me a visual of the window install...I just got one question...is there a reason you shouldn't make the initial cut from the inside rather than the outside?
Glad you stopped by darjen76! The main reason I would make the cut from the outside is the saw blade has a tendency to curve out a bit when cutting. Instead of a nice 90 degree cut, the blade begins to bend outward and creating a larger hole than normal. It is much easier to hide on the inside if this happens, but if it happens on the outside... that may ruin a perfectly good day! Hope that is of help to you! Cheers!
Union made ! He'll yea brother
Great idea to put durabond tape around widow b4 putting it in
Absolutely!! If there was a leak, better to have water run outside or inside than in between! Thanks for checking it out!
Well that ain’t gonna rattle loose any time soon.
About to add couple windows to my enclosed trailer and I noticed my windows I purchased (used) did not come with the screws. What does the screws thread into? I noticed my inside cr60 ring has holes but the window frame does not
The outside window frame has a groove ring that the screws fasten into. Insert window, install ring w/holes and use #6 x 5/8 self tapping screws. I never trusted the self tapping (figured I screw something up!) so I always pre-drilled into the window frame (be careful not to go all the way through! LOL! Really hope that helps. Set the inside ring on the window frame and see how it lines up with the groove... that will be what you fasten the screws to.
Prior to doing the interior you should have modified the framing to accept the window with two horizontal braces. This transfers all weight off the window and onto the framing.
I'm thinking, had we known we were going to install a window there (didn't have the window at the time of building), we would have framed to wall for the window. As it it, there is plenty of support by the rear corner and cabinet next to the window. The window installed next to entry door was framed for the window (no video on that one). All is working just great though, no sags, no leaks. Appreciate you stopping by!
I agree if you pre-planned. But as it is the inside cabinet acts as a header and the siding will absorb some of the weight which really isn't that much. It will be okay for years to come.
Love the layout, what’s behind the cabinets to the passenger side of the shower?
Hi Andrew! That is the kitchen area. There is a sink and counter space with more cabinets above. There is a video of a walk through of our finished trailers; if you go to my channel, you will find it there with all of the other videos. Thanks for watching!
Nice Video with good narration guys. Also like the make-shift ring you had to make for spacing! Did jack build that with one piece of wood because it looks like he may have glued together parts of it? I have to make one myself. Any tips on measuring (and cutting) the outside of “the ring?” What did you use for your wall panels? Looks good! Thanks!
Thanks Kinko! Jack made the ring in four pieces and glued together (sort of like a picture frame). For the cutout, use the inside of the trim ring to draw the line to cutout, the ring should slip inside. Then mark it 2" all the way around and cut. Sand it smooth, nice round edges, stain... BOOM, you're done! :) The walls are 1/4" ply fastened to the studs of the trailer. Hope that helps! Thanks for stopping by!
Hi there, great video! Just curious what the overall wall thickness is including the wood ring? My wall thickness is just over 1 3/4”. All the windows I find online fit 1 1/2”, have you found a good online retailer that sells RV windows for thicker wall thicknesses? Thanks!
Hello Vince! I think the wall thickness was around 1-1/2 total. The ring that we had for the window was for 2" thickness. I purchased the window at Affordable RVing near Portland. They have a good selection. Try finding the ring for 2" wall, not necessarily the window itself. Address and website: Give them a call and see if they have what you need. You can always take several smaller window rings for 2" walls and piece them together to make one... :) Affordable Rving, 15555 SE McLoughlin Blvd, Milwaukie, OR 97267. (503) 659-3610 www.affordablervparts.com/ Hope that helps! Thanks for stopping by!
Great video, thank you. I bough a AP ThoughGrade 1"1/2 thick window.
I'm comfused because it doesn't come with screws. What size screws did you use?
Thanks for watching... if the ring touches the window frame when installed, a #6 x 5/8 0r #6 x 3/4 self tapping screw will work
I'm about to pull the trigger on a 5x8x6. Galvanized.
That's awesome sir! Good size, and be able to tow with just about anything!
Is there any need to put a (header)on the top and bottom? for strength?? nice job , where did you purchase the windows?
Not on the back window. Jack felt he had enough support with the back corner tubing and the wall he installed. The front window, he did add support top and bottom (aluminium). We got the windows from Affordable RVing 15555 SE McLoughlin Blvd, Milwaukie, OR 97267 (503) 659-3610 Great store and great people! Thanks for stopping by!!
Looks like putty tape, not butyl Jack put down before window went in. I'm not sure but it looks backwards. The fixed pane needs to be towards the front.
