It is a pleasure to see someone who knows traditional carpentry. And he executes it in a very correct way. I am a third generation carpenter by inheritance, and I am disappointed to see many here show their work with very sophisticated machinery, doing very good and high quality jobs, but without that electrical and electronic equipment, they would not know what to do. I really like to see that you know how to use the frizo boxes and their utility. You are an excellent carpenter. Greetings from Necaxa Puebla. Mexico.
Great video. Just acquired and rebuilt 4 moulding planes one of which is the model you just used in the video. After I reshape the blade a tad I'll build that jig and give this a shot.
You are as good as gold. There is quite a few blokes copying your work in the US posting you tube. They could have at least mentioned your channel. Cheers.
I have a wooden cove moulding plane that does this with one plane with no jig. The plane has a 45 degree corner so that you can reference the plane to your bench at a 45 degree angle. You place the plane up against your workpiece and slide it down the bench on the reference part of the plane, which presents the iron at the correct angle to the workpiece to achieve the cove moulding without the iron cutting your bench. I suppose you could start off with another plane to get some of the waste removed, but you can accomplish the whole cove with only one plane, and no jig; just need to secure the workpiece to the bench using dogs or clamps. The number of planes used in this video seems overkill to me.
Hello Simon, it seems, that I can't buy a hollow / molding planer in Germany. Do you know a shop or adress who I can buy some of these cool planers? Whats you recommandation for buying -I`m a beginner? Best regards, Karsten PS: Sorry for my english .. hope you understand my question.
k loren Hi Karsten, Dieter Schmid has a great shop in Germany www.fine-tools.com or Mike Hancock in the UK www.classichandtools.com We have a complete beginners' course in Book and DVD www.artisancoshop.com/eu/ We will be building on this course over the coming years. Have fun with your woodwork!
It seems that the "curved blade plane", a/k/a a "round " plane, needs to ride against an existing straight edge. That existing straight edge was created, in this case, by the modified marking gauge followed by the 2 wooden-bodied rebate, or "rabbet", planes that left a "V' shaped groove. It was THIS groove that the "round" plane was riding against. Had he started out withe the "round", he may have ended up with a very wiggly cove. Hope this helps.
Showpro's explanation is the main reason. There's another though. Flat bladed planes, such as a Stanley #4, are easy to sharpen and can remove a lot of material quickly. Moulding plane blades, with their various curves, can be a hassle to sharpen. So putting less wear and tear on them allows you to devote more time to planing and less time to sharpening.
Of course a router works fine too, especially for repetitive work. But some of us don't care for the noise and dust of power tools. It's not as much about achieving the final result quickly. It's more about taking pleasure in the work along the way.
Nice job, however, this to me demonstrates the possibility rather than practicality of hand cutting this type of moulding. Five planes and a slot cutter?? here i will definitely break out the router and cove cutting bit.
Thanks for the comments. Yep, for this size of molding, reaching for a cove cutter and the power router is definitely the way forwards, unless you are simply enjoying yourself. I find using hand tools a whole load of fun, quiet, no dust and I guess it's a challenge. I suppose what I could have done was demonstrate the same process with a big No.18 round plane, as the only practical alternative for a really big cove (2" radius ?) would be a $5000 spindle older, plus all that expensive tooling...ha ha! All the best!
***** It was good to put a question mark after the 2" radius as I believe you said you used a two inch diameter piece of plastic to mark the arc. I agree 100% with the serenity and lack of dust in the air and fun of the challenge... and... I hope I never am required to produce this cove in quantities beyond a modest picture frame )))). Looking forward to more.