Nice job. Because of the frame not locking in place being wider ...did the wood frame hold up from any motion in the window and have you had any leaks at all?
Held up great! Not one leak after all of the travels. Plenty of support throughout, and no worries. Thanks for checking it out
This is very helpful
! Thanks . What are you putting the interior screws into? Do you drill into the exterior window frame? Thanks again!
Thank you! Yes, the inside ring has holes that line up to a groove on the exterior window. You can use self tapping screws to attach ring to window. Actually a very easy install. Looking back, we wished we would have video of installing ring to window! Thank you for watching!
OregonBatman thanks
Yer welcome!
Great information -- I might suggest that Jack wear safety glasses. That's a LOT of metal flying off that drill and saw!
True that! I think somewhere along the line I stopped him and gave him a pair of safety glasses to wear! :)
No matter what tool - safety glasses are important! Handling cut metal edges without gloves - tut tut.
Good tip BizzySuzy! No excuse for not being safety minded first!
Was the window installed between the support frame ribs, or was a rib cut through? Nice interior plan.
Hi James, and thanks for stopping by... The window opening was cut through one of the studs in the wall. No issues with support as the top of the trailer has a very large and wide aluminum trim and the window is also close to the back corner which is also supported by the aluminum corner molding. There is a cabinet installed close to the window also adding any needed support. Definitely not worried about sagging or any leaking. Installation was very easy! Thanks again!
Converting a cargo this spring. Great video. I was worried about needing to put in a header......the carpenter in me is overthinking everything. What witdth butyl tape do you recomment for a 1.5" wall?
I would try to find something no less than two inches, and you might want to overlap that so it seals really well!
best video how to install a window.
Minus the fact that they cut the stud and didn’t build a header or sill plate
Leaving a weak point in the trailers construction.
Potentially breaking the window if load gets put above the window on the roof and or twisting of the trailer.
So its ok to cut a metal wall brace out when adding a window? No need to run a horizontal bracket between the other 2 wall braces ?
Yes sir... that's what we did. There is plenty of support from back wall, cabinets, roof rails, etc., The metal stud is really there for the aluminium siding to have something to attach to without moving. Once the window was in place, all was solid again. Thanks DCLEMMS for stopping by!
Did you have to cut the hole a little larger than your template to allow for the everbond tape?
Hi Michael! Yes sir... cut out is 1/8" larger all around to accommodate the tape and and just enough wiggle room to line things up. The ring is just a bit larger than the window, so made the pattern from the ring, cut the hole to the ring size and fit perfect. Best to cut to the ring, then if needed, can always trim a little more off if needed.
I appears that you cut the vertical member carrying load from the roof to the deck. The plywood interior frame should help if that is the case...hopefully.
Hello Sid! Structurally... it's sound. The new walls and cabinet added plenty of support, and the window (while not much) will aid in tying all together. The roof also has several beams spanning the length so no chance of sagging. Holding up very well indeed with no movement at all. Thanks for stopping by!
That’s super sketchy, hope you don’t go off-road.
hi gentlemen, really helpful info here. I'm just sizing up a build and I'm wondering if you can fit a window trim to any wall thickness by using longer screws? My walls will be fairly thick and it's not always easy to find windows with the right window trim thickness to match the walls. BTW, where did you source your windows?
Hey Jonathan! Yup... you can fit the windows into thicker walls. You can always make a ring to fit inside to fill the gap using wood. Install window from outside, add wooden ring to inside, then fit the inside metal ring and use longer screws to attach, BOOM, you're done! I purchased my windows from an RV surplus store, but you can also find them at Vintage Technologies, good people to work with. Here's the link:
www.teardroptrailerparts.com/windows.html
Hope that helps!
@@OregonBatman right on about the home made extender ring, never thought of that. Pretty straight forward! Keep up the awesome work! Thanks.
Why did you overlap the tape on the side, and not at the bottom ? I'm just trying to learn.
Thanks A B... we overlapped the tape on the side in case water happened to leak through. If we had a seam at the bottom, water could potentially leak through. Wanted to make sure water couldn't get through and into the wall. Hope that helps! Thanks for stopping by!
Good to know so when he was using jig saw he actually hit the studs and cut them all in one pass?
Yes... one stud actually, center of window. Easy cut.
And removing this stud won't hurt the structure? No need for a frame? I see that some guys weld a box frame around the opening.
Where he place the window actually had lots of support. Lots of structure at roof and rear corner. The cabinet also added support near the window. Hasn't experienced any movement or sag as of yet. Very well built trailer! The window by the door, he did add extra support once the window was cut out. So far, all is well!