jaxplane I've got one more in this set of five videos - reinforcing a miter with a spline or tongue (hand methods of course! ha ha!) And of course, a biscuit jointer would have it done in a jiffy, so it comes down to pure and simple fun again. I have got through boxfuls of biscuits when I was shop fitting and I enjoy using my biscuit jointer. The video should be up in a couple of days! All the best mate, Simon
***** Ill be looking forward to it )). Biscuits on a miter is a good idea. I have stopped using biscuits when making a panel from several boards as ive found no additional strength but a modest advantage of board alignment. I love splines with miters. I saw a gentlemen doing half lap miters, supremely strong but just too much investment in time, or was it that i failed to duplicate his work in a presentable manner he he.? P.S. Do you plan to continue offering these on You Tube or plan to progress as did Paul Sellers? Cherrio pip pip....
jaxplane Totally agree about biscuits and panels...why bother? Right now, we're shooting some DVDs to go with my new book, Working Wood 3, but I'll always be doing short films on nifty ways to do things, just for a laugh! My main interest is in producing a solid course, with high teaching standards and excellent production values. I guess we've all got to aim for something! I get a real buzz from folks suddenly understanding methods and techniques that they thought were way out of their league. I've just started a woodworking club, which is fun!
No, no, no never add stuff that’s unneeded, when you need to do that, you did something wrong in your design. Not for fun Scandinavian and Japanese design is so sort after, you don’t add anything that don’t have a function. Keep building granny furnitures.
Хобби
It is a pleasure to see someone who knows traditional carpentry. And he executes it in a very correct way. I am a third generation carpenter by inheritance, and I am disappointed to see many here show their work with very sophisticated machinery, doing very good and high quality jobs, but without that electrical and electronic equipment, they would not know what to do. I really like to see that you know how to use the frizo boxes and their utility. You are an excellent carpenter. Greetings from Necaxa Puebla. Mexico.
Very clear description from a great craftsman. Thank you for this beautiful and timeless video. I’m deeply addicted to traditional methods.
Calm, clear description, matched by the quality of the video work.
Excellent presentation.
Many thanks.
Great video. Just acquired and rebuilt 4 moulding planes one of which is the model you just used in the video. After I reshape the blade a tad I'll build that jig and give this a shot.
Very clear and informative without any plane fetishism. Thanks!
That adapted marking gauge is a clever bit of business! Nice craftsmanship, too!
Love these videos where you work with tools that go at a human pace instead of a machines - very rich and valuable:)
Top Man Simon, was a pleasure watching a craftsman displaying his talent.
You are as good as gold. There is quite a few blokes copying your work in the US posting you tube. They could have at least mentioned your channel. Cheers.
A pleasure to watch a true craftsman.
Never new how this was done. Super informative.
I watched this before but I will need to watch it again sometime, learning, thank you.
Thank you
Just happened across your videos. Like very much your calm demeanor and simple explanations. Thank you very much. Look forward to watching more...rr
Excellent presentation!
Great job! Thanks for sharing!
Amazing. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
⭐️ thankyou for sharing your knowledge ⭐️ 👍
Simple and beautiful! thanks
Can you add video on making your molding jig for the bench? I really appreciate your videos. Extremely helpful
I agree With Graham, great job
I have a wooden cove moulding plane that does this with one plane with no jig. The plane has a 45 degree corner so that you can reference the plane to your bench at a 45 degree angle. You place the plane up against your workpiece and slide it down the bench on the reference part of the plane, which presents the iron at the correct angle to the workpiece to achieve the cove moulding without the iron cutting your bench. I suppose you could start off with another plane to get some of the waste removed, but you can accomplish the whole cove with only one plane, and no jig; just need to secure the workpiece to the bench using dogs or clamps. The number of planes used in this video seems overkill to me.
koku you are the man....
He knows how to teach!
Well done Simon
Ok, did you get your endorsement sorted out?
Thank you for the lesson, any chance for a plan of the sticking board please?
woa thats some antique tools
Did you mention the type of wood: poplar is always best, but cant tell what you're using?
Please, what is that vise hung up on the wall in the far-right side of the screen? What is his purpose?
Hello Simon,
it seems, that I can't buy a hollow / molding planer in Germany. Do you know a shop or adress who I can buy some of these cool planers? Whats you recommandation for buying -I`m a beginner?