What fasteners did you use to connect the window? I bought my window on eBay & they didn’t come with any hardware.
Most of these RV windows come with a #6 x 1/2 self tapping screw... I think we ended up using a #6 x 5/8 self tapper. I like to pre-drill the holes, so we used a smaller drill bit then fastened the screws tight. Thanks for stopping by Jack!
Hi jack I notice that when you install your window below your cabinet you cut out ONE of your trailer stud did you? Now by cutting the stud didn’t you weakened the wall on the trailer?
Hey Isaac! The studs are for the attachment of the aluminum panels. The panels support the sides. The aluminum trim around the top of trailer is very rigid so not going to be any sag (no weight on top anyway). Cabinetry inside also added to support. The window, once installed, also adds a little support. Paneling inside also adds to the support... no need to over engineer or overbuild the thing. We installed this window and went on many road trips. No leaks or issues. I would gladly do it again. :) Cheers!
Good vid... Curious - any issues with screws holding? I just got a new RecPro window, but noticed the aluminum frame edge has a "fold" (like a channel groove) that the screws go into (there's no pre-drilled holes in the frame like there is in the trim ring, but rather a channel), but it doesn't seem like when the screws are screwed in, the screws would push/spread the channel slightly, not giving good hold on the screws. (Hope I explained this ok)
Anyone else notice this? Any issues?
Did you just use self-drilling metal screws or regular metal screws?
Didn't notice that on this window, but the ones installed in the 6 x 12 RV I built did. I noticed the screws would back off and fall out. Used some locktite to keep them in place, seemed to work. Last resort would have been to drill and fasten from the outside.
So did you have metal frames that you cut through? You didn't mention it. Last video I saw the trailer had wood frame. Can you tell me if yours was metal?
Yes, this had metal frames that we cut through... thanks for watching
I am interested in taking off my rear side door and cutting a hole to create a store front display window as an fabricated option...Do you think this is possible ?
I do... the side supports studs are really attachment points for the sides. If you plan on adding weight to the roof, then you might consider adding supports for the weight. Hope that helps!
The interior wood frame looks nice, but all you had to do was flip the interior aluminum frame the other way to gain the extra distance that the wood gave you. The interior frame can either indent out 3/4 of an inch, or indent inwards 3/4 of an inch depending how far the outside window intrudes.
Thanks ajriing! Yeah... Jack turned it that way first but didn't like the looks of it so he decided on the wood trim. He liked that a lot better! :)
My first build I had a guy help who "knew it all" and the windows got attached to the outer skin. Worked fine, but the wall was thicker and the whole window and frame and all was inset from the interior, a mess, but I made a nice frame and it looks so so so much better than any RV I have ever seen. Sometimes fixes turn out to be the best move.
So true!
I'm Thai, the material is rare, and if you buy Cargo Trailer imported into Thailand, then it would be difficult. But if you buy a trailer, you help decorate. How many dollars?
Greetings to you in Thai! The cargo trailer cost about $3500 USD and after the conversion, would probably sell for around $7500 USD. I hope that helps. Wish you well!
what is the tape you applied to cover up the instalation before you applied the Butyl Tape?
We used Eternabond tape. Seam at the top to prevent any leaks from coming through and entering the insulation. Good stuff! Thanks for checkig it out!
Is butyl tape better than RTV (aka silicone caulk) for sealing the window rim against the trailer exterior? It seems he was going to use it over the edges on top of the tape.
Hey Joe... in my opinion, yes. Butyl is much better than the silicone. It seals better, does not dry out or peel off. Once the butyl is used, and window installed, we went around windows with silicone. But the butyl will seal much better than RTV (in my opinion). Thanks for stopping by!
@@OregonBatman Just be aware that nearly all silicone caulk, including the "100%" stuff claimed, actually has acetic acid in it as part of the manufacturing process for curing. That's why it has the vinegar-type smell which people think is the silicone, but it's not--it's the acid. In applications in contact with metal, this is less than ideal no matter what the silicone manufacturer may suggest as it promotes reaction / oxidation / corrosion. In contact with metals, it is better to use a more inert caulk like Lexel clear or white.
That is a good piece of advice! Thank you... won't be using silicone on next project! Thanks again for the input!
I'm getting ready to start a conversion. Just curious.. did you cut thru any of the wall studs when you cut your window hole? Or is your trailer a 24" OC and you cut the window in between the studs? Did you have to frame a wood frame for support?