Best regards,
Karsten
PS: Sorry for my english .. hope you understand my question.
k loren Hi Karsten,
Dieter Schmid has a great shop in Germany www.fine-tools.com or
Mike Hancock in the UK www.classichandtools.com
We have a complete beginners' course in Book and DVD www.artisancoshop.com/eu/
We will be building on this course over the coming years.
Have fun with your woodwork!
Why not just use the curved blade plane to start with?
It seems that the "curved blade plane", a/k/a a "round " plane, needs to ride against an existing straight edge. That existing straight edge was created, in this case, by the modified marking gauge followed by the 2 wooden-bodied rebate, or "rabbet", planes that left a "V' shaped groove. It was THIS groove that the "round" plane was riding against. Had he started out withe the "round", he may have ended up with a very wiggly cove. Hope this helps.
Showpro's explanation is the main reason. There's another though. Flat bladed planes, such as a Stanley #4, are easy to sharpen and can remove a lot of material quickly. Moulding plane blades, with their various curves, can be a hassle to sharpen. So putting less wear and tear on them allows you to devote more time to planing and less time to sharpening.
вы его ногти видели?))
A router?
Addison Duggan
😏 you obviously have not met too many of these masochisticly sentimental woodworkers huh?
Of course a router works fine too, especially for repetitive work. But some of us don't care for the noise and dust of power tools. It's not as much about achieving the final result quickly. It's more about taking pleasure in the work along the way.
Nice job, however, this to me demonstrates the possibility rather than practicality of hand cutting this type of moulding. Five planes and a slot cutter?? here i will definitely break out the router and cove cutting bit.
Thanks for the comments. Yep, for this size of molding, reaching for a cove cutter and the power router is definitely the way forwards, unless you are simply enjoying yourself. I find using hand tools a whole load of fun, quiet, no dust and I guess it's a challenge. I suppose what I could have done was demonstrate the same process with a big No.18 round plane, as the only practical alternative for a really big cove (2" radius ?) would be a $5000 spindle older, plus all that expensive tooling...ha ha! All the best!
***** It was good to put a question mark after the 2" radius as I believe you said you used a two inch diameter piece of plastic to mark the arc. I agree 100% with the serenity and lack of dust in the air and fun of the challenge... and... I hope I never am required to produce this cove in quantities beyond a modest picture frame )))).
Looking forward to more.
jaxplane I've got one more in this set of five videos - reinforcing a miter with a spline or tongue (hand methods of course! ha ha!) And of course, a biscuit jointer would have it done in a jiffy, so it comes down to pure and simple fun again. I have got through boxfuls of biscuits when I was shop fitting and I enjoy using my biscuit jointer. The video should be up in a couple of days! All the best mate, Simon
***** Ill be looking forward to it )). Biscuits on a miter is a good idea. I have stopped using biscuits when making a panel from several boards as ive found no additional strength but a modest advantage of board alignment. I love splines with miters. I saw a gentlemen doing half lap miters, supremely strong but just too much investment in time, or was it that i failed to duplicate his work in a presentable manner he he.?
P.S. Do you plan to continue offering these on You Tube or plan to progress as did Paul Sellers?
Cherrio pip pip....
jaxplane Totally agree about biscuits and panels...why bother? Right now, we're shooting some DVDs to go with my new book, Working Wood 3, but I'll always be doing short films on nifty ways to do things, just for a laugh! My main interest is in producing a solid course, with high teaching standards and excellent production values. I guess we've all got to aim for something! I get a real buzz from folks suddenly understanding methods and techniques that they thought were way out of their league. I've just started a woodworking club, which is fun!
No, no, no never add stuff that’s unneeded, when you need to do that, you did something wrong in your design. Not for fun Scandinavian and Japanese design is so sort after, you don’t add anything that don’t have a function.
Keep building granny furnitures.