HI Joe! Thanks for stopping by! The window opening was cut through one of the studs in the wall (16 x 16 centers). No issues with support as the top of the trailer has a very large and wide aluminum trim and the window is also close to the back corner which is also supported by the aluminum corner molding. There is a cabinet installed close to the window also adding any needed support. Definitely not worried about sagging or any leaking. Installation was very easy! Thanks again!
@@OregonBatman Awesome. Thx for the reply. I'm picking up a brand new ATC Raven 6x12 this weekend. Its all aluminum. But its 24"OC not 16'OC. I think I'm gonna try to install the windows in between studs to avoid cutting into them. Being 24" OC.. I don't want to risk any of the structural integrity.
That is awesome! Beginning of a great build! 24" is the ticket, should have no problem fitting a window between the studs there! Wishing you the best on your project!
OregonBatman ended up going with a 7x14 instead of the 6x12. After seeing them both in person.. the 6x12 seemed a bit too small for my plans.
That is the perfect size! Jack said he would like to build another cargo conversion, but if he did, he wanted something bigger... a 7 x 14. It will make for a better sleeping arrangement being that the bed is side to side (width). So I think you made a great choice! Now the fun begins! :) Keep me posted of your progress... it's going to turn out great!
How did you determine if there was a metal frame piece in the wall at that location or not?
Hi Dan! The walls on the inside had a seam that the fasteners were attached to the frame. Pretty much just centered the window on that and made the cut.
@@OregonBatman thank you.
I was planning on adding windows that fit between the trailer frame uprights because I didn't want to try and weld in cross brace like I have seen in other videos. You didn't put in any cross bracing. How is everything holding up?
Hi Dave! Jack ended up selling his trailer... but in the year that we had the chance to go camping, all was well. The trailer still has plenty of support with cabinetry, and all of the wide aluminum trim at the top. Never intended to add a lot of weight to the top, so wasn't worried. After all the trips we made, held up fine!
OregonBatman , thanks for the quick response. I just finished ordering 14” wide windows to stay within the framing. With motorcycle side vents, a roof vent, and a fan, I should be OK for ventilation and a view of my surroundings. I’m putting an RV latch on the side door and am thinking about latching the ramp door from the inside so I can push it open if I need to escape for some reason.
Good deal! Fan will be nice! Only thing Jack never got around to installing in his trailer. Not sure about yours, but we did end up installing two windows for the trailer, one right next to door. Gave a good cross breeze. Happy building! Fun times ahead!
No wall post?
If the windows is 16 x 36 ,?
Hi Gomex cam! Window is approximately 16 x 22, no post. The trailer is built fairly light and with the back corner and cabinet as supports... no worries. Been traveling and camping without any issues so far. Window slides easy, so no sagging that we can tell. Thanks for stopping by!
How did you guys manage to avoid the metal studs that should be at 16 inch centers. Is the window width narrower then say 15.5 inches?
He centered the stud on the window actually. The window was wider than the stud spacing. I don't think he is too worried about anything moving.
DUDE THAT BEER IS HUGE.
Big job! Needed lots of liquid courage! :)
Where do you find the eternal bond tape? Is that a specific type of tape
You can find it at most RV stores... or look on Amazon, they have it also
Did u cut through a stud? If so I'd u add support.
Thanks for the question. Plenty of support. The window is close to the rear corner which has a substantial amount of aluminum, and the cabinet on the other side of the window also adds to any support needed. There is no load on the roof, so no pressure pushing down. The walls also add support as they are fastened to the frame members throughout... going strong for about two years now at that point, and lots of traveling. No worries here!
Did the window fit between the studs?
Hello Eileen... one of the studs had to be cut to accommodate the window. The window is very close to the back corner which has a HUGE amount of support, also... the cabinet that Jack has built acts a support. So far... all is very well. Several trips later, nothing has moved. The trailer is very light weight as it is, so worries of any sag from the roof. The window by the door also had a stud cut out. For that side, a stud (header, footer) was added to keep things rigid. Thank you for watching!
What are the screws going into? Trim ring then into?
Two piece window. Screws go into trim ring and fasten to window, that's what holds it in place
Did you have to cut through any studs?
Yes... cut through one stud. Easy install
Can someone help me out with finding a solution for having too thick of a wall? I have at least 1 7/8" thick wall (1.5 stud and 3/8 plywood)
Not sure how he has too thin of a wall he needed a frame.
It's all in the sixe (depth) of the trim ring. When we boaught this window, it came with a trim ring for a 1-3/4" to 2" wall thickness, so we had to add the frame to make up the distance. Could have shopped around for a small size trim but this worked just as well and looked nice too. You will need to find a trim ring that will fit a 2" wall thickness.
These are good americans.
Great video , I looked for but didn't find the video of the tour of Jack's conversion. Also could you tell me the manufacture and size. Thanks
Hi Eldwood... we did a walk through of his trailer just before the first trip, should be able to see his trailer here: ruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&ar=1&video_id=7MxxUuUAnXk also, the video of our first trip, Jack goes over the hot water install. I really wished he had taken more pictures and video of his progress.
Yes I agree , looks like a fantastic build . I'm getting ready to start my build in a 6x12 V nose , I've yet to purchase . is Jack's a 6 or 7' width? Also which manufacture makes the Stealth brand? I'm in NW Washington so if it's built in Oregon it's still in my pick up area.
I tried the linkruclips.net/user/edit?o=U&ar=1&video_id=7MxxUuUAnXk and guess its gone. Thanks for your time . Elwood
Hope you post videos of your build... always good to see what others create! Jack's trailer is 6 feet in width, and I think that is inside dimension. He has a 6 x 12 cargo trailer, I think you can check the site out at www.stealthtrailer.com. Sorry about the link, not sure why it wasn't working for you, you can still find it here "How To Build A DIY Travel Trailer - Part 85 (The Build is Finished!)". Jack did a fine job!
@@OregonBatman I get a "No videos found." message following the link provided. Would really like to see more of Jack's build.
Sorry about that John... appears to be another one of RUclips's glitches. If you do a search on "How To Build A DIY Travel Trailer - Part 85 (The Build is Finished!)" should be able to find the video. You will see my trailer in the thumbnail, but it's more about Jack's trailer than mine around the 3:20 mark! Hope that helps!
Stealth trailers seem to be a very good trailer from the reviews I've researched. Has it been a good trailer in your opinion?
Hi Jim Esser! Jack said this has been one of the best trailers he's owned. IF he ever bought another trailer, he would drive to New Hampshire (where he bought this one) and pick one up. That is how much he likes this trailer. Good construction, good material, and extremely light. Even after he completed this cargo trailer build, it still only topped out at 1700 pounds. Not bad when you consider the trailer I built (the same size, 6 x 12) weighed in at 2050 pounds.... and his has a nice shower! :)
Where did you get the window??? and all the hardware to install it?
Purchased the window and all of the hardware at Affordable RVing in Milwaukee Oregon near Portland. Good people
What is the actual "brand" or specific name of the white tape? (internal bond tape or "eternal" bond tape?) That is a great idea. Great video!
Hey Rick... thanks for checking it out! The tape is best known as 3M 4412N EXTREME SEALING TAPE you can find it on ULINE website. Hope that helps!
What are the two types of tapes names which he used? Kindly if someone write it for me.
Butyl Tape (Putty Tape), and Eterna-Bond
Where did you purchase the window from?
Affordable RVing 15555 SE McLoughlin Blvd, Milwaukie, OR 97267 Phone: (503) 659-3610 Great people!
Did you cut the wall stud? I'm wanting to do this but my studs are only 16 inch apart and my window is 20 inch.
Sure did. Studs were 16" apart as well... installed window and trailer has plenty of support, so no worry. Held up great!
@@OregonBatman interesting, so no structural issues? That's my only concern. It's an all aluminum trailer
@@seb42 No issues. The framing is for the attachment of the aluminum panels. The panels support the sides. The aluminum trim around the top of trailer is very rigid so not going to be any sag (no weight on top anyway). Cabinetry inside also added to support. The window, once installed, also adds a little support. Paneling inside also adds to the support... no need to over engineer or overbuild the thing. We installed this window and went on many road trips. No leaks or issues. I would gladly do it again. :) Cheers!
So what is the part you need where you substituted the wood frame on the inside? And where do you buy the tapes used around the frame of the outside of the windows?
Hey Napper. The walls of the trailer was about an inch thick or so... the ring we used for the window was for wall thickness of 1-1/2 to 1-3/4". So instead of waiting around for a new ring or driving 6 hours round trip, we used what we had and made the wooded ring so all would fit nicely. Worked, and looked good. Cheers!
OregonBatman from what I’ve seen most the windows say they’re for 1 1/2” and I’m trying to do the same thing to my cargo trailer. Just ordered the windows and rings so I’m guessing I’m gonna run into this same problem and need to do the same thing you guys did
Yup... check out Vintage Technologies website for the windows. They specialize in Teardrop parts and I do believe they have the windows and rings for 3/4" walls. That's where I purchased the doors from. Fit my 3/4" walls perfectly!
OregonBatman ahh wish I would have known before. The windows and rings are already on the way lol.
@@NAPP3R That will be for your NEXT build!! :